Givenchy is currently in transition. After the departure of former artistic director Matthew M Williams, the storied luxury fashion house is still left without a creative head. Its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection presented during Paris Fashion Week Men's in January this year, was designed in-house and showcased salon-style at the House's headquarters.
Williams officially left Givenchy on 1 January 2024 after three years, with his last efforts for the House being its Pre-Autumn 2024 womenswear and menswear collections. But his final menswear runway show was for the Spring/Summer 2024 season with the collection currently available in boutiques.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection draws on the study of elegance and sartorialism with school uniforms as a starting point. It's a stylistic dialogue between traditional masculine code of dress and the classic wardrobe of a gentlemen. Williams too applied some of his own experiences growing up with fashion through his penchant for streetwear-inspired stylings evident in the collection's more utilitarian pieces.
At the gallery below, take a look at some of the backstage moments from the show, lensed by Adam Katz Sinding.
The fit: The Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was an intimate one. Held salon-style at its Parisian headquarters, the collection was designed by the Givenchy studio—Matthew M. Williams' final collection was for Pre-Autumn 2024. To be honest, even without the hand of a known creative director, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection felt a lot more refined with just enough injections of playful modern nuances.
The entire collection was based on founder Hubert de Givenchy's personal wardrobe with elements that he had a penchant for. The use of the colour sapphire, for example, was adopted because de Givenchy adored it as a replacement for black, while cut up armholes of outerwear were an ode to his penchant for capes. Tailoring was central to the collection—although trousers could have done with a little bit of length adjustments but I'm just nitpicking—with suits and tailored outerwear making up a bulk of the collection. And in true Givenchy style, the shoulders were strong and cutting.
The details: Fun came with the way that an archival cat motif was incorporated into some of the looks. It was done tongue-in-cheek as a oversized parka that featured a number of the cat faces seemingly drowning in their own fur, and in another, the fur took on the form of a shearling jacket-cape hybrid. In look 18, it became a mini shearling crossbody that was paired with a tank featuring the print.
What was quite a stunner, especially up close, was the closing look's jacket. Beautifully ornate, the jacket was a reminder of the kind of craftsmanship that the design studio is capable of, and one that had been sorely missed on the runways.
Three exceptional looks: Look 2's interpretation of the studio's blouse blanche as a workwear staple; the double cardigan styling of look 13; and the closing look.
The takeaway: Not all luxury fashion houses need to infuse some semblance of streetwear into their designs.
View the full Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Within the realm of menswear tailoring, the structures and limits are palpable, owing to the time-honoured techniques of not only constructing a suit, but also in the idea of tailoring as a garment of authority. Chinese designer Sean Suen recognises this. His eponymous label's Autumn/Winter 2024 collection—and also, pretty much his entire repertoire thus far—tapped on the conventions of tailoring by referencing the period where Western tailoring began being adopted by the East.
There's an undeniably rebellious take on tailoring, and I'm not even talking about the one look where the model revealed some derrière. Traditional menswear silhouettes were deconstructed before being spliced together, creating asymmetrical shapes that formed beautiful drapes. At the heart of it was a '50s-led reference with wide ties and geometric prints indicative of the period.
The details: While the tailoring was, in every sense, contemporary, Suen included mandarin-collared suiting. But of course, they were also rendered in more contemporary styles—the first outing saw elongated sleeves with an oversized bodice with equally oversized patch pockets.
On a number of looks, Suen piled on the waistbands. On a number of occasions, they took on the appearance of a visible ribbed knit layer (akin to that play of visible boxer waistbands) while others were more literal interpretations of a double layer of trouser waistbands.
Three exceptional looks: Look 2 and its spliced collar and draped asymmetry; the obvious old-school reference of look 11 but made fresh; and the regality of look 27 that had tie bars used as lapel pins.
The takeaway: There are always ways to move around the preconceived confines of menswear, and Sean Suen is becoming quite a master at it.
View the full Sean Suen Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Dries Van Noten can do no wrong in my eyes. There's consistency in his design aesthetic—you can definitely tell a Dries Van Noten piece even with the brand steering away from obvious logos and branding—but Papa Dries offers something new every season.
For Autumn/Winter 2024, the man known for his play with prints and proportions, kicked things off with a string of dark tailored looks. Each felt different and at times disjointed from the one before—yet that was the unifying narrative. The collection was a play in the unexpected and of juxtaposition. There was no telling what the next look would be as he moved from a cuttingly tailored suit worn almost rock-and-roll-like with a fringed, long scarf, to a deconstructed jumper worn over a languid, long coat.
As the darks became increasingly punctuated by textures and infusions of muted colours, Papa Dries revealed a sudden spate of his signature prints and colour-blocking. But at the same time, they remained washed and pared back in intensity.
The details: There was a studied use of garments in non-traditional ways. Jumpers were worn either unzipped from the side or completely cropped with zippered hems. Leather was used as mock-neck tops, while shirting and a number of jackets were fastened with brooches and pins for a rakish drape that was simply sublime. Long opera-like gloves took on many different forms and added edge to some of the simplest tailoring and combinations in the collection.
But at the end of it all, everything was wearable—a key Dries Van Noten element.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9 that I honestly wanted to wear right there and then off the runway; look 24's brilliant use of textures and draping; and look 53 that's a combination of both.
The takeaway: Whatever Papa Dries has been doing to keep his creativity constantly fresh yet consistent, I want it.
View the full Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Kenzo was my last show for day four of Paris Fashion Week Men's and after a rather exhausting day, it personally wasn't as exciting as it ought to be in the moment. The venue was spectacular, however. Held at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, the space offered a brilliant backdrop for an Autumn/Winter 2024 collection themed around the cross-cultural exchange of the origins of the fictional universe of the Star Wars franchise.
Thankfully, artistic director Nigo opted to not be literal with the inspiration—there weren't obvious nods to the films nor were there prints done in collaboration with the franchise. But rather, he chose to incorporate the Asian influences of the Star Wars lore and references into the silhouettes. Outerwear had semblances of sci-fi with knot fastenings adorning the front.
The details: The silhouettes may not have been severe or fashion-forward, but the prints added some punch to the entire collection. A woven pattern inspired by Japanese hikeshi-banten fireman's jackets appeared on everything from suits to workwear, while a number of different tiger motifs were rendered in jacquards and embroideries.
Three exceptional looks: Look 6's more extravagant coords that featured the collection's more standout motif; look 30's streamlined tailoring; and look 50 that felt more Kenzo by Nigo.
The takeaway: Elevated and streamlined, yes. But where's the fun?
View the full Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
It may be the Year of the Dragon but every animal of the Chinese Zodiac is a perennial representation of the passion-filled mythological race that determined the order of the lunar calendar. After all, it's a new year, new you. From fragrances to timepieces, we've curated an edit of items tailored to each characteristic from Raffles City to put that extra spring in your step. With tobyato adding his own touch on the Chinese Zodiac, we present a very special Esquire 12.
You’re a Dragon. You’re eccentric, and powerfully so. A BOSS cardigan crafted from a blend of cashmere captures that sense of regality, punctuated by an embroidered, stylised calligraphy by calligrapher Feng Tang. There’s no doubt that you’re the boss in a piece as unapologetically bold such as this—no mere mortal could pull this off like you do.
BOSS
#01-37B
For the trustworthy Rabbit, equally trusted Aesop grooming products are essential in ensuring that elegant façade remains in the spring of life. A Moroccan Neroli shaving duet—serum and post-shave lotion—helps keep skin supple and hair-free shape, while a facial hydrating serum and anti-oxidant eye cream act as youth-locking assistance.
Aesop
#01-44A
As unpredictable as the Tiger, there’s no telling what Onitsuka Tiger could ever be up to. The brand known for some iconic footwear, refreshes its chunky outsoled Dentigre LS sneakers with a mixed-media upper rendered in shades of grey. Red topstitching runs across for tasteful nods to the festivities while retaining its statement-making appearance like that of the Tiger’s stripes.
Onitsuka Tiger
#01-14
Steady and dependable like the Ox, you’re a ball of love at the heart of all that steely exterior. APM Monaco’s Morse Code series is a perfect match—a stylish go-to that effortlessly dresses up any outfit. Each piece taps into your softer side with words of affection reflected through coded messages embedded into its façade. Because no one really needs to know how you really feel, unless you want them to.
APM Monaco
#01-06
Why does one need five eau de parfums on hand? Because a quick-witted Rat knows to be adaptable in whatever situation it might find itself. The set comprises five 10ml vials of some of Creed’s most prized fragrances—from Green Irish Tweed to Aventus—each designed to cater to different moods and occasions. They’re perfectly sized to keep as part of a flight pack of essentials too, so you smell fresh upon landing at any destination.
Creed
#01-39C
The Pig gets a bad rep for being a glutton, leaving its determined personality overlooked. These coffee-laced assortments by Bacha Coffee will help to keep the drive going as one gets through the day. Start with a splendid cup 100 per cent Arabica coffee, snack on dark chocolate-covered coffee beans, and treat yourself to a croissant or two.
Bacha Coffee
#01-38/39
Chinese streetwear meets American icon in this collaborative effort between CLOT and Tommy Hilfiger. The latter’s emblematic colours have been cleverly interwoven with CLOT’s Chinese-inspired motifs to create a pattern that mashes the two seamlessly on this bucket hat. Prudent like the Dog, you’ll be prepared for light rain and shine no matter where you go, and rather stylishly so.
Tommy Hilfiger
#01-33
They say not to put your eggs in one basket—but when said basket is an intricately designed Shanghai Tang jewellery box in collaboration with artist Jacky Tsai, we see no harm in it. You’d want to fill it with your daily assortment of rings, bracelets, ear cuffs and more. And perhaps, being an observant Rooster, you’d make some space for the missus because hers is almost stuffed to the brim.
Shanghai Tang
#01-27A
The Monkey’s charm and versatility is exemplified quite fittingly in the latest Top Time piece by Breitling. Inspired by second-generation Chevrolet Corvettes, the red dial is immediately as stunning as the 1960s icon and is coupled with subdials that give the feel of vintage dashboard gauges. The perforated leather strap adds to the sportscar nod yet makes for an outstanding accessory you’d want to flex any day of the week.
Breitling
#01-35/35A
Real GOATs know that Givenchy’s all about refined elegance and the Gentleman Society rings true from bottle design to scent. The eau de parfum opens with a blend of sage and wild narcissus. Then the contrast hits—a quartet of vetiver essences coupled with a woody base—resulting in a bold, sophisticated fragrance crafted for the gentleman who’s constantly reinventing himself.
Givenchy
#01-40B
More than a decade has passed since the XT-6 first broke into the scene. It’s become synonymous with ultra-distance race athletes, owing to the sneaker’s lightweight and durable construction. The XT-6 has been reimagined with new colours and materials, but its heightened comfort and stability remains—no matter how hard and long one steams through harsh terrains at the speed of the energetic Horse.
Salomon
#02-31
Like the intelligence portrayed by the Snake, a little illumination goes a long way. With Dinesh to light the way home, its portability allows for an immediate brightening anywhere: within and outside your abode. With three levels of brightness, the Dinesh is powered by a simple charge via a USB connector. When it’s sufficiently suffused, create your own ambience by hanging it or leaving it on a flat surface.
Kave Home
#03-40/41
Find our more about Raffles City's "Spring in the City".
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Illustration: tobyato
Styling: Asri Jasman
After almost two months since Walter Chiapponi's swansong at Tod's for its Spring/Summer 2024 women's runway show, the Italian brand has announced a successor. Matteo Tamburini has been given the creative reins and is set to make his debut in February to showcase Tod's Autumn/Winter 2024 women's collection. Tamburini comes from Bottega Veneta, where he has been working since 2017, first under the creative directorship of Tomas Maier.
And hours before Tod's made its announcement, Givenchy made public its decision to end its partnership with creative director Matthew M. Williams after three years. Williams is set to officially step down effective 1 January 2024, with his final efforts for the fashion house—the Pre-Autumn 2024 collections for both menswear and womenswear—scheduled to be unveiled this month. Expectedly, no successor has been named yet. The in-house design team is said to be filling in while a new creative head is officially confirmed. Williams joined Givenchy in 2020, succeeding Riccardo Tisci's 12-year run.
It's Maison Kitsuné's Parisian-meets-Japanese aesthetics combined with Samsonite's practical and functional travel companions. The Maison Kitsuné x Samsonite collection plays on the former's signature Camo Fox motif in two monochromatic renditions across a range of lifestyle and travel accessories. Highlights include a reworked version of Samsonite's Spinner 68 luggage—perfect for long trips—and a compact Crossbody bag made to be an indispensable daily accessory. Every piece in the collection also comes with a detachable charm.
The Maison Kitsuné x Samsonite collection is now available in Samsonite stores and online at samsonite.com.sg.
Ahead of the launch of the Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Kenzo, comes a special capsule collection with Japanese artist Verdy. A longtime friend of creative director Nigo, Verdy added his artistic, graphic expressions to the main Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The Kenzo x Verdy collection serves as a precursor with motifs—a number of Kenzo-branding reworked in Verdy's style—taken from the aforementioned collection and translated across a range of easy-to-wear staples rendered in muted colours.
The Kenzo x Verdy collection is now available on kenzo.com and in Kenzo boutiques from 4 December 2023.
...Dior Men. Just before Louis Vuitton held its first-ever runway show in Hong Kong this week, Dior Men made the announcement of its Fall 2024 runway location in the same city. The fashion house has already been making destination runway shows a constant endeavour, especially for its pre-collections with the latest held in Cairo in view of the Great Pyramids.
RIMOWA expands its "Never Still" campaign with the introduction of three more faces to its fold: Blackpink's Rosé, French footballer Kylian Mbappé, and Formula One athlete Lewis Hamilton. The three global icons embody the campaign's latest chapter of travel being more than just for personal advancement, but also an impetus for inner transformation. The campaign's film is scored by Hans Zimmer who created four bespoke tracks in total—one for a collective campaign video, and one for each solo short film.
The nominees for The Fashion Awards 2023—formerly known as the British Fashion Awards—are in. The list of nominees for "Model of the Year", "British Menswear Designer", "British Womenswear Designer", "New Establishment Menswear" and "New Establishment Womenswear" awards were shortlisted by the British Fashion Council together with key press and buyers with in-depth knowledge of the industry. The winners will then be decided by a committee of 1,000 members, with the "Model of the Year" winner determined by public voting for the first time. Up for "British Menswear Designer" are Kim Jones for Dior Men, Martine Rose, Steven Stokey-Daley for S.S. DALEY, Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner, and Kiko Kostadinov.
The Fashion Awards 2023 is scheduled to happen on 4 December 2023 at London's The Royal Albert Hall.
Le Bristol Paris has announced another fashion collaboration. This time, the Parisian hotel is partnering up with Californian brand Sporty & Rich on a range of co-branded ready-to-wear and accessories. Find a a selection of timeless apparel from tees to jumpers and sweatpants as well as caps, socks and other accessories. Each piece is crafted from premium, natural materials and reflects the elegant and sophisticated aesthetic of both brands.
The Le Bristol Paris x Sporty & Rich capsule collection launches 27 September 2023 at Le Bristol Paris Boutique as well as on sportyandrich.com.
The Givenchy boutique in Paragon has officially reopened to reveal a renovated aesthetic that matches current artistic director Matthew M. Williams' vision for the luxury fashion house. Two sculptures in collaboration with British artist Ewan MacFarlane (this is not the first time that Givenchy has collaborated with the artist) add dynamism to the boutique's windows with their atypical postures positioned alongside the house's pieces. The boutique stocks the full range of both the men's and women's collections as well as exclusive capsule collections.
Former Dior artistic director Marc Bohan died on Wednesday in Châtillon-sur-Seine, France. He was 97. Bohan served as artistic director for nearly three decades, succeeding Yves Saint Laurent in 1960. Prior to that, he was already designing for the house since 1958. It was during his time as artistic director that the first iteration of menswear for Dior, Christian Dior Monsieur, was conceived in 1970.
