Patrick Dempsey (TAG HEUER)

The Porsche 963 is a winner. Racking up podium finishes in over two-thirds of its races, the vehicle is, quite simply, built to succeed. Hailed as “the pinnacle of Porsche’s engineering expertise,” the race car notably celebrated its first major endurance race with a win at the 24 Hours of Daytona this year. Having dominated the racing world, the Porsche's appetite for winning has bled into the realm of horology by partnering with TAG Heuer to transform the Porsche 963 into a limited-edition chronograph.

Porsche on your wrist, ya catch my drift?

Fittingly limited to just 963 pieces worldwide, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 features sub-dials with four Super-LumiNova blocks—a ceramic-based compound that captures and stores light to produce luminescence in the dark—echoing the iconic night-time visibility of the Porsche 911. This feature captures the thrill of 24-hour endurance races where drivers battle from dusk till dawn, and uncompromised legibility is vital.

Taking a page from the Porsche’s playbook, the 44mm watch features a bold skeletonised dial with tubular structural elements evocative of the race car's high-performance chassis. Forged from lightweight yet robust carbon, the bezel mirrors the engineering ethos behind the Porsche 963’s construction. Lift the hood and you’ll find a TH20-00 Calibre, a vertical clutch chronograph movement similar to the systems found in cars connecting the engine’s flywheel with the transmission. This ensures a smooth, "jump-free" chronograph operation. Y'know, like a Porsche.

While its technical specs are impressive, true beauty lies in the details. The red index at 4 o’clock isn’t just a splash of colour; it's a symbol of the surge of adrenaline as a race counts down. The watch’s rubber strap takes inspiration from NACA-style low-drag air inlets found in legendary Porsche race cars like the record-breaking Porsche 917. Even the oscillating mass—a hidden treat for watch enthusiasts—features the iconic Porsche steering wheel motif, further blurring the lines between wristwatch and race car.

Since ancient times, sports have symbolised and celebrated the spirit of human endeavour. Legendary feats of physical and psychological accomplishments have been enshrined in the annals of history. Within the context of sports, much of the basis of achievement centres around time, with competitors striving to be the fastest in the field. As part of our celebration of wellness, we commemorate the instruments that not only measure and determine the basis of sporting competition, but also symbolise the spirit of human endurance across land, ocean and in the air.

OVER LAND

In motorsport, no race embodies the sporting spirit of endurance and mastery better than the renowned 24 Hours of Le Mans. Drivers are required to possess cat-like reflexes and superhuman levels of stamina in order to survive, let alone compete and think about beating other contenders to win the gruelling 24-hour race. To commemorate the centenary of the world’s best- known endurance race, Rolex issued a special limited-release Daytona (recently discontinued in white gold, and replaced with a yellow- gold iteration). The embodiment of Rolex’s nine decades of motorsport heritage, the Daytona has always been synonymous with legendary feats of motorsport achievement.

As for this particular Daytona, the distinction lies in the details. Apart from a special bezel that highlights the “100” indicator in a bright racing red, the “Le Mans” Daytona also sports an exclusive, new calibre 4132 movement that boosts the maximum chronograph measure from the standard 12 hours, up to a Le Mans-appropriate 24 hours. In terms of aesthetics, the ‘reverse panda’ dial is reminiscent of its ‘Paul Newman’ predecessors of the early ’70s—a deliberate choice, considering Paul Newman himself was an avid racer and one-time competitor in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979. The horological embodiment of the human desire to consistently push the limits of motorsport, the Rolex “Le Mans” Daytona combines motorsport history with the best of Rolex’s racing association and watchmaking heritage.

ACROSS THE OCEAN

Out at sea, no race brings out the best in maritime performance more than the America’s Cup. The oldest competition in international sport, the contest draws the crème de la crème of sailing talent and yacht design innovation, and is the pinnacle of competition in a nautical arena. Officine Panerai, too, is no stranger to the sea. Having supplied the Royal Italian Navy for a substantial part of its history, maritime performance is a key pillar of its DNA. On the other hand, the Luna Prada Rossa sailing team has become synonymous with seafaring performance and a desire to push the limits, having notably been the Challenger of Record for the 2021 iteration of the America’s Cup.

The partnership is one borne of the love for the sea and has birthed timepieces that capture the union of daring, skill, cutting-edge technology and that relentless pursuit of excellence that drives Luna Rossa’s competitive edge. This year’s release is no different. The Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio—unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders—combines the best of Panerai’s watchmaking nous.

The first timepiece featuring the new SuperLumiNova X2 lume on the indices and hour hand, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio has a case made of the same Grade 5 titanium used in the manufacture of the Luna Rossa racing yacht. The watch is also—as expected—water resistant up to 500 metres, and is proven to withstand pressure of up to 25 per cent more than the guaranteed water resistance value. A handsome union of avant-garde technology and transcendental performance, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio is the personification of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team as it vies for its first America’s Cup victory this August.

THROUGH THE AIR

Since early civilisation, humanity has shared a collective desire to take to the skies, long before the Cartier Santos-Dumont Reverse Wright Brothers’ first powered flight. Following their breakthrough in 1903, the human desire for continual improvement and exploration saw inventors and engineers begin to push the boundaries of flight, seeking to go higher, faster and further—exploration that persists even today. Across most aviation endeavours, time has been one of—if not the most important—elements at play, with watches such as the Cartier Santos-Dumont testament to the importance of time in the process of flight. While the modern Santos-Dumont is more of a dress watch than a true ‘sport’ watch, its continued relevance spotlights Louis Cartier’s foresight and design acumen—staying power is not something easily achieved, given how modern trends fade almost as quickly as they emerge.

(CARTIER)

The source of that staying power becomes immediately evident through this year’s Santos-Dumont Rewind. While it presents itself as any other regular Santos-Dumont in terms of movement and case dimensions, it displays the time in an interesting and playful way: backwards. To achieve that, Cartier has mirror-flipped the positions of the Roman numerals on the dial—read clockwise, it goes from 12, to 11, to 10, and so on. Despite its cleverness, however, the Rewind is still a piece that insists on being taken seriously—the smoky, scarlet dial and matching ruby cabochon (denoting its platinum case) subtly hint at the pedigree beneath its quirky facade.

As a timepiece—its presentation of the horological unpresentable in a format that has come to be beloved by watch aficionados everywhere—reveals the postmodernist artistry behind the Santos-Dumont’s design process. That said, it still carries the competitive, sporting essence of its predecessors, while reminding us all of the need to rediscover the elements of fun and freedom in sport every now and then.

Singapore Watch Fair co-founder Nelson Lee
(LUXUO)

In recent years, Singapore has become well-established as one of the world’s top export markets for watches, boasting some of the world’s most engaged enthusiasts and collectors. As interest in horology continues to blossom here, it is inevitable that tastes develop beyond superficial interest in the usual top manufacturers. It is only natural that an appetite for vintage timepieces and independent watchmakers is burgeoning. In recognition of the increasingly diverse tastes in Singapore, Ali Nael and Nelson Lee began the Singapore Watch Fair (SWF), with the goal of helping establish Singapore as a regional hub for watchmaking and collecting. Since founding the Fair in 2017, it has grown, mirroring the island’s growth as a watch export market: from initially being the watch component of the luxury festival Jeweluxe to becoming a standalone event, supported by the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) and Resorts World Sentosa (RWS).

(LUXUO)

This year’s event, taking place at Resorts World Sentosa from 2-6 October, is set to build on the success of last year’s, with both STB and RWS continuing their support. Focus-wise, SWF will also continue to heavily feature independent watchmakers, whilst featuring more appearances from top manufactures, amongst other displays of watchmaking savoir-faire. Watches will remain the central attractions but this show is not just for collectors; there will be something for everyone as SWF demonstrates how and why beautiful watches are central to Singapore’s cultural landscape.

(LUXUO)

In our recent chat with festival director Nelson, he reflected on the story of SWF thus far, and the new experiences attendees can expect to look forward to at this year’s edition.

Does the world need another watch fair?

Nelson Lee: Yes – especially one that is able to bridge the geographical distance between Switzerland and the region – not just in terms of bringing watchmaking expertise to Singapore, but also being able to gather regional interest in one place. There have been stellar examples of such events in the past, but there hasn’t really been one that is consistently held on an annual basis.

(LUXUO)

Moreover, given how Singapore has cemented itself as a top export market for Swiss watches, there definitely is local demand for such events to be held in Singapore, which last year’s SWF proved. So, it wouldn’t be so much that the world needs another watch fair, but more that the region needs an annual watch fair in Asia to look forward to each year – one that caters to local interests, and that is able to form a point of convergence for the best of horology and devoted aficionados in the region.

A key focus of the SWF is that we’re always looking towards the future – this underlines our commitment to showcasing a variety of independent watchmakers every year, which stems from our belief that these independents represent the future of watchmaking, for instance, Krayon and L’Epee 1839…

(LUXUO)

Why has it taken so long for there to be a standalone watch fair in Singapore?

Nelson Lee: To begin with, I believe it’s only in the past five or so years that widespread interest in independent watchmakers and vintage collecting has begun to solidify and take off. As with the rest of the world, the value and appeal of watches only really entered the mainstream consciousness during the COVID period of socio-economic volatility. In the years since, tastes have only developed and diversified to include appreciation for the fine work of independent watchmakers. The SWF has always mainly focused on independent watchmakers and vintage collecting – areas where we felt demand was concrete, and a platform on which we could showcase how far watchmaking has come, and how it could develop, through the juxtaposition of timeless vintage pieces with the finest craftsmanship and avant-garde innovation that contemporary watchmaking has to offer.

In terms of practicality, it was only in 2023 that we were able to secure the support of a second key partner, Resorts World Sentosa. Even then (and the support of STB since 2017), despite the fact that we are more motivated by passion than by profit, the cost factor is not something that can be easily ignored.

How is the SWF improving upon the success of last year’s event?

Nelson Lee: In 2022 and 2023, the panel discussions spotlighting women who collect watches – conducted by TickTock Belles’ Stephanie Soh and Deborah Wong, amongst others – proved to be very popular. We see this as a reflection of change within the collectors’ demographic – where women are now keener to create a space for themselves in what is a traditionally male-dominated sphere, so we’re definitely retaining that and bringing more engaging perspectives from our female collectors.

Besides the various watch panels and plenary sessions, we’re also looking to ramp up the interactivity of the event: through new, on-site, immersive audio-visual driven launches and dinners, as well as a new interactive activity driven by watch expert Carson Chan, perhaps better known on social media by his IG handle @watchprofessor.

In terms of a more hands-on experience, there will also be a strap-making workshop conducted by master craftsmen, which we hope will highlight the innovation and intricate craftsmanship of an oft-underrated aspect of watchmaking.

We are also looking to bring in two more established international watch manufacturers, to add a different dimension to the craftsmanship and innovation expertise that the independent watchmakers will bring.

For more on the 2024 edition of Singapore Watch Fair, click here.

Originally published on LUXUO

Tag Heuer/Getty

Unless you're a hardcore horologist or petrol head, you can be forgiven for not knowing the name Ukyo Katayama. To motorsports enthusiasts, he's the journeyman F1 driver who racked up five Championship points across 97 Grands Prix in the Nineties. For watch enthusiasts, it's his signature emblazoned on the hardest-to-find TAG Heuer F1 (we're talking the OG, candy-coloured, Swatch-like plastic versions, btw). And not just on the dial, or tucked away on the caseback. It's on the glass, obscuring most of the bottom half of the watch. (Deep breath, date window ultras.)

Eagle-eyed Esquiristas may recognise this model from the wrist of Nicholas Biebuyck, TAG Heuer's heritage director, who was wearing it during our recent trip to Watches & Wonders. He called it his "travel watch", and it stood in refreshingly saccharine contrast to all the steel and gold on every other watch boss's wrist.

That he was wearing it was the latest clue that Tag was belatedly about to relaunch a watch fondly remembered for being affordable and fun, and the gateway to a world of watches where those two things are often in short supply. Sure enough, the bright and beautiful F1 is back, launched in a collaboration with Kith.

Tag Heuer X Kith

Hand on heart, we're a little disappointed with its departure from those two founding principles. Which is why we're still more than a little obsessed with the Ukyo Katayama version, which is the only signature model in the entire, nine-year run of the first era of F1s. Though his record might seem unimpressive, he was racing in an era when points were scarce and only a few manufacturers had competitive cars. His 97 races is still the Japanese record, and despite failing to finish 63 of them—largely thanks to mechanical issues—he was a phenomenon back home, so much so that TAG Heuer stepped in as a personal sponsor, with a spot on the sleeve of his race suit.

We love the watch not so much for Katayama, but because it embodies everything that made the original F1 such a brilliant piece of watchmaking; its four primary colours, that bonkers signature, the accessible retail price. They were originally aimed at the Japanese market and, whereas you can pick up most of the original F1s today for a few hundred dollars on resale sites, Japan is where you'll find one now, and only if the horology gods are smiling on you.

Paul-Henri Cahier

While Kith Heuer has all the makings of a down-the-street-queues day-one sellout, we're still holding out for something that's got a few more miles on its clock.

Originally published on Esquire UK

Thamserku (6623 metres) towers over the village of Namche Bazaar, where Tenzing Norgay's visitor centre is situated.

The world remembers the legacies of Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, the pioneers who conquered Mount Everest. This year marks the 70th anniversary of their historic achievement. To honour this milestone, both families, in collaboration with the Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative, have revitalised two cultural hubs in the Everest region. These are tributes celebrating the rich tapestry of the history, traditions and the Sherpa culture.

Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay approaching the highest camp on Everest at 8,500 metres, May 1953.

Back in 1953, a Nepali-Indian, and Hillary, a New Zealander, scaled the highest peak of Mount Everest. This triumphant ascent, the first in recorded history, turned a lofty dream into a tangible reality. Synonymous with precision and durability, Rolex watches were a go-to for the explorers as they could endure the harshest conditions and unprecedented altitudes.

Tenzing Norgay's statue outside his visitor centre in Namche Bazaar. The peaks of Everest and Lhotse form a striking backdrop, reminding visitors of his pioneering achievements as a mountaineer.

The climb wasn’t merely a personal triumph; it marked the genesis of a profound mission. Norgay dedicated his life to empowering the Sherpa community. Since young, Norgay trained and fostered safer climbing practices and ignited a spirit of adventure with the students at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. His legacy lives on through the Tenzing Norgay Sherpa Foundation that is supported by Rolex.

Some children play in front of Sir Edmund Hillary's statue at Khumjung School. Hillary worked closely with the local Sherpa community and founded schools hospitals and health clinics across the region.

Similarly, Hillary, through The Himalayan Trust, transformed the Everest region with hospitals, schools, bridges and even the vital Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla bear his signature. His foundation pioneered environmental conservation by sowing seeds of reforestation around Everest’s foothills.

Dr Mingma Kanchhi Sherpa works at Kunde hospital, founded by Sir Edmund Hillary. She grew up in the area and went to the local primary school, also founded by Hillary. Once she had qualified as a doctor, she returned to her village to work.

The Perpetual Planet Initiative, launched by Rolex in 2019, amplifies this commitment. From safeguarding oceans with Mission Blue to understanding climate change with the National Geographic Society, Rolex has partnered with visionaries shaping our environmental future. Today, the initiative boasts over 20 partners, from conservation photographers like Cristina Mittermeier to organisations like the Coral Gardeners. Rolex also nurtures future explorers, scientists and conservationists through scholarships and grants.

Norbu Tenzing acknowledges the achievement of his father, Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary, saying "It was the culmination of a lifelong dream." After their acclaimed summit, both men chose to support those who live in the region.

As we celebrate the indomitable spirit of Everest’s pioneers, Rolex honours a legacy intertwined with courage, innovation and a fervent love for our planet. Rolex’s unwavering commitment ensures that these stories of triumph, not just on the world’s highest peaks but in the realm of conservation, continue to inspire generations to come. 

Last year, former Bond (the spy, not the female string quartet) and Omega aficionado Daniel Craig set the rumour mill working overtime after he was spotted wearing a mysterious Omega timepiece at the Planet Omega event. It was the iconic chronograph, Speedmaster. But it was with a white dial, nothing that had been seen before. Well, until (cue first five notes of “Also Sprach Zarathustra”)... now.

Displays of the Speedmaster needed to be easily readable: white markers on a black dial. There were several Speedmaster models but those were in limited runs. A piece that came close to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in Canopus Gold aka white gold. But “white gold” isn’t the same as “white-white”.

Thus, the white dial Speedmaster Professional aka Moonwatch. Now, as part of Omega’s main collection, not only is the dial white, it is lacquered as well, a finish that’s never before been used on a Moonwatch’s step dial. This new steel case, white dial piece has black detailing and applied indices. Coupled with a vintage-inspired five-link bracelet; the anodised aluminium bezel sporting the “Dot over Ninety” on the tachymeter scale; and powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, makes this model a more attractive get.

A Return to the ALASKA I

It’s easy to assume that the selected colours served as inspiration for an astronaut spacesuit. But there’s another deeper significance to it. Let’s turn the clock back to the 1969 ALASKA I prototype. Omega was working on creating a timepiece that was optimally suited for space travel. To reflect the sun’s heat, the white dial chosen for the ALASKA I. The removable protective red case? That is now an homage to the red “Speedmaster” name on the Moonwatch white dial.

It’s said that “space is the final frontier” but that’s not the case with Omega as it pushes against its limitations to find what else can keep it ticking.

Vacheron Constantin's Overseas collection might be about the spirit of travel but from their showing of the Overseas Tourbillon line at Watches and Wonders 2024, they didn't venture too far with the design. Other than the three Patrimony pieces, the Overseas collection had a boost in model numbers. Four sunray green-dial Overseas watches (35mm gem-set version: a 41mm date: a 41mm dual time: a 42.5mm chronograph) were added to the line-up but it's the titanium Overseas Tourbillon that caught our eye.

Made entirely out of the light and robust metal, the titanium Overseas Tourbillon houses a tourbillon (duh) movement that serenely spins within its Maltese cross-inspired cage. The model holds the same characteristics as other Overseas Tourbillons—42.5mm by 10.39mm thick; small seconds display indicated by a coloured screw on the tourbillon; hexagonal bezel; blue dial. The last Overseas Tourbillon variant was impressive, thanks to its skeletonised feature. This titanium version may not have the wow factor but with the knowledge of what its made of, it's worth it.

The grade-five titanium Overseas Tourbillion holds A Calibre 2160 movement that’s only 5.65 mm thick and you can see the entire movement through an open-worked caseback. The Calibre 2160 also has a power reserve of more than three days. You can easily switch the watch among three straps—polished titanium, dark blue leather and dark blue rubber—with a titanium stainless steel folding clasp buckle.

As this is a boutique exclusive, which means if you want to get your hands on the titanium Overseas Tourbillon, head down to the nearest Vacheron Constantin outlet and put your name on a waiting list.

Eleven watches. Patek Philippe introduces 11 watches—the return of old favourites; variants of current models; new innovations. The brand steps onto new terrain with the World Time Ref. 5330G-001 at Watches and Wonders 2024. This timepiece refines world time functionality with an innovative date display that synchronises with local time. Originally launched as a limited-edition in Tokyo for the Patek Philippe “Watch Art” Grand Exhibition, the limited piece is now part of the regular production family.

At the heart of this masterpiece lies the automatic calibre 240 HU C, a marvelous powerhouse that powers the world time and date complications. The patented differential mechanism ensures a seamless transition of the date function, effortlessly adjusting forward or backwards by a day as the wearer traverses different time zones.

Navigating through the world's cities is made effortless with the convenient pusher located at 10 o'clock—a testament to Patek Philippe's dedication to user-friendly functionality. The harmonious arrangement of elements on the blue-grey opaline dial creates a visually stunning aesthetic, with the silvered periphery date display and world time indicator elegantly complementing the central carbon motif.

Encased in a 40mm 18K white gold case, the World Time Ref. 5330G-001 exudes sophistication and refinement. Paired with a blue-grey calfskin strap featuring a distinctive "denim" motif embossing, the watch strikes the perfect balance between style and substance, making it a true statement piece for discerning enthusiasts.

There's a whispering among TUDOR fans about a perennial favourite making an appearance. Since 1985, when TUDOR decided to build upon their first dive watch (the Oyster Prince Submariner), it led to a defining chapter in the brand's history: the Black Bay line. Chief among the range is the iconic Black Bay 58. It had nary a crown guard; the 38mm case sizing; the gold indices and markings—these are the hallmarks of a crowd favourite that felt familiar, timeless even, and, yet, was able to stand on its own. For this year's Watches and Wonders, TUDOR presents to us two Black Bay 58 variants. The first is in 18K gold with a green dial and bezel; this oozes opulence and sophistication. The other—and this is the one that got us into a tizzy—incorporates the Black Bay GMT's dual-time functionality. This is the Black Bay 58 GMT (probably the most on-the-nose appellation) and it's the watch that all TUDOR fans were waiting for.

A mid-size METAS Certified GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U sits inside a 38mm, 12.8mm thick case. On the dial, there's a practical date window and the usual snowflake hands. Hands and hour indices are coated with Super-LumiNova material, guaranteeing visibility even in low-light conditions. Gilt accents adorn a burgundy and black, aluminium, bi-directional bezel. (Might we add that this "Coke" look is a missed opportunity with a certain sister brand but having the Black Bay 58 GMT sport this colour combo is a hit with fans.)

Completing the ensemble, the Black Bay 58 GMT is available with either the timeless rivet-style bracelet or a sporty rubber strap, providing versatility for every occasion.

TUDOR may not have broken new innovation ground with its novelties but the Black Bay 58 GMT is enough to please fans and capture the attention of newcomers.

With hundreds of patents and movements to its name, you'd think that Jaeger-LeCoultre would coast on its past achievements but no. This is Watches and Wonder. This is where you present the best for the year. It's the perfect stage to show your peers why you've earned the title as the "watchmaker's watchmaker". Thus, for this year's Watches and Wonder, JLC flexes its complications muscles with three Duometre models: the Duometre Chronograph Moon; the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire and the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. It is the last model that strikes our fancy.

The Duometre model is a marvel in the history of movements. Before its advent, any watch with a secondary function (like a chronograph where you keep time and act as a stopwatch) would draw energy that also powers the drivetrain and that leads to a loss of balance amplitude. In short, it slows the ticks. JLC came up with an elegant solution. One that doubles the barrels and gear trains—one for timekeeping and the other for complications and displays; all linked to a single escapement.

Layering on that excellence with another is the addition of a new tourbillon construction in the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. JLC's features a new manual Calibre 388 (in-house, of course) with a tourbillion that rotates on three axes (a first for the brand).

The Triple-Axes Tourbillon

Supported on ceramic ball bearings to minimise friction and consisting of 163 components weighing less than 0.7 grams, the tourbillon is fitted with a cylindrical hairspring. There are three titanium cages. The first is angled at 90 degrees to the balance wheel; the second is set at 90 degrees to the first; and the third cage is perpendicular to the second and makes a full rotation every minute.

Oh, and did we mention that the multi-axes tourbillon also has a perpetual calendar? A grande date display is set at 3 o’clock. And the year indication has a special mechanism that highlights the last digit of every leap year in red.

Inspired by the Savonette pocket watches, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is encased in a gold case. With a pleasing rounded bezel, the timepiece's convex crystal case features an open-worked view of the tourbillon on the left, while on the right, the time display.

Limited to 20 pieces, we suspect that this will be a very expensive investment- *looks at price tag* Yup, USD438,000.00. That sounds about right for a very complicated watch like Jaeger-LeCoultre's Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual.

The thing about magic tricks is that once it happens, you'd want to take another look at the effect... and you're still amazed that it actually occurred. That's the feeling we had with Cartier's Santos-Dumont Rewind.

Other than the Santos de Cartier with Dual Time feature—a first, I might add—where you have a second time zone in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, along with a night/day indicator, the Santos-Dumont features a dial that... well, we're getting ahead of ourselves. Let's begin at where it all happened; the start of the Santos.

Not only was the Cartier Santos the first pilot's watch (it was created for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont) but it was also the first to pioneer the square case and the first to be won on the wrist (back then, pocket watches were the norm). The model is Cartier's oldest line and hasn't deviated much from its original look (exposed screws; square-ish case, etc).

The Santos-Dumont Rewind comes in a 31.5 × 43.5mm platinum case that's 7.3mm thick; the caseback has an engraved Alberto Santos-Dumont's signature. A brown alligator leather strap with platinum ardillon buckle complements the ruby cabochon crown. Watch the apple-shaped hands sweep across the carnelian dial... backwards?

And now we come to the effect. This seemingly-regular Santos-Dumont has Roman numerals that are positioned in reverse. In fact, the timepiece is powered by a reversed 230 MC hand-wound movement, which means the hands move counter-clockwise. But why is it in reverse? Well, why not?

This isn't the first time that Cartier manufactures a timepiece that runs contrariwise. There was a one-of-a-kind timepiece—a platinum Cartier Tonneau that runs in reverse—made for architect and photographer, Hiroshi Sugimoto. It's not often that you'd see this irreverent side of Cartier. But when it does happen, it highlights the brand's willingness to go off the beaten path; much like what it did for Alberto Santos-Dumont many years ago.

The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is only limited to 200 pieces. This means that when you see it—poof—it might already be gone.

The perennial watch event returns to Geneva. Here, we'll highlight the biggest watch announcements of the year. So, to kick things off, we begin with the brand that's always on everybody's lips (and wrists): Rolex. More specifically, the Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel in a different colourway.

Rolex returns with a fresh new paint of some of its most iconic models. Like, the GMT-Master II in Oystersteel. If you were expecting the "Coke" version (red and black bezel), you'd be disappointed. But then you'll be elated because the GMT-Master II now arrives in a Cerachrom bezel insert (first introduced last year), either in grey and black ceramic. This colour contrast brings to mind the changing of day and night. Not a bad thing to ruminate, if you're staring at the face of time. There are moulded, recessed graduations and PVD-coated numerals on the insert that makes it easy to read.

The Oystersteel alloy is nothing to sneeze at. This material is highly resistant to corrosion and shocks and even with the onslaught of time, it'll still offers that same lustre as when you first bought it. Opt for either the Oyster bracelet or Jubilee bracelet. Another colour pops out, set against the black lacquer dial, the 24-hour hand displays and the GMT-Master II inscription are in a striking green. According to Rolex, the green is supposed to "highlight our connection to the world.

Similar to other the other timepieces in the line-up, the GMT-Master II has a 40mm case and a Calibre 3285 movement for different timezones.

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