Get used to it: Hedi Slimane does what he wants and when he wants it. You've got to respect the artistic, image and creative director for his steely focus on a rather singular design aesthetic. The Celine Summer 2024 menswear collection, however, proves that for all the iconic things that Slimane has done, he can still craft fresh interpretations within his sphere of vision. And in this case, it's rather femme.
The standard Slimane look is still evident in the Summer of 2024. Impeccable menswear tailoring finished off with skinny ties are nods to his Dior Homme era, but this time, elevated with rhinestones that seem to give off their own luminescence.
There's a heavy focus on leather. Like trousers with a slight flare to the end as well as some of the collection's more standout moments. For example, a beautiful leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out that's inspired by 17th-century French court royalty. If that's not enough, more feminine nuances abound in the collection. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers take an exaggerated ribbon-like form that wraps around the waist. In one look, a new take on a leather biker jacket is designed with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seem to levitate away from the body.
Add embellishments that are Slimane signatures, and you have a line that's the most feminine. See it as stage-ready uniforms for some of rock and roll's greats like David Bowie and Mick Jagger.
There is reason why Loewe is one of the most anticipated shows each season. It has more to do with the out-of-the-box ideas that creative director Jonathan Anderson concocts each time rather than the celebrities that turn up for them (and trust us, there's been an increasing number of them). The fact that some of the celebrities would choose to wear the runway pieces days after they're presented is testament to the fresh and boundary-pushing silhouettes.
For Spring/Summer 2024, the key highlight of the collection comes in the form of very high-waisted trousers that reach, at least, an inch above the belly button. The result is a dramatically elongated bottom with the torso effectively cut to a 1:3 ratio. Even more dramatic are the ones drenched in rhinestones and when paired with equally bejewelled polo shirts, the look is anything but staid.
While the combination has been getting a lot of media attention due to the number of celebs that have worn variations of it, there's a lot more to the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. There are vests twisted into a giant knot, deliciously oversized outerwear, and even a top that's effectively just secured with a giant pin. Sure, you won't be seeing the latter out in the streets on a normal weekday but the idea that something as conceptual as that could still be somewhat desirable to a fashion-loving audience clamouring for new perspectives is pretty inspiring.
Anyone who appreciates knitwear knows that there are almost limitless possibilities in what can be crafted from yarns. Automatons are indeed available to spit out a piece of knitwear in as little time as possible. But the creation of intricate pieces is often done by hand and, as this season shows, results in truly stunning works of art.
Even at its simplest—as with a Gucci number in shades of blues and white—knit can have beautiful textures, adding depth to an exaggerated drop shoulder and a side-shoulder zip for unlimited styling capabilities. Bottega Veneta presents an array of knits that each display a different technique and skill. In one, the knitting is purposely twisted and warped to create a unique irregular pattern. In another, it presents itself as an abstract interpretation of the House's Intrecciato leather technique.
Alexander McQueen takes it up a few notches, at least in terms of visual appeal. While several knits employ some on-brand deconstruction, it's the crochet vests that are just stunning. Florals for Spring is groundbreaking when done through a three-dimensional crochet consisting of a collage of flora. Even in its more single-hued variation, the textures stand out in the best ways possible.
Chanel may have adopted tweed as an enduring icon of the house and in the process, feminised the material. But in actuality, tweed began in the masculine domain. Invented by Scottish farmers in the 18th century, tweed was a means of keeping warm during the harsh winters. Its characteristically rough-hewn texture is designed to be weather-resistant—locking in heat and wicking away water.
Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones reimagined tweed for its Summer 2024 collection. His penchant for merging the traditionally feminine codes of the Dior house with contemporary menswear is amped up with tweed woven into the emblematic Cannage motif. It's then used on everything from outerwear to cardigans and couture-level tailoring.
Jones did not attempt at all to masculinise the material. Instead, he employs tweed as an example of the Dior Men aesthetic that he's built where the unexpected combination of tradition and the contemporary is married with the rich history of the house.
The Summer 2024 ready-to-wear pieces aren't the only ones where tweed is used, and thankfully so. Bags—spot the complete tweed iteration that's a more luxurious take on the outdoor backpack—and shoes, like loafers and sneakers, make full use of tweed's function-meets-aesthetic traits. You wouldn't be caught dead in a full tweed look in the summer—and you shouldn't—but the individual pieces look good enough to bust out now and then for an elevated sense of style.
Anthony Vaccarello has decided that Spring/ Summer 2024 is the season for the man-cleavage. The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 menswear collection is replete with scoop-neck tops that highlight all the chest-pumping work you've been religiously focusing on at the gym. While Vaccarello's offerings may appear somewhat extreme (they're cut just inches away from a potential nip-slip) there's no denying that there's a certain level of sex appeal. Versace reckons so too with its silk tanks affording almost the same level of chest-baring proclivity.
Before you scoff at the design choice as simply something done by brands that are more fashion-forward than others, you'd be surprised to know that even Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are in on it too. The former stuck to a no-inner-under-suits look that crops up ever so often, while Emporio Armani embraced the chest with open shirting and waistcoats that are cut above the belly button.
Take this as the reverse crop top trend. Baring your chest is more forgiving than wearing a cropped top. It's much harder to achieve visible, three-dimensional abs than it is to get a decent defined chest. And the best thing is, you could get away with letting the chest breathe a little in public without drawing too much negative attention from wearing a cropped top.
There's some gender-equality debate to be had here for sure but at the end of the day, do what feels right for you. Trends come and go but style is everlasting—or something to that effect.
Read on for part one of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
