Now in his sixth year at the Maison, artistic director Kim Jones has built a reputation for elevating Dior's menswear, seamlessly blending street style elements with the house's couture history. For the Dior Men Summer 2024 collection, Jones paid tribute to various Dior predecessors and eras, integrating their influences with a contemporary design language. Constantly challenging the notions of tradition and modernity, there's no doubt that the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will be one that brings to the fore forgotten or lesser known elements of Dior's history.
For confirmation of what the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 21 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time
Longtime artistic director of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian, has crafted such a signature look for the House's menswear collections that its Spring/Summer 2025 outing will certainly be one to anticipate. Hermès has already teased a look—a knit shirt with a dip-dye effect in a blue that reflects the sea. It does seem as though that could be the reference point for Nichanian's latest collection, or at the very least, just one element of it.
For confirmation of what the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time
Milan Fashion Week Men's will officially draw to a close with Zegna and its Spring/Summer 2025 runway show. As per a couple of seasons now, the Italian brand will be staging an Oasi Lino-centric collection, making use of its traceable linen as the centrepiece.
If the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show back in January is anything to go by, Zegna could potentially be using linen or flax as part of the set design and creating quite a spectacle in the process. The show is scheduled to take place in an event space away from the city centre, instead of out in the open as with the Spring/Summer 2024 show.
For confirmation of what the Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.
What: Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Monday, 17 June 2024 at 10pm Singapore time
Four years into this unprecedented partnership between Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, and there are seemingly no signs of stopping the duo from creating directional collections season after season. The Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will be their eighth menswear collection together, which has seen a combination of Mrs Prada's prints and studied eccentricities with Simons' penchant for outerwear and oversized aesthetics.
But more than mere fusion of styles, the collections thus far have also been a deep dive into the Prada archives. We've seen prints being revived and remixed, and odes to shows of the past adapted into more contemporary contexts. And there's little reason to doubt that we'll be seeing more of those for this upcoming collection.
For confirmation of what the Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.
What: Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Sunday, 16 June 2024 at 8pm Singapore time
When we first bore witness to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections slightly over six months ago—because, you know, fashion—it looked to be a very exciting time for menswear. It wasn't only for the unprecedented manner Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week Men's for his Louis Vuitton debut as creative director, but also for the strong proposals of what it means to be a man today.
Homogeneity takes a backseat to make way for a splicing of masculine ideals. There's more than enough room for a man to be himself, however he wants to. The diverse range seen throughout the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections echoes the embrace of men unafraid of masculine displays in atypical machismo fashion. From the updated signatures of Giorgio Armani to Loewe's experimental codes, the collections are not for the everyman but for every man.
That said, there's no reason to stick to one particular style too. The world contains multitudes—a multifaceted prism of the human race. Some days, you'd want to dress in sleek cuts peppered with soft nuances like from Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent. On other days, you'd feel like exuding a modern aristocrat courtesy of Dior Men. With choices aplenty, why settle for just one facet of your being?
It's funny to think that when we were younger, there was a strong desire to want to be older and bigger. And once we've reached the realities of adulthood, we often look back fondly at the relative carefree ease of our youth. We are not projecting but it does seem to be a constant narrative in fashion—drawing inspiration from childhood and youthful energy.
What's evident for Spring/Summer 2024 is the adoption of boyish proportions. Rejecting any sense of what the "perfect" fit is, brands like Gucci (still a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection) opt to channel this through a calculated drowning of the body with fabric. It's almost like wearing a piece from an older and much bigger figure, while others pair oversized tops with shorts and bermudas that barely graze the knees. The latter wouldn't look out of place in the skateboard scene but materialised with modern tailoring as exemplified by Valentino and Burberry. Hermès offers shorts that almost disappear under outerwear and knitwear, effectively creating its most daring menswear proposal yet.
If you intend to jump on the bandwagon, start with Zegna's more proportioned stylings consisting of oversized tops and outerwear with loose-fit bermudas. Those look more intentional than try-hard.
Pharrell Williams knows how to put on a show. The man is a multi-award-winning musician after all, with style chops to boot. Louis Vuitton, however, is a beast of its own and the pressure to deliver as creative director of its men's universe is certainly significant, to say the least. Williams' debut, while a spectacle, was also a showcase of his knowledge of image-making.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is rife with elements even the most casual follower of Williams would be familiar with. And that's because one can imagine Williams wearing almost every look, down to the pearl accessories. It's the short suits and coordinates, the tasteful use of jewellery and accessories (and at times a merging of both) as well as the sharp tailoring—everything feels very Williams.
That the collection looks like it exited Williams' personal wardrobe would've been an issue if not for the way he incorporated Louis Vuitton signatures. The Damier is reinvigorated with a camouflage treatment and in some instances, decorated with his penchant for pearls. The LV Monogram gets significant real estate throughout the collection (what "quiet luxury"?) on the reworked bags that are made with a softer and more pliable construction.
There's also a continuation of the legacy that the late Virgil Abloh set as a precedent during his time as creative director. The casting is diverse—ethnicity, body size, age and gender—and the collection feels like it could be worn by just about anyone from any part of the world. If anything, for that alone, Williams' debut is every bit the success that Louis Vuitton was banking on.
...when you have a bag that's more comfortable to the touch. Williams may have been on to something when he switched up the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy to be less of a structured bag. The reimagined Speedy P9 is made with naturally supple-grained calfskin and completely lined with lambskin leather. The effect is a buttery soft feel that responds to every touch and is comfortable enough to hug as a clutch.
The Speedy P9 isn't the only big and soft carrier of the season. Even within the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, the more traditionally constructed Speedy 50s offer a similar size-and-feel factor. At Prada, leather travel and tote bags are supersized and with such a supple composition that they're carried on the runway as though they're designed strapless.
Perhaps the most outrageous of them all is Bottega Veneta's thoroughly oversized drawstring duffel. It stands as tall as half a typical human male model. It's decadently crafted out of exotic skin and for obvious reasons, you'd probably never want to let go of this one.
This may perhaps be the new luxury fashion version of the much-maligned Crocs—you either hate it or love it. Among Burberry's offering of footwear for its Summer 2024 collection come slides that are part mules and part loafers.
Look, we get it; this is probably not for everyone but hear us out. Each pair is embellished with crystals and made of rubber, so you know that they're going to be comfortable and perfect for the tropical climate. The uppers are also perforated
with a detachable Equestrian Knight Design charm. Position it wherever you want for an offbeat look.
It actually does look great with a pair of socks in the same colour family. Although we might lose the charm for a more streamlined aesthetic. It's one of those things that you wouldn't immediately gravitate towards but give it a few wears and this is one pair you'd be glad to have in your collection. But like everything else thus far this season, you do you.
The idea of utility has always been prevalent in menswear. While its use is seen in pieces made primarily for the outdoors, a hybridisation has been happening of late, thanks in part to streetwear's influence. The treatment however, has often been rugged and hardy with a clear leaning to its roots, but for Spring/Summer 2024 we're seeing a shift.
While not exactly crafted from the most precious of materials, the season's take on utilitarian fashion is softer in make while still retaining its functional aspect. Givenchy, for example, reduced the number of pockets on its gilet to two main zipped compartments that make up almost half of the entire piece of clothing. It's also made from a lightweight nylon material for easier wear during the summer months.
Similarly, Berluti's lightweight technical-inspired blazer adopts the weather-resistant capabilities of nylon. Add to it, the nifty patch pockets finished with reinforced seams and chest zipped slots that are beautifully topped with leather pull tabs. They're key design elements that are also seen in a swathe of the collection's outerwear, including on a suede bomber.
If Givenchy's gilet isn't up to task to meet your OCD tendencies, Prada's option offers the kind of organised functionality you'd expect from a military-grade gilet. Except it's rendered in a hue that's more fashion-forward than forest-friendly. For those who prefer their utilitarian pieces in the thinnest fabric possible, Emporio Armani's translucent proposals make for stellar investments. Just keep in mind to wear something under though.
Read on for part two of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
Givenchy is currently in transition. After the departure of former artistic director Matthew M Williams, the storied luxury fashion house is still left without a creative head. Its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection presented during Paris Fashion Week Men's in January this year, was designed in-house and showcased salon-style at the House's headquarters.
Williams officially left Givenchy on 1 January 2024 after three years, with his last efforts for the House being its Pre-Autumn 2024 womenswear and menswear collections. But his final menswear runway show was for the Spring/Summer 2024 season with the collection currently available in boutiques.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection draws on the study of elegance and sartorialism with school uniforms as a starting point. It's a stylistic dialogue between traditional masculine code of dress and the classic wardrobe of a gentlemen. Williams too applied some of his own experiences growing up with fashion through his penchant for streetwear-inspired stylings evident in the collection's more utilitarian pieces.
At the gallery below, take a look at some of the backstage moments from the show, lensed by Adam Katz Sinding.
After two show-stopping shows in succession—a debut on one of Paris' famous brides and a takeover of a Hong Kong landmark—creative director Pharrell Williams is readying his third outing for Louis Vuitton.
As one would imagine, details are somewhat scant at the moment. All that we know thus far is the location of the show in Paris (it's still under embargo but we know) and the teaser of Virginia being a point of reference. Williams was born in Virginia Beach, Virginia and it's clear that he'd probably include inspirations from his home state or even perhaps memories from his childhood. How that will eventually pan out, is anybody's guess.
But after a debut that saw such a strong support from the Black entertainment community—Beyoncé and Rihanna at the same event—we're left guessing how Williams is going to top the theatrics this time around. And most importantly, what new, reimagined Louis Vuitton icons will be presented.
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Wednesday, 17 January 2024 at 3am Singapore time
The collaboration continues with Prada as co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are set to present their seventh menswear collection together. And after revealing a pretty star-studded Spring/Summer 2024 campaign too.
As with every Prada runway show, clues to what the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection could look like is vague at best. The physical invite to the show—a rather massive one at that—is a folio pictured with a natural landscape and contains a single Prada tie. Tagged to it is a card that says that the tie's authentication certificate has been uploaded on the Aura Blockchain Consortium platform—founded by Prada together with LVMH and Cartier in 2021. Further teasers include similar portrayals of natural landscapes splashed on desktop screens in an office setting.
Perhaps, what we'll be witnessing is an evolution of officewear codes (Prada does have a thing for uniforms) imbued with semblances of digital applications. The staging for Spring/Summer 2024 included slime; could this season's showspace see digital renderings of nature in surreal ways?
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week.
What: Prada Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Sunday, 14 January at 9pm Singapore time
Louis Vuitton men's creative director Pharrell Williams certainly knows how to make waves. After a show-stopping debut during June's Paris Fashion Week Men's, Williams is bringing the maison's Pre-Autumn 2024 collection to Hong Kong.
The staging of a Louis Vuitton menswear pre-collection runway show has never been done before. The maison typically opts for a lookbook release (pre-collections tend to be more commercial in aesthetic as compared to main runway collections) instead of making it an event like what its womenswear division does. There's no denying that with Williams' debut garnering the kind of reach brands clamour for—Louis Vuitton reported over one billion views across its owned platforms as well as its press accounts—the maison is hoping to replicate a similar moment once again.
The Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Autumn 2024 runway show will also mark the first time that the maison stages a show in Hong Kong. The show will see the takeover of the famed Avenue of Stars as well as the neighbouring K11 MUSEA—both iconic landmarks of the city.
What could the collection look like? Well, that remains to be seen. But if the teaser is anything to go by, we're expecting to see semblances of cruise-appropriate designs interspersed with Williams' inimitable sense of style. Or perhaps sailor-esque fits embellished with pearls.
What: Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Autumn 2024 runway show
Where: Hong Kong
When: Thursday, 30 November 2023 at 8pm Singapore time
If I had to pick a clear standout from Milan for the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear season (with a smattering of menswear in between), it would have to go to Bottega Veneta.
Creative director Matthieu Blazy has managed to create such a niche look for the Italian brand in terms of its ready-to-wear offerings—without the need for overt branding or the use of a singular colour—more than any of his predecessors have done before. The bags and accessories, of course, continue to utilise Bottega Veneta's signature Intrecciato techniques (as they should) but Blazy's emphasis on craft and techniques has offered a distinct point-of-view that has made his ready-to-wear pieces identifiable as Bottega Veneta creations.
"There is a need to reconnect to a primal world of animals, minerals, and plants. It’s like collecting seashells—beautiful, meaningful or meaningless. It’s linked to the beauty of small marvels and natural wonders. It’s embracing something freeform: these are clothes without codes," Blazy says in the collection notes.
For the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection, Blazy once again took us on a journey—one that crossed oceans and continents. Craft was the central connecting thread as culture-specific influences the world over were referenced and mashed together to create pieces that were (mostly) wearable and imbued with extreme technicalities. Yes, this meant that visually, the collection may not have appeared cohesive due to the many different techniques, colours and silhouettes that were employed throughout. The cohesiveness came through conceptually with summer- and beach-inspired ideas of craft apparent in a number of looks.
The fit: There's no singular look to the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection. It was a transition of different moments in time and space—as though Blazy meant to showcase the Bottega Veneta man as one who's worldly and of many different leanings. The show opened with a knit swimwear look that looked as though it was stripped from the '20s (and perhaps one of the few menswear looks that felt wearable for the warmer climes). Although it's difficult to decipher accurately based on images and the runway video alone, I'm fairly certain that Blazy showed a number of his brilliant leather trompe l'œil looks where seemingly everyday pieces were actually crafted from leathers, and paired with leather ties.
What's technically impressive were the knit looks this season. Blazy had shown off a number of knit looks in the past few collections but they seemed to be amped up for Summer 2024 with even more flourishes and done in greater scale. Chunky jumpers and tanks were beautiful, crafted to perfection in complicated patterns but without a homespun quality. These were intended to look high-quality and luxurious—done by hand, yes, but with the precision of skilled, experienced craftsmen.
The details: Things got bigger in the bags department. The Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 bags were supersized such that they'd make pretty decent travelling companions. A massive duffle bag in croc (look 7) was half the size of the model that carried it, while the Sardines in Intrecciato took on their biggest iteration yet with the metallic handle offering an even better grip thanks to the upsized design.
Three exceptional looks: Look 11 and its deliciously chunky knit that enveloped almost the entirety of the ensemble under it; look 53's coordinated look consisting of a shirt and trousers with faggoting and jagged hems; and look 41's updated proposal of a tank-and-trouser fit.
The takeaway: I don't know who's rich enough to purchase Bottega Veneta ready-to-wear, but you'd definitely recognise the look right off the bat.
View the full Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
Paris Fashion Week Men's spring/summer 2024 is shaping up to be quite a season. Pharrell Williams' debut for Louis Vuitton may be the most anticipated show, but Loewe's consistent ability to capture attention and fresh ideas—especially in the past couple of seasons—remains one of the more awaited shows.
Previous Loewe shows have been themed around different forms of materiality and treatments, while keeping silhouettes and details rather minimal. Based on the teasers thus far, they do seem to suggest that creative director Jonathan Anderson may be sticking to the focus for spring/summer 2024.
Loewe presented a short film by Luca Guadagnino about a week ago that also serves as a preview to the collection. I Dreamt of Loewe showcases a number of embellished eyewear as well as a trio of new renditions of the Puzzle totes. And in terms of ready-to-wear, it appears to be elevated classics—washed denims, knit polos, and cardigans that are designed with jagged asymmetry. But for the full interpretation, we'll have to wait for it a little while longer.
Watch the Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear runway show here live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Loewe spring/summer 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 24 June 2023 at 6pm Singapore time
The menswear evolution at Saint Laurent under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello has been a gradual one. The beginning of his tenure saw Vaccarello sticking to predecessor Hedi Slimane's penchant for rock-and-roll skinnies, while at the same time adding his own inflections of chic. Since then—he's recently passed the seventh-year mark—Vaccarello has increasingly referenced Saint Laurent's archives, especially the work of its founder.
The Saint Laurent summer 2024 runway show was held in Berlin, Germany. While it may be more famously known for its vibrant rave and party culture, the city's art and design scenes too require little introduction. The glass-and-steel Neue Nationalgalerie—a modern art museum designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe—provided the perfect setting for the summer 2024 collection that further emphasised on Vaccarello's stamp for Saint Laurent: modern, elegant, and indisputably chic.
The fit: Just like the brand's previous presentation (the winter 2023 womenswear runway show), the focus for the summer 2024 menswear collection was the shoulder. Strong and structured, the general look consisted of an oversized blazer paired with high-waisted flute trousers, achieving a top-heavy silhouette that tapered down. The opening looks were classic pairings of tuxedos interpreted in the collection's silhouette but as the show progressed, button-downs were substituted in favour of neck-plunging tank tops crafted from silk.
When shoulders weren't accentuated and exaggerated by deftly tailored blazers and shirting, they were left bare. The aforementioned tank tops were joined by sheer blouses decorated with polka dots and extended scarf collars, halter-neck tops, toga blouses, and off-shoulder tops that all featured some manner of elegant draping.
The overall sense of flou was evident in the silk fabrications, but also in the continuation of winter 2023 menswear's use of oversized pussy bows tied around the neck.
The details: It does seem that when Vaccarello does a fashion show, the focus is almost strictly on the clothes and not much else. The Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection was no different—there were no bags to speak of. The accessory du jour however, were aviator sunglasses. And true to form, the devil was in the details. What may have seemed like regular aviators, were given a modern twist with temples connected to the bottom of lenses instead of the top.
If you're looking for an update to wearing a shirt, refer to look 23's styling tip of treating one like how you would a bathrobe—simply disregard the buttons, wrap the shirt around the waist and tuck it into trousers. It's not a new hack by any means but a nifty one to experiment with oversized shirts.
Three exceptional looks: Look 5 is quintessential to the Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection that's further elevated with the hint of a red pocket square; look 29 for a dramatic elegance befitting any occasion; and look 37 that's proof of the timeless simplicity of an all-black fit.
The takeaway: If this summer season is all about baring abs with cropped tops, summer 2024 may perhaps be the time to work on the pecs and guns.
View the full Saint Laurent summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
