Versace is typically not one to quickly hop onto trends or care much about the shifts in consumer tastes. It marches to its own beat—coming up with a new-ish monogram, La Greca, only in 2021 (well after other brands) but relatively sticking to its signature Barocco prints, Medusa logo, and sexually charged designs.

It's surprising then that for Spring/Summer 2024, Donatella Versace decided to do a 180 with a collection that's representative of a return to minimalism—or that often misused phrase, "quiet luxury"—but done the Versace way. To be fair, this wasn't the first instance of Donatella going rogue with a rather minimalist collection. This is, however, perhaps her most successful execution yet.

The fit: The show opened with luxurious duchess silks adorned with the Versace Contrasto Checkerboard—a pattern that debuted in Spring/Summer 1982—in varying sizes and later paired with utilitarian pieces the likes of a perfectly cut trench and multi-pocketed gilet. They were simply teasers of what's to come: a skilful combination of tailoring and Versace motifs rendered in pastel hues.

The checked and square motifs continued on in multiple fabrications including wool crepe tweed. In some instances, checkerboard prints were layered with signature Barocco prints as well as a Versace Rose motif but in quite muted monochromatic renderings such that they weren't fighting for attention.

The focus on cut and tailoring were evident for the Versace Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Lines were sharp and clean with nipped in waists and three-dimensional sculptural shoulder moments that elevated the level of craft and construction further. In look 69 (the most minimal menswear look of the lot) for example, an impeccably tailored jacket with flared trousers showcased the peak of Versace tailoring but at the same time exuded a timeless aesthetic. It's highly edited and pared back, yes; yet the Versace man still exudes a sexy confidence.

The details: There's no denying that there were semblances of Miu Miu and Prada stylings—it's difficult to not reference the of-the-moment combinations, especially when taking on a minimalist approach. But again, Donatella made them her own. The peeking of underwear under trousers, scoop-neck tanks and fine gauge knit cardigans (both interpreted with gorgeous macramé Barocco borders) were reworked codes of Versace sensuality.

There were hints of a feminine-masculine tension that skewed in neither direction yet showed that the Versace man wouldn't be fazed even if it did. He's that confident.

Three exceptional looks: Look 12's maroon leather suit that's a stunning showcase of leather tailoring; the pastel blue mod-tailoring in look 23 with that clever styling of unbuttoning the last few buttons to show a hint of skin and underwear; and look 73's excellent tailoring.

The takeaway: This is how you do timeless, elegant minimalism while evolving house codes without looking like the next Zara collection.

View the full Versace Spring/Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.

Look 1.
Look 2.
Look 3.
Look 4.
Look 5.
Look 6.
Look 7.
Look 8.
Look 9.
Look 10.
Look 11.
Look 12.
Look 13.
Look 14.
Look 15.
Look 16.
Look 17.
Look 18.
Look 19.
Look 20.
Look 21.
Look 22.
Look 23.
Look 24.
Look 25.
Look 26.
Look 27.
Look 28.
Look 29.
Look 30.
Look 31.
Look 32.
Look 33.
Look 34.
Look 35.
Look 36.
Look 37.
Look 38.
Look 39.
Look 40.
Looks 41 and 42.
Look 43.
Look 44.
Look 45.
Looks 46, 47, 48 and 49.
Look 50.
Look 51.
Look 52.
Look 53.
Look 54.
Look 55.
Look 56.
Look 57.
Look 58.
Look 59.
Look 60.
Look 61.
Look 62.
Look 63.
Look 64.
Look 65.
Look 66.
Look 67.
Look 68.
Look 69.
Look 70.
Look 71.
Look 72.
Look 73.
Look 74.
Look 75.
Look 76.
Look 77.
Look 78.
Look 79.
Look 80.
Photo by Zegna

192 bales of raw linen were transported from Normandy to Milan for the Zegna spring/summer 2024 runway show. They formed an oasis of sorts—Zegna calls the show L'Oasi di Lino (translation: the linen oasis)—within the Piazza San Fedele in Milan.

More than a showcase of what's coming up for the season, the show was once again a reiteration of Zegna's efforts at ensuring that its materials—the very basis of the brand—are sourced and produced with as little negative effects to the environment as possible. And before you call out the brand for potentially wasting raw materials for the show's scenography, Zegna ensures that the raw linen will be turned into its Oasi Linen fabric in Italy. It's also committed to certifying Oasi Linen as 100 percent traceable by 2024.

With that, the hero of the Zegna spring/summer 2024 collection is linen. A number of amalgamations were featured throughout the collection with treatments that displayed artistic director Alessandro Sartori's tactile mastery in materiality. And of course, his penchant for monochromatic looks.

The fit: There was an overall sense of ease and lightness to the collection that's typical of Zegna, and it's even more so owed to the generally linen-based fabrication. Shorts were cut roomy and grazed the knees, and were mostly part of coordinates—a Sartori-favoured leitmotif of constant reimaginings of men's suiting. Blazers were cut without lapels for a more streamlined appearance and oversized outerwear were designed with clean lines ensuring that elements were all flushed with little flourishes. On some instances where lapels did appear, they're actually a result of trompe-l'œil techniques, especially visible on the leather pieces (looks 27 and 33).

The collection's knitwear amplified the sense of tactility, adding both visual interest as well as contrasting textures. And if there's one thing that grounded the entire collection, it would be the triangular scarves seen on a number of looks. There's a sprezzatura sensibility about them that conjures this idea of an Italian summer—perhaps lounging around next to bales of hay (or linen) and without a single care in the world.

Photo by Zegna
Photo by Zegna

The details: Soft handbags crafted from supple leather made several appearances, echoing a similar kind of airiness of the ready-to-wear. The footwear though are the stars. The Triple Stitch was adapted into an espadrille-hybrid with visible rope-stitching running along the soles. Sartori also introduced a new slip-on shoe design cut from one piece of leather and affixed with chunky, textured soles for a truly sophisticated look.

Three exceptional looks: Look 14's classic Zegna fit with the addition of a triangular scarf for that added style factor; look 18 was a beautifully cut jumpsuit that retained elements of traditional menswear tailoring, especially in the interior; and look 45's textural masterpiece in the collection's standout flamingo hue.

The takeaway: This is not your grandfather's linen.

View the full Zegna spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.

Look 1. Photo by Zegna
Look 2. Photo by Zegna
Look 3. Photo by Zegna
Look 4. Photo by Zegna
Look 5. Photo by Zegna
Look 6. Photo by Zegna
Look 7. Photo by Zegna
Look 8. Photo by Zegna
Look 9. Photo by Zegna
Look 10. Photo by Zegna
Look 11. Photo by Zegna
Look 12. Photo by Zegna
Look 13. Photo by Zegna
Look 14. Photo by Zegna
Look 15. Photo by Zegna
Look 16. Photo by Zegna
Look 17. Photo by Zegna
Look 18. Photo by Zegna
Look 19. Photo by Zegna
Look 20. Photo by Zegna
Look 21. Photo by Zegna
Look 22. Photo by Zegna
Look 23. Photo by Zegna
Look 24. Photo by Zegna
Look 25. Photo by Zegna
Look 26. Photo by Zegna
Look 27. Photo by Zegna
Look 28. Photo by Zegna
Look 29. Photo by Zegna
Look 30. Photo by Zegna
Look 31. Photo by Zegna
Look 32. Photo by Zegna
Look 33. Photo by Zegna
Look 34. Photo by Zegna
Look 35. Photo by Zegna
Look 36. Photo by Zegna
Look 37. Photo by Zegna
Look 38. Photo by Zegna
Look 39. Photo by Zegna
Look 40. Photo by Zegna
Look 41. Photo by Zegna
Look 42. Photo by Zegna
Look 43. Photo by Zegna
Look 44. Photo by Zegna
Look 45. Photo by Zegna
Look 46. Photo by Zegna
Look 47. Photo by Zegna
Look 48. Photo by Zegna
Look 49. Photo by Zegna
Look 50. Photo by Zegna
Look 51. Photo by Zegna
Look 52. Photo by Zegna
Look 53. Photo by Zegna
Look 54. Photo by Zegna