To honour Loewe's origins as a collective craft workshop established in 1846, the Loewe Foundation held its inaugural Craft Prize competition in 2016 to showcase and celebrate modern craft excellence and has since become an annual tradition.
The House seeks to recognise the significance of craftsmanship in contemporary culture by appreciating talent, vision, and innovation. "Craft is always going to be modern. It is about creating objects that have a formula of their own and speak their own language, creating a dialogue that didn't exist before. It is about newness as much as it is about tradition," says Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson.
Just like the previous years, Loewe Foundation has opened up submissions for the next instalment of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize—submissions will be accepted until 30 October 2024. Working in a craft-based profession and above 18? Congrats! You're eligible to apply, and the eventual winner will be awarded with EUR50,000, while two special mentions will each receive EUR5,000.
The award ceremony will then be held next spring at the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum in Madrid and a distinguished panel of artists, essayists, and curators will judge the submissions, selecting a shortlist of 30 entries. Their decisions will be based on criteria such as originality, clear artistic vision, exceptional craftsmanship, material excellence, innovative value, and distinct authorial mark.
For the most recent edition of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize saw Andrés Anza's "I only know what I have seen" claim the top spot. The sculpture was crafted from glazed refractory clay adorned with countless small, pointed protrusions that drew inspiration from organic forms. Its quasi-human presence is a blend of figurative and abstract elements, appearing to twist and fold inward upon itself.
In addition to the prize winner, the jury also recognised three special mentions: "Still Life" by Miki Asai, was praised for its intricate and monumental essence by using lacquer and eggshell fragments;
"#16" by Heechan Kim who crafted a sculptural vase using traditional boat-making techniques;
and lastly, "Coffee Table 'Comme un lego'" by Emmanuel Boos that's made from porcelain bricks that can be individually removed from the structure.
Apply for the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize here.
Creative director Jonathan Anderson is one of the leading designers of his generation, earning both critical acclaim and commercial success since his appointment at Loewe in September 2013. Under his leadership, Loewe has embraced significant change. Each collection reflects a dedication to art, craftsmanship, design, and fashion. Loewe continues to evoke emotions, with artisanal know-how and the human touch always present.
The previous Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show, centred on how points of view define perceptions and scales, and how they draw silhouettes—highlighting Loewe's constant exploration of drawing inspiration from both the environment and the human mind. It will be fascinating to see where Anderson's exploration and experimentation will take us next with the upcoming show.
For confirmation of what the Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 6pm Singapore time
Miu Miu’s predominantly women-centric fashion hasn’t stopped it from encroaching into the men’s wardrobe. Those of us who lived through the 1990s may remember Miu Miu’s menswear line launched for the Spring/Summer 1999 season through to its final collection for Spring/Summer 2008. The brand has since sneakily relaunched menswear without explicitly calling it as such, but instead, began introducing a number of male models on the runway as well as offering select designs in a bigger range of sizes.
The quiet repositioning of the Miu Miu brand runs in tandem with its sneaker collaborations with New Balance. Also offered in slightly larger sizes—they go up to a IT46—each drop has progressively grown to be so coveted that they are sold out within hours on official launch days, despite the hype around sneakers no longer being what it was years ago. Miu Miu’s collaboration with Church’s that began for the Autumn/Winter 2023 season also followed suit.
The marketing strategy for Miu Miu has in turn, shifted to skew towards a genderless approach. Musician and actor Troye Sivan walked the Spring/Summer 2024 runway show, and in Singapore, the brand has expanded its roster of influencers to include those who identify as male.
As slow and steady (and subtle) as Miu Miu’s renaissance has been, it has undoubtedly worked to its favour. Like an unforgettable earworm, Miu Miu has grown to be at the top of consumers’ minds. The Lyst Index—a quarterly report of the “hottest” brands as tracked by fashion technology company Lyst—sees Miu Miu climbing up a rank, replacing sister brand Prada as the number one brand for the first quarter of 2024. It’s a stark contrast from two years ago when Miu Miu didn’t even make the list’s top 20. The brand only managed to crack the list for the last quarter of 2021 and has remained on it since.
The Lyst Index has grown to be an industry-accepted indicator of a luxury fashion brand’s popularity. The platform boasts at least 200 million users annually and is primarily used to search for fashion items across multiple e-commerce sites. Think of Lyst as the fashion equivalent of Skyscanner. A quick search on Lyst results in a seemingly endless number of, well, listings of the same item available on online stockists ranging from SSENSE to Harrods. This data is part of the information Lyst collects in order to form its quarterly The Lyst Index. Lyst also takes into account searches outside of its own platform as well as social media statistics for a more rounded view of consumer trends.
The reality is that the business of fashion isn’t a bubble contained to just how a product is moving or not. Much of a brand’s popularity is due to a combination of external factors as well. In the case of Miu Miu, its Spring/Summer 2022 collection became a kind of cultural phenomenon owed to its Noughties-inspired aesthetic of branded boxers peeking through the tiniest of bottoms. It became such a hit that the collection graced multiple editorial magazine covers and fashion spreads—the latter at times featured on hyper-masculine male models. For Halloween the year of the collection’s runway show, it became a viral sensation after recreations of the now-signature Miu Miu look made the rounds on social media.
Gucci’s ranking on The Lyst Index proves that sales figures don’t exactly maketh a brand’s popularity. The Italian fashion house maintains its 11th position on the list, buoyed by the campaign launch of creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first Ancora collection, his first menswear show in January, a Horsebit campaign featuring actor Kingsley Ben-Adir, and more. Lyst also notes a 10 per cent increase of searches (as compared to the previous quarter) for Gucci accessories among its users following the Autumn/Winter 2024 womenswear runway show in February.
However, financially, the figures tell a different story. Gucci parent company Kering Group reported an 18 per cent decline on Gucci’s revenue for the first quarter of 2024. Its revenue across its direct retail operations as well as its wholesale business both suffered a hit. At the same time, Kering Group proffers that De Sarno’s first collection (dropped from mid-February) “have been very well received, particularly in the ready-to-wear and shoes categories”—although it did not disclose the metric used to come to this conclusion.
The Lyst Index isn’t the only list that has cropped up over the years. Business of Fashion released its second The BoF Brand Magic Index co-created with data insights company Quilt.AI in May 2024. Unlike The Lyst Index’s more trend-driven metrics, The BoF Brand Magic Index identifies and ranks brands based on their impact on customers. It measures this based on three metrics—alignment (how clear a brand is to customers), engagement (how effective a brand is at inspiring customers), and intent (how effective a brand drives customers to search for it). Brands are ranked based on these individual metrics; the combined scores determine their overall ranking with the lowest total at the top. The report covers a six-month period from October 2023 to March 2024.
It’s not surprising that given the differing methodologies used in both reports, the results are different. The BoF Brand Magic Index determines the alignment metric by using Quilt.AI’s proprietary AI models that detects content by both brands and customers, categorising them based on 12 Jungian archetypes, and determine similarities between the two. It’s this consistency between brand and customer content that ranks Dior, Balmain and Tod’s as the top three for alignment—their brand values are being received and replicated by their target audience. Business of Fashion believes that “alignment is a leading indicator of commercial success” in the long-run.
Take it this way, there is reason why Beyoncé and Taylor Swift are two of the biggest musicians in the world right now. One can argue that the songs are not immediately addictive such that they would be stuck in a person’s head all the time, but the concepts and storytelling surrounding their albums draw people in. It’s this overarching narrative beyond the songs and lyrics that keep people talking and engaged. The same goes for luxury fashion. Fashion has grown to be more than just good, wearable design—how it’s being communicated and marketed play important roles on the success.
This is the reason why brands like Jacquemus and Loewe have constantly managed to be talked about both for their collections as well as the stories built around them. Jacquemus, for example, drives virality with its uniquely shaped products such as a literal Nike Swoosh crossbody bag and impossibly tiny bags that spawned a multitude of memes, while at the same time, working with artists to stir online conversations via eye-catching stunts. An eight-second clip in 2023 of vehicle-sized Jacquemus bags seen driving around Paris was so realistic (it was the work of a 3D artist) that it had people questioning if it was a real-life brand activation, because it felt pretty much in line with what Jacquemus would do.
Loewe’s consistent craft-centric approach to all it does translates exceptionally well on social media where it breaks down the make of an item—all without revealing too much of its in-house secrets—for all to witness. But at the same time, its constant dabble with the art world and surrealism allows it the freedom to not take itself too seriously. The brand has crafted a niche on TikTok where it works with content creators, giving them carte blanche to create content in their own vision. At the same time, its own campaigns aren’t typical product pushes, but instead rely on creative storytelling while embedding the collections into them.
Good design and storytelling are most often related although not necessarily so. As much as there are the Beyoncés and Taylor Swifts of the fashion world, there are the legends—the Mariah Careys, the U2s, and the Stevie Wonders that don’t necessarily partake in the hit-making agenda. Instead, they have built such strong legacies that they don’t have to market as much to be desirable. You’d go to a concert by these legendary musicians clamouring more for their best hits from decades ago than their newer releases. It’s not that the new songs are not great, but rather, the old ones carry such weight and are just so eternally beloved. And these legends were the blueprint of greatness at one point and have influenced generations after.
Hermès, Chanel and even Louis Vuitton are such brands. The latter is constantly on the top 20 of any list because it continues to enact creative change in the contemporary sense, but just like Hermès and Chanel, the Louis Vuitton name is already historically synonymous with luxury that the desirability is always top-of-mind. You don’t necessarily see Hermès and Chanel aiming to create viral content or use marketing gimmicks to draw attention—they’re just simply not on-brand.
There’s undoubtedly a need for fashion brands to be more all-rounded in their approach to create desirability in order to cut through the noise. We are living in a society where access to information is wide and getting hold of our attention increasingly becomes a difficult task as swiping through content after content has come to be almost second nature. The existing fandoms will stay for the new releases but it’s attracting a new audience to listen in and be part of the community that takes real work, especially for more contemporary brands.
Being at the top—whether it’s for the quarter or the half—is how one deciphers the position. Fashion moves at such a fast pace these days (even for luxury fashion) that the rankings can fluctuate quite dramatically. It means little to have a viral accessory or moment that spikes engagement and interest, unless a brand takes the step to develop the narrative further.
At the end of the day, it is consistency in both design and narrative that are key in creating any meaningful impact on a bigger scale and for a longer time. No brand wants to be a one-hit wonder; every brand wants an evergreen discography to bank on for years to come.
In season five of Friends, there's an episode aptly titled "The One With Joey's Bag". The central narrative was of Joey Tribbiani (played by Matt LeBlanc), having received a bag from Jennifer Aniston's Rachel as part of his desire to fit into a role of "a real clothes horse" that he's auditioning for, falling in love with said bag. But of course, given that it was 1999, his friends found every opportunity to ridicule him for even carrying the bag.
You'd think that the bag was in a ghastly shade of pink or a tiny purse that could barely fit anything (even so, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a man wanting to carry either) but in actual fact, it's reminiscent of a top-handle briefcase that's far from extraordinary in today's context.
How times have changed, and thankfully so.
The best bags this season are big. They're made to fit more than just the essentials, with some having the capability to be versatile enough to transition from work bag to gym bag. And of course, because we're all for longterm investments, they're crafted from sturdy and luxurious materials that'll not only last but age well too. From Loewe's latest Pebble Bucket bag to Bottega Veneta's massive tote, we've curated some of the best bags of the season made for every man that you are.
Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Grooming: Kenneth Chia using KEVIN.MURPHY and TOM FORD BEAUTY
Photography Assistant: Xie Feng Mao
Styling Assistant: Chua Xin Xuan
Model: Aaron C at MANNEQUIN
By now, the Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection has become sort of an annual tradition. The collaboration with iconic Ibizan boutique Paula's—known for its vibrant expression of island life in the 1970s—has been a consistent reinvigoration of its archival prints as well as an encapsulation of unbridled joy. For the latest 2024 edition, Loewe takes it up a notch with a collection that takes it away from its island beginnings to a more urban setting while still retaining that carefree spirit.
To help bring the Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection to life, the brand employed the assist of six international creatives. Latin trap star Young Miko, American musicians Kevin Abstract, Yebba Smith and 070 Shake, Irish actress Alison Oliver, as well as Loewe global brand ambassador and NCT member TAEYONG, all embody the youthful energy of the collection that's made for summertime. Whether it's spent in the city, away on vacation or to countless music festivals, the collection has all the makings of the perfect summer wardrobe topped with a healthy dose of craft-centric accessories to boot.
Signature to every Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection is the use of prints. This time, Loewe introduces artist Douglas Abraham whose abstract prints consisting of dice, teddy bear and planet motifs are juxtaposed with the more naturalistic archival prints of flora and fauna. They're all applied onto the collection's ready-to-wear pieces including Loewe Anagram-branded T-shirts, roomy drawstring shorts, sweatshirts, and swimwear. Supplemented by an array of generally loose-fit tops and bottoms, ease and comfort inspired by a decidedly aesthetic are key tenets of the menswear portion of the Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection.
It's in the bags and accessories that Loewe's penchant for craft is highlighted. Woven basketry—a signature of the brand, especially when it comes to the Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection—reimagines the Puzzle bag and Puzzle Fold tote. The latter still retains its iconic flat, foldable characteristic despite being crafted from the stiffer raffia material. The Font tote and Iraca basket bag make their return in a slew of new colours in line with the ready-to-wear portion.
Loewe's leather mastery recontextualises its signature Flamenco design into a bucket bag silhouette that's crafted from nappa lambskin and with a solid base. Playful leather accessories complete the offering with charms and pouches shaped into animals such as a toucan and parrot, as well as tropical fruits.
There's no denying that every edition of the Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection thus far has been a joyous celebration of life and craft. The brand has also made sure that the communities involved in contributing their craft expertise too gain from the experience. As with every Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection, for every basket bag sold, Loewe will make a donation to the local communities who handweave them. These donations will then go towards providing university scholarships in Columbia, building a craft training school in Madagascar, and providing humanitarian relief following the 2023 earthquake in Morocco.
The Loewe Paula's Ibiza collection will be available in Loewe boutiques and online from 18 April 2024. View some of the bags, shoes and accessories of the collection in the gallery below.
Loewe isn't just a luxury fashion brand. It's a cultural brand that has—since under the creative directorship of Jonathan Anderson—instilled an even greater importance on craft, including from realms outside of the traditional fashion sphere. Through its many collaborations as well as in-house collections, Loewe continues to give prominence the skill of the hand from within its own studios as well as from cultures around the world.
It may seem like a marketing spiel, this idea of a luxury fashion brand being more than creating products to sell. Yet, the proof is in the way Loewe operates. Its social media platforms delve deeper into how a product is crafted by showing a brief run through of the process, while collection notes often detail the craft behind each collection. Separately, Loewe has its annual Loewe Foundation Craft Prize showcasing and awarding the many different works of craft the world over.
Crafted World is in itself a collaborative effort. The exhibition was designed in collaboration with famed design studio OMA with each thematic chapter varying in interactivity and scale. "Born from the Hand", for example, tells the story of Loewe's evolution from its leather-making roots to its current contemporary fashion leanings as seen through the showcase of key products such as first-edition signature bags to costumes made in collaboration with Anthea Hamilton. "The Atelier" quite literally transports visitors behind the scenes to discover the many steps needed to craft Loewe's most iconic bags, with the journey ending with a two-metre-tall recreation of the Howl’s Moving Castle bag. Along the way, Crafted World offers plenty of surprises including knee-high exhibits thoughtfully conceptualised for children to interact with.
And once visitors are done exploring the six thematic chapters, a specially curated gift shop filled with exclusive merchandise and books, lets the magic continue at home. But that's not all. Crafted World continues onto the courtyard with a number of Galician artisan Álvaro Leiro's reinterpretations of the traditional, fringed Galician raincoats woven from reeds, straw and briar.
The free-to-public exhibition comes as Anderson hit his 10-year mark as creative director of Loewe last year—a rarity in today's climate of creative directors not lasting more than three years. Plenty of credit should be given to the man for reinvigorating Loewe into one of the most exciting luxury brands out there; as should the artisans whose works are the cornerstone of Loewe. Crafted World does just that.
Crafted World runs until 5 May 2024 at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre before making its way around the world.
There's no doubt that Loewe is one of the hottest shows on any fashion week calendar. Not only do the stars come out in the droves to witness the fashion conceptualised by creative director Jonathan Anderson, the fanfare goes beyond the celebrity front rows—the fashion is actually inspiring and different.
For any confirmation of what the Loewe Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Loewe Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 20 January 2024 at 7pm Singapore time
It's that time when the editorial staff get to ruminate about what this year has given us. From the products that impressed the pants off of us to the drinks that got us asking for seconds, this Christmas, we present some of our favourite things that have our stamps of approval.
We don't like being a "sheeple" but every time we think of switching to another smartphone, the annual Apple keynote keeps us anchored to the next model. The iPhone 15 Pro series had new additions: a faster A17 chip; an upgraded camera technology; a Dynamic Island in place of that damnable notch; a titanium casing... But the biggest "OMG finally" news is the phasing out of the brand's propriety Lightning connector for the USB-C (thanks EC laws!). All in all, the iPhone 15 Pro is enough to keep us enamoured until the next Apple keynote.
You know an item’s a winner when it’s pretty much unavailable in boutiques islandwide (trust me, I’ve checked, multiple times). There’s just something about Loewe’s Anagram denim jeans that makes it a covetable piece. Perhaps it’s the simplicity of the Anagram motif right on the knees; or the draw of brand ambassador Taeyong of NCT wearing one for the brand’s Pre-Spring 2024 campaign. Either way, this is high on the list of things I’d recommend (someone) getting (for us).
“CarbonGold” is a mix of high-tech carbon and gold elements that was first introduced in 1993. Bulgari recently outfitted the Octo Finissimo Automatic with said material but the maison went further with that by adorning the carbon cases with rose gold crowns and the carbon dial with matching gold-coloured accents. The case, strap and dial are crafted from exceptionally lightweight, anthracite-coloured carbon with a matte finish. Gold bridges and a gold-plated platinum off-centred micro-rotor is added to the automatic winding; this clearly is a thing of beauty.
In a time when Xiaomi and Dreame are already putting out their own robovacuum, Dyson is pretty late to the game. But for a company that is stringent about its tech, the delay is warranted. The 360 Vis Nav model has the brand's patented cyclone tech, which has 65AW of suction power and automatically uses more suction power when more dust is detected; meaning EVERYTHING that gets in the machine's path gets sucked up. And, unlike the other robovaccums on the market, the machine's camera is situated on top; which scans its surroundings and maps out your home. It's the most expensive robovacuum on the market but the engineering is worth every penny.
For a brand known for its outdoorsy ruggedness, it made perfect sense that Luminox and survivalist, Bear Grylls' paths would intertwine. The team-up yields the Mountain Series, a collection of four watches that marks the 25th year of Grylls' 1998 climb of Mount Everest. The limited edition version has a white dial, deep blue strap and a red crown that matches the hues of the Nepal flag. The caseback is etched with Mount Everest itself and the chapter ring with “8848M”, which as you Everestheads would clue to is the mountain's altitude. With only 800 pieces worldwide, the Limited Edition Mountain timepiece also has a removable bull bar to protect the dial. And with it's highlighted with Luminox’s Light Technology, which ensures every Luminox timepiece is visible in any light conditions for up to 25 years.
The perfect cropped hoodie exists and it’s by Entire Studios. The Los Angeles-based brand is known for its exaggerated puffer jackets but the hoodies are cut quite beautifully too. Designed cropped and with extended sleeves, it’s the perfect hoodie to layer over just about anything, or not. Upgrade your usual airport fit for this and you’d probably never want to wear anything else when travelling.
We raved about Jabra's Elite 7 Active but the newer version really takes the cake. We had previous earbuds that we use for running and they never could stay in the ears. Especially, when they hit the ground, they tend to get scraped up (you'll be missed Klipsch T5). Jabra's Elite 8 Active is marketed as the world's most durable earbuds and buddy... they are right. The Elite 8 Active went through nine US military-grade testings. Nine. Do you know how tough your product has to be to get that sorta certification? And you know how certain products are "water resistant"? The Elite 8 Active is WATERPROOF. Sweat, rain, submersion, waterboarding... these earbuds can weather whatever wetness you throw at it. And the cherry on top? Their patented Jabra ShakeGrip trait (a Liquid Silicon Rubber compound) kept these suckers firmly in my ears. Oh, and add to that are the Dolby-powered 6mm speakers; an Adaptive Hybrid ANC and HearThrough feature really round up the Elite 8 Active. We can't recommend this enough.
We still stand by the superiority of ear cuffs—there’s no needless skin-poking and you can always take them off whenever. This duo-gold Chanel ear cuff sits comfortably right at the top of the ear to give an illusion of wearing two cuffs at the same time. We’d pair it with another cuff towards the lobe for added bling but just the one on its own makes for an edgy statement this Christmas.
'Tis that season where it is acceptable to open up that celebratory wine ("What can we say, we're traditionalists"). But wine is the sort of drink that requires a commitment to polishing the entire thing off. That's where Coravin comes in handy. Its Timeless range is a wine preserver. Without uncorking the bottle, the Timeless device uses a hollow needle to extract the wine by perforating the cork. It also fills the bottle with argon gas to pressurise it, keeping it as fresh as the day it was bottled. When the needle is removed, the cork reseals, protecting the wine from oxidation. Now in two new limited-edition colourways that are inspired by exploration—Timeless Three+ in Deep Sea Blue (shown in pic) and Timeless Six+ in Mist—the Coravin allows us to savour our bottles at our own pace.
Not quite ugly and not quite a Christmas jumper, but the Radar jumper by OAMC is the kind of statement piece you’d want to bust out every winter travel. The cut is perfection, amplified by structured raglan sleeves that display the radar-inspired design to its full effect. Sure, it’s a bit pricey for something partly made from polyester but you’re really paying for the design and cut with this one.
The average Woodford Reserve 750ml is a tasty treat in a glass but do you ever wanna drink in style? Like real opulent-like? Welp, there's the Woodford Reserve's Baccarat Edition. This is an experience at PLUME. Order yourself a Birds of Baccarat cocktail where you have your Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition—a masterful mix of select XO Cognac barrels (American and French oak)—that's mixed with saffron, cinnamon, manuka honey and garnished gold flakes. And it's served in a Baccarat crystal glass. It'll cost you a pretty penny—SGD1,688++ but not only do you get a serving of the Birds of Baccarat Cocktail, you'd also take home the Baccarat glass it came in, as well as a special Baccarat crystal rabbit zodiac figurine.
You're familiar with Devialet, especially with their Mania portable speakers. Beneath these beatific shells lie its pulsing heart—the aluminium full-range drivers (4) and woofers (2). Full-range in its processing, that covers the entire audio spectrum from bass to medium to treble. The Mania's adaptive 360° sound wraps you in a tapestry of melodies; each note is experienced with clarity and depth. And now it comes in two new colourways—Sunset Rose and Sandstorm. Something for Christmas, surely?
A spirits brand with a lifestyle collection with Stella and Mary McCartney? Yes, please. The curated set called TOGETHER, drew inspiration from nature. It includes vibrant handmade glassware, an ombre ceramic flask encased in an apple leather alternative sleeve, brass ice stamps with hand-painted ceramic handles and a brass napkin weight shaped like an acorn—a tribute to the oak casks maturing The Macallan whisky. And if homeware isn't up your alley, there's always the third edition of The Harmony Collection, which features two distinctive expressions: Amber Meadow and Green Meadow.
If you’re like us and you’ve grown up on all the commercially driven lore of Christmas—Santa, elves, reindeers and whatnot—you’d appreciate Swarovski’s latest Christmas-themed collection. The Holiday Cheers line features a range of icons crafted from crystals that’ll sit pretty all year round. And because Swarovski makes them different year after year, here’s to starting a new collection.
Grail may have underwent a rebrand but it still retains its firm commitment to sustainability. Another surprise from this local brand: the sunscreen (pictured, second from left). Made with a unique eco-friendly formula, it doesn't have that thick sticky residue that your conventional sunscreen has. The application of the Daily SPF 50+++ (maybe someone should come up with a simpler name?) is so light that it almost feels like there was nothing slathered on to begin with.
If you haven’t already noticed, pre-collections are becoming a big deal in menswear. We recently witnessed Louis Vuitton’s first-ever pre-autumn runway show—a 64-look sophomore collection by creative director Pharrell Williams. Dior Men is also set to showcase its Pre-Autumn 2024 collection in Hong Kong next year, having successively travelled the globe to stage runway shows for its pre-collections.
Pre-collection runway shows have typically been a womenswear tradition, and it makes sense given the much more robust womenswear market. But we like new, shiny things too and luxury brands are noticing that we’re just as easily bored by the same assortment in boutiques lasting for a six-month period. The pomp and circumstance of a runway show helps to drum up even more excitement for a collection that’s designed to be a commercial filler before the arrival of the main seasonal collection.
The trick to making sure that you are not simply purchasing something from a pre-collection for the sake of filling up an empty slot in your wardrobe (or your heart; time for therapy, my man) is to gravitate towards pieces that traipse the line between classic and fashion-forward. There’s no point in getting a beefed-up version of something familiar only to shelve it because it’s not one you’d wear for more than a photo op.
From Dior Men to Loewe, here are the things to go for if you want to make smart consumer choices. It’s giving I-love-new-things-but-I’m-curated energy.
Balenciaga’s push for an oversized everything aesthetic has become part of Demna’s oeuvre ever since he took on the role as creative director of the fashion house. And it’s a look that has been employed throughout the House, from ready-to-wear to couture. This consistency means that any Balenciaga piece could very easily transcend the season because of its timeless design that’s part of an overarching narrative.
For Balenciaga’s Spring 2024 collection, the range is wide with everything from casual separates to more formal albeit avant-garde tailoring. There’s even the now-viral Towel-Skirt—essentially a skirt layer that resembles a towel—in the mix. But it is the cheekily designed denim coordinates that deserve serious attention.
The Denim Size Sticker jacket and trousers are deliciously baggy but in a way that still retains some semblance of tailoring. You definitely won’t look like you’re drowning in them. They’re also made from washed denim to give that decidedly worn look. The main draw however—and one that gives each piece its name—is the addition of a size sticker (the kind you’d find on mass-produced denims and certain other types of clothing) featured both as a print and an embellishment.
It’s not about displaying the size of your denims to every passerby; it’s about having a smidgen of stupid fun in a piece that you’d easily wear every single day. A good, oversized denim jacket may be hard to find, and these Balenciaga options make the wardrobe staple a bit more interesting.
The art of craft is central to the design ethos of Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe. Whether that’s done by
exploring the boundaries of the house’s own artisans or collaborating and introducing craftsmanship techniques externally, Loewe’s collaborations are often teeming with the new ideas that still look and feel exclusively Loewe.
Its latest collaborative effort for the season comes in the form of a partnership with Suna Fujita. The Kyoto-based ceramic studio’s work dabbles in interpreting childhood memories and richly imaginative characters and scenes that are then painted onto their ceramic creations. These characters include a menagerie of animals such as pandas, penguins, lemurs, otters and more.
For Loewe, these artworks are translated in a number of ways from glass ornaments to plush fobs to embellishments on knitwear. The easiest to incorporate—and one you’d want to keep for a verylong time—is the collaboration’s take on Loewe’s classic Flamenco clutch.
The Loewe x Suna Fujita Flamenco clutch comes in a mini size in two different variations. From the outside, the Flamenco clutch looks exactly like the original with either the Bottle Green- or Oak-coloured option. The beauty is hidden inside: the former features a family of pandas, while the Oak-coloured version captures a playful scene of a trio of lemurs. The printed motifs are also replicated on the lining of each design for visuals that only the user will be privy to.
There are quite a few things that Alexander McQueen is known for, and one of them is dramatic flair. It’s apparent in every single facet of the brand’s design. Suiting is no mere average affair—the make employs traditional savoir-faire but elevated to perfection with awe-inspiring embellishments and impeccable cuts.
A dragonfly crafted from crystal embroidery is featured prominently on a black wool double-breasted
blazer paired with double-pleated wide-legged trousers—the latter is perfectly cut and a departure from the brand’s proclivity for more fitted bottom silhouettes. For a more pared back alternative, a fitted waistcoat is tastefully decorated with a dragonfly brooch, exuding a contemporary sense of regality.
In addition to tailoring made for the modern king, Alexander McQueen’s signature Jewelled
Satchel too has been updated. While the jewelled embellishments remain as key elements of accessory-meets-functional-bag, the satchel’s body has been interpreted in nylon with a webbing strap. The Nylon Jewelled Satchel is definitely hardier and less precious in nature as compared to its leather predecessors, but captures a beautiful juxtaposition between utilitarian functionality and luxury. Basically, you can simply wipe moisture right off after an accidental spill.
Every Kim Jones-directed Dior Men collection is a masterclass in styling. Yes, the foundations of his ready-to-wear collections are meticulously crafted with such refined elegance. But the styling is what pulls everything together and makes every single look desirable.
If you’re already a Dior Men fan, you would probably own a number of the House’s contemporary tailoring, some casual denims, and perhaps a slew of accessories including the classic reworked Saddle bag for men. Level up a few notches with the Dior Men Spring 2024 collection’s selection of costume jewellery.
What sets the costume jewellery apart this pre-collection is the varied selection available. Classics such as the CD Icon series of chains, rings and earrings remain, coming in with bejewelled permutations and lengths. The collection’s more exceptional pieces come in the form of motifs inspired by the Buffalo movement of the ’80s. Adorned with crystals are a variety of star-shaped motifs that capture the rebellious spirit of the movement. The designs are interpreted as brooches, earrings, pendants and even an impressive chain belt that features a combination of different motifs.
Gucci’s Pre-Spring 2024 collection wasn’t designed by latest creative director Sabato De Sarno, but rather, by Gucci’s in-house collective of artisans. That, however, doesn’t mean that the collection isn’t without its bright sparks. In fact, the collection’s reimagining of the Horsebit 1955 bag is probably the freshest yet.
The Horsebit 1955 bag is a Gucci classic. Crafted from sturdy leather, it’s boxy and rectangular with a roomy interior and topped with that signature Gucci Horsebit metal adornment positioned front and centre. The Pre-Spring 2024 interpretation skews and distorts the proportions of the original, resulting in a piece that’s spellbindingly odd in the best way possible. See, the thing about the original is that, while it’s a classic shape that’s easily paired with just about anything, there’s very little to be excited about. The reimagining cleverly creates an asymmetric construction that tapers to the side. The genius comes with the attention to detail: the size of the D-ring on the shorter end of the bag’s side is also significantly smaller than its counterpart.
There’s hardly any indication that De Sarno may adopt the design as part of his vision. So if anything, this is one piece to cherish because it probably won’t be reproduced anytime soon.
Not many things are as discreet yet instantly recognisable in fashion as Bottega Veneta’s Intrecciato technique. The weaving of leather strips to form the basis of a range of creations has been the house’s key leitmotif, the attempt to do so by other would often immediately be thought of as a copy.
Creative director Matthieu Blazy’s more modern interpretations of the technique has resulted in a number of pieces that have challenged the limitations of the Intrecciato. For starters, the Andiamo has quickly become one of the House’s icons. Already seen on the fashion-forward Jacob Elordi, the latest iterations of the Andiamo bag focuses on the bag’s genderless quality. The large Andiamo bags now come in new colours ranging from a pale pink shade to a deeper maroon hue that makes for a roomy work bag. It’s a top-handle style that also comes with a knotted crossbody strap for added versatility.
If you’re looking for new footwear additions, then consider the Haddock lace-ups that are the way to go. Rendered in all black, it’s realised in an allover Intrecciato technique that definitely elevates the look of a traditional lace-up. And of course, a pair that really does all the talking without needing to scream.
Just like the Gucci Pre-Spring 2024 collection, Louis Vuitton’s was also designed in-house. Meant to be a standalone proposal, the collection is inspired by the bonfire as a universal symbol of unification—where people gather and connect. Hence, the entire collection is plenty of flame-inspired motifs executed using a number of different treatments.
We’re gravitating towards the burnt Monogram motifs apparent in some of the collection’s denim pieces. The Monogram is iconically Louis Vuitton and this interpretation of the motif adds a level of artistry.
From a denim jacket to bermudas, each piece is handcrafted with a bleach flame effect. In order to achieve this, the denim is embellished with a velvety flock that’s burnt to reveal the allover Monogram motif of the denim. And because the burning is done individually per piece, the results vary and each piece is essentially unique to one another.
Ahead of the launch of its first-ever skiwear collection, Balenciaga has released a first look into what to expect. With a thorough focus on technical garments using innovative materials for enhanced visibility, insulation, aerodynamism, and protection in snow, the designs are undoubtedly Balenciaga as envisioned by Demna. There are the typical water-repelling treatments on outerwear and accessories as well as in-built ventilation systems. But the Balenciaga skiwear collection also introduces the Alaska Boot—an oversized and stylised version of footwear developed for arctic conditions.
The Balenciaga skiwear collection is scheduled to launch on 15 November 2023.
Doyoung of K-pop group NCT is now officially the global ambassador for Dolce&Gabbana. The announcement comes following his appointment as the brand's first Korea and Japan brand ambassador on 9 May of this year, as well as becoming the face of Dolce&Gabbana's Autumn/Winter 2023 collection for the region.
Talking about stars, Loewe has amped it up with a host of global faces for its Spring/Summer 2024 pre-collection campaign. Familiar faces who have worked with the brand before as well as attended its shows such as global ambassadors Josh O'Connor and Taeyong, are expectedly part of the campaign. It's the appearance of new faces Dakota Fanning, Greta Lee and fan-favourite of the Harry Potter film franchise Dame Maggie Smith. Lensed by Juergen Teller, the campaign features a host of textural contrasts and Loewe's range of new bag styles.
Supreme is at it again with another collaboration. This time around, the latest Stone Island x Supreme collaboration is a street-ready collection of co-branded pieces including down jackets, hoodies and more. Standouts include a reversible down puffer jacket and a wool-blend bouclé cardigan tagged with the Stone Island insignia right on the sleeve.
The Stone Island x Supreme capsule collection is now available at the Stone Island Marina Bay Sands Flagship.
Coming into its third season, the Inter x Moncler formalwear partnership adds a new level to its partnership. Tapping on the design sensibilities of artist Daniel Arsham, comes a limited edition run of light down jackets. The design is reminiscent of a shirt-jacket style that's popular among off-duty Inter players, crafted of course from Moncler's signature down material and bearing the brand signatures of all three collaborators. And because this is a truly exclusive collaborative piece, it is only available at Moncler’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II boutique in Milan.
I'm willing to bet that none of your sneakers have all three of the following qualities: a computer-generated midsole, Loewe's playful aesthetic, and On's high-performance technology. I'm right, aren't I? Until this week, a shoe like that wasn't even on the market. But we're in the era of the Cloudtilt now.
The sneaker featured in the second collaboration between Loewe and On comes out on October 11, and it goes above and beyond in terms of fashion and function. The sneaker is the first On lifestyle sneaker to use CloudTec Phase, a precision-engineered midsole designed by a computer that allows for more cushion and less material. Like walking on a cloud, really, if that cloud was Loewe.
In addition to being ultra-lightweight, the sneaker has a knitted upper, collaborative branding, and an EVA foam sole that aims to minimise the use of rubber, tying in with the other sustainable-minded design features, like a 99 percent recycled polyester mesh upper and packaging made from 100 percent recycled industrial materials.
If that's not enough to woo you, it gets better. The five men's Cloudtilt colourways dropping this week (All Black, All White, Forever Blue, Khaki, and Lime Green) are just the first part of the fun. In January, a second Cloudtilt drop will release more colours. But January is far away, and there's a lot of life to be lived by then. For now, get ready to start shopping on October 11.
Originally published on Esquire US
The iconic red logo unmistakably identifies the camera as a Leica. But beyond that signifier, a Leica camera is well respected for its exceptional quality, outstanding lenses, and user-friendly design. The SL2 camera doesn’t disappoint. As the only mirrorless full-frame camera, it has a customisable interface and the ability to shoot up to 187 megapixels—perfect for capturing picture-perfect moments.
The Dyson Zone Absolute+ extends the company’s endeavour to add ground breaking design to everyday items. Its entry into the sound space looks like something from Mortal Kombat. The headphones are packed with advanced noise-cancelling capabilities and a full audio spectrum, allowing you to experience the highs and lows of any playlist. But it’s the first-of-its-kind detachable filtration system that sets it apart. The electrostatic filter ensures the removal of 99 per cent of ultrafine particles, making this more than just an audio device.
Oakley is elevating its design game with this pair. Beyond the athletic practicality and style you’ve expected from any Oakley, this boasts an O Matter frame material and Sutro Lite Prizm Road that provides durability and all-day comfort. It’s perfect for sports, but you can also confidently walk around in style while shielding your eyes from the assault of UV rays.
Like something out of a sci-fi film, the egg-shaped speaker remains Devialet’s hallmark. Always at the forefront of innovation, the Phantom 1 now comes in a livery other than the original white. While the design is eye-catching, watching the woofers dance in synch with the music is another draw altogether.
A fragrance is more than just its scent—how it is housed matters too. Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria series features a unique screw-top flaçon embellished with gold honey comb trims as a nod to the house’s bee motif. Since 2022, the bottle has been produced using 15 per cent PCR glass—proof that even signature looks can be improved on using more environmentally friendly materials. In keeping with its celebration of nature, the Nerolia Vetiver Forte balances intense neroli with the smoothness of fig.
Even in the same tone as the rest of the shoe, the unmistakable check mark designates this as a Nike, a legendary AJ1 no less. Named after basketball legend Michael Jordan, the shoe remains every sneakerhead’s favourite, transcending the sport. Wear it with any outfit—whether a basketball jersey or a classic suit and white button-up shirt—and experience just how versatile it is.
Fun fact: while RIMOWA is known for its iconic grooves, they were only added 13 years after the brand launched a lightweight and durable aluminium suitcase. Rimowa’s Pilot Case is one of its flagship styles that has become a dependable travel companion for a range of creative types. It’s been recently revived with a more organised interior to help make every journey a breeze.
When Jonathan Anderson assumed the role of creative director at Loewe, the Puzzle bag was his first handbag design for the brand. The construction and details were inspired by origami, with the 75 separate pieces of leather displaying the kind of craftsmanship that Loewe continues to excel at. Like many icons, it’s been interpreted in myriad ways since, but the original remains an instantly recognisable classic.
James Bond only wears one watch, and that is the Omega Seamaster. The iconic timepiece is a testament to Omega’s exquisite watchmaking capabilities. The 75th anniversary iteration features impressive new details, like the signature summer blue wave dial with laser-engraved waves that reflect its ability to withstand the pressures of the oceanic depths—undeniably a remarkable piece of engineering.
There’s a certain taste to The Macallan that is unique to the brand. Take this Double Cask that is aged for 18 years in American and European sherry-seasoned oak. Fusing the delicate vanilla from American oak with the subtle spice of European oak, the 18YO achieves a remarkable depth of character. And with great character often comes great conversations.
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Asri Jasman
Styling Assistant: Lance Aeron