There was no doubt that Burberry chief creative officer Daniel Lee's first showing for the British brand was a stark departure from predecessor Riccardo Tisci's.
The debut—a collection that we're finally able to experience in boutiques now—was a return to Burberry's Britishness, replete with elements and motifs ripped from Lee's lived experiences as a Brit as well as from the brand's archives. The Burberry check was rendered at a slant and blown up (a simple but effective way of modernising the brand signifier) and the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) revived as a complementary branding device.
For the Burberry Summer 2024 collection, Lee continued to reimagine the brand's heritage with an even more focused lens. Building a new visual vocabulary for a brand like Burberry is no mean feat. With the second runway collection, we're starting to see the fruits of that labour.
If the Winter 2024 collection was a foundational collection that at times may have seemed a bit chaotic—a mallard beanie and a cacophony of visuals ranging from roses to more mallards to the EKD—the Summer 2024 collection felt more intentional and evolved. Surprisingly, the latter was more subdued and less colourful than the debut. In fact, the 'knight blue' that Lee has adopted for Burberry was little to be seen on the runway.
The fit: The overall colour palette for the collection was relatively quite dark. Instead of knight blue, colours graduated from black to a dark green before branching off to richer hues.
Yet, at the same time, prints were a key focus of the collection. What appeared as though vintage scarf prints lifted from the Burberry archives were actually prints of metal hardware in the shape of a horse—part of the Knight bag introduced for Winter 2023—and chains. Similarly, a repeated motif of the clasp of the Rocking Horse bag too appeared as a print. Both prints adorned a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including a new take on the classic Burberry trench. Lee's intent was to reimagine the trench for the summer and that included making it more lightweight than ever—in look 47, the trench could be seen hung by the neck simply by a thin chain.
What I especially liked about Burberry Summer 2024 was how Lee doubled down on the brand's military past. And while that could have resulted in quite costume-y creations, the ready-to-wear looked simply at home. Epaulettes on shirting as well as outerwear extended well beyond the shoulder line, while the trench coats cut a sharp, regimental silhouette while still retaining a sense of modernity with a dropped waist and exaggerated belt.
The details: Lee may have kept the tailoring sharp but he injected off-kilter semblances in the styling as well as accessories. The collection's slip-ons for example (looks 41 and 45) were doused in rhinestones with the EKD fixed like one would a Crocs Jibbitz. Leather loafers were crafted with an extended leather buckle in the shape of the Burberry Shield bag and topped with the EKD. It's these constant details that help drive the message of the new subtle visual vocabulary of Lee's Burberry.
Three exceptional looks: The ease and simplicity of look 16's black fit embellished with cleverly printed trousers; look 23's printed coordinates that could easily be broken up into pieces that could stand on their own; and look 45's new take of dressed up casual in classic Christopher Bailey-era hues.
The takeaway: Burberry is back to being refined with doses of unexpected quirks—a truly Brit aesthetic.
View the full Burberry Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
The towering fountains by American artist Lynda Benglis weren't the only elements from the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear show that stood out on the runway. The moment the first model walked out—decked out in a completely crystallised look—it was certain that we were about to witness a show.
Although, if one was expecting nonplussed theatrics, it wasn't exactly that kind of a show. Sure, there were highly conceptual pieces peppered in between the 51-look collection—a number of tops fashioned as blown-up swatches of jacquard fabrics each complete with a dress pin, for example—but creative director Jonathan Anderson's work has been revolving around subtle theatrics of late.
As with the past couple of seasons, the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear collection was a focus on materiality set against familiar wardrobe staples. It was particularly a study of challenging perceptions; that the ordinary could be extraordinary by just a slight tweak. Crystal-embellished pieces were a common sight on denim and a slew of accessories from sunglasses to round-toe footwear. They dressed up what would've been classic striped shirts, jumpers, polos, and blazers.
Footwear merged ready-to-wear in a number of looks, blurring the lines between accessory and clothing. On the collection's leather jumpsuits—crafted in quite minimal fashion—hems quite seamlessly joined crepe soles.
The fit: Proportions were skewed in almost every look. Trousers were made to sit incredibly high on the waist—at least slightly above the belly button. The intent was to elongate legs, while at the same time, compressing the torso with tops intentionally tucked in, and in some cases, cropped to accommodate the distorted silhouette.
There was a sense of simplicity being not exactly that simple. Asymmetric cuts on knitwear drove the point of subtle-tweaking to achieve new forms, while still keeping to a relatively easy-to-wear colour palette.
The details: Anderson introduced the Loewe Pebble bucket bag. The name refers to the pebble-shaped Anagram-engraved hardware that acts as the bag strap's length adjuster. Available in suede and leather, the strap allows it to be both carried as a tote as well as comfortably draped across the body.
The collection's series of sunglasses echoed the glittery treatments that were key throughout. But unlike the ready-to-wear and a selection of bags and shoes, these were speckled with crystals instead of being completely drenched in them—perfect for anyone looking to make a relatively quieter statement.
Three exceptional looks: Look 10 may be a bit out there (and may not even be reproduced commercially) but captured multiple elements of the collection perfectly; look 16's glittery shirt and denim combination was easily the best of the lot; and look 47 that displayed Loewe's leather mastery.
The takeaway: It's always about proportions, even when you don't have the body of a model.
View the full Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
It's not that there's nothing sexy about Hermès; there's nothing explicitly or brashly so about the storied luxury house. For spring/summer 2024, longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian pushed the limits of what we know of Hermès with a play on summer sensuality by way of layered contrasts and lots of skin.
There's an architectural element to the spring/summer 2024 menswear collection that's reflected in the staging of the show. Nichanian intended the clothes to act as architecture, from which the body became the foundation.
Models appeared from behind openwork screens resembling the graph-like fabrics that ran rampant throughout the collection. Lightweight—and at times, translucent—fabrications were layered atop of each while modestly revealing skin, especially in the collection's lighter hues.
But what was the most surprising element of the show were the shorts. Nichanian opted for shorts with inseams that couldn't be longer than five inches. It's quite possibly the shortest that Hermès has ever gone when it comes to the length of shorts. It's hardly anything to complain about given the heatwave we've been experiencing, but for Hermès, it's quite a big deal.
The fit: With the short shorts, the revealing of skin was still done tastefully—the Hermès way. The shorts were crafted from a range of cotton blends as well as technical fabrics. They were designed with elasticated waistbands that still featured belt loops for an elevated look and for the added style option of wearing one with a belt (or two as they're styled).
The entire spring/summer 2024 menswear collection felt free in a sense that nothing felt constricted. Silhouettes consisted of roomy cut shirts and blousons with trousers that range from slim- (but not excessively so) to wide-cut that were all elasticised at the waist.
The details: The opening look included a Haut à Courroies bag that was treated as though it's been weathered out in the sun. A slight imprint of the bag's lock, clochette as well as its flaps were done in a subtle tonal variation—a beautiful rendition to a classic icon.
The collection's double étrivière belts—essentially fitted with buckles that resemble stirrups—were some of the more inspired elements in the collection. They're connected in the middle by a chain that added some edge, and recalls the more punk-esque autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection presented earlier this year.
Three exceptional looks: Look 6's easy, summer fit that featured the collection's shorts as well as a crinkled blazer topped off with a roped tote bag; look 25's option of layering pretty much the same outfit as in look 6, with a deliciously oversized shortened parka; and look 46's knit-layering masterclass.
The takeaway: Showing off skin tastefully is an art.
View the full Hermès spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
It would have been easy to make his fifth anniversary as artistic director of Dior Men all about him. And it would've been justifiable too, seeing how Kim Jones has continuously crafted collection after collection of menswear offerings while tapping into Dior's archives and haute couture sensibilities. Jones' inclination to collaborate with other brands, designers, and artists have also helped widened Dior Men's reach.
Yet, the Dior Men spring/summer 2024 collection was far from an ego trip.
True to form, Jones once again referenced Dior's storied history. "Dior is an haute couture house: it is all about the clothes. At the heart of Dior is silhouette, shape, technique and fabrication of the very highest order," says Jones in the collection notes. "It's a culture we have inherited from womenswear past and applied to menswear present. And for the first time in our collections, it is a collage of influences from different Dior predecessors and eras we wanted to pay tribute to at once—together with some of our own. All are connected through texture and technique alongside some of the Dior pop icons, particularly the Cannage."
The show's staging seemed to suggest—on his fifth anniversary no less; a feat that not many can claim in fashion nowadays—that Jones was leaving it all out in the open. The entirety of the collection's 51 looks ascended from below the tiled floor and models stood waiting for their turn to walk along the grid's perimeter. There was no pretence in the spring/summer 2024 collection—no surprises, just well executed designs that cemented the Dior Men canon he's crafted five years ago.
The fit: Jones referenced a quartet of the house's former creative heads for the Dior Men spring/summer 2024 collection. Yves Saint Laurent's silhouettes were the guiding principle in the collection's look, particularly in the effortless, sweeping tailoring brought about by trousers cropped slightly above the ankles and at times designed with pleats for added volume. The collection's defining piece, the cardigan, was casually draped over shoulders in multiple variations of Cannage tweeds, Gianfranco Ferré-inspired ornate embellishments as well as dripping cabochons—the latter a Monsieur Dior nod.
Marc Bohan's play of textures informed the tactile elements of the collection. Tweed was the main vehicle used across a variety of pieces, expanding its use from just the traditional. It was seen on everything from summer-appropriate vests to all manner of the collection's bags and accessories, especially the iconic Saddle.
The details: Loafers—tweed or otherwise—were stamped with a new circular Dior logo derived from the Lady Dior hardware. The logo appeared as buckles on a number of bags too. Sandwich bags crafted in a selection of the collection's key fabrications would most likely be the novelty accessory of the season, and was most beautifully executed in supple leather decorated with the Cannage motif. The eye-catching beanies seen on a number of models, incorporated ronghua right in the centre. These velvet flowers were crafted by master craftsmen in the trade who worked closely with the Dior ateliers.
Three exceptional looks: Look 7's stunning Cannage tweed coat in signature Dior grey and paired with a pop of bold colour in the form of a beanie; the tailoring in look 31 that incorporated a bowtie appliqué on a pocket of the three-buttoned blazer; and the closing look 51 that was dripping with cabochons paired with high-fluo pink.
The takeaway: Who needs a collaboration when the past offers so much inspiration and content to remix for the now?
View the full Dior Men spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
There were no shortage of celebrities—hailed from all over the world—at the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear runway show. For the first time at the maison, the creative direction of its menswear universe has been handed over to a celebrity too: the multi-hyphenate Pharrell Williams. His star power drew entertainment heavyweights the likes of Beyoncé and husband Jay-Z, expecting couple Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Singapore's very own JJ Lin, K-pop stars Jackson Wang and BamBam, and more.
Williams delivered a show. Set right on the Pont Neuf, the backdrop was LVMH chief Bernard Arnault's very own slice of Paris—the area on the right bank where the Louis Vuitton studios, department store La Samaritaine, and Cheval Blanc Paris are all situated next to each other and owned by the French conglomerate. Guests sat flanking the entirety of the runway as gospel choir Voices of Fire and an orchestra provided the show's soundtrack.
In many ways, it was reminiscent of the late Virgil Abloh's live runway shows. More than just about the clothes and accessories, Abloh's were moments that intertwined music, art and culture with fashion—Williams did the same. The inclusion of familiar non-model faces in the runway line-up such as fashion designers Stefano Pilati and Dao Yi Chow (amongst other notable personalities outside of fashion) too added to the sense of community and openness beyond traditional fashion elites.
Intentional or not, it did seem as though Williams was paying homage to Abloh in the show's set. The runway was lined in gold, recalling Abloh's first runway show for the maison where he reimagined a yellow brick road. Abloh's tenure at Louis Vuitton was of course, monumentally successful, and if anything, Williams' debut could look to be following the same path.
The fit: There's a decidedly workwear approach peppered throughout the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear collection. Denim coordinates in various treatments and washes—mostly featuring signature Louis Vuitton motifs—were some of the more classic pieces that I could see being perennial pieces season after season. Hardier, almost military-inspired elements were also apparent as they were juxtaposed against tailored options.
The Damier was Williams' key focus, highlighting the house signature rather aggressively. His very own interpretation is the Damoflage—a combination of the camouflage print with the Damier. Rendered in three different colourways, the Damoflage was featured across ready-to-wear and accessories with the traditional camouflage reinterpreted as pixels merging with the Damier. On the more classic front, the Damier was also reimagined in primary colours as previewed by the Rihanna-fronted campaign released prior to the show.
Quite surprisingly, the collection didn't lean heavily into streetwear. Tailoring remained a sizeable bulk of the line-up ranging from oversized cuts in classic fabrications to those embellished with LV charms.
The details: Williams brought out the pearls as trims on tracksuits and a slew of accessories. Reminiscent of the custom Tiffany & Co. glasses that he's often spotted wearing (including for the show), some of the sunglasses featured a mohawk-like arrangement around the frame. Segments of bag straps and chains were also taken over by pearls, and a selection of pearl necklaces as well as brooches added that extra quintessential Williams stamp.
What was quite interesting was Williams' take on the Louis Vuitton teddy bear. First designed by former creative director Marc Jacobs—who also first brought Williams into the Louis Vuitton fold—Williams covered it entirely in Damoflage. And as an extension of the reference, shearling slippers were designed with soles resembling bear paws.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9 for anyone wanting to emulate Williams' style; look 50's all-denim ensemble that could be worn for dressier occasions; and look 69's tailoring-focused look tastefully accessorised with dandy pearls.
The takeaway: It's Louis Vuitton as Williams would wear it. In other words: irreverent and relevant.
View the full Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
192 bales of raw linen were transported from Normandy to Milan for the Zegna spring/summer 2024 runway show. They formed an oasis of sorts—Zegna calls the show L'Oasi di Lino (translation: the linen oasis)—within the Piazza San Fedele in Milan.
More than a showcase of what's coming up for the season, the show was once again a reiteration of Zegna's efforts at ensuring that its materials—the very basis of the brand—are sourced and produced with as little negative effects to the environment as possible. And before you call out the brand for potentially wasting raw materials for the show's scenography, Zegna ensures that the raw linen will be turned into its Oasi Linen fabric in Italy. It's also committed to certifying Oasi Linen as 100 percent traceable by 2024.
With that, the hero of the Zegna spring/summer 2024 collection is linen. A number of amalgamations were featured throughout the collection with treatments that displayed artistic director Alessandro Sartori's tactile mastery in materiality. And of course, his penchant for monochromatic looks.
The fit: There was an overall sense of ease and lightness to the collection that's typical of Zegna, and it's even more so owed to the generally linen-based fabrication. Shorts were cut roomy and grazed the knees, and were mostly part of coordinates—a Sartori-favoured leitmotif of constant reimaginings of men's suiting. Blazers were cut without lapels for a more streamlined appearance and oversized outerwear were designed with clean lines ensuring that elements were all flushed with little flourishes. On some instances where lapels did appear, they're actually a result of trompe-l'œil techniques, especially visible on the leather pieces (looks 27 and 33).
The collection's knitwear amplified the sense of tactility, adding both visual interest as well as contrasting textures. And if there's one thing that grounded the entire collection, it would be the triangular scarves seen on a number of looks. There's a sprezzatura sensibility about them that conjures this idea of an Italian summer—perhaps lounging around next to bales of hay (or linen) and without a single care in the world.
The details: Soft handbags crafted from supple leather made several appearances, echoing a similar kind of airiness of the ready-to-wear. The footwear though are the stars. The Triple Stitch was adapted into an espadrille-hybrid with visible rope-stitching running along the soles. Sartori also introduced a new slip-on shoe design cut from one piece of leather and affixed with chunky, textured soles for a truly sophisticated look.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's classic Zegna fit with the addition of a triangular scarf for that added style factor; look 18 was a beautifully cut jumpsuit that retained elements of traditional menswear tailoring, especially in the interior; and look 45's textural masterpiece in the collection's standout flamingo hue.
The takeaway: This is not your grandfather's linen.
View the full Zegna spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
There's a reason why the Fendi spring/summer 2024 menswear collection was shown out of its usual Milan Fashion Week Men's schedule. Close to Florence in Capannuccia (part of the Tuscany countryside), Fendi recently opened Fendi Factory, a new site housing production, laboratories, offices, and services of the house. And in honour of the milestone, artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi presented the collection within the confines of the expansive production site where the artisans could visibly be seen working at the same time.
The message was clear: craft is inherent in Fendi's oeuvre. It wasn't only in the thematic narrative of the spring/summer 2024 menswear collection; Silvia also walked down the runway during the finale, accompanied by a parade of Fendi artisans.
The fit: Fendi refers to the collection as 'corporate artisan'. Essentially, the entire collection was a hyper fictional representation of a Fendi artisan—fashion-forward flourishes of artisan-inspired tools and workwear done in luxurious materials and cuts. A bulk of the ready-to-wear looks were based around tailored workwear with an unrestrictive sense of ease and fluidity.
The artisan's apron was core to the collection and was rendered in varying permutations. In its purest, it's reimagined in leather, while other looks saw the apron broken into parts and incorporated as part of the garments themselves. The apron also became the basis for a slew of halter-neck shirting that's reminiscent of Silvia's severe cropped tops for spring/summer 2022's menswear collection—another example of Silvia pushing the boundaries of menswear within the Fendi universe.
Perhaps the most outré garment from the collection would be the ribbed bodysuits that offer a sliver of the hip to be seen, while still retaining a classic polo or tank silhouette at the top.
The details: In an extension of the art of craftsmanship within the collection, Japanese architect Kengo Kuma was tasked with interpreting the Fendi Peekaboo bag, the Baguette Soft Trunk and the Fendi Flow sneakers. Kuma utilised waranshi and yatara ami-weaving techniques to construct and differentiate his interpretations from the rest of the accessories. The former consists of washi paper made from cotton and tree bark fibres that resulted in a textural, mottled façade to each piece; while the later is used as structural foundations to the Peekaboo bags and Fendi Flow sneakers.
Three exceptional looks: Look 6's all-cream look fully embodied the workwear inspiration with precise topstitching that grounded the entire look (and peep the super decadent coffee cup holder as well as that measuring tape detail); look 34's polo bodysuit look is how corporate sexy should be like; and look 38 in its full teal moment with deconstructed sleeves.
The takeaway: If there's to be a blueprint for future workwear-inspired collections—one that doesn't take itself too seriously—this would be it.
View the full Fendi spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The menswear evolution at Saint Laurent under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello has been a gradual one. The beginning of his tenure saw Vaccarello sticking to predecessor Hedi Slimane's penchant for rock-and-roll skinnies, while at the same time adding his own inflections of chic. Since then—he's recently passed the seventh-year mark—Vaccarello has increasingly referenced Saint Laurent's archives, especially the work of its founder.
The Saint Laurent summer 2024 runway show was held in Berlin, Germany. While it may be more famously known for its vibrant rave and party culture, the city's art and design scenes too require little introduction. The glass-and-steel Neue Nationalgalerie—a modern art museum designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe—provided the perfect setting for the summer 2024 collection that further emphasised on Vaccarello's stamp for Saint Laurent: modern, elegant, and indisputably chic.
The fit: Just like the brand's previous presentation (the winter 2023 womenswear runway show), the focus for the summer 2024 menswear collection was the shoulder. Strong and structured, the general look consisted of an oversized blazer paired with high-waisted flute trousers, achieving a top-heavy silhouette that tapered down. The opening looks were classic pairings of tuxedos interpreted in the collection's silhouette but as the show progressed, button-downs were substituted in favour of neck-plunging tank tops crafted from silk.
When shoulders weren't accentuated and exaggerated by deftly tailored blazers and shirting, they were left bare. The aforementioned tank tops were joined by sheer blouses decorated with polka dots and extended scarf collars, halter-neck tops, toga blouses, and off-shoulder tops that all featured some manner of elegant draping.
The overall sense of flou was evident in the silk fabrications, but also in the continuation of winter 2023 menswear's use of oversized pussy bows tied around the neck.
The details: It does seem that when Vaccarello does a fashion show, the focus is almost strictly on the clothes and not much else. The Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection was no different—there were no bags to speak of. The accessory du jour however, were aviator sunglasses. And true to form, the devil was in the details. What may have seemed like regular aviators, were given a modern twist with temples connected to the bottom of lenses instead of the top.
If you're looking for an update to wearing a shirt, refer to look 23's styling tip of treating one like how you would a bathrobe—simply disregard the buttons, wrap the shirt around the waist and tuck it into trousers. It's not a new hack by any means but a nifty one to experiment with oversized shirts.
Three exceptional looks: Look 5 is quintessential to the Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection that's further elevated with the hint of a red pocket square; look 29 for a dramatic elegance befitting any occasion; and look 37 that's proof of the timeless simplicity of an all-black fit.
The takeaway: If this summer season is all about baring abs with cropped tops, summer 2024 may perhaps be the time to work on the pecs and guns.
View the full Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.