For any confirmation of what the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 20 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time

Photo by Hermès

It's not that there's nothing sexy about Hermès; there's nothing explicitly or brashly so about the storied luxury house. For spring/summer 2024, longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian pushed the limits of what we know of Hermès with a play on summer sensuality by way of layered contrasts and lots of skin.

There's an architectural element to the spring/summer 2024 menswear collection that's reflected in the staging of the show. Nichanian intended the clothes to act as architecture, from which the body became the foundation.

Models appeared from behind openwork screens resembling the graph-like fabrics that ran rampant throughout the collection. Lightweight—and at times, translucent—fabrications were layered atop of each while modestly revealing skin, especially in the collection's lighter hues.

But what was the most surprising element of the show were the shorts. Nichanian opted for shorts with inseams that couldn't be longer than five inches. It's quite possibly the shortest that Hermès has ever gone when it comes to the length of shorts. It's hardly anything to complain about given the heatwave we've been experiencing, but for Hermès, it's quite a big deal.

The fit: With the short shorts, the revealing of skin was still done tastefully—the Hermès way. The shorts were crafted from a range of cotton blends as well as technical fabrics. They were designed with elasticated waistbands that still featured belt loops for an elevated look and for the added style option of wearing one with a belt (or two as they're styled).

The entire spring/summer 2024 menswear collection felt free in a sense that nothing felt constricted. Silhouettes consisted of roomy cut shirts and blousons with trousers that range from slim- (but not excessively so) to wide-cut that were all elasticised at the waist.

Photo by Hermès
Photo by Hermès
Photo by Hermès

The details: The opening look included a Haut à Courroies bag that was treated as though it's been weathered out in the sun. A slight imprint of the bag's lock, clochette as well as its flaps were done in a subtle tonal variation—a beautiful rendition to a classic icon.

The collection's double étrivière belts—essentially fitted with buckles that resemble stirrups—were some of the more inspired elements in the collection. They're connected in the middle by a chain that added some edge, and recalls the more punk-esque autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection presented earlier this year.

Photo by Hermès

Three exceptional looks: Look 6's easy, summer fit that featured the collection's shorts as well as a crinkled blazer topped off with a roped tote bag; look 25's option of layering pretty much the same outfit as in look 6, with a deliciously oversized shortened parka; and look 46's knit-layering masterclass.

The takeaway: Showing off skin tastefully is an art.

View the full Hermès spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.

Look 1. Photo by Hermès
Look 2. Photo by Hermès
Look 3. Photo by Hermès
Look 4. Photo by Hermès
Look 5. Photo by Hermès
Look 6. Photo by Hermès
Look 7. Photo by Hermès
Look 8. Photo by Hermès
Look 9. Photo by Hermès
Look 10. Photo by Hermès
Look 11. Photo by Hermès
Look 12. Photo by Hermès
Look 13. Photo by Hermès
Look 14. Photo by Hermès
Look 15. Photo by Hermès
Look 16. Photo by Hermès
Look 17. Photo by Hermès
Look 18. Photo by Hermès
Look 19. Photo by Hermès
Look 20. Photo by Hermès
Look 21. Photo by Hermès
Look 22. Photo by Hermès
Look 23. Photo by Hermès
Look 24. Photo by Hermès
Look 25. Photo by Hermès
Look 26. Photo by Hermès
Look 27. Photo by Hermès
Look 28. Photo by Hermès
Look 29. Photo by Hermès
Look 30. Photo by Hermès
Look 31. Photo by Hermès
Look 32. Photo by Hermès
Look 33. Photo by Hermès
Look 34. Photo by Hermès
Look 35. Photo by Hermès
Look 36. Photo by Hermès
Look 37. Photo by Hermès
Look 38. Photo by Hermès
Look 39. Photo by Hermès
Look 40. Photo by Hermès
Look 41. Photo by Hermès
Look 42. Photo by Hermès
Look 43. Photo by Hermès
Look 44. Photo by Hermès
Look 45. Photo by Hermès
Look 46. Photo by Hermès
Look 47. Photo by Hermès
Look 48. Photo by Hermès
Look 49. Photo by Hermès
Look 50. Photo by Hermès
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