It felt like Daniel Lee's Burberry once again. After a Summer 2025 showing that felt somewhat commercial in execution, the Burberry Winter 2025 runway show presented proposals that felt like Lee's very first collection for the British brand, but with the commercial viability of the former. Of course, we can't be certain of the collection's desirability until it actually hits physical and online boutiques, but it's evident that the chief creative officer has managed to craft out luxurious-looking outerwear of varying degrees that would warrant a luxury investment price tag—a point of contention that continues to plague the brand.

For Winter 2025, Lee looked to lavish country homes of England as reference points. Stating the general sentiment of Londoners' need to escape the city every now and then, fabrics decorating these homes—from wallpaper to upholstery to carpets—inspired the hues as well as materiality of the collection. This was especially evident in the outerwear that were extensions of Burberry house codes, with slight tweaks that breathed new life to familiar designs.

Yes, there were a number of British celebrities who were part of the cast of models walking the runway—from the always suave Jason Isaacs to the regal Richard E. Grant—but don't let that distract you from the design and craft of the Burberry Winter 2025 collection that were arguably, some of Lee's best thus far.

The fit: The collection is outerwear-heavy, which is expected given that it's Burberry and that it is a winter collection. And to be honest, I did find that the colour palette was a tad drab initially, but thankfully, the rich jewel tones started to fill a good half of the collection. We're already seeing a more considered return to some semblance of opulent luxury in fashion in general, so the first few menswear looks did feel a bit underwhelming. But once look 15 hit the runway, things started looking up.

Lee's greatest skill is his brilliant use of materiality which often takes the form of a textural tension, even in the most monochromatic of looks. The inspiration itself was pure Lee, allowing him to manipulate and interpret Burberry classics with fabrics that both felt very British and relatable at the same time. The colours used were also very smart, lending an aura of sophistication and luxe that had been missing from previous collections.

The details: Shearling trims were de rigeuer—a design element that Lee has carried through season after season—and oddly enough, the Burberry Check was kept to a minimum this time around. Let's face it, the motif isn't necessary when there are other house codes in play and when icons such as the trench coat are signature to the brand. We reckon too that the Burberry Check will appear in the more commercial incarnations of the collection.

What's interesting were the bags. An obvious new offering was the long top-handle leather bag that looked incredibly supple (a key, slouchy leather trend that's been pervading almost every luxury fashion house) and rendered in a range of treatments. It looked to be a very roomy size with an elongated shape—kind of like a smaller and more portable weekender.

Three exceptional looks: Look 15's textural wonder with a statement burgundy leather parka; the wonderful shade of green in look 39; and look 50's Burberry Knight intarsia knit.

The takeaway: Don't count Lee out yet.

View the full Burberry Winter 2025 collection in the gallery below.