(SHANGHAI TANG)

For over three decades, SHANGHAI TANG has blended luxury fashion and lifestyle with Asian flair. It's a cute-meet between East and West. Through the combination of millennia-old cultural influences, exquisite craftsmanship, and contemporary art.

Renowned for its collaborations with artists to promote Chinese arts and culture, the brand didn't break new ground with its partnership with Jacky Tsai. But it is a collaboration that works. The multimedia Chinese artist, who is based in London, has an impressive body of work that ranges from traditional canvases to real-time NFT digital pieces, integrating Eastern ideology and cultural symbols with Western Pop art icons and motifs. Themes of his pieces include alternative narratives and realities, constantly reflecting on our own.

Like SHANGHAI TANG, Jacky Tsai unifies the differences and similarities between perceptions. His art is a provocation into viewers' ideas of intercultural relationships and that establishes both tension and harmony between cultural representations.

(SHANGHAI TANG)

This year’s Holiday Collection draws inspiration from Tsai’s iconic butterfly and galloping horse motifs. Each piece is infused with a dynamic and chic pop art vibe. With bold colour contrasts and striking patterns, it embodies the lively spirit of Tsai's original artworks. Along with SHANGHAI TANG's signature embroidery, it imbues a refined craftsmanship. You're wearing art as each garment is a canvas of creativity. The collection features limited edition pieces with exclusive designs that captures three decades of a shared artistry and cultural innovation.

After a promising menswear debut for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, creative director Sabato De Sarno is readying his sophomore menswear collection for Gucci.

The show will be staged at the Triennale Milano, a museum of art and design located in the heart of the city. The choice of venue is intended for the House to pay homage to Italian heritage of craftsmanship and innovation. And if that tells us anything at all about the upcoming collection, is that De Sarno could probably be tapping on a bit more on Gucci's place in Italian fashion and in turn, expanding on the visual vocabulary that he's been setting up the House for.

For confirmation of what the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.

What: Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Monday, 17 June 2024 at 8pm Singapore time

Bulgari zeroes in on the B.zero1’s original shape for its latest novelties, playing with placements of diamonds for a precious refresh.
(BVLGARI)

When Bulgari speaks of the “Italian Genius”, it is referencing Italy as home of the luminaries of science and the arts. From Leonardo Da Vinci’s visionary inventions to the astronomical theories presented by Galileo, to the Renaissance masterpieces by Raphael, Sandro Botticelli and Michelangelo, there is no doubt Italy has been a hotbed of creativity.

Bulgari continues this heritage with the B.zero1 collection. It is a fine example of Bulgari’s Italian Genius manifestation—iconic in its own right, with a strikingly distinct look that is immediately recognisable, even from afar. It’s a statement and a staple credited to its unique design language and its use of clean lines. What started in 1999 as a ring inspired by the Tubogas technique—an industrial- inspired method pioneered by Bulgari—has seen many iterations, each version exploring a different facet of the B.zero1.

Yet, through it all, the foundational design of the B.zero1 stands on its own. Reminiscent of Rome’s Colosseum with its sinewy flowing lines embedded between two thicker edges; these are key characteristics that are the focus of Bulgari’s 2024 B.zero1 novelties.

B.zero 1 ring in white gold with pavé diamonds, BVLGARI

At its simplest, the B.zero1 Essential ring is a basic band branded with the Bulgari logo that’s fitted with a single diamond. Taking it up a notch is a three-band B.zero1 available in 18k rose, yellow, and white gold. Within the circumference of the ring is the interior wave with a diamond pavé set at the edge. The collection’s Mona Lisa is a truly a fearless design rendered in a two-band rose or white gold. Instead of the iconic wave, the interior is bedecked with pavé diamonds. Multiple-sized diamonds were used to create a three-dimensional depth and flow, which captures the fluidity of the original design.

And there will be more to come: two matching bangle bracelets are set to be released in June this year. The bracelets round off the entire collection as well as offer more styling options.

B.zero 1 rings in rose, yellow and white gold with pavé diamonds along the edges or on the spiral, BVLGARI

While American businessman Bert Lance may have reason to propose that “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, that is evidently not how a genius operates. If the constant exploration of creative expressions is a measure of one’s ingenuity then, Bulgari will keep searching for new ways to elevate and refresh an icon like the B.zero1. Because resting on one’s laurels does not break boundaries. This is one of the brand’s noble goals it aims to embody.

"I mean, that's my least favourite sport, to be honest," a then 23-year-old Tyler, The Creator told Billboard in 2014, referring to the name of his brand Golf Wang. "I don't know. The word just looks sick." Golf Wang has zero connections to the sport—save for the occasional sweater vest that's a golfwear staple. It's really a playful spoonerism of Wolf Gang, short for the hip-hop collective Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them All that Tyler was a part of.

Tyler's sentiments may have changed since. In his first collaboration with Louis Vuitton in its Pharrell Williams era, you'd find a series of golf-inspired accessories, golfwear and actual, usable golf paraphernalia. The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men's Capsule Collection by Tyler, the Creator's golf bag is an impressive piece crafted from Damier Golf coated canvas (a grass-green rendition of the maison's signature Damier pattern) trimmed with leather and gold-coloured hardware, and comes with a set of three balls and four tees. It's fitted with a number of nifty pockets, has an umbrella holder, and can carry around a full set of clubs. Louis Vuitton and Tyler are definitely not joshing around.

This isn't Louis Vuitton's first entry into golf. In 2023, the maison introduced a new golf trunk geared towards both professionals and lovers of the sport. Not only does it have dedicated compartments for everything and anything golf-related, it even comes with a Louis Vuitton-branded putting mat for on-the-go practice. The collaboration with Tyler is an indication that the sport is quickly becoming a luxury fashion darling—another avenue for a brand to expand into.

Golf became a way of maintaining a social aspect of life while keep distant during the pandemic.
(BERLUTI)

What was once a somewhat exclusionary sport guarded by the confines of a country club has opened up to a wider audience with golf courses made more accessible. Golf's elitist rep has changed of late too, thanks to (as with a lot of other things) the Covid-19 pandemic. With social-distancing protocols in place and indoor spaces seen as potential super-spreader hotbeds, golf became the perfect way of blowing off steam and keeping a safe level of social interaction at a time when congregating in large groups was potentially dangerous. Teeing off in the open space, surrounded by a maximum of four other people, made golf ideal as a much needed mental health break.

The numbers don't lie. The National Golf Foundation in the US noted a record number of people who played golf for the first time in 2023 at 3.4 million. It's a figure that has been consistent since the pandemic; a pre-pandemic record was set in 2000 with 2.4 million beginners. What's even more telling about golf's growing mainstream appeal is that young adults (aged 18 to 34) make up the sport's biggest segment with over 12 million playing both on and off courses.

Unsurprisingly, Louis Vuitton is far from the only brand attempting to capture a growing number of younger players, whether new or seasoned. adidas and BAPE dropped what they called a "golf ready" collection in October 2023 as part of a year-long celebration of the duo's 20th anniversary of collaborating together as well as the latter's 30th anniversary.

Much like Louis Vuitton, adidas and BAPE played up the colour green with a custom pair of Stan Smiths featuring a removable kiltie lace cover rendered in a camo print, a matching heel moustache, a green outsole and green sock liners. The sneakers were complemented by a range of ready-to-wear made to perform on the green while also having a streetwear sensibility. A camo print windbreaker and trousers aren't typically what you'd see on golf courses where plain polo tees and chinos have traditionally reigned supreme, but they're indicative of the kind of energy that the sport is now engaging with.

If adidas and BAPE's collaboration is too much of a statement on the green, brands like Fendi and Berluti offer more timeless proposals with elements of traditional individual iconographies. Released in tandem with the 2023 Ryder Cup, Fendi's golf capsule collection focused on comfort. Cotton bermudas and polo shirts trimmed with the FF logo formed the foundations of the capsule. A hooded windbreaker and a knit gilet completed the ready-to-wear portion, each providing semblances of protection and style.

Berluti took a similar approach. Its golf capsule collection was a classic assortment of jackets, gilets and lightweight knits emblazoned with the Berluti B. A new pair of leather derbies was also introduced, fitted with soles crafted specifically for golf, but with Berluti's signature leather patina panels differentiating it from any other golf-appropriate footwear.

(FENDI)
(FENDI)
(FENDI)
(BERLUTI)
(BERLUTI)
(BERLUTI)

It's always a tricky strategic manoeuvre that brands have to be cognisant of whenever attempting to break into a new segment. Whether it was skateboarding or tennis or basketball, it was always the we're-not-reinventing-the-wheel kind of approach that worked best to capture the attention of a burgeoning scene as well as existing players of the sport. Fendi and Berluti, like Louis Vuitton, offered their own interpretations of the golf bag without straying far from familiar designs. They function just the same—packed with added functionalities for some—and are masterful showcases of the kind of craftsmanship that each brand is known for.

"Following the success of Mr P.'s first golf collection, we are delighted to bring our customers a new range, this time with pieces in partnership with leading golf brand G/FORE," says Olie Arnold, style director at MR PORTER. The online menswear platform launched its latest golf collection last month under its in-house brand Mr P. with a collaboration with G/FORE—a Los Angeles-based golfwear brand.

G/FORE had already found its footing as a contemporary golf brand that's unapologetically youthful, fun and whimsical. You'll find staple classics sitting right next to its brightly-soled Gallivan2r shoes, and patterned polos in tech materials you'd want to wear on the regular. Tapping on the expertise of an existing presence in golf offers a level of credibility that assures consumers the capsule collection isn't mere aesthetics.

Golf is slowly going the way of how tennis has been embraced by the luxury fashion community. Louis Vuitton was an early adopter by signing Naomi Osaka as an ambassador in 2021, followed by Carlos Alcaraz last year. We have yet to see a pro golfer fronting luxury fashion campaigns but that doesn't seem too far away. As it stands, the number of celebs taking up the sport is becoming more visible. DJ Khaled shared a photo of himself on Instagram with his Louis Vuitton golf accessories; Justin Bieber has been consistently playing recreationally for a couple of years now; Travis Scott is also a fan, as are many others.

Yes, there is a renewed resurgence for the sport, marked by a continuous intersection between luxury fashion and lifestyle. But will it stay? That is anybody's guess and it depends on how the golfing community will tap on this uptick to evolve the sport. There needs to be a way to not only make golf more exciting, but also more accessible to a range of income brackets so that not only the Tylers of the world can partake in the joy of the swing.

Bucket bag, LOEWE

In season five of Friends, there's an episode aptly titled "The One With Joey's Bag". The central narrative was of Joey Tribbiani (played by Matt LeBlanc), having received a bag from Jennifer Aniston's Rachel as part of his desire to fit into a role of "a real clothes horse" that he's auditioning for, falling in love with said bag. But of course, given that it was 1999, his friends found every opportunity to ridicule him for even carrying the bag.

You'd think that the bag was in a ghastly shade of pink or a tiny purse that could barely fit anything (even so, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a man wanting to carry either) but in actual fact, it's reminiscent of a top-handle briefcase that's far from extraordinary in today's context.

How times have changed, and thankfully so.

The best bags this season are big. They're made to fit more than just the essentials, with some having the capability to be versatile enough to transition from work bag to gym bag. And of course, because we're all for longterm investments, they're crafted from sturdy and luxurious materials that'll not only last but age well too. From Loewe's latest Pebble Bucket bag to Bottega Veneta's massive tote, we've curated some of the best bags of the season made for every man that you are.

Ear cuff, HERMÈS. Bag, DIOR MEN
Ear cuff, HERMÈS. Tote bag, BOTTEGA VENETA

Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Grooming: Kenneth Chia using KEVIN.MURPHY and TOM FORD BEAUTY
Photography Assistant: Xie Feng Mao
Styling Assistant: Chua Xin Xuan
Model: Aaron C at MANNEQUIN

Blouson, cardigan, bermudas, trapper hat and Dior Gravity Leather Dior Hit The Road backpack, DIOR MEN
(JACKIE NICKERSON)

Artistic director Kim Jones continues to expand Dior Men’s visual vocabulary in a manner that respects and upholds the legacy of the House. His latest—for the Fall 2024 collection—looks at reimagining the Dior Oblique motif once again.

Debuted in the Dior Men Winter 2023 collection, the Dior Oblique Gravity was the medium of choice to launch a new iteration of the Dior Saddle, dubbed the Dior Saddle Boxy. The Dior Oblique Gravity was introduced in a number of rich, bold hues that highlighted its characteristic patent leather sheen, with the embossed grooves providing a kind of tonal gradation.

For Fall 2024, Jones introduces an update. Where the Dior Oblique Gravity was visually more robust, the Dior Gravity Leather is its softer cousin in more ways than one.

Blouson, mockneck sweater, bermudas and Dior Gravity Leather Dior Hit The Road messenger bag, DIOR MEN
(JACKIE NICKERSON)

Unlike its predecessor, the Dior Gravity Leather employs the use of grain-textured leather for a more matte finish. The embossing technique itself is a work of art that reflects the house’s handcrafted approach in everything that it dabbles in. Instead of a typical embossing technique where pressure is manually applied to create the desired pattern, the Dior Oblique motif visible on the latest expression is created though a unique technique that delicately marks the leather with the aid of gravity. The result is an almost barely-there appearance across a selection of small leather goods and bags.

The Dior Gravity Leather is available in more muted shades of beige, black and khaki. Small leather goods, such as a belt and a cardholder, are dressed in the motif’s original scale, while bags are given a blown-up, maxi version for a play of proportions. The latter includes the Dior Hit The Road backpack that strikes a beautiful balance of luxury fashion and ruggedness in one refined piece.

Jacket, trousers, rings and Dior Gravity Leather Saddle Boxy bag, DIOR MEN
(JACKIE NICKERSON)

1. The Rich shampoo and The Rich conditioner, AUGUSTINUS BADER

Augustinus Bader is known for its potent, science-backed skincare, and now it is extending the cellular- renewing magic of its proprietary TFC8 tech to hair. An upgrade from its predecessor, The Rich shampoo and conditioner work in tandem to revive hair that’s extra-dry, heat-damaged, coloured and/or breakage-prone. Essentially, you’d have a mane like this handsome boy pictured.

2. Backpack, BERLUTI

Don’t be fooled by the appearance of this backpack. This work of art is part of Berluti’s Toujours Soft series. Crafted from Venezia leather, it cuts a rather structured profile but feels incredibly soft (and not to mention, light). The softness also gives the backpack potential to be even more pliable with age. The Scritto-decorated exterior also lends a classic gentlemanly air that’s contrasted with the contemporary top-handle-backpack hybrid.

3. Vetiver Le Parfum, Habit Rouge Le Parfum, and L’homme Idéal Le Parfum, GUERLAIN

Because ideas of what makes a man have changed over the decades, it makes perfect sense for Guerlain to update some of its signature men’s fragrances. Perfumer Delphine Jelk sought inspiration from the world of spirits, transforming Vetiver, Habit Rouge, and L’Homme Idéal into eau de parfums reminiscent of infused gin, bourbon and amaretto respectively. The intensities are heightened thanks to a selection of concentrated ingredients; each of the fragrances is seductive in its own way.

4. Shoes, ZEGNA

How does one create leather shoes that feel buttery-soft on your feet? Zegna achieves it with the use of leather typically reserved for making gloves. Not only is the leather durable and extremely light and airy, the glove leather-tanning process gives it a form- retaining capability that heightens the luxurious feel of the Zegna Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN shoes. Your feet will thank you.

5. Elite 8 Active earbuds, JABRA

Jabra boasts that its Elite 8 Active earbuds are the world’s toughest and it’s easy to understand why. They are US Military-tested to be dustproof; completely waterproof (with the added boon of being saltwater-proof), and fitted with the Jabra ShakeGrip tech to keep your ear buds in place no matter what activity you engage in.

6. Home Collection, River Spey Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, THE MACALLAN

Say hello to the second release in The Macallan Home Collection. This particular expression is a hearty mix of sultana, rich velvety butterscotch, toasted oak, chocolate and nutmeg for that characteristically sweet and fruity palate of the Spey. But beyond the whisky, each bottle comes with a set of three limited-edition giclée prints by artist Michelle Lucking to visually transport you to the natural beauty of The Macallan's home.

7. 1080V13 trainers, NEW BALANCE

It’s all in the foam with this one. The New Balance 1080V13 is fitted with a thick rubber outsole to help increase its durability in high-wear areas. There’s also its midsole that’s made for incredible comfort thanks to its bio-based Fresh Foam X material. There’s no doubt you’d be able to breeze through your daily training runs in these without needing to worry about post-run aches.

8. Aerospace B70 Orbiter, 43mm titanium case with rubber strap, BREITLING

Twenty-five years ago, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones were the first to circle the globe nonstop in a hot air balloon. Their timepiece of choice? Breitling’s Orbiter 3, clocking in 45,633km in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes. To commemorate that incredible feat, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter is dressed with an orange dial reminiscent of the balloon’s capsule and marked with the mission logo. A piece of the original balloon is also embedded within the watch itself, visible through the open caseback—a piece of history in your hand, literally, to remind you of the indomitable human spirit.

9. Scarf, LORO PIANA

We cannot tell you just how soft Loro Piana cashmere is—it is something you will just have to experience for yourself. This fringed cashmere scarf will keep you warm, whether in an air-conditioned setting or during a winter vacay. It’s that luxe feel that’s akin to being snuggled up by a fluffy kitty. Oh, and that circular gold logo adornment adds a rather spiffy touch too.

10. Hammerschlag Cabin suitcase, RIMOWA

We are all familiar with RIMOWA’s signature grooved detailing on its suitcases and accessories by now. But dig deeper into the brand’s archives and you would find the Hammerschlag (the German word for “hammer hit”) that predates the grooves. RIMOWA brought back the textured, polished aluminium series for a limited edition collection. This time, updating it with modern travel functionalities, so that it’s perfect for when you want to escape the rigours of life for a bit.

Photography: Jayden Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Digital Imaging and Retouching: Nguyen Tien Phuc
Photography Assistants: Aisyah Hisham and Brian Neo
Special thanks to Cat Paradise

Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.
Celine.

Slimane is still full of surprises

Get used to it: Hedi Slimane does what he wants and when he wants it. You've got to respect the artistic, image and creative director for his steely focus on a rather singular design aesthetic. The Celine Summer 2024 menswear collection, however, proves that for all the iconic things that Slimane has done, he can still craft fresh interpretations within his sphere of vision. And in this case, it's rather femme. 

The standard Slimane look is still evident in the Summer of 2024. Impeccable menswear tailoring finished off with skinny ties are nods to his Dior Homme era, but this time, elevated with rhinestones that seem to give off their own luminescence. 

There's a heavy focus on leather. Like trousers with a slight flare to the end as well as some of the collection's more standout moments. For example, a beautiful leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out that's inspired by 17th-century French court royalty. If that's not enough, more feminine nuances abound in the collection. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers take an exaggerated ribbon-like form that wraps around the waist. In one look, a new take on a leather biker jacket is designed with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seem to levitate away from the body. 

Add embellishments that are Slimane signatures, and you have a line that's the most feminine. See it as stage-ready uniforms for some of rock and roll's greats like David Bowie and Mick Jagger. 

A continued experimentation

There is reason why Loewe is one of the most anticipated shows each season. It has more to do with the out-of-the-box ideas that creative director Jonathan Anderson concocts each time rather than the celebrities that turn up for them (and trust us, there's been an increasing number of them). The fact that some of the celebrities would choose to wear the runway pieces days after they're presented is testament to the fresh and boundary-pushing silhouettes. 

For Spring/Summer 2024, the key highlight of the collection comes in the form of very high-waisted trousers that reach, at least, an inch above the belly button. The result is a dramatically elongated bottom with the torso effectively cut to a 1:3 ratio. Even more dramatic are the ones drenched in rhinestones and when paired with equally bejewelled polo shirts, the look is anything but staid.

Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.

While the combination has been getting a lot of media attention due to the number of celebs that have worn variations of it, there's a lot more to the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. There are vests twisted into a giant knot, deliciously oversized outerwear, and even a top that's effectively just secured with a giant pin. Sure, you won't be seeing the latter out in the streets on a normal weekday but the idea that something as conceptual as that could still be somewhat desirable to a fashion-loving audience clamouring for new perspectives is pretty inspiring. 

Need knits

Anyone who appreciates knitwear knows that there are almost limitless possibilities in what can be crafted from yarns. Automatons are indeed available to spit out a piece of knitwear in as little time as possible. But the creation of intricate pieces is often done by hand and, as this season shows, results in truly stunning works of art.

Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen.
Gucci.
Bottega Veneta.
Bottega Veneta.
Bottega Veneta.

Even at its simplest—as with a Gucci number in shades of blues and white—knit can have beautiful textures, adding depth to an exaggerated drop shoulder and a side-shoulder zip for unlimited styling capabilities. Bottega Veneta presents an array of knits that each display a different technique and skill. In one, the knitting is purposely twisted and warped to create a unique irregular pattern. In another, it presents itself as an abstract interpretation of the House's Intrecciato leather technique. 

Alexander McQueen takes it up a few notches, at least in terms of visual appeal. While several knits employ some on-brand deconstruction, it's the crochet vests that are just stunning. Florals for Spring is groundbreaking when done through a three-dimensional crochet consisting of a collage of flora. Even in its more single-hued variation, the textures stand out in the best ways possible.

Dior Men does tweed

Chanel may have adopted tweed as an enduring icon of the house and in the process, feminised the material. But in actuality, tweed began in the masculine domain. Invented by Scottish farmers in the 18th century, tweed was a means of keeping warm during the harsh winters. Its characteristically rough-hewn texture is designed to be weather-resistant—locking in heat and wicking away water. 

Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones reimagined tweed for its Summer 2024 collection. His penchant for merging the traditionally feminine codes of the Dior house with contemporary menswear is amped up with tweed woven into the emblematic Cannage motif. It's then used on everything from outerwear to cardigans and couture-level tailoring. 

Jones did not attempt at all to masculinise the material. Instead, he employs tweed as an example of the Dior Men aesthetic that he's built where the unexpected combination of tradition and the contemporary is married with the rich history of the house.

The Summer 2024 ready-to-wear pieces aren't the only ones where tweed is used, and thankfully so. Bags—spot the complete tweed iteration that's a more luxurious take on the outdoor backpack—and shoes, like loafers and sneakers, make full use of tweed's function-meets-aesthetic traits. You wouldn't be caught dead in a full tweed look in the summer—and you shouldn't—but the individual pieces look good enough to bust out now and then for an elevated sense of style. 

It's time for some cleavage

Anthony Vaccarello has decided that Spring/ Summer 2024 is the season for the man-cleavage. The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 menswear collection is replete with scoop-neck tops that highlight all the chest-pumping work you've been religiously focusing on at the gym. While Vaccarello's offerings may appear somewhat extreme (they're cut just inches away from a potential nip-slip) there's no denying that there's a certain level of sex appeal. Versace reckons so too with its silk tanks affording almost the same level of chest-baring proclivity.

Before you scoff at the design choice as simply something done by brands that are more fashion-forward than others, you'd be surprised to know that even Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are in on it too. The former stuck to a no-inner-under-suits look that crops up ever so often, while Emporio Armani embraced the chest with open shirting and waistcoats that are cut above the belly button.

Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent.
Giorgio Armani.
Giorgio Armani.
Versace.
Versace.
Emporio Armani.
Emporio Armani.
Emporio Armani.

Take this as the reverse crop top trend. Baring your chest is more forgiving than wearing a cropped top. It's much harder to achieve visible, three-dimensional abs than it is to get a decent defined chest. And the best thing is, you could get away with letting the chest breathe a little in public without drawing too much negative attention from wearing a cropped top. 

There's some gender-equality debate to be had here for sure but at the end of the day, do what feels right for you. Trends come and go but style is everlasting—or something to that effect.

Read on for part one of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.

When we first bore witness to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections slightly over six months ago—because, you know, fashion—it looked to be a very exciting time for menswear. It wasn't only for the unprecedented manner Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week Men's for his Louis Vuitton debut as creative director, but also for the strong proposals of what it means to be a man today. 

Homogeneity takes a backseat to make way for a splicing of masculine ideals. There's more than enough room for a man to be himself, however he wants to. The diverse range seen throughout the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections echoes the embrace of men unafraid of masculine displays in atypical machismo fashion. From the updated signatures of Giorgio Armani to Loewe's experimental codes, the collections are not for the everyman but for every man

That said, there's no reason to stick to one particular style too. The world contains multitudes—a multifaceted prism of the human race. Some days, you'd want to dress in sleek cuts peppered with soft nuances like from Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent. On other days, you'd feel like exuding a modern aristocrat courtesy of Dior Men. With choices aplenty, why settle for just one facet of your being? 

Boyish tendecies

Zegna.
Zegna.
Zegna.
Gucci.
Hermès.
Hermès.
Burberry.
Burberry.
Valentino.
Valentino.
Valentino.
Valentino.

It's funny to think that when we were younger, there was a strong desire to want to be older and bigger. And once we've reached the realities of adulthood, we often look back fondly at the relative carefree ease of our youth. We are not projecting but it does seem to be a constant narrative in fashion—drawing inspiration from childhood and youthful energy. 

What's evident for Spring/Summer 2024 is the adoption of boyish proportions. Rejecting any sense of what the "perfect" fit is, brands like Gucci (still a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection) opt to channel this through a calculated drowning of the body with fabric. It's almost like wearing a piece from an older and much bigger figure, while others pair oversized tops with shorts and bermudas that barely graze the knees. The latter wouldn't look out of place in the skateboard scene but materialised with modern tailoring as exemplified by Valentino and Burberry. Hermès offers shorts that almost disappear under outerwear and knitwear, effectively creating its most daring menswear proposal yet. 

If you intend to jump on the bandwagon, start with Zegna's more proportioned stylings consisting of oversized tops and outerwear with loose-fit bermudas. Those look more intentional than try-hard. 

The Pharrell

Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.

Pharrell Williams knows how to put on a show. The man is a multi-award-winning musician after all, with style chops to boot. Louis Vuitton, however, is a beast of its own and the pressure to deliver as creative director of its men's universe is certainly significant, to say the least. Williams' debut, while a spectacle, was also a showcase of his knowledge of image-making. 

The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is rife with elements even the most casual follower of Williams would be familiar with. And that's because one can imagine Williams wearing almost every look, down to the pearl accessories. It's the short suits and coordinates, the tasteful use of jewellery and accessories (and at times a merging of both) as well as the sharp tailoring—everything feels very Williams.

That the collection looks like it exited Williams' personal wardrobe would've been an issue if not for the way he incorporated Louis Vuitton signatures. The Damier is reinvigorated with a camouflage treatment and in some instances, decorated with his penchant for pearls. The LV Monogram gets significant real estate throughout the collection (what "quiet luxury"?) on the reworked bags that are made with a softer and more pliable construction.

There's also a continuation of the legacy that the late Virgil Abloh set as a precedent during his time as creative director. The casting is diverse—ethnicity, body size, age and gender—and the collection feels like it could be worn by just about anyone from any part of the world. If anything, for that alone, Williams' debut is every bit the success that Louis Vuitton was banking on. 

Who needs a hand to hold

...when you have a bag that's more comfortable to the touch. Williams may have been on to something when he switched up the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy to be less of a structured bag. The reimagined Speedy P9 is made with naturally supple-grained calfskin and completely lined with lambskin leather. The effect is a buttery soft feel that responds to every touch and is comfortable enough to hug as a clutch.

Prada.
Prada.
Prada.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Bottega Veneta.

The Speedy P9 isn't the only big and soft carrier of the season. Even within the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, the more traditionally constructed Speedy 50s offer a similar size-and-feel factor. At Prada, leather travel and tote bags are supersized and with such a supple composition that they're carried on the runway as though they're designed strapless. 

Perhaps the most outrageous of them all is Bottega Veneta's thoroughly oversized drawstring duffel. It stands as tall as half a typical human male model. It's decadently crafted out of exotic skin and for obvious reasons, you'd probably never want to let go of this one. 

Sliding in

Burberry.

This may perhaps be the new luxury fashion version of the much-maligned Crocs—you either hate it or love it. Among Burberry's offering of footwear for its Summer 2024 collection come slides that are part mules and part loafers. 

Look, we get it; this is probably not for everyone but hear us out. Each pair is embellished with crystals and made of rubber, so you know that they're going to be comfortable and perfect for the tropical climate. The uppers are also perforated 

with a detachable Equestrian Knight Design charm. Position it wherever you want for an offbeat look. 

It actually does look great with a pair of socks in the same colour family. Although we might lose the charm for a more streamlined aesthetic. It's one of those things that you wouldn't immediately gravitate towards but give it a few wears and this is one pair you'd be glad to have in your collection. But like everything else thus far this season, you do you. 

The soft approach

The idea of utility has always been prevalent in menswear. While its use is seen in pieces made primarily for the outdoors, a hybridisation has been happening of late, thanks in part to streetwear's influence. The treatment however, has often been rugged and hardy with a clear leaning to its roots, but for Spring/Summer 2024 we're seeing a shift. 

While not exactly crafted from the most precious of materials, the season's take on utilitarian fashion is softer in make while still retaining its functional aspect. Givenchy, for example, reduced the number of pockets on its gilet to two main zipped compartments that make up almost half of the entire piece of clothing. It's also made from a lightweight nylon material for easier wear during the summer months.

Emporio Armani.
Emporio Armani.
Versace.
Kenzo.
Tod's.
Tod's.
Givenchy.
Givenchy.
Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen.
Prada.
Prada.

Similarly, Berluti's lightweight technical-inspired blazer adopts the weather-resistant capabilities of nylon. Add to it, the nifty patch pockets finished with reinforced seams and chest zipped slots that are beautifully topped with leather pull tabs. They're key design elements that are also seen in a swathe of the collection's outerwear, including on a suede bomber.

If Givenchy's gilet isn't up to task to meet your OCD tendencies, Prada's option offers the kind of organised functionality you'd expect from a military-grade gilet. Except it's rendered in a hue that's more fashion-forward than forest-friendly. For those who prefer their utilitarian pieces in the thinnest fabric possible, Emporio Armani's translucent proposals make for stellar investments. Just keep in mind to wear something under though.

Read on for part two of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.

Climbing behind the wheel of an expensive car does something to a man. The exact brain chemistry, I can’t say. Perhaps it’s the sudden grip of power; the adrenalised unpredictability. Or, maybe, the increased likelihood that you'd catch the eye of anyone when you toss the keys to the valet. As someone who has previously shown an unwavering indifference to automobiles his entire life, for the first time I finally understood.

The Bentley Flying Spur Hybrid is the first hybrid ever made by Bentley. Powered by both electric battery and petrol it's a different hybrid symbiosis when driving it. A hybrid of heaven and hell. Heaven, for its robust smoothness and opulent interiors; and hell, for the feeling of devilish omnipotence that hijacks the person gripping the wheel.

A Childhood Memory

Having grown up in Los Angeles, the familiar image of a Bentley gliding down PCH is one tattooed across my psyche. But driving one myself? Please. That is a privilege reserved for those whose business cards have CEO in the title. Those with rocks on their fingers the size of walnuts. People with Sir Richard Branson on speed dial and who rent out the entire Beverly Hills hotel on 4 July because they didn’t want to be disturbed during breakfast. It’s a car reserved for those who do in a world of those who don’t.

As I drove this immaculate piece of machinery down the spidery highways of Dubai to pick up two unsuspecting girl-friends visiting from London—let’s call them M and N—I pulled up to the front of their hotel. Their mirrored expressions of incredulous wonder told me everything I needed to know.

“Is this your car, Anton?!”

Sure, I may have been guilty of letting the story marinate for an hour or so, but as our friendship dates back nearly a decade. Eventually, they saw through my charade. Still. Bolting through Dubai in a Bentley on our way to Hakkasan for dinner wasn’t so terrible.

A Bentley is like an award. It’s something you earn after years of hard work and dedication. Something the universe grants you when it feels you are finally deserving of such prestige. This is where you get to park right by the entrance, letting others know that it is a restaurant worth eating at, and you are worth eating there.

Growing up, I had a friend whose parents owned, among many other things, two private jets and a yacht. They also had a white show-poodle named Bentley. I used to think that was silly. Now I get it.

Materiality is something that Zegna is exceptionally familiar with, having established itself as a fabric producer long before dressing discerning men around the world. It has been well over 110 years since the very foundations of Zegna were laid and the brand continues to innovate—both in its use of materials crafted with luxurious handfeel as well as its level of craftsmanship.

The Zegna Triple Stitch is the marriage of those two facets of innovations. This is a shoe that's relatively minimal in its aesthetic. Especially when compared to the other footwear designs out there in the luxury fashion space. An existing style reworked by artistic director Alessandro Sartori in 2019, the shoes remained a staple of Zegna's wardrobe since. Sartori's directional idea of menswear, specifically tailoring, as existing in the realm of both casual and formal is extended to the Triple Stitch. It's not exactly a sneaker nor is it a formal shoe—it's neither and somewhat both at the same time. 

Like every stellar silhouette, the Triple Stitch has gone through a number of variations and technical improvements since its introduction. Its signature trio of elastic crosses right at the shoe's tongue, however, have stayed unchanged albeit rendered in different colours.

SECONDSKIN

The Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN is the latest and perhaps the most technical interpretation by Zegna. As its name suggests, this update feels incredibly soft and supple—like second skin. And it's not as though the Triple Stitch wasn't already a comfortable pair of shoes to begin with. For the SECONDSKIN variation, it takes it up a few notches. This time by heightening the luxurious feel of the shoe.

The inspiration for the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN came from tapping on the durability and exceptional lightness of leather typically reserved for gloves. But to fully incorporate the best characteristics of glove leather, the Triple Stitch had to first be deconstructed. The airy, lightweight appeal of the glove leather has been put into focus with a newly designed toe counter as well as a Strobel construction. The latter is typically seen in athletic sneakers and is further improved in the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN with fine lining.

The result is undoubtedly, the softest and lightest Triple Stitch yet. The glove leather-tanning technique imbues the shoe with a texture that offers a form-retaining feel. At the same time, it enhances the natural strength and durability of the leather. They’re attributes that one would normally associate with technical footwear. But here, just like Sartori’s menswear, they craft a new creation that looks and feel like it’s of two worlds.

Louis Vuitton has been busy of late. An ambassador announcement, a recent AW24 Menswear showcase and now, an LV-launched chocolate shop on our shores. It seems odd that the brand known for their steamer trunks would dip their toes (or fingers) into chocolate. But having taste the results, it'd seem that the Maison has another winner on its hands.

The opening of Le Chocolat Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton at Marina Bay Sands, marks the debut of the confectionary store beyond its French borders. Created and produced by Maxime Frédéric, the celebrated Chef Pâtissier of the Cheval Blanc Paris, the chocolates are made with premium ingredients in the heart of Paris.

The Chef

Hailing from Normandy, Chef Frédéric draws from the wisdom of les secrets de nos vergers (the secrets of the orchards). From his farm's chicken breeds to the special hazelnut variety he cultivates, each ingredient is chosen for its distinct flavour. When not sourced directly from his farm, he opts for top-tier supplies, like milk from his friends operating a dairy farm in Normandy. Chocolates are also sourced from small-scale cocoa farmers in Vietnam, Peru, Madagascar, Dominican Republic and São Tome.

Chef Frédéric met with the artisans behind the emblematic LV trunks at the historic home of Louis Vuitton in Asnières. Seeing how the brand upholds craftsmanship, Chef Frédéric said that he saw "a lot of similarities between his work in patisseries and the work of the LV artisans". "Whether it’s a woodworker or a locksmith for the trunks. It’s about handcrafted workmanship," Chef Frédéric says, "and that’s completely in line with our work as artisan pastry chefs, bakers and chocolatiers.” 

With prices starting at SGD30, these exquisite chocolates offer an unexpectedly accessible taste of luxury. Like the Damier-shaped Chocolate Tablets, Monogram Flower... even the Chocolate Bar, each piece is inspired by Louis Vuitton's iconic motifs. They bring across a sense of child-like wonderment and are as delightful as they are indulgent.

His centrepiece creations—Vivienne on Malle and the Petula—showcase his ingenuity and mastery in chocolate craftsmanship. Inspired by the Vivienne music box, the Vivienne on Malle (SGD420) is confection wonder. Made of intricate chocolate gear mechanisms thanks to Chef Frédéric's construction, a twist of the chocolate key, Vivienne pirouettes.

The Petula (SGD230), another iconic mascot from Louis Vuitton, also brings an enchanting surprise for clients. Designed like a piñata, each Petula chocolate figure is generously filled with coated hazelnuts. Whack one open and watch the contents spill out. 

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