Perfumer Quentin Bisch is no stranger to the industry, having worked on some of the most iconic fragrances for brands like Jean Paul Gaultier, Ex Nihilo, L’Artisan Parfumeur and more. His first project with Issey Miyake reinterprets the famed L’Eau d’Issey to bring about a new idea on what masculinity is today: Le Sel d’Issey.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: How did you become a perfumer?
QUENTIN BISCH: I have always been fascinated by scents, but I didn’t know anyone who worked in perfumery, and unfortunately I wasn’t good at science. I thought I couldn’t be a perfumer without it. So, I decided to focus on the performing arts and even managed a theatre company for six years. But the pull of perfumery was too strong and I ended up writing to Jean Guichard, director of Givaudan Perfumery School. He thought my profile was interesting and recommended that I start as an assistant perfumer. I began working with Michel Almairac at Robertet in Grasse, who taught me about raw materials and accords. The following year, Givaudan contacted me and I was accepted into their school.
ESQ: What is your first olfactory memory?
QB: The perfume my mother used to wear: Shalimar by Guerlain. She had a bottle of it with her when she gave birth to me, so I probably smelt it as soon as I was born.
ESQ: How did you come to connect L’Eau d’Issey with salt?
QB: Launched 30 years after L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme, Le Sel d’Issey is a tribute to today’s masculinity, reconnected to its senses, conjuring up the image of a beneficent nature that transmits to men the impetus, drive and desire to live intensely.
ESQ: Scents are often tied to one’s memories. Because salt inherently has no scent, what’s your personal memory to salt that conjured up the eventual fragrance that is Le Sel d’Issey?
QB: I wanted to create the smell of that exact transition point that exists between land and sea, when the waves recede. The memory of the water left on the earth, this salt deposited like an imprint.
ESQ: How did the salt accord for Le Sel d’Issey come about?
QB: I wanted to work on the concept of movement, the infinite surf of the waves and salt as a mineral memory deposited on the earth. The idea of working with a large, salty and pure woodiness took hold. We, with the Issey Miyake teams, sought to facet the subject while preserving the singularity of the initial idea.
ESQ: You included upcycled ingredients as part of making Le Sel d’Issey. Is this something that you’ve done before?
QB: Many key perfume ingredients are part of our certified upcycling portfolio. As a result, they are used regularly.
ESQ: Are sustainability and the use of more earth-friendly ingredients (sourced ethically and with lower impact on the environment) things that perfumers take into account nowadays?
QB: By 2030, Givaudan aims to achieve a fully renewable and responsibly sourced ingredient palette, which serves as the perfumers’ essential tool. This ambition underscores our eco-conscious approach to enhancing fragrance ingredients by incorporating materials derived from renewable sources, while simultaneously improving processes to minimise carbon and energy consumption.
ESQ: You’ve worked for both niche and designer fragrances. Is there a difference in how you conceptualise a scent for each?
QB: There is no difference in fragrance conceptualisation, but there is a difference in the way the perfume is developed. Often, more niche or high-end perfume brands have an artistic director with
whom we are in direct contact. On the prestige side, the stakes are much higher, in terms of distribution and at the economic level for example. There are therefore more decision-makers and competition.
ESQ: Are there ingredients or scents that you personally would not use in your own creations?
QB: Never, because even if we hate a colour, maybe one day this colour will be very useful in a painting to bring out something else. Colours like smells are tools to create something, so I think rejecting some of them would be closed-minded. In reality, you never know what you will need tomorrow.
ESQ: TikTok has somewhat brought to light cheaper fragrances that are regarded as “dupes” (or similar) to luxury fragrances. What are your thoughts on such fragrances that smell almost identical to niche or luxury fragrances?
QB: I hate the idea because it is totally disrespectful to the original creations.
ESQ: What is the most quintessential men’s fragrance, in your opinion?
QB: There is not one, but several masculinities. And they are constantly reinventing themselves and we therefore cannot define masculinity. It is up to everyone to define it and moreover a feminine perfume can be extremely masculine on a man or on a woman.
It's the second Friday of May. You're a couple of days away from turning up to Mother's Day dinner with a flower arrangement that (a) you didn't order in advance so it's pretty much an assortment of leftovers the florist managed to collate, and (b) you're kinda screwed, dude.
Not to bring up an Asian mother trope, but we sure she's going to be nice about receiving a floral bouquet, before flicking through Facebook or her Whatsapp group chat with [insert aunty's name] showcase of the gift her thoughtful son got her. It's no competition, yes. But she definitely deserves something more.
Thankfully, there are plenty of last-minute Mother's Day gift options out there that you don't even need to sneakily get her sizes for. And we've scoured 10 just for you.
Adorned with the signature Visetos monogram, the Ella Boston Bag in Maxi Visetos epitomises timeless elegance and contemporary allure. Drawing inspiration from vintage travel trunks of Munich's golden era, this bag boasts a leather hang tag and a logo-engraved metal padlock, paying homage to its jet-setting heritage. Red roses? Nah.
How do you honour a mother's invaluable and nurturing love? Bulgari’s exquisite Diva's Dream necklaces might offer a radiant answer. Featuring signature shapes with mother of pearl inserts and vibrant malachite, these timeless pieces symbolise unconditional love—a perfect tribute to the extraordinary mothers in our lives.
Encased in a sleek, new design with magnetic closure, a Rouge Dior red lip never goes out of style. Its long-lasting formula ensures comfort, enriched with hydrating lip care for nourishment. There's a spectrum of shades in matte velvet and satin finishes—the matte velvet finish grants full, soft lips with a weightless feel, while the satin finish imparts brightness and shape. More than just a lipstick, it's also a small piece of luxury that she'll be able to carry with her wherever she goes.
We know we’ve been veering from the usual flower choices, but bear with us—these aren't your typical blooms. These exquisite origami flowers are crafted by Atelier Oï in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. It's a partnership that celebrates craftsmanship with creations inspired by emotional material encounters. Each leather petal reflects a story of love and care, reflecting the essence of maternal strength as well as the beauty of handmade artistry. If you want to get her flowers, get her these ones that won't wither after a week.
Made from the handpicked roses cultivated in the House's new Southern France atelier, Henry Jacques reveals its latest expression, Collection de l’Atelier. The limited edition collection features three distinct fragrances—Rose Soleil, Rose Trés Rose, and Rose Azur—in generous 30ml volumes to emphasise the rarity, preciousness and quality. Also available as a set of three, elegantly presented in a handcrafted chest. Limited to just 500 bottles, each a singular creation, this collection is an exclusive offering never to be duplicated.
Handcrafted in Italy from textured calf leather, the Rocking Horse Bag blends nostalgic charm with modern versatility. Featuring a unique "b" closure, it's a nod to the classic rocking horse toy. With an adjustable strap, it effortlessly transitions from shoulder to crossbody wear. Embellished with the iconic tartan-check pattern, this medium version in Lichen ensures versatility and ample space for your mother's everyday needs.
Just as mothers gracefully navigate the twists and turns of parenting, shoes likewise adapt to diverse terrains. Show your appreciation with a pair of Gucci slide sandals—a perfect nod to their resilience and elegance. Crafted from light blue denim, these slide sandals are adorned with an embroidered Gucci script and striped accents, merging style with comfort seamlessly.
Pamper mom with the La Mer Replenishing Moisture Collection Set. This limited-edition set comprises of La Mer's hydrating Treatment Lotion, transformative Eye Concentrate, protective Lime Tea Concentrate, and luxurious Hydrating Infused Emulsion and Crème De La Mer. With indulgent moisture in four simple steps, it's the perfect pampering solution for radiant, youthful-looking skin, suitable for all skin types.
Issey Miyake introduces L’Eau d’Issey Solar Violet. This new fragrance pay homage to nature's beauty, embodying the transformation of water after encountering the sublime. L’Eau d’Issey Solar Violet, crafted by perfumer Marie Salamagne, merges freshness with sensuality, featuring luminous violet and sunny pear notes. Dermatologically tested and suitable for sun exposure with proper protection, it makes a thoughtful gift as a celebration of the radiant spirit of motherhood.
The Dyson Airstrait Straightener revolutionises hair straightening with air, not heat. Its innovative design allows for simultaneous drying and straightening from wet, without hot plates, ensuring no heat damage. Featuring precise directional airflow and intelligent heat control, it safeguards hair's natural shine by measuring temperature 16 times per second. No more accidentally burning her fingers for mom.
If books are windows to another world then get ready for a world tour. Embark on a journey around the globe with two new Louis Vuitton books. Offering sensorial experiences (aside from its chocolate shoppe) from different corners of the planet that are depicted through a photographer's lens and an artists’ watercolour works. Synonymous with the art of travelling, the trunk maker continues to capture the essence of new experiences and adventure through documentation.
As 2024 begins, Éditions Louis Vuitton extends another invitation to travel with Martin Parr’s United Kingdom. From shores to villages, the latest addition to the Fashion Eye collection paints a bittersweet portrait of the island nation.
The book records the ordinary life of the working class and the aristocracy. With about a hundred pictures in its contents, some never before published, it documents real life and real people in the four corners of the UK between 1998 and today.
Throughout, Parr maintains the same mischievous tone established in his first cult series and films like Bad Weather (1982); The Last Resort (1982-1985); The Cost of Living (1989); Signs of the Times (1992). Forty years later, he observes his peers the way his father observed birds: tirelessly.
Altogether, Parr's works transcends boundaries imposed by distance and space, offering an anthropological look at life in the UK to the world. Sharing many mixed emotions he feels towards his homeland, Parr presents his subjects as they are, flaws and all. Instead of imposing a specific perspective, he simply shows them as they truly are. As to its interpretation? Well, the best works are the ones that the viewers have to come up with their own.
Fashion Eye United Kingdom by Martin Parr will be available in Louis Vuitton stores, online and through select booksellers from 5 April 2024.
With the release of A Perfume Atlas, Louis Vuitton reveals the tedious processes that go into perfume making. Orchestrated by Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, master perfumer of Louis Vuitton, the book invites readers to trail the creator in his search for exceptional ingredients. Opening the door to a sensorial world filled with discoveries through the words of Lionel Paillès—an author renowned for his expertise in perfumery—coupled with paintings of Aurore de la Morinerie and photography by Sébastien Zanella.
A Perfume Atlas offers an extremely rare glimpse inside the savoir-faire of Belletrud. Through 200 watercolour depictions, it unveils the secrets of the house's perfume production process. Each page follows the master perfumer circling the globe in search of materials and his relationships with farmers in remote locales. Readers will be drawn by an evocative energy enhanced by age-old folklore.
A Perfume Atlas is also available in a limited edition set: the Perfume Atlas exclusive set. It includes 45 phials containing extractions of raw materials specially selected and presented by Belletrud.
It is a celebration of High Perfumery that is both poetic and scientific. This publication will delight lovers of nature, travel and beauty.
Available from 2 April 2024, A Perfume Atlas will be on sale at all Louis Vuitton stores. The limited edition box set will be on sale in selected stores.
In a world buzzing with nearly 8 billion individuals, each flaunting distinct personalities, memories and styles, it's a bit of a chuckle to think there's one scent that fits all. Maison 21G is all about celebrating individuality. They're on a mission to prove that crafting a scent exclusively for you is like bottling the essence of your very soul, because, let's face it, you deserve a fragrance as distinctive as you.
In today's world, work events have become an integral part of our social scene. Going beyond the knock-off hour, work now takes the form of networking and making a memorable impression is key. What better way to stand out than with a subtle yet powerful method like scent? Consider the occasion as each opportunity requires a nuance olfactory combination that will leave a lasting mark.
Impress your boss and asserting your power. When you pair Maison 21G's Leather Lust with Havana Harvest, you get a daring but elegant combination that commands attention. This unique blend harmonises the refined spiciness and woody notes of tobacco with the intense, smoky allure of leather. This fragrance fusion effortlessly captures attention, making you the centre of admiration. For a timeless and refined scent that complements your personal style, mixing Leather Lust with Cedar Caviar is a winning choice.
Now, let's dive into one of Maison 21G's most popular notes among men in Singapore: Sage Supreme. This aromatic gem offers endless possibilities for turning heads. For an uplifting and charismatic scent creation, combine Sage Supreme with Cashmere Wood. This dynamic pairing combines the fresh, green, and aromatic notes of sage with the intense, magnetic aroma of cashmere wood. The result? A powerful and magnetic sillage that enhances your natural charm and elegance. For a bolder statement, pair Sage Supreme with Terrific Tonka. This magnetic fragrance energises your night with a burst of fresh and radiant energy.
Prepare to make people swoon at dinner parties or first dates as Maison 21G becomes your partner-in-crime (we will deny everything if this happens to go to trial!) We suggest for an addictive and irresistible fragrance creation, mix Leather Lust with Fervent Fir Balsam. This combination blends the sweet and fruity notes of fir balsam with the intense, woody and smoky scent of leather. It wraps you in an enigmatic aura that captivates the imaginings of others to muse, who is that international man of mystery? or Is he from the Illuminati?
To immerse your desired company in seduction, combine Vetiver Virtuoso with Terrific Tonka. This warm and alluring blend merges the alluring and charming effects of vetiver with the nutty, sweet and seductive notes of Tonka. Fall under the enchanting and subtle spell of this luxurious scent. For a perfectly balanced allure, the most popular combination is Ocean Odyssey and Sage Supreme. This fresh and marine fragrance invites others into the sparkle of your personality.
Maison 21G offers scents designed to ignite desire and pleasure in the bedroom (or car or hotel suite; as long as it's away from the public eye). To reveal your vivacious nature and energise your bedroom prowess, mix the charismatic Vetiver Virtuoso with the spicy allure of Ginger Game.
For a fiery and seductive fusion, mix Ancestral Agar with Amber Affair. This warm and spicy creation blends the intoxicating, animalic and leathery notes of agarwood with the sensual warmth of amber. For an intimate night, try the irresistible combination of Vanilla Venus and Sleek Sandalwood. This comforting and addictive combo uses the suave scent of sandalwood with the gourmand and leathery essence of vanilla.
Remember that scent is your silent weapon; capable of leaving an unforgettable impression. From first impressions to igniting passions, Maison 21G lets you step into the realm of personalised scents.
Visit Maison 21G to create your bespoke scent.
The esteemed multi-brand fragrance retailer embarks on its exciting third venture with Amaris Jewel Changi—a captivating brick-and-mortar boutique and the first to be positioned in the east.
Like its stores in VivoCity and Paragon, Amaris aims to provide an immersive experience at the latest Jewel Changi location. The new space follows a similar vibe to its first two stores, with a contrasting colour palette of deep teals and metallic golds. Its purpose is to create a luxurious olfactory journey that captivates the senses of discerning individuals from all corners of the globe as well as educating customers on the interesting profiles and origins of the niche and premium fragrance brands that they have.
The Amaris Jewel Changi store is also more geared towards international travellers. More travel kits are stocked here from brands the likes of Atelier Cologne, Goldfield & Banks as well as Ex Nihilo. Not only are the the perfect size for any traveller's personal grooming kit, they also make for thoughtful gifts.
The Amaris Jewel Changi store is located at 01-257, and is open between 10am to 10pm.
Penhaligon’s Portraits is a long-running series of an aristocratic family drama gone wild. There’s intrigue, romance, forbidden romance and… murder? (Wait, there is no suspicious death… at least not yet.) As the narrative progresses, so does the stable of characters; each of them is an animal and the scent contained within, a complement to its personality. The bottle is slightly heavier and is topped with a polished animal head, inspired by the character it represents; the package is designed, as ever, by Kristjana Williams.
So far there’s Lord George who has a mistress, Clara, outside of his marriage with Lady Blanche who plots to get back at him. Their daughter, Duchess Rose, is wedded to Duke Nelson and they are not happy about their marital arrangement. Oh yeah, there’s also Radcliff, the illegitimate son of Lord George and Clara (the scandal). In this latest chapter, another player enters the scene, this time he takes on the form of the mythical. Meet Arthur, who’s a muthalovin’ dragon. His backstory has him, after a brief run-in with the law, return from the Orient (wait, is it still cool to say ‘Orient’?). Why is he back? Does he have an agenda? I’m actually more curious that dragons are canon in Penhaligon’s Portraits series.
But what does Arthur smell like? Imagine a serene garden with a strong incense at the start before you come to its sage heart and then end with the nutty profile of tonka beans and frankincense. It is that nuanced characteristics that add a little more kick to the unfolding drama that is Penhaligon’s Portraits.
Penhaligon’s Portraits’ The World According to Arthur retails for SGD420 and is available online and at all Penhaligon’s boutiques.