In the world of horology, shapes are more than mere design choices—they tell stories, evoke emotions, and can even challenge the concept of time itself. We often hear about timepieces being as much art as they are instruments of time, after all, each watch has its own story to tell. Some watches embrace symmetry, while others revel in breaking away from it. Design and functionality blur into art, and they challenge how we perceive it. This is our curated selection of watches that do it best.
Circles are inherently paradoxical if you think about it. By definition, they are a perfectly balanced geometrical shape—from the centre to its circumference, every point is of equal length. Yet, this very perfection leaves them vulnerable to imbalance. The slightest nudge can set a circle rolling in any direction, and the smallest irregularity can cause it to deviate off course. We like to think that A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date captures this delicate tension.
On top of the perfectly round 44mm case, the timepiece’s dial perpetuates this symmetry through jumping digital displays positioned at opposite ends. Around them, a grey expanse colours the dial, representing the ambivalent space, the in-between—the balance and the imbalance. The 31 days of the month marches along the dial's circumference, encircling the dial. As time passes over the course of a month, each new day is highlighted in vibrant red, disrupting the equilibrium of the watch.
To call someone “square” is to label them rigid, unbending, immovable. In some contexts, it can also suggest a lack of creativity. However, in the world of horology, where square watches are a rarity, the opposite holds true. Hublot’s Square Bang is the brand’s first foray into square-framed timepieces, and the limited edition Unico All Black Diamonds, in particular, drew us in. With its all-black aesthetic—from the rubber strap to the case and the exposed skeleton dial revealing its inner workings—the watch is a study in darkness. Like a black hole, this little black box on your wrist exerts a gravitational pull, drawing eyes to its depth.
In keeping with the square's reputation for strength, the case is constructed from microblasted and polished black ceramic, an ultra-durable material that’s almost entirely scratchproof. Yet, there’s a muted elegance behind its tough exterior with black diamonds carefully tracing the edge of the case. Rugged yet refined, darkness and sparkle—the Square Bang Unico All Black Diamonds isn’t afraid of stepping out of line.
Snakes have long been linked to time in various cultures. In Ancient Egyptian mythology, the Ouroboros—an iconic symbol of a snake devouring its own tail—represents the cyclical nature of life, death, and time. Hindu mythology has Shesha Nāga, a cosmic serpent that controls the flow of time by coiling and uncoiling itself. Bvlgari carries this idea forward with the Serpenti Tubogas, a watch that is a snake; a snake that tells time.
The case of the watch mimics the skull of a serpent, while its bracelet elegantly coils and wraps itself around the wrist in two-toned rose gold and steel. The watch blends softness and intensity, exuding both vulnerability and ferocity—one might even call it a “women’s watch”, which is ironic considering watches were historically made for women. But I’d like to think the Serpenti Tubogas, much like its celestial counterparts, can transcend boundaries—even the rigid societal ones of today.
Rectangles are natural frames, they create boundaries between worlds. The shape itself is a creative tool, and has long been prevalent in art. Think about it, rectangular frames are used in cinema to give films structure in a closed, controlled space. In painting, rectangles can be used to reinforce themes of isolation. Recall Edward Hopper boxing characters into rooms, or utilising window frames to cut them off from the outside world. Perhaps this is why rectangular watches resonate with me most. Take Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon, for instance. Its rectangular frame offers a captivating glimpse into the past.
Measuring just 27mm in width, its sunrayed grey dial with striped engravings on the case evokes the hedonistic elegance of the Art Deco era. However, the hand-assembled flying tourbillion sitting at 6 O’clock is what draws eyes. The case can be flipped to reveal a different face on its underbelly—one that’s more raw and exposed. Whatever you choose, you can rest assured knowing the flying tourbillion will be visible on both sides of the rectangle.
The Cartier Crash needs no introduction. Its elongated case resembles something that’s been melting under intense heat, creating a surreal, pulled effect. The watch is steeped in irony, which shouldn’t come as a surprise with a case as expressive as this. The melted case gives the impression of distorted time, yet it tells time precisely as intended. As if suspended in a moment of chaos, even the Roman numerals have been elongated and stuck in time, yet the sword-shaped blued-steel hands continue their steady ticking. The Cartier Crash’s rarity and desirability on the market almost elevates it to the level of an artefact—one that plays with the idea of time as something mutable. It presents a surreal interpretation of the concept, one where past, present and future twist and meld into one.
Illustration: Joan Tai using Adobe Firefly
Let’s settle this here and now: Who made the first wristwatch? According to Guinness World Records, the earliest one was a custom piece created in 1868 for a Hungarian Countess named Koscowicz—though this glittering accessory functioned more as jewellery than as a timekeeper. But whispers in horological circles tell of an earlier creation—one made by watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1810, predating Countess Koscowicz’s by several decades. So, who gets the rightful claim to the first wristwatch? We may never know for certain. What we do know, however, is who made wristwatches available to everyday people, breaking societal norms and shifting perceptions that the then-feminine wristwatch could be worn by men too. In an era when women were treated as second-class citizens, Cartier not only convinced men to commit the "cardinal sin" of strapping bracelets onto their wrists but managed to make them willingly pay for it.
It’s 1901, and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont is wrestling with his aircraft controls while trying—and failing—to pull out his pocket watch to check the time. In a moment of frustration, he confides in his friend, Louis Cartier. Little did they know, that conversation would change the course of history. Three years later, the original Santos De Cartier watch was born. But it wasn’t until 1911 that Cartier began producing it for commercial sale. This, of course, had a ripple effect, leading to a world today where people still struggle to fathom that wristwatches were originally created for women. Had Cartier not popularised wristwatches commercially, who knows how long it would’ve taken for wristwatches to catch on, if at all. But thanks to the Santos De Cartier, I guess we’ll never know.
Louis Cartier quite clearly wanted to break the wheel—to reinvent it. So, in a world full of circles, he did so, quite literally. Naturally, the Santos De Cartier is also the first square wristwatch. While the watch has evolved over time, the core of Cartier’s vision remains. The corners are rounded, softening the contact against the wrist. Distinctive Roman numerals stretch to the bezel’s edge, ingeniously accompanied by black markers to ensure accurate legibility. And, of course, the iconic eight rivets that punctuate the bezel to the case still remain. These rivets eventually extended into metal bracelets, replacing the original leather.
Now, Cartier attempts to reinvent the wheel—sorry, square— once again with the Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time. This latest evolution sees the inclusion of a complication that makes perfect sense considering the watch’s aviation history. Powered by a customised automatic movement featuring dual time zone capabilities, you can now track time both where you are and where you’re from simultaneously. Alternatively, you can set it to where your best friend is (shoutout Cartier and Santos-Dumont). The second time display features a 12-hour format with an AM/PM indicator, enveloped by a grey sundial finished in satin, lending it a brilliant metallic lustre. Just outside, polished steel meets brushed bezel, framing the silver tones of the dial in perfect harmony. The Santos De Cartier’s evolution doesn’t stop here, though.
Other latest iterations, like the Santos-Dumont Rewind, also showcase Cartier's 177-year jewellery expertise with innovations like the SmartLink system, which allows the bracelet length to be adjusted with the push of a button to either remove or add metal links. Prefer a vintage look? The QuickSwitch system lets you swap between metal, calf, or alligator straps in seconds, also with the push of a button.
In a world obsessed with the next big thing, and in an industry constantly chasing trends, some houses stand apart. For a select few, like Cartier, their legacy endures through iconic timepieces. The Santos De Cartier doesn’t need to chase trends—it is history, reimagined and refined for generations to come.
Breitling has announced a sleek black version of its Superocean Heritage watch, one of the most attractive and versatile designs in its catalogue.
The Superocean Heritage collection was launched in 2007, itself a revamp of the brand’s original dive watch, from the 1950s.
The 2000s line was updated with modern materials and a contemporary movement, making it a popular option for anyone in the market for a retro-style dive watch—as well as a point of difference with the brand’s aviation-heavy catalogue.
There have been many Superoceans since, perhaps most memorably a limited edition in aid of the NHS during Covid, released at a time when the majority of the Swiss watch industry was shut down.
In contrast to that colourful model, the latest Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 comes with a black anthracite dial and a black ceramic bezel, giving it a modern, stealthy aesthetic.
As the name suggests, it uses the brand's B20 movement, an automatic calibre with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
The watch is available as a UK and Ireland exclusive, and is numbered “one of 500” on the case back.
Gavin Murphy, MD of Breitling UK, says, “The new monochromatic combination of an anthracite dial against a black ceramic bezel give the Superocean Heritage a contemporary and sophisticated look whilst maintaining its design cues from the 1950s”.
Originally published on Esquire UK
Panerai, the kings of the large statement wristwatch, has announced a stealthy all-black model that even it calls “understated elegance”.
The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica debuted during Miami Design Week, and features a matt black sandwich dial, a black sandblasted ceramic bezel and a titanium DLC case back.
The 44mm watch comes with what the brand calls “a comprehensive suite of functions”.
They include a central hour, GMT, and minute hands, a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 5 o’clock, and a date window at 3 o’clock.
“The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica encapsulates Panerai’s dedication to the concept of functional design. Since the beginning, our timepieces have been created to fulfil specific functions expressed through a very particular design,” says Jean-Marc Pontroué, the brand's CEO.
"Features such as the crown-protecting device and the dial luminosity, originally designed for functionality, have now become integral to the design of the Luminor. This contemporary timepiece, blending Swiss technical prowess and minimal Italian design, seamlessly aligns with the spirit of Design Miami.”
The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica, ref. PAM01674 is now available
Originally published on Esquire UK
No need for a double take—what you’re seeing isn’t the case back of the L'Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse but rather its face (or lack thereof). Parmigiani Fleurier's decision to omit the key components of what typically defines a watch—hands, markers, and the like—is a bold one, but it’s not without reason. This is the house’s dedication to preserving the purity of minute repeaters.
Amidst a symphony of hammers and gongs within the watch, a manual winding movement by Renaud Papi, offering a 72-hour power reserve, allows the L'Armoriale to tell time intimately through the resonant chime of cathedral gongs. Once you’ve understood that it’s a timepiece that prioritises auditory elegance, the absence of a traditional face begins to make perfect sense. It forces the user to treat the repeater as a core feature instead of a gimmick. Even then, the dial is far from an afterthought.
“In nature, every form, every pattern bears the imprint of perfection”
– Michel Parmigiani, founder and master watchmaker
From the elegant spirals of a pinecone to the precise proportions of the Great Pyramid of Giza, and even in the harmonious ratios of the human body—there are Fibonacci sequences everywhere for all with eyes to see. The L'Armoriale pays homage to this mathematical beauty on its faceless dial, which features a pastel green translucent enamel grand feu as its canvas for a meticulous guilloché pattern. Delicate engravings transpose the golden ratio of a pinecone onto the dial, creating a tangible manifestation of the Fibonacci sequence. A 42mm white gold case completes this ode to perfection, designed exclusively for this one-off model.
Turning the watch over reveals an unexpected surprise—instead of a traditional caseback, you'll find a secret dial. Rose gold hour and minute markers, denoted by "H" and "M", frame a disk of Guatemalan white jade. Its circular indices evoke the timeless elegance of an ancient Roman coin, an impression heightened by a taupe hand-stitched alligator leather strap. It might seem like a waste relegating such beauty to the back of the watch, but we feel this design choice imbues the piece with a sense of quiet introspection.
It’s not often that a watch packaging warrants discussion, but in this case, the box demands it. Offering more than mere protection, the box is engineered to enhance the minute repeater's acoustic properties, allowing owners to modulate the watch's resonance. By placing the timepiece at different points within the box, one can create a uniquely immersive sensory journey that goes beyond mere timekeeping.
Patek Philippe, the watchmaker’s watchmaker, did the unimaginable. It launched a new watch, the Cubitus. You might think, Well, that’s what watch brands are supposed to do, right? But Patek Philippe tends to plough its own furrow, content to release complications and elaborations of tried and tested families of watches. The last major design from the maker arrived in 1999, a full 25 years ago. That was the rectangular Twenty-4, the first ever Patek Philippe aimed squarely at women. The Aquanaut, a men’s design, debuted two years prior, in 1997. At the time, it was just as polarising as the Cubitus is now—as was the Nautilus when it hit the scene in the ‘70s.
But in the modern connected world, the Cubitus created—in what felt like a nanosecond—more than its fair share of collective consternation. It was as if Led Zeppelin had released a late hip-hop album. Pearl clutching ensued.
A lot was made of the passing resemblance to the Nautilus, the house’s groundbreaking and unexpected modernist left turn that emerged in 1976. Certainly, many features of the Cubitus are reminiscent of the Nautilus, from the horizontal grooved dial treatment to the case and the virtuoso combination of polished and brushed surfaces that (eventually) made the Nautilus such a hit.
Had the Cubitus borne no visual relation whatever to its famous predecessor, would that have been less jarring to watch fans? If you had a child and that child grew up to look uncannily like the next-door neighbour instead of you, you might well have a searching question or two. It’s reassuring, therefore, that there’s a strong family resemblance. It makes the Cubitus, you might say, a Prince William rather than a Harry, and the heir to a long line of sporty dress watches stretching back nearly half a century.
All the same, the Cubitus is in many ways a very different watch from its forebears. First is the scale, something that’s not really apparent until you slide it on your wrist. It measures a sizeable (for Patek Philippe) 45mm, the dimension measured diagonally across the face of the watch. But at only 8.3mm thick (in the steel versions), this is also a pretty flat watch, and its lightness on the wrist more than makes up for its width.
There are just three models in the line. The first two—a steel three-hander with a date window and deep green dial, a similarly uncomplicated version in steel and gold with a blue dial—come on integrated steel bracelets. The third, in a platinum case with a composite strap, offers instantaneous jumps of the date, day, and moon phases, with the latter two sharing a sub-dial next to a smaller seconds sub-dial.
Although all three watches have plenty to talk about, the green dial steel version, in particular, is our favourite. It’s a rich hue—almost black at some angles. Even in direct light, it’s deep, cold, and slatey. It’s a refreshing departure from trendier take on the colour.
As a paragon of watchmaking taste, Patek Philippe is, of course, damned if it does, damned if it doesn’t. But that was never a solid reason to do nothing. The Cubitus’s polarizing form represents—at least in the steel versions—a bold play for new, “entry-level” customers. Introducing new designs that may unsettle some (for a time) is the only surefire way to propagate a new generation of watch collectors just as doolally for Patek Philippe as their fathers before them.
To us, that’s the point. This is a watch for the future customers of Patek Philippe. For the rest of us, well, there’s never any harm in having one’s certainties rearranged from time to time.
Originally published on Esquire US
In the vast, unknowable expanse of the ocean, senses dull and time seems to ebb and flow with the currents. But this is where a diver’s connection to the seconds ticking away on their watch becomes profoundly intimate. This connection to land is where time remains a constant. When you are in an underwater environment, only the most reliable timepiece will suffice. Enter the next generation of TAG Heuer Aquaracer, the quintessential diving watch renowned for its unyielding durability and deep-water resistance. Two iterations will be released, the Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT.
Both feature a rotating ceramic bezel, allowing divers to track their elapsed time spent underwater. A screw-down crown creates an impenetrable seal against external elements, while the double safety clasp offers peace of mind for dives up to the watch’s 300m water-resistance limit. Additionally, the strap boasts an advanced adjustment system, adapting to every wrist with five adjustable positions.
Maya Gabeira and Kai Lenny are two of the biggest wave surfers in the world. As ambassadors for TAG Heuer, Lenny and Gabeira often don the Aquaracers when they are out at sea. Dependability is key. In the depths of both watches lies the COSC-certified TH31 automatic movement, which offers 80 hours of power reserve and a five-year extended warranty. However, a slight distinction exists between the models: the date model contains the TH31-00 calibre, while the model comes with the TH31-03 calibre, which—you guessed it—allows for an additional time-zone complication. Thanks to the TH31 movement, both ranges come equipped with a magnified date ticker at 6 o’clock.
Drawing from the ocean’s palette, both models will be available in black, blue or green. Reflections of the ocean waves are engrained into the dial, serving as a backdrop for the hands. Another mark of reliance in the Aquaracer is recognising the importance of legibility in the deep blue. TAG Heuer has designed an enlarged shield-shaped hour hand and sword-shaped minute hand, complemented by an orange seconds hand symbolising safety. Rhodium-plated hands and indexes, treated with Super-LumiNova, ensure visibility even in the darkest depths.
The new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT, TAG Heuer strikes a delicate balance between robust construction, precise timekeeping and thoughtful design. They aren’t just tool watches, they are in Lenny and Gabeira’s words, “constant companions”, especially when you venture the realm beneath the the TAG Heuer surface and into the ocean’s embrace.
From the bustling streets of Tokyo to the far corners of the globe, Seiko has been putting timepieces on our wrists for over 110 years. While watch brands are at a sprint towards horological hyper-accuracy, Seiko cruises in its own lane; preferring to dominate the realm of value. Yeah, a Seiko might not split hairs with its timekeeping precision but what it lacks in decimal places, it makes up for in sheer robustness and bang for your buck. Seiko is unleashing two reincarnations from its illustrious vault of vintage watches.
The limited-edition Seiko Sports 5 Heritage Design Recreation will fool even the old guard into thinking you’ve been winding crowns for a while. Taking its cues from a late ’60s crowd-pleaser, the watch is an in-house Calibre 4R36 automatic with legibility, teetering on the edge of perfection. Even in low-light conditions, the minute markers between each index and LumiBrite-treated hands, bezel and dial can be seen. ere’s also a day-date complication, with the day of the week spelt out for added convenience.
Perhaps the most underrated element, however, is the tri-fold clasp bracelet where the vintage spirit of the original model really shines through. If you’re feeling more classic, there’s the black leather rally-style strap tucked away in the box you can swap out with.
The Seiko 5 Sports Heritage is available in silver and black dial options.
Launched in the early ‘60s, King Seiko returns to claim its place in the spotlight of horological excellence. The new series takes the contours of its predecessor and integrates a multi-row bracelet that’s been mirror-polished and brushed to catch light. Its shorter links paired with the low centre of gravity of the 39mm case means amore comfortable fit.
At the heart of these royal timepieces beats Seiko’s automatic slimline Calibre6L35. Available in a trio of colours—silver, purple and green—this is a watch measuring a mere 9.9mm thick while still powering a date function.
A special limited-edition commemorative watch will be released to mark 100years since the word “Seiko” first appeared on a wristwatch dial. Featuring a light blue-green dial with a textured pattern reminiscent of dragon scales, only 700 Seiko pieces of it are available worldwide
Sinn’s story begins in 1961, not in a boardroom, but a cockpit of a World War II airplane. Its founder, Helmut Sinn, was a man from the skies—a former pilot and flight instructor whose experience beckoned him to create aviation watches that his contemporaries could rely on in the clouds. Luxury was never the end goal, rather, it was a means to an end. Functionality was always the priority, and he wanted a watch that could be easily serviced anywhere in the world. In addition to being durable, technical, innovative, this would eventually become a hallmark of the brand.
After more than 30 years at the helm, Sinn would sell the company. Enter Lothar Schmidt, a former engineer under IWC who pushed the brand into a new stratosphere of innovations. Tegiment technology, for instance, hardened the surface of Sinn watches, making them incredibly scratch-resistant. Hydro technology filled watches with oil, eliminating any distortion underwater and allowing for perfect legibility at any depth. Ar-dehumidifying technology used copper sulfate capsules to absorb moisture and prevent fogging in extreme situations. Sinn was no longer just an aviation watch brand, but a brand focused on creating mission-specific watches. Fire brigades have the Einsatzzeitmesser, astronauts have the Series 140, and even white collars have the Frankfurt Financial District watches. But now, there’s something special brewing for the Singaporean market.
In celebration of Watches of Switzerland’s 60th anniversary—Sinn’s exclusive retailer in Singapore—Sinn is unveiling a commemorative watch, the Sinn Pilot 104 St Sa I WOS Commemorative Edition. We sat down with Sarah Michel, head of sales at Sinn, to discuss the new release, Sinn’s approach to the Asian market, and how the brand continues to stay true to its philosophy and unique positioning.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Can you tell us about the special commemorative watch Sinn has created for Watches of Switzerland's 60th anniversary? What makes this watch unique?
SARAH MICHEL: You’ll notice a few unique features compared to the standard 104 series. We have a special dial with a color gradient starting light blue in the center and transitioning to a darker blue outward. This gradient is something we've incorporated in some of our special editions, and it's been really popular.
What's unique here is how the darker blue continues on the bezel inlay, in a colour we've never used before for the 104. The date indicator is also in blue, a nice touch to keep the design cohesive.
Functionally, it’s similar to the standard 104 model, with a double date display in both German and English, thanks to the Sellita 220 movement. For example, you can set it to display "Saturday" in English, or "Samstag" in German, depending on your preference. Each of the 200 pieces is individually engraved on the back, and it comes with a unique cow leather strap in light blue, complementing the dial.
ESQ: What were the key design elements or inspirations behind the commemorative watch?
SM: Well, the inspiration actually came more from the Watches of Switzerland team. They might be able to explain their specific inspiration for the blue color better.
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND REPRESENTATIVE: The inspiration for this watch’s colour combination came from wanting to create a cohesive theme for our limited editions. The theme we focused on was Singapore—specifically, tropical elements. So, we incorporated greenery, brown for the tree trunks, and blue for the water. For Sinn, we chose blue to represent water, which gives it that fresh, cooling vibe.
ESQ: If this watch could have a personality, how would you describe it?
SM: I think it's young and breezy. It has a carefree vibe, someone who likes to look good without trying too hard. That's the kind of person I could imagine wearing this watch.
ESQ: Sinn has a loyal following in Europe—how do you envision expanding that success in the Asian markets?
SM: We’re on a good trajectory. We already have sales partners across Southeast Asia and East Asia, and we look forward to expanding further. That said, we also want to deepen the partnerships we already have. Sinn watches are very technical, and not the easiest to understand immediately, so having knowledgeable partners who can explain the details is important. We want to grow in a sustainable way, ensuring high-quality sales experiences.
ESQ: Which specific Asian markets do you see as having the most potential for growth in the coming years? Why?
SM: I think time will tell where we’ll see the most growth in Asia. It’s too early to pinpoint one specific market right now.
ESQ: What are the key benefits of Sinn's partnership with The Hour Glass?
SM: The Hour Glass has a knowledgeable team with great market access and beautiful stores. They have well-trained staff who are passionate about watches. We’re very happy with our relationship with them and look forward to continuing it in the future.
ESQ: If Sinn were to sponsor a sport or competition, what would it be?
SM: We don’t usually sponsor celebrities or athletes to wear our watches. All the celebrities you see wearing Sinn watches have bought them on their own. We’ve had a presence at some sports events in Germany, mostly rally-related. For example, we’ll be at a rally event this week, as there’s a race car driver with a long history with the brand. However, any collaboration we do has to align with the Sinn DNA—like when a high-altitude jumper broke a world record wearing a Sinn watch.
ESQ: Why doesn’t Sinn sponsor competitions or celebrities?
SM: We’re still a small brand compared to others, and sponsoring can be expensive. Also, it doesn’t really fit our brand ethos. We prefer that people wear Sinn watches because they love them, not because we paid them to. We want our wearers to be passionate about the technology and design, not just celebrities doing it for money.
ESQ: In a hypothetical "Watchmaking Olympics," what events do you think Sinn would win gold in?
SM: (Laughs) Definitely in the extreme diving category! We’d have a great chance there with our UX model, which can go as deep as you can imagine—the watch will always go deeper than you. I’d also say we’d perform well in any piloting event, especially anything involving legibility during flights. If there were an event for timing loops while flying, Sinn watches would certainly be a top contender!
ESQ: What do you see are the biggest challenges facing the watch industry in the next decade?
SM: Well, we’re already seeing a bit of a challenge now. After the COVID period, which was actually a good time for watches because people were home and getting into collecting, we've had to adjust. Brands received a lot of attention during that time, and coming down from that high has been a bit of a reality check. Now, we need to work harder to keep people’s interest. We have to stay innovative, creating watches that continue to excite people and validate their passion for horology.
ESQ: And what about opportunities?
SM: There are plenty of opportunities! Online marketing, new forms of exhibitions, and different ways of sharing content—whether through social media, online retail, or even bespoke experiences in person—are all exciting areas. The key is finding your niche and creating unique experiences. It’s not about right or wrong; it’s about how focused and innovative you are in your approach.
ESQ: What do you think sets Sinn apart from other brands?
SM: I think it’s our commitment to practicality and precision. We don’t just make watches to look good, though of course, they do! We make them to serve a purpose, whether it’s for aviation, diving, or even niche fields like rescue operations. Our goal is to create a tool that can be relied on in extreme conditions, and that’s something that resonates with a lot of our customers. When you wear a Sinn, you’re wearing a piece of precision engineering.
We all know about bees, and how they're a keystone species because of the vital role they play in pollination. We also know about the disastrous consequences if they were to stop pollinating plants (shoutout Barry, I loved Bee Movie).
But let's talk about rhinos for a moment because they just don't get the attention they deserve. As a fellow keystone species, they play a crucial role in the structure and foundation of our ecosystem. Their presence alone supports biodiversity, promotes ecosystem health, and maintains balance. For example, every time a rhino rolls around in mud, it creates a natural waterhole that other animals rely on for drinking. Every time they feed on large amounts of grass, it helps prevent overgrowth, allowing smaller animals to feed. It also simultaneously reduces the risk of wildfires as dry grass can become fuel if left unchecked. You see the point—letting this species go extinct would be catastrophic.
This is where SORAI steps in. Otherwise known as Save Our Rhinos Africa and India, SORAI is a rhino conservation organisation founded by former international cricketer and Hublot ambassador Kevin Pietersen. As a "socially conscious enterprise", their aim is to bring people and businesses together to build a more sustainable approach to conservation. Since 2018, they've supported grassroots organisations that rescue abandoned, injured, and orphaned endangered species and rehabilitate them where possible.
Hublot recognises the importance of rhino conservation, so they're getting in on the action. They're partnering with SORAI once again to release the Spirit of Big Bang SORAI, a 30-piece limited-edition of the iconic tonneau-shaped hand-wound tourbillon. As the fourth collaborative watch between both entities, part of the proceeds from the watch's sales will be donated to the organisation as it continues fighting to protect the rhinos.
We catch up with Pietersen to learn more about SORAI's efforts, the story behind the new watch, and how the rest of us can pitch in to help these mystical beasts stick around for a few more millennia.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: SORAI has been making strides in rhino conservation since its inception, can you share a significant moment that ignited your commitment to found this organisation?
KEVIN PIETERSEN: There wasn’t a singular moment but it was just a generic continuation of all the conservation and awareness that I have been doing since 2013, because it was 2018 when SORAI started and when I launched the brand and thought of the brand, so it was just a stepping stone in a direction where we thought that we need to up our game in making sure that we continue to raise awareness and significant sums of money and get more people involved.
ESQ: Can you tell us about the most significant achievements of SORAI since its inception?
KP: Significant achievements so far, I don’t want to talk about SORAI, I don’t want to talk about Hublot. What I want to talk about is the fact that rhino poaching seems to be on the decline at the moment which is exactly why we started doing what we are doing and exactly why we are sitting here now, because of the incredible sums of money that has been raised, because of the targeted direction of where those funds go.
We’ve been very specific on what we spend our money on because we know that if you are specific and you work with trusted organisations and you funnel all the money in the right way, you will make a difference. If you just shoot a lot of money into the air and think, “Hey guys, go and enjoy yourselves” then that’s where you become stuck, especially in a country like South Africa. We have been very targeted on technology, on running the sanctuary, on education and kids. We’ve seen lots of success and when you talk about the rhino numbers coming down it makes you smile.
ESQ: What do you want the buyers of this watch to feel or understand about their purchase?
KP: The togetherness, the unity and the people. This is about the people, this is really about the men and women, the boys and girls that live in the area and are part of a huge responsibility in looking after a keystone species.
ESQ: How the proceeds of this watch allocated within SORAI’s initiatives?
KP: It’s for the people, education and technology. The first edition was for “Care for Wild”, that’s why this is so important because of the ability it gives us with the US dollar to convert it into Rands and US dollars goes a long way when it comes to Rands.
ESQ: How can everyday people contribute to the rhino conservation?
KP: We recently set up a SORAI Rangers Program which comes from the need to build a human fence. Everybody around the world can in some way shape a form and feel they can make a difference. So we set up a subscription program where people can subscribe for as little as one pound a month and they can feel like they are a part of the human fence no matter where they live and that goes at an incredibly long way in helping us protect these keystone species.
If someone handed me a pen and asked me to sketch the most majestic, elegant, and imperial-looking watch I could imagine, I wouldn’t—frankly, because I can’t draw. But if I were to describe it, it would probably look something like this Datograph Handwerkskunst from A. Lange & Söhne.
Hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap, a deployant buckle, a case made from 18-karat yellow gold contrasted by a black-rhodiumed dial, Roman numeral-inspired indices, an intricate movement composed of 426 parts, and a flyback chronograph. This is A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Handwerkskunst, a timepiece so dreamy it had me daydreaming of hypothetical situations. The features highlighted would typically be touted as the key selling points of any watch, but I haven’t even touched on the most interesting aspects of this one yet.
Comprising of 426 parts and 43 jewels, the Lange manufacture calibre L951.8 is a manually wound movement that aptly represents the pinnacle of A. Lange & Söhne’s meticulousness and artistry. Assembled and decorated entirely by hand, the calibre’s architecture features black-polished chronograph levers. This rare, time-consuming technique causes the surface to reflect light only from specific angles, appearing jet black at times, and glossy at others. The hand-engraved balance cock, adorned with a delicate vine motif, rises subtly from the surface, setting the mood for the rest of the movement. The untreated German silver plates and bridges contribute to a sense of organic growth within the movement. Would it be remiss to suggest that the overall architecture of the movement is reminiscent of intertwining vines? You can be the judge of that by examining the caseback, where every polish, grain, and engravement is showcased, revealing the hard work of the artisans’.
This movement powers a 60-hour power reserve and a flyback chronograph with a precise jumping minute counter, allowing for seamless resets and efficient timing adjustments. The outsize date display, a signature of the house creates an elegant symmetry so pleasing it could bring tears to Leonardo da Vinci’s eye. All this can be adjusted through a crown for winding and setting, two chronograph buttons, and a button for rapid correction of the outsize date.
Immediately, the surface of the black-rhodiumed dial is what draws eyes. Brought to life by an intricate tremblage engraving—a historical technique practised by very few artisans due to the years of training required—it creates a fine-grained, 3D texture that captures and reflects light in subtle ways, lending the 41mm timepiece a certain air of mystery rarely seen in modern watchmaking.
As the eighth model in A. Lange & Söhne's special HANDWERKSKUNST series, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, but it makes sense. I’ll let Anthony de Haas, Director Product Development explain, “Manually executed with the highest degree of precision, the decorations and finishing exhibit aesthetics that no machine in the whole world could possibly achieve.”
Do you smell the scent of burning rubber on asphalt? Do you hear the sounds of powerful jets roaring through the sky? If you think about it, these sensations aren’t just noise, they’re the essence of the mechanical marvel of human achievements. Bell & Ross, inspired by this, are releasing a duet of watches—BR-X5 Racing and BR-03 Horizon—that mimic the powerful machines that dominate both land and sky, bringing the spirit of high-speed racing and aviation directly to your wrist.
On the ground, the BR-X5 Racing takes center stage—an automatic timepiece that draws inspiration from the dashboards of racing cars. Just as horological precision is king in the world of high-performance racing, the central seconds hand of the model features a “checkerboard” type graduation, capable of slicing time down to a quarter of a second. Echoing the DNA of supercars, the watch uses a featherlight woven carbon plate integrated into a robust titanium body. All this is packed into a 41mm case that protects the COSC certified in-house BR-CAL.323 caliber. And because Bell & Ross are so confident of this movement, they’ve guaranteed 5 years of precision and reliability. There’s no sense in hiding it either, so it's on display through a large, tinted window in the middle of the dial, as well as through an open caseback.
The power reserve indicator located at 9 o’clock is particularly interesting. Once 70 hours is up and the needle moves from the indicator marked with “F” for full, to “E” for empty, you’ll know it's time to wind the watch again. With only 500 limited pieces floating around the market, the watch probably won’t make you drive any faster, but it could certainly make you feel like you could.
Look up, the BR-03 Horizon might just be soaring overhead. Similar to its racing counterpart, the watch lifts the design elements of a dashboard in the cockpit of an aircraft. There’s a slight twist though, the dial mimics an earth-and-sky concept: the upper blue area represents the sky, while the darker lower half represents the earth. A large white hand indicates the minutes, while a black and white striped one marks the seconds. What makes this watch stand out from others, however, is how the dial rotates, doubling as an hour hand through a large central indicator arrow. The BR-03 Horizon not only improves on what was thought possible for legibility in a watch, but completely reinvents it.
Encased in micro-blasted black ceramic, the watch houses the BR.CAL-327 automatic movement, offering a power reserve of 54 hours. With only 999 pieces available, the chances of one actually flying overhead is likely slim to none. But don’t rule out the possibility of another Bell & Ross timepiece ticking away on the wrist of the pilot on your next flight. After all, this is just one of their many “instrument watches” that continue to push the boundaries of aviation timekeeping—but you probably already knew that.
