Esquire Examines: Loewe SS24

Challenging perceptions and proportions, creative director Jonathan Anderson showcased a collection of incredibly high-waisted trousers, glitter, and other surprises
Published: 26 June 2023
Photo by Loewe

The towering fountains by American artist Lynda Benglis weren't the only elements from the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear show that stood out on the runway. The moment the first model walked out—decked out in a completely crystallised look—it was certain that we were about to witness a show.

Although, if one was expecting nonplussed theatrics, it wasn't exactly that kind of a show. Sure, there were highly conceptual pieces peppered in between the 51-look collection—a number of tops fashioned as blown-up swatches of jacquard fabrics each complete with a dress pin, for example—but creative director Jonathan Anderson's work has been revolving around subtle theatrics of late.

As with the past couple of seasons, the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear collection was a focus on materiality set against familiar wardrobe staples. It was particularly a study of challenging perceptions; that the ordinary could be extraordinary by just a slight tweak. Crystal-embellished pieces were a common sight on denim and a slew of accessories from sunglasses to round-toe footwear. They dressed up what would've been classic striped shirts, jumpers, polos, and blazers.

Photo by Loewe

Footwear merged ready-to-wear in a number of looks, blurring the lines between accessory and clothing. On the collection's leather jumpsuits—crafted in quite minimal fashion—hems quite seamlessly joined crepe soles.

The fit: Proportions were skewed in almost every look. Trousers were made to sit incredibly high on the waist—at least slightly above the belly button. The intent was to elongate legs, while at the same time, compressing the torso with tops intentionally tucked in, and in some cases, cropped to accommodate the distorted silhouette.

There was a sense of simplicity being not exactly that simple. Asymmetric cuts on knitwear drove the point of subtle-tweaking to achieve new forms, while still keeping to a relatively easy-to-wear colour palette.

Photo by Loewe
Photo by Loewe

The details: Anderson introduced the Loewe Pebble bucket bag. The name refers to the pebble-shaped Anagram-engraved hardware that acts as the bag strap's length adjuster. Available in suede and leather, the strap allows it to be both carried as a tote as well as comfortably draped across the body.

The collection's series of sunglasses echoed the glittery treatments that were key throughout. But unlike the ready-to-wear and a selection of bags and shoes, these were speckled with crystals instead of being completely drenched in them—perfect for anyone looking to make a relatively quieter statement.

Three exceptional looks: Look 10 may be a bit out there (and may not even be reproduced commercially) but captured multiple elements of the collection perfectly; look 16's glittery shirt and denim combination was easily the best of the lot; and look 47 that displayed Loewe's leather mastery.

The takeaway: It's always about proportions, even when you don't have the body of a model.

View the full Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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