Cutthroat doesn't even begin to describe the relative speed in which Gucci has decided to end its partnership with Sabato De Sarno. The now-former creative director of the Italian house was first announced as the successor to Alessandro Michele in late January 2023, and presented his first collection—the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection—in September 2023.
Slightly more than two years later, De Sarno is no longer at Gucci.
The cards were stacked against him from the very beginning. After several years of stagnant sales under Michele's creative direction due to a shift in consumers' tastes and preferences (and not to mention, a fatigue from the maximalist aesthetic that was an initial, phenomenal success), De Sarno was hired to focus on the House's more timeless qualities. His debut was a stark difference from his predecessor's aesthetic, showcasing restraint with clean silhouettes and reimagining of archival pieces. And while it was definitely a palette cleanser, the new creative direction wasn't as buzzy as Gucci hoped it would be—the sales numbers reflected that too. It didn't help too that De Sarno took over at a time where luxury fashion was experiencing a slowdown in demand.
De Sarno's creative vision for Gucci was by no means a clear miss. His menswear collections proved to be his strongest suit, updating silhouettes with generous cuts and flair for a modern Gucci man. The fabrications, although looked simple at a glance, felt luxurious to the touch. But alas, for a luxury house that doesn't have a reputation of dealing in the "quiet luxury" space, the collections didn't translate for consumers more familiar with the heavily branded motifs signature to Gucci.
Rumours have been abound for months now on who will take over creative reins. Gucci has yet to officially announce a successor; owner Kering simply states, "The new Artistic Direction will be announced in due time."
What's certain is that Gucci will go on to showcase both its men's and women's Autumn/Winter 2025 collections during Milan Fashion Week on 25 February. However, they will be presented by its design office.
