Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025: Parmigiani Fleurier Defines Quiet Complexity With New Novelties

From skeletonised sculptures to secret minute repeaters, Parmigiani Fleurier's 2025 novelties speak in soft tones but leave a lasting echo
Published: 13 April 2025
Parmigiani Fleurier Armoriale Minute Repeater

Parmigiani Fleurier is one of those watchmakers that has an unmistakable confidence. Not the sort that relies on buzzwords but the quiet kind—and it's always the quiet ones you keep an eye out for—that comes from deep expertise and an even deeper understanding of its own design language. Parmigiani Fleurier doesn’t have to shout for your attention; you readily proffer it like we did with their six new novelties for this year's Watches and Wonders.

The Toric Quantième Perpétuel, introduced as part of the Toric collection’s revival, tackles the perpetual calendar. Traditionally, these watches are packed with subdials and indicators but Parmigiani Fleurier takes a more meditative approach with a coaxial display that separates the day and date at 8 o'clock and the month and leap years at 4 o'clock. Three correctors are discreetly located on the case side to adjust the calendar functions. With all the relevant information present, it still allows for the central dial to be unburdened.

Two versions—platinum and rose gold—are available for the Toric Quantième Perpétuel, both limited to 50 pieces. They feature manufacture movements crafted in 18-carat rose gold; the casebacks reveal broad 18-carat rose gold surfaces that serve as bridges and fitted in a pure geometric perspective. It recalls architectural minimalism more than baroque watchmaking.

With the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, the House reframes complications for a generation that values discretion as much as function. Press the pusher (located at 7 o'clock of the case) and a second hour hand in rose gold jumps forward to reveal travel time. Press another, and it snaps back beneath the main hand. Now in a Verzasca Green dial, its hue is pulled from the glacial waters of Switzerland’s Val Verzasca. Paired with the brand’s signature “Grain d’Orge” guilloché pattern and a 40mm steel case framed by a platinum bezel, the timepiece is both poetic and practical.

Tonda PF Chronograph No Date

Taking the idea of a sports watch but adding a philosophical bent, you get the Tonda PF Chronograph No Date. Its 40mm case offers ergonomic comfort; its layout—sans date display—feels deliberately clean. With a Mineral Blue dial with a guilloché finish, you're reminded of a shifting sky. Inward, a high-frequency, COSC-certified movement beating at 36,000 vph, with a 65-hour power reserve.

Another sports watch is the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet. This piece adds a sharper edge thanks to it being entirely crafted—from the case to the bezel to even the pin buckle—in Cermet, which is a hybrid of ceramic and metal.

This material is the result of three years in R&D. It has a 1,450 Vickers of scratch resistance and reflects light in a way that it gives the watch a metallic sheen without the weight. Treated with Blackor (a 9-carat gold-nickel deposit), the dial adds to the elegance of the timepiece. Available in two shades—Milano Blue and London Grey—the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet is Parmigiani Fleurier most overtly modern release to date.

Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green

One of two of the more visually arresting of the novelties is the Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green. Limited to 50 pieces, at its core, beats the PF777 calibre. Exposed underneath its skeletonised dial, each of its 187 components are bevelled, satin-finished. All move in a choreography of light play and visual flow.

But wait. Won't the busy-ness of the movement distract from the legibility of the indices? Openworked hands and suspended indexes provide clear orientation. Inspired by Le Corbusier's palette, the Slate Green hue adds depth and a sculptural energy to the dial.

We've talked about the Armoriale Minute Repeater, this time the model returns in two colourways—Dawn Rose and Midnight Fjord. Crafted in white gold, with a case inspired by classical proportions and the Golden Ratio, the watches feature Grand Feu enamel dials over intricate guilloché. It behooves us to mention the artisans behind the artistry—Vanessa Lecci, Eddy Jaquet, and Yann von Kaenel—each of them worked on the enamelling, engraving, guilloché.

Housing the manual calibre PF355, the movement carries a 72-hour power reserve and a minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs. You get the time through an auditory experience filled with rich, deep resonance—the hammers strike with precision, while the hollowed out case amplifies the sound naturally. If conventional telling of time still hearkens to you, visual time is hidden on the reverse.

IT'S A SECRET DIAL.

Close up of the reverse dial of Armoriale Minute Repeater

This is a white Guatemalan jade diss that showcase rose gold hands that move serenely across a minimalist and contemplative display.

For more information, please visit the Parmigiani Fleurier website

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