Felipe Pantone, who cut his teeth spray-painting walls as a pre-teen graffiti artist has become a global sensation for his bold, kinetic creations. His signature style, characterised by vibrant colour gradients, geometric shapes, and optical illusions that seem to vibrate and move with the viewer’s perspective has now found its way onto a new canvas: the ZENITH DEFY Skyline Tourbillon.
Limited to a mere 100 pieces, the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone retains pretty much everything you loved from the original model, but with a few twists. It features a 41mm octagonal stainless steel case and showcases a tourbillon mechanism with a lightning bolt bridge—a recurring motif in Pantone's art—executed in a stunning gradient of metallic rainbow tones. The watch dial, crafted from sapphire, displays a micro-engraved pattern that creates a moiré visual effect, adding to its hallucinogenic nature. Then again, time itself is a dizzying concept, so this piece makes a fitting tribute.
In this interview with Pantone, we delve into the mind of one of contemporary art’s most daring innovators and discover how he transforms a timepiece into a kinetic masterpiece.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: What were the biggest challenges and rewards of this collaborative process?
FELIPE PANTONE: One of the biggest challenges was finding the perfect balance between honouring the technical mastery of Zenith and infusing it with my artistic vision. Watchmaking is a field steeped in tradition, and pushing boundaries within that framework required a lot of careful consideration. However, the reward was immense—seeing a concept that originated in my mind take shape in such a finely crafted, functional object. It’s not just art you can see, but art you can wear and experience in a very personal way.
ESQ: What do you hope the watch will evoke in people who wear it?
FP: I hope it serves as a reminder of the dynamic, ever-changing world we live in. The watch is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of energy, transformation, and the blending of past and future. I want people to feel a sense of movement, not just in the mechanics of the watch, but in their own lives as they navigate through time.
ESQ: How did you balance personal expression with the commercial expectations of the watch industry?
FP: Balancing personal expression with commercial expectations is always a tightrope walk. But I see it as a challenge that can lead to innovation. For this project, I focused on how my style could complement the craftsmanship of Zenith, rather than overshadow it. The key was to stay true to my aesthetic while also respecting the heritage and precision that Zenith is known for. It’s about creating a dialogue between art and industry, where both can thrive.
ESQ: Can you describe a eureka moment you had during the design process?
FP: The eureka moment for me was when I realised how to integrate the lightning bolt motif into the tourbillon bridge. It’s a recurring element in my work that symbolizes energy and speed, and it fit perfectly into the watch’s design language. This wasn’t just a visual enhancement—it was a conceptual bridge between my art and the intricate mechanics of watchmaking. That moment was like seeing two worlds come together seamlessly.
ESQ: Are there any other mediums you'd like to explore in the future?
FP: Absolutely, I’m always looking to push the boundaries of where my art can go. Architecture and interior design are already in my sights with Casa Axis, but I’m also fascinated by virtual and augmented reality. These are mediums that allow for an entirely new kind of interaction with art—one that can be immersive and multi-sensory. It’s the next frontier for blending the digital with the physical in a way that challenges perceptions.
ESQ: How do you overcome creative blocks?
FP: I find that stepping away from the work and immersing myself in other forms of creativity often helps. Whether it’s listening to music, traveling, or even just spending time in nature, these experiences tend to unlock something in my mind. Sometimes the solution isn’t to push through the block but to change your perspective until the path forward becomes clear again.
ESQ: What book, film, or piece of music has had a profound impact on you recently?
FP: Roxy Music’s "In Every Dream Home a Heartache" has been on my mind a lot lately. The song starts off as a reflection on materialism and the hollow pursuit of perfection, but then it takes an unexpected, almost eerie twist. That shift from something seemingly mundane to something profoundly unsettling is fascinating to me. It’s a reminder that what we see on the surface is often just a façade, and that the deeper layers are where the real story lies. That kind of unexpected transformation is something I strive to capture in my own work.
The DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone is limited to 100 pieces that will be available from ZENITH online and physical boutiques, as well as with select retailers, worldwide from 12 September at 14:00 CEST
When, last year, customs officers at Los Angeles Airport spotted a number of small packages marked "bracelet’, "decoration" and "wall clock", their suspicions were aroused. And, rightly so. Opening them, they found USD1.3m worth of watches: Panerais, Patek Philippes, Omegas and lots of Rolexes. Or, at least, that’s what they would have cost had they been real. In fact, all 41 of the watches were fakes.
They also represent just a tiny fraction of the global trade in counterfeit watches, sales of which boomed over the pandemic, as the bored or comfortably-off looked online to fulfil their horological cravings. Figures are hard to rely on but upwards of an estimated 40 million fakes are circulated every year, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, some 25 per cent more than the Swiss watch industry produces itself.
Those fakes make for a business worth USD3 billion dollars a year—with a record year of 2013 seeing 90,000 fakes confiscated in Dubai alone, the city the Federation identifies as one of the key strategic storage hubs through which fakes are then exported internationally in those many small packages. Watches now account for between 20 and 35 per cent of all sales of counterfeit consumer goods—that’s despite them being illegal in most countries.
Not that this seems to dissuade anyone buying a fake. Or those who manufacture them—mostly in China, Hong Kong, Singapore and, chasing cheaper labour, increasingly Vietnam and Thailand—often on sophisticated factory lines also making legitimate parts for the legitimate watch industry. They’ll take an order for so many “Rolex-style” cases, for example, as they would for any other watch component. Bit by bit these various components come together at various locations and, at some nebulous point involving the application of brand names, a look-a-like becomes a counterfeit and a criminal matter.
“The battle against the counterfeit watch market is very hard to win. It’s really about reducing their visibility as much as possible, about intervening on a diplomatic and political level,” says Yves Bugmann, president of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. “Counterfeiters want to benefit from the value that often world-famous watch brands have created, and people want to access a certain social prestige that counterfeits present. But while some of them we just can’t influence, we find quite a lot do respond to a good argument.”
The problem is, perhaps, that no one of these arguments is a killer. Those countering the counterfeiters speak, for example, of the risk of buyers exposing themselves to malware, or to having their credit card details stolen—this does happen but the sophistication of the online marketplace, and the guarantees that underpin it, make this increasingly unlikely.
They speak too of the poor quality of counterfeit watches: the cheap metals, the likelihood of them lasting not long at all, their inability to fool anyone that they’re the genuine article. But that was then. We’re now in the era of the so-called “super- fake”, even of the ultra-fake. The counterfeiters’ embracing of the latest manufacturing technologies, from CNC machines to 3D printers, means the top-notch counterfeit today is all but indistinguishable from the real thing, at least to the naked eye of a non-expert. Knowledge accumulated over time means the fakers have only got better, and faster, at what they do. That’s concerning when, it’s been argued, the less distinguishable a fake watch becomes from the original, the more consumers become unwilling to pay the premium for the real thing.
Pre-owned watch dealer Watchfinder & Co noted in a 2023 report that five years ago 80 per cent of counterfeit watches sent into its stores were easily identified as fake, with 20 per cent needing closer inspection. Now those figures have been reversed. Of course, this is an aesthetic judgment, a question perhaps of less-than-perfect finishing; the counterfeit may still be well-made and contain a dependable movement, but it will lack the technology—in terms of materials and movement—of the genuine article. Some fakes can only be spotted in being handled—the hand-setting is off, or in daylight the colour isn’t quite right—which is no good to the online buyer.
“The fact is though that the counterfeiters’ emphasis is on the look of the watch because that’s all the guy who buys a counterfeit really cares about,” explains Fabrice Gueroux, author of Real & Fake Watches and an independent authenticator for many high-rolling collectors. “Yes, you can sometimes close your eyes and hold a counterfeit in your hands and there’s something that doesn’t feel right about it, but you need deep knowledge of the genuine watch for that and, of course, that’s what most people don’t have. With enough time even the best fake shows itself, and the best ones have put in the extra time on the paintwork, the fonts, the bracelet. But even I’m surprised by just how good a counterfeit can now be”.
That, he explains, is down to two factors. On the one hand, Gueroux laments, “the quality of some Swiss watches is not as high as is always claimed—so the borderline difference in quality between counterfeit and genuine watch can make spotting those counterfeits the hardest. With some brands [typically those seeking an especially high margin] the quality of the counterfeits is actually better...”
On the other hand, counterfeiters—and he says there are five mega-factories in China that collectively dominate counterfeiting, and which are known to make many millions of fake watches every year—used to have little competition and few, closely protected distribution channels. Now they have lots of competition and the internet has blown the market wide open, necessarily pushing quality up.
“Sure, many people buy a counterfeit because they just want the same look at the best quality for the cheapest price,” says Gueroux, “and they know that the real thing would cost, say, USD20,000. But then that person sells that watch on as ‘genuine’ and prices it accordingly to be convincing. And so on, such that there are so many good counterfeits [passing as genuine] on the market now.”
As for those Swiss makers still at the top of their games, they’re left facing off their counterfeiters, locked in an unending arms race of serial numbers, hallmarks, engravings and holograms—and, eventually, their inevitable copies too. “[And while] there are a lot of technical anti-counterfeiting and traceability measures now being used and developed,” notes Bugmann, “ultimately they’re of no use if the consumer deliberately wants to buy a fake”.
It does make the Swiss industry rightly worried about buyers being duped with, say, a dodgy IWC or Hublot though. And the most well- heeled and well-connected buyer can fall foul: the Brazilian footballer Neymar, rapper Little Baby and musician John Mayer have all bought watches they only later found out were counterfeit, leading to legal action in some cases.
Even brands and expert valuers can be conned: the most expensive Omega ever sold at auction, a supposed 1957 Speedmaster sold for USD3.4 million by Philips to Omega in 2021, turned out to be a so-called “Frankenwatch”, put together using parts from various vintage watches. Embarrassment perhaps prevents other stories of being duped from circulating; or, perhaps, people are just not duped in this way all that often.
Watchfinder & Co suggests that one in five watch buyers have been victims of purchasing a fake watch, the kind of figures, no doubt, that incentivised Rolex to take ownership of the problem by launching its own certified pre-owned programme in 2022. Of course, many other buyers—the small majority, according to one study—know full well that they are buying a fake watch. After all, the vast majority of fakes—Rolexes with quartz movements and the like—are still obviously so.
The counter-counterfeiters even make the appeal to guilt. There’s the rather tired line about morally minor crimes—as they may be perceived—being used to fund major ones, the likes of human or drug trafficking, though this is more a bogeyman argument than one that’s well-evidenced. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry speaks of counterfeiting’s negative impact on employment and revenue—to the tune of EUR1.9 billion annually—across the legitimate industry.
But the vast majority of people buying a fake would not buy the real thing were the counterfeit not available—they couldn’t afford it, yet still crave the status power that in part makes the genuine brands so appealing. This is especially the case in rapidly developing economies where peer comparison pressures are more stark. Indeed, the first in-depth studies of why sales of counterfeits are growing—led by Dr Xuemei Bian, professor of marketing at Northumbria University, UK—suggest that the motivation for buying a fake is far more sophisticated, and twisted, than the simple fact that of its relative affordability.
“One clear driver in purchasing [counterfeit watches] is the thrill of the hunt,” she argues. “There’s a fun factor in finding the best counterfeit for the right price. There’s a sense now of people who buy counterfeits belonging to a kind of ‘secret society’, one that’s curious about the original items and the counterfeits alike, especially in relation to their quality. There’s a transfer of the interest they would have had in the original article to the counterfeit. It’s a gateway to enjoying Rolex and other brands”.
In other words, Dr Bian’s research reveals, there is a growing culture of counterfeit buyers who buy them out of admiration for the artistry inherent in the fakery, as one might take a pleasure in just how convincing a fake Renoir is relative to the original. What’s more surprising, Dr Bian adds, is the incorrect assumption that counterfeit watches are only bought by those who can’t afford genuine ones.
“We found that even affluent people who can buy the real article buy counterfeits,” she says. “In part that’s because other people are less likely to question whether their watch is real or fake. They look the part. In part because they just see mixing up their watches—real and fake—as fun, or a bit naughty.”
So what of the ethical question? Don’t people just think buying a counterfeit watch is wrong? The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie’s anti-counterfeiting campaign of a few years ago was based around the statement “Fake Watches are for Fake People”. But, Dr Bian argues, this highlights a disconnect between what a prestige watchmaker may think of as wrong, and what a consumer might.
Take, for instance, arguably the watch industry’s strongest case against counterfeits: the plain and simple one that it’s an infringement of their intellectual property, the investment the real makers have put into building the brand value that makes counterfeiting their wares worth it in the first place. This is not necessarily regarding design per se—this typically needs to be protected under patent, and when patents expire watch brands are free to copy one another’s designs, and maybe it doesn’t help their cause that they have done so most liberally—so much as of names, logos and other trademarked elements. A replica or ‘homage’ that’s a precise copy all except the branding isn’t a counterfeit— ethically maybe it is, but not usually in law.
“Of course a lot of people know what they’re buying even if the ad calls the counterfeit a ‘replica’ or some such kind of code. But what we’re dealing with here is theft of intellectual property, of the ‘Swiss-made’ label, of the maker’s reputation,” says Bugmann. “This can be frustrating for the industry especially given that, for the EUR300 you might spend on a fake, you could actually buy a good Swiss watch—maybe not one from a top luxury brand but from what’s still a prestige manufacturer.”
An affront to these intellectual property rights really can be detrimental to the top brands’ reputations too. If counterfeiters reduce the branded products’ exclusivity, people who could afford the real things are less inclined to buy them: if there are fake Rolexes everywhere, the appeal of the genuine article is limited, in part lest it too be considered a fake. Research by Moty Amar, professor of marketing at Ono Academic School, suggests that the moral disgust—to overstate it somewhat—felt towards a counterfeit not only negatively affects it use, but also attitudes towards the genuine item that, as it were, looks like the counterfeit.
“A copy of one of our watches—all copied except putting ‘Bell & Ross’ on it—is a counterfeit,” states Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder, in no uncertain terms, “and that is an infringement of intellectual property rights. Counterfeit watches are not authentic products but imitations designed to copy the look and feel of the brand-name watch. It’s the desirability of the brand [that we have created] that’s ‘the cause’ of the desire to buy counterfeits.”
Unfortunately, further psychological studies have suggested that while the perceived risk can influence the rationalisation of why people buy counterfeits, ethical concerns—the likes of "what impact might I have on Cartier’s bottom line?"—don’t typically register at all. Yes, many strategies are used to dodge ethical consideration. Some see buying counterfeits as just making perfect consumer sense— they’re entertaining, cheap, almost disposable; others deny responsibility—"I’m merely the smallest cog in a long chain of events over which I have no influence"; while others argue that the market for counterfeits is beneficial to the brands copied. It’s a way of paying them a back-handed compliment.
Others, remarkably, even see their decision to buy a counterfeit as a form of retaliatory behaviour—a way of hitting back at brands they see as acting in a socially irresponsible way through their ‘unreasonably high’ pricing. But, whichever way you cut it, the idea that buying a counterfeit watch is in some sense wrong barely even figures, especially when it comes to dry legalistic matters of IP.
Besides, that’s only relevant to modern watches anyway. The whole world of fake watches is leaning towards ever greater complexity given the growing interest in vintage watches in recent years. Frankenwatches are said to now account for a fifth of all vintage watches sold in the US. Over the course of a watch’s lifetime it’s possible that the case will have been over-polished or the dial reconditioned; indeed, send a watch back to its maker for servicing and, until this vintage market won recognition, it was standard practice to make the watch look as new again as possible. But is a vintage watch with undisclosed reconditioned parts—perhaps reconditioned long before the current owner took possession—a counterfeit? Is, similarly, a customised watch, or a “modification”, in some sense counterfeit? These questions are still being worked through.
“Put modern hands on a vintage Monaco and it’s not exactly a counterfeit, and yet it will have a very real impact on its value,” stresses Jonathan Scatchard, founder of specialist dealers Vintage Heuer. “But the problem is that the quartz crisis [of the 1970s and 80s] caused all sorts of anomalies when so many Swiss watch companies went bust and parts were distributed and used across the industry. Authentification services have advanced considerably in recent years. But the vintage watch market has also made the question of what is a counterfeit and what isn’t even more of a grey area.”
And, adds Fabrice Gueroux, assuming that we will continue to live in a consumer culture that keeps telling us to define our self-worth through our possessions, it’s only going to get greyer still.
“The manufacturer can’t win this battle,” he states. “You have reality and you have PR. You see the manufacturers spending a lot of money on anti-counterfeiting tech but it’s all BS. They can’t keep up. You know the only way to tackle watch counterfeiters? It’s for manufacturers to push up the quality of their products, and to keep pushing. We’re getting to the point where that’s the only way that the fake watch is going to look fake.”
Originally published in Esquire ME
How do you respectfully honour another culture’s design legacy? Well, you call in the experts to make sure you get it right.
Which is exactly what the Swiss marque Vacheron Constantin have done for their latest Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols collection.
The set of four limited edition watches feature two interpretations of the “Seawater Cliff”, a famed Chinese motif that dates back to the Ming dynasty and was officially named under Emperor Wanli. VC artisans worked with the Former Associate Research Librarian of the Palace Museum, Mr Song, whose speciality field of study is the cultural tradition of Imperial China, to create dials that emulate a motif found on court buildings, furniture, porcelain, and most famously, Imperial dragon robes.
The Eternal Flow design is made via an originally Chinese technique called Jintai Blue, a form of cloisonné enamelling, which depicts mountain peaks caressed by tidal waves and set against a starry sky.
220 gold wires were used to delineate each part of the motif, taking over 50 hours to complete. Layers of enamel are then placed—how many is dependent on its colour and intensity—and it's fired in a kiln in between each coating. A polish and then an enamel coating is placed to enhance the final product.
The second design option, Moonlight Slivers, has a depth effect on a monochrome base. With hollowed waves, blue enamelled parts and raised diamonds set against a 18K white or pink gold (depending on which you choose) model, this style is a slightly more subtle option compared to the former.
It also uses enamel techniques, while the waves in the background are engraved into the dial to create volutes. Each sea tide is delicately hand-set with diamonds to evoke the moon slivers that inspired the name of this piece.
Behind the dial, the watches are powered by an in-house calibre 2460 with a 40-hour power reserve. The 22K gold rotor echoes the symbolism of the dial, since the oscillating weight is delicately engraved with a motif recalling the movement of waves and tides.
Originally published on Esquire UK
In 2022, TUDOR decided to embark on a venture to join the Alinghi Red Bull Racing Team as its main partner. With a common creed of pushing the boundaries of traditions and technology; TUDOR dove headfirst into the exciting world of yacht racing.
As the 37th America's Cup approaches (22 Aug–20 Oct), the spirit of partnership between TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing will test the waters of Barcelona. This will be TUDOR's foray into the world's most important sailing event.
TUDOR announced the release of two remarkable timepieces to celebrate the brand's entry into this competitive sphere: a time-only Pelagos FXD 42mm (25707KN) and the Pelagos FXD Chrono 43mm (25807KN). Both watches are part of the exclusive "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition." Crafted from high-performance materials like carbon composite, titanium and stainless steel, within these robust bodies are the Calibre MT5602 (COSC) and MT5813 (COSC) movements, respectively; both self-winding and come with a 70-hour power reserve.
Mirroring the cutting-edge engineering of the Alinghi Red Bull Racing AC75 yacht, the "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" utilise a high-tech composite of titanium and carbon—a first for TUDOR. Inspired by the titanium hydrofoil, the titanium bi-directional rotatable bezel has a black matte-finished carbon composite insert and grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova luminous material for visibility. The racing blue of the AC75 yacht's carbon-fibre hull is reflected in the blue-matted dial, where the luminescent ceramic composite monobloc hour markers add that strikingness to the overall design.
The "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" timepieces have a black matte-finished carbon composite cases with fixed strap bars. On the stainless steel caseback is an engraved Alinghi Red Bull Racing logo. "Snowflake” hands—one of the many signatures of TUDOR divers' watches—are grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova luminous material filling. With all these factors, the "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" watches make formidable companions on the high seas.
On cresting waves and the sea-tanged winds, the elements may assail those who dare but the spirit of adventure and innovation often supercede boundaries. With TUDOR's partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, that push against limits can propel them to greatness.
Discover the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” watches at the TUDOR boutique by Cortina Watch at Raffles City, #01-37C or online.
Hublot teams up with renowned tattooist Maxime Plescia-Büchi fora collaboration series. With Plescia-Büchi’s assertive relief placed ontoHublot’s flagship Big Bang model, it becomes a welcomed alchemy. A magic circle trapped onto the dial if you will; attention is drawn towards these three-dimensional leylines etched onto the geometry of the watch.
Last year, Plescia-Büchi moved to the Spirit of Big Bang—where the Big Bang 42mm model is infused with a “barrel”-shaped case. In a reveal, the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu is a skeletonised automatic chronograph(HUB4700) with the date at 4:30, a 50-hour power reserve and are designed oscillating weight. Limited and fashioned in three materials—titanium, ceramic, gold—the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu took centrestage at the Salone del Mobile inMilan.
Once more into the breach, another Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu was released, this time in sapphire. The material’s transparency enhances the sharpness of Plescia-Büchi’s designs; with the only non-transparent elements being the crown, the pushbuttons, the screws on the case, the6 H-shaped screws on the bezel and the folding clasp. While it is as tough as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale),the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu in Sapphire is, unfortunately, impervious to being sold widely as it’s limited to only 100 pieces worldwide
You'd probably find it odd holding a Bvlgari Aluminium for the first time. You heft it in your hands, unsure of its weight. It’s undeniably metal, but the light, cool, matte aluminium feels unlike any watch you’ve encountered. Then there is the rubber bracelet, each supple piece of rubber linking to the next, softly swivelling on partially exposed joints. You can’t quite put a finger on its design either—is it a sporty watch? Contemporary? You'd wager it’d look equally at home paired with a suit though. The Bvlgari Aluminium is complex, avant-garde even, but it’s a haute horlogerie affair, and this one is unmistakably Bvlgari.
It’s 1998, Bvlgari, a titan of luxury, just revealed its latest collection—a luxury watch line made from two heretical materials: aluminium, a material typically relegated to soda cans, and, well, rubber. It was a defiant move that sent shockwaves rippling through the realm of haute horlogerie. Little did Bvlgari know, this one step would propel the brand into the future, and it was dragging the entire watchmaking industry along with it, whether they liked it or not. Just ask what Apple thinks of aluminium watches.
Having received acclaim as an iconic watch at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2020, Bvlgari finally took its celebrated timepiece out of its award case and unveiled the second generation in the same year. The Bvlgari Aluminium returns in 2024 with three new models—a black GMT model, an emerald green chronograph, and a white automatic version—and they’re arriving with upgrades.
While each differs in capabilities, all three variations share a hallmark: the unabashed “BVLGARI • BVLGARI” signature carved around the 40mm watch face—its stirring arrogance inspired by the names of past Roman emperors stamped on coins, subdued by the black velvety surface of the rubber bezel. Born out of FKM rubber—a notoriously durable material in watchmaking—its bracelet features rectangular rubber blocks held together by pivoting aluminium links. This ensures a perfect drape on your wrist, providing an airy feel absent in most rubber straps while eliminating that clingy grip on sportier days. Though powered by different calibres, all three watches have a power reserve of 42 hours and water resistance of 100m.
As the only watch widely available in the collection, the Bvlgari Aluminium Black GMT builds upon its predecessors by introducing a Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) function, flaunting its capacity for dual-time zone capabilities. This serves as a homage to the inception of the Bvlgari Aluminium when it was brazenly printed onto the fuselage of an Alitalia Boeing 747, which, of course, shared a material common between them: aluminium. Speaking of which, Bvlgari has developed an alloy of aluminium designed to be more durable than the original 1998 collection. Set against an off-white dial, the black hands with luminous sword ends stretch towards the indices surrounded by a colour-coded GMT function with red representing day and black for night. Nestled deeper lies the Calibre B192, a self-winding mechanical movement that allows adjustments for seconds, minutes, hours, GMT hands, and the date to be made through the watch’s single crown.
In a nod to its Italian heritage, the limited-edition Chronograph Smeraldo draws inspiration from the alluring island of Capri. The name of the game is la dolce vita: picture yourself at the heart of Capri, wading in the turquoise water of the Marina Grande. The sand, so fine it feels like powdered sugar squishing between your toes. As you venture deeper, the water deepens just enough to lap at your calves. The water shimmering like shattered gemstones, an impossible emerald so vivid it seems to hold the entire sky itself captive. Here, you feel only the sun on your skin, the cool embrace of the water, and you let the breeze carry your soul into the ocean.
This scene is brought to life in the Chronograph Smeraldo that’s limited to just 1,000 pieces. Now, let’s talk design. Dark green dominates here, unifying the bezel and rubber bracelet to form a cohesive theme. Dark green hands sweep across a gradient dial, transitioning from white to turquoise—a reflection of the Capri coastline. The chronograph counters echo the same palette, hammering home the elegance and essence of an Italian summer. Just as the sun's energy fuels life on Earth, the automatic B130 mechanical movement powers the chronograph and date function of the watch. An engraving of the compass rose adorns the aluminium caseback, ready to rest flush against skin.
The White Automatic completes the 2024 Bvlgari Aluminium trilogy, embodying a blend of minimalist elegance and unflinching boldness, while capturing whispers of the Colosseum’s grandeur all at once. Perhaps the most striking piece in the collection, this limited edition watch evokes the spirit of '90s Bvlgari being draped in all white, mirroring the brand’s audacity back in 1998 during its initial release. The inspiration from ancient Roman coins is magnified by a sleek, one-toned aluminium white dial, creating an honest canvas that complements the splash of red added by the seconds hand. Rhodium-plated indexes and hands treated with Super-LumiNova® only add to the grandeur. Legibility is close to perfection with this timepiece, featuring the classic Bvlgari touch of a 12 and 6, and a clean date display at 3 o’clock. The White Automatic owes its soul to the Calibre B77, the reliable automatic mechanical movement that energised its predecessors.
From the functionality of the Black GMT to the Italian charm of the Chronograph Smeraldo and the minimalist Roman grandeur of the White Automatic, each Bvlgari Aluminium is a conversation starter. On its own, it's a watch that serves as a statement, a bold declaration that luxury can be redefined, that elegance can be found in the unexpected. But on your wrist, it’s a watch that not only speaks for itself as a symbol of supreme confidence in one's own artistry, but also one that undoubtedly screams Bvlgari, Bvlgari.
They say the higher you climb, the harder you fall. Yet, greatness rarely blossoms from playing it safe, does it? The current World and Olympic pole-vaulting champion is a Swedish national who recently broke the world record. The eighth time in his career, we might add and at a record height of 6.24m. This is unprecedented territory, folks. This is someone who jumped higher than anyone has and has landed intact. Meet OMEGA's ambassador, Armand "Mondo" Duplantis. Oh, and meet the new Seamaster Aqua Terra that's inspired by him and his achievements.
Enter OMEGA, the watchmaking house that decided such a feat deserved to be celebrated with a new timepiece. Introducing the new Seamaster Aqua Terra, a watch infused with Duplantis’ DNA and passion for pole vaulting. Dressed in blue and stitched in yellow, the 41mm timepiece pays homage to the Swedish flag. And there's also the emulation of the competition of Olympic pole vaulting through a number of subtle details.
Yellow splashes adorn the quarter hour numbers and The Seamaster name. But the most prominent tribute is the pole vault-inspired seconds hand that is also painted yellow. Its tip, treated with Super-LumiNova, represents the grip of the pole.
In a world of high-performance sports, milliseconds can determine the difference between victory and defeat. Influenced by the precision of pole vaulting, the Seamaster Aqua Terra imports this very essence with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre to assure unparalleled accuracy. Much like Duplantis’ unwavering focus, the watch's movement is magnet-resistant, which means, there will be no external factors that could compromise its performance.
The Porsche 963 is a winner. Racking up podium finishes in over two-thirds of its races, the vehicle is, quite simply, built to succeed. Hailed as “the pinnacle of Porsche’s engineering expertise,” the race car notably celebrated its first major endurance race with a win at the 24 Hours of Daytona this year. Having dominated the racing world, the Porsche's appetite for winning has bled into the realm of horology by partnering with TAG Heuer to transform the Porsche 963 into a limited-edition chronograph.
Fittingly limited to just 963 pieces worldwide, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 features sub-dials with four Super-LumiNova blocks—a ceramic-based compound that captures and stores light to produce luminescence in the dark—echoing the iconic night-time visibility of the Porsche 911. This feature captures the thrill of 24-hour endurance races where drivers battle from dusk till dawn, and uncompromised legibility is vital.
Taking a page from the Porsche’s playbook, the 44mm watch features a bold skeletonised dial with tubular structural elements evocative of the race car's high-performance chassis. Forged from lightweight yet robust carbon, the bezel mirrors the engineering ethos behind the Porsche 963’s construction. Lift the hood and you’ll find a TH20-00 Calibre, a vertical clutch chronograph movement similar to the systems found in cars connecting the engine’s flywheel with the transmission. This ensures a smooth, "jump-free" chronograph operation. Y'know, like a Porsche.
While its technical specs are impressive, true beauty lies in the details. The red index at 4 o’clock isn’t just a splash of colour; it's a symbol of the surge of adrenaline as a race counts down. The watch’s rubber strap takes inspiration from NACA-style low-drag air inlets found in legendary Porsche race cars like the record-breaking Porsche 917. Even the oscillating mass—a hidden treat for watch enthusiasts—features the iconic Porsche steering wheel motif, further blurring the lines between wristwatch and race car.
It began with a challenge from the TUDOR Pro Cycling team: design a watch capable of enduring the demands of professional cycling whilst remaining a realistic option for the road. What came after is the birth of the Pelagos FXD Chrono "Cycling Edition".
“If you know what you want to be, then you inevitably become it.”
– Oscar Wilde.
The latest addition to the Pelagos FXD catalogue mirrors the very DNA of the world’s fastest bikes. Featuring a 43mm matte-finished case crafted from carbon composite, it's akin to the carbon fibre found in high-speed bicycles. The integration of titanium elements promises greater robustness to the timepiece, preparing it for even the most extreme circumstances.
The “Cycling Edition” of the Pelagos FXD Chrono graduates from its nautical predecessor by introducing a cyclist-focused tachymeter scale tuned specifically for speeds relevant to cycling, rather than that of cars. A fixed 60-minute bezel wraps around the scale to thoughtfully direct focus to the home of the watch. There, a black dial sits with striking red accents to ensure legibility at first glance.
Peer beneath the surface of crystals and carbon and you’ll find the Manufacture Calibre MT5813. This is the same pulsating movement that gave life to the first FXD Chronograph. Featuring an automatic 4Hz movement, it offers a suite of complications including a 45-minute counter, date, and stop-seconds for precise time-setting. Its power reserve of 70 hours coupled with 100m of water resistance makes it a reliable partner suitable for any occasion.
What do you do when you're an artist fascinated with the past, present and future? You poetically merge all three to fuel your art. New York-based artist Daniel Arsham is celebrated for crafting modern-looking artifacts or figures that appear eroded, mimicking the effect of casts being burried for centuries. Future relics, if you will. Given his penchant for time, it makes sense that his next project will involve a watch brand like Hublot. The matrimony between his artistic perspective and Hublot's technical expertise yields something that feels modern and otherworldly, the Arsham Droplet.
The Arsham Droplet reimagines the classic pocket watch by building on antique forms using the latest production methods and materials. These updates challenge watchmaking norms, fashioning a timepiece that looks straight out of Ex Machina. Drawing inspiration from nature's water elements, the Arsham Droplet employs titanium, rubber, and sapphire crystal to create a tactile experience that feels like whatever the antithesis of grasping water is.
True to the concept of fluidity, the Arsham Droplet can be shown off in more ways than one. As a necklace to a pocket watch, or displayed as a statement piece on its titanium and mineral glass table stand, Hublot’s patented double "one-click" system ensures seamless attachment.
A timepiece without a heart is merely a shell and the Arsham Droplet comes alive with Hublot's Meca-10 manufacture movement. It flaunts an impressive 10-day power reserve shielded by two domed teardrop-shaped sapphire crystals measuring 73.2mm in length and 52.6 mm in width. Fortified with a titanium case and a custom Arsham green rubber bumper, it's double encased with 17 O-ring seals to ensure nothing contaminates the quiet and intimate environment of the calibre. Featuring Hublot's signature H-shaped screws, the pocket watch bears a stamp of the artist's monogram on its crystal surface. Adding to the Arsham Droplet's theme, it has a water resistance of 30m, impressive for a pocket watch this intricate.
Given the complicated construction of the Arsham Droplet, it's no surprise it's limited to just 99 pieces world-wide.
Every watch wearer knows that the tourbillon is considered as one of the heights of watchmaking. Like many things, timepieces aren’t spared from gravity’s cruel anchors. But watchmakers, in the bid for accurate timekeeping, push back.
Thus, the tourbillon. This marvel has an escapement and balance wheel that are fixed on a rotating cage. This provides a uniform weight against gravity’s pull. ZENITH gives the humble tourbillon a modern spin that's exemplified in the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon.
Nestled in a 41mm case, faceted and bold, and with a matching bracelet (stainless steel or black ceramic), the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon houses the new El Primero 3630 automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre. It has a generous power reserve of 60 hours and operates at a high-frequency rate of 5Hz (36’000VpH) to resist shocks. The Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges are arranged in a sunray pattern that seem to dart out of the tourbillon.
Dial-side, at six o’clock, the movement is visible through an aperture of this intricately-designed dial. (The sapphire-equipped case back lets you see the rotor as well.) The tourbillon cage is in the shape of an open four-pointed star—the same futuristic lines found in other DEFY pieces with tourbillon mechanisms. Turning around its own axis, the tourbillon completes one revolution every 60 seconds. And radiating from its mesmerising dance is the engraved starry sky pattern on the dial. Luminescent-applied markers and hands further contrast the dial—rhodium-plated indices for the blue dial and rose gold-plated indices for the black dial.
And like the other DEFY Skyline models, the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon comes with a second rubber strap (in blue or black) coupled with a folding clasp. If you're like me and are in a fickle mood, the straps are easily exchanged, thanks to the quick strap-change fixture on the caseback.
Since ancient times, sports have symbolised and celebrated the spirit of human endeavour. Legendary feats of physical and psychological accomplishments have been enshrined in the annals of history. Within the context of sports, much of the basis of achievement centres around time, with competitors striving to be the fastest in the field. As part of our celebration of wellness, we commemorate the instruments that not only measure and determine the basis of sporting competition, but also symbolise the spirit of human endurance across land, ocean and in the air.
In motorsport, no race embodies the sporting spirit of endurance and mastery better than the renowned 24 Hours of Le Mans. Drivers are required to possess cat-like reflexes and superhuman levels of stamina in order to survive, let alone compete and think about beating other contenders to win the gruelling 24-hour race. To commemorate the centenary of the world’s best- known endurance race, Rolex issued a special limited-release Daytona (recently discontinued in white gold, and replaced with a yellow- gold iteration). The embodiment of Rolex’s nine decades of motorsport heritage, the Daytona has always been synonymous with legendary feats of motorsport achievement.
As for this particular Daytona, the distinction lies in the details. Apart from a special bezel that highlights the “100” indicator in a bright racing red, the “Le Mans” Daytona also sports an exclusive, new calibre 4132 movement that boosts the maximum chronograph measure from the standard 12 hours, up to a Le Mans-appropriate 24 hours. In terms of aesthetics, the ‘reverse panda’ dial is reminiscent of its ‘Paul Newman’ predecessors of the early ’70s—a deliberate choice, considering Paul Newman himself was an avid racer and one-time competitor in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979. The horological embodiment of the human desire to consistently push the limits of motorsport, the Rolex “Le Mans” Daytona combines motorsport history with the best of Rolex’s racing association and watchmaking heritage.
Out at sea, no race brings out the best in maritime performance more than the America’s Cup. The oldest competition in international sport, the contest draws the crème de la crème of sailing talent and yacht design innovation, and is the pinnacle of competition in a nautical arena. Officine Panerai, too, is no stranger to the sea. Having supplied the Royal Italian Navy for a substantial part of its history, maritime performance is a key pillar of its DNA. On the other hand, the Luna Prada Rossa sailing team has become synonymous with seafaring performance and a desire to push the limits, having notably been the Challenger of Record for the 2021 iteration of the America’s Cup.
The partnership is one borne of the love for the sea and has birthed timepieces that capture the union of daring, skill, cutting-edge technology and that relentless pursuit of excellence that drives Luna Rossa’s competitive edge. This year’s release is no different. The Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio—unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders—combines the best of Panerai’s watchmaking nous.
The first timepiece featuring the new SuperLumiNova X2 lume on the indices and hour hand, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio has a case made of the same Grade 5 titanium used in the manufacture of the Luna Rossa racing yacht. The watch is also—as expected—water resistant up to 500 metres, and is proven to withstand pressure of up to 25 per cent more than the guaranteed water resistance value. A handsome union of avant-garde technology and transcendental performance, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio is the personification of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team as it vies for its first America’s Cup victory this August.
Since early civilisation, humanity has shared a collective desire to take to the skies, long before the Cartier Santos-Dumont Reverse Wright Brothers’ first powered flight. Following their breakthrough in 1903, the human desire for continual improvement and exploration saw inventors and engineers begin to push the boundaries of flight, seeking to go higher, faster and further—exploration that persists even today. Across most aviation endeavours, time has been one of—if not the most important—elements at play, with watches such as the Cartier Santos-Dumont testament to the importance of time in the process of flight. While the modern Santos-Dumont is more of a dress watch than a true ‘sport’ watch, its continued relevance spotlights Louis Cartier’s foresight and design acumen—staying power is not something easily achieved, given how modern trends fade almost as quickly as they emerge.
The source of that staying power becomes immediately evident through this year’s Santos-Dumont Rewind. While it presents itself as any other regular Santos-Dumont in terms of movement and case dimensions, it displays the time in an interesting and playful way: backwards. To achieve that, Cartier has mirror-flipped the positions of the Roman numerals on the dial—read clockwise, it goes from 12, to 11, to 10, and so on. Despite its cleverness, however, the Rewind is still a piece that insists on being taken seriously—the smoky, scarlet dial and matching ruby cabochon (denoting its platinum case) subtly hint at the pedigree beneath its quirky facade.
As a timepiece—its presentation of the horological unpresentable in a format that has come to be beloved by watch aficionados everywhere—reveals the postmodernist artistry behind the Santos-Dumont’s design process. That said, it still carries the competitive, sporting essence of its predecessors, while reminding us all of the need to rediscover the elements of fun and freedom in sport every now and then.
