…as the wonders of nature, organic and unyielding with a sense of defiance to what’s expected.

Artistic director Véronique Nichanian’s long tenure at a house that’s not her own has been well documented. And while that may conjure up notions of predictable offerings, the reality is quite the opposite. Nichanian is a builder of worlds, having crafted Hermès’ menswear universe from the very start and then helped it evolve with the times. Throughout the process, she continues to surprise.

Take the Spring/Summer 2025 runway show for example, when suddenly, a model comes sauntering down the runway, shirt completely unbuttoned and torso increasingly exposed as the lightweight material moves as he does. Not only was the bare chest an outlier in Hermès menswear runway shows, it was also inked up (temporarily we’re informed), continuing the L’Instruction du Roy design printed on the shirt. It’s the second look featuring the design, but the first with such a brazen impact in the line-up; two more looks in the series were worn by models who were also inked but showing much less skin.

The Hermès man may appreciate the finer details in artisanal craftsmanship, but he’s no dud. There’s a certain je ne sais quoi about him when one least expects it. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is French cool.

…as the open sea on a clear day, undulating ever so slowly to nature’s rhythms.

However, don’t let the unexpected show of skin throw you off. Nichanian isn’t pandering to or hoping to cater to a new audience. Take it as a metaphor, if you will. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection’s palette of neutrals coupled with doses of pink are akin to still waters—they run deep. They’re complements to the overall breezy silhouette of sufficiently oversized tops and jackets paired with summer-ready sandals. And while these may be part of an aesthetic that Nichanian has crafted for the Hermès menswear universe, there’s still the capacity for the unexpected and yet still on brand.

…as a prized racehorse, focused on the finish line and blazing through with unparalleled experience.

The collection’s undeniable strengths are in the details and the elements that have to be felt.

You might baulk at the idea of florals for the season as expected as they may seem, but here, they’re embroidered as meticulous linework onto blousons, overshirts and jackets with a rubberised touch. It’s an odd sensation that tickles the brain because you’re not expecting something that looks delicate to feel synthetic. The same can be said of the collection’s sweaters and tops printed with the Étude équestre print—they’re actually made of nubuck despite having the appearance of lightweight fabric.

Hermès’ equestrian roots prevail in quite possibly the most unexpected detail in the collection. What appears as though they’re haphazardly painted brush strokes in silver foil on parkas, hooded blousons and overshirts, actually integrates hidden horse figures as part of the Cavalcade sidérale print. And in some cases, the pieces are also reversible for added functionality and freedom of wear.

So, predictable? Not quite.

Hermès is always being talked about, especially of late. That's not a bad thing of course; as they say, any publicity is good publicity. Perhaps, that's why the Maison saw the need to increase the capacity of its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show at 9 Place d'Iena. A PR rep told me that the seating configuration was different this time around so that they could accommodate more people—a good sign that there's increasing interest in Hermès.

It did seem as though artistic director Véronique Nichanian felt the need to widen the appeal of her menswear creations for the Maison. The Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was perhaps one of the safest collections by Nichanian in the last few years. But don't get me wrong, it's not bad. It's just that we're used to seeing Nichanian be more experimental with her menswear vision that a pared back, almost classic collection was a stark contrast to her previous work.

Having said that, there was still plenty to discover. It's not a collection that one would immediately strike as distinct or in industry speak, "editorial". No; this was a collection you'd have to touch, feel and understand a bit more intimately in order to appreciate the craft and thought behind it.

The fit: Sticking to her penchant for oversized outerwear and tops, Nichanian slightly extended the lengths of jackets, rebelling from the current fervour for cropped everything. More traditional tailoring was also brought back, cut slim and worn with equally slim ties, while an array of outerwear took on familiar forms but rendered in leather and technical fabrications. A particular treatment employed on a number of coats and jackets appeared like textured patent leather on the runway, but was actually coated fabric.

The colour palette was classic Hermès with a heavy usage of earth tones for the season. The more colourful pieces in the collection were knitwear with motifs inspired by the uniforms of jockeys. But at the same time, the colours used were complementary and served to break away from the monotony.

The details: Instantly, my eyes were drawn to the clever styling of a scarf turned into a double-tour necklace. This was done quite simply by sliding the scarf into a number of Hermès rings (you could pretty much do this on your own with any just about any ring) and then securing it with a knot. Quite a neat style hack, in my opinion.

As an example of the Maison's savoir-faire beyond fashion, a number of outerwear incorporated blankets as part of their design. These blanket liners could be removed when needed but attaching them functioned to add much needed warmth. They're also finished with blanket stitching for a beautiful contrast.

On the bags front, the Haut à courroies got an update with a detachable addition that slides onto the bag's front hardware for added external pockets. And aligning with the Hermès theme of the year—Drawn to craft—a number of iterations featured a completely hardware-free version replaced with a clever connect-the-dots motif.

Three exceptional looks: Look 3 that'll be the perfect outfit for next winter; the blanket-stitching savoir-faire in look 17; and the cool elegance and simplicity of look 44.

The takeaway: While social media debates over the Birkin versus the Wirkin, Hermès proves that its signature style and elegance can't be replicated for cheap.

View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

Saturday during Paris Fashion Week Men's is Hermès day.

Longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian is taking a slightly different approach this season, switching up the runway show format once again. While show attendees will be watching the show live in Paris at 3pm (10pm Singapore time), the show film will only be screened a couple of hours later. A little bit of a delayed gratification, if you will.

Nichanian has cemented Hermès' menswear look for decades now—founded on classic staples designed with clean lines and an occasional nuance of playfulness. Based on the teasers, she's most likely sticking to a relatively modern, oversized silhouette with hues that's already synonymous with the Hermès menswear universe. What surprises will Nichanian include throughout the collection? That, we will have to wait and discover.

For confirmation of what the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Sunday, 26 January 2025 at 12am Singapore time

Longtime artistic director of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian, has crafted such a signature look for the House's menswear collections that its Spring/Summer 2025 outing will certainly be one to anticipate. Hermès has already teased a look—a knit shirt with a dip-dye effect in a blue that reflects the sea. It does seem as though that could be the reference point for Nichanian's latest collection, or at the very least, just one element of it.

For confirmation of what the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time

For any confirmation of what the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 20 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time

It's not that there's nothing sexy about Hermès; there's nothing explicitly or brashly so about the storied luxury house. For spring/summer 2024, longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian pushed the limits of what we know of Hermès with a play on summer sensuality by way of layered contrasts and lots of skin.

There's an architectural element to the spring/summer 2024 menswear collection that's reflected in the staging of the show. Nichanian intended the clothes to act as architecture, from which the body became the foundation.

Models appeared from behind openwork screens resembling the graph-like fabrics that ran rampant throughout the collection. Lightweight—and at times, translucent—fabrications were layered atop of each while modestly revealing skin, especially in the collection's lighter hues.

But what was the most surprising element of the show were the shorts. Nichanian opted for shorts with inseams that couldn't be longer than five inches. It's quite possibly the shortest that Hermès has ever gone when it comes to the length of shorts. It's hardly anything to complain about given the heatwave we've been experiencing, but for Hermès, it's quite a big deal.

The fit: With the short shorts, the revealing of skin was still done tastefully—the Hermès way. The shorts were crafted from a range of cotton blends as well as technical fabrics. They were designed with elasticated waistbands that still featured belt loops for an elevated look and for the added style option of wearing one with a belt (or two as they're styled).

The entire spring/summer 2024 menswear collection felt free in a sense that nothing felt constricted. Silhouettes consisted of roomy cut shirts and blousons with trousers that range from slim- (but not excessively so) to wide-cut that were all elasticised at the waist.

The details: The opening look included a Haut à Courroies bag that was treated as though it's been weathered out in the sun. A slight imprint of the bag's lock, clochette as well as its flaps were done in a subtle tonal variation—a beautiful rendition to a classic icon.

The collection's double étrivière belts—essentially fitted with buckles that resemble stirrups—were some of the more inspired elements in the collection. They're connected in the middle by a chain that added some edge, and recalls the more punk-esque autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection presented earlier this year.

Three exceptional looks: Look 6's easy, summer fit that featured the collection's shorts as well as a crinkled blazer topped off with a roped tote bag; look 25's option of layering pretty much the same outfit as in look 6, with a deliciously oversized shortened parka; and look 46's knit-layering masterclass.

The takeaway: Showing off skin tastefully is an art.

View the full Hermès spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.