2024 is quickly becoming the year of the lapel pin as exemplified by the range seen at the recent Academy Awards. But it was two weeks prior, at another award show, that we were taken by quite an extraordinary lapel pin.
Now, we're not saying that Paul Mescal at the 2024 BAFTAs ignited a sudden re-embrace of lapel pins (and some pretty bejewelled ones at that), but the Cartier piece added to his Gucci suit was such an unexpected surprise in the best ways possible. At first glance, the sharp-edged design looked like individual pins layered atop of each other. However, they're a whole set with its connection hidden at the back of the jacket's lapel. Its name? The Cartier Libre Polymorph jacket lapel gem—crafted in white gold and decorated with garnets, onyx and diamonds.
The Cartier Libre collection isn't exactly new. As the name suggests, it's a completely free expression untethered by conventions of jewellery and watchmaking as well as Cartier traditions, and has resulted in some truly inspiring pieces by the Maison. The Polymorph collection that sits under Cartier Libre however, is the latest creative expression—a collection of watches and jewellery that all share the ability to transform.
No, they don't mechanically move and turn into something else (although judging by the debut collection, it certainly isn't out of the realm of possibility). The Cartier Libre Polymorph collection is inspired by the constant motion of nature, resulting in pieces that are flexible and draws on the Maison's passion for surprise and bringing refined creations to life.
A fine example of this is a Polymorph ring consisting of four rotating discs of white gold, onyx and diamonds. The ring imitates the movement of a solar eclipse with each disc varying in design and size. The full extent of its width can be unfolded on the hand or folded inwards to create a single focal point of a spiral of discs that seems to be in constant flow. It's a show-stopping piece and definitely looks better than a fidget spinner.
One of the collection's more curious objets d'art is a bejewelled carabiner. The precious object is smaller than the size of one's palm but is intricately riddled with baguette diamonds, brilliant-set diamonds, prong-set sapphire and emeralds. In the centre sits a rotating component showcasing a diamond-paved dial surrounded by emeralds and sapphires. At the 12 o'clock position sits a ruby, while beads of lapis-lazuli, onyx, black spinel, turquoise and chrysoprase coil around either side of the dial.
But the main point is that it's a carabiner, and like every other carabiner, it opens up. The Polymorph piece does so with a touch of a sapphire cabochon that activates the diamond-paved band bordered by rubies that it sits on. Talk about decadent.
While Mescal's lapel pin was a unique piece, this next brooch is an incomparable stunner. The panther is Cartier's insignia through and through. Hence, it's no surprise that it would make an appearance in the Polymorph collection too and this time, in quite a menacing interpretation.
Shaped like four claws of the panther, the brooch is crafted from four large moonstones and snow-set diamonds with custom-cut onyx. It sits right at the edge of a lapel, appearing to grip the and display only a hint of its power. But even then, the surprise doesn't stop there. When pressed, a hidden miniature dial is revealed. Smart, audacious and bold—a creative expression like no other.
There are of course more pieces in the Cartier Libre Polymorph collection, including a bracelet that bursts like the sun's rays. But even just these three aforementioned pieces are enough to showcase the unbridled creativity that's at the heart of the Maison. And to think that this is just the beginning.
On a warm afternoon in the middle of nowhere, Antony Lindsay, the newly-appointed CEO of Fabergé sits before us as the ice in a glass next to an unopened can of Coke, tinkles as it melts. As the CEO of a storied brand like Fabergé, Lindsay’s task is to spread the word (and work) of the Romanov’s favourite jewellery house. With Sincere Watch Limited as its official retailer in Singapore, Fabergé continues to make its presence known. And yes, Fabergé is synonymous with the gem-encrusted eggs but the house has other achievements like jewelled boxes; animals carved out of precious stones and other ornamental objects.
In 2007, the brand underwent a revival. Taking inspiration from its storied past, Fabergé created original pieces like the Vissionnaire watches, where a Chronograph model displays two time zones at once, and the Altruist line, which has a clean and simple-to-read dial, with a crown that’s reminiscent of winding up a traditional clock. The collection that secured Fabergé’s footing in the hard jewellery world is the Compliquée models, which won the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award.
As water pool at the bottom of the glass, Lindsay talks to us. About his history, where Fabergé is at and the future.
ESQUIRE: Did Sean Gilbertson (Fabergé’s last CEO) leave you with any wisdom when you took over?
ANTONY LINDSAY: [laughs] There’s been many over the years. I’ve known Sean, coming up to almost 14 years, and we shared some moments, both good and challenging. Nothing springs to mind... except for this Winston Churchill quote, “If you ever find yourself going through hell, keep walking.”
ESQ: What’s your journey been like?
AL: I come from a family of jewellers and had an interest in gemmology at a young age. I’ve been neurolinguistically programmed to appreciate jewellery, timepieces and objets d’art just by hanging out at my dad’s atelier on the weekends. I’d look at the gemstones handled by the craftspeople. I have an appreciation for hard luxury and completed my apprenticeship as a bench jeweller. I’m proud of having played such an important role within Fabergé for about 14 years. I’ve worn different hats as well. Proud when I was appointed MD and was invited to join the board of Gemfields UK Limited. As well as becoming CEO this year.
I feel privileged and fortunate to be part of a team to write the next chapter of one of the most celebrated names in luxury. I see that as an honour. It’s the revival of the coloured gemstones on one hand and it’s also the revival of Fabergé on the other. It’s what keeps us very busy.
ESQ: What sets Fabergé apart from the rest of your competition?
AL: I’d say that Fabergé’s reputation for unrivalled craftsmanship and design is globally recognised. I’d say Fabergé’s diverse use of techniques like the guilloché enamel with the use of hard stone or visible setting. In keeping with tradition, we seek to work with the finest ateliers. Because we don’t have our own workshop, we seek out workmasters all around the world. That’s quite unique to us.
ESQ: Speaking of tradition, how do you maintain that heritage while courting the newer generation?
AL: That’s a good question. It’s important to us that we pay homage and recognise what was done in the past. We draw inspiration from Peter Carl Fabergé, whether that be through his philosophies, values or craftsmanship. To apply it in a modern and contemporary and relevant way; we like to consider ourselves as a forward-thinking brand.
ESQ: How did your partnership with Sincere come about?
AL: I’d say that we are actively looking to partner with the finest retailers in existence. We don’t profess to understand every market on the planet. So, we believe that by partnering with the best of the best, who understands how to represent a brand like Fabergé; and how to offer first-class customer service... that’s very important to us. Sincere Watch Group is the perfect fit for Fabergé and we’re delighted that they are representing us here in Singapore and soon in other parts of South East Asia.
ESQ: What would you introduce to someone new to Fabergé?
AL: I would introduce the Compliquée Peacock watch, which is quintessentially Fabergé. We took inspiration from the Imperial Peacock Egg and, in keeping with the Fabergé tradition, we sought out the finest watch movement manufacturer and that led us to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor and now his two sons, Nicolas and Laurent, who run the business on a day-to-day basis. Throughout the discussions with them, we made the Peacock watch that has a special retrograde movement, that functions off four gears, and that allows us to add a feature for the peacock’s tail to unfurl.
ESQ: Peacocks, playing cards; are there other motifs that will utilise that movement in the future?
AL: There are some plans and they are confidential. [laughs]
ESQ: You talked about Fabergé as a book that you’re proud to be part of. What is the next chapter?
AL: To continue this revival and personally—and I know I speak on behalf of my co-workers—it’s about ensuring that the Fabergé story can still be told. What Fabergé symbolises is more than simply luxury and decadence. For us, it’s about creating prized possessions that can stand the test of time and be passed down through the generations. That’s important to us and runs through our DNA. You can scour through Christie’s and see that Fabergé is one of the highly sought-after hard luxury names in existence.
Dwyane Wade—the NBA luminary with 13 All-Star appearances and three championship victories knows about baller pieces. He was recently spotted in Miami, donning Aequa & Co.'s Thick Curb Chain, which paired well with his refined, silky floral prints for a relaxed and confident vibe. A relative newcomer in the world of Aequa & Co. caught the eye of Wade, as well as the attention of the fine jewellery world.
In the midst of age-old luxury establishments, Aequa & Co. is a breath of fresh air. As an avant-garde trailblazer, it broke barriers to introduce a more inclusive era in men's fine jewellery. Departing from the conventional, Aequa & Co.'s artisans (who hailed from esteemed maisons like Cartier and BVLGARI) are pioneering a daring renaissance. Mixing each creation with raw innovation and artistic freedom, you get an exhilarating departure from the safe confines of traditional labels. It's a contemporary collection resonating with potency, adaptability and genuine opulence.
Crafted exclusively from premium, ethically sourced materials—ranging from 14K to 18K solid gold, natural diamonds, pearls, and gemstones—Aequa & Co. caters to the discerning tastes of the modern man. It yields sophistication and yet won't break the bank. Aequa & Co. can circumvent the hefty price tags by overseeing the entire production in-house and bypassing intermediaries and exorbitant markups.
Whether you dress up or down, your Aequa piece seamlessly adapts to every setting. Their offering is a subtle yet distinctive statement that complements any ensemble effortlessly. From morning meetings to evening soirees, its subtle elegance punctuates your style, elevating every moment with an understated touch of sophistication.
And now you know: in the pursuit of that lap of luxury, it's readily accessible; just a mere step away from looking like Dwyane Wade or just looking like a million bucks.
If you're anything like me—an adult almost in his mid-30s who still plays Pokémon (the actual Nintendo Switch series; not that Pokémon GO nonsense)—this would probably tap into the very recesses where your inner child is buried. Tiffany & Co.'s latest collaboration with Daniel Arsham of Arsham Studio is a Pokémon-themed capsule collection. And it's quite a stellar one at that.
Now, there have been a plethora of Pokémon team-ups in the past couple of years. Tiffany & Co. isn't even the first jewellery-themed collaboration—a partnership with Tom Wood was released early last month, which saw a number of Pikachu charms on bracelets and necklaces. What sets Tiffany's effort apart is Arsham's interpretation of familiar Pokémon characters that has been part of the artist's oeuvre.
The Tiffany & Arsham Studio & Pokémon capsule collection continues Arsham's exploration of his "Future Relics" series. Treating his creations as though they're archaeological finds, the works are typically crafted to look aged and somewhat destroyed by time. And in the case of Pokémon characters—a treatment he debuted in his Japan exhibition, A Ripple in Time—they feature the reveal of a crystalline exoskeleton at various parts of each figure.
Amping up the exploration further, the Tiffany & Arsham Studio & Pokémon capsule collection replaces the crystalline treatment with diamonds. That means, all of the six Pokémon characters chosen for this collaboration—Charmander, Squirtle, Jigglypuff, Cubone, Mew and of course, Pikachu—have been crafted with diamond accents. The main collection is made from oxidised sterling silver to give a distinct worn out look and works beautifully to highlight the diamond accents. Two different iterations of Pikachu pendants—a small standing figure and a larger sitting one—are specially cast in yellow gold as a play on the emblematic character's yellow fur.
If you're already eyeing the Tiffany Blue Pokéball, that's only exclusive to the yellow gold Pikachu necklaces. The rest of the capsule collection comes packaged in a Tiffany & Arsham Studio & Pokémon Blue box.
But here's the kicker: this isn't a global release. The entire capsule collection will only be available at the Tiffany & Co. Landmark in New York City, Omotesando store in Tokyo and Tiffany.com in North America and Japan. Enrolment for online purchases in the US opens on 29 November 2023 at 9am EST and closes on 30 November 2023 at 9pm EST, with notifications of the outcomes to be released on 1 December 2023.
Time to renew those long-lost friendships in the US and Japan, folks.
Kim Taehyung, also known as V from BTS, has been chosen as the ambassador for the latest Panthère de Cartier campaign. The brand praises the global pop icon for his captivating "creative spirit and magnetic gaze," perfectly embodying the essence of the panther-inspired collection, ultimately leading to his appointment.
In the campaign, V effortlessly radiates charisma as he wears the iconic Panthère jewellery collection. The collection includes a sculptural diamond ring, a tête-à-tête panther bracelet, and the Révélation d’une Panthère watch. Perfectly complimenting V’s mysterious and sophisticated appearance.
The senior vice president chief MKG officer says, "When it came to personifying the magnetism and aura of the panther, our choice naturally fell on V. He possesses a captivating look and a strong character, guided by creativity as a dancer, musician, and art lover. His unique style and elegance make him the perfect fit for this role." Thus, appointing him as the new ambassador was the most fitting decision.
V now joins esteemed personalities the likes of Blackpink's Jisoo as Cartier ambassadors. This appointment also marks the second luxury jewellery brand ambassadorship for BTS—Jimin was officially announced as the ambassador for Tiffany & Co. last year.
