Dolce&Gabbana

The fit: Elegance was the assignment at Dolce&Gabbana. One of the opening looks was a full black ensemble consisting of a high-neck-collared blouse cut oversized and paired with slim trousers. It was a fine example of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection title: Sleek.

While “sleek” could mean a simplification and the stripping off of excess and unnecessary flourishes, Dolce&Gabbana opted for refinement and elegance.

Sleekness was apparent across the entire collection with black taking prominence. But like most designers, black was the foundation where textural play and tasteful embellishments helped to further refine the looks. Even in a number of the opening looks, black sheens and shines differentiated the components of each outfit, whether they’re subtly done or not.

There was also no stopping the brand from executing exaggerated forms and show-stopping looks. A plush fur coat, for example, wouldn’t necessarily be thought of as “sleek” (although I’m sure the feel of it would be absolutely divine) but again, sleek in the sense that it’s a restrained Dolce&Gabbana where the focus of that particular piece was the grandeur of it with no added details. And trust me, the brand knows how to go over-the-top.

The details: Like many of the brands that have shown a this far, Autumn/Winter 2024 is set to be one where sparkle and shine reign supreme. At Dolce&Gabbana, they’re done sparingly with a standout look included a blazer completely riddled with rhinestones worn over a scoop-neck tank done in the exact same way—sleek. On the tailoring front, suits were cut with slightly cropped blazers (at times with tailcoats) reminiscent of what a conductor would wear, worn with pussy bows blouses (a Dolce&Gabbana classic). Prints and lace too were incorporated in a number of looks—styled either as a quiet statement or paired with pieces of the same make such that the entire look is rather homogenous.

Three exceptional looks: Look 19's super clean and minimal take on a biker jacket that still retains an element of cool; the peacoat in look 34 cut at just the right length and beautifully paired with riding boots; and look 53's take on formal eveningwear—one I'd wear right now.

The takeaway: Even Dolce&Gabbana is adhering to a quieter (I mean, sleeker) fashion movement. But how long will the brand stick to it?

View the full Dolce&Gabbana Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.

Look 1.
Look 2.
Look 3.
Look 4.
Look 5.
Look 6.
Look 7.
Look 8.
Look 9.
Look 10.
Look 11.
Look 12.
Look 13.
Look 14.
Look 15.
Look 16.
Look 17.
Look 18.
Look 19.
Look 20.
Look 21.
Look 22.
Look 23.
Look 24.
Look 25.
Look 26.
Look 27.
Look 28.
Look 29.
Look 30.
Look 31.
Look 32.
Look 33.
Look 34.
Look 35.
Look 36.
Look 37.
Look 38.
Look 39.
Look 40.
Look 41.
Look 42.
Look 43.
Look 44.
Look 45.
Look 46.
Look 47.
Look 48.
Look 49.
Look 50.
Look 51.
Look 52.
Look 53.
Look 54.
Look 55.
Look 56.
Look 57.
Look 58.
Look 59.
Look 60.
Look 61.
Look 62.

Fendi

The fit: Something’s happening with Silvia Venturini Fendi. The artistic director has become quite a rebel of late—a perfectly good thing, in my opinion. What first started as a shocking Spring/Summer 2022 collection that involved severely cropped blazers and tops with waist chains, has continued on with other deviations from traditional menswear.

For Autumn/Winter 2024, Silvia once again subverted menswear codes by incorporating nuances of typically womenswear tropes. What I initially thought was a pencil skirt (the collection’s standout piece made its appearance in the very first look) was actually a pair of berms cut to resemble on—an incredibly low crotch joined inches above the hem. The flow of these skirt-berms—inspired by the spirit of the Scottish kilt—too were deceptive enough to warrant that initial impression.

In a further defiant move, Silvia paired these hybrids with fine gauge knits before layering over coats made for the outdoors. At some glances, the looks appeared somewhat granny-like and eccentric but somehow, cool all the same as Silvia merged the outdoors with the more refined pieces underneath them.

But of course, there were plenty of looks that didn't make use of the hybrids and they weren't lacking any fashion-forward fervour. Tank tops were layered over polos, cardigans were fastened with a single brooch, and tops designed with extended hems.

The details: Pillow-like bags were crafted from quilted leather or shearling, adding to the tactile comfort that they exuded. The Peekaboo and Baguette bags were mainstays; this time they were interpreted with shearling and in some cases, appeared to be slashed to reveal a hidden pop of colour (they're a collaboration with MAD Architects' Ma Yansong). But perhaps, the most talked about accessory at the Fendi Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was the collaboration with Devialet. The handheld portable speaker was already teased moments before the show as Italian rapper Lazza got out of his vehicle with one and a song was played. Let's just say, the sound quality and volume were pretty impressive and something that could be held on your palm.

Three exceptional looks: The simplicity of look 5 with its fitted polo and cardigan in deeply rich autumnal colours; look 39's somewhat collegiate look but elevated with a delicious blue coat; and the closing look consisting of a metallic yarn polo worn with pleated kilt hybrid.

The takeaway: Too afraid to wear a skirt in public? Start with a Fendi skirt-berms hybrid.

View the full Fendi Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.

Look 1.
Look 2.
Look 3.
Look 4.
Look 5.
Look 6.
Look 7.
Look 8.
Look 9.
Look 10.
Look 11.
Look 12.
Look 13.
Look 14.
Look 15.
Look 16.
Look 17.
Look 18.
Look 19.
Look 20.
Look 21.
Look 22.
Look 23.
Look 24.
Look 25.
Look 26.
Look 27.
Look 28.
Look 29.
Look 30.
Look 31.
Look 32.
Look 33.
Look 34.
Look 35.
Look 36.
Look 37.
Look 38.
Look 39.
Look 40.
Look 41.
Look 42.
Look 43.
Look 44.
Look 45.
Look 46.
Look 47.
Look 48.
Look 49.
Look 50.
Look 51.
Look 52.
Look 53.
Look 54.
Look 55.
Look 56.
Look 57.

That concludes fashion month, I suppose. Buyers, stylists, models, and celebrities have been traveling between fashion capitals over the past few weeks to learn how the world's best-dressed men will be dressing for next summer.

So, what's the verdict? Are we all going to be dressed like highlighter pens, or will neutral shades reign supreme once again? Will the silhouettes be baggy or Meet Me in the Bathroom-level skinny? Will our wardrobes be even more gorpcore-y or Y2K or... neither? Without further ado, here's our trend breakdown.

Everyday Essentials, But Make it Fashion

Fendi
Louis Vuitton

Showing at Fendi’s leather goods factory, Silvia Venturini Fendi presented a collection that played tribute to the callous-thumbed artisans that fill her team. Suits came with stitches for fitting alterations and shirts were printed with toolkits, but it was in the accessories where you could see a direct connection to workers’ uniforms. Models walked with F-monogrammed coffee cups (some in holders, some in hand), documents, measuring tape and name tags as if they were just clocking in for another day.

This trend for accessorising everyday items and elevating the supposedly mundane continued into Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton also had a fellow caffeine addict walk their runway, this time with a straw poking out of the coffee cup lid, as well a model who sported a leather version of the LV shopping bag.

Orange is the New Black

Etro

It’s natural for summer collections to be a bit on the brighter side, but no one was expecting the sheer amount of clothes that were imbued with a satsuma-esque shade of orange. While the colour can be intimidating for even the most extroverted dresser, designers made it look as effortless as an Easy Peeler: Dries Van Noten paired pumpkin shorts with a tucked-in double-breasted blazer, while Etro’s more brazen take—a tinsel tank and hoody combo—is for the risk takers. For a contemporary take on suiting, Zegna’s pastel pieces shouldn’t be ignored, and should prove to be a go-to for wedding attire next year, but for casual, everyday-wear, Bianca Saunders’ graphic tees are a must.

It’ll Be a Hat Heavy Summer

Recently, the baseball cap has had a comeback, and it appears that the sporting fervor will continue into next summer as well. Fendi, Martine Rose and Saul Nash all had their own takes, varying from Italian leather to acid-wash denim. But there was more outré headwear, too. Kim Jones had his models wear colourful beanies (at an askew angle) while at Kenzo, Nigo showed wide-brim sun hats and printed berets.

Plain Shirts Won't Cut it

Prada
Dior

The rules of smart-casual dressing have always included a time-tested formula: pair a nice shirt with some more relaxed bottoms and... there you have it. Foolproof, which is why it featured heavily across the spring/summer ’24 shows. But for this season, you should expect shirt designs that are brasher and a lot more eye-catching. Dior, for example, bejewelled a work shirt with a load of blue crystals, while Ami and Dries Van Noten both had heavily sequinned button-downs within their collections. Prada even stuck on 3D florals and some fringing onto theirs. The message is clear: the bolder the better.

This season also saw brands embrace a concept that has been embraced in womenswear for decades: the going out top. Fendi had a halterneck shirt where the arms drape behind, and Loewe presented a metallic blouse that sparkled like a disco ball. And for more retro takes, Saint Laurent had sleeveless pussybows and sheer blouses aplenty.

High Waistbands and Higher Hemlines

Loewe

It’s lucky that the Y2K low-rise trend has barely entered the menswear-sphere, despite having dominated womenswear for seasons now. In fact, brands are rebelling against it. Waistlines were well above the belly button at Loewe and Prada in both trousers and shorts form respectively, while the use of cummerbunds at D&G and Wales Bonner gave the visual illusion of longer legs and shorter torsos.

Hemlines have also started retreating north, despite seasons of the long and slouchy silhouette. All of the longer-length bottoms at Dior were cropped just above the ankle, and at Hermès the hems were turned up to give full view of the models' fisherman sandals. Waistbands and hemlines are moving on up.

Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking

Perennial plants have been blooming in menswear for the last few years, and seeing them blooming in this season’s collections isn’t all that unusual. However, they were blown up to larger and slightly darker sizes as opposed to the more twee prints we had previously seen. As mentioned earlier, Prada had 3D lilies stitched onto shirts, but also positioned them alongside prints of slightly gloomier (potentially underwatered) styles. Emporio Armani centred their black-heavy collection around a ginkgo leaf, where it featured as cut-outs on peak lapel blazers and woven onto lattice-like tops. Valentino had singular roses, an enlarged poppy motif and peonies as part of its sartorial garden, and Kenzo had rose heads printed and stitched onto its denim pieces.

A Suit and Sandal Combo

While pairing a linen suit with sandals isn’t exactly a revolutionary move, the catwalks this year were particularly... toe-heavy. Expect wedding wardrobes to follow suit, for better or worse. Dries Van Noten paired a waist-hugging black suit with leather flip flops, and the toe-dividing footwear was also seen at Wales Bonner, where it was styled with a structured linen two-piece. If you have an aversion to seeing your tootsies outside of beach locations, follow Hermès’ lead by sticking to a fisherman sandal. Suited and booted? No, it’s about being suited and sandaled.

Seeing Double (Breasted Suits)

The sheer volume of suits and tailoring on the spring/summer '24 runways proved that, despite the pandemic's best efforts to the contrary, they are still in demand. Still, it was clear that there was one cut that reigned supreme for the season: the double breasted suit. They opened the show at Givenchy, worn with hands in pockets at Loewe, paired with contrasting trousers at Ami, as part of a three-piece suit at Paul Smith and in a horse-bit check print at Gucci.

Originally published on Esquire UK

Photo by Fendi

There's a reason why the Fendi spring/summer 2024 menswear collection was shown out of its usual Milan Fashion Week Men's schedule. Close to Florence in Capannuccia (part of the Tuscany countryside), Fendi recently opened Fendi Factory, a new site housing production, laboratories, offices, and services of the house. And in honour of the milestone, artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi presented the collection within the confines of the expansive production site where the artisans could visibly be seen working at the same time.

The message was clear: craft is inherent in Fendi's oeuvre. It wasn't only in the thematic narrative of the spring/summer 2024 menswear collection; Silvia also walked down the runway during the finale, accompanied by a parade of Fendi artisans.

The fit: Fendi refers to the collection as 'corporate artisan'. Essentially, the entire collection was a hyper fictional representation of a Fendi artisan—fashion-forward flourishes of artisan-inspired tools and workwear done in luxurious materials and cuts. A bulk of the ready-to-wear looks were based around tailored workwear with an unrestrictive sense of ease and fluidity.

The artisan's apron was core to the collection and was rendered in varying permutations. In its purest, it's reimagined in leather, while other looks saw the apron broken into parts and incorporated as part of the garments themselves. The apron also became the basis for a slew of halter-neck shirting that's reminiscent of Silvia's severe cropped tops for spring/summer 2022's menswear collection—another example of Silvia pushing the boundaries of menswear within the Fendi universe.

Photo by Fendi

Perhaps the most outré garment from the collection would be the ribbed bodysuits that offer a sliver of the hip to be seen, while still retaining a classic polo or tank silhouette at the top.

The details: In an extension of the art of craftsmanship within the collection, Japanese architect Kengo Kuma was tasked with interpreting the Fendi Peekaboo bag, the Baguette Soft Trunk and the Fendi Flow sneakers. Kuma utilised waranshi and yatara ami-weaving techniques to construct and differentiate his interpretations from the rest of the accessories. The former consists of washi paper made from cotton and tree bark fibres that resulted in a textural, mottled façade to each piece; while the later is used as structural foundations to the Peekaboo bags and Fendi Flow sneakers.

Photo by Fendi
Photo by Fendi

Three exceptional looks: Look 6's all-cream look fully embodied the workwear inspiration with precise topstitching that grounded the entire look (and peep the super decadent coffee cup holder as well as that measuring tape detail); look 34's polo bodysuit look is how corporate sexy should be like; and look 38 in its full teal moment with deconstructed sleeves.

The takeaway: If there's to be a blueprint for future workwear-inspired collections—one that doesn't take itself too seriously—this would be it.

View the full Fendi spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.

Look 1. Photo by Fendi
Look 2. Photo by Fendi
Look 3. Photo by Fendi
Look 4. Photo by Fendi
Look 5. Photo by Fendi
Look 6. Photo by Fendi
Look 7. Photo by Fendi
Look 8. Photo by Fendi
Look 9. Photo by Fendi
Look 10. Photo by Fendi
Look 11. Photo by Fendi
Look 12. Photo by Fendi
Look 13. Photo by Fendi
Look 14. Photo by Fendi
Look 15. Photo by Fendi
Look 16. Photo by Fendi
Look 17. Photo by Fendi
Look 18. Photo by Fendi
Look 19. Photo by Fendi
Look 20. Photo by Fendi
Look 21. Photo by Fendi
Look 22. Photo by Fendi
Look 23. Photo by Fendi
Look 24. Photo by Fendi
Look 25. Photo by Fendi
Look 26. Photo by Fendi
Look 27. Photo by Fendi
Look 28. Photo by Fendi
Look 29. Photo by Fendi
Look 30. Photo by Fendi
Look 31. Photo by Fendi
Look 32. Photo by Fendi
Look 33. Photo by Fendi
Look 34. Photo by Fendi
Look 35. Photo by Fendi
Look 36. Photo by Fendi
Look 37. Photo by Fendi
Look 38. Photo by Fendi
Look 39. Photo by Fendi
Look 40. Photo by Fendi
Look 41. Photo by Fendi
Look 42. Photo by Fendi
Look 43. Photo by Fendi
Look 44. Photo by Fendi
Look 45. Photo by Fendi
Look 46. Photo by Fendi
Look 47. Photo by Fendi
Look 48. Photo by Fendi
Look 49. Photo by Fendi
Look 50. Photo by Fendi
Look 51. Photo by Fendi
Look 52. Photo by Fendi
Look 53. Photo by Fendi
Look 54. Photo by Fendi
Look 55. Photo by Fendi
Look 56. Photo by Fendi
Look 57. Photo by Fendi

Cool down with Fendi's latest SS23 Menswear collection with its cool blues and striking patterns to compliment the heat during the summer period.

fendi logo monogram visor hat blazer
Blue FF denim visor; Black wool blazer, both by FENDI
denim fendi shorts blazer
Black wool blazer; Printed beige denim shorts; Black cloud slides, all by FENDI
fendi silk printed top shorts and sandals
Multicolour silk shirt; Multicolour silk tshirt, shorts and sandals allby FENDI
fendi printed silk shirt
Multicolour silk shirt; Multicolour silk tshirt, both by FENDI
fendi denim jacket and shorts
Printed beige denim jacket; Beige cotton shirt; Printed beige denim shorts; Blue denim low-top match sneakers, all by FENDI
fendi denim acid wash jacekt and jeans
Acid wash denim jacket; Acid wash denim trousers; Blue denim low-tops match sneakers, all by FENDI
fendi denim trousers jeans
Blue denim trousers, by FENDI
fendi denim wool jacket jumper jeans
Navy blue blazer; Light blue cotton jumper; Blue wool bermuda trousers; Blue denim low-tops match, all by FENDI
fendi bucket bag menswear
Blue, Tomatillo and Clementine bucket charm bags, all by FENDI
fendi denim trousers jersey t-shirt
Black jersey t-shirt; Blue denim bermuda trousers; Clementine Peekbaoo IseeU petite; Black cloud slides, all by FENDI
fendi linen blue denim tshirt trousers
Multicolour FF linen shirt; Blue denim bermuda trousers, both by FENDI
fendi leather baguette bag
Blue leather and FF soft trunk Baguette bag, by FENDI
fendi basket bag
Blue basket Forty8 bag, by FENDI
fendi low top denim sneakers
Blue denim low-top match sneakers, by FENDI

From: Esquire ME

crosschevron-down