You may be familiar with Loro Piana’s CashDenim series. While CashDenim pieces look exactly like traditional denim, the brand has transformed the hand feel of the hardy material by infusing precious cashmere. This not only gives the resulting fabric a luxuriously soft touch, it also enhances the durability of denim with the added boon of heat-retaining properties without making the wearer feel the heat. Basically, CashDenim is denim made better.
Denim has been around for centuries and the advancement of fabric technologies has allowed it to take on forms that previously would have been unthinkable. CashDenim is relatively new, having been launched in 2022, and is a fine example of brands experimenting with denim in new ways.
This season, Berluti introduces a speckled Canadian tuxedo crafted with cotton-silk-infused denim for a deceptively hefty piece—you wouldn’t necessarily be able to feel the silk by touch but there’s a marked difference in weight. Prada’s all-denim looks for Autumn/Winter 2024 are some of the thinnest manipulations of the fabric we’ve ever experienced that they almost seem un-denim-like.
While it’s not exactly tweaking the composition or make of denim like the others are doing, Kenzo deserves special mention for creating denim that appears almost like jacquard. Cleverly making use of contrast topstitching, a full denim look is decorated with a “Kenzo Star Tiger” motif that looks incredibly elaborate.
If it isn’t already apparent, luxury is more than that visual appeal at the very first glance. While bold, striking colours and designs are undoubtedly special, the feel of a piece of ready-to-wear evokes that same kind of experience that luxury fashion should provide. If you’re shelling out upwards of four figures for an outerwear, it better feel every bit as special as it’s made out to be.
Textural pieces are emphasised this season through technical explorations of craft as well as materiality. Fendi’s slew of outerwear ranging from zip-up jackets to knee-length coats have an almost homespun slant with textures that look and feel plush. A plaid coat amps up the tactile experience with raglan sleeves of a contrasting texture from its bodice. Chunky cable knits by Tod’s employ the use of different colours as an example of elevated knitting techniques—they’re also trimmed with contrasting ribbing for added tactility.
What appeared like pony hair on the Hermès runway turns out to be calfskin upon closer inspection. The calfskins used are heavily polished to effect a beautiful pony hair-like sheen that catches light with every movement. And of course, they feel as decadent as they look—all for the wearer to experience and appreciate fashion on a more sensory level.
It was earlier this year on award show red carpets that lapel pins and brooches suddenly became a trend among Hollywood celebrity stylists. Almost every single male celebrity sported a version of one, pairing it with all manner of tailoring.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections are rife with brooches and they’re mostly grandmother-like in nature. You know what we’re talking about—those impossibly bold ’90s designs in shades of gold that our grandmothers used to hold two ends of a scarf together or simply as a piece of statement jewellery to complete an evening jacket. Hey, who said anything about brooches and pins being for a specific gender anyway?
Dolce&Gabbana had a multitude of variations attached to almost every look in its monochromatic collection, while Emporio Armani’s more subdued versions are used to finish relaxed tailoring. In true grandmother fashion, Fendi replaced button fastenings with bejewelled FF brooches as a way of securing coats and cardigans.
Jewellery in menswear has become more prevalent. It’s not unusual to finish an outfit with rings or earrings or even necklaces. The addition of a brooch is a long time coming, and who doesn’t love more options to play around with?
Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere is a marvel in that not only is the brand committed to keeping it fully traceable, the fabrics resulting from it are testament to Zegna’s mastery in innovation. The Autumn/ Winter 2024 collection employs the use of Oasi Cashmere in myriad ways, pushing the limits of cashmere’s use beyond the traditional.
Cashmere over cashmere over cashmere are layered to create monochromatic looks that protect, while reinforcing the idea of luxurious preciousness. They’re shaped into multi-melange cashmere tops and sweaters, cashmere suiting as well as cashmere-backed plongé leather. The latter may seem visually hefty, but are mind-blowingly lightweight in feel. It helps too that Oasi Cashmere benefits from artistic director Alessandro Sartori’s billowy and oversized silhouettes that serve to showcase the material in the best ways possible.
What’s especially evident—and has since become a running theme at Zegna—is that the pieces are timeless in nature. The heavily layered looks are easily broken down to individual pieces that can then be paired with garments from previous as well as upcoming collections. Investments are only as good as their returns and you’d be rest assured that these are definitely every bit bang for your buck.
One would think that with increased digitalisation, the need for bags would become obsolete. But instead, they’re getting bigger than ever. We’ve reached the other end of the spectrum when it comes to bags—it was only a few years ago when bags that could hardly fit a pair of AirPods were a thing.
Thankfully, capacious bags are more functional. If you think about it, they actually make sense for the multifaceted lifestyles that we lead. Whether we’re working from just about anywhere aside from the office, or cram our after-office hours with fitness classes (and more work), a bag that fits in all that’s needed makes a worthy investment.
Balenciaga’s nifty offering is the Bel Air XL Carry All bag that’s designed with a wide front pocket and an incredibly roomy main compartment with two zipped pockets and two flat pockets on the inside. The generous handle drop is non-adjustable but it allows for shoulder as well as hand carry. Gucci’s more traditional shape—you could easily bring this to the office—comes with an extra adjustable shoulder strap. The tote bag in question is crafted in leather that gives its structured shape but is as soft as it is sturdy (as evident from the how the models carried them on the runway).
For part one of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear trends.
A new fashion season often welcomes the introduction of new ideas and fresh perspectives on dressing, even in the simplest details. The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections aren’t any different especially as the industry at large is currently experiencing a slowdown.
There’s a constant conundrum in fashion season after season. As much as brands continuously take creative licenses in seasonal collections—collaborating with a slew of artists, materialising new silhouettes, and crafting interesting narratives—familiarity and wearability are most often paramount to the general consumer. It’s apparent that since the resurgence of minimalism (guised as “quiet luxury”) there’s a growing mindful approach to fashion where appeal goes deeper than first-glance statements.
The slew of menswear collections for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season reflect a more concerted effort at balancing creativity with tried-and-tested staples. However, the offerings aren’t as pared back as Autumn/Winter 2023 when “quiet luxury” was at its peak. There are considered inflexions of more showy displays of techniques and craftsmanship, especially by luxury fashion brands. And even the simpler forms aren’t exactly what they seem.
CELINE’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection marks a return to tailoring for artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane—though if you’ve been a stalwart follower of the man, it has always been there. The full breadth of the collection is a masterclass of Slimane’s penchant for borderline-skintight silhouettes in swathes of blacks and greys and in a number of textural treatments.
The “Symphonie Fantastique” collection as it’s called, is named after a musical piece by French composer Hector Berlioz in 1830, and reflects the romantic tension imbued throughout the pieces in the collection. Intentional structure in form is juxtaposed with the use of luxurious materials, and an adept understanding of how monochromatic layering highlights the cut and make of each tailored piece.
While the cuts are typical by Slimane’s standards, the make on certain pieces is extraordinary. A number of the outerwear (especially the collection’s hallmark gold coat) are essentially couture, employing the use of embroidery specifically placed by hand. And even when they’re not done to that similar level of handcrafted detail, pieces such as a double-face wool suit riddled with rhinestones, or one that looks as though it was specked entirely with gold dust, breathe new life to something that’s considered de rigueur from Slimane.
Love it or hate it, streetwear’s reign within the luxury fashion context has most definitely come to its inevitable end. Streetwear-centric garments, however, have grown to be such quintessential elements of menswear that you’d find them in a variety of iterations across all levels of fashion retail hierarchy.
The pullover hoodie is given due focus this season. No, this isn’t your average go-to that’s become part of your airport fit or the one you’d grab for date nights at the movie theatre. The Autumn/Winter 2024 versions are generally devoid of any graphics or embellishments yet make for strong statements just based on materiality alone. Take for example Burberry’s offerings in super supple leather that even the keenest of eyes could easily mistake for nylon hoodies. Loewe takes it up a notch with leather iterations that reach all the way to the thighs, complete with ribbed trims. Pushing the envelope further, McQueen serves up hoodies that are almost far removed from what you’d expect of a hoodie while still remaining wearable.
For the more pragmatic, Coach’s cotton versions are cut long with a raw edge—and finished with tasteful distressing around the hood—perfect for layering. Or opt for Wooyoungmi’s self-tie hoodie for a piece marked by a style detail that’s effortless and chic.
At Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson’s continued exploration of the parallels between art and fashion has led to a collaboration with American artist Richard Hawkins. Known for his collages that focus on the male body and its portrayals across many different types of media—including fantasised celebrity porn–Hawkins was given carte blanche to create original artworks for the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection.
Hawkins employed the use of an AI script to assist in generating the collages before turning them into paintings. The painted collages are then further broken down and are effectively snippets as they’re translated onto pieces in the collection in true Loewe form. The works are crafted as jacquards and prints on knitwear, while they’re recreated as stunning beaded embellishments on supersized Squeeze bags for men. In certain pieces, different permutations of embroidery, leather marquetry, glass studs, and fringes are paired together to further emphasise the collage nature of Hawkins’ work.
One may be immediately drawn by the male bodies in the artworks, but on closer inspection, the different layers within each collage become more apparent. The disparate elements—messages and graphics—echo the combination of visuals that we’re inundated with on a daily basis and how that informs our reality in some shape or form.
Work-from-home arrangements and the loosening of office dress codes for a majority of industries may be the norm now, but fashion refuses to let ties die. And let’s face it, ties will never really go out of style.
As though in defiance of societal norms (how very fashion), corporate dressing is increasingly gaining traction. It’s almost human nature that we often tend to eagerly act in reverse to convention; we don’t want to abide by strict dress codes but rather have the freedom to do so whenever we feel like it. Ties take centre stage in this wrestle for control as corporate-esque outfits are built around the once-powerful accessory.
Prada’s entire Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection revolves around the idea of corporatewear, splicing them with the desire to escape the confines of the office. Silk ties are the connecting thread that, well, ties the entire collection together as they’re paired with trompe l’œil shirting (some are actually made of Re-Nylon) and trousers attached with leather belts.
Saint Laurent and Sean Suen both reference the past with silhouettes that nod to when ties were a hallmark of traditional menswear. The former has brought back wide ties to match the equally wide lapels of its blazers, while Sean Suen’s printed versions stand out against reimagined classics.
As corporate dress makes a menswear comeback (or “corpcore” as the kids call it these days), you’d be able to find pinstripes in just about every single Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. At its most classic, like at Brunello Cucinelli, the pattern is used as a way of lengthening the overall look of the brand’s double-breasted offerings, while CELINE’s three-piece pinstripe suit gives off the vibe of a menacing mob boss.
Yet, where pinstripes truly make a renewed difference are on atypical pieces far removed from its tailored heritage. Dior Men takes the lead in this approach. The House’s pinstripe creations take on forms that resemble more workwear-inspired pieces. There are pinstripe suiting and coats, but there are also overalls and rompers completely dressed in pinstripes. The pattern immediately imbues these pieces with a sense of sartorial formality that elevates the entire look, especially when worn with more louche pairings within the collection.
There’s also an attempt at making pinstripes somewhat sexy. Burberry’s roomy cut suiting are irreverently worn sans an inner layer or with a deep V-neck sweater, while Onitsuka Tiger opts for a deconstructed knit collar with its modern interpretation of a pinstripe suit.
For part two of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear trends.
When the invite to the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show stated that it was to be held at Paris’ Jardin d’Acclimatation, a recreation of a Western film set was not something anyone could’ve imagined. Yet, there we were, standing next to a shiny, red food truck with an equally red sign (the kind that welcomes you upon crossing state lines in the United States) emblazoned with “Paris LVirginia”.
It was only men’s creative director Pharrell Williams’ third runway show for the Maison but there’s already a sense that the menswear shows are slated to be multi-sensorial experiences. If Williams’ debut on Paris’ Pont Neuf—in view of LVMH-owned Cheval Blanc and La Samaritaine as well as the Louis Vuitton headquarters—included a live band and choir, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show took things a step further.
Past the red sign, the show space brought the American West to Paris. Massive screens spanned the entire indoor circumference, depicting a desert landscape that gradually changed as the full line-up of the collection made its way down a rust-coloured Damier runway. Snow eventually covered the rocky formations and sparse vegetation, culminating in a finale that saw faux snow raining down the show space as powwow group Native Voices of Resistance—comprising singers from Native American nations across North America—captivated with a stirring performance. The show’s soundtrack too featured three more original songs all composed by Williams himself.
In some ways, Williams is continuing the trajectory that his predecessor, the late Virgil Abloh, set Louis Vuitton on—a maison that’s beyond the old-fashioned notions of what a luxury fashion house is. The Louis Vuitton menswear universe especially, is a cultural brand that’s ever-growing and expanding; it’s quintessentially Parisian in essence but draws influences from its global community. It echoes the core of Williams’ LVERS vision where the Maison’s core values of discernment, savoir-faire and travel are seen as a collective eternal source of vitality.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection is a more tightly edited interpretation of the LVERS vision yet. The design aesthetic is clear. Drawing from a foundation of American Western workwear classics with heavy doses of denim, embroidered cowboy shirts, fringed leather jackets and more, the ready-to-wear pieces are reimagined with Louis Vuitton motifs and craftsmanship. Yes, there’s a string of looks drenched in the Maison’s Damier or LV Monogram motifs, but all artistically and creatively tweaked to reflect the collection’s theme. The closing look made sure to get the point across with a suit crafted from leather that was then painstakingly studded to decorate the entirety of the two-piece in the Damier motif.
The details put into each look further elevate the collection from straying into costume territory. Embroidery is a consistent application throughout on denim jackets, Western-style shirting as well as tailoring, while turquoise beading and embellishments are clever extensions of Williams’ penchant for pearls. Leather belts and cowboy hats are trimmed with metal buckles featuring kitschy versions of Louis Vuitton signifiers but grounded with a timeless visual approach to them.
What needs to be appreciated up close are the collection’s bags. While they are dressed in the Maison’s classic fabrications, the Autumn/Winter 2024 iterations are purposely treated to appear sun-eroded and worn out as though they’ve been through several desert heatwaves and sandstorms. They are still as recognisable as any other Louis Vuitton creation, save for the fact that they have much more character to them yet still leaving room for further actual wear and tear.
Williams covered all bases in ensuring that the workwear aspect of the collection is taken seriously. A collaboration with Timberland seems almost unavoidable. The footwear of the collection already took notes from work boots of the American West but the collaboration doubles down on the authenticity through the trusted know-how of the American brand. They’re peppered with Louis Vuitton details on leather accents as well as on the back of each tongue. But as with all things luxury go, especially in the cleverly marketed realm of Louis Vuitton, a number of special editions made their appearance on the runway encased in plexiglass shoe trunks.
The more important collaborations however, are the creative exchanges with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations. Led by creative director Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, the Dakota Flower motif appears on a number of bags and accessories, parfleche-inspired graphics are hand-painted on Keepalls, and charms are plumed with horse hair. Not only do these collaborations echo Williams’ LVERS vision, they also pay due reverence and respect to the cultural nuances of the American West that are often left out of whitewashed conversations and depictions.
The pomp and circumstance of the show are what you’d expect from Louis Vuitton. But look beyond all that and you’d discover a collection that truly celebrates and showcases what its design ethos is all about: highlighting a global community.
Tod’s known craftsmanship and “Made in Italy” ethos are part of the brand’s core values that have made it a household name in fashion. For the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, it’s taking a step further with the Pashmy project. The goal with the Pashmy project is for Tod’s to be a conduit for Italian excellence in terms of material and craftsmanship. The brand is putting in work to source and research for the most exclusive materials as well as the craftsmanship to turn them into unrivalled creations.
One of the earlier instalments of this is the Pashmy bomber jacket. Designed with linear lines, the Pashmy bomber is crafted from goatskin in a range of warm and cool tones and features a water-repellent and stain-resistant treatment. Most exquisitely, the jacket is lightweight and feels like pashmina—hence the name of the project.
The Pashmy project is merely an extension of the technical know-how of Tod’s, pushing the limits of its artisanship further. This is, after all, the same brand that introduced the Gommino to the world in 1979 and effectively changed the footwear game since; making quality products and devising new ways of craft aren’t completely new to Tod’s.
The main Autumn/Winter 2024 collection is testament to the longstanding pursuit of Italian excellence that the brand aims for. There is a more intent focus on ready-to-wear this time around as a studied use of luxurious materials evolves familiar menswear staples. Textural elements and considered detailing add both visual and sensorial interest. Knitwear in the collection showcases a variety of knitting techniques as well as the brand’s capability within the space. Leather jackets take on classic forms with a twist, crafted from stellar leather meant to age and last for years to come.
Pashmy project or not, there is little doubt that Tod’s will continue to uphold its skilled artisanship across every segment of the brand. But with a more committed project spearheading more material innovation, it only signals more exciting things to come in the ready-to-wear portion for a brand already beloved for its footwear.
Il bel vestire, an inherently Italian mindset of turning up well, is something we could all adopt. It shouldn’t entirely be a new concept to any of us, however. The idea of making an effort to turn up for something in a put-together manner is a sign of respect. Not only for the person one is meeting or the event but, most importantly, for one’s self.
It’s no surprise that Brunello Cucinelli has been an unyielding believer of this. Since its inception in 1978, the Italian brand associated with gentle luxury has charted a path of crafting contemporary menswear steeped in sartorial excellence. Its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection focuses on elements that have been exalted as menswear staples and that are interpreted in Brunello Cucinelli’s effortless stylings.
The collection is rooted in ’80s-styled choices. Nothing is slim-fitted or stays close to the skin. Outerwear—a selection of decadent trench coats, overcoats and peacoats—sit squarely on the shoulders with a tailored cut that aims to enhance the physique, yet imbued with an elegant ease. Suiting retains an air of formality, but at the same time, designed to be versatile for most occasions (or non-occasions). The colour palette is one that’s familiar to any Brunello Cucinelli follower: soft and earthy to further emphasise the collection’s ease and versatility.
Lest we forget, tailoring isn’t the be all and end all of sartorial elegance. The collection’s knitwear stand out with tactile craftsmanship, the likes of waffle stitches, flecked yarns and mélange treatments, while shaped into cosy volumes with a refined structure. They’re not afterthoughts; shawl-collared cardigans are washed with soft colours decorated with geometric motifs that, again, call to the ’80s but paired with a denim shirt. You’d easily do a double-take not because of the offbeat choice, but rather in how the pairing makes complete sense and looks just as exceptional.
As it has with the rest of its collections, Brunello Cucinelli executes Autumn/Winter 2024 with a materials-first approach. But this time around, the focus is sharpened to ensure versatile functionality. While there is a certain structure apparent throughout the collection, the materials are kept luxurious with a soft and lightweight hand-feel to exude that signature Brunello Cucinelli ease. Blended fabrics help to elevate even the most casual of pieces as synthetic fibres are combined with the natural, balancing functionality with luxury.
Brunello Cucinelli might deal in the luxury fashion space but it is fair to say that the brand is a way of life—one that is all about turning up and doing it so respectfully well.
Although haute couture was largely controlled by men since its beginning in the 17th century, it has always been regarded as part of the women’s universe—even if men’s fashion during the time had just about the same level of intricacy as women’s. Haute couture has often been in reference to the elaborate court dresses that only master tailors were allowed to produce for noblewomen, while couturières (female designers) could only work on casual dress.
Societal shifts have further segmented fashion terminologies in the present day. Haute couture—while still remaining a male-dominated sector—largely deals with custom pieces for women; the closest male equivalent would be Savile Row’s bespoke tailoring, which, while employing a similar level of custom tailoring, is arguably less labour intensive and intricate than haute couture.
At Dior Men, artistic director Kim Jones’ constant deep dives into the house’s couture heritage have culminated in his first collection of couture pieces for men. Shown during the Rudolf Nureyev-inspired Winter 2024 runway show, the haute couture pieces closed as nods to the ballet dancer’s more flamboyant persona. Familiar menswear silhouettes that reflect nuances of movement and sport are handcrafted with embroideries (inspired by archive ball gowns) and employ the use of traditional techniques.
A silk crepe kimono closed the show. Worn over a romper, it’s one of a few pieces in the collection that was inspired by Nureyev’s collection of vintage textiles and clothing. The particular piece features embroidered tulle ribbons treated in a gradation of hues that seem to endlessly journey throughout the kimono. A silk organza top using the same application is found in a prior look, its sheerness displaying the detailed artistry as the ribbons appear to float and dance around the torso.
It’s fair to say that while the Winter 2024 collection marks Jones’ first haute couture collection for Dior Men, he’s no stranger to adapting couture techniques in past ready-to-wear collections. It’s difficult not to—Dior’s haute couture heritage runs deep with iconic haute couture creations still being referenced by designers within and beyond the house. And if anyone could make men’s haute couture part of the mainstream, it’s Jones.
Do not think of Loro Piana as “quiet luxury”. The Italian brand has been around for 100 years and remains one of the foremost producers of top-quality fabrics used by every luxury fashion house from Yves Saint Laurent to Giorgio Armani to Savile Row’s own Huntsman. Anyone with a go-to tailor would be more than familiar with Loro Piana pre-Succession, as it’s constantly name-dropped by tailors as one of their offerings as a mark of quality.
Ardent customers of Loro Piana are able to distinguish a Loro Piana piece quite easily—if not by look, by touch. The incorporation of its signature vicuña colour as trims, the hidden touches of luxurious comfort (a pocket lined with cashmere for instance), the white soles of the Summer Walk loafers, and more are all telltale signs of a Loro Piana creation.
If you are part of the camp unfamiliar with the brand’s classics, the brand is making it easier to do so. The Loro Piana Icons series is a consolidation of 12 key styles the brand has introduced over the years, each originally designed for a specific activity and then further developed into everyday classics. Collectively, the Icons embody Loro Piana’s ethos of masterfully merging functionality, comfort and versatility through the utmost attention to detail.
Consider the Icons series as a mainstay capsule collection. Pieces like the Horsey (a jacket first introduced in 1992 for the Italian Equestrian Olympic team), the formal Spagna jacket, and the impeccably lightweight and roomy Roadster jacket can each be easily worn over the Polo Open shirt or the Neopolitan-inspired André shirt. Finish with the aforementioned White Sole series—choose between the Summer Walk loafers or the Open Walk boots—or the Sergio Walk loafers, and you are pretty much set.
The Icons series is rather outerwear heavy and there is good reason for that. Not only is the brand known for its quality fabrications, it has also come up with a number of nifty design elements and technologies to enhance functionality. Designed with numerous pockets and an adaptable back and waist, the Voyager jacket is also crafted from waterproof fabric to suit the needs of anyone constantly on the move; the Traveller field jacket is similarly constructed with a waist drawstring for that added versatility. The Storm System treatment is central to the Icer jacket—a cashmere ski jacket that is waterproof and wind-resistant—while Windmate makes the Loro Piana Bomber an indispensable sailing companion as it is lightweight and teamed with the warmth of cashmere.
To complete the 12-piece offering is the Grande Unita scarf. It is the oldest design in the series as it was one of the first finished products introduced by Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana in the 1980s. The cashmere scarf is undoubtedly soft to the touch and is the embodiment of timeless elegance, functionality and comfort.
There is no telling if the Loro Piana Icons series is set to grow in the future, including more of its designs into the fold. If there is one contender that could easily find its way into being an Icon it would be the Bale bag. The leather bag was first introduced in Spring/Summer 2023 as part of the womenswear collection, inspired by cashmere bales. For the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection, the Bale is reintroduced in an extra large hobo style for men while still retaining its unlined construction and bulbous shape. And of course, marked by that steely attention to detail and functionality.
So is Loro Piana “quiet luxury”? At least, only to those not in the know.
When TOMORROW X TOGETHER made their way to Paris for the closing of the Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2024 show season in January this year, they were given the complete Dior experience. The quintet did the usual touristy things—visiting the Louvre and strolling around the Seine—but also had the opportunity to visit La Galerie Dior, the exhibition space located within the House's iconic 30 Avenue Montaigne address.
Throughout their adventures around Paris, TOMORROW X TOGETHER were dressed completely in Dior Men, ranging from artistic director Kim Jones' more casual streetwear-leaning proposals to impeccable tailoring that stayed true to the haute couture spirit of the House. The latter was on elegant display as the group entered (to a cacophony of screams and camera clicks, no less) the show space of the Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show at Paris' École Militaire in the city's seventh arrondissement.
TOMORROW X TOGETHER's outfits were a calculated move, both by the group as well as the House. Tapping on his own personal experiences and roots—as he often does time and time again at Dior Men—Jones' inspiration for the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection revolved around the perceived reality of a ballet dancer's life versus the actual reality of it. The ballet dancer in question is Soviet-born Rudolf Nureyev, one of the most renowned male ballet dancers in the world and just so happens to be a friend of Jones' uncle, photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones.
Before delving deeper into the inspiration behind the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection, it's important to note that the very beginnings of the collection was an exploration of Monsieur Dior's own relationship with ballet. English ballerina Margot Fonteyn is said to have first discovered the house of Dior in 1948 while on a trip to Paris and became a fan of its creations. A friendship with Monsieur Dior naturally developed and Fonteyn often chose to wear Dior on numerous occasions.
This is where an almost unbelievable happenstance begins. Fonteyn's most famous dance partner is none other than Nureyev—effectively linking Monsieur Dior and Jones in the most amazing way.
"When Colin became a photographer, he maintained strong links to the ballet world and, in 1966, Time Life asked him to document a day in the life of Nureyev, regarded by some as the greatest male ballet dancer of his generation. Bonded through their shared history and mutual sense of fun and mischief, the pair went on to forge a great friendship," explains Jones.
The resulting Dior Men Winter 2024 is one of contrasts: the difference between ready-to-wear and couture, between onstage and backstage, and between the life of Nureyev theatrically and in reality. "Here, it is a meeting of the dancer's style with that of the Dior archive," expresses Jones.
There's no doubt that Jones is already more than familiar with crafting from points of contrasts. His oeuvre at Dior Men has always been merging elegant signatures from the archives with contemporary stylings. The Winter 2024 collection takes references from Saint Laurent's time at Dior, translating the late designer's tailored volumes, vents, pleats and necklines. The iconic Bar jacket created by Monsieur Dior is contextualised once again, this time, combined with Jones' very own Oblique tailoring.
While the runway collection is imbued with more extravagant flounces as well as the debut of Dior Men's haute couture—as nods to Nureyev's theatrical career—the dramatic flair as seen on TOMORROW X TOGETHER are more nuanced. '60s- and '70s-inspired tailoring are cut with a rigid straightforwardness, especially in the single-breasted variations, that are then paired with gently flared trousers. Conversely, the collection's more commercial pieces lend a more streetwear air. Take this as the contemporary equivalent of a dancer's off-duty look with slouchy cardigans and hoodies worn over essential white T-shirts and paired with the roomiest of trousers.
It may be a stretch to compare the duality of Nureyev's life with that of TOMORROW X TOGETHER's, given that the former didn't have to contend with the accessibility of social media and in turn, the almost instant, global fame achieved by TOMORROW X TOGETHER. Yet, what remains a similarity is in the versatility and adaptability of both to weave in and out of their lives onstage and off that echo that contrast of two opposing worlds within the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Animation: Joan Tai
Louis Vuitton men's creative director Pharrell Williams tapped on Western Americana for his third runway collection for the Maison. Replete with Western motifs—think old-Western cowboys, denims, heavy buckles and more—the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection twists these elements with the Maison's signature design vocabulary for a contemporary take on workwear silhouettes.
Sure, they may be primed for the desert and rough terrains (especially with the collaboration with Timberland) but the collection is equally suited for the city with craft-centric versatile pieces. Any way the wind blows—that's pretty much where you'd be able to wear them.
Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Grooming: Christian M
Photography Assistant: Chaw Wei Kang
Model: Hayate O at MANNEQUIN
Earlier this January, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show explored the American Western roots of workwear, blending the Maison's craftsmanship with dandy-esque elegance, utility, and comfort. The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection—a core part of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection—reflects the meticulous LVERS ethos guided by creative director Pharrell Williams.
Focusing on the versatility and durability of the refined suits and overdyed jacquards, the capsule collection features reimagined workwear staples in browns, blacks, and beiges. Western-inspired yokes and leather appliqués adorn trucker jackets and coats with sculptural cuts, echoing the American workwear's functional lines. They're complemented by turquoise-like buttons, pearls, embroideries, and studs as a beautiful showcase of the Maison's savoir-faire.
Doubling down on the workwear inspiration, Louis Vuitton introduces the Keepall 50 Toolbox: a utilitarian take on the Maison's iconic bag. Crafted in natural leather with its preserved earthy nuance, the Keepall 50 Toolbox echoes the rugged functionality of American workwear with multiple exterior pockets, rivets, and lined in coated Monogram canvas.
The capsule completes the accessories line-up with an engraved flash and cigarette case reminiscent of the American West, along with a silk scarf paying homage to its key accessories.
The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection by Pharrell Williams is further enhanced by a collaboration with Timberland. Synonymous with workwear, the American brand is a fitting partner to showcase Louis Vuitton's craftsmanship applied to the real-life practicality of its footwear.
The reimagined LV x Timberland 6-inch boot—developed with Timberland and crafted in the Maison's Italian shoe atelier Fiesso d'Artico—is available in two designs. Each iteration features premium Italian nubuck leather, an insulation system, and seam-sealed waterproof construction. The boots are distinguished by their signature rubber lug outsole detailed with LV Monogram embossing (a treatment that's also visible on the underside of the tongue), LV eyelets, and leather tag adornments.
Amplifying the 6-Inch silhouette by 15 per cent is the LV x Timberland Boot. Available in five distinct styles, each features a robust rubber lug outsole. An ankle boot in wheat or black grained leather is adorned with a Monogram-embossed tongue lining and leather tag details; a ranger boot features an extended shaft, lace hooks and strap embellishments; a pull-on mid boot is topped with bag puller accents; and a pull-on harness boot with side buckles and a harness. All of the five styles are available in either wheat or black colourways.
But the most impressive and available in limited-edition quantities of 50, is the LV 6-Inch Exceptional Edition. Designed in collaboration across Louis Vuitton's shoe, jewellery, and hard-sided experts, this unique boot features Classic Monogram premium Italian leather with bespoke rubber lug outsoles for an extra distinctive touch. The boots are also adorned with 18K gold LV tongue initials, eyelets, lace tips, and tag hardware. Engraved on the LV tongue initials is "THE SUN IS SHINING ON US", echoing sentiments from Williams' debut Louis Vuitton show last June. And true to form, this Exceptional Edition is housed in a custom Monogram leather and plexiglass shoebox with VVN trims, as showcased on the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway.
The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection by Pharrell Williams is now pre-launched online and on the LV app. The capsule collection will be available at the Louis Vuitton Marina Bay Sands Island Maison from 8 August 2024.
Depending on the nature and mechanics of a fashion brand, a creative director has but two key chances to debut—one for a womenswear collection, and one for menswear. Gucci’s return to separate runway shows for its main seasonal collections (since the Autumn/Winter 2023 season) afforded Sabato De Sarno with such a luxury.
Having said that, first impressions are still weighed heavily and critically in fashion. De Sarno’s official debut was Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection and it was an expectantly different aesthetic from the House’s previous creative director. Called “Ancora”, the collection alluded to the Italian word’s multiple meanings, mainly “again” (a reiteration of House codes), “more” (a desire that De Sarno wants to evoke) as well as Gucci’s own interpretation, “also now, also then” as a metaphor for the continued reverence of its heritage and the possibilities of the future.
The Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was an aesthetically pared back collection that saw a shift from excessive embellishments to focused cuts and silhouettes. De Sarno envisions a Gucci that relies less on the pomp and circumstance of abject eccentricity. This new Gucci—or is it born-again Gucci?—seemed to take its cues from what a young, modern Italian woman would want in her wardrobe. The collection was a dialogue of what was already happening on the streets albeit elevated and made more luxurious with its use of materials.
It’s inevitable that the receptions were split. Coming off the heels of a predecessor continuously credited with the House’s contemporary revival is no walk in the park, especially when the new direction is far removed from that of the past seven years. But what many fail to understand is that a creative direction isn’t born from just one single collection alone—it takes time to cook.
And cook De Sarno did.
If the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was an appetiser in De Sarno’s Gucci, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection is the main course. It is ‘meatier’ with menswear proposals that offer newness without the need to shout, while at the same time, grounded by a sense of approachability. One doesn’t need to be a style maven or have a certain kind of inclination to partake in Gucci any more. There’s a sense of that oft-used adage in fashion: wear the clothes, don’t let the clothes wear you.
The show had a rather diverse celebrity guest list that reflected the collection’s more malleable personality. Idris Elba’s imposing stature lent a gentlemanly presence to an all-over GG monogram coat, Elliot Page kept things simple and chic with a tailored base under a blouson, Jay Park bravely showed off chest tattoos by going bare under a bomber jacket (it was still winter at the time of the show), and Gucci campaign star Kingsley Ben-Adir finished his Canadian tuxedo with Ancora red Horsebit loafers. Save for the Gucci-branded elements in their ensembles, everyone looked characteristically different, each wearing Gucci their own way.
That is not to say that the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection lacks a style point-of-view—that’s hardly the case. Like for his debut, De Sarno presented a clean slate focused on impeccably tailored pieces and in colours that aren’t out of the reach of the average man. Tailored trousers are slim and end right at the ankle, effectively lengthening the legs. Suit blazers and coats feature classic, strong shoulders, while other outerwear in the collection have slightly dropped shoulders and are cut decidedly oversized. There’s nary a sneaker in sight; variations of the Horsebit loafers showcase the design’s versatility as it’s manipulated with different embellishments, heels, and outsoles to exude different vibes.
As cliché as it may sound, the devil is in the details. Monochromatic suiting feature intentional deep creases at points where they would have eventually formed with wear. The collection’s defining accessory, De Sarno’s take on the cravat, consists of a long strip of fabric wrapped around the neck and secured by metal hardware. The details continue at the back—outerwear vents reveal Gucci’s signature tricoloured webbing, leather jackets are embossed with “Gucci” at the hem, and even socks give peeks of webbing at the heel.
There is a studied intention in the way that De Sarno executed the collection. The details all call to a more subtle Gucci. Sure, the GG monogram remains a prevalent branding device and appears in a trio of in-your-face looks within the collection, but they are only a small portion and still done very elegantly. The rest of the collection is an emphasis on Gucci’s heritage and leitmotifs that have gone on to become timeless icons.
Speaking of timeless icons, the Jackie bag is reenvisioned in a proportionally more masculine size. The extra-large upgrade retains every single element of De Sarno’s iteration of the Jackie, including the new hook closure that differentiates itself from the piston closure of the Jackie 1961 series as well as the original. It’s clear that De Sarno intends for the hook closure to become a new Gucci signature, much like the horsebit. It is positioned as the aforementioned metal hardware of the collection’s neck accessory and also incorporated into a new leather crossbody bag. The latter is a more minimal version of the Jackie—a similar crescent-shaped silhouette but in a softer construction and without too many frills—with a top zipped closure, taken from the House’s archives.
De Sarno is undoubtedly crafting a Gucci that is centred on timeless elegance. In place of the shock factor that its previous creative director had created time after time—something that eventually became a rather predictable modus operandi—De Sarno is reenforcing Gucci’s tailoring and craftsmanship as well as house icons while introducing new ones. And most importantly, he is priming these signatures to be relevant not just for now but for years to come. Isn’t that a good thing to have once again?
The Saint Laurent Winter 2024 runway show was a departure from its Summer 2024 one, but only conceptually. Saint Laurent doesn't shy away from the duality of the male spirit. It's apparent in the House's throng of global famous faces adopted into its fold—from rock legend Lenny Kravitz to younger upstarts the likes of Austin Butler, Mark Tuan, and Ten Lee of NCT U—who all, while exuding an air of elegance, are more than stereotypical masculine tropes.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello has been reiterating Saint Laurent's masculine-feminine tension for a few seasons now. While typically shown during different fashion week calendars, the womenswear and menswear collections have effectively been mirror images of each other. There's been a consistency in aesthetic where Vaccarello would borrow womenswear silhouettes and fabrications for menswear, while the latter's cut would dictate the form of the womenswear collections.
For Winter 2024, the menswear show was somewhat of a surprise. Instead of showing during January's Paris Fashion Week Men's or completely off schedule (like Summer 2024's in Berlin), the Saint Laurent Winter 2024 show was about a week apart from the womenswear show—further blurring the lines between the two. But the actual surprise was the collection itself. After seasons of embodying a softer side of the Saint Laurent man, Vaccarello opted to switch things up at Paris' Bourse de Commerce (also the site of one of my personal favourite runway shows by the creative director).
The fit: Right from the first look, there was little doubt that the collection wouldn't be following a similar formula of collections prior. It was classic, almost too classic, veering on old-school. A grey double-breasted suit paired with a white shirt and (gasp!) a striped tie of significant width. There was a decidedly '80s feel to the entire ensemble but perhaps only on first glance. The wide, peak lapels of the blazer were matched in intensity with the shirt collar. Yet there were nuances of contemporary flair: the overall silhouette was still very languid and soft with a strong-shoulder anchor; the blazer was cut straight with a deliciously roomy give; and while still respecting the traditional rule of a peek of shirt cuff under the blazer, sleeves were lengthened just enough to strike away any old-school notion.
This classic-made-new combination continued on throughout the entire Winter 2024 collection. There were a few outerwear-focused looks interspersed—the liquid-like rubber propositions looked otherworldly—but the main star was the gradual dissolution of the formality of that very first look. As the show went on, the suit became lighter and more fluid both in construction as well as colours, while shirts returned to their Saint Laurent-silk normality with matching ties.
The details: The aforementioned rubber outerwear weren't just for mere drama. Vaccarello reimagined a '60s archival reference with a structured rubber peacoat worn with a leather hat that it's connected to (look 7). Beautiful things can indeed be functional.
If you were missing the silk blouses—seen aplenty on the front row—Vaccerello offered up a number in rich hues that echoed the tail end of the line-up. Although if you were looking out for classic Saint Laurent pointed boots and footwear, they were replaced with square-toed variants that added so much gravitas.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's all-black drama punctuated by that rubber coat; look 28's sublime colour combination; and an olive green version in look 37 that I would've never considered up till now.
The takeaway: Covered up as compared to previous collections yes, but the Saint Laurent man is still as sexy as Vaccarello has made him to be.
View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
