Get used to it: Hedi Slimane does what he wants and when he wants it. You've got to respect the artistic, image and creative director for his steely focus on a rather singular design aesthetic. The Celine Summer 2024 menswear collection, however, proves that for all the iconic things that Slimane has done, he can still craft fresh interpretations within his sphere of vision. And in this case, it's rather femme.
The standard Slimane look is still evident in the Summer of 2024. Impeccable menswear tailoring finished off with skinny ties are nods to his Dior Homme era, but this time, elevated with rhinestones that seem to give off their own luminescence.
There's a heavy focus on leather. Like trousers with a slight flare to the end as well as some of the collection's more standout moments. For example, a beautiful leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out that's inspired by 17th-century French court royalty. If that's not enough, more feminine nuances abound in the collection. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers take an exaggerated ribbon-like form that wraps around the waist. In one look, a new take on a leather biker jacket is designed with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seem to levitate away from the body.
Add embellishments that are Slimane signatures, and you have a line that's the most feminine. See it as stage-ready uniforms for some of rock and roll's greats like David Bowie and Mick Jagger.
There is reason why Loewe is one of the most anticipated shows each season. It has more to do with the out-of-the-box ideas that creative director Jonathan Anderson concocts each time rather than the celebrities that turn up for them (and trust us, there's been an increasing number of them). The fact that some of the celebrities would choose to wear the runway pieces days after they're presented is testament to the fresh and boundary-pushing silhouettes.
For Spring/Summer 2024, the key highlight of the collection comes in the form of very high-waisted trousers that reach, at least, an inch above the belly button. The result is a dramatically elongated bottom with the torso effectively cut to a 1:3 ratio. Even more dramatic are the ones drenched in rhinestones and when paired with equally bejewelled polo shirts, the look is anything but staid.
While the combination has been getting a lot of media attention due to the number of celebs that have worn variations of it, there's a lot more to the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. There are vests twisted into a giant knot, deliciously oversized outerwear, and even a top that's effectively just secured with a giant pin. Sure, you won't be seeing the latter out in the streets on a normal weekday but the idea that something as conceptual as that could still be somewhat desirable to a fashion-loving audience clamouring for new perspectives is pretty inspiring.
Anyone who appreciates knitwear knows that there are almost limitless possibilities in what can be crafted from yarns. Automatons are indeed available to spit out a piece of knitwear in as little time as possible. But the creation of intricate pieces is often done by hand and, as this season shows, results in truly stunning works of art.
Even at its simplest—as with a Gucci number in shades of blues and white—knit can have beautiful textures, adding depth to an exaggerated drop shoulder and a side-shoulder zip for unlimited styling capabilities. Bottega Veneta presents an array of knits that each display a different technique and skill. In one, the knitting is purposely twisted and warped to create a unique irregular pattern. In another, it presents itself as an abstract interpretation of the House's Intrecciato leather technique.
Alexander McQueen takes it up a few notches, at least in terms of visual appeal. While several knits employ some on-brand deconstruction, it's the crochet vests that are just stunning. Florals for Spring is groundbreaking when done through a three-dimensional crochet consisting of a collage of flora. Even in its more single-hued variation, the textures stand out in the best ways possible.
Chanel may have adopted tweed as an enduring icon of the house and in the process, feminised the material. But in actuality, tweed began in the masculine domain. Invented by Scottish farmers in the 18th century, tweed was a means of keeping warm during the harsh winters. Its characteristically rough-hewn texture is designed to be weather-resistant—locking in heat and wicking away water.
Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones reimagined tweed for its Summer 2024 collection. His penchant for merging the traditionally feminine codes of the Dior house with contemporary menswear is amped up with tweed woven into the emblematic Cannage motif. It's then used on everything from outerwear to cardigans and couture-level tailoring.
Jones did not attempt at all to masculinise the material. Instead, he employs tweed as an example of the Dior Men aesthetic that he's built where the unexpected combination of tradition and the contemporary is married with the rich history of the house.
The Summer 2024 ready-to-wear pieces aren't the only ones where tweed is used, and thankfully so. Bags—spot the complete tweed iteration that's a more luxurious take on the outdoor backpack—and shoes, like loafers and sneakers, make full use of tweed's function-meets-aesthetic traits. You wouldn't be caught dead in a full tweed look in the summer—and you shouldn't—but the individual pieces look good enough to bust out now and then for an elevated sense of style.
Anthony Vaccarello has decided that Spring/ Summer 2024 is the season for the man-cleavage. The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 menswear collection is replete with scoop-neck tops that highlight all the chest-pumping work you've been religiously focusing on at the gym. While Vaccarello's offerings may appear somewhat extreme (they're cut just inches away from a potential nip-slip) there's no denying that there's a certain level of sex appeal. Versace reckons so too with its silk tanks affording almost the same level of chest-baring proclivity.
Before you scoff at the design choice as simply something done by brands that are more fashion-forward than others, you'd be surprised to know that even Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are in on it too. The former stuck to a no-inner-under-suits look that crops up ever so often, while Emporio Armani embraced the chest with open shirting and waistcoats that are cut above the belly button.
Take this as the reverse crop top trend. Baring your chest is more forgiving than wearing a cropped top. It's much harder to achieve visible, three-dimensional abs than it is to get a decent defined chest. And the best thing is, you could get away with letting the chest breathe a little in public without drawing too much negative attention from wearing a cropped top.
There's some gender-equality debate to be had here for sure but at the end of the day, do what feels right for you. Trends come and go but style is everlasting—or something to that effect.
Read on for part one of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
When we first bore witness to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections slightly over six months ago—because, you know, fashion—it looked to be a very exciting time for menswear. It wasn't only for the unprecedented manner Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week Men's for his Louis Vuitton debut as creative director, but also for the strong proposals of what it means to be a man today.
Homogeneity takes a backseat to make way for a splicing of masculine ideals. There's more than enough room for a man to be himself, however he wants to. The diverse range seen throughout the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections echoes the embrace of men unafraid of masculine displays in atypical machismo fashion. From the updated signatures of Giorgio Armani to Loewe's experimental codes, the collections are not for the everyman but for every man.
That said, there's no reason to stick to one particular style too. The world contains multitudes—a multifaceted prism of the human race. Some days, you'd want to dress in sleek cuts peppered with soft nuances like from Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent. On other days, you'd feel like exuding a modern aristocrat courtesy of Dior Men. With choices aplenty, why settle for just one facet of your being?
It's funny to think that when we were younger, there was a strong desire to want to be older and bigger. And once we've reached the realities of adulthood, we often look back fondly at the relative carefree ease of our youth. We are not projecting but it does seem to be a constant narrative in fashion—drawing inspiration from childhood and youthful energy.
What's evident for Spring/Summer 2024 is the adoption of boyish proportions. Rejecting any sense of what the "perfect" fit is, brands like Gucci (still a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection) opt to channel this through a calculated drowning of the body with fabric. It's almost like wearing a piece from an older and much bigger figure, while others pair oversized tops with shorts and bermudas that barely graze the knees. The latter wouldn't look out of place in the skateboard scene but materialised with modern tailoring as exemplified by Valentino and Burberry. Hermès offers shorts that almost disappear under outerwear and knitwear, effectively creating its most daring menswear proposal yet.
If you intend to jump on the bandwagon, start with Zegna's more proportioned stylings consisting of oversized tops and outerwear with loose-fit bermudas. Those look more intentional than try-hard.
Pharrell Williams knows how to put on a show. The man is a multi-award-winning musician after all, with style chops to boot. Louis Vuitton, however, is a beast of its own and the pressure to deliver as creative director of its men's universe is certainly significant, to say the least. Williams' debut, while a spectacle, was also a showcase of his knowledge of image-making.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is rife with elements even the most casual follower of Williams would be familiar with. And that's because one can imagine Williams wearing almost every look, down to the pearl accessories. It's the short suits and coordinates, the tasteful use of jewellery and accessories (and at times a merging of both) as well as the sharp tailoring—everything feels very Williams.
That the collection looks like it exited Williams' personal wardrobe would've been an issue if not for the way he incorporated Louis Vuitton signatures. The Damier is reinvigorated with a camouflage treatment and in some instances, decorated with his penchant for pearls. The LV Monogram gets significant real estate throughout the collection (what "quiet luxury"?) on the reworked bags that are made with a softer and more pliable construction.
There's also a continuation of the legacy that the late Virgil Abloh set as a precedent during his time as creative director. The casting is diverse—ethnicity, body size, age and gender—and the collection feels like it could be worn by just about anyone from any part of the world. If anything, for that alone, Williams' debut is every bit the success that Louis Vuitton was banking on.
...when you have a bag that's more comfortable to the touch. Williams may have been on to something when he switched up the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy to be less of a structured bag. The reimagined Speedy P9 is made with naturally supple-grained calfskin and completely lined with lambskin leather. The effect is a buttery soft feel that responds to every touch and is comfortable enough to hug as a clutch.
The Speedy P9 isn't the only big and soft carrier of the season. Even within the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, the more traditionally constructed Speedy 50s offer a similar size-and-feel factor. At Prada, leather travel and tote bags are supersized and with such a supple composition that they're carried on the runway as though they're designed strapless.
Perhaps the most outrageous of them all is Bottega Veneta's thoroughly oversized drawstring duffel. It stands as tall as half a typical human male model. It's decadently crafted out of exotic skin and for obvious reasons, you'd probably never want to let go of this one.
This may perhaps be the new luxury fashion version of the much-maligned Crocs—you either hate it or love it. Among Burberry's offering of footwear for its Summer 2024 collection come slides that are part mules and part loafers.
Look, we get it; this is probably not for everyone but hear us out. Each pair is embellished with crystals and made of rubber, so you know that they're going to be comfortable and perfect for the tropical climate. The uppers are also perforated
with a detachable Equestrian Knight Design charm. Position it wherever you want for an offbeat look.
It actually does look great with a pair of socks in the same colour family. Although we might lose the charm for a more streamlined aesthetic. It's one of those things that you wouldn't immediately gravitate towards but give it a few wears and this is one pair you'd be glad to have in your collection. But like everything else thus far this season, you do you.
The idea of utility has always been prevalent in menswear. While its use is seen in pieces made primarily for the outdoors, a hybridisation has been happening of late, thanks in part to streetwear's influence. The treatment however, has often been rugged and hardy with a clear leaning to its roots, but for Spring/Summer 2024 we're seeing a shift.
While not exactly crafted from the most precious of materials, the season's take on utilitarian fashion is softer in make while still retaining its functional aspect. Givenchy, for example, reduced the number of pockets on its gilet to two main zipped compartments that make up almost half of the entire piece of clothing. It's also made from a lightweight nylon material for easier wear during the summer months.
Similarly, Berluti's lightweight technical-inspired blazer adopts the weather-resistant capabilities of nylon. Add to it, the nifty patch pockets finished with reinforced seams and chest zipped slots that are beautifully topped with leather pull tabs. They're key design elements that are also seen in a swathe of the collection's outerwear, including on a suede bomber.
If Givenchy's gilet isn't up to task to meet your OCD tendencies, Prada's option offers the kind of organised functionality you'd expect from a military-grade gilet. Except it's rendered in a hue that's more fashion-forward than forest-friendly. For those who prefer their utilitarian pieces in the thinnest fabric possible, Emporio Armani's translucent proposals make for stellar investments. Just keep in mind to wear something under though.
Read on for part two of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
Givenchy is currently in transition. After the departure of former artistic director Matthew M Williams, the storied luxury fashion house is still left without a creative head. Its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection presented during Paris Fashion Week Men's in January this year, was designed in-house and showcased salon-style at the House's headquarters.
Williams officially left Givenchy on 1 January 2024 after three years, with his last efforts for the House being its Pre-Autumn 2024 womenswear and menswear collections. But his final menswear runway show was for the Spring/Summer 2024 season with the collection currently available in boutiques.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection draws on the study of elegance and sartorialism with school uniforms as a starting point. It's a stylistic dialogue between traditional masculine code of dress and the classic wardrobe of a gentlemen. Williams too applied some of his own experiences growing up with fashion through his penchant for streetwear-inspired stylings evident in the collection's more utilitarian pieces.
At the gallery below, take a look at some of the backstage moments from the show, lensed by Adam Katz Sinding.
The answer: seemingly limitless. The Dior Men Charm bag is the latest of artistic director Kim Jones’ contemporary take on Dior’s storied heritage.
Familiar motifs have taken on new forms before. We saw how Jones supercharged renewed interest in the classic Saddle bag by reimagining it with a Matthew M Williams-designed buckle. Jones also introduced sneakers into the house’s design vocabulary by featuring either the Dior Oblique or in the case of the B30, a streamlined, sporty CD logo. This time, Jones has taken things up a few notches by combining two.
For a start, the Dior Charm bag features a clasp adapted from the hardware of the iconic Lady Dior in the house’s women’s universe. While the original motif consists of connected letters, D, I, O and R (of course), as mobile charms in a calculated arrangement, the Dior Charm of the men’s universe is rendered as a single plaque fashioned from the same characters, with the ‘O’ as the base. It sports an antique silver finish for a grittier look that distinguishes itself from that of the Lady Dior.
But the immediate defining characteristic of the Dior Charm bag is the Cannage motif that completely envelopes the piece. The Cannage Cosmo leather—first introduced by Jones in Summer 2023—is a slightly blown-up version of the original Cannage and translated as a whole laser-cut cage stitched onto smooth calfskin. A true testament to the skills of the Dior artisans, the topstitching is thoroughly precise and serves to enhance the encasement of the motif. In the Dior Charm’s grey and black iterations, they’re subtle and sleek; the Cannage is decidedly bold in the cognac colourway, especially against the antique silver-finish hardware.
Jones is no stranger to referencing the house’s women’s universe and transmuting these references into what would later become key motifs of Dior Men. The Dior Charm is one of those once-in-a-lifetime lightbulb moments that seem so obvious now that it’s been realised. Having it as part of a new bag like the aptly named Dior Charm bag and then combining it with an equally iconic motif like the Cannage (but once again, reworked) is genius.
The past is often revisited in luxury fashion, especially when a great deal of history and heritage are involved. But sometimes, the past whispers fresh ideas, and Jones is the reigning master of listening to them.
Artistic director Kim Jones’ continuous delving into the Dior archives has resulted in a Dior Men Summer 2024 collection that is an amalgamation of ideas of the house’s past creatives. From the tailoring silhouettes of Yves Saint Laurent to Gianfranco Ferré’s couture embroidery, the collection celebrates the archetypal masculine wardrobe and elevates them into something extravagant, yet reined with a spirited elegance.
The show that never was. Celine Homme's cancelled Summer 2024 runway show (and its planned after-party with live performances) in July 2023—in light of the protests happening in Paris at the time—turned into a short film. Shot in the same month, it was largely filmed in Paris with interspersed scenes of classical ballet dancer Laurids Seidel shot at the Opéra Garnier Monte-Carlo.
An extended version of LCD Soundsystem's "Losing My Edge" is the soundtrack to the film, bringing the mirrored set to life as models embodying the collection's amplified androgyny walked on in succession. Artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane's aesthetic lies in the rock-and-roll androgyny synonymous with the legendary figures the likes of David Bowie and Mick Jagger. For Summer 2024 however, Slimane took it up a few notches with the adoption of more feminine elements that, quite frankly, Jagger could probably still rock right now.
At heart of the Celine Homme Summer 2024 collection's inspiration was Slimane's prior photography works in the early noughties. New York's underground art scene—featuring artists such as Dash Snow, Slater Bradley, Mathew Cerlett, Dan Colen, Gardar Eide Einarsson, Terence Koh and others—became the focus of an exhibition that Slimane curated in 2007 in Berlin. He later went on to stage his own in Amsterdam as tribute to the same artists. And as somewhat of a culmination of this continued love and tribute for the scene, Slimane also worked with Snow's estate to include artworks from his archive for the collection.
The fit: The standard Slimane look was apparent in Summer 2024. Impeccable tailoring finished off with skinny ties were nods to his Dior Homme era, but then elevated with rhinestones that seemed to give off their own luminescence with every movement. Leather was a heavy focus as seen with trousers crafted with a slight flare as well as some of the collection's standout moments. The latter saw the beautiful execution of a leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out, inspired by 17th-century French court royalty.
The newness that Slimane injected into the collection (and let's face it, the man does what he wants and sometimes that equates to tried-and-tested looks) came in the form of more feminine nuances. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers took on exaggerated ribbon-like forms that wrapped around the waist, and in one look, a leather version was crafted with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seemed to levitate away from the body.
The details: As with most Slimane creations, there was a thoroughly nonchalant attitude about the collection. Sheer fabrications were dressed with rhinestones and sequins, with bare skin almost a given under leather outerwear and embellished cardigans. The same magpie-esque treatment was given to a number of heeled boots for that extra rock-and-roll flair.
Three exceptional looks: The opening look that consisted of a halter-neck top wrapped with satin a bow; look 36's disco-treated suiting; and look 47's billowy top that Harry Styles would certainly look at home in.
The takeaway: Slimane is not really a one-trick pony.
View some of the key looks from the Celine Homme Summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
It’s amusing to read the comments on Gucci’s Instagram posts of new creative director Sabato de Sarno’s debut collection. People seem to fall into two camps: on one side are those who welcome the “return to elegance” with a comment going as far as calling the previous iteration of Gucci “a bad taste freak show”, while the other compares the current collection to that of a fast fashion brand and proclaims it “boring”.
It’s expected, of course. You can’t please everyone. Out of curiosity, I tried searching for Gucci’s posts of former creative director Alessandro Michele’s first collection, but all traces of the old Gucci appear to have been scrubbed from the feed. Anyway, I’m just certain that the reactions back then were just as divided.
It’s funny because, as someone in the industry, I find that we’re quite detached from real-life consumer sentiments. Personally, I loved Michele’s maximalist Gucci. I found it creative, vibrant and presented a luxury fashion aesthetic that was different from its competitors. And evidently, it was an aesthetic that worked for a significant period until consumer fatigue set in—something that I truly didn’t experience.
But I get it. Consumer trends tend to be predictable and are linked to a number of socio-economic factors. There’s no denying that after a period of maximalist fashion, consumers are understandably tired of all the ostentatious more-is-more aesthetic, especially given that their personal economic situations may not be reflective of that aesthetic and thus, completely not relatable.
However, I wouldn’t go as far as to say that we’re living in an era of “quiet luxury”. Because the reality is (and this may sound elitist), if you’re adopting a quiet luxury aesthetic with anything other than brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli and The Row, you’re not actually doing it right, I’m sorry to say. Anything else is minimalism; quiet luxury refers to more than mere simple, elevated cuts.
Change is constant and where fashion is concerned, it’s almost destined to move on to something on the other end of the spectrum once a trend cycle reaches the end. Although it is quite an oxymoron to say that maximalist fashion started getting stale, the complete opposite is a breath of fresh air from the visual assault of logos, prints, embellishments and the like.
What we are currently experiencing can be compared to the rise of minimalist fashion circa 2009, when brands like Céline (the old, Phoebe Philo-led one), Calvin Klein and Jil Sander were constant points of references for impeccable style. They were stunningly clean, cut-focused and had little need for unnecessary flourishes, but ultimately suffered the fate of being rather easy to replicate using more affordable alternatives, without looking like a poorer version of the original. Now, attempt that with maximalist fashion and one runs the risk of looking downright tacky.
Of course, that’s not to say that there’s no space for maximalist fashion now—that would quickly erase the existence of quite a number of fashion brands across different categories. Brands whose DNA is maximalist would naturally tone down the visual language slightly or offer pieces that are more in line with current consumer tastes in order to not be alienated. But at the same time, not neglecting their individual identity.
We are already seeing the beginnings of neo-maximalism on the Spring/Summer 2024 runways.
Italian fashion house Versace is unequivocally maximalist through and through. From gilded trims to its signature Barocco print, Versace’s oeuvre consists of a brilliantly excessive decadence that it has been famous for for decades. But for its Spring/Summer 2024 runway show, artistic director Donatella Versace showcased a collection that was a refreshing surprise. Clean lines took precedence over exaggerated silhouettes, and a more curated colour palette was favoured over brash combinations of bold colours. And yet, the Versace-ness remained as prints were rendered in monochromatic treatments that seemed to merge with their pastel base, and Barocco trims (albeit toned down) were done in white so as not to draw too much focus from the cut and make of the garments.
Similarly at Dolce&Gabbana: nary a single logo was seen anywhere throughout the 76-strong Spring/Summer 2024 menswear looks. It was a gradation of colours from black to taupe and then back to black with each look completely monochromatic from head to toe. True to the brand’s DNA, embellishments were still present in a number of looks, but done with restraint. Instead of combining multiple types of embellishments together, there was a more concerted effort to focus on a single type and done in one single hue—often in the same colour family as the rest of the outfit.
Now that that is sorted out, is maximalism done for now? Well, not quite. Homogeneity isn’t aninherently human trait. Think about it, the rise and existence of subcultures such as punks, mods and grunge, were all a result of wanting to break away from the mainstream. Even with minimalism gaining traction, there will still be individuals and fashion brands that choose to stick to their individual maximalist styles.
The thing about maximalism is that it’s often thought of as being more creative and more interesting as compared to minimalism. That’s not to say that minimalism is, inevitably, boring—it takes superior technical craft and skill to create something cuttingly simple. There is just a lot more to see on the surface with maximalist fashion. It’s something that we can never truly get tired of. We may require some respite after a while but we’ll always come back to awe-inspiring expressions of creativity from the very first glance.
He's a musician, an all-round performer, and a member of K-pop group GOT7—Mark Tuan is an entertainment force in his own right. But aside from his musicianship, the man has got style in spades, especially when paired with Saint Laurent. The two have developed a close relationship over the years with Tuan becoming a fixture on the front row of the Saint Laurent runway shows.
So who better to bring us to the most recent Saint Laurent Summer 2024 womenswear show by Anthony Vaccarello than Tuan himself? Follow along his journey to the show as he recalls his fondest moment with the fashion house as well as the thought process behind his choice of outfit for the show.
What goes through your mind when you’re getting ready for an average day in your life?
I approach each day with an open mindset, ready to adapt to whatever challenges or opportunities may arise. I don't stick rigidly to a fixed routine because I believe in spontaneity. So while I do have a general plan for the day, I'm always open to adjusting it if something unexpected and exciting comes my way. This approach allows me to stay flexible, embrace change, and make the most of every moment.
Why did you decide to go with this outfit for the Summer 2024 women’s show?
I decided to go with this outfit for the Summer 2024 women's show because it was an elegant look, and I simply connected with it. The design and style of the outfit resonated with my personal taste and aesthetic preferences. Fashion is not just about wearing clothes; it's also about expressing oneself and feeling a connection with what you wear. This particular ensemble not only exuded elegance but also made me feel confident and in tune with the theme of the show. It was a choice driven by both aesthetics and a personal sense of harmony with the attire.
You’re no stranger to being on the front row of fashion shows. What do you look out for when viewing a collection?
When I'm on the front row of fashion shows, there are two key elements I particularly look out for when viewing a collection: colour palettes and silhouettes. These two aspects play a crucial role in shaping the overall aesthetic and mood of a fashion collection.
You’ve also been to a number of Saint Laurent runway shows now. Is there a particular show or moment that still sticks to this day?
The Saint Laurent runway shows have consistently delivered memorable moments, but if I were to choose one that still sticks with me to this day, it would undoubtedly be the first show I attended. What made the experience truly unforgettable was the unexpected and breathtaking setting. I didn't expect to be sitting with the Eiffel Tower as the backdrop, so when the walls came down to reveal that iconic Parisian landmark, it was absolutely stunning.
If you could choose a song from your discography to be the track for a runway show, which would it be?
As of right now, I don't feel like any of my songs are suitable for a runway show, but perhaps in the future, I'll create music that perfectly complements the runway experience. Music plays a vital role in setting the mood and enhancing the overall atmosphere of a fashion show, and I would want to ensure that the song chosen aligns seamlessly with the designer's vision and the collection's theme. While my current discography may not have the right fit, I'm open to exploring and collaborating to create music that adds a distinctive and captivating element to future runway shows.
If I had to pick a clear standout from Milan for the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear season (with a smattering of menswear in between), it would have to go to Bottega Veneta.
Creative director Matthieu Blazy has managed to create such a niche look for the Italian brand in terms of its ready-to-wear offerings—without the need for overt branding or the use of a singular colour—more than any of his predecessors have done before. The bags and accessories, of course, continue to utilise Bottega Veneta's signature Intrecciato techniques (as they should) but Blazy's emphasis on craft and techniques has offered a distinct point-of-view that has made his ready-to-wear pieces identifiable as Bottega Veneta creations.
"There is a need to reconnect to a primal world of animals, minerals, and plants. It’s like collecting seashells—beautiful, meaningful or meaningless. It’s linked to the beauty of small marvels and natural wonders. It’s embracing something freeform: these are clothes without codes," Blazy says in the collection notes.
For the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection, Blazy once again took us on a journey—one that crossed oceans and continents. Craft was the central connecting thread as culture-specific influences the world over were referenced and mashed together to create pieces that were (mostly) wearable and imbued with extreme technicalities. Yes, this meant that visually, the collection may not have appeared cohesive due to the many different techniques, colours and silhouettes that were employed throughout. The cohesiveness came through conceptually with summer- and beach-inspired ideas of craft apparent in a number of looks.
The fit: There's no singular look to the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection. It was a transition of different moments in time and space—as though Blazy meant to showcase the Bottega Veneta man as one who's worldly and of many different leanings. The show opened with a knit swimwear look that looked as though it was stripped from the '20s (and perhaps one of the few menswear looks that felt wearable for the warmer climes). Although it's difficult to decipher accurately based on images and the runway video alone, I'm fairly certain that Blazy showed a number of his brilliant leather trompe l'œil looks where seemingly everyday pieces were actually crafted from leathers, and paired with leather ties.
What's technically impressive were the knit looks this season. Blazy had shown off a number of knit looks in the past few collections but they seemed to be amped up for Summer 2024 with even more flourishes and done in greater scale. Chunky jumpers and tanks were beautiful, crafted to perfection in complicated patterns but without a homespun quality. These were intended to look high-quality and luxurious—done by hand, yes, but with the precision of skilled, experienced craftsmen.
The details: Things got bigger in the bags department. The Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 bags were supersized such that they'd make pretty decent travelling companions. A massive duffle bag in croc (look 7) was half the size of the model that carried it, while the Sardines in Intrecciato took on their biggest iteration yet with the metallic handle offering an even better grip thanks to the upsized design.
Three exceptional looks: Look 11 and its deliciously chunky knit that enveloped almost the entirety of the ensemble under it; look 53's coordinated look consisting of a shirt and trousers with faggoting and jagged hems; and look 41's updated proposal of a tank-and-trouser fit.
The takeaway: I don't know who's rich enough to purchase Bottega Veneta ready-to-wear, but you'd definitely recognise the look right off the bat.
View the full Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
Versace is typically not one to quickly hop onto trends or care much about the shifts in consumer tastes. It marches to its own beat—coming up with a new-ish monogram, La Greca, only in 2021 (well after other brands) but relatively sticking to its signature Barocco prints, Medusa logo, and sexually charged designs.
It's surprising then that for Spring/Summer 2024, Donatella Versace decided to do a 180 with a collection that's representative of a return to minimalism—or that often misused phrase, "quiet luxury"—but done the Versace way. To be fair, this wasn't the first instance of Donatella going rogue with a rather minimalist collection. This is, however, perhaps her most successful execution yet.
The fit: The show opened with luxurious duchess silks adorned with the Versace Contrasto Checkerboard—a pattern that debuted in Spring/Summer 1982—in varying sizes and later paired with utilitarian pieces the likes of a perfectly cut trench and multi-pocketed gilet. They were simply teasers of what's to come: a skilful combination of tailoring and Versace motifs rendered in pastel hues.
The checked and square motifs continued on in multiple fabrications including wool crepe tweed. In some instances, checkerboard prints were layered with signature Barocco prints as well as a Versace Rose motif but in quite muted monochromatic renderings such that they weren't fighting for attention.
The focus on cut and tailoring were evident for the Versace Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Lines were sharp and clean with nipped in waists and three-dimensional sculptural shoulder moments that elevated the level of craft and construction further. In look 69 (the most minimal menswear look of the lot) for example, an impeccably tailored jacket with flared trousers showcased the peak of Versace tailoring but at the same time exuded a timeless aesthetic. It's highly edited and pared back, yes; yet the Versace man still exudes a sexy confidence.
The details: There's no denying that there were semblances of Miu Miu and Prada stylings—it's difficult to not reference the of-the-moment combinations, especially when taking on a minimalist approach. But again, Donatella made them her own. The peeking of underwear under trousers, scoop-neck tanks and fine gauge knit cardigans (both interpreted with gorgeous macramé Barocco borders) were reworked codes of Versace sensuality.
There were hints of a feminine-masculine tension that skewed in neither direction yet showed that the Versace man wouldn't be fazed even if it did. He's that confident.
Three exceptional looks: Look 12's maroon leather suit that's a stunning showcase of leather tailoring; the pastel blue mod-tailoring in look 23 with that clever styling of unbuttoning the last few buttons to show a hint of skin and underwear; and look 73's excellent tailoring.
The takeaway: This is how you do timeless, elegant minimalism while evolving house codes without looking like the next Zara collection.
View the full Versace Spring/Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
There was no doubt that Burberry chief creative officer Daniel Lee's first showing for the British brand was a stark departure from predecessor Riccardo Tisci's.
The debut—a collection that we're finally able to experience in boutiques now—was a return to Burberry's Britishness, replete with elements and motifs ripped from Lee's lived experiences as a Brit as well as from the brand's archives. The Burberry check was rendered at a slant and blown up (a simple but effective way of modernising the brand signifier) and the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) revived as a complementary branding device.
For the Burberry Summer 2024 collection, Lee continued to reimagine the brand's heritage with an even more focused lens. Building a new visual vocabulary for a brand like Burberry is no mean feat. With the second runway collection, we're starting to see the fruits of that labour.
If the Winter 2024 collection was a foundational collection that at times may have seemed a bit chaotic—a mallard beanie and a cacophony of visuals ranging from roses to more mallards to the EKD—the Summer 2024 collection felt more intentional and evolved. Surprisingly, the latter was more subdued and less colourful than the debut. In fact, the 'knight blue' that Lee has adopted for Burberry was little to be seen on the runway.
The fit: The overall colour palette for the collection was relatively quite dark. Instead of knight blue, colours graduated from black to a dark green before branching off to richer hues.
Yet, at the same time, prints were a key focus of the collection. What appeared as though vintage scarf prints lifted from the Burberry archives were actually prints of metal hardware in the shape of a horse—part of the Knight bag introduced for Winter 2023—and chains. Similarly, a repeated motif of the clasp of the Rocking Horse bag too appeared as a print. Both prints adorned a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including a new take on the classic Burberry trench. Lee's intent was to reimagine the trench for the summer and that included making it more lightweight than ever—in look 47, the trench could be seen hung by the neck simply by a thin chain.
What I especially liked about Burberry Summer 2024 was how Lee doubled down on the brand's military past. And while that could have resulted in quite costume-y creations, the ready-to-wear looked simply at home. Epaulettes on shirting as well as outerwear extended well beyond the shoulder line, while the trench coats cut a sharp, regimental silhouette while still retaining a sense of modernity with a dropped waist and exaggerated belt.
The details: Lee may have kept the tailoring sharp but he injected off-kilter semblances in the styling as well as accessories. The collection's slip-ons for example (looks 41 and 45) were doused in rhinestones with the EKD fixed like one would a Crocs Jibbitz. Leather loafers were crafted with an extended leather buckle in the shape of the Burberry Shield bag and topped with the EKD. It's these constant details that help drive the message of the new subtle visual vocabulary of Lee's Burberry.
Three exceptional looks: The ease and simplicity of look 16's black fit embellished with cleverly printed trousers; look 23's printed coordinates that could easily be broken up into pieces that could stand on their own; and look 45's new take of dressed up casual in classic Christopher Bailey-era hues.
The takeaway: Burberry is back to being refined with doses of unexpected quirks—a truly Brit aesthetic.
View the full Burberry Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
The towering fountains by American artist Lynda Benglis weren't the only elements from the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear show that stood out on the runway. The moment the first model walked out—decked out in a completely crystallised look—it was certain that we were about to witness a show.
Although, if one was expecting nonplussed theatrics, it wasn't exactly that kind of a show. Sure, there were highly conceptual pieces peppered in between the 51-look collection—a number of tops fashioned as blown-up swatches of jacquard fabrics each complete with a dress pin, for example—but creative director Jonathan Anderson's work has been revolving around subtle theatrics of late.
As with the past couple of seasons, the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear collection was a focus on materiality set against familiar wardrobe staples. It was particularly a study of challenging perceptions; that the ordinary could be extraordinary by just a slight tweak. Crystal-embellished pieces were a common sight on denim and a slew of accessories from sunglasses to round-toe footwear. They dressed up what would've been classic striped shirts, jumpers, polos, and blazers.
Footwear merged ready-to-wear in a number of looks, blurring the lines between accessory and clothing. On the collection's leather jumpsuits—crafted in quite minimal fashion—hems quite seamlessly joined crepe soles.
The fit: Proportions were skewed in almost every look. Trousers were made to sit incredibly high on the waist—at least slightly above the belly button. The intent was to elongate legs, while at the same time, compressing the torso with tops intentionally tucked in, and in some cases, cropped to accommodate the distorted silhouette.
There was a sense of simplicity being not exactly that simple. Asymmetric cuts on knitwear drove the point of subtle-tweaking to achieve new forms, while still keeping to a relatively easy-to-wear colour palette.
The details: Anderson introduced the Loewe Pebble bucket bag. The name refers to the pebble-shaped Anagram-engraved hardware that acts as the bag strap's length adjuster. Available in suede and leather, the strap allows it to be both carried as a tote as well as comfortably draped across the body.
The collection's series of sunglasses echoed the glittery treatments that were key throughout. But unlike the ready-to-wear and a selection of bags and shoes, these were speckled with crystals instead of being completely drenched in them—perfect for anyone looking to make a relatively quieter statement.
Three exceptional looks: Look 10 may be a bit out there (and may not even be reproduced commercially) but captured multiple elements of the collection perfectly; look 16's glittery shirt and denim combination was easily the best of the lot; and look 47 that displayed Loewe's leather mastery.
The takeaway: It's always about proportions, even when you don't have the body of a model.
View the full Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
