Esquire Examines: Louis Vuitton SS25

From individual countries and cities, Pharrell Williams took the opportunity for the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection to encompass LVERS on a global scale
Published: 26 June 2024

Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a statement, a rallying cry wrapped in Damier checks and cosmic prints. Set against the symbolic backdrop of the UNESCO headquarters in Paris, the collection is titled “Le Monde est à Vous” (The World is Yours) and was a high-concept blend of sartorial exploration and cultural commentary. If Williams' previous shows for the Maison tapped into specific countries and cities as points of references, this time, it was a call for global unity and shared responsibility.

Before the models hit the runway, the audience was treated to a short film created in collaboration with Air Afrique, a Pan-African cultural collective. The film featured young “child diplomats” tackling global issues. It was equal parts moving and ambitious, underscoring Louis Vuitton’s evolution into a cultural powerhouse rather than just a luxury label.

At the venue itself, the lower levels of the UNESCO headquarters were transformed into orchestral pits housing both the Voices of Fire choir and L’Orchestre du Pont Neuf. They provided the live soundtrack to the show with upbeat vocal stylings and instrumentation to three original compositions produced by none other than the creative director himself.

The fit: The Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was effectively a love letter to humanity. It kicked off with a muted palette—blacks, browns, and beiges—that hinted at the grounding of shared human experience, before blooming into greens and blues, straight out of a satellite image of Earth. These tones weren’t just aesthetic choices; they underscored the idea of diversity and universal inclusion. Think tailored double-breasted suits, relaxed pajama-inspired sets, and collarless leather jackets paired with Louis Vuitton’s trademark boldness. Pieces like a glossy red PVC anorak and slouchy cargo shorts delivered runway drama without alienating the everyday dresser.

And then there was the printwork. Pharrell introduced a fresh take on the Damier motif with “Damoflage”—a hybrid of camouflage and cartographic designs. Globe-inspired prints appeared on bombers and foulards, turning fashion into a celebration of connectedness.

The details: Soccer ball-shaped bags and tartan luggage nodded to the universal language of travel and sport, while cheeky details like “YOUR NAME” printed on customisable bags added a playful edge. The Air Afrique collaboration continued on in a number of ready-to-wear pieces, scarves, stoles and bags as Damier-infused tartan as well as a co-creation of travel-inspired logos. And much like Williams' interpretation of the iconic Keepall, the collection introduced a Soft Leather Goods line—the Alma, the Christopher and the Neverfull were crafted in super supple leather with aged VVN trimmings and decorated with brown Monogram.

Three exceptional looks: Look 8's chic proposal of a translucent mock-neck paired with jewelled trims; look 39's classic Louis Vuitton aesthetic twisted with softer nuances; and look 72's football-inspired ensemble that has never made football more appealing to any non-fan.

The takeaway: A collection for the jet-set, the dreamers, and everyone in between.

View the full Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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