The menswear evolution at Saint Laurent under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello has been a gradual one. The beginning of his tenure saw Vaccarello sticking to predecessor Hedi Slimane's penchant for rock-and-roll skinnies, while at the same time adding his own inflections of chic. Since then—he's recently passed the seventh-year mark—Vaccarello has increasingly referenced Saint Laurent's archives, especially the work of its founder.
The Saint Laurent summer 2024 runway show was held in Berlin, Germany. While it may be more famously known for its vibrant rave and party culture, the city's art and design scenes too require little introduction. The glass-and-steel Neue Nationalgalerie—a modern art museum designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe—provided the perfect setting for the summer 2024 collection that further emphasised on Vaccarello's stamp for Saint Laurent: modern, elegant, and indisputably chic.
The fit: Just like the brand's previous presentation (the winter 2023 womenswear runway show), the focus for the summer 2024 menswear collection was the shoulder. Strong and structured, the general look consisted of an oversized blazer paired with high-waisted flute trousers, achieving a top-heavy silhouette that tapered down. The opening looks were classic pairings of tuxedos interpreted in the collection's silhouette but as the show progressed, button-downs were substituted in favour of neck-plunging tank tops crafted from silk.
When shoulders weren't accentuated and exaggerated by deftly tailored blazers and shirting, they were left bare. The aforementioned tank tops were joined by sheer blouses decorated with polka dots and extended scarf collars, halter-neck tops, toga blouses, and off-shoulder tops that all featured some manner of elegant draping.
The overall sense of flou was evident in the silk fabrications, but also in the continuation of winter 2023 menswear's use of oversized pussy bows tied around the neck.
The details: It does seem that when Vaccarello does a fashion show, the focus is almost strictly on the clothes and not much else. The Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection was no different—there were no bags to speak of. The accessory du jour however, were aviator sunglasses. And true to form, the devil was in the details. What may have seemed like regular aviators, were given a modern twist with temples connected to the bottom of lenses instead of the top.
If you're looking for an update to wearing a shirt, refer to look 23's styling tip of treating one like how you would a bathrobe—simply disregard the buttons, wrap the shirt around the waist and tuck it into trousers. It's not a new hack by any means but a nifty one to experiment with oversized shirts.
Three exceptional looks: Look 5 is quintessential to the Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection that's further elevated with the hint of a red pocket square; look 29 for a dramatic elegance befitting any occasion; and look 37 that's proof of the timeless simplicity of an all-black fit.
The takeaway: If this summer season is all about baring abs with cropped tops, summer 2024 may perhaps be the time to work on the pecs and guns.
View the full Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
