Earlier this January, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show explored the American Western roots of workwear, blending the Maison's craftsmanship with dandy-esque elegance, utility, and comfort. The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection—a core part of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection—reflects the meticulous LVERS ethos guided by creative director Pharrell Williams.
Focusing on the versatility and durability of the refined suits and overdyed jacquards, the capsule collection features reimagined workwear staples in browns, blacks, and beiges. Western-inspired yokes and leather appliqués adorn trucker jackets and coats with sculptural cuts, echoing the American workwear's functional lines. They're complemented by turquoise-like buttons, pearls, embroideries, and studs as a beautiful showcase of the Maison's savoir-faire.
Doubling down on the workwear inspiration, Louis Vuitton introduces the Keepall 50 Toolbox: a utilitarian take on the Maison's iconic bag. Crafted in natural leather with its preserved earthy nuance, the Keepall 50 Toolbox echoes the rugged functionality of American workwear with multiple exterior pockets, rivets, and lined in coated Monogram canvas.
The capsule completes the accessories line-up with an engraved flash and cigarette case reminiscent of the American West, along with a silk scarf paying homage to its key accessories.
The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection by Pharrell Williams is further enhanced by a collaboration with Timberland. Synonymous with workwear, the American brand is a fitting partner to showcase Louis Vuitton's craftsmanship applied to the real-life practicality of its footwear.
The reimagined LV x Timberland 6-inch boot—developed with Timberland and crafted in the Maison's Italian shoe atelier Fiesso d'Artico—is available in two designs. Each iteration features premium Italian nubuck leather, an insulation system, and seam-sealed waterproof construction. The boots are distinguished by their signature rubber lug outsole detailed with LV Monogram embossing (a treatment that's also visible on the underside of the tongue), LV eyelets, and leather tag adornments.
Amplifying the 6-Inch silhouette by 15 per cent is the LV x Timberland Boot. Available in five distinct styles, each features a robust rubber lug outsole. An ankle boot in wheat or black grained leather is adorned with a Monogram-embossed tongue lining and leather tag details; a ranger boot features an extended shaft, lace hooks and strap embellishments; a pull-on mid boot is topped with bag puller accents; and a pull-on harness boot with side buckles and a harness. All of the five styles are available in either wheat or black colourways.
But the most impressive and available in limited-edition quantities of 50, is the LV 6-Inch Exceptional Edition. Designed in collaboration across Louis Vuitton's shoe, jewellery, and hard-sided experts, this unique boot features Classic Monogram premium Italian leather with bespoke rubber lug outsoles for an extra distinctive touch. The boots are also adorned with 18K gold LV tongue initials, eyelets, lace tips, and tag hardware. Engraved on the LV tongue initials is "THE SUN IS SHINING ON US", echoing sentiments from Williams' debut Louis Vuitton show last June. And true to form, this Exceptional Edition is housed in a custom Monogram leather and plexiglass shoebox with VVN trims, as showcased on the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway.
The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection by Pharrell Williams is now pre-launched online and on the LV app. The capsule collection will be available at the Louis Vuitton Marina Bay Sands Island Maison from 8 August 2024.
Depending on the nature and mechanics of a fashion brand, a creative director has but two key chances to debut—one for a womenswear collection, and one for menswear. Gucci’s return to separate runway shows for its main seasonal collections (since the Autumn/Winter 2023 season) afforded Sabato De Sarno with such a luxury.
Having said that, first impressions are still weighed heavily and critically in fashion. De Sarno’s official debut was Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection and it was an expectantly different aesthetic from the House’s previous creative director. Called “Ancora”, the collection alluded to the Italian word’s multiple meanings, mainly “again” (a reiteration of House codes), “more” (a desire that De Sarno wants to evoke) as well as Gucci’s own interpretation, “also now, also then” as a metaphor for the continued reverence of its heritage and the possibilities of the future.
The Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was an aesthetically pared back collection that saw a shift from excessive embellishments to focused cuts and silhouettes. De Sarno envisions a Gucci that relies less on the pomp and circumstance of abject eccentricity. This new Gucci—or is it born-again Gucci?—seemed to take its cues from what a young, modern Italian woman would want in her wardrobe. The collection was a dialogue of what was already happening on the streets albeit elevated and made more luxurious with its use of materials.
It’s inevitable that the receptions were split. Coming off the heels of a predecessor continuously credited with the House’s contemporary revival is no walk in the park, especially when the new direction is far removed from that of the past seven years. But what many fail to understand is that a creative direction isn’t born from just one single collection alone—it takes time to cook.
And cook De Sarno did.
If the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was an appetiser in De Sarno’s Gucci, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection is the main course. It is ‘meatier’ with menswear proposals that offer newness without the need to shout, while at the same time, grounded by a sense of approachability. One doesn’t need to be a style maven or have a certain kind of inclination to partake in Gucci any more. There’s a sense of that oft-used adage in fashion: wear the clothes, don’t let the clothes wear you.
The show had a rather diverse celebrity guest list that reflected the collection’s more malleable personality. Idris Elba’s imposing stature lent a gentlemanly presence to an all-over GG monogram coat, Elliot Page kept things simple and chic with a tailored base under a blouson, Jay Park bravely showed off chest tattoos by going bare under a bomber jacket (it was still winter at the time of the show), and Gucci campaign star Kingsley Ben-Adir finished his Canadian tuxedo with Ancora red Horsebit loafers. Save for the Gucci-branded elements in their ensembles, everyone looked characteristically different, each wearing Gucci their own way.
That is not to say that the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection lacks a style point-of-view—that’s hardly the case. Like for his debut, De Sarno presented a clean slate focused on impeccably tailored pieces and in colours that aren’t out of the reach of the average man. Tailored trousers are slim and end right at the ankle, effectively lengthening the legs. Suit blazers and coats feature classic, strong shoulders, while other outerwear in the collection have slightly dropped shoulders and are cut decidedly oversized. There’s nary a sneaker in sight; variations of the Horsebit loafers showcase the design’s versatility as it’s manipulated with different embellishments, heels, and outsoles to exude different vibes.
As cliché as it may sound, the devil is in the details. Monochromatic suiting feature intentional deep creases at points where they would have eventually formed with wear. The collection’s defining accessory, De Sarno’s take on the cravat, consists of a long strip of fabric wrapped around the neck and secured by metal hardware. The details continue at the back—outerwear vents reveal Gucci’s signature tricoloured webbing, leather jackets are embossed with “Gucci” at the hem, and even socks give peeks of webbing at the heel.
There is a studied intention in the way that De Sarno executed the collection. The details all call to a more subtle Gucci. Sure, the GG monogram remains a prevalent branding device and appears in a trio of in-your-face looks within the collection, but they are only a small portion and still done very elegantly. The rest of the collection is an emphasis on Gucci’s heritage and leitmotifs that have gone on to become timeless icons.
Speaking of timeless icons, the Jackie bag is reenvisioned in a proportionally more masculine size. The extra-large upgrade retains every single element of De Sarno’s iteration of the Jackie, including the new hook closure that differentiates itself from the piston closure of the Jackie 1961 series as well as the original. It’s clear that De Sarno intends for the hook closure to become a new Gucci signature, much like the horsebit. It is positioned as the aforementioned metal hardware of the collection’s neck accessory and also incorporated into a new leather crossbody bag. The latter is a more minimal version of the Jackie—a similar crescent-shaped silhouette but in a softer construction and without too many frills—with a top zipped closure, taken from the House’s archives.
De Sarno is undoubtedly crafting a Gucci that is centred on timeless elegance. In place of the shock factor that its previous creative director had created time after time—something that eventually became a rather predictable modus operandi—De Sarno is reenforcing Gucci’s tailoring and craftsmanship as well as house icons while introducing new ones. And most importantly, he is priming these signatures to be relevant not just for now but for years to come. Isn’t that a good thing to have once again?
The Saint Laurent Winter 2024 runway show was a departure from its Summer 2024 one, but only conceptually. Saint Laurent doesn't shy away from the duality of the male spirit. It's apparent in the House's throng of global famous faces adopted into its fold—from rock legend Lenny Kravitz to younger upstarts the likes of Austin Butler, Mark Tuan, and Ten Lee of NCT U—who all, while exuding an air of elegance, are more than stereotypical masculine tropes.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello has been reiterating Saint Laurent's masculine-feminine tension for a few seasons now. While typically shown during different fashion week calendars, the womenswear and menswear collections have effectively been mirror images of each other. There's been a consistency in aesthetic where Vaccarello would borrow womenswear silhouettes and fabrications for menswear, while the latter's cut would dictate the form of the womenswear collections.
For Winter 2024, the menswear show was somewhat of a surprise. Instead of showing during January's Paris Fashion Week Men's or completely off schedule (like Summer 2024's in Berlin), the Saint Laurent Winter 2024 show was about a week apart from the womenswear show—further blurring the lines between the two. But the actual surprise was the collection itself. After seasons of embodying a softer side of the Saint Laurent man, Vaccarello opted to switch things up at Paris' Bourse de Commerce (also the site of one of my personal favourite runway shows by the creative director).
The fit: Right from the first look, there was little doubt that the collection wouldn't be following a similar formula of collections prior. It was classic, almost too classic, veering on old-school. A grey double-breasted suit paired with a white shirt and (gasp!) a striped tie of significant width. There was a decidedly '80s feel to the entire ensemble but perhaps only on first glance. The wide, peak lapels of the blazer were matched in intensity with the shirt collar. Yet there were nuances of contemporary flair: the overall silhouette was still very languid and soft with a strong-shoulder anchor; the blazer was cut straight with a deliciously roomy give; and while still respecting the traditional rule of a peek of shirt cuff under the blazer, sleeves were lengthened just enough to strike away any old-school notion.
This classic-made-new combination continued on throughout the entire Winter 2024 collection. There were a few outerwear-focused looks interspersed—the liquid-like rubber propositions looked otherworldly—but the main star was the gradual dissolution of the formality of that very first look. As the show went on, the suit became lighter and more fluid both in construction as well as colours, while shirts returned to their Saint Laurent-silk normality with matching ties.
The details: The aforementioned rubber outerwear weren't just for mere drama. Vaccarello reimagined a '60s archival reference with a structured rubber peacoat worn with a leather hat that it's connected to (look 7). Beautiful things can indeed be functional.
If you were missing the silk blouses—seen aplenty on the front row—Vaccerello offered up a number in rich hues that echoed the tail end of the line-up. Although if you were looking out for classic Saint Laurent pointed boots and footwear, they were replaced with square-toed variants that added so much gravitas.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's all-black drama punctuated by that rubber coat; look 28's sublime colour combination; and an olive green version in look 37 that I would've never considered up till now.
The takeaway: Covered up as compared to previous collections yes, but the Saint Laurent man is still as sexy as Vaccarello has made him to be.
View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Nostalagia hit the runway at the Burberry Winter 2024 show. Not only was the show's soundtrack a selection of Amy Winehouse's songs—"You Know I'm No Good", "In My Bed", "Half Time", and "Back to Black"—the show was opened by Agnyess Deyn. And if you were in your teens in the 2000s like me, Deyn would be a familiar name and figure—an English model known for her platinum blonde pixie cut and a fashion inspiration for girls and boys of the time.
The fashion served a similar platter of nostalgia. Chief creative officer Daniel Lee refocused his attention towards the military heritage of Burberry for the Winter 2024 collection with a colour palette that captured the earthy tones of the outdoors. Now that the new brand signifiers have been put in place—the Equestrian Knight Design, the Burberry knight blue and key bags emblematic of Lee's creative direction—its the coats that were reworked with a further military slant.
The fit: Trench coats took on new forms both in silhouette as well as the way they were worn. Instead of belting to accentuate the waist, the belt was tied from the back for a more minimal front. The collar was turned up and buttoned up to create a funnel neck (practical for the colder seasons). The trench coats were also dressed with the oversized epaulettes that were first introduced in Lee's debut collection for Burberry, as well as new keyring hardware that zipped up the front of the coat to the storm flap. The latter an example of Lee's penchant for decorative hardware at Burberry.
There was a decidedly oversized silhouette employed throughout the collection, exuding a sense of warmth and protection that Lee intended. But also, an extension of a signature British aesthetic prevalent on the streets.
Duffle coats and field jackets took on more voluminous forms as they were either crafted from fleecy wool or trimmed with a burst of braided fringing. Zippers on these outerwear were extended to trousers too, with each side consisting of three zipper pulls to allow for creative manipulation. They're reminiscent of those trackpants lined with buttons along the sides that were a big part of the noughties, but here, the attention was front and centre.
The details: On the bags front, a variation of the Trench Tote bag seemed to be a key push. Constructed with zippered sides, they were available in a number of materials with the standout being the ones featuring the Burberry check. And if I'm being honest, a more superior version that the original. The Shield bag, on the other hand, received a more functional upgrade with an exterior compartment.
While the knight blue wasn't part of the colour palette, it wasn't completely stripped from the Burberry Winter 2024 collection—its Lee's coloured signifier for the brand, after all. With every step of each model, the colour peeked through from the soles of every footwear. Not that we need to be reminded of how much that colour is now a part of Burberry (there's a whole knight blue takeover of Harrods that's still going on), but perhaps it's one of those subliminal messaging cleverly employed.
Three exceptional looks: Look 7 had the makings of being the next go-to fit for every British renegade youth; the easy and comfort-first look 19 with that plush mustard vest; and look 48's moleskin trench that's cool in every way.
The takeaway: I'm inclined to say that this is the best Lee for Burberry collection yet.
View the full Burberry Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
The fit: The Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was an intimate one. Held salon-style at its Parisian headquarters, the collection was designed by the Givenchy studio—Matthew M. Williams' final collection was for Pre-Autumn 2024. To be honest, even without the hand of a known creative director, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection felt a lot more refined with just enough injections of playful modern nuances.
The entire collection was based on founder Hubert de Givenchy's personal wardrobe with elements that he had a penchant for. The use of the colour sapphire, for example, was adopted because de Givenchy adored it as a replacement for black, while cut up armholes of outerwear were an ode to his penchant for capes. Tailoring was central to the collection—although trousers could have done with a little bit of length adjustments but I'm just nitpicking—with suits and tailored outerwear making up a bulk of the collection. And in true Givenchy style, the shoulders were strong and cutting.
The details: Fun came with the way that an archival cat motif was incorporated into some of the looks. It was done tongue-in-cheek as a oversized parka that featured a number of the cat faces seemingly drowning in their own fur, and in another, the fur took on the form of a shearling jacket-cape hybrid. In look 18, it became a mini shearling crossbody that was paired with a tank featuring the print.
What was quite a stunner, especially up close, was the closing look's jacket. Beautifully ornate, the jacket was a reminder of the kind of craftsmanship that the design studio is capable of, and one that had been sorely missed on the runways.
Three exceptional looks: Look 2's interpretation of the studio's blouse blanche as a workwear staple; the double cardigan styling of look 13; and the closing look.
The takeaway: Not all luxury fashion houses need to infuse some semblance of streetwear into their designs.
View the full Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Within the realm of menswear tailoring, the structures and limits are palpable, owing to the time-honoured techniques of not only constructing a suit, but also in the idea of tailoring as a garment of authority. Chinese designer Sean Suen recognises this. His eponymous label's Autumn/Winter 2024 collection—and also, pretty much his entire repertoire thus far—tapped on the conventions of tailoring by referencing the period where Western tailoring began being adopted by the East.
There's an undeniably rebellious take on tailoring, and I'm not even talking about the one look where the model revealed some derrière. Traditional menswear silhouettes were deconstructed before being spliced together, creating asymmetrical shapes that formed beautiful drapes. At the heart of it was a '50s-led reference with wide ties and geometric prints indicative of the period.
The details: While the tailoring was, in every sense, contemporary, Suen included mandarin-collared suiting. But of course, they were also rendered in more contemporary styles—the first outing saw elongated sleeves with an oversized bodice with equally oversized patch pockets.
On a number of looks, Suen piled on the waistbands. On a number of occasions, they took on the appearance of a visible ribbed knit layer (akin to that play of visible boxer waistbands) while others were more literal interpretations of a double layer of trouser waistbands.
Three exceptional looks: Look 2 and its spliced collar and draped asymmetry; the obvious old-school reference of look 11 but made fresh; and the regality of look 27 that had tie bars used as lapel pins.
The takeaway: There are always ways to move around the preconceived confines of menswear, and Sean Suen is becoming quite a master at it.
View the full Sean Suen Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Dries Van Noten can do no wrong in my eyes. There's consistency in his design aesthetic—you can definitely tell a Dries Van Noten piece even with the brand steering away from obvious logos and branding—but Papa Dries offers something new every season.
For Autumn/Winter 2024, the man known for his play with prints and proportions, kicked things off with a string of dark tailored looks. Each felt different and at times disjointed from the one before—yet that was the unifying narrative. The collection was a play in the unexpected and of juxtaposition. There was no telling what the next look would be as he moved from a cuttingly tailored suit worn almost rock-and-roll-like with a fringed, long scarf, to a deconstructed jumper worn over a languid, long coat.
As the darks became increasingly punctuated by textures and infusions of muted colours, Papa Dries revealed a sudden spate of his signature prints and colour-blocking. But at the same time, they remained washed and pared back in intensity.
The details: There was a studied use of garments in non-traditional ways. Jumpers were worn either unzipped from the side or completely cropped with zippered hems. Leather was used as mock-neck tops, while shirting and a number of jackets were fastened with brooches and pins for a rakish drape that was simply sublime. Long opera-like gloves took on many different forms and added edge to some of the simplest tailoring and combinations in the collection.
But at the end of it all, everything was wearable—a key Dries Van Noten element.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9 that I honestly wanted to wear right there and then off the runway; look 24's brilliant use of textures and draping; and look 53 that's a combination of both.
The takeaway: Whatever Papa Dries has been doing to keep his creativity constantly fresh yet consistent, I want it.
View the full Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Kenzo was my last show for day four of Paris Fashion Week Men's and after a rather exhausting day, it personally wasn't as exciting as it ought to be in the moment. The venue was spectacular, however. Held at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, the space offered a brilliant backdrop for an Autumn/Winter 2024 collection themed around the cross-cultural exchange of the origins of the fictional universe of the Star Wars franchise.
Thankfully, artistic director Nigo opted to not be literal with the inspiration—there weren't obvious nods to the films nor were there prints done in collaboration with the franchise. But rather, he chose to incorporate the Asian influences of the Star Wars lore and references into the silhouettes. Outerwear had semblances of sci-fi with knot fastenings adorning the front.
The details: The silhouettes may not have been severe or fashion-forward, but the prints added some punch to the entire collection. A woven pattern inspired by Japanese hikeshi-banten fireman's jackets appeared on everything from suits to workwear, while a number of different tiger motifs were rendered in jacquards and embroideries.
Three exceptional looks: Look 6's more extravagant coords that featured the collection's more standout motif; look 30's streamlined tailoring; and look 50 that felt more Kenzo by Nigo.
The takeaway: Elevated and streamlined, yes. But where's the fun?
View the full Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
The look—that pretty much sums up the Giorgio Armani's latest menswear outing during Milan Fashion Week Men's. The staging for the show was intimate with two separate timings (this style director might have misread his invite and turned up for the wrong time slot) and with almost zero information given. And up till now, there's no official collection notes for the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection.
The reason? Mr Armani wants the reactions and reviews to be organic points-of-view untainted by his personal intentions behind the collection. And quite honestly, that's a rarity. And also a beautiful thing, because as a fashion journalist/writer/editor you're then left to give an opinion based solely on what's seen and experienced.
So here it goes...
The fit: From the very first moment that the opening look came onto the runway, there's no denying that it's a Giorgio Armani creation. The ease and fluidity of the suit was an Armani classic, but tweaked. The shoulders were dropped ever so slightly, with the bodice cut oversized. The effect was a decidedly oversized fit done with intent such that the model still looked well-proportioned instead of seemingly swimming in fabric.
The idea ran throughout the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection. Classic menswear suiting fabrications—herringbone, Prince of Wales checks, houndstooth—were reimagined in roomier cuts and their patterns manipulated just enough for an update. They're paired with signature Giorgio Armani geometric motifs set against a relatively muted palette of favourites the likes of blacks, greys, and navies, but at times, with a flash of bright hues to keep things interesting.
The details: There's not much in the accessories department to speak off (Giorgio Armani isn't exactly an accessories house) but the small pouches with braided straps in the more technical ski-ready portion of the collection looked like a steady combination of form and function.
We do however, need to talk about the styling. A number of the looks had trouser hems stuffed into boots, which is hardly a groundbreaking idea but served to further emphasise the cut and airiness of the fabrics used, even with the seemingly thicker wools.
Three exceptional looks: Look 4's somewhat mismatched combination that looks irreverently cool; the coordinate in look 23 that's simple but beautifully executed; and look 31's lapel-less suiting.
The takeaway: If it ain't broke, don't fix it—or maybe just a tad.
View some of the Giorgio Armani Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Unlike most other brands, Hermès always does things a little differently. While it's become common practice for brands to furnish fashion editors and journalists with a list of celebrities who will be attending their shows (we've sadly all become glorified paparazzis), Hermès does nothing of the sort. In fact, I attempted to press the Hermès Singapore team multiple times so that I can be prepared for who to look out for before the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show for soundbites and general content, but they maintained that they themselves had no clue.
But there they were. A sizeable number of celebrities—both established and up-and-coming—entered the Palais d'Iena to a runway show audience that was mingling with pre-show drinks in hand. James Marsden walked in wearing a suit over a white turtleneck. And from the corner of my eye, in an outfit from Hermès' Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection, was Swedish singer-actor Omar Rudberg of Young Royals—he paired the look expertly with a statement Hermès necklace and a bag with matching hardware. Queer Eye's Antoni Porowski rocked up in a shearling jacket with leather details, young Danish actors Alex Høgh Andersen and Lucas Lynggaard Tønnesen (known for Vikings and 1899 respectively) arrived together, The White Lotus' Leo Woodall was there too, and so was Luka Sabbat. I'm sure I've missed out a number of other celebrities but Hermès was very low-key about it.
The younger famous faces at the front row perhaps seemed like a calculated move. Does a venerable brand like Hermès need the awareness of a younger generation? Arguably, every brand could. Yet, the very spirit of the House is one that's irreverently playful and artistic director Véronique Nichanian has always channeled that into every collection. If anything, the appearance of these young faces could further help communicate the true nature of Hermès, one that's even more apparent in its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection.
The fit: Right off the bat, it felt like as though the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection was inspired by a rather British sensibility with the use of Prince of Wales checks and argyle knits. The styling seemed to have carried over some of the influences of the punk-inspired Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear collection. Yet, the overarching theme of the collection was simply one of versatility and paradox. The merging of traditional menswear with non-traditional fabrications, timeless motifs rendered anew, and a decidedly contemporary take on the familiar.
It was evident from the trousers in the collection. They were cut slimmer than ever while tops remained oversized. Jackets (a number of them reversible) were slightly cropped, but not too much—just enough to be a modern update. The argyle motifs were spliced and reconstructed with other colours and patterns, while waterproof gum canvas were cut into functional layers with its translucent nature affording multiple ways of styling and wear. Layering was a focus with sleeveless elements (a definite buy for this side of the equator) either worn on their own or layered over a multitude of other lighter layers.
The highlight for me though were the calfskin ensembles that were paraded towards the end. I initially thought that they were ponyhair pieces owed to the incredible sheen, but at the collection's re-see the very next day, it was revealed that they were polished calfskin. Fashioned into a number of outerwear, suiting and even a stunning vest, they were beautiful examples of Hermès craftsmanship and that spirit of playfulness.
The details: Nichanian has a knack for styling every facet from the Hermès menswear universe into one cohesive look without ever making it feel too much. Jewellery for Autumn/Winter 2024 were simple and effective. A personal favourite were the pebble-shaped necklaces in palladium and wrapped with a bit of leather for a chic statement that doesn't shout. Silk scarves turned into snoods with a reversible plain leather side, and ties echoed the Prince of Wales check suiting but rendered in fine topstitching.
But of course, the bags were what I'm certain everyone had their eyes on. I adored the Hermès Équipier pouches that were designed to fit comfortably on bicycle bars and fitted with multiple zipped compartments. The Fouree-Tout Étrivère—essentially an oversized holdall—was crafted with a sturdy top panel where its top handle is attached to while the bottom half is made of more supple leather that gave it a beautiful shape when carried using its shoulder strap. And the classic Haut à Courroies was given an appliqué treatment with leathers of different finishes for a more rugged appeal.
Three exceptional looks: Look 11's play on layers that's especially visible thanks to the gum canvas turtleneck; Look 34's simple monochromatic ensemble of a leather jacket with slim-cut trousers; and the closing look that should be worn to an awards show pretty soon.
The takeaway: You don't need to design wide-cut trousers to be relevant and cool; a contemporary aesthetic is more than just about being trendy.
View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
It was almost a given that the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection would once again be artistic director Kim Jones' homage to the storied history and archives of the House. Jones' continued reverence for the House has undoubtedly created some of the most inspiring contemporary pieces of late. And the fact that he's able to do so season after season, displays just how extensive the Dior archive is—there are still so many stories to discover and rediscover. Jones is helping to tell those stories.
For Winter 2024, Jones focused on the relationship between Dior and ballet, specifically Margot Fonteyn and Monsieur Dior, and by extension, the former's dance partner, Rudolf Nureyev. In a surprising happenstance, Jones' uncle—photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones—too had a link to Nureyev, having photographed the legend and developed a friendship with him. The Winter 2024 collection was thus fashioned as a complete wardrobe of a dancer's life, both onstage and off—channelled through Nureyev's life.
And if you think theatricality was left only in the clothes (including a Dior Men haute couture finale debut), you'd be sorely mistaken. Jones has been dabbling with the runway show theatrics of late. Summer 2024's show saw models ascending from the ground; Winter 2024 saw models ascending to the starry sky of the showspace in a stirring finale that in some ways, reminded me of the staging of one of the rooms in La Galarie Dior.
The fit: Tailoring was sharp and languid all the same—once again taking inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent's definitive silhouette for the House. But for Winter 2024, I'd like to focus on how the collection felt like it's made ready for travel. The collection consisted more of separate pieces than specifically designed coordinates, meaning that everything could be easily spliced and remixed together, reflecting the malleability of a dancer's off-duty wardrobe. Just grab a few pieces and one would essentially look pretty put together.
There's an apparent '70s vibe to the entire collection, marked by the simplicity of the shapes and the lack of excessive details (especially in the beginning looks). Fastenings too were designed to be easy—zips were rampant throughout the entire collection on everything from coats to rompers to deep-V cardigans.
The details: Ballet slippers were interpreted as Mary Jane loafers in a multitude of colours. One that stood out the most on the runway for me was one rendered in an electric blue, paired almost casually with a more grounding brown outfit (look 19). There were also more obvious interpretations of ballet slippers as well as slip-ons thrown in the mix.
Cannage bags were crafted from silk-like material, giving off a sheen that looked luxurious even from the elevated seating I was put at. They came in the form of camera as well as bum bags that added a utilitarian juxtaposition to the ready-to-wear's more elegant designs. One particular bag that immediately caught my eye was a backpack (look 47) embroidered with a somewhat blown-up toile de Jouy motif and paired with a top done in the same treatment. Beautiful.
While this collection felt more commercial and simplified than perhaps the Summer 2024 collection, the details were still aplenty, especially in the couture offerings. Embroidered collars and waists took on intricate forms, enveloping the circumference of where they're positioned and encasing the body with armour-like protection.
Three exceptional looks: Look 4's unassuming romper paired with a turban (inspired by a 1999 Stephen Jones creation for Dior womenswear) and mustard socks; the scrumptious oversized brown coat worn with leather trousers for a monochromatic fit in look 21; and the divine jewelled mastery of look 50 that also combined elements of Jones' interpretation of Dior Men that I personally gravitate towards.
The takeaway: A brilliant way of gaining inspiration from ballet without forcefully injecting tutus and skirts and all that stereotypical ilk.
View the full Dior Men Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
For any confirmation of what the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 20 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time
There's no doubt that Loewe is one of the hottest shows on any fashion week calendar. Not only do the stars come out in the droves to witness the fashion conceptualised by creative director Jonathan Anderson, the fanfare goes beyond the celebrity front rows—the fashion is actually inspiring and different.
For any confirmation of what the Loewe Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Loewe Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 20 January 2024 at 7pm Singapore time
Valentino makes a return to the Paris Fashion Week Men's calendar after going back to splitting up its menswear and womenswear shows since the Spring/Summer 2024 season—shown during Milan Fashion Week Men's last year.
For Autumn/Winter 2024, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli is calling it Valentino Le Ciel. Translated to English, "le ciel" means "sky". Which is interesting given the location of the show: the Monnaie de Paris. It is one of the oldest minting and manufacturing minting institutions in the world with many runway shows and events held there over the years. Could Piccioli attempt to connect the relationship between money and the heavens above? Or would we be seeing a collection completely done in the shade of blue (perhaps with some whites for a visual break) as exemplified in the teasers and the physical invite received?
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Valentino Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Sunday, 21 January 2024 at 1am Singapore time
It's the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week Men's and it's set to be quite a day with two big-named fashion houses scheduled to showcase their Autumn/Winter 2024 collections—Kenzo and Dior Men.
Artistic director Kim Jones has already revealed that the starting point of the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection is the relationship between Dior and ballet. Jones has also linked it to his own personal story of having an uncle who was a ballet dancer and connected to Rudolf Nureyez—quite easily one of the most renowned ballet dancers in history.
Knowing how Jones operates in the soft and often romantic side of things, there's little doubt the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection would be rather gender-blurring but in the most unexpected ways. Don't expect to see tutu skirts though; Jones will definitely put his own magical spin on ballet-influenced details.
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 19 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time
