Get used to it: Hedi Slimane does what he wants and when he wants it. You've got to respect the artistic, image and creative director for his steely focus on a rather singular design aesthetic. The Celine Summer 2024 menswear collection, however, proves that for all the iconic things that Slimane has done, he can still craft fresh interpretations within his sphere of vision. And in this case, it's rather femme.
The standard Slimane look is still evident in the Summer of 2024. Impeccable menswear tailoring finished off with skinny ties are nods to his Dior Homme era, but this time, elevated with rhinestones that seem to give off their own luminescence.
There's a heavy focus on leather. Like trousers with a slight flare to the end as well as some of the collection's more standout moments. For example, a beautiful leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out that's inspired by 17th-century French court royalty. If that's not enough, more feminine nuances abound in the collection. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers take an exaggerated ribbon-like form that wraps around the waist. In one look, a new take on a leather biker jacket is designed with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seem to levitate away from the body.
Add embellishments that are Slimane signatures, and you have a line that's the most feminine. See it as stage-ready uniforms for some of rock and roll's greats like David Bowie and Mick Jagger.
There is reason why Loewe is one of the most anticipated shows each season. It has more to do with the out-of-the-box ideas that creative director Jonathan Anderson concocts each time rather than the celebrities that turn up for them (and trust us, there's been an increasing number of them). The fact that some of the celebrities would choose to wear the runway pieces days after they're presented is testament to the fresh and boundary-pushing silhouettes.
For Spring/Summer 2024, the key highlight of the collection comes in the form of very high-waisted trousers that reach, at least, an inch above the belly button. The result is a dramatically elongated bottom with the torso effectively cut to a 1:3 ratio. Even more dramatic are the ones drenched in rhinestones and when paired with equally bejewelled polo shirts, the look is anything but staid.
While the combination has been getting a lot of media attention due to the number of celebs that have worn variations of it, there's a lot more to the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. There are vests twisted into a giant knot, deliciously oversized outerwear, and even a top that's effectively just secured with a giant pin. Sure, you won't be seeing the latter out in the streets on a normal weekday but the idea that something as conceptual as that could still be somewhat desirable to a fashion-loving audience clamouring for new perspectives is pretty inspiring.
Anyone who appreciates knitwear knows that there are almost limitless possibilities in what can be crafted from yarns. Automatons are indeed available to spit out a piece of knitwear in as little time as possible. But the creation of intricate pieces is often done by hand and, as this season shows, results in truly stunning works of art.
Even at its simplest—as with a Gucci number in shades of blues and white—knit can have beautiful textures, adding depth to an exaggerated drop shoulder and a side-shoulder zip for unlimited styling capabilities. Bottega Veneta presents an array of knits that each display a different technique and skill. In one, the knitting is purposely twisted and warped to create a unique irregular pattern. In another, it presents itself as an abstract interpretation of the House's Intrecciato leather technique.
Alexander McQueen takes it up a few notches, at least in terms of visual appeal. While several knits employ some on-brand deconstruction, it's the crochet vests that are just stunning. Florals for Spring is groundbreaking when done through a three-dimensional crochet consisting of a collage of flora. Even in its more single-hued variation, the textures stand out in the best ways possible.
Chanel may have adopted tweed as an enduring icon of the house and in the process, feminised the material. But in actuality, tweed began in the masculine domain. Invented by Scottish farmers in the 18th century, tweed was a means of keeping warm during the harsh winters. Its characteristically rough-hewn texture is designed to be weather-resistant—locking in heat and wicking away water.
Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones reimagined tweed for its Summer 2024 collection. His penchant for merging the traditionally feminine codes of the Dior house with contemporary menswear is amped up with tweed woven into the emblematic Cannage motif. It's then used on everything from outerwear to cardigans and couture-level tailoring.
Jones did not attempt at all to masculinise the material. Instead, he employs tweed as an example of the Dior Men aesthetic that he's built where the unexpected combination of tradition and the contemporary is married with the rich history of the house.
The Summer 2024 ready-to-wear pieces aren't the only ones where tweed is used, and thankfully so. Bags—spot the complete tweed iteration that's a more luxurious take on the outdoor backpack—and shoes, like loafers and sneakers, make full use of tweed's function-meets-aesthetic traits. You wouldn't be caught dead in a full tweed look in the summer—and you shouldn't—but the individual pieces look good enough to bust out now and then for an elevated sense of style.
Anthony Vaccarello has decided that Spring/ Summer 2024 is the season for the man-cleavage. The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 menswear collection is replete with scoop-neck tops that highlight all the chest-pumping work you've been religiously focusing on at the gym. While Vaccarello's offerings may appear somewhat extreme (they're cut just inches away from a potential nip-slip) there's no denying that there's a certain level of sex appeal. Versace reckons so too with its silk tanks affording almost the same level of chest-baring proclivity.
Before you scoff at the design choice as simply something done by brands that are more fashion-forward than others, you'd be surprised to know that even Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are in on it too. The former stuck to a no-inner-under-suits look that crops up ever so often, while Emporio Armani embraced the chest with open shirting and waistcoats that are cut above the belly button.
Take this as the reverse crop top trend. Baring your chest is more forgiving than wearing a cropped top. It's much harder to achieve visible, three-dimensional abs than it is to get a decent defined chest. And the best thing is, you could get away with letting the chest breathe a little in public without drawing too much negative attention from wearing a cropped top.
There's some gender-equality debate to be had here for sure but at the end of the day, do what feels right for you. Trends come and go but style is everlasting—or something to that effect.
Read on for part one of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
When we first bore witness to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections slightly over six months ago—because, you know, fashion—it looked to be a very exciting time for menswear. It wasn't only for the unprecedented manner Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week Men's for his Louis Vuitton debut as creative director, but also for the strong proposals of what it means to be a man today.
Homogeneity takes a backseat to make way for a splicing of masculine ideals. There's more than enough room for a man to be himself, however he wants to. The diverse range seen throughout the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections echoes the embrace of men unafraid of masculine displays in atypical machismo fashion. From the updated signatures of Giorgio Armani to Loewe's experimental codes, the collections are not for the everyman but for every man.
That said, there's no reason to stick to one particular style too. The world contains multitudes—a multifaceted prism of the human race. Some days, you'd want to dress in sleek cuts peppered with soft nuances like from Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent. On other days, you'd feel like exuding a modern aristocrat courtesy of Dior Men. With choices aplenty, why settle for just one facet of your being?
It's funny to think that when we were younger, there was a strong desire to want to be older and bigger. And once we've reached the realities of adulthood, we often look back fondly at the relative carefree ease of our youth. We are not projecting but it does seem to be a constant narrative in fashion—drawing inspiration from childhood and youthful energy.
What's evident for Spring/Summer 2024 is the adoption of boyish proportions. Rejecting any sense of what the "perfect" fit is, brands like Gucci (still a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection) opt to channel this through a calculated drowning of the body with fabric. It's almost like wearing a piece from an older and much bigger figure, while others pair oversized tops with shorts and bermudas that barely graze the knees. The latter wouldn't look out of place in the skateboard scene but materialised with modern tailoring as exemplified by Valentino and Burberry. Hermès offers shorts that almost disappear under outerwear and knitwear, effectively creating its most daring menswear proposal yet.
If you intend to jump on the bandwagon, start with Zegna's more proportioned stylings consisting of oversized tops and outerwear with loose-fit bermudas. Those look more intentional than try-hard.
Pharrell Williams knows how to put on a show. The man is a multi-award-winning musician after all, with style chops to boot. Louis Vuitton, however, is a beast of its own and the pressure to deliver as creative director of its men's universe is certainly significant, to say the least. Williams' debut, while a spectacle, was also a showcase of his knowledge of image-making.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is rife with elements even the most casual follower of Williams would be familiar with. And that's because one can imagine Williams wearing almost every look, down to the pearl accessories. It's the short suits and coordinates, the tasteful use of jewellery and accessories (and at times a merging of both) as well as the sharp tailoring—everything feels very Williams.
That the collection looks like it exited Williams' personal wardrobe would've been an issue if not for the way he incorporated Louis Vuitton signatures. The Damier is reinvigorated with a camouflage treatment and in some instances, decorated with his penchant for pearls. The LV Monogram gets significant real estate throughout the collection (what "quiet luxury"?) on the reworked bags that are made with a softer and more pliable construction.
There's also a continuation of the legacy that the late Virgil Abloh set as a precedent during his time as creative director. The casting is diverse—ethnicity, body size, age and gender—and the collection feels like it could be worn by just about anyone from any part of the world. If anything, for that alone, Williams' debut is every bit the success that Louis Vuitton was banking on.
...when you have a bag that's more comfortable to the touch. Williams may have been on to something when he switched up the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy to be less of a structured bag. The reimagined Speedy P9 is made with naturally supple-grained calfskin and completely lined with lambskin leather. The effect is a buttery soft feel that responds to every touch and is comfortable enough to hug as a clutch.
The Speedy P9 isn't the only big and soft carrier of the season. Even within the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, the more traditionally constructed Speedy 50s offer a similar size-and-feel factor. At Prada, leather travel and tote bags are supersized and with such a supple composition that they're carried on the runway as though they're designed strapless.
Perhaps the most outrageous of them all is Bottega Veneta's thoroughly oversized drawstring duffel. It stands as tall as half a typical human male model. It's decadently crafted out of exotic skin and for obvious reasons, you'd probably never want to let go of this one.
This may perhaps be the new luxury fashion version of the much-maligned Crocs—you either hate it or love it. Among Burberry's offering of footwear for its Summer 2024 collection come slides that are part mules and part loafers.
Look, we get it; this is probably not for everyone but hear us out. Each pair is embellished with crystals and made of rubber, so you know that they're going to be comfortable and perfect for the tropical climate. The uppers are also perforated
with a detachable Equestrian Knight Design charm. Position it wherever you want for an offbeat look.
It actually does look great with a pair of socks in the same colour family. Although we might lose the charm for a more streamlined aesthetic. It's one of those things that you wouldn't immediately gravitate towards but give it a few wears and this is one pair you'd be glad to have in your collection. But like everything else thus far this season, you do you.
The idea of utility has always been prevalent in menswear. While its use is seen in pieces made primarily for the outdoors, a hybridisation has been happening of late, thanks in part to streetwear's influence. The treatment however, has often been rugged and hardy with a clear leaning to its roots, but for Spring/Summer 2024 we're seeing a shift.
While not exactly crafted from the most precious of materials, the season's take on utilitarian fashion is softer in make while still retaining its functional aspect. Givenchy, for example, reduced the number of pockets on its gilet to two main zipped compartments that make up almost half of the entire piece of clothing. It's also made from a lightweight nylon material for easier wear during the summer months.
Similarly, Berluti's lightweight technical-inspired blazer adopts the weather-resistant capabilities of nylon. Add to it, the nifty patch pockets finished with reinforced seams and chest zipped slots that are beautifully topped with leather pull tabs. They're key design elements that are also seen in a swathe of the collection's outerwear, including on a suede bomber.
If Givenchy's gilet isn't up to task to meet your OCD tendencies, Prada's option offers the kind of organised functionality you'd expect from a military-grade gilet. Except it's rendered in a hue that's more fashion-forward than forest-friendly. For those who prefer their utilitarian pieces in the thinnest fabric possible, Emporio Armani's translucent proposals make for stellar investments. Just keep in mind to wear something under though.
Read on for part two of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
Tech nerds, how are we feeling about 2024? Are y'all freaking out about all the new things and dohickeys that are getting released at CES? Sorry if that sounded like I'm talking down on CES, it wasn't meant to be. However, I'm just a lowly tech editor who is a little bit sick of everything that everyone seems to be freaking out about. We're at a point where there's so much tech that most of the things we hype up are, honestly... not that great.
We've got tech in our hands, tech over our eyes, tech in our homes, tech on our kitchen counters, and tech in our bedroom. Even our paper notebooks are tech-enabled. Hell, we're using tech to wake us up instead of the sun. So where is any one person meant to keep up with all the tech that actually matters? Right here.
I've kept an eye on the early-year releases, and I've kept tabs on what is actually moving the needle for me. Is the new tactile iPhone keyboard from Clicks moving the needle for me? Not really. Is the Apple Vision Pro moving the needle for me? Yes, absolutely. What I'm trying to say is that this isn't a list of little releases. This is where Esquire dot com is keeping track of the biggest, most groundbreaking tech of 2024—everything you should buy or keep an eye on in the future. It's still early doors, so there's a lot of preorders and speculation. But, as the year rolls on, we'll keep this list updated with all the best new tech of 2024.
We got a sneak peak at Apple's biggest innovation in a long time last year. Officially launching on 2 February, this seems to be Apple's next big bet. The focus is less on making a toy and more on making a new type of personal computer. The powers that be in Cupertino obviously see this as a desktop and laptop replacement. We'll see how well they deliver.
Ever looked at your TV and wish that you could, see through it? Me either. But once I saw LG's new entertainment play, I was... slightly more convinced. Move it around (it's wireless) and place it in direct sunlight or in front of a mirror (no glare). It's a weird bet, but I can definitely see it growing on me. LG's transparent OLED TV is scheduled to hit the market in 2024.
Per usual, there's going to be a new iPhone. Whether or not it'll be a big jump from the 15 Pro remains to be seen. The iPhone 15 Pro had a lot of initial fanfare (from myself included), but its stumbled out of the gate a little bit. The biggest innovation has been the titanium build. We'll see where Apple goes this year.
For my money, Samsung is the top Apple competitor, with a much deeper catalog than the Googles or Motorolas of the world and a great suite of foldables. No disrespect to those two, but Samsung does so much it makes for a lovely little ecosystem. As there is every year, there's going to be some fort of upgrade on Samsung's flagship smartphone. Will it be enough to leapfrog Apple? Not in America. But, it could be a big year for Samsung.
Since being the first big company to do the whole VR thing, Meta has sent out a bunch of flops. The Meta Quest 2 was just a novelty gaming device. The newer Quest 3 and Quest Pro aren't anything to write home about either. But, Meta has confirmed plans for a new, more affordable VR headset in 2024. We'll see if it actually catches on this time around.
Another big rumor in Apple world is that there might be a foldable iPad on the horizon. If it happens, it would be the company's first foray into the foldable market and surely a dress rehearsal for a foldable iPhone. Still, it's a massive if. Don't hold out for this one.
At CES 2024, Samsung gave us an update on one of its best weird little projects. Ballie, an R2-D2 type personal assistant was introduced at CES 2020. This time around, Samsung made the little guy bigger and gave him a projector.
Wait, so what is this thing?
Sorry. "Alexa on wheels," is how I would describe Ballie. He'll be able to follow you around, tell you the weather, answer phone calls, and project onto whatever flat surface you can find. Don't hold out hope though. This is more of a speculative project from Samsung. I wouldn't expect to see it on the market in 2024.
Originally published on Esquire US
It’s amusing to read the comments on Gucci’s Instagram posts of new creative director Sabato de Sarno’s debut collection. People seem to fall into two camps: on one side are those who welcome the “return to elegance” with a comment going as far as calling the previous iteration of Gucci “a bad taste freak show”, while the other compares the current collection to that of a fast fashion brand and proclaims it “boring”.
It’s expected, of course. You can’t please everyone. Out of curiosity, I tried searching for Gucci’s posts of former creative director Alessandro Michele’s first collection, but all traces of the old Gucci appear to have been scrubbed from the feed. Anyway, I’m just certain that the reactions back then were just as divided.
It’s funny because, as someone in the industry, I find that we’re quite detached from real-life consumer sentiments. Personally, I loved Michele’s maximalist Gucci. I found it creative, vibrant and presented a luxury fashion aesthetic that was different from its competitors. And evidently, it was an aesthetic that worked for a significant period until consumer fatigue set in—something that I truly didn’t experience.
But I get it. Consumer trends tend to be predictable and are linked to a number of socio-economic factors. There’s no denying that after a period of maximalist fashion, consumers are understandably tired of all the ostentatious more-is-more aesthetic, especially given that their personal economic situations may not be reflective of that aesthetic and thus, completely not relatable.
However, I wouldn’t go as far as to say that we’re living in an era of “quiet luxury”. Because the reality is (and this may sound elitist), if you’re adopting a quiet luxury aesthetic with anything other than brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli and The Row, you’re not actually doing it right, I’m sorry to say. Anything else is minimalism; quiet luxury refers to more than mere simple, elevated cuts.
Change is constant and where fashion is concerned, it’s almost destined to move on to something on the other end of the spectrum once a trend cycle reaches the end. Although it is quite an oxymoron to say that maximalist fashion started getting stale, the complete opposite is a breath of fresh air from the visual assault of logos, prints, embellishments and the like.
What we are currently experiencing can be compared to the rise of minimalist fashion circa 2009, when brands like Céline (the old, Phoebe Philo-led one), Calvin Klein and Jil Sander were constant points of references for impeccable style. They were stunningly clean, cut-focused and had little need for unnecessary flourishes, but ultimately suffered the fate of being rather easy to replicate using more affordable alternatives, without looking like a poorer version of the original. Now, attempt that with maximalist fashion and one runs the risk of looking downright tacky.
Of course, that’s not to say that there’s no space for maximalist fashion now—that would quickly erase the existence of quite a number of fashion brands across different categories. Brands whose DNA is maximalist would naturally tone down the visual language slightly or offer pieces that are more in line with current consumer tastes in order to not be alienated. But at the same time, not neglecting their individual identity.
We are already seeing the beginnings of neo-maximalism on the Spring/Summer 2024 runways.
Italian fashion house Versace is unequivocally maximalist through and through. From gilded trims to its signature Barocco print, Versace’s oeuvre consists of a brilliantly excessive decadence that it has been famous for for decades. But for its Spring/Summer 2024 runway show, artistic director Donatella Versace showcased a collection that was a refreshing surprise. Clean lines took precedence over exaggerated silhouettes, and a more curated colour palette was favoured over brash combinations of bold colours. And yet, the Versace-ness remained as prints were rendered in monochromatic treatments that seemed to merge with their pastel base, and Barocco trims (albeit toned down) were done in white so as not to draw too much focus from the cut and make of the garments.
Similarly at Dolce&Gabbana: nary a single logo was seen anywhere throughout the 76-strong Spring/Summer 2024 menswear looks. It was a gradation of colours from black to taupe and then back to black with each look completely monochromatic from head to toe. True to the brand’s DNA, embellishments were still present in a number of looks, but done with restraint. Instead of combining multiple types of embellishments together, there was a more concerted effort to focus on a single type and done in one single hue—often in the same colour family as the rest of the outfit.
Now that that is sorted out, is maximalism done for now? Well, not quite. Homogeneity isn’t aninherently human trait. Think about it, the rise and existence of subcultures such as punks, mods and grunge, were all a result of wanting to break away from the mainstream. Even with minimalism gaining traction, there will still be individuals and fashion brands that choose to stick to their individual maximalist styles.
The thing about maximalism is that it’s often thought of as being more creative and more interesting as compared to minimalism. That’s not to say that minimalism is, inevitably, boring—it takes superior technical craft and skill to create something cuttingly simple. There is just a lot more to see on the surface with maximalist fashion. It’s something that we can never truly get tired of. We may require some respite after a while but we’ll always come back to awe-inspiring expressions of creativity from the very first glance.
Before reading this second part of our deep dive into the Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear trends, read part one.
Forget about the former US President Barack Obama tan suit controversy—it was, quite honestly, no big deal and all partisan political agenda. Sure, the tan suit on a president known for wearing dark navies and blacks was a stark departure from the usual, but did it warrant a huge reaction from everyone from fashion critics to political pundits?
Let that not steer you away from tan suits. When done right (Obama’s was a touch big for his frame), it’s the perfect suiting option that traipses the line between formal and casual. Berluti’s classic fit, for example, is the kind that you’d want to wear with a turtleneck, or even a basic tank as exemplified by Louis Vuitton’s more beige-like option.
Fashion-forward individuals should look to Dior Men’s voluminous version that’s fitted with utilitarian arm warmers done in the same colour and material. and still exudes elegance with the perfectly constructed cut. Kenzo too follows the same thought process with a structured tan suit blazer paired with wide-legged trousers. The former is also cut boxy with lapels that mimic the detail of a traditional yukata.
Not many patterns out there denote the kind of regal elegance that the Prince of Wales check alludes to. Its entire history is rich with ties to royalty.
Just like the tan suit, the Prince of Wales check offers respite from the usual slate of suiting fabrics and colours. Sure, we’re hardly a suit-wearing society any more but why settle for the norm when you feel the need to bust one out?
While Celine’s iteration leaves the flourishes to a minimum, the fit is true to Hedi Slimane with a slim profile and strong shoulders. There’s no denying the rock-and-roll glamour, especially with how it’s styled—a fine example of how versatile the Prince of Wales check can be.
Gucci offers a modern take with transformable details that turn trousers into berms as well as shortened sleeves. In a similar vein of constructed deconstruction, Balenciaga’s Prince of Wales check coat is trimmed with the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection’s leitmotif of trousers as outerwear.
It’s Louis Vuitton that completely turns the pattern on its head. Like haphazard puzzle pieces, the Prince of Wales check has been broken down into separate pieces before reconstructed and left with raw edges intact. It’s manic but quite stunning to look at all the same.
There has been no shortage of fashion collaborations year after year. They’re so widespread now that it’s difficult to cut through the noise and stand out. Hence when a brand that rarely collaborates with another decides to do so, it’s likely to be noteworthy.
Zegna’s last big collaboration was also its first. It was an exceptionally well done effort with Fear of God that saw both brands’ aesthetics melded into one. Its latest collaboration is also with another Los Angeles-based brand, The Elder Statesman.
Unlike the Fear of God collaboration, Zegna x The Elder Statesman is part of Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere—a collection focusing on cashmere that the brand is aiming to be fully traceable by 2024. The entire collection is crafted from Oasis Cashmere but rendered in bold colours and prints that The Elder Statesman is known for. If you’ve been a follower of Zegna, you'll know artistic director Alessandro Sartori tends to favour a more monochromatic palette. This collaboration updates the tailored ease of Zegna with colours that one wouldn’t normally associate with the brand. Yet at the same time, it offers the same level of craftsmanship the brand is known for. And that, ladies and gents, is what a great collaboration is about.
Remember that episode of Friends—aptly named “The One with Joey’s Bag”—where Joey decided that a bag from Bloomingdale’s was befitting of his new style conceived by Rachel? “It is odd how a women's purse looks good on me, a man,” he opined. Alas, that feeling didn’t last all that long as people around him saw the leather tote bag as nothing more than feminine. Oh, the ’90s were such a different time.
Fast forward about 24 years later, the lines have been further blurred on what exactly constitutes a “women’s purse”. The tote bag that Joey sported is the norm by today’s standards. For Autumn/Winter 2023, the man-purse makes a return in shapes that recall the more typically feminine shoulder bag.
The Fendi Baguette bag may have been male-coded since the Autumn/Winter 2019 menswear collection, but its latest iterations stay close to the original. The functionality of this season’s Baguette for men are amped up with additional zipper details, refreshed with an oblong silhouette that remains true to the original. It’s even coupled with a short top handle meant to be worn on the shoulder.
Similar styles can be seen by brands the likes of Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent as well as Tod’s. Versace’s version comes in the form of a camera bag, while Gucci expands its repertoire of man-purses with with a pliable Dionysus messenger bag and a top-handle bamboo creation.
Beyond the stellar storytelling, blockbuster hits such as The Bear, Succession and Christopher Nolan’s latest hit Oppenheimer, help to timestamp where we’re currently at with regard to men’s fashion. And if you’ve yet to delve into their respective worlds (we highly recommend it, by the way) the consensus is that we’re currently obsessed with the basics.
It’s a telling shift when the cut and make of a Merz B Schwanen white tee becomes almost as newsworthy as The Bear’s critically acclaimed storyline. Or how the if-you-know-you-know old money aesthetic in Succession has spawned articles alongside TikTok content breaking down what “quiet luxury” is as a trend. We’re moving away from monograms and in-your-face logos, with an appreciation of the craft behind each piece becoming key.
The Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear collections are driving down on the idea of elevated basics. Though the silhouettes are familiar (and at times, simplified), these new-old forms recall a time when fashion ingenuity was subtle and flourishes were done with intention. But if you think that means there are hardly any fresh ideas, think again.
Burberry’s overhaul begins with Autumn/Winter 2023. Under the stewardship of chief creative officer Daniel Lee (of #newbottega fame), gone are the uncharacteristically dark and punk-ish looks that were favoured by predecessor Riccardo Tisci.
Lee’s intention was to bring Burberry back to its British roots. He even cited familial connections to the brand’s Castleford outpost where its iconic trench coats are manufactured—family members on his mother’s side had worked in factories supplying to Burberry, he says in a Vogue interview.
The immediate change is seen in the emblematic Burberry check that’s not only rendered in bold colours, but also shifted in perspective and appear larger than ever on ready-to-wear. The brand’s Equestrian Knight Design—a crowd-sourced logo as a result of a public competition in 1901—has been revived and refreshed, adding to the collection’s number of Brit-related graphics. An English rose print blooms completely on softened aviator jackets and workwear-inspired pieces, while mallards appear as a repeated motif seemingly to break away from the relatively serious palette of the collection.
What about the Burberry trench coats? They continue to live on of course, but Lee’s versions are cut oversized and supplemented with faux fur lapels. And if remotely possible, they look more luxurious in this new interpretation.
It makes sense given that we’re approaching the season when temperatures dip—at least for countries farther up north of the equator—the menswear collections are rife with pieces meant to keep us warm. Instead of piling on outerwear, how about opting for pieces that have been lengthened?
First up is Bottega Veneta where creative director Matthieu Blazy plays plenty with proportions and trompe l’œil effects. A striped shirt is cut decidedly oversized with the hem reaching mid-calf, but what’s even more impressive is the fact that it’s not made of cotton. The shirt is actually leather that’s been fashioned to appear like a cotton shirt, which also means that it’ll keep one a whole lot warmer. There’s also a jumper in a separate look that reaches all the way to the ankles, complete with ribbed hem.
If you’re up for a more distressed option to Bottega Veneta’s long jumper, Coach’s striped iteration features an intarsia Superman motif that’s further enhanced by an overall destroyed aesthetic. Sure, this probably wouldn’t keep you warm but does it really matter when it’s supposed to be a standout piece?
For something more put together, Prada’s suede tunics are in line with its constant exploration of uniforms. They’re minimally designed with a flap breast pocket trimmed with a beautiful patina. Like most Prada designs, they can be cuttingly clinical but if minimalism is your thing, this will be one to cherish.
Is the tie truly dead? Not if Valentino has anything to say about it. The Italian fashion house conceptualised an entire collection dedicated to the black tie and named it, well, “Black Tie”. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli shifts the attention of black tie as part of formal dress to that of a style staple that works for just about any setting.
There’s nary a single formal suit look throughout the entire collection. When suits were employed together with a slim tie—an element that’s visible on each and every look—they’re hardly traditional black tie-ready. Instead, suit blazers are paired with short shorts and Rockstud Chelsea boots for outfits that certainly wouldn’t fly in a traditional black tie setting.
From an artfully tailored boiler suit matched with a bold red shirt, to a voluminous pea coat worn over a pastel green shirt in the same tone as a pair of creepers, each look makes a strong case for the tie as simply another accessory to consider—and without the stuffy undertone that it’s been associated with.
Taking the co-opting of women-centric fashion a step further, we’re seeing an increasingly intentional softness to the menswear collections this season. The designs are undoubtedly more fluid à la Zegna and Dior Men where constructions of tailoring have softened over the years. But what’s more apparent for Autumn/Winter 2023 is the influence of womenswear.
Dolce&Gabbana for example, included corsetry for a number of its menswear looks. They’re styled over silk shirts in tone-on-tone monochromatic colours, accentuating the waist. In some ways, they do resemble cummerbunds albeit taking more significant real estate on the body.
But what’s more severe in execution is Fendi’s slew of one-shouldered tops. If creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection saw her cropping tops and blazers, the current collection has her slashing diagonally to create toga-inspired knit tops and shirting that expose skin. Alexander McQueen’s tailoring-heavy collection also features flashes of skin through careful deconstruction. In one look, a suit blazer is slashed into half with the bottom-half kept buttoned to instantly create a fit-and-flare silhouette; in another, the back panel of a blazer is cut up and replaced with floral embroidery for maximum visual impact.
At Saint Laurent—easily one of the highlights of the season—the lines between the House’s menswear and womenswear are blurred. While the latter have always been informed by menswear, this time around, Saint Laurent’s menswear tap on the exceptional fluidity of the women’s universe. The proportions are lengthened and exaggerated with massive bow details, beautiful draping as well as hooded creations that are borrowed from previous womenswear collections. Clothes are clothes are clothes, after all.
The cardigan was an intrinsic part of Mister Rogers of Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood fame, whose zipped, cable-knit variations became a ritualistic introduction to each episode. The transition from blazer to cardigan signalled a dressing down that immediately brings viewers closer, almost to a more intimate level of comfort. Then there’s Kurt Cobain’s penchant for cardigans. They’re worn over graphic tees and patterned shirts, and are a reflection of grunge’s anti-establishment sensibilities.
The contrast between the two is stark and exemplifies the versatility of the cardigan beyond functionality. We hardly consider wearing cardigans, but that’s about to change this season as luxury fashion brands offer options that are hard to ignore.
Dior Men’s pearl-embroidered iteration is one you’d easily want to pair with tailored separates, while Zegna’s minimalist cardigans designed with hidden buttons and crafted thin are perfect for all-year layering.
When they’re made plush and with considerable weight such as the ones by Ferragamo and Loewe (beautifully crafted with drop shoulders), treat the cardigan as a knit shirt by wearing one on its own. Or like Celine’s devil-may-care attitude, an embellished cardigan paired with quintessential rocker accessories will also be the way to embrace the humble knitwear once again, and in your own stylistic leanings.
