It was very fair to assume that Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello would thread along the lines of the aesthetic that he's refined for the House for a couple of years now. Sleek, almost '80s-inspired classic elegance has permeated the collections of late—a more confident and singular take of Saint Laurent's heritage than when he first took over as creative director. And it did seem as though Vaccarello was about to present a Winter 2025 menswear collection that was just that; the dramatic, couture-like staging of the Bourse de Commerce certainly alluded to it.
But it was clear from the very first look that Vaccarello had no intention of being predictable, and dare we say, bland.
The fit: Aside from the impeccable tailoring that Yves Saint Laurent is known for, the late founder is had a habit of creating a sort of tension in his creations. There was always a twist to the mundane that was either felt or seen. It's this juxtaposition that became Vaccarello's starting point for the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection.
The now-signature Saint Laurent tailoring—strong shoulders, roomy and languid—was paired with knee-high leather boots that sat somewhere between horse-riding boots and leather-kink. From where I was seated, the boots were kept rather minimal, with simple construction lines creating a promising roomy (and comfortable) fit and a buckle to keep things secure right at the top.
There's no question that it's a jarring proposal, but that's the point. In the collection's more British-leaning looks with Prince of Wales checks, however, they're less peculiar—take it as a gentleman who rides a horse to the office or just someone who'd rather not get his trousers muddied and wet. And when the boots were worn over leather trousers in some looks, there's a seamlessness that's quite beautiful to look at.
The details: Vaccarello is a master at creating contrasts with the slightest tweak. For this collection, it was the upturned cuffs that became a styling leitmotif throughout almost every look. It's typically a style that I'm not exactly fond of, but in this instance, it worked to balance out the juxtaposition with the boots and gave the tailoring a tad bit of a rakish, casual air.
Three exceptional looks: The black double-breasted suiting in look 3 paired with the collection's knee-high boots that further emphasises on the strong shoulders; look 17's poppy combination that's just effortlessly cool; and the aristocratic flair of the closing look perfect for a winning red carpet fit.
The takeaway: When it comes to style, keeping everyone on their toes to expect the unexpected does it sometimes; a little bit of juxtaposition always keeps things interesting.
View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Hermès is always being talked about, especially of late. That's not a bad thing of course; as they say, any publicity is good publicity. Perhaps, that's why the Maison saw the need to increase the capacity of its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show at 9 Place d'Iena. A PR rep told me that the seating configuration was different this time around so that they could accommodate more people—a good sign that there's increasing interest in Hermès.
It did seem as though artistic director Véronique Nichanian felt the need to widen the appeal of her menswear creations for the Maison. The Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was perhaps one of the safest collections by Nichanian in the last few years. But don't get me wrong, it's not bad. It's just that we're used to seeing Nichanian be more experimental with her menswear vision that a pared back, almost classic collection was a stark contrast to her previous work.
Having said that, there was still plenty to discover. It's not a collection that one would immediately strike as distinct or in industry speak, "editorial". No; this was a collection you'd have to touch, feel and understand a bit more intimately in order to appreciate the craft and thought behind it.
The fit: Sticking to her penchant for oversized outerwear and tops, Nichanian slightly extended the lengths of jackets, rebelling from the current fervour for cropped everything. More traditional tailoring was also brought back, cut slim and worn with equally slim ties, while an array of outerwear took on familiar forms but rendered in leather and technical fabrications. A particular treatment employed on a number of coats and jackets appeared like textured patent leather on the runway, but was actually coated fabric.
The colour palette was classic Hermès with a heavy usage of earth tones for the season. The more colourful pieces in the collection were knitwear with motifs inspired by the uniforms of jockeys. But at the same time, the colours used were complementary and served to break away from the monotony.
The details: Instantly, my eyes were drawn to the clever styling of a scarf turned into a double-tour necklace. This was done quite simply by sliding the scarf into a number of Hermès rings (you could pretty much do this on your own with any just about any ring) and then securing it with a knot. Quite a neat style hack, in my opinion.
As an example of the Maison's savoir-faire beyond fashion, a number of outerwear incorporated blankets as part of their design. These blanket liners could be removed when needed but attaching them functioned to add much needed warmth. They're also finished with blanket stitching for a beautiful contrast.
On the bags front, the Haut à courroies got an update with a detachable addition that slides onto the bag's front hardware for added external pockets. And aligning with the Hermès theme of the year—Drawn to craft—a number of iterations featured a completely hardware-free version replaced with a clever connect-the-dots motif.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3 that'll be the perfect outfit for next winter; the blanket-stitching savoir-faire in look 17; and the cool elegance and simplicity of look 44.
The takeaway: While social media debates over the Birkin versus the Wirkin, Hermès proves that its signature style and elegance can't be replicated for cheap.
View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
After the Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show, artistic director Kim Jones received the Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur—France's highest civilian honour. It's a rarity for someone outside of France to receive the honour, but given Jones' six-year tenure modernising and recontextualising house codes and archives, it does seem fitting. Anna Wintour presented the award to Jones, while wearing a piece from the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection.
Wintour was also present front row at the show. I was seated at the other side of the sprawling runway show space, across from her. There was nothing particularly special about her presence at the show; Wintour isn't a stranger to the Dior Men runway shows. But with the persistent rumours of creative directorship changes, one does wonder if it all points to some sliver of truth to them.
It didn't help to that there was a sort of sombre element to the show's musical choice. "Time Lapse" by Michael Nyman provided some energy to the elegance of the collection but also underscored a sense of melancholy.
But all that to say, the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection was easily one of Jones' best, especially in the past couple of years. Jones took it back to Monsieur Dior after seasons of referencing the works of past Dior creative directors, drawing focus on the graphic and angular Ligne H collection.
The fit: While the collection referenced Monsieur Dior's Ligne H collection, Jones took the opportunity to expand the idea to include other signatures by Monsieur Dior. The opera coat from the Pondichéry collection of 1948, for example, was reimagined in two different versions—one in pure black, and another embellished pink iteration that closed the show. Jones slipped through time periods recontextualising and merging them with more modern silhouettes, all while envisioning a gender-fluid casanova—taking the idea of a "ladies' man" quite literally.
Right from the first look, a play of volumes was apparent. From cinched waists of a number of the opera coats to more voluminous structured creations that were left as is, there was a brilliant display of fabric manipulation and couture-level constructions.
Save for the couture embroidery techniques employed, there was hardly any other Dior motif present. There was no Oblique, no Cannage or anything that resembled any form of signature or branding. The only such element was a Christian Dior Paris label that were placed front and centre on a number of pieces. This collection was all about the cut, silhouette and make of each piece. Sublime.
The details: One of the standout design details was the folded, draped collars that were seen on both precious fabrics as well as leather. Without constructing a "proper" collar or lapel, collars were formed just from manipulating the material and skilfully draping it to create a seamless appearance of a collar. It was incredibly breathtaking to witness up close at the re-see the next day.
The couture bow was used as a clever leitmotif throughout the collection. On some ready-to-wear pieces, they were removable accents on the back of blazers as well as sleeve covers on jackets. There were, of course, the Dior-branded bows that were worn as masks. The bows were also translated as satin bow caps on the collection's footwear, and will sure to be the most sought-after piece in the entire collection.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9's pink bow-sleeved jacket that I'm calling "couture coquette"; the delicious and supple leather top in look 20; and the drama of the skirt-trouser combo with the offbeat pairing of an embroidered striped shirt in look 46.
The takeaway: Jones's appointment to Dior Men may have been partly due to his affinity for and ability to interweave streetwear into luxury fashion, but the truth it, he's a fashion engineer capable to making a brand relevant.
View the full Dior Men Winter 2025 collection in the gallery below.
In a way, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway show was somewhat of a déjà vu. Nigo—founder of A Bathing Ape, and artistic director of Kenzo—has collaborated with Louis Vuitton before during the late Virgil Abloh's time with the Maison in 2020. It was so successful that it spawned another drop the year after.
This new iteration of a Nigo collaboration with Louis Vuitton felt a bit different.
As a whole, it was more of a dialogue between two friends and creatives. While Nigo's first collaboration with Louis Vuitton felt like he was given free rein to do whatever that he wanted, the Autumn/Winter 2025 version saw a more deliberate approach for a creative volley. There's a distinct Pharrell Williams-look to the entire collection—marked by relaxed suiting, workwear-tailoring pairings, and embellishments—that were then peppered with Nigo-isms the likes of Japanese-inspired treatments and fabrications with a whole load of denim.
What's interesting to note was the more restraint use of loud logos. Sure, there were still plenty of Damier motifs going around in a number of permutations—Williams is big on making the Damier his era-defining signature—everything else was kept more pared back; the collection is easily Williams' most wearable one yet.
Another Williams trope is the show's soundtrack that he produces each time (how does he find the time to do all that, I want to know). This time around, a couple of K-pop's finest each had a hand in hyping up the atmosphere of the runway show. BTS' j-hope—who was, expectedly, mobbed by just about every editor in attendance—contributed to "LV Bag" together with Don Toliver, while SEVENTEEN's "Bad Influence" seemed to be a crowd favourite.
The show ended with Williams and Nigo making their way around the circular show space. And as they passed grey lightboxes (there were a total of 24 of them) positioned at intervals on the runway, each lit up to reveal its contents. The lightboxes contained archive collections belonging to the Maison, personal collections of Nigo and Williams, as well as those by personal collectors. The pieces are now open for bidding on Williams' digital-only auction platform Joopiter.
The fit: Unlike previous collections by Williams, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was conceptualised around more familiar menswear staples. There was little deviation from the tried-and-tested, with less gimmicks and a more concerted effort to focus on craft and tailoring. This in turn provided the perfect canvas for the Japanese craft techniques and motifs employed to shine through even more. Shippo-weaving was incorporated into the Maison's flower emblem to create a encircled diamond stitched pattern, while kasuri-weaving was used in tailoring jacquard and silk-wool outerwear.
There's a stylistic flair in the way that tailored pieces are paired with workwear-inspired separates. Old-school dandy codes are mixed in with a sense of functionality that's not only pleasing to the eye, but also sensible in today's context.
The details: I did say that the collection is a bit more pared back in terms of logos, but that doesn't mean that both Nigo and Williams skimped on the details. For one, the embellished denim in look 38 was beautifully executed as an interpretation of the Maison's flower emblem. There was also a nod to the iconic 2021 collaboration with Stephen Sprouse but instead of the just splashing "Louis Vuitton" in highlighter hues, this new interpretation was done in black and white and incorporated words such as "LVERS", "TOKYO" and more in both French and Japanese.
The wave-like effect that Nigo first conceptualised for the 2020 collaboration with Louis Vuitton made a return, but this time, skewed vertically and consisting of a patchwork of the Maison's motifs. And for those crazed over the bag charm trend, there plenty on the runway, including a leather charm shaped like a lobster claw.
To commemorate the collection's collaborative nature, a number of pieces across ready-to-wear and accessories feature the graphic renderings of both Nigo's and William's heads—perfect for anyone who's a stalwart fan of both figures.
Three exceptional looks: Look 18's mishmash of Louis Vuitton motifs that somehow looked very well put together; the aforementioned look 38; and look 66's broken embroidery look that's stunning upclose.
The takeaway: A collaboration is only as good as the dialogue that went into it; this was good.
View the full Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
There have been plenty of articles attempting to critically analyse Burberry's current strategy—both creatively as well as from a marketing standpoint. It has become a continuously profound struggle for Burberry, a heritage brand that has been experiencing a sort of fall from financial grace for years now, to find that balance between being fashion-forward and desirable.
The Burberry Summer 2025 runway show proved that chief creative officer Daniel Lee has perhaps found that balance after almost two years of steering the brand back to its British roots. Noticeably, there were a few design elements that Lee initiated in his first few collections that he's now seemed to forgo this time around. The Burberry Check is back in its original rendering after seasons of being skewed at an attempt to modernise the motif, while the revived Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) wasn't as prominent.
Lee likens the collection as a continuation of Winter 2024. "An easy elegance that feels inviting for summer. We want the pieces to feel welcoming, and for the wearers to feel confident," he says. Cue the much softer approach in terms of fabrications, treatments as well as colour palette—as though to say that these pieces are indeed wearable and easy enough buy into.
The fit: A lot of the Burberry Summer 2025 collection's focus is on the military aspects of the brand's heritage. It's evident from the overall swathe of pastel, washed out and weathered colourways that Lee's intention was to highlight Burberry's more utilitarian functionality. The collection's outerwear pieces remained key grounding elements and inherently made the collection Burberry. This time, trench coats were reconstructed into asymmetric jackets, a couple of slightly cropped iterations as well as multi-pocket field jacket versions. They were all season-appropriate—crafted in lightweight silk, linen or bonded wool.
The zipped elements from Winter 2024 made a return on the runway. They were featured on a number of zipped trousers styled open at the knees to further accentuate the roominess of the cut. Where pockets weren't adorned with weatherproof flaps, zipped details reinforced utilitarian elements as well as versatile styling proposals.
Overall, the collection excelled at reimagining Burberry house codes without needing to shout with bold graphics or an overuse of branded signatures and motifs. Silhouettes felt easy to wear with chic simplicity apparent throughout the collection. In some cases, perhaps, they were too simple in execution, especially when broken into individual pieces. Together though, the styling felt the most Burberry that Lee has crafted thus far.
The details: A complete overhaul of the bag offerings seemed to be intentional. The collection saw introductions of completely new styles all designed to be unlined and relaxed. The Country comes as a crossbody, bucket bag and tote in grainy leather with the Burberry Check, while the B Clip—named after its b-shaped front fastening—is a new messenger bag, tote and holdall in tumbled leather and suede with the addition of a rather stunning Burberry Check style in patchwork leather.
Three exceptional looks: The super chic opening look styled almost like a regal, royal officer; look 32's classic Burberry Check rendered in a deep hue for a truly utilitarian ensemble; and the timeless silhouette of look 47.
The takeaway: Lee has found a balance between his own leanings and Burberry's Britishness—how open customers will be to adapting remains the brand's challenge.
View the full Burberry Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.
Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a statement, a rallying cry wrapped in Damier checks and cosmic prints. Set against the symbolic backdrop of the UNESCO headquarters in Paris, the collection is titled “Le Monde est à Vous” (The World is Yours) and was a high-concept blend of sartorial exploration and cultural commentary. If Williams' previous shows for the Maison tapped into specific countries and cities as points of references, this time, it was a call for global unity and shared responsibility.
Before the models hit the runway, the audience was treated to a short film created in collaboration with Air Afrique, a Pan-African cultural collective. The film featured young “child diplomats” tackling global issues. It was equal parts moving and ambitious, underscoring Louis Vuitton’s evolution into a cultural powerhouse rather than just a luxury label.
At the venue itself, the lower levels of the UNESCO headquarters were transformed into orchestral pits housing both the Voices of Fire choir and L’Orchestre du Pont Neuf. They provided the live soundtrack to the show with upbeat vocal stylings and instrumentation to three original compositions produced by none other than the creative director himself.
The fit: The Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was effectively a love letter to humanity. It kicked off with a muted palette—blacks, browns, and beiges—that hinted at the grounding of shared human experience, before blooming into greens and blues, straight out of a satellite image of Earth. These tones weren’t just aesthetic choices; they underscored the idea of diversity and universal inclusion. Think tailored double-breasted suits, relaxed pajama-inspired sets, and collarless leather jackets paired with Louis Vuitton’s trademark boldness. Pieces like a glossy red PVC anorak and slouchy cargo shorts delivered runway drama without alienating the everyday dresser.
And then there was the printwork. Pharrell introduced a fresh take on the Damier motif with “Damoflage”—a hybrid of camouflage and cartographic designs. Globe-inspired prints appeared on bombers and foulards, turning fashion into a celebration of connectedness.
The details: Soccer ball-shaped bags and tartan luggage nodded to the universal language of travel and sport, while cheeky details like “YOUR NAME” printed on customisable bags added a playful edge. The Air Afrique collaboration continued on in a number of ready-to-wear pieces, scarves, stoles and bags as Damier-infused tartan as well as a co-creation of travel-inspired logos. And much like Williams' interpretation of the iconic Keepall, the collection introduced a Soft Leather Goods line—the Alma, the Christopher and the Neverfull were crafted in super supple leather with aged VVN trimmings and decorated with brown Monogram.
Three exceptional looks: Look 8's chic proposal of a translucent mock-neck paired with jewelled trims; look 39's classic Louis Vuitton aesthetic twisted with softer nuances; and look 72's football-inspired ensemble that has never made football more appealing to any non-fan.
The takeaway: A collection for the jet-set, the dreamers, and everyone in between.
View the full Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
It was a strong start to Milan Fashion Week Men's. Moschino's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show—the first men's show by creative director Adrian Appiolaza—made little effort to hide what the collection was all about. The show set was decorated with towers of a cacophony of luggage and suitcases, and the show invite was essentially an electronic boarding pass.
The obvious kitsch could have come up as rather generic, or worse, predictable. But this is Moschino we're talking about. It was great seeing Appiolaza staying true to the spirit of the brand.
It's clear from the very first look—an Inspector Gadget-esque coordination paired with a heart-shaped briefcase—that Appiolaza intends on keeping Moschino, well, Moschino. Look after look, there was a sense of oddity that was captured in the form of an exaggerated accessory or a truly unfathomable styling of an office worker blue shirt with a sarong. The idea of the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was one of individual expression and exploration, with each look barely having any resemblance to any other in the line-up.
The collection's theme afforded Appiolaza to take reference from cultures around the world. The soundtrack was engineered to echo these adaptations—as an instrumental percussion-heavy song played towards the end, floral garlands (reminiscent of Indian floral garlands or leis) dressed models in a number of ways.
One accessory that definitely was not difficult to miss and probably spoke the loudest was a watermelon clutch. The press notes say nothing of the intent of the specific accessory. It may be a nod to Moschino's watermelon prints and appliqués that the brand has done in the past, revisited and reworked. But given the context of the collection as well as what's happening in the world right now, it's not too farfetched to say that Appiolaza made quite a statement.
The fit: There was hardly anything serious about the collection, other than the fact that the concepts were strong while still remaining wearable in the real world. Deconstruction and reconstruction made way for interesting silhouettes, including a polo tee riddled with multiple collars on the back and front, a white shirt affixed with multiple long sleeves at its hem, and a pinstriped coat paired with a printed white shirt with both looking as though they went through a paper shredder.
The details: The Moschino Love heart ran rampant throughout the collection. Like the aforementioned briefcase, a smaller heart-shaped bag made of wicker came decorated with floral tendrils. It also wouldn't be Moschino without prints and they ran the gamut from artistic still lifes to trompe-l'œil renderings of office-appropriate accessories on blue shirts.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3's functionality pushed to the extreme; the button-riddled suiting of look 12; and the trompe-lœil casualness of look 54.
The takeaway: Fashion hasn't lost its ability to seduce, inspire, not take itself too seriously, while at the same time, express what matters most.
View the full Moschino Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
"The care of style is the care of instinct," reads the introduction of Brunello Cucinelli's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection. The brand stuck close to its Italian craftsmanship and understated style, but adopts a fresher silhouette that speaks to evolving tastes in menswear—because it's only instinctive to continue to change albeit progressively.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is defined by light, breathable fabrics, with a palette grounded in earthy neutrals—warm beige, soft greys, and washed whites—interrupted by summer brights the likes of blues and cherry blossoms.
The fit: Cucinelli’s approach to tailoring this season, while still grounded in the brand’s signature elegance, has brought about slightly loosened silhouettes with soft-shouldered blazers and more relaxed trousers that lend a carefree, easygoing feel. This relaxed approach is in tune with a wider trend toward comfort in menswear, but Cucinelli executed it in a way that felt inherently polished.
While, yes, there's an inherent evolution of the brand's style, that's not to say that Brunello Cucineli has gone rogue. The collection still referenced signature '70s and '80s design details and silhouettes, recontextualising them for the now. There's something to be said about timeless style and elegance and while they may come across as referential or seemingly backward, there's hardly anything wrong with something as classic as a camp collar peeking over a linen blazer.
The details: What looked exceptionally chic (but once again, nothing specifically new) was Brunello Cucinelli's layering of T-shirts and knitwear with blazers. At the presentation in Milan, a number of vintage-looking souvenir T-shirts depicting key tourist attractions around the world added touches of modern flair to its exceptional tailoring. The collection's lookbook further emphasises on knitwear as one of the stars of the collection with thick-ribbed, crew-neck sweaters for more casual finesse.
The takeaway: A fresh yet familiar approach that’s as suited to the evolving landscape of men’s fashion as it is rooted in tradition.
View the full Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The staging of the Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show was as minimal as one would expect of the brand. Tropical foliage were projected on the walls—abstract in the form of shadows but distinct enough that one would understand the collection's theme and seasonality. And much like the staging, the collection was Mr Armani's own way of conceptualising a summer-themed collection without actually sending down a collection teeming with all manner of flora and fauna.
The fit: It's easy to imagine Mr Armani heading on a safari adventure because the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection alludes to the lifestyle, especially in its opening looks. In true Armani form, there's hardly any deviation from the signature Giorgio Armani look—a neutral palette of relaxed silhouettes and a deftly handled balance of formal and sporty. But even in the expected shades of blues, greys, and creams, the materiality stood out. Silky fabrications enhanced the sense of lightness that came through, punctuated by light layers and an unrestricted sense of styling.
The details: Lapel-less blazers make a return on a number of looks—as full suited coordinates as well as broken suits—while a decidedly monochromatic styling was topped with silk scarves and hats. Prints reflected the projections on the walls, decorating silky pieces with coconut trees and palm leaves in contrasting colours that are still part of the Giorgio Armani colour palette.
Three exceptional looks: Look 7's simple ensemble in a metallic sheen; the breezy air of look 54 even with a slightly heavy top; and look 71's statement branding (hardly a Giorgio Armani element) that's refreshing.
The takeaway: There's always a way of creating newness while staying true to one's aesthetic.
View the full Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
In his Tod’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear debut, creative director Matteo Tamburini reminded us that true sophistication lies in craftsmanship, not theatrics. The collection celebrated Tod’s roots in Italian luxury while embracing a sleek, modern edge. Forget ostentation—Tamburini’s vision was grounded, restrained, and brimming with quiet confidence.
The fit: There’s a remarkable balance at play here. Earth tones set the mood, while luxe fabrics steal the show. Tamburini’s light-as-air nappa field jackets and deconstructed suits don’t shout; they nod coolly, capturing an effortless allure. Pashmy suede, as soft as cashmere, took the form of jackets such as the Bomber, the Gio Jacket and the Shirt Jacket, fusing plush elegance with everyday utility. The collection was a seamless blend of luxury and utility that only Tod’s, with its artisanal heritage, could master.
The details: The iconic Gommino loafer is updated in a sleek sabot cut that's equally intriguing—a fresh take on a classic that's just casual enough. The Di Bag was reinterpreted in a sack version in a number of canvas and leather variants that further enhances its versatility and functionality—and perhaps, made even more desirable than before.
The takeaway: By focusing on the timeless rather than the trend-driven, Tamburini’s Tod’s feels refreshingly grounded, yet undeniably modern.
View some of the Tod's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 runway show wasn't an easy one to get to. It's about a half-an-hour drive from the centre of Milan to the industrial space and from the outside, it looked like a blank white canvas. The inside however, Zegna had it converted into a field of linen plants concentrated towards the centre. This became the runway where the models eventually stood along neat emptied out space in the midst of the field.
The linen plants, however, weren't exactly what they appeared to be. Global brand ambassador Leo Wu proved this as I witnessed him cheekily playing with one before plucking it out from its spot. It was a metal rod, varnished into a specific of shade of yellow and gave it quite a naturalistic look. Aside from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection being centred around the brand's traceable Oasi Lino—a concept that's set to continue on every Spring/Summer season—it was also about this idea of how nothing is ever really what it seems. No two things are exactly same for artistic director Alessandro Sartori, even when they looked similar on the runway.
"It is the moment to focus on how items are or can be used, on the singular ways they mould to individual personalities," Sartori says, referencing how it's the right time to expand on the aesthetic that's been crafted and established since Autumn/Winter 2021. It's evident from the fact that the models engaged for the show were as diverse as they come in terms of age, race, and even gender. And while there were some commonalities among some looks in terms of colours or even print, each look was different, brought out even more by the attitude of the model wearing them.
The fit: It's the Zegna that we've all come to adore by Sartori. The tailoring was impeccable with the kind of flow and languid silhouettes that's favoured, but at the same time, cut at the right spots such that none of the models appeared to drown while wearing an oversized polo or a drop-shoulder blazer.
Necklines were reduced further that at times, they didn't require any sort of fastening. It's a subtle tweak but emphasised this hybridisation of formal and relaxed that's become a fundamental Zegna trait. They looked at home worn under the collection's more traditional suiting to create an almost perfectly layered collar effect.
The details: The brand is through and through a ready-to-wear-first brand. At the same time, its Triple Stitch footwear has become such an icon that it may be time to expand that universe a tad further. The runway saw only one footwear adorning the feet of all the models: a new loafer referred to as Mocassin. It's designed with a slightly rounded toe and crafted long and narrow to elongate. True to form, the Mocassin was also minimally designed but again, traipsed that line between formal and relaxed.
Similarly, the brand's bags haven't been much of a focus as a whole, but the capriciousness of the collection's bags definitely drew my attention. For starters, some models (including runway closer, Mads Mikkelsen) carried a different large one on each hand. These were probably some of the biggest bags that Zegna has done in a while and definitely made to be lived in—for just about everything and anything.
Three exceptional looks: The sumptuous and unexpected pairing of deep colours in look 7; the striking printed look 24 that's essentially a shortened pyjama suit; and look 33's stunning tonal combination of yellows with trousers cut to make one look taller.
The takeaway: A truly studied approach to approaching wearable luxury fashion in the contemporary sense.
View the full Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.
I don't think anyone had so much of an inkling as to how the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was going to look like. Creative director Sabato De Sarno left little clues, and the show invite—a set square engraved with "la misura dell'amore è amare senza misura" ("the measure of love is to love without measure")—ultimately didn't really have anything to do with geometry or math. And thank god for that because after a hectic Milan Fashion Week Men's schedule, I'm sure none of us would have wanted a problem to figure out.
To some, however, De Sarno's Gucci aesthetic may be a problem. Some might say that his sophomore menswear collection, while a more vibrant proposal with prints ripe for the season, left little to be desired; that there isn't a strong enough of a point-of-view.
Having a "point-of-view" tends to be thought of as having concepts that are singular—a look so unique and easily identifiable that it will immediately be recognisable as being Gucci. I'd argue that De Sarno doesn't lack one, but rather, it's an aesthetic that isn't targeted to just one archetype.
The setting of the runway show reflected this. The Triennale Milano is a museum of art and design where a diverse range of works are collected and exhibited. I'm not equating the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection to that of works of art (although the oversized shirts decorated completely with paillettes came close) but there seems to be a growing idea of the Gucci wardrobe being able to be collected throughout the season, spliced and then combined to create looks that are part of one's style. Is that enough of a point-of-view?
The fit: It's a the-city-meets-the-beach style narrative consisting of short shorts that would've been perfect for the weather during the show (Paul Mescal made an excellent outfit choice). De Sarno repeated his penchant for oversized tops with shirting left untucked, offering just a peek of the shorts underneath.
Colour-blocking was heavily utilised. In fact, this was a stark difference from the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection—this was colour on steroids almost. Acid hues were paired with vibrant prints of dolphins, surfers, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves.
The details: We do need to talk about the hardware. The Horsebit is set to be an element that De Sarno seems to be planning to drive down our throats. It's apparent on the pointed toe iterations of the Horsebit loafers that he introduced for Autumn/Winter 2024 but this time, expanding the offering with boots. Belts are also given the Horsebit treatment and with a new surprise. What I initially thought were just Horsebit belts from my vantage point were actually a combination of a double-ended snap hook closure (a hardware that has replaced the piston closure in De Sarno's Jackie bags) as well as the d-rings of the Horsebit.
A bag that could potentially be on a lot of people's wishlist would be a new crossbody bag fitted with the snap hook closure. They're slightly reminiscent of the Horsebit 1955 and that's not exactly a bad thing.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's masterful layering of a polo over a shirt; the oversized polo shirt embellished with paillettes in look 26; and look 34's classic with a twist.
The takeaway: Once more (one last time, hopefully), it's a new Gucci that's not quite less is more nor more is more.
View the full Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
I hate to bring up "quiet luxury" again (have we used this term to death yet?) but that pretty much sums up the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear offering by Dolce&Gabbana. And it's not a bad thing.
The Dolce&Gabbana you see on the runway and what you eventually see people buy into tend to be different—the latter is often logo-heavy. For a few season now, the brand has slowly deviated from this, offering collections that are more subtle in branding with a focus on the silhouettes and details that are more emblematic of the brand but not necessarily what the general public's impression of the brand is like.
It's a strong proposition from the very first look: a raffia jacket woven with two different colours, and with weaving techniques also reflected in an extended belt as well as woven lace-ups. Yes, it did look rather stiff on the runway but then came look 12's raffia coat that dispelled any talk about the raffia pieces in the Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 collection being stiff and impractical. The fluidity was there and so was the structure—in other words, splendid Italian craftsmanship.
The fit: It's difficult to not see the nod to '60s and '70s fashion in the collection—coincidentally or not, that was also when wicker-woven design pieces reigned supreme—but kept to Dolce&Gabbana's classic oversized-top look. There were some semblances of tailoring in a few looks but the overall aesthetic skewed towards the summer holiday locales of Capri, Venice, and Portofino. Sailor-collared shirting were punctuated with stripes of different widths (lending that '70s vibe), while scarves adorned looks that were made perfect for the Italian coast.
The details: Weaving is undoubtedly the central technique that the collection was built around. Dolce&Gabbana employed weaving techniques across leather and raffia. They were varied in applications as well as techniques, with some appearing like crochet, especially in a number of footwear.
What caught my eye however, were the coral embroideries that were featured quite beautifully in a number of looks. It was look 29's variation—an ivory white suit with trousers decorated with coral-hued embellishments—where I could hear the clinging of the pieces as the model walked in front of me. And considering how loud fashion shows tend to be, it was quite an experience.
Three exceptional looks: Look 15's oversized woven top matched with an equally woven bag and shoes; the monochromatic colour-blocking in look 21 with the most gorgeous shade of green; and look 38's clever use of stripes.
The takeaway: Refined, different, and subtle all the same–this is a Dolce&Gabbana collection for the discerning.
View the full Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
