MINGYU is far more than a mononym among the K-Pop constellation; he’s a phenomenon in his own right. As a rapper, vocalist, and a key visual of the powerhouse group SEVENTEEN, the South Korean artist has become a global sensation, captivating audiences with his talent and undeniable charisma.
Known for his deep, resonant voice and razor-sharp rap delivery, attention is demanded whenever MINGYU appears on stage. His moves feel calculated, yet effortlessly cool. Beyond his artistic contributions to SEVENTEEN’s ever-evolving sound, he’s also a crucial creative force behind the scenes, lending his vision to the group’s production process and continuously pushing the boundaries of their artistry.
MINGYU’s appeal doesn’t stop at music. His countenance and poise have made him a fashion icon, landing him on the radar of fashion brands and at the forefront of their campaigns. Given his stratospheric heights, he remains down-to-earth. Perhaps, it is this personable front that has endeared him to fans worldwide.
In many ways, MINGYU is the epitome of today’s idol: he’s multidimensional, and hardworking but still relatable. We talk to him about his place in modern culture; how travel broadens his mind, music, and where he sees himself in the future, among other things.
ESQUIRE: I heard you have another engagement after this interview.
MINGYU: Yes, I have rehearsal. Our comeback is just around the corner. (This interview was conducted in early October before SEVENTEEN released their 12th mini album.)
ESQ: You have been shooting since early this morning, and now it’s almost sunset; you’re starting rehearsal tonight? Don’t tell me you’re planning to fit in a workout afterwards too.
M: Thankfully, I worked out this morning before coming to the shoot.
ESQ: Wow, how do you still look so lively? You don’t appear tired at all.
M: Photoshoots are my favourite kind of work, so that’s probably why. Today was especially fun because I got to see and try on a variety of new Dior outfits.
ESQ: It seems like you find photoshoots more enjoyable than stressful.
M: There have definitely been times when I felt more pressure. In the past, I found the photographers or staff a little intimidating, even though they weren’t doing anything in particular. I’d get this irrational fear, like, “If I make a bad impression, I won’t make it in this industry.” (laughs) But I’m more comfortable with it now. These days, I find interpreting the directions they give most enjoyable. For instance, if they ask me to stand straight with precise posture, I imagine myself as a knight wearing the outfit I have on. Or if they suggest creating a relaxed vibe while sitting in a chair, I picture myself in an old Parisian building with curtains gently swaying in the breeze. I tend to let my imagination run wild during photoshoots.
ESQ: I was actually quite impressed watching you on set today. You went up to some staff members you didn’t seem to know very well and jokingly said, “Don’t my fingers look stubby in this shot?” It made me think, “Wow, he’s such a down-to-earth and natural person.”
M: Did I do that? (laughs) I think it’s because I like that kind of vibe. When working abroad, people often ask casual questions like, “Hi! Where are you from? What do you do?” even if they don’t know you well. But that doesn’t happen as naturally on set, so someone has to make the effort. I don’t mind being that person if it helps create a comfortable environment.
ESQ: I still remember when one of my colleagues interviewed SEVENTEEN’s hip-hop unit and came back raving about how fun, genuine, and great you all were. And this colleague rarely gives such compliments.
M: I’m glad to hear that! It puts my mind at ease.
ESQ: Don’t you hear that kind of feedback often? Wherever you go, someone always seems to comment on SEVENTEEN’s sincerity and teamwork.
M: True, we do get that a lot. I think we’re lucky to be so well-received. But here’s the thing: we’ve been in the industry for quite a while now, and over time, each member develops their own experiences, standards, and methods of managing fatigue. You start to realise what’s necessary to do and what’s not, and that personal boundary might come across as cold to some people. Fortunately, as of yet, people still say we’re kind and nice.
ESQ: The world has become a place where even small mistakes can blow up, yet SEVENTEEN’s honesty and humility remain impressive. In a career where so many different people constantly analyse your every move, it must be hard to stay genuine; is it experience that’s allowed you to achieve that balance?
M: It’s definitely not easy. Honestly, I don’t think it’s something you ever fully master. (laughs) But I’d say we’ve developed a sort of instinct. Even when we’re chatting and having fun, there’s this internal alarm that goes off when we’re about to say something we shouldn’t. Being honest is great, but if our words could even slightly harm someone or touch on a divisive topic, we know it’s best to stay quiet. These days, we hardly ever need to talk about the things we need to watch out for. Everyone has developed their own instincts and has been mindful of what they need to be cautious about. In a way, it’s become more about respecting each other’s choices.
ESQ: I’ve always wondered how 13 men with different personalities get along so well. But thinking about it, it’s like a big family with lots of brothers—you naturally develop a sense of community and a well-rounded attitude. You probably learn good behaviours and mindsets from each other, too.
M: Exactly. There are a ton of those moments. To be honest, we argue more often than people might think. (laughs) But that’s just inevitable when you have different opinions. The difference is that when we were younger, we’d argue and think, “Why is he like that?” Now, it’s more like, “I see where he’s coming from.” We always say, “It’s not wrong; it’s just different.” That mindset has become a core part of how we think.
ESQ: Let’s now talk about your new album. Your latest track, “LOVE, MONEY, FAME (feat. DJ Khaled)” has such a striking title.
M: From the very beginning, when we first discussed this album, our team agreed on one thing: “Let’s make it hip. Let’s keep it cool.” At its core, though, the song’s message is this: While people chase money, fame, and all those things they want to possess, what truly matters most in the end is love.
ESQ: It’s an honest reflection on true values.
M: Exactly. The name of our 12th mini album is SPILL THE FEELS. It carries a message encouraging people to freely express their emotions. Being honest with your feelings isn’t always about staying positive. You can express your anger, disappointment, sadness, or happiness. And when you’re happy, you should know how to fully enjoy it. The lead single focuses on love as one of those emotions. At first glance, the title might make you think, “Is this another hip-hop song bragging about achievements?” But once you listen, you realise there’s a deeper message. Personally, I think this ability to strike that balance is one of SEVENTEEN’s charms.
ESQ: Interestingly, if you shorten the song title, it becomes “LMF.”
M: That’s right! It’s the complete opposite of our 10th mini album, FML.
ESQ: Was that intentional?
M: Honestly, I thought it was intentional too! But it actually just happened by coincidence. When I noticed it, I thought to myself, “I’ll just say it was intentional during interviews later.” (laughs) Back then, with “FML” we talked about a messed-up world. But this time, with “LMF (Love, Money, Fame),” we’re saying that even in this messed-up world, there’s love, money, and fame—and out of all those, love is the most important. There’s a flipped interpretation.
ESQ: And yet, here you are openly admitting you thought about tweaking the story for interviews but decided to come clean instead.
M: Well… I’m just saying I thought about it! Interviews need to stay honest, after all. (laughs)
ESQ: Watching you on recent YouTube variety shows, I’ve realised you’re quite funny.
M: I want to be funny. But saying “I’m a funny person” doesn’t really feel right coming from me.
ESQ: What do people around you say?
M: Me? Probably something like, “He’s a bright person.” Someone cheerful, with decent conversational skills, a bit of wit, and a sense of humour. Someone modest who would never claim all that himself. (laughs)
ESQ: So that’s who you are.
M: If that’s how you feel, I’d be really grateful if you could write it that way in the article. Just make sure to add that I didn’t describe myself like that!
ESQ: (laughs) But that’s genuinely how I feel. You’re not the type to crack outrageous jokes that leave everyone in stitches, but your sense of timing and ability to elevate a conversation is remarkable. Yet, when all the SEVENTEEN members are together, you barely speak at all.
M: Oh, really? (pauses to think) That wasn’t intentional, but now that you mention it, I guess it’s true. It might just be a habit I’ve developed naturally. Honestly, it’s not just me—think about how much everyone else has to hold back what they want to say. With 13 members, if everyone tried to jump in all at once, it’d be complete chaos. It’s more like, “I have something to say, and I know I could make it funny, but since you’ve already said something, I’ll let it go.” I think we’ve all naturally adopted that kind of attitude.
ESQ: So you are especially an enjoyer of comedy but aren’t one to draw attention to yourself?
M: Right. I actually talk a lot—put me in a smaller setting, like a variety show with just two or three people, and I’ll speak more freely. Even now, I’m loving this interview, though I have to stop myself from oversharing. (laughs)
ESQ: Loving to talk and wanting to pursue variety shows or hosting are two different things, right? Which one sounds more like you?
M: It’s the former. I enjoy talking and having fun, but I don’t want that to become the main focus when people look at me. After all, there’s a core aspect to my job that I need to stay true to. It’s great to show other sides of myself, but I don’t see myself completely shifting to another path.
ESQ: SEVENTEEN seems to prioritise group activities over individual ones. Is that to keep the group schedule manageable?
M: Exactly. The members of Super Junior have always looked out for us ever since we were young. Being in a large group like ours probably reminds them of the past and creates a special attachment. They’ve always told us, “Don’t drift apart—keep focusing on team activities for as long as you can. It’s good for you, and it’s what the fans want most.” It sounded like good advice back then, but I feel it even more deeply these days. After all, SEVENTEEN is at its best when we’re together, and our fans love us the most when we’re together. As long as we can, we want to keep our focus on the team.
ESQ: If there were no restrictions, what would you most want to try?
M: There’s so much I want to do. I’d love to try making a travel vlog—maybe showing my travels naturally, not particularly talking to people.
ESQ: I really enjoyed watching your LA travel vlog!
M: Really? Thank you. Actually, the guys said it was boring.
ESQ: But it was packed full of the romance of travel, don’t you think? Riding a bike in Beverly Hills with a hat on a sunny day, checking out some concept stores to buy Nike shoes or adidas jerseys, and drinking beer while watching the sunset at Santa Monica Beach.
M: Yeah, I definitely experienced all the romance of LA during that time.
ESQ: Even waiting for your bike to be repaired at the local shop after a sudden flat tyre was perfect!
M: Right! I really liked that bike, but I couldn’t bring it back to Korea, so I ended up giving it to a little kid at a nearby park.
ESQ: You just gave it away? And that kid didn’t know who you were?
M: (laughs) No, not at all. I just asked, “Do you want this?” That was it. Some people might not understand, but for me, making those not-so-logical or inefficient moments into happy memories is my goal. Even now, both the moments when I was riding that bike and when I gave it away to that kid in the park remain happy memories for me.
ESQ: Do you like travelling?
M: I do! Travelling around the world is my dream. When I was younger, I thought about getting a yacht license, driving a yacht to Europe, and then flying back from there. That dream is still with me. It’s not just something I imagine in my mind; I really want to make it happen someday.
ESQ: So it’s like a vague vision of your future self that you think about from time to time?
M: Right. I tend to think a lot about the far future. (laughs) The guys often rip into me because of that. Everyone talks about what they’re going to do next year or the year after, while I’m over here talking about what I’ll be doing 20 or 30 years from now.
ESQ: Well, if you keep talking about retiring and sailing around the Caribbean, it makes sense for them to tease you a bit. (laughs)
M: No, it’s the opposite; I’m imagining myself still going strong even after I turn 50. I tell the guys, “We’ll obviously still be SEVENTEEN in 10 years, so why worry about one or two years from now?” and they don’t really know what to say to me.
ESQ: Wait, so you mean even in the far future, when you’re travelling the world, you’ll still be a member of SEVENTEEN?
M: Exactly. During breaks, I’d wander the globe. If we’re on a US tour, I’d rent a huge RV. If we’re on a world tour, maybe I’d even travel by yacht… Although that might be a bit unrealistic. (laughs)
ESQ: Actually, I’m a bit surprised. I thought you were talking about your life after retirement, but even in your far-off dream, you see being with SEVENTEEN as an obvious part of it.
M: Well, SEVENTEEN should be preserved, shouldn’t it? I say it’s a dream, but really it’s a huge goal for me. You need a goal to keep moving forward. That’s also why I try to place myself in the far future as much as possible.
Photography: Park Jongha
Fashion Editor: Yoon Woonghee
Features Editor: Oh Sungyoon
Stylists: Kang Minjee and Choi Younghoe
Hair: Kim Byungwoo
Makeup: Lee Jaehee
Set Stylist: Jeon Yebyeol
After the Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show, artistic director Kim Jones received the Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur—France's highest civilian honour. It's a rarity for someone outside of France to receive the honour, but given Jones' six-year tenure modernising and recontextualising house codes and archives, it does seem fitting. Anna Wintour presented the award to Jones, while wearing a piece from the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection.
Wintour was also present front row at the show. I was seated at the other side of the sprawling runway show space, across from her. There was nothing particularly special about her presence at the show; Wintour isn't a stranger to the Dior Men runway shows. But with the persistent rumours of creative directorship changes, one does wonder if it all points to some sliver of truth to them.
It didn't help to that there was a sort of sombre element to the show's musical choice. "Time Lapse" by Michael Nyman provided some energy to the elegance of the collection but also underscored a sense of melancholy.
But all that to say, the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection was easily one of Jones' best, especially in the past couple of years. Jones took it back to Monsieur Dior after seasons of referencing the works of past Dior creative directors, drawing focus on the graphic and angular Ligne H collection.
The fit: While the collection referenced Monsieur Dior's Ligne H collection, Jones took the opportunity to expand the idea to include other signatures by Monsieur Dior. The opera coat from the Pondichéry collection of 1948, for example, was reimagined in two different versions—one in pure black, and another embellished pink iteration that closed the show. Jones slipped through time periods recontextualising and merging them with more modern silhouettes, all while envisioning a gender-fluid casanova—taking the idea of a "ladies' man" quite literally.
Right from the first look, a play of volumes was apparent. From cinched waists of a number of the opera coats to more voluminous structured creations that were left as is, there was a brilliant display of fabric manipulation and couture-level constructions.
Save for the couture embroidery techniques employed, there was hardly any other Dior motif present. There was no Oblique, no Cannage or anything that resembled any form of signature or branding. The only such element was a Christian Dior Paris label that were placed front and centre on a number of pieces. This collection was all about the cut, silhouette and make of each piece. Sublime.
The details: One of the standout design details was the folded, draped collars that were seen on both precious fabrics as well as leather. Without constructing a "proper" collar or lapel, collars were formed just from manipulating the material and skilfully draping it to create a seamless appearance of a collar. It was incredibly breathtaking to witness up close at the re-see the next day.
The couture bow was used as a clever leitmotif throughout the collection. On some ready-to-wear pieces, they were removable accents on the back of blazers as well as sleeve covers on jackets. There were, of course, the Dior-branded bows that were worn as masks. The bows were also translated as satin bow caps on the collection's footwear, and will sure to be the most sought-after piece in the entire collection.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9's pink bow-sleeved jacket that I'm calling "couture coquette"; the delicious and supple leather top in look 20; and the drama of the skirt-trouser combo with the offbeat pairing of an embroidered striped shirt in look 46.
The takeaway: Jones's appointment to Dior Men may have been partly due to his affinity for and ability to interweave streetwear into luxury fashion, but the truth it, he's a fashion engineer capable to making a brand relevant.
View the full Dior Men Winter 2025 collection in the gallery below.
If there's one thing that's certain during Paris Fashion Week Men's, is that artistic director Kim Jones will dig deep into Dior's archives for a contemporary reimagining of the spirit of Christian Dior. The Dior Men Winter 2025 collection will certainly be all that and perhaps, more.
There's already a clear teasing of this from the physical invitations sent out. As per Dior Men custom, the invite came packed with a zipped folio—this time around, it's plain black with a classic Christian Dior tag in leather. The invitation card features a lily of the valley motif that's become synonymous with the House. If there's a prediction to be made, it does look like Jones could be presenting a very pared back collection focused on silhouette and make, with some couture elements thrown into the mix.
For confirmation of what the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 24 January 2025 at 10pm Singapore time
It was in October 2023 that Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones released the first Dior Icons capsule collection. Fronted by Robert Pattinson—an indelible face of the House—the collection was an exercise in restraint with a curation of pieces meant to act as a contemporary wardrobe for the Dior man.
The concept hasn’t changed a year later. For Spring 2025, the Dior Icons capsule collection continues to be centred around a complete wardrobe meant to be versatile and timeless enough to get one well-equipped for just about any occasion. And while the overall vibe remains discreet and luxurious, Jones has doubled down on interpreting house iconographies in a manner that stays true to the original vision of the capsule.
For example, the use of pale pink. Dior may be more famously known for its characteristic grey hue, yet pink is also among one of the colours that have grown to be part of the House’s haute couture visual vocabulary. In fact, Jones’ first Dior Men collection paid homage to the bluish-toned shade of pink (inspired by Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville) with a spate of tailoring. For the latest Dior Icons capsule, Jones introduced pale pink into the mix as a sort of palette cleanser to its earthy foundations. Pale pink polo shirts come in two versions—one crafted in a lightweight knit, and another that casts a luxurious sheen.
The Dior Cannage and Oblique are inescapable motifs. Present in the capsule since its first drop, the maxi version of the Cannage is focused on tactile applications in the form of cable-knit tops. They’re enhanced this time around by cashmere, and in the capsule’s more outstanding pieces, a mock-neck cable-knit vest is decorated with pronounced Cannage lines that’ll cause a double-take on the streets. Along the same vein is the Dior Oblique that appears on bags, accessories and shoes as Dior Gravity Leather creations, serving to complement the more quiet presence of the brand’s ready-to-wear.
Yet, at the heart of the Dior Icons capsule collection is the savoir-faire of the Dior ateliers. Modernising time-honoured craftsmanship for the modern man, the capsule is grounded by classic wide-legged trousers, tailored jackets and long, structured coats—all defined by their impeccable lines and detailed finishes. Because when it comes to Dior, nothing else is as iconic as its craftsmanship.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Noted for their collaboration that signalled a new era for Dior Men, artistic director Kim Jones has reunited with contemporary artist KAWS for a capsule collection celebrating Dior icons and the pop-fuelled energy of the latter’s aesthetic. In other words: a throughly joyful start to 2025.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Long before fashion houses consciously co-opted colours as brand identifiers, Dior was one of the first few to have incorporated the colour grey (specifically Trianon Grey or Montaigne Grey) as part of its visual vocabulary. Grey has become such an integral colour for the house that you’d be hard-pressed to find a single collection without the use of it.
It is said that Monsieur Dior’s fascination with the hue first began when he was establishing the couture house on the now-historic 30 Avenue Montaigne address. He drew inspiration from his childhood home in Granville, which featured hues of blush pink and grey. The latter, he regarded as a practical and neutral shade that’s elegant in every material expression from wool to tweed.
Grey continues to be a core element of the House and one that Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones refreshes time and time again. Across renewed menswear tailoring, reimagined bag silhouettes as well as modern classic pieces, Jones typically includes grey as a part of an item’s colourway. We reckon it’s equal parts to honour Monsieur Dior as it is exemplifying just how elegant the pigment truly is.
As one of Dior Men’s explorations of reimagining its icons, the recently released Dior Gravity series now receives a greyed out treatment. The embossed Dior Oblique motif is achieved through a delicate technique that marks the leather with the aid of gravity—hence the name. The latest iteration of Dior Gravity adds another layer of craftsmanship with a gradient of greys beautiful executed through a hand-spraying process. Dior artisans then cut, assemble and sew the elements one by one.
A duo of backpacks and messenger bags as well as a clutch are dressed in the gradient Dior Gravity. And just as how Monsieur Dior himself had envisioned, the distinct Dior elegance is apparent despite the pieces crafted as more modern, casual accessories. The Dior Oblique motif is slightly obscured as the shift from life to dark glides over each piece, adding a sort of dramatic subtlety—a kind of intricate element you'd find on a couture piece.
You watch a runway show, get immersed in the designer’s POV for the season, but then fail to find anything you’d wear. It happens, and it’s not because the collection is poorly thought-out, but rather, not everything paraded on the runway may be practical for real-world application—or at the very least, for the average man.
Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones recognises the conundrum. Given that the Dior Men clientele ranges from those who are familiar with Jones’ proposals for modern menswear with an elevated sense of masculinity, to those who prefer to dress more understatedly, the assortment of choices is already wide. Well, Jones just made it simpler with a capsule that’s fittingly called New Essentials.
The capsule riffs on the oft-used idea of wardrobe essentials but injected with elements signatureto the house. It’s a tight curation of must-have pieces ranging from tailoring to sportswear, each crafted for a refined look. Knits are made for comfort, trousers cut for maximum practicality, and casual jackets and blazers are sophisticated with clever inclusions of Dior motifs. An all-over Dior Oblique motif, for example, is rendered in a tonal treatment on a jacket and topped with subtle branding at the back. Elsewhere, calculated use of textural elements and precise constructions elevate pieces like a bomber jacket.
Sure, the New Essentials capsule collection is designed to be wearable, but there’s hardly anything basic about any of the pieces.
And if you ever feel adventurous enough to obtain a Dior Men runway piece, a New Essentials piece would most definitely make for easy pairing.
When Lewis Hamilton was announced as Dior’s brand ambassador in July this year, it probably came as a shock to no one. The multiple Formula 1 record holder—the man has the most career wins and world championship titles to date—isn’t just a blur on the racetrack, he’s quite the snazzy dresser off of it. Specifically, Hamilton had been spotted wearing Dior Men on multiple occasions while making the F1 Grand Prix circuit this season.
Brand ambassadorships are a well-established concept that works. But at the rate persons of note are being conferred the title, it’s nigh impossible to keep track of who’s affiliated to which brand. What is rare, however, is a brand ambassador whois more than just a physical embodiment of what a brand represents.
Hamilton seems to have a knack for taking his involvement with fashion brands a step further than the norm. With Tommy Hilfiger, Hamilton co-created four TommyXLewis capsule collections from 2018 to 2020, imbuing his own personal sense of style to that of the American brand. And now at Dior Men, he’s charging ahead with a capsule collection designed together with artistic director Kim Jones.
“Working with Kim and the talented team at Dior has been a dream, and I was honoured when Kim asked if I’d like to do this with him. Our values and ideas are aligned, making it easy to bring to life a creative collection infused with our shared experiences,” Hamilton expresses.
The new Dior Men Lifestyle Capsule collection is not F1 , or even racing-related, because that would be far too predictable and Hamilton is a multi-faceted individual. Instead, the collection revolves around skiing and snowboarding as a personal celebration of Hamilton’s love for an outdoor-centric winter lifestyle. He’s an adrenaline junkie and has a love for extreme sports aside from motorsports.
“We share a love of nature, a desire to celebrate Africa and an interest in the artisanal processes and techniques that unite craftspeople in Africa with the savoir-faire of the Dior ateliers. Added to that, this collection also reflects Lewis’ sporting side, his virtuosity and our functionality,” says Jones.
In many ways, the Lifestyle Capsule collection is a global effort. African-inspired motifs are incorporated within the collection (Jones grew up in African countries in his early years), adding vibrancy to technical functionalities. African weaves made in Burkina Faso, for example, have been crafted into casual suiting by the Dior ateliers, and custom snowboards by Switzerland-based Factory 9 feature Dior branding set against graphic African-inspired motifs. The collection’s technical skiwear by Japanese sportswear brand Descente too are made to withstand the harsh cold conditions on the slopes. The expertise rendered by these different “global ateliers” all ensure that not only do the pieces look exceptional and on par with Dior’s craftsmanship, but that they also function on the same level.
Hamilton has taken it a step further by pushing the boundaries of the Dior ateliers in ensuring that sustainability isn’t an afterthought to the creation of the collection. Having been on a plant-based diet since 2017, Hamilton insisted that no animal leather is to be used for any of the pieces in the Lifestyle Capsule collection. He’s pushed for more conscious choices in terms of materiality. The collection’s ready-to-wear such as slouchy denims, knitwear, and fleeces are made partly using organic or recycled textiles. A micro-fibre snow shoe, the Dior Snow derby, has been designed to serve as a casual pair of footwear while simultaneously being capable of performing on the slopes over a snowboard—a cleverly designed versatile pair.
These new touches serve to enhance the collection while retaining the essence of a Kim Jones Dior Men collection. The B44 Blade sneaker is a new addition to Jones’ expanding sneaker offerings for Dior Men. Conceptualised with a decidedly 2000s silhouette in mind, it’s undoubtedly sporty in its allure and rendered in tasteful gradations of colours. It’s too early to say if the design will become a mainstay for Dior Men but it definitely fits in with the existing Dior Men universe.
In an interview with WWD, Jones hints that there will be more to come. “This is almost like a taste, and then we get into bigger collections,” he said of the partnership with Hamilton. And to that, we’ll just have to wait and see what comes next, because this collection, in essence, is quite a game-changer for a house like Dior.
Although haute couture was largely controlled by men since its beginning in the 17th century, it has always been regarded as part of the women’s universe—even if men’s fashion during the time had just about the same level of intricacy as women’s. Haute couture has often been in reference to the elaborate court dresses that only master tailors were allowed to produce for noblewomen, while couturières (female designers) could only work on casual dress.
Societal shifts have further segmented fashion terminologies in the present day. Haute couture—while still remaining a male-dominated sector—largely deals with custom pieces for women; the closest male equivalent would be Savile Row’s bespoke tailoring, which, while employing a similar level of custom tailoring, is arguably less labour intensive and intricate than haute couture.
At Dior Men, artistic director Kim Jones’ constant deep dives into the house’s couture heritage have culminated in his first collection of couture pieces for men. Shown during the Rudolf Nureyev-inspired Winter 2024 runway show, the haute couture pieces closed as nods to the ballet dancer’s more flamboyant persona. Familiar menswear silhouettes that reflect nuances of movement and sport are handcrafted with embroideries (inspired by archive ball gowns) and employ the use of traditional techniques.
A silk crepe kimono closed the show. Worn over a romper, it’s one of a few pieces in the collection that was inspired by Nureyev’s collection of vintage textiles and clothing. The particular piece features embroidered tulle ribbons treated in a gradation of hues that seem to endlessly journey throughout the kimono. A silk organza top using the same application is found in a prior look, its sheerness displaying the detailed artistry as the ribbons appear to float and dance around the torso.
It’s fair to say that while the Winter 2024 collection marks Jones’ first haute couture collection for Dior Men, he’s no stranger to adapting couture techniques in past ready-to-wear collections. It’s difficult not to—Dior’s haute couture heritage runs deep with iconic haute couture creations still being referenced by designers within and beyond the house. And if anyone could make men’s haute couture part of the mainstream, it’s Jones.
When TOMORROW X TOGETHER made their way to Paris for the closing of the Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2024 show season in January this year, they were given the complete Dior experience. The quintet did the usual touristy things—visiting the Louvre and strolling around the Seine—but also had the opportunity to visit La Galerie Dior, the exhibition space located within the House's iconic 30 Avenue Montaigne address.
Throughout their adventures around Paris, TOMORROW X TOGETHER were dressed completely in Dior Men, ranging from artistic director Kim Jones' more casual streetwear-leaning proposals to impeccable tailoring that stayed true to the haute couture spirit of the House. The latter was on elegant display as the group entered (to a cacophony of screams and camera clicks, no less) the show space of the Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show at Paris' École Militaire in the city's seventh arrondissement.
TOMORROW X TOGETHER's outfits were a calculated move, both by the group as well as the House. Tapping on his own personal experiences and roots—as he often does time and time again at Dior Men—Jones' inspiration for the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection revolved around the perceived reality of a ballet dancer's life versus the actual reality of it. The ballet dancer in question is Soviet-born Rudolf Nureyev, one of the most renowned male ballet dancers in the world and just so happens to be a friend of Jones' uncle, photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones.
Before delving deeper into the inspiration behind the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection, it's important to note that the very beginnings of the collection was an exploration of Monsieur Dior's own relationship with ballet. English ballerina Margot Fonteyn is said to have first discovered the house of Dior in 1948 while on a trip to Paris and became a fan of its creations. A friendship with Monsieur Dior naturally developed and Fonteyn often chose to wear Dior on numerous occasions.
This is where an almost unbelievable happenstance begins. Fonteyn's most famous dance partner is none other than Nureyev—effectively linking Monsieur Dior and Jones in the most amazing way.
"When Colin became a photographer, he maintained strong links to the ballet world and, in 1966, Time Life asked him to document a day in the life of Nureyev, regarded by some as the greatest male ballet dancer of his generation. Bonded through their shared history and mutual sense of fun and mischief, the pair went on to forge a great friendship," explains Jones.
The resulting Dior Men Winter 2024 is one of contrasts: the difference between ready-to-wear and couture, between onstage and backstage, and between the life of Nureyev theatrically and in reality. "Here, it is a meeting of the dancer's style with that of the Dior archive," expresses Jones.
There's no doubt that Jones is already more than familiar with crafting from points of contrasts. His oeuvre at Dior Men has always been merging elegant signatures from the archives with contemporary stylings. The Winter 2024 collection takes references from Saint Laurent's time at Dior, translating the late designer's tailored volumes, vents, pleats and necklines. The iconic Bar jacket created by Monsieur Dior is contextualised once again, this time, combined with Jones' very own Oblique tailoring.
While the runway collection is imbued with more extravagant flounces as well as the debut of Dior Men's haute couture—as nods to Nureyev's theatrical career—the dramatic flair as seen on TOMORROW X TOGETHER are more nuanced. '60s- and '70s-inspired tailoring are cut with a rigid straightforwardness, especially in the single-breasted variations, that are then paired with gently flared trousers. Conversely, the collection's more commercial pieces lend a more streetwear air. Take this as the contemporary equivalent of a dancer's off-duty look with slouchy cardigans and hoodies worn over essential white T-shirts and paired with the roomiest of trousers.
It may be a stretch to compare the duality of Nureyev's life with that of TOMORROW X TOGETHER's, given that the former didn't have to contend with the accessibility of social media and in turn, the almost instant, global fame achieved by TOMORROW X TOGETHER. Yet, what remains a similarity is in the versatility and adaptability of both to weave in and out of their lives onstage and off that echo that contrast of two opposing worlds within the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Animation: Joan Tai
Now in his sixth year at the Maison, artistic director Kim Jones has built a reputation for elevating Dior's menswear, seamlessly blending street style elements with the house's couture history. For the Dior Men Summer 2024 collection, Jones paid tribute to various Dior predecessors and eras, integrating their influences with a contemporary design language. Constantly challenging the notions of tradition and modernity, there's no doubt that the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will be one that brings to the fore forgotten or lesser known elements of Dior's history.
For confirmation of what the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 21 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time
"I think I'm pretty good at this," Cha Eun-woo nonchalantly said while playing a game with Dior where he masterfully guessed the Dior Men collection by artistic director Kim Jones based on a number of corresponding objects.
He should be a pro at it; Cha has been to a number of runway shows for both Dior and Dior Men since 2022. In fact, he was the only Korean idol to have ever attended a fashion show in Egypt, the site of Dior Men's first show in the country for its Fall 2023 show in Cairo.
Cha's connection with Dior began in 2022, first as a Dior Beauty ambassador. Sure, there's no doubt that the multi-talented actor and singer is as good-looking as they come—there's that impossibly perfect, poreless, porcelain skin and facial proportions that can only be described as stripped from a fantasy novel—but Cha's proven to be more than just a beautiful face. The man has serious style chops.
At the 2022 exhibition Treasure Gardens in Seoul by French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel (sponsored by Dior Beauty), Cha wore a Dior Men double-breasted suit with classic accoutrements. It was his first official appearance for the House and it felt fitting as a nod to Dior's haute couture beginnings. But just as Dior Men is more than mere tailoring, Cha has proven that he's quite a fashion chameleon with a range that's as wide as the roles he's taken on as an actor.
Cha continuously exemplifies style deftness on the front row. His first Dior show, the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 collection, saw him opting for a full-black ensemble with a Dior Cannage coat that added much needed textural contrast. In Cairo, he switched it up with an outfit from the Dior Men Spring 2023 collection—a collaboration with Los Angeles-based ERL—that stood out in a different way. "There were several outfits I tried during fitting and chose this in the end," he said, referring to the tinsel sweater in a gradation of blues from look 15 of the collection. And if that wasn't enough tinsel, he had on a Dior Saddle bag in the same treatment and affixed with an oversized gold chain. But before you cry foul that Cha essentially wears Dior Men like how it's styled on the runway, he substituted the jorts and sneakers in the original look for denim jeans and sneakers that complemented his frame and gave more attention to the top half of his outfit.
It's this duality (a term that's been gaining popularity of late in reference to celebrities being adaptable and having multiple personas) that makes Cha quite the perfect Dior man. You'd see him in a monochromatic, elegant ensemble one day, and the next, he'd be in the House's more streetwear-inspired leanings.
The Dior Men Fall 2024 collection speaks to this duality—a convergence of past, present and future. Jones continued exploration of the house codes led him to the visual narratives by Monsieur Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. The collection might be a tailoring-focused one, but peppered with elements of the outdoors as well as military-inspired pieces. Subverted tailoring include front-tie blazers and striped shirts paired with shorts as well as bermudas lined with a peeking layers of silk. There's an Art Deco feel in the patterns used on sweaters with zipped details providing that extra element of functionality.
Dior Gravity Leather reinforces the Dior Oblique motif's timeless relevance. The latest interpretation of the icon sees an entirely unique embossing technique that marks leather with the aid of gravity, hence the name. The result is a grained leather series of bags, shoes and accessories that are branded ever so lightly with the motif.
One could say that Cha's ascension into the stratosphere of fame is akin to defying gravity. Even before debuting as a member of then-sextet Astro, he was already dabbling in acting. To date, he's appeared in a couple of films and a string of series, of which the latest, Wonderful World, explored a darker side with themes of grief and revenge. Cha released his first solo EP ENTITY in February but even before that, he's lent his voice as a solo artist in a number of soundtracks.
What's next for Cha? No one really knows except the man himself. But what's for certain is that he'll be taking anything on with the spirit of a Dior man—with grace, elegance, and style.
Photography: Park Jongha
Editor: Im Geon
Styling: Lim Keon
Art Designer: Ju Jeong-hwa
Hair: Lee Il-jung
Make-up: Ahn Sung-hee
Nails: Kim Su-ji
Assistant: Kim Jung-ho
Animation: Joan Tai