For his first menswear collection for Gucci, creative director Sabato De Sarno focused on strengthening house codes seen through a more modern lens. The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection saw accessories making their own statements—distinct in form yet not brashly shouting to be heard. Dressed in the House's now signature Rosso Ancora shade, staples like the Double G belt and the Horsebit loafers-turned-creepers reflect a renewed Gucci aesthetic.
Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Photography Assistant: Chay Wei Kang
In an age where stainless steel watches are mass-produced by stainless steel machines, independent watchhouse Lang & Heyne is a refreshing anomaly. Their secret? Crafting every watch by hand. German watchmaker Jens Schneider, under the leadership of CEO Alexander Gutierrez, is steadfast in their commitment to traditional craftsmanship and vintage design.
But what does it take to marry the old with the new; to balance heritage with innovation? We sit with Gutierrez and Schneider to delve into the heart of Lang & Heyne, the challenges of carving out an identity in a crowded market and the sheer artistry behind each timepiece.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Who is Lange & Heyne for?
ALEXANDER GUTIERREZ: You are in our target group if you are someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, whether it's handmade cars like Morgan or Pagani, or gourmet food and fine dining. Our customers are connoisseurs who are settled, not show-offs. They cherish what they own for themselves. If you enjoy admiring the movement of a watch and winding it yourself, you could be one of our targets.
ESQ: What have been some of the most significant challenges you’ve faced as CEO, and how have you overcome them?
ALEXANDER: The biggest challenge has been defining the DNA of Lang & Heyne, a relatively young brand at just 21 years old. Unlike established brands, we don't have a long history or celebrity endorsements to lean on. Instead, our focus is on the product itself, emphasising high-end craftsmanship and in-house production. Our Saxonian heritage plays a crucial role, and we honour it by naming our watches after Saxonian kings, rather than using reference numbers. Balancing traditional watchmaking with contemporary approaches, like using both handcrafting and modern machinery, has been key. Bringing all that together, and in the end, having a successful company, is the main challenge, I would say.
ESQ: Given the prevalence of contemporary watch designs, why has Lang & Heyne continued its commitment to vintage design elements?
ALEXANDER: We want to maintain our Saxonian roots and heritage, which is why we continue with vintage design elements. Our approach is more about elegance and tradition rather than flashy, complicated features. We focus on craftsmanship, especially the artistic work done by hand, which is central to our brand's identity. This combination of vintage design with a contemporary approach is what sets us apart. For example, the Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition showcases this blend by incorporating modern materials like ceramic while retaining a classic aesthetic.
ESQ: What are the current trends in the luxury watch market, and how is Lang & Heyne positioning itself to stay ahead?
ALEXANDER: The current trend in the luxury watch market is a shift towards independent watchmakers and unique, niche products. Don’t get me wrong, I don't want to say big brands are not important anymore, but collectors and enthusiasts are increasingly seeking something different and special. At Lange & Heyne, we focus on artisan craftsmanship and customisation, allowing customers to personalise details like hands, dial colours, and materials. This personalised approach sets us apart from larger brands that often can't offer such bespoke options. By catering to these niche demands, Lange & Heyne is becoming a significant player in the independent sector.
ESQ: Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a new watch?
JENS SCHNEIDER: A Lang & Heyne watch should be one you can use every day. We don't want to make watches that just sit in a cupboard. It should be easy to read the time and simple to wind. That's the starting point for me. Then I think about the watch's character. The next step is to gather information from my mind—things I've seen in historical watches and technical solutions—and combine them with my own ideas. You can't invent a completely new watch; it's about creating new combinations of known elements from the past with new technology or materials.
Next, I create a simple sketch of the gear train. It's just circles, but the dimensions of the circles determine the correct position of the hands on the dial. The final step is to design the watch in 3D on the computer. This isn't easy because you have to consider how all the parts fit together. If you change one part, you have to think about how it affects the others. This is the process we follow.
ESQ: How do you balance aesthetics with functionality when designing a new watch?
JENS: A watch that looks good but has no function isn't truly aesthetic. The function is what matters. For example, a very small balance wheel in the corner isn't appealing because it doesn't function well. It's all about the combination: the function should lead, and the aesthetics should serve the function
ESQ: How do you integrate modern technology with traditional watchmaking techniques?
JENS: You need to be knowledgeable about materials. For instance, using a diamond tool requires a combination of skilled craftsmanship and modern materials. We also use modern machinery. Today, I design using Computer Numerical Control (CNC) programs and machines to create the raw parts. For example, the hands of the Louis watch have a traditional shape, which we achieve through hand engraving after the raw material is cut with a laser.
ESQ: How do you two collaborate on a project from concept to completion?
JENS: We usually start with a brainstorming session, whether it's an idea from a customer, a special request, or an internal concept. We discuss the feasibility of the idea, considering both creative and practical aspects because a watchmaker has many ideas, but you cannot realise every idea. We have to consider the economic or capacity constraints, so we prioritise based on importance and resource availability.
ALEXANDER: We often work on custom projects, whether for a large order from a group like SHH or a single piece for an individual customer. The process involves detailed discussions about design, complications, and production logistics. For instance, when Sincere Haute Horlogerie requests a specific number of watches, we assess our ability to meet that volume and the specific requirements. Throughout the project, there's constant communication to refine the design and ensure it aligns with both our capabilities and the customer's expectations. For example, the success of previous models like the first and second Georg gave us confidence in the design's appeal and guided the project from concept to completion.
Hublot teams up with renowned tattooist Maxime Plescia-Büchi fora collaboration series. With Plescia-Büchi’s assertive relief placed ontoHublot’s flagship Big Bang model, it becomes a welcomed alchemy. A magic circle trapped onto the dial if you will; attention is drawn towards these three-dimensional leylines etched onto the geometry of the watch.
Last year, Plescia-Büchi moved to the Spirit of Big Bang—where the Big Bang 42mm model is infused with a “barrel”-shaped case. In a reveal, the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu is a skeletonised automatic chronograph(HUB4700) with the date at 4:30, a 50-hour power reserve and are designed oscillating weight. Limited and fashioned in three materials—titanium, ceramic, gold—the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu took centrestage at the Salone del Mobile inMilan.
Once more into the breach, another Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu was released, this time in sapphire. The material’s transparency enhances the sharpness of Plescia-Büchi’s designs; with the only non-transparent elements being the crown, the pushbuttons, the screws on the case, the6 H-shaped screws on the bezel and the folding clasp. While it is as tough as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale),the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu in Sapphire is, unfortunately, impervious to being sold widely as it’s limited to only 100 pieces worldwide
In a world where smartwatches threaten to render traditional timepieces obsolete, Breitling is reminding us why the mechanical machines strapped to our wrists will never go out of style. The Swiss watchmaker, known for equipping the wrists of pilots, divers, and the occasional Bond villain, is celebrating its 140th anniversary with a globe-trotting exhibition that doubles as a history lesson. Dubbed "Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition," this travelling showcase is less about selling watches and more about flexing 140 years of innovation. It's a greatest hits album but instead of chart-toppers, you're getting important timepieces that changed the game.
Take the 1915 mono-pusher for instance, the first watch that separated the chronograph functions from the crown, a move so revolutionary it's akin to inventing the steering wheel for cars. Or how about the 1942 Chronomat. The world's first smartwatch, long before Apple thought different. It came with a circular slide rule that basically turned your wrist into a mini-computer. Ahead of its time, I know.
These are watches that have literally been to space (hello, Cosmonaute) and saved lives (we're looking at you, Emergency), so it’s worth checking out. The exhibition is making 55 stops across four continents, and is currently in Singapore from now until 4th August at the Breitling boutique raffles city.
Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is located at #01-35 Raffles City Shopping Centre 252 North Bridge Road, Singapore
Samsung's biannual unveiling of its devices yesterday in Paris. It was, after all, a marketing strategy, a slew of Samsung devices announced at the locale of this year's Olympics. With pomp and circumstance, there comes the expectation of something new from the South Korean tech giant. These are what were announced at this year's Unpacked event.
The AI game heats up even further as Samsung reiterates its commitment to the integration of its Galaxy AI into their product ecosystem. Samsung was the first major phone brand to announce its use of Galaxy AI and while that thunder was stole with Apple announcing their own proprietary Apple Intelligence, Samsung reminds us that it already has a working Galaxy AI and that more of its products will have them.
One of the more impressive Galaxy AI addition is the Sketch to image feature. Your rudimentary doodle can be generated into different fully-fleshed image styles. Apple mentioned similar actions with its Image Wand but at this point, it's all about the speed to showcase AI, so this round goes to Samsung.
Samsung's signature phones return: the Galaxy Z Fold6 and the Galaxy Z Flip6. Touted to be "the slimmest and lightest Z series", the series are also blessed with enhanced Armor Aluminum2 and Corning Gorilla Glass Victus 2 for more durability. Both the Fold6 and Flip6 have Snapdragon 8 Gen In addition to being reliable, every element of the Z series is also powerful. Both the Z Fold6 and Z Flip6 are equipped with the Snapdragon Gen 3 Mobile Platform, the most advanced Snapdragon mobile processor yet.
The Galaxy Z Fold6 has a sleeker design and a Dynamic AMOLED 2X screen, which gives it unparalleled brightness. There's an upgraded gaming experience that's within the Fold6 by its chipset and a 1.6x larger vapour chamber. Meanwhile, the Galaxy Z Flip6 has a new 50MP wide camera, a 12MP Ultra-wide sensors and larger battery life.
Let's address the elephant dominating the room: yes, obvious comparisons would be made with the Apple Watch Ultra. From the orange band to the orange "action button" to the shape of the dial, I guess, imitation is a form of flattery? But other than the looks, the Galaxy Watch Ultra seem to hold its own with its pricing and health measurement specs.
Other than the smartwatch, this smart ring is meant to be worn throughout. It's less intrusive than the smartwatch, which makes for easier health tracking. Imbued with three sensors—accelerometer, photoplethysmography and skin temperature reading—the Galaxy Ring can monitor and collate various health metrics. It comes in several sizes.
Welp, those were our key takeaways from this year's Unpacked. As we go through the devices, we'll let you know in-depth what to further expect with each of these devices.
The Porsche 963 is a winner. Racking up podium finishes in over two-thirds of its races, the vehicle is, quite simply, built to succeed. Hailed as “the pinnacle of Porsche’s engineering expertise,” the race car notably celebrated its first major endurance race with a win at the 24 Hours of Daytona this year. Having dominated the racing world, the Porsche's appetite for winning has bled into the realm of horology by partnering with TAG Heuer to transform the Porsche 963 into a limited-edition chronograph.
Fittingly limited to just 963 pieces worldwide, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 features sub-dials with four Super-LumiNova blocks—a ceramic-based compound that captures and stores light to produce luminescence in the dark—echoing the iconic night-time visibility of the Porsche 911. This feature captures the thrill of 24-hour endurance races where drivers battle from dusk till dawn, and uncompromised legibility is vital.
Taking a page from the Porsche’s playbook, the 44mm watch features a bold skeletonised dial with tubular structural elements evocative of the race car's high-performance chassis. Forged from lightweight yet robust carbon, the bezel mirrors the engineering ethos behind the Porsche 963’s construction. Lift the hood and you’ll find a TH20-00 Calibre, a vertical clutch chronograph movement similar to the systems found in cars connecting the engine’s flywheel with the transmission. This ensures a smooth, "jump-free" chronograph operation. Y'know, like a Porsche.
While its technical specs are impressive, true beauty lies in the details. The red index at 4 o’clock isn’t just a splash of colour; it's a symbol of the surge of adrenaline as a race counts down. The watch’s rubber strap takes inspiration from NACA-style low-drag air inlets found in legendary Porsche race cars like the record-breaking Porsche 917. Even the oscillating mass—a hidden treat for watch enthusiasts—features the iconic Porsche steering wheel motif, further blurring the lines between wristwatch and race car.
It began with a challenge from the TUDOR Pro Cycling team: design a watch capable of enduring the demands of professional cycling whilst remaining a realistic option for the road. What came after is the birth of the Pelagos FXD Chrono "Cycling Edition".
“If you know what you want to be, then you inevitably become it.”
– Oscar Wilde.
The latest addition to the Pelagos FXD catalogue mirrors the very DNA of the world’s fastest bikes. Featuring a 43mm matte-finished case crafted from carbon composite, it's akin to the carbon fibre found in high-speed bicycles. The integration of titanium elements promises greater robustness to the timepiece, preparing it for even the most extreme circumstances.
The “Cycling Edition” of the Pelagos FXD Chrono graduates from its nautical predecessor by introducing a cyclist-focused tachymeter scale tuned specifically for speeds relevant to cycling, rather than that of cars. A fixed 60-minute bezel wraps around the scale to thoughtfully direct focus to the home of the watch. There, a black dial sits with striking red accents to ensure legibility at first glance.
Peer beneath the surface of crystals and carbon and you’ll find the Manufacture Calibre MT5813. This is the same pulsating movement that gave life to the first FXD Chronograph. Featuring an automatic 4Hz movement, it offers a suite of complications including a 45-minute counter, date, and stop-seconds for precise time-setting. Its power reserve of 70 hours coupled with 100m of water resistance makes it a reliable partner suitable for any occasion.
What do you do when you're an artist fascinated with the past, present and future? You poetically merge all three to fuel your art. New York-based artist Daniel Arsham is celebrated for crafting modern-looking artifacts or figures that appear eroded, mimicking the effect of casts being burried for centuries. Future relics, if you will. Given his penchant for time, it makes sense that his next project will involve a watch brand like Hublot. The matrimony between his artistic perspective and Hublot's technical expertise yields something that feels modern and otherworldly, the Arsham Droplet.
The Arsham Droplet reimagines the classic pocket watch by building on antique forms using the latest production methods and materials. These updates challenge watchmaking norms, fashioning a timepiece that looks straight out of Ex Machina. Drawing inspiration from nature's water elements, the Arsham Droplet employs titanium, rubber, and sapphire crystal to create a tactile experience that feels like whatever the antithesis of grasping water is.
True to the concept of fluidity, the Arsham Droplet can be shown off in more ways than one. As a necklace to a pocket watch, or displayed as a statement piece on its titanium and mineral glass table stand, Hublot’s patented double "one-click" system ensures seamless attachment.
A timepiece without a heart is merely a shell and the Arsham Droplet comes alive with Hublot's Meca-10 manufacture movement. It flaunts an impressive 10-day power reserve shielded by two domed teardrop-shaped sapphire crystals measuring 73.2mm in length and 52.6 mm in width. Fortified with a titanium case and a custom Arsham green rubber bumper, it's double encased with 17 O-ring seals to ensure nothing contaminates the quiet and intimate environment of the calibre. Featuring Hublot's signature H-shaped screws, the pocket watch bears a stamp of the artist's monogram on its crystal surface. Adding to the Arsham Droplet's theme, it has a water resistance of 30m, impressive for a pocket watch this intricate.
Given the complicated construction of the Arsham Droplet, it's no surprise it's limited to just 99 pieces world-wide.
Barry Keoghan has been made a ‘friend’ of Omega—with a pair of new Speedmaster Moonwatch watches announced to officially welcome him to the brand.
Keoghan has been bossing red carpet coverage for the past 18 months, with a succession of internet-grabbing outfits including a black Stella McCartney suit worn with a frilly white dress shirt, a red Louis Vuitton evening jacket plus matching checkered trousers and an arm-bearing green Givenchy vest.
But he’s been no slouch in the accessories department, either.
There have been jangly keychains. There have been pearl necklaces. There have been Oliver Twist-style top hats.
Watch spotters have also enjoyed his wrist-wear. Keoghan has frequently been kitted out in—and presumably by—Omega.
He wore a handsome burgundy Speedmaster ’57 to last year's BAFTAs.
And a 1930s Art Deco Lépine ‘Sideros’ pocket watch to last month’s Met Gala, to name two.
Today Omega makes the love-in official, with Keoghan announced as the new face of the brand—with two new Speedmaster variants launched to coincide with the happy news.
The first of the new Speedys is a bi-colour version that combines stainless steel and the brand’s own 18ct yellow gold alloy known as Moonshine Gold. It features a sun-brushed silvery dial framed by a black ceramic bezel, with a tachymeter scale in Ceragold, another proprietary Omega material. The contrasting subdials also come in 18ct Moonshine Gold.
The other Speedmaster is being released in yet another Omega material—18ct Sedna Gold. Both models are available now.
Originally published on Esquire UK
Every watch wearer knows that the tourbillon is considered as one of the heights of watchmaking. Like many things, timepieces aren’t spared from gravity’s cruel anchors. But watchmakers, in the bid for accurate timekeeping, push back.
Thus, the tourbillon. This marvel has an escapement and balance wheel that are fixed on a rotating cage. This provides a uniform weight against gravity’s pull. ZENITH gives the humble tourbillon a modern spin that's exemplified in the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon.
Nestled in a 41mm case, faceted and bold, and with a matching bracelet (stainless steel or black ceramic), the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon houses the new El Primero 3630 automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre. It has a generous power reserve of 60 hours and operates at a high-frequency rate of 5Hz (36’000VpH) to resist shocks. The Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges are arranged in a sunray pattern that seem to dart out of the tourbillon.
Dial-side, at six o’clock, the movement is visible through an aperture of this intricately-designed dial. (The sapphire-equipped case back lets you see the rotor as well.) The tourbillon cage is in the shape of an open four-pointed star—the same futuristic lines found in other DEFY pieces with tourbillon mechanisms. Turning around its own axis, the tourbillon completes one revolution every 60 seconds. And radiating from its mesmerising dance is the engraved starry sky pattern on the dial. Luminescent-applied markers and hands further contrast the dial—rhodium-plated indices for the blue dial and rose gold-plated indices for the black dial.
And like the other DEFY Skyline models, the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon comes with a second rubber strap (in blue or black) coupled with a folding clasp. If you're like me and are in a fickle mood, the straps are easily exchanged, thanks to the quick strap-change fixture on the caseback.
Last year, former Bond (the spy, not the female string quartet) and Omega aficionado Daniel Craig set the rumour mill working overtime after he was spotted wearing a mysterious Omega timepiece at the Planet Omega event. It was the iconic chronograph, Speedmaster. But it was with a white dial, nothing that had been seen before. Well, until (cue first five notes of “Also Sprach Zarathustra”)... now.
Displays of the Speedmaster needed to be easily readable: white markers on a black dial. There were several Speedmaster models but those were in limited runs. A piece that came close to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in Canopus Gold aka white gold. But “white gold” isn’t the same as “white-white”.
Thus, the white dial Speedmaster Professional aka Moonwatch. Now, as part of Omega’s main collection, not only is the dial white, it is lacquered as well, a finish that’s never before been used on a Moonwatch’s step dial. This new steel case, white dial piece has black detailing and applied indices. Coupled with a vintage-inspired five-link bracelet; the anodised aluminium bezel sporting the “Dot over Ninety” on the tachymeter scale; and powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, makes this model a more attractive get.
It’s easy to assume that the selected colours served as inspiration for an astronaut spacesuit. But there’s another deeper significance to it. Let’s turn the clock back to the 1969 ALASKA I prototype. Omega was working on creating a timepiece that was optimally suited for space travel. To reflect the sun’s heat, the white dial chosen for the ALASKA I. The removable protective red case? That is now an homage to the red “Speedmaster” name on the Moonwatch white dial.
It’s said that “space is the final frontier” but that’s not the case with Omega as it pushes against its limitations to find what else can keep it ticking.
Multi-Grammy-winning musician John Mayer’s relationship with watches goes far deeper than your average celeb horologist. He’s been a collector of watches since 2001 (very early in his musical career). And his passion for and critically deep understanding of high-end watches has paralleled his musical success ever since. It's also made him something of an oracle for collectors. For much of his collecting life, Audemars Piguet has been a firm favourite.
In Milan last week, Audemars Piguet unveiled with Mayer a collaboration two years in the making. It was the white gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer, limited to 200 pieces. The insider gossip about this impending Mayer launch ahead of the event did nothing to stem the excitement when the new watch was unveiled. Instantly eye-catching, it was given a decidedly modern vibe with a dial described as "crystal sky" for its granular blue surface. The dial was created by electro-forming the 3D surface one atom at a time, then individually polishing each of the hundreds of facets before applying a deep blue PVD coating. The result is a mesmerising light show. Whichever way you look at it, over which the all-important sub-dials float with ease. For a watch as complicated as a perpetual calendar—regarded as the pinnacle of high watchmaking—it's surprisingly legible.
According to company lore, this special edition was born when Mayer approached then CEO François-Henry Bennahmias with an idea. An idea for a one-off watch for himself. Bennahmias liked it so much that he countered with the idea of making it a limited edition instead. Given that the movement that drives this grand complication is retiring, it’s a fitting and collectable send-off. The movement in question is the 5134. It's a self-winding, ultra-thin movement launched in 2016 but based on a legendary movement—the 2120—created in the mid-1960s.
Alongside the release of the watch came the announcement of Mayer taking on the Creative Conduit role for the brand. Somewhere between a brand ambassador and a collector, Mayer functions as a bridge between the house and its most passionate collectors.
AP also timed the Milan launch of the Perpetual Calendar John Mayer to unveil the city's upgraded and relocated AP House, a luxury space for fans and customers of Audemars Piguet to meet away from the store. Naturally enough, the latest—the 20th to open around the world, and just a stone's throw from the storied via Montenaploeone and its fashion and watch flagships—is the best yet. Spread over multiple floors in a repurposed multistory garage the Garage Traversi was built in 1938, the space features dining rooms, lounges, and meeting spaces. There’s a bar or two and a grand piano. Roof terraces wrap around the sinuous deco-style building, overlooking the rooftops of the San Babila district. One hidden dining room was designed with wall-mounted display cabinets for collectors to show off their collections over dinner. No doubt the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer will make a showing at such gatherings.
As true horology nerds know, provided you keep it wound, this watch will tell the correct time. Specifically, the month, week, date, day, leap year, and even the current phase of the moon, all without adjustment. That is until March 1, 2100, when the Gregorian calendar is obliged to skip a leap year. It’s a Monday, by the way.
