The recently concluded Spring/Summer 2027 show season kicked off with Paul Costelloe presenting his collection at London Fashion Week. Yes, it was technically the womenswear show season, but there were still plenty of menswear with many brands presenting co-ed runway shows.
There were '80s power dressing, sharp tailoring, and relaxed cuts; newer iterations of early-2000s stylistic choices resurged too, showcasing everything from relaxed, slouchy denim, to skintight silhouettes and collar-popping. Collections by brands such as Loewe, Burberry, and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt focused on sophistication while emphasising craft. Demna defined his personal vision for Gucci with exaggerated fits and experimental styling. McQueen returned to London Fashion Week after a 25 year hiatus. And then there were Diesel and Jean Paul Gaultier, both stuck to their brand ethos with runway theatrics and fashion that was fun, and full of self-expression and pleasure.
Like we said, definitely plenty to see. So we just had to break down some of the standout looks from the shows by the brands.
Burberry delved into youth culture with a workman-inspired jacket reimagined with a sophisticated high collar and perfectly cropped above relaxed-fit trousers. The low-cut sneakers are reminiscent of canvas skater shoes.
McQueen executed its signature blend of architectural precision and artistic flare: sharp, wing-like shoulders evoke angel wings, while the sleek, black suit was embellished with metallic, hand-hammered iris detailing, that were then hand-painted with a reflective tarnish.
A brown suit that executed structure and decorum with sharp shoulders and utilitarian details. The collection was themed around the '40s, a period of totalitarian regimes and industrialisation—earthy palettes of brown, green and beige underscore the decade's uniform.
Proportion has always been Demna's forte. The tailoring in this look narrowed from structured shoulders toward the waist, sculpting a streamlined contour of the model's silhouette, while the tri-layer cummerbund belt cinched the matching black ensemble. Gucci's equestrian heritage surfaced with miniature Horsebit accents, as the creative director fused his experimental design language with the House's iconic codes.
Glenn Martens transformed the neckline of the waxed leather jacket to take the shape of the cutaway of orchids (Diesel's signifier of desire and its newest fragrance). The styling was flawless as the oversized jacket elongated the torso while not compromising the length of the legs. Colours did not disappoint too with the contrast of the dull burgundy, black trims of the D-ONE bag and loafers standing out against white bottoms.
A look reminiscent of early 2000s style of soccer players the likes of Cristiano Ronaldo and Mario Balotelli. Instead of the popped collar polo tee, the top's collar laid perfectly flat and fastened with a front zip. The gold metallic belt acted as a funky juxtaposition against the plain regular-fitted jeans and white shirt.
What stood out was the black knit vest with a cross-over detail, contrasting against a grey-white plaid under the blazer. This look is completed with plum, wide pants and taupe slide-sandals, giving the option of a versatile smart-casual outfit.
Symbolising Victor-Hart's Ghanaian roots and its hand-weaving craft, the pants featured embroidered raffia fibre motifs that were also used throughout the inner-lining of the repurposed denim coat.
As per the brand's aesthetics, romantic details made their appearance on the runway, like the ruffle detailing on this Victorian top. A distressed, sun-faded, patina-inspired jacket emulated a vintage mechanic's uniform. A black leather bolo tie inspired by the American Frontier era, completed Stefano Gallici's imagery of the Gothic-Americana Desert.
Balenciaga elevated its tailoring with colour-blocking. The cobalt blue windbreaker and pink top with a popped collar contrasted wide, white cargos. Overall, the pieces masterfully outlined a masculine silhouette.
Loewe was spot on with its colour-combinations and proportions once again. The patterns were not overdone; they remained within the top half where the button-down was patterned with green stripes and paired with a maximalist tie. A leather chocolate brown jacket with loose sleeves was cinched inward and cropped snuggly at the waist, while loafers were a matching shade. Plain grey wide-fit trousers draped along the legs effortlessly, featuring the the brand's name right below the waistline.
Staying true to tailoring and flou, a grey blazer was constructed with a folded lapel and layered over a lose, asymmetrical shirt as well as a graphic t-shirt. The matching white trousers showed raw ends, while the iconic tabis tied up the overall monochromatic theme.
The collection explored the concept of making chic, ordinary. The individual garments screamed mundane on their own, but the pairing of the padded blazer, black hoodie and slacks elevated the overall look.
Like Maison Margiela, Miu Miu Was inspired by athleisure. The navy tracksuit emphasised a sleek, yet relaxed silhouette. The pairing of luxury and athletic comfort has been popular since the '60s and Miu Miu paid tribute—the single-breasted, dark brown blazer being a statement piece for the sporty ensemble.
Accurate to Tom Ford's DNA—sensual, power-dressing and precise tailoring. This sharply constructed black double-breasted suit shaped a black shirt that was left unbuttoned, revealing the chest. A black silk scarf with tassels added to the seductive theatrics.
Look 25 explored the concept of an unexpected styling combination with a casual elegance. The baseball cap with soft pastel accents, tortoise-shell shades, and the intentional mis-buttoned tan blazer (which scrunches which slightly at waistline), diverged from the classic shirt, pleated work trousers and gold toe-cap dress shoes.
