There was a bit of a drama (if you could call it that) with the CELINE Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show. Imagine being finally ready to debut a dedicated menswear runway show, only to have it potentially marred by an unprecedented heatwave in Paris. CELINE and Michael Rider certainly didn't want that to happen; the location was changed only a few days before the show. In the 16th arrondissement (that's pretty much right on the edge of Paris), the CELINE show took refuge within the Tennis Club de Paris. And then on the day of the show, temperatures cooled down a fair bit. The venue change didn't feel necessary then, but the air-conditioned space easily became the coolest show venue the entire show season.
It's understandable that CELINE didn't want an uncomfortable atmosphere affect Rider's first runway show. But given how the artistic director has successfully shifted the vision of the House, I think it's pretty safe to say that it would've still been a successful outing even if I were soaked to the bone with sweat.
The fit: What Rider has been masterful at is crafting an effortless take on luxury across both womenswear and menswear at CELINE. The Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection continues the ethos with artful layering and an equally arresting use of colours and patterns. There's a conscious simplicity to the pieces in the collection with plenty of wardrobe staples (something that Rider has been building on for a couple of seasons now) but then worn in rather offbeat ways. Crewneck jumpers were worn with brightly coloured satin cummerbunds, broken suiting took a more casual slant with sandals (worn with socks) and what appeared to be a shirt tied into a headgear of sorts, as well as tailoring finished with beaded necklaces. On the more monochromatic outfits, materials were a mixture of satins with cottons with leathers, creating a studied balance of textures.
In the constant debate on the fit of trousers this season, Rider offered it all. Skinny bottoms leaned in on 2000s nostalgia but styled anew, while the collection's standout paper bag trousers dominated in volume and airiness. But overall, no matter what the combination was, every look remained incredibly polished, and more importantly, expensive.
The details: There were certainly plenty to look at. But I do want to highlight the unexpected collaboration between CELINE and Reebok. It marked the first sneaker collaboration for the House and one that fits with Rider's vision. The collaboration is based on the Reebok’s Freestyle model and is crafted from lambskin. They come pre-worn and pre-scuffed, with three colourways that made their debut on the runway—white, red, and black. Needless to say, they will most definitely be quickly snapped up, just based on first reactions alone.
Three exceptional looks: Look 27 that is pretty classic Rider for CELINE; the wondrously chic, magpie-esque spirit of look 45; and the sheer simplicity of look 70.
The takeaway: It takes skill to look this expensive and effortless at the same time.
View the full CELINE Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection in the gallery below.
