Sinn’s story begins in 1961, not in a boardroom, but a cockpit of a World War II airplane. Its founder, Helmut Sinn, was a man from the skies—a former pilot and flight instructor whose experience beckoned him to create aviation watches that his contemporaries could rely on in the clouds. Luxury was never the end goal, rather, it was a means to an end. Functionality was always the priority, and he wanted a watch that could be easily serviced anywhere in the world. In addition to being durable, technical, innovative, this would eventually become a hallmark of the brand.
After more than 30 years at the helm, Sinn would sell the company. Enter Lothar Schmidt, a former engineer under IWC who pushed the brand into a new stratosphere of innovations. Tegiment technology, for instance, hardened the surface of Sinn watches, making them incredibly scratch-resistant. Hydro technology filled watches with oil, eliminating any distortion underwater and allowing for perfect legibility at any depth. Ar-dehumidifying technology used copper sulfate capsules to absorb moisture and prevent fogging in extreme situations. Sinn was no longer just an aviation watch brand, but a brand focused on creating mission-specific watches. Fire brigades have the Einsatzzeitmesser, astronauts have the Series 140, and even white collars have the Frankfurt Financial District watches. But now, there’s something special brewing for the Singaporean market.
In celebration of Watches of Switzerland’s 60th anniversary—Sinn’s exclusive retailer in Singapore—Sinn is unveiling a commemorative watch, the Sinn Pilot 104 St Sa I WOS Commemorative Edition. We sat down with Sarah Michel, head of sales at Sinn, to discuss the new release, Sinn’s approach to the Asian market, and how the brand continues to stay true to its philosophy and unique positioning.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Can you tell us about the special commemorative watch Sinn has created for Watches of Switzerland's 60th anniversary? What makes this watch unique?
SARAH MICHEL: You’ll notice a few unique features compared to the standard 104 series. We have a special dial with a color gradient starting light blue in the center and transitioning to a darker blue outward. This gradient is something we've incorporated in some of our special editions, and it's been really popular.
What's unique here is how the darker blue continues on the bezel inlay, in a colour we've never used before for the 104. The date indicator is also in blue, a nice touch to keep the design cohesive.
Functionally, it’s similar to the standard 104 model, with a double date display in both German and English, thanks to the Sellita 220 movement. For example, you can set it to display "Saturday" in English, or "Samstag" in German, depending on your preference. Each of the 200 pieces is individually engraved on the back, and it comes with a unique cow leather strap in light blue, complementing the dial.
ESQ: What were the key design elements or inspirations behind the commemorative watch?
SM: Well, the inspiration actually came more from the Watches of Switzerland team. They might be able to explain their specific inspiration for the blue color better.
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND REPRESENTATIVE: The inspiration for this watch’s colour combination came from wanting to create a cohesive theme for our limited editions. The theme we focused on was Singapore—specifically, tropical elements. So, we incorporated greenery, brown for the tree trunks, and blue for the water. For Sinn, we chose blue to represent water, which gives it that fresh, cooling vibe.
ESQ: If this watch could have a personality, how would you describe it?
SM: I think it's young and breezy. It has a carefree vibe, someone who likes to look good without trying too hard. That's the kind of person I could imagine wearing this watch.
ESQ: Sinn has a loyal following in Europe—how do you envision expanding that success in the Asian markets?
SM: We’re on a good trajectory. We already have sales partners across Southeast Asia and East Asia, and we look forward to expanding further. That said, we also want to deepen the partnerships we already have. Sinn watches are very technical, and not the easiest to understand immediately, so having knowledgeable partners who can explain the details is important. We want to grow in a sustainable way, ensuring high-quality sales experiences.
ESQ: Which specific Asian markets do you see as having the most potential for growth in the coming years? Why?
SM: I think time will tell where we’ll see the most growth in Asia. It’s too early to pinpoint one specific market right now.
ESQ: What are the key benefits of Sinn's partnership with The Hour Glass?
SM: The Hour Glass has a knowledgeable team with great market access and beautiful stores. They have well-trained staff who are passionate about watches. We’re very happy with our relationship with them and look forward to continuing it in the future.
ESQ: If Sinn were to sponsor a sport or competition, what would it be?
SM: We don’t usually sponsor celebrities or athletes to wear our watches. All the celebrities you see wearing Sinn watches have bought them on their own. We’ve had a presence at some sports events in Germany, mostly rally-related. For example, we’ll be at a rally event this week, as there’s a race car driver with a long history with the brand. However, any collaboration we do has to align with the Sinn DNA—like when a high-altitude jumper broke a world record wearing a Sinn watch.
ESQ: Why doesn’t Sinn sponsor competitions or celebrities?
SM: We’re still a small brand compared to others, and sponsoring can be expensive. Also, it doesn’t really fit our brand ethos. We prefer that people wear Sinn watches because they love them, not because we paid them to. We want our wearers to be passionate about the technology and design, not just celebrities doing it for money.
ESQ: In a hypothetical "Watchmaking Olympics," what events do you think Sinn would win gold in?
SM: (Laughs) Definitely in the extreme diving category! We’d have a great chance there with our UX model, which can go as deep as you can imagine—the watch will always go deeper than you. I’d also say we’d perform well in any piloting event, especially anything involving legibility during flights. If there were an event for timing loops while flying, Sinn watches would certainly be a top contender!
ESQ: What do you see are the biggest challenges facing the watch industry in the next decade?
SM: Well, we’re already seeing a bit of a challenge now. After the COVID period, which was actually a good time for watches because people were home and getting into collecting, we've had to adjust. Brands received a lot of attention during that time, and coming down from that high has been a bit of a reality check. Now, we need to work harder to keep people’s interest. We have to stay innovative, creating watches that continue to excite people and validate their passion for horology.
ESQ: And what about opportunities?
SM: There are plenty of opportunities! Online marketing, new forms of exhibitions, and different ways of sharing content—whether through social media, online retail, or even bespoke experiences in person—are all exciting areas. The key is finding your niche and creating unique experiences. It’s not about right or wrong; it’s about how focused and innovative you are in your approach.
ESQ: What do you think sets Sinn apart from other brands?
SM: I think it’s our commitment to practicality and precision. We don’t just make watches to look good, though of course, they do! We make them to serve a purpose, whether it’s for aviation, diving, or even niche fields like rescue operations. Our goal is to create a tool that can be relied on in extreme conditions, and that’s something that resonates with a lot of our customers. When you wear a Sinn, you’re wearing a piece of precision engineering.
We all know about bees, and how they're a keystone species because of the vital role they play in pollination. We also know about the disastrous consequences if they were to stop pollinating plants (shoutout Barry, I loved Bee Movie).
But let's talk about Rhinos for a moment because they just don't get the attention they deserve. As a fellow keystone species, they play a crucial role in the structure and foundation of our ecosystem. Their presence alone supports biodiversity, promotes ecosystem health, and maintains balance. For example, every time a rhino rolls around in mud, it creates a natural waterhole that other animals rely on for drinking. Every time they feed on large amounts of grass, it helps prevent overgrowth, allowing smaller animals to feed. It also simultaneously reduces the risk of wildfires as dry grass can become fuel if left unchecked. You see the point—letting this species go extinct would be catastrophic.
This is where SORAI steps in. Otherwise known as Save Our Rhinos Africa and India, SORAI is a rhino conservation organisation founded by former international cricketer and Hublot ambassador Kevin Pietersen. As a "socially conscious enterprise", their aim is to bring people and businesses together to build a more sustainable approach to conservation. Since 2018, they've supported grassroots organisations that rescue abandoned, injured, and orphaned endangered species and rehabilitate them where possible.
Hublot recognises the importance of rhino conservation, so they're getting in on the action. They're partnering with SORAI once again to release the Spirit of Big Bang SORAI, a 30-piece limited-edition of the iconic tonneau-shaped hand-wound tourbillon. As the fourth collaborative watch between both entities, part of the proceeds from the watch's sales will be donated to the organisation as it continues fighting to protect the rhinos.
We catch up with Pietersen to learn more about SORAI's efforts, the story behind the new watch, and how the rest of us can pitch in to help these mystical beasts stick around for a few more millennia.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: SORAI has been making strides in rhino conservation since its inception, can you share a significant moment that ignited your commitment to found this organisation?
KEVIN PIETERSEN: There wasn’t a singular moment but it was just a generic continuation of all the conservation and awareness that I have been doing since 2013, because it was 2018 when SORAI started and when I launched the brand and thought of the brand, so it was just a stepping stone in a direction where we thought that we need to up our game in making sure that we continue to raise awareness and significant sums of money and get more people involved.
ESQ: Can you tell us about the most significant achievements of SORAI since its inception?
KP: Significant achievements so far, I don’t want to talk about SORAI, I don’t want to talk about Hublot. What I want to talk about is the fact that rhino poaching seems to be on the decline at the moment which is exactly why we started doing what we are doing and exactly why we are sitting here now, because of the incredible sums of money that has been raised, because of the targeted direction of where those funds go.
We’ve been very specific on what we spend our money on because we know that if you are specific and you work with trusted organisations and you funnel all the money in the right way, you will make a difference. If you just shoot a lot of money into the air and think, “Hey guys, go and enjoy yourselves” then that’s where you become stuck, especially in a country like South Africa. We have been very targeted on technology, on running the sanctuary, on education and kids. We’ve seen lots of success and when you talk about the rhino numbers coming down it makes you smile.
ESQ: What do you want the buyers of this watch to feel or understand about their purchase?
KP: The togetherness, the unity and the people. This is about the people, this is really about the men and women, the boys and girls that live in the area and are part of a huge responsibility in looking after a keystone species.
ESQ: How the proceeds of this watch allocated within SORAI’s initiatives?
KP: It’s for the people, education and technology. The first edition was for “Care for Wild”, that’s why this is so important because of the ability it gives us with the US dollar to convert it into Rands and US dollars goes a long way when it comes to Rands.
ESQ: How can everyday people contribute to the rhino conservation?
KP: We recently set up a SORAI Rangers Program which comes from the need to build a human fence. Everybody around the world can in some way shape a form and feel they can make a difference. So we set up a subscription program where people can subscribe for as little as one pound a month and they can feel like they are a part of the human fence no matter where they live and that goes at an incredibly long way in helping us protect these keystone species.
If someone handed me a pen and asked me to sketch the most majestic, elegant, and imperial-looking watch I could imagine, I wouldn’t—frankly, because I can’t draw. But if I were to describe it, it would probably look something like this Datograph Handwerkskunst from A. Lange & Söhne.
Hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap, a deployant buckle, a case made from 18-karat yellow gold contrasted by a black-rhodiumed dial, Roman numeral-inspired indices, an intricate movement composed of 426 parts, and a flyback chronograph. This is A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Handwerkskunst, a timepiece so dreamy it had me daydreaming of hypothetical situations. The features highlighted would typically be touted as the key selling points of any watch, but I haven’t even touched on the most interesting aspects of this one yet.
Comprising of 426 parts and 43 jewels, the Lange manufacture calibre L951.8 is a manually wound movement that aptly represents the pinnacle of A. Lange & Söhne’s meticulousness and artistry. Assembled and decorated entirely by hand, the calibre’s architecture features black-polished chronograph levers. This rare, time-consuming technique causes the surface to reflect light only from specific angles, appearing jet black at times, and glossy at others. The hand-engraved balance cock, adorned with a delicate vine motif, rises subtly from the surface, setting the mood for the rest of the movement. The untreated German silver plates and bridges contribute to a sense of organic growth within the movement. Would it be remiss to suggest that the overall architecture of the movement is reminiscent of intertwining vines? You can be the judge of that by examining the caseback, where every polish, grain, and engravement is showcased, revealing the hard work of the artisans’.
This movement powers a 60-hour power reserve and a flyback chronograph with a precise jumping minute counter, allowing for seamless resets and efficient timing adjustments. The outsize date display, a signature of the house creates an elegant symmetry so pleasing it could bring tears to Leonardo da Vinci’s eye. All this can be adjusted through a crown for winding and setting, two chronograph buttons, and a button for rapid correction of the outsize date.
Immediately, the surface of the black-rhodiumed dial is what draws eyes. Brought to life by an intricate tremblage engraving—a historical technique practised by very few artisans due to the years of training required—it creates a fine-grained, 3D texture that captures and reflects light in subtle ways, lending the 41mm timepiece a certain air of mystery rarely seen in modern watchmaking.
As the eighth model in A. Lange & Söhne's special HANDWERKSKUNST series, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, but it makes sense. I’ll let Anthony de Haas, Director Product Development explain, “Manually executed with the highest degree of precision, the decorations and finishing exhibit aesthetics that no machine in the whole world could possibly achieve.”
Do you smell the scent of burning rubber on asphalt? Do you hear the sounds of powerful jets roaring through the sky? If you think about it, these sensations aren’t just noise, they’re the essence of the mechanical marvel of human achievements. Bell & Ross, inspired by this, are releasing a duet of watches—BR-X5 Racing and BR-03 Horizon—that mimic the powerful machines that dominate both land and sky, bringing the spirit of high-speed racing and aviation directly to your wrist.
On the ground, the BR-X5 Racing takes center stage—an automatic timepiece that draws inspiration from the dashboards of racing cars. Just as horological precision is king in the world of high-performance racing, the central seconds hand of the model features a “checkerboard” type graduation, capable of slicing time down to a quarter of a second. Echoing the DNA of supercars, the watch uses a featherlight woven carbon plate integrated into a robust titanium body. All this is packed into a 41mm case that protects the COSC certified in-house BR-CAL.323 caliber. And because Bell & Ross are so confident of this movement, they’ve guaranteed 5 years of precision and reliability. There’s no sense in hiding it either, so it's on display through a large, tinted window in the middle of the dial, as well as through an open caseback.
The power reserve indicator located at 9 o’clock is particularly interesting. Once 70 hours is up and the needle moves from the indicator marked with “F” for full, to “E” for empty, you’ll know it's time to wind the watch again. With only 500 limited pieces floating around the market, the watch probably won’t make you drive any faster, but it could certainly make you feel like you could.
Look up, the BR-03 Horizon might just be soaring overhead. Similar to its racing counterpart, the watch lifts the design elements of a dashboard in the cockpit of an aircraft. There’s a slight twist though, the dial mimics an earth-and-sky concept: the upper blue area represents the sky, while the darker lower half represents the earth. A large white hand indicates the minutes, while a black and white striped one marks the seconds. What makes this watch stand out from others, however, is how the dial rotates, doubling as an hour hand through a large central indicator arrow. The BR-03 Horizon not only improves on what was thought possible for legibility in a watch, but completely reinvents it.
Encased in micro-blasted black ceramic, the watch houses the BR.CAL-327 automatic movement, offering a power reserve of 54 hours. With only 999 pieces available, the chances of one actually flying overhead is likely slim to none. But don’t rule out the possibility of another Bell & Ross timepiece ticking away on the wrist of the pilot on your next flight. After all, this is just one of their many “instrument watches” that continue to push the boundaries of aviation timekeeping—but you probably already knew that.
TAG Heuer's frequent collaborations with Porsche have made the two brands nearly synonymous. Given its name, I initially assumed the TAG Heuer Carrera series was probably an existing collaboration with Porsche. I later discovered that the name “Carrera” really originated from the legendary Carrera Panamericana Road Race in Mexico, once considered the most demanding and dangerous road race in the world. With such high expectations to live up to, it makes sense why the Carrera timepieces are renowned for their durability and performance in the motorsports world. TAG Heuer is now reimagining its Carrera Extreme Sport series with the introduction of two striking new models, a chronograph and a tourbillon variation.
The new models in the series share a cohesive design in its DNA, featuring integrated rubber straps inspired by the air intake systems of racing cars. The redesigned case, now reduced in diameter, integrates a single container with two barrels on the side. Its skeletonised dial is accentuated with bold black lines that remind the eyes of a car’s rim, while the dial disk has been redesigned to include an open-worked date disc. Both the hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring visibility even during those late-night drives.
Leading the lineup is the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, which boasts a 44mm grade-2 titanium case, available in four distinct colourways. The vibrant orange colourway draws inspiration from the heat of the racetrack, while the blue variant pays homage to TAG Heuer’s signature colour. For those with a more refined taste, there's a monochromatic black option. The final chronograph combines titanium, ceramic, and 18K 5N rose gold for a look that feels both luxurious and sporty. The engine powering the watch is the TH20-00 in-house caliber, which delivers an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, on the other hand, feels like the more sophisticated sibling of the two. Powered by the TH20-09 in-house caliber, this model offers a shorter power reserve at 65-hours but a vertical clutch and column wheel propels a bidirectional automatic rewinding system. This allows the watch to wind efficiently with minimal movement and ensures a longer lifespan by evenly distributing wear and tear across its components.
Coming in similarly at a leaner 44mm case, two striking variations will be on offer: a sleek all-black and luxurious gold and titanium version. The black model features a forged carbon tachymeter bezel, known for its scratch resistance, and rhodium-plated indices for enhanced reflectivity. Conversely, the gold and titanium version showcases an 18K 5N rose gold case and bezel, fortified with a black DLC-coated titanium container. Its indices are rose gold plated, striking a delicate balance between elegance and masculinity. Both versions feature a skeletonised dial that reveals the complexity of the tourbillon and movement that delivers a water resistance of up to 100 metres.
“We don’t sell watches, we sell art pieces,” is what CEO of BOVET, Pascal Raffy told me over lunch at the BOVET Story Exhibition. And for years, that's exactly what they've done—creating timepieces so exquisite you'd be forgiven for thinking they belong in a museum rather than on your wrist. This focus on artistry is precisely why everyday-wear timepieces are a rarity for the brand. However, after years of requests from collectors and customers, Raffy finally decided to break tradition with a daily timepiece that somehow manages to still retain that air of artistry. Introducing the Récital 12, BOVET's first-ever bracelet timepiece.
Two years. That's how long BOVET spent researching and developing a bracelet that would meet the house’s standards. Crafted from grade 5 titanium—a material known for its strength and corrosion resistance—the watch is not only durable but also remarkably lightweight. Its density is only 60 per cent of stainless-steel, making it weigh nearly half of a hypothetical stainless-steel counterpart. But now, onto the main selling point.
The subtle lustre and smooth finish of the bracelet lends a sophisticated look to the timepiece. It features a V-shaped design, borrowing from the “V” in BOVET which contours the wrist, creating a slimming effect. Interestingly, when the clasps are folded, it forms an infinity symbol.
The links are engineered to move independently and feature an expansion mechanism allowing up to 3mm of adjustability throughout the day, ensuring a perfect drape on any wrist.
They say the eyes are the window to the soul, but the Récital 12 lays its soul bare for all to see. The 13BMDR12C2 calibre is a brand-new movement that’s been flipped on its belly to bring the intricate mechanics typically hidden on the caseback to the forefront. With a power reserve of seven days or 168 hours and a sweeping arched power indicator at 12 o'clock, the movement is both capable and visually striking.
At a glance, the face of the timepiece looks pretty convoluted, but closer inspection reveals a balanced horizontal symmetry within the inner workings of the Récital 12. The hour and minute hands rest on a dial that stands alone like an island—which are available in dark blue, emerald green, or turquoise lacquered guilloché.
As a testament to Raffy's vision of BOVET watches as wearable art pieces, the three-pronged seconds wheel breaks convention by sitting outside the dial among the exposed gear wheels at 9 o'clock. This deliberate deconstruction of traditional watch design elements creates a visual dialogue, leaving room for artistic interpretations—but I’ll leave that for you to ponder its meaning.
Felipe Pantone, who cut his teeth spray-painting walls as a pre-teen graffiti artist has become a global sensation for his bold, kinetic creations. His signature style, characterised by vibrant colour gradients, geometric shapes, and optical illusions that seem to vibrate and move with the viewer’s perspective has now found its way onto a new canvas: the ZENITH DEFY Skyline Tourbillon.
Limited to a mere 100 pieces, the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone retains pretty much everything you loved from the original model, but with a few twists. It features a 41mm octagonal stainless steel case and showcases a tourbillon mechanism with a lightning bolt bridge—a recurring motif in Pantone's art—executed in a stunning gradient of metallic rainbow tones. The watch dial, crafted from sapphire, displays a micro-engraved pattern that creates a moiré visual effect, adding to its hallucinogenic nature. Then again, time itself is a dizzying concept, so this piece makes a fitting tribute.
In this interview with Pantone, we delve into the mind of one of contemporary art’s most daring innovators and discover how he transforms a timepiece into a kinetic masterpiece.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: What were the biggest challenges and rewards of this collaborative process?
FELIPE PANTONE: One of the biggest challenges was finding the perfect balance between honouring the technical mastery of Zenith and infusing it with my artistic vision. Watchmaking is a field steeped in tradition, and pushing boundaries within that framework required a lot of careful consideration. However, the reward was immense—seeing a concept that originated in my mind take shape in such a finely crafted, functional object. It’s not just art you can see, but art you can wear and experience in a very personal way.
ESQ: What do you hope the watch will evoke in people who wear it?
FP: I hope it serves as a reminder of the dynamic, ever-changing world we live in. The watch is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of energy, transformation, and the blending of past and future. I want people to feel a sense of movement, not just in the mechanics of the watch, but in their own lives as they navigate through time.
ESQ: How did you balance personal expression with the commercial expectations of the watch industry?
FP: Balancing personal expression with commercial expectations is always a tightrope walk. But I see it as a challenge that can lead to innovation. For this project, I focused on how my style could complement the craftsmanship of Zenith, rather than overshadow it. The key was to stay true to my aesthetic while also respecting the heritage and precision that Zenith is known for. It’s about creating a dialogue between art and industry, where both can thrive.
ESQ: Can you describe a eureka moment you had during the design process?
FP: The eureka moment for me was when I realised how to integrate the lightning bolt motif into the tourbillon bridge. It’s a recurring element in my work that symbolizes energy and speed, and it fit perfectly into the watch’s design language. This wasn’t just a visual enhancement—it was a conceptual bridge between my art and the intricate mechanics of watchmaking. That moment was like seeing two worlds come together seamlessly.
ESQ: Are there any other mediums you'd like to explore in the future?
FP: Absolutely, I’m always looking to push the boundaries of where my art can go. Architecture and interior design are already in my sights with Casa Axis, but I’m also fascinated by virtual and augmented reality. These are mediums that allow for an entirely new kind of interaction with art—one that can be immersive and multi-sensory. It’s the next frontier for blending the digital with the physical in a way that challenges perceptions.
ESQ: How do you overcome creative blocks?
FP: I find that stepping away from the work and immersing myself in other forms of creativity often helps. Whether it’s listening to music, traveling, or even just spending time in nature, these experiences tend to unlock something in my mind. Sometimes the solution isn’t to push through the block but to change your perspective until the path forward becomes clear again.
ESQ: What book, film, or piece of music has had a profound impact on you recently?
FP: Roxy Music’s "In Every Dream Home a Heartache" has been on my mind a lot lately. The song starts off as a reflection on materialism and the hollow pursuit of perfection, but then it takes an unexpected, almost eerie twist. That shift from something seemingly mundane to something profoundly unsettling is fascinating to me. It’s a reminder that what we see on the surface is often just a façade, and that the deeper layers are where the real story lies. That kind of unexpected transformation is something I strive to capture in my own work.
The DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone is limited to 100 pieces that will be available from ZENITH online and physical boutiques, as well as with select retailers, worldwide from 12 September at 14:00 CEST
When, last year, customs officers at Los Angeles Airport spotted a number of small packages marked "bracelet’, "decoration" and "wall clock", their suspicions were aroused. And, rightly so. Opening them, they found USD1.3m worth of watches: Panerais, Patek Philippes, Omegas and lots of Rolexes. Or, at least, that’s what they would have cost had they been real. In fact, all 41 of the watches were fakes.
They also represent just a tiny fraction of the global trade in counterfeit watches, sales of which boomed over the pandemic, as the bored or comfortably-off looked online to fulfil their horological cravings. Figures are hard to rely on but upwards of an estimated 40 million fakes are circulated every year, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, some 25 per cent more than the Swiss watch industry produces itself.
Those fakes make for a business worth USD3 billion dollars a year—with a record year of 2013 seeing 90,000 fakes confiscated in Dubai alone, the city the Federation identifies as one of the key strategic storage hubs through which fakes are then exported internationally in those many small packages. Watches now account for between 20 and 35 per cent of all sales of counterfeit consumer goods—that’s despite them being illegal in most countries.
Not that this seems to dissuade anyone buying a fake. Or those who manufacture them—mostly in China, Hong Kong, Singapore and, chasing cheaper labour, increasingly Vietnam and Thailand—often on sophisticated factory lines also making legitimate parts for the legitimate watch industry. They’ll take an order for so many “Rolex-style” cases, for example, as they would for any other watch component. Bit by bit these various components come together at various locations and, at some nebulous point involving the application of brand names, a look-a-like becomes a counterfeit and a criminal matter.
“The battle against the counterfeit watch market is very hard to win. It’s really about reducing their visibility as much as possible, about intervening on a diplomatic and political level,” says Yves Bugmann, president of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. “Counterfeiters want to benefit from the value that often world-famous watch brands have created, and people want to access a certain social prestige that counterfeits present. But while some of them we just can’t influence, we find quite a lot do respond to a good argument.”
The problem is, perhaps, that no one of these arguments is a killer. Those countering the counterfeiters speak, for example, of the risk of buyers exposing themselves to malware, or to having their credit card details stolen—this does happen but the sophistication of the online marketplace, and the guarantees that underpin it, make this increasingly unlikely.
They speak too of the poor quality of counterfeit watches: the cheap metals, the likelihood of them lasting not long at all, their inability to fool anyone that they’re the genuine article. But that was then. We’re now in the era of the so-called “super- fake”, even of the ultra-fake. The counterfeiters’ embracing of the latest manufacturing technologies, from CNC machines to 3D printers, means the top-notch counterfeit today is all but indistinguishable from the real thing, at least to the naked eye of a non-expert. Knowledge accumulated over time means the fakers have only got better, and faster, at what they do. That’s concerning when, it’s been argued, the less distinguishable a fake watch becomes from the original, the more consumers become unwilling to pay the premium for the real thing.
Pre-owned watch dealer Watchfinder & Co noted in a 2023 report that five years ago 80 per cent of counterfeit watches sent into its stores were easily identified as fake, with 20 per cent needing closer inspection. Now those figures have been reversed. Of course, this is an aesthetic judgment, a question perhaps of less-than-perfect finishing; the counterfeit may still be well-made and contain a dependable movement, but it will lack the technology—in terms of materials and movement—of the genuine article. Some fakes can only be spotted in being handled—the hand-setting is off, or in daylight the colour isn’t quite right—which is no good to the online buyer.
“The fact is though that the counterfeiters’ emphasis is on the look of the watch because that’s all the guy who buys a counterfeit really cares about,” explains Fabrice Gueroux, author of Real & Fake Watches and an independent authenticator for many high-rolling collectors. “Yes, you can sometimes close your eyes and hold a counterfeit in your hands and there’s something that doesn’t feel right about it, but you need deep knowledge of the genuine watch for that and, of course, that’s what most people don’t have. With enough time even the best fake shows itself, and the best ones have put in the extra time on the paintwork, the fonts, the bracelet. But even I’m surprised by just how good a counterfeit can now be”.
That, he explains, is down to two factors. On the one hand, Gueroux laments, “the quality of some Swiss watches is not as high as is always claimed—so the borderline difference in quality between counterfeit and genuine watch can make spotting those counterfeits the hardest. With some brands [typically those seeking an especially high margin] the quality of the counterfeits is actually better...”
On the other hand, counterfeiters—and he says there are five mega-factories in China that collectively dominate counterfeiting, and which are known to make many millions of fake watches every year—used to have little competition and few, closely protected distribution channels. Now they have lots of competition and the internet has blown the market wide open, necessarily pushing quality up.
“Sure, many people buy a counterfeit because they just want the same look at the best quality for the cheapest price,” says Gueroux, “and they know that the real thing would cost, say, USD20,000. But then that person sells that watch on as ‘genuine’ and prices it accordingly to be convincing. And so on, such that there are so many good counterfeits [passing as genuine] on the market now.”
As for those Swiss makers still at the top of their games, they’re left facing off their counterfeiters, locked in an unending arms race of serial numbers, hallmarks, engravings and holograms—and, eventually, their inevitable copies too. “[And while] there are a lot of technical anti-counterfeiting and traceability measures now being used and developed,” notes Bugmann, “ultimately they’re of no use if the consumer deliberately wants to buy a fake”.
It does make the Swiss industry rightly worried about buyers being duped with, say, a dodgy IWC or Hublot though. And the most well- heeled and well-connected buyer can fall foul: the Brazilian footballer Neymar, rapper Little Baby and musician John Mayer have all bought watches they only later found out were counterfeit, leading to legal action in some cases.
Even brands and expert valuers can be conned: the most expensive Omega ever sold at auction, a supposed 1957 Speedmaster sold for USD3.4 million by Philips to Omega in 2021, turned out to be a so-called “Frankenwatch”, put together using parts from various vintage watches. Embarrassment perhaps prevents other stories of being duped from circulating; or, perhaps, people are just not duped in this way all that often.
Watchfinder & Co suggests that one in five watch buyers have been victims of purchasing a fake watch, the kind of figures, no doubt, that incentivised Rolex to take ownership of the problem by launching its own certified pre-owned programme in 2022. Of course, many other buyers—the small majority, according to one study—know full well that they are buying a fake watch. After all, the vast majority of fakes—Rolexes with quartz movements and the like—are still obviously so.
The counter-counterfeiters even make the appeal to guilt. There’s the rather tired line about morally minor crimes—as they may be perceived—being used to fund major ones, the likes of human or drug trafficking, though this is more a bogeyman argument than one that’s well-evidenced. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry speaks of counterfeiting’s negative impact on employment and revenue—to the tune of EUR1.9 billion annually—across the legitimate industry.
But the vast majority of people buying a fake would not buy the real thing were the counterfeit not available—they couldn’t afford it, yet still crave the status power that in part makes the genuine brands so appealing. This is especially the case in rapidly developing economies where peer comparison pressures are more stark. Indeed, the first in-depth studies of why sales of counterfeits are growing—led by Dr Xuemei Bian, professor of marketing at Northumbria University, UK—suggest that the motivation for buying a fake is far more sophisticated, and twisted, than the simple fact that of its relative affordability.
“One clear driver in purchasing [counterfeit watches] is the thrill of the hunt,” she argues. “There’s a fun factor in finding the best counterfeit for the right price. There’s a sense now of people who buy counterfeits belonging to a kind of ‘secret society’, one that’s curious about the original items and the counterfeits alike, especially in relation to their quality. There’s a transfer of the interest they would have had in the original article to the counterfeit. It’s a gateway to enjoying Rolex and other brands”.
In other words, Dr Bian’s research reveals, there is a growing culture of counterfeit buyers who buy them out of admiration for the artistry inherent in the fakery, as one might take a pleasure in just how convincing a fake Renoir is relative to the original. What’s more surprising, Dr Bian adds, is the incorrect assumption that counterfeit watches are only bought by those who can’t afford genuine ones.
“We found that even affluent people who can buy the real article buy counterfeits,” she says. “In part that’s because other people are less likely to question whether their watch is real or fake. They look the part. In part because they just see mixing up their watches—real and fake—as fun, or a bit naughty.”
So what of the ethical question? Don’t people just think buying a counterfeit watch is wrong? The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie’s anti-counterfeiting campaign of a few years ago was based around the statement “Fake Watches are for Fake People”. But, Dr Bian argues, this highlights a disconnect between what a prestige watchmaker may think of as wrong, and what a consumer might.
Take, for instance, arguably the watch industry’s strongest case against counterfeits: the plain and simple one that it’s an infringement of their intellectual property, the investment the real makers have put into building the brand value that makes counterfeiting their wares worth it in the first place. This is not necessarily regarding design per se—this typically needs to be protected under patent, and when patents expire watch brands are free to copy one another’s designs, and maybe it doesn’t help their cause that they have done so most liberally—so much as of names, logos and other trademarked elements. A replica or ‘homage’ that’s a precise copy all except the branding isn’t a counterfeit— ethically maybe it is, but not usually in law.
“Of course a lot of people know what they’re buying even if the ad calls the counterfeit a ‘replica’ or some such kind of code. But what we’re dealing with here is theft of intellectual property, of the ‘Swiss-made’ label, of the maker’s reputation,” says Bugmann. “This can be frustrating for the industry especially given that, for the EUR300 you might spend on a fake, you could actually buy a good Swiss watch—maybe not one from a top luxury brand but from what’s still a prestige manufacturer.”
An affront to these intellectual property rights really can be detrimental to the top brands’ reputations too. If counterfeiters reduce the branded products’ exclusivity, people who could afford the real things are less inclined to buy them: if there are fake Rolexes everywhere, the appeal of the genuine article is limited, in part lest it too be considered a fake. Research by Moty Amar, professor of marketing at Ono Academic School, suggests that the moral disgust—to overstate it somewhat—felt towards a counterfeit not only negatively affects it use, but also attitudes towards the genuine item that, as it were, looks like the counterfeit.
“A copy of one of our watches—all copied except putting ‘Bell & Ross’ on it—is a counterfeit,” states Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder, in no uncertain terms, “and that is an infringement of intellectual property rights. Counterfeit watches are not authentic products but imitations designed to copy the look and feel of the brand-name watch. It’s the desirability of the brand [that we have created] that’s ‘the cause’ of the desire to buy counterfeits.”
Unfortunately, further psychological studies have suggested that while the perceived risk can influence the rationalisation of why people buy counterfeits, ethical concerns—the likes of "what impact might I have on Cartier’s bottom line?"—don’t typically register at all. Yes, many strategies are used to dodge ethical consideration. Some see buying counterfeits as just making perfect consumer sense— they’re entertaining, cheap, almost disposable; others deny responsibility—"I’m merely the smallest cog in a long chain of events over which I have no influence"; while others argue that the market for counterfeits is beneficial to the brands copied. It’s a way of paying them a back-handed compliment.
Others, remarkably, even see their decision to buy a counterfeit as a form of retaliatory behaviour—a way of hitting back at brands they see as acting in a socially irresponsible way through their ‘unreasonably high’ pricing. But, whichever way you cut it, the idea that buying a counterfeit watch is in some sense wrong barely even figures, especially when it comes to dry legalistic matters of IP.
Besides, that’s only relevant to modern watches anyway. The whole world of fake watches is leaning towards ever greater complexity given the growing interest in vintage watches in recent years. Frankenwatches are said to now account for a fifth of all vintage watches sold in the US. Over the course of a watch’s lifetime it’s possible that the case will have been over-polished or the dial reconditioned; indeed, send a watch back to its maker for servicing and, until this vintage market won recognition, it was standard practice to make the watch look as new again as possible. But is a vintage watch with undisclosed reconditioned parts—perhaps reconditioned long before the current owner took possession—a counterfeit? Is, similarly, a customised watch, or a “modification”, in some sense counterfeit? These questions are still being worked through.
“Put modern hands on a vintage Monaco and it’s not exactly a counterfeit, and yet it will have a very real impact on its value,” stresses Jonathan Scatchard, founder of specialist dealers Vintage Heuer. “But the problem is that the quartz crisis [of the 1970s and 80s] caused all sorts of anomalies when so many Swiss watch companies went bust and parts were distributed and used across the industry. Authentification services have advanced considerably in recent years. But the vintage watch market has also made the question of what is a counterfeit and what isn’t even more of a grey area.”
And, adds Fabrice Gueroux, assuming that we will continue to live in a consumer culture that keeps telling us to define our self-worth through our possessions, it’s only going to get greyer still.
“The manufacturer can’t win this battle,” he states. “You have reality and you have PR. You see the manufacturers spending a lot of money on anti-counterfeiting tech but it’s all BS. They can’t keep up. You know the only way to tackle watch counterfeiters? It’s for manufacturers to push up the quality of their products, and to keep pushing. We’re getting to the point where that’s the only way that the fake watch is going to look fake.”
Originally published in Esquire ME
How do you respectfully honour another culture’s design legacy? Well, you call in the experts to make sure you get it right.
Which is exactly what the Swiss marque Vacheron Constantin have done for their latest Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols collection.
The set of four limited edition watches feature two interpretations of the “Seawater Cliff”, a famed Chinese motif that dates back to the Ming dynasty and was officially named under Emperor Wanli. VC artisans worked with the Former Associate Research Librarian of the Palace Museum, Mr Song, whose speciality field of study is the cultural tradition of Imperial China, to create dials that emulate a motif found on court buildings, furniture, porcelain, and most famously, Imperial dragon robes.
The Eternal Flow design is made via an originally Chinese technique called Jintai Blue, a form of cloisonné enamelling, which depicts mountain peaks caressed by tidal waves and set against a starry sky.
220 gold wires were used to delineate each part of the motif, taking over 50 hours to complete. Layers of enamel are then placed—how many is dependent on its colour and intensity—and it's fired in a kiln in between each coating. A polish and then an enamel coating is placed to enhance the final product.
The second design option, Moonlight Slivers, has a depth effect on a monochrome base. With hollowed waves, blue enamelled parts and raised diamonds set against a 18K white or pink gold (depending on which you choose) model, this style is a slightly more subtle option compared to the former.
It also uses enamel techniques, while the waves in the background are engraved into the dial to create volutes. Each sea tide is delicately hand-set with diamonds to evoke the moon slivers that inspired the name of this piece.
Behind the dial, the watches are powered by an in-house calibre 2460 with a 40-hour power reserve. The 22K gold rotor echoes the symbolism of the dial, since the oscillating weight is delicately engraved with a motif recalling the movement of waves and tides.
Originally published on Esquire UK
In 2022, TUDOR decided to embark on a venture to join the Alinghi Red Bull Racing Team as its main partner. With a common creed of pushing the boundaries of traditions and technology; TUDOR dove headfirst into the exciting world of yacht racing.
As the 37th America's Cup approaches (22 Aug–20 Oct), the spirit of partnership between TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing will test the waters of Barcelona. This will be TUDOR's foray into the world's most important sailing event.
TUDOR announced the release of two remarkable timepieces to celebrate the brand's entry into this competitive sphere: a time-only Pelagos FXD 42mm (25707KN) and the Pelagos FXD Chrono 43mm (25807KN). Both watches are part of the exclusive "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition." Crafted from high-performance materials like carbon composite, titanium and stainless steel, within these robust bodies are the Calibre MT5602 (COSC) and MT5813 (COSC) movements, respectively; both self-winding and come with a 70-hour power reserve.
Mirroring the cutting-edge engineering of the Alinghi Red Bull Racing AC75 yacht, the "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" utilise a high-tech composite of titanium and carbon—a first for TUDOR. Inspired by the titanium hydrofoil, the titanium bi-directional rotatable bezel has a black matte-finished carbon composite insert and grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova luminous material for visibility. The racing blue of the AC75 yacht's carbon-fibre hull is reflected in the blue-matted dial, where the luminescent ceramic composite monobloc hour markers add that strikingness to the overall design.
The "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" timepieces have a black matte-finished carbon composite cases with fixed strap bars. On the stainless steel caseback is an engraved Alinghi Red Bull Racing logo. "Snowflake” hands—one of the many signatures of TUDOR divers' watches—are grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova luminous material filling. With all these factors, the "Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition" watches make formidable companions on the high seas.
On cresting waves and the sea-tanged winds, the elements may assail those who dare but the spirit of adventure and innovation often supercede boundaries. With TUDOR's partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, that push against limits can propel them to greatness.
Discover the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” watches at the TUDOR boutique by Cortina Watch at Raffles City, #01-37C or online.
The Porsche 963 is a winner. Racking up podium finishes in over two-thirds of its races, the vehicle is, quite simply, built to succeed. Hailed as “the pinnacle of Porsche’s engineering expertise,” the race car notably celebrated its first major endurance race with a win at the 24 Hours of Daytona this year. Having dominated the racing world, the Porsche's appetite for winning has bled into the realm of horology by partnering with TAG Heuer to transform the Porsche 963 into a limited-edition chronograph.
Fittingly limited to just 963 pieces worldwide, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 features sub-dials with four Super-LumiNova blocks—a ceramic-based compound that captures and stores light to produce luminescence in the dark—echoing the iconic night-time visibility of the Porsche 911. This feature captures the thrill of 24-hour endurance races where drivers battle from dusk till dawn, and uncompromised legibility is vital.
Taking a page from the Porsche’s playbook, the 44mm watch features a bold skeletonised dial with tubular structural elements evocative of the race car's high-performance chassis. Forged from lightweight yet robust carbon, the bezel mirrors the engineering ethos behind the Porsche 963’s construction. Lift the hood and you’ll find a TH20-00 Calibre, a vertical clutch chronograph movement similar to the systems found in cars connecting the engine’s flywheel with the transmission. This ensures a smooth, "jump-free" chronograph operation. Y'know, like a Porsche.
While its technical specs are impressive, true beauty lies in the details. The red index at 4 o’clock isn’t just a splash of colour; it's a symbol of the surge of adrenaline as a race counts down. The watch’s rubber strap takes inspiration from NACA-style low-drag air inlets found in legendary Porsche race cars like the record-breaking Porsche 917. Even the oscillating mass—a hidden treat for watch enthusiasts—features the iconic Porsche steering wheel motif, further blurring the lines between wristwatch and race car.
Since ancient times, sports have symbolised and celebrated the spirit of human endeavour. Legendary feats of physical and psychological accomplishments have been enshrined in the annals of history. Within the context of sports, much of the basis of achievement centres around time, with competitors striving to be the fastest in the field. As part of our celebration of wellness, we commemorate the instruments that not only measure and determine the basis of sporting competition, but also symbolise the spirit of human endurance across land, ocean and in the air.
In motorsport, no race embodies the sporting spirit of endurance and mastery better than the renowned 24 Hours of Le Mans. Drivers are required to possess cat-like reflexes and superhuman levels of stamina in order to survive, let alone compete and think about beating other contenders to win the gruelling 24-hour race. To commemorate the centenary of the world’s best- known endurance race, Rolex issued a special limited-release Daytona (recently discontinued in white gold, and replaced with a yellow- gold iteration). The embodiment of Rolex’s nine decades of motorsport heritage, the Daytona has always been synonymous with legendary feats of motorsport achievement.
As for this particular Daytona, the distinction lies in the details. Apart from a special bezel that highlights the “100” indicator in a bright racing red, the “Le Mans” Daytona also sports an exclusive, new calibre 4132 movement that boosts the maximum chronograph measure from the standard 12 hours, up to a Le Mans-appropriate 24 hours. In terms of aesthetics, the ‘reverse panda’ dial is reminiscent of its ‘Paul Newman’ predecessors of the early ’70s—a deliberate choice, considering Paul Newman himself was an avid racer and one-time competitor in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979. The horological embodiment of the human desire to consistently push the limits of motorsport, the Rolex “Le Mans” Daytona combines motorsport history with the best of Rolex’s racing association and watchmaking heritage.
Out at sea, no race brings out the best in maritime performance more than the America’s Cup. The oldest competition in international sport, the contest draws the crème de la crème of sailing talent and yacht design innovation, and is the pinnacle of competition in a nautical arena. Officine Panerai, too, is no stranger to the sea. Having supplied the Royal Italian Navy for a substantial part of its history, maritime performance is a key pillar of its DNA. On the other hand, the Luna Prada Rossa sailing team has become synonymous with seafaring performance and a desire to push the limits, having notably been the Challenger of Record for the 2021 iteration of the America’s Cup.
The partnership is one borne of the love for the sea and has birthed timepieces that capture the union of daring, skill, cutting-edge technology and that relentless pursuit of excellence that drives Luna Rossa’s competitive edge. This year’s release is no different. The Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio—unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders—combines the best of Panerai’s watchmaking nous.
The first timepiece featuring the new SuperLumiNova X2 lume on the indices and hour hand, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio has a case made of the same Grade 5 titanium used in the manufacture of the Luna Rossa racing yacht. The watch is also—as expected—water resistant up to 500 metres, and is proven to withstand pressure of up to 25 per cent more than the guaranteed water resistance value. A handsome union of avant-garde technology and transcendental performance, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio is the personification of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team as it vies for its first America’s Cup victory this August.
Since early civilisation, humanity has shared a collective desire to take to the skies, long before the Cartier Santos-Dumont Reverse Wright Brothers’ first powered flight. Following their breakthrough in 1903, the human desire for continual improvement and exploration saw inventors and engineers begin to push the boundaries of flight, seeking to go higher, faster and further—exploration that persists even today. Across most aviation endeavours, time has been one of—if not the most important—elements at play, with watches such as the Cartier Santos-Dumont testament to the importance of time in the process of flight. While the modern Santos-Dumont is more of a dress watch than a true ‘sport’ watch, its continued relevance spotlights Louis Cartier’s foresight and design acumen—staying power is not something easily achieved, given how modern trends fade almost as quickly as they emerge.
The source of that staying power becomes immediately evident through this year’s Santos-Dumont Rewind. While it presents itself as any other regular Santos-Dumont in terms of movement and case dimensions, it displays the time in an interesting and playful way: backwards. To achieve that, Cartier has mirror-flipped the positions of the Roman numerals on the dial—read clockwise, it goes from 12, to 11, to 10, and so on. Despite its cleverness, however, the Rewind is still a piece that insists on being taken seriously—the smoky, scarlet dial and matching ruby cabochon (denoting its platinum case) subtly hint at the pedigree beneath its quirky facade.
As a timepiece—its presentation of the horological unpresentable in a format that has come to be beloved by watch aficionados everywhere—reveals the postmodernist artistry behind the Santos-Dumont’s design process. That said, it still carries the competitive, sporting essence of its predecessors, while reminding us all of the need to rediscover the elements of fun and freedom in sport every now and then.
