Sinn’s story begins in 1961, not in a boardroom, but a cockpit of a World War II airplane. Its founder, Helmut Sinn, was a man from the skies—a former pilot and flight instructor whose experience beckoned him to create aviation watches that his contemporaries could rely on in the clouds.  Luxury was never the end goal, rather, it was a means to an end. Functionality was always the priority, and he wanted a watch that could be easily serviced anywhere in the world. In addition to being durable, technical, innovative, this would eventually become a hallmark of the brand.  

After more than 30 years at the helm, Sinn would sell the company. Enter Lothar Schmidt, a former engineer under IWC who pushed the brand into a new stratosphere of innovations. Tegiment technology, for instance, hardened the surface of Sinn watches, making them incredibly scratch-resistant. Hydro technology filled watches with oil, eliminating any distortion underwater and allowing for perfect legibility at any depth. Ar-dehumidifying technology used copper sulfate capsules to absorb moisture and prevent fogging in extreme situations. Sinn was no longer just an aviation watch brand, but a brand focused on creating mission-specific watches. Fire brigades have the Einsatzzeitmesser, astronauts have the Series 140, and even white collars have the Frankfurt Financial District watches. But now, there’s something special brewing for the Singaporean market.

In celebration of Watches of Switzerland’s 60th anniversary—Sinn’s exclusive retailer in Singapore—Sinn is unveiling a commemorative watch, the Sinn Pilot 104 St Sa I WOS Commemorative Edition. We sat down with Sarah Michel, head of sales at Sinn, to discuss the new release, Sinn’s approach to the Asian market, and how the brand continues to stay true to its philosophy and unique positioning.

Sarah Michel, head of sales at Sinn.

ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Can you tell us about the special commemorative watch Sinn has created for Watches of Switzerland's 60th anniversary? What makes this watch unique?

SARAH MICHEL: You’ll notice a few unique features compared to the standard 104 series. We have a special dial with a color gradient starting light blue in the center and transitioning to a darker blue outward. This gradient is something we've incorporated in some of our special editions, and it's been really popular.

Sinn Pilot 104 St Sa I WOS Commemorative Edition.

What's unique here is how the darker blue continues on the bezel inlay, in a colour we've never used before for the 104. The date indicator is also in blue, a nice touch to keep the design cohesive.

Functionally, it’s similar to the standard 104 model, with a double date display in both German and English, thanks to the Sellita 220 movement. For example, you can set it to display "Saturday" in English, or "Samstag" in German, depending on your preference. Each of the 200 pieces is individually engraved on the back, and it comes with a unique cow leather strap in light blue, complementing the dial.

ESQ: What were the key design elements or inspirations behind the commemorative watch?

SM: Well, the inspiration actually came more from the Watches of Switzerland team. They might be able to explain their specific inspiration for the blue color better.

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND REPRESENTATIVE: The inspiration for this watch’s colour combination came from wanting to create a cohesive theme for our limited editions. The theme we focused on was Singapore—specifically, tropical elements. So, we incorporated greenery, brown for the tree trunks, and blue for the water. For Sinn, we chose blue to represent water, which gives it that fresh, cooling vibe.

Caseback of the Sinn Pilot 104 St Sa I WOS Commemorative Edition.

ESQ: If this watch could have a personality, how would you describe it?

SM: I think it's young and breezy. It has a carefree vibe, someone who likes to look good without trying too hard. That's the kind of person I could imagine wearing this watch.

ESQ: Sinn has a loyal following in Europe—how do you envision expanding that success in the Asian markets?

SM: We’re on a good trajectory. We already have sales partners across Southeast Asia and East Asia, and we look forward to expanding further. That said, we also want to deepen the partnerships we already have. Sinn watches are very technical, and not the easiest to understand immediately, so having knowledgeable partners who can explain the details is important. We want to grow in a sustainable way, ensuring high-quality sales experiences.

ESQ: Which specific Asian markets do you see as having the most potential for growth in the coming years? Why?

SM: I think time will tell where we’ll see the most growth in Asia. It’s too early to pinpoint one specific market right now.

ESQ: What are the key benefits of Sinn's partnership with The Hour Glass?

SM: The Hour Glass has a knowledgeable team with great market access and beautiful stores. They have well-trained staff who are passionate about watches. We’re very happy with our relationship with them and look forward to continuing it in the future.

ESQ: If Sinn were to sponsor a sport or competition, what would it be?

SM: We don’t usually sponsor celebrities or athletes to wear our watches. All the celebrities you see wearing Sinn watches have bought them on their own. We’ve had a presence at some sports events in Germany, mostly rally-related. For example, we’ll be at a rally event this week, as there’s a race car driver with a long history with the brand. However, any collaboration we do has to align with the Sinn DNA—like when a high-altitude jumper broke a world record wearing a Sinn watch.

ESQ: Why doesn’t Sinn sponsor competitions or celebrities?

SM: We’re still a small brand compared to others, and sponsoring can be expensive. Also, it doesn’t really fit our brand ethos. We prefer that people wear Sinn watches because they love them, not because we paid them to. We want our wearers to be passionate about the technology and design, not just celebrities doing it for money.

Sinn's latest pilot watch, the 156.1 (left) and 156.1 E (right).

ESQ: In a hypothetical "Watchmaking Olympics," what events do you think Sinn would win gold in?

SM: (Laughs) Definitely in the extreme diving category! We’d have a great chance there with our UX model, which can go as deep as you can imagine—the watch will always go deeper than you. I’d also say we’d perform well in any piloting event, especially anything involving legibility during flights. If there were an event for timing loops while flying, Sinn watches would certainly be a top contender!

ESQ: What do you see are the biggest challenges facing the watch industry in the next decade?

SM: Well, we’re already seeing a bit of a challenge now. After the COVID period, which was actually a good time for watches because people were home and getting into collecting, we've had to adjust. Brands received a lot of attention during that time, and coming down from that high has been a bit of a reality check. Now, we need to work harder to keep people’s interest. We have to stay innovative, creating watches that continue to excite people and validate their passion for horology.

ESQ: And what about opportunities?

SM: There are plenty of opportunities! Online marketing, new forms of exhibitions, and different ways of sharing content—whether through social media, online retail, or even bespoke experiences in person—are all exciting areas. The key is finding your niche and creating unique experiences. It’s not about right or wrong; it’s about how focused and innovative you are in your approach.

ESQ: What do you think sets Sinn apart from other brands?

SM: I think it’s our commitment to practicality and precision. We don’t just make watches to look good, though of course, they do! We make them to serve a purpose, whether it’s for aviation, diving, or even niche fields like rescue operations. Our goal is to create a tool that can be relied on in extreme conditions, and that’s something that resonates with a lot of our customers. When you wear a Sinn, you’re wearing a piece of precision engineering.

We all know about bees, and how they're a keystone species because of the vital role they play in pollination. We also know about the disastrous consequences if they were to stop pollinating plants (shoutout Barry, I loved Bee Movie).

But let's talk about rhinos for a moment because they just don't get the attention they deserve. As a fellow keystone species, they play a crucial role in the structure and foundation of our ecosystem. Their presence alone supports biodiversity, promotes ecosystem health, and maintains balance. For example, every time a rhino rolls around in mud, it creates a natural waterhole that other animals rely on for drinking. Every time they feed on large amounts of grass, it helps prevent overgrowth, allowing smaller animals to feed. It also simultaneously reduces the risk of wildfires as dry grass can become fuel if left unchecked. You see the point—letting this species go extinct would be catastrophic.

(BRIAN LILLY)

This is where SORAI steps in. Otherwise known as Save Our Rhinos Africa and India, SORAI is a rhino conservation organisation founded by former international cricketer and Hublot ambassador Kevin Pietersen. As a "socially conscious enterprise", their aim is to bring people and businesses together to build a more sustainable approach to conservation. Since 2018, they've supported grassroots organisations that rescue abandoned, injured, and orphaned endangered species and rehabilitate them where possible.

Hublot recognises the importance of rhino conservation, so they're getting in on the action. They're partnering with SORAI once again to release the Spirit of Big Bang SORAI, a 30-piece limited-edition of the iconic tonneau-shaped hand-wound tourbillon. As the fourth collaborative watch between both entities, part of the proceeds from the watch's sales will be donated to the organisation as it continues fighting to protect the rhinos.

Spirit of Big Bang SORAI Grey.

We catch up with Pietersen to learn more about SORAI's efforts, the story behind the new watch, and how the rest of us can pitch in to help these mystical beasts stick around for a few more millennia.

Kevin Pietersen wearing the SOBB Tourbillon Sorai.

ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: SORAI has been making strides in rhino conservation since its inception, can you share a significant moment that ignited your commitment to found this organisation?

KEVIN PIETERSEN: There wasn’t a singular moment but it was just a generic continuation of all the conservation and awareness that I have been doing since 2013, because it was 2018 when SORAI started and when I launched the brand and thought of the brand, so it was just a stepping stone in a direction where we thought that we need to up our game in making sure that we continue to raise awareness and significant sums of money and get more people involved.

ESQ: Can you tell us about the most significant achievements of SORAI since its inception?

KP: Significant achievements so far, I don’t want to talk about SORAI, I don’t want to talk about Hublot. What I want to talk about is the fact that rhino poaching seems to be on the decline at the moment which is exactly why we started doing what we are doing and exactly why we are sitting here now, because of the incredible sums of money that has been raised, because of the targeted direction of where those funds go.

We’ve been very specific on what we spend our money on because we know that if you are specific and you work with trusted organisations and you funnel all the money in the right way, you will make a difference. If you just shoot a lot of money into the air and think, “Hey guys, go and enjoy yourselves” then that’s where you become stuck, especially in a country like South Africa. We have been very targeted on technology, on running the sanctuary, on education and kids. We’ve seen lots of success and when you talk about the rhino numbers coming down it makes you smile.

ESQ: What do you want the buyers of this watch to feel or understand about their purchase?

KP: The togetherness, the unity and the people. This is about the people, this is really about the men and women, the boys and girls that live in the area and are part of a huge responsibility in looking after a keystone species.

ESQ: How the proceeds of this watch allocated within SORAI’s initiatives?

KP: It’s for the people, education and technology. The first edition was for “Care for Wild”, that’s why this is so important because of the ability it gives us with the US dollar to convert it into Rands and US dollars goes a long way when it comes to Rands.

ESQ: How can everyday people contribute to the rhino conservation?

KP: We recently set up a SORAI Rangers Program which comes from the need to build a human fence. Everybody around the world can in some way shape a form and feel they can make a difference. So we set up a subscription program where people can subscribe for as little as one pound a month and they can feel like they are a part of the human fence no matter where they live and that goes at an incredibly long way in helping us protect these keystone species.

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Felipe Pantone, who cut his teeth spray-painting walls as a pre-teen graffiti artist has become a global sensation for his bold, kinetic creations. His signature style, characterised by vibrant colour gradients, geometric shapes, and optical illusions that seem to vibrate and move with the viewer’s perspective has now found its way onto a new canvas: the ZENITH DEFY Skyline Tourbillon.

Limited to a mere 100 pieces, the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone retains pretty much everything you loved from the original model, but with a few twists. It features a 41mm octagonal stainless steel case and showcases a tourbillon mechanism with a lightning bolt bridge—a recurring motif in Pantone's art—executed in a stunning gradient of metallic rainbow tones. The watch dial, crafted from sapphire, displays a micro-engraved pattern that creates a moiré visual effect, adding to its hallucinogenic nature. Then again, time itself is a dizzying concept, so this piece makes a fitting tribute.

In this interview with Pantone, we delve into the mind of one of contemporary art’s most daring innovators and discover how he transforms a timepiece into a kinetic masterpiece.

ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: What were the biggest challenges and rewards of this collaborative process?

FELIPE PANTONE: One of the biggest challenges was finding the perfect balance between honouring the technical mastery of Zenith and infusing it with my artistic vision. Watchmaking is a field steeped in tradition, and pushing boundaries within that framework required a lot of careful consideration. However, the reward was immense—seeing a concept that originated in my mind take shape in such a finely crafted, functional object. It’s not just art you can see, but art you can wear and experience in a very personal way.

ESQ: What do you hope the watch will evoke in people who wear it?

FP: I hope it serves as a reminder of the dynamic, ever-changing world we live in. The watch is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of energy, transformation, and the blending of past and future. I want people to feel a sense of movement, not just in the mechanics of the watch, but in their own lives as they navigate through time.

ESQ: How did you balance personal expression with the commercial expectations of the watch industry?

FP: Balancing personal expression with commercial expectations is always a tightrope walk. But I see it as a challenge that can lead to innovation. For this project, I focused on how my style could complement the craftsmanship of Zenith, rather than overshadow it. The key was to stay true to my aesthetic while also respecting the heritage and precision that Zenith is known for. It’s about creating a dialogue between art and industry, where both can thrive.

ESQ: Can you describe a eureka moment you had during the design process?

FP: The eureka moment for me was when I realised how to integrate the lightning bolt motif into the tourbillon bridge. It’s a recurring element in my work that symbolizes energy and speed, and it fit perfectly into the watch’s design language. This wasn’t just a visual enhancement—it was a conceptual bridge between my art and the intricate mechanics of watchmaking. That moment was like seeing two worlds come together seamlessly.

ESQ: Are there any other mediums you'd like to explore in the future?

FP: Absolutely, I’m always looking to push the boundaries of where my art can go. Architecture and interior design are already in my sights with Casa Axis, but I’m also fascinated by virtual and augmented reality. These are mediums that allow for an entirely new kind of interaction with art—one that can be immersive and multi-sensory. It’s the next frontier for blending the digital with the physical in a way that challenges perceptions.

ESQ: How do you overcome creative blocks?

FP: I find that stepping away from the work and immersing myself in other forms of creativity often helps. Whether it’s listening to music, traveling, or even just spending time in nature, these experiences tend to unlock something in my mind. Sometimes the solution isn’t to push through the block but to change your perspective until the path forward becomes clear again.

ESQ: What book, film, or piece of music has had a profound impact on you recently?

FP: Roxy Music’s "In Every Dream Home a Heartache" has been on my mind a lot lately. The song starts off as a reflection on materialism and the hollow pursuit of perfection, but then it takes an unexpected, almost eerie twist. That shift from something seemingly mundane to something profoundly unsettling is fascinating to me. It’s a reminder that what we see on the surface is often just a façade, and that the deeper layers are where the real story lies. That kind of unexpected transformation is something I strive to capture in my own work.

The DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone is limited to 100 pieces that will be available from ZENITH online and physical boutiques, as well as with select retailers, worldwide from 12 September at 14:00 CEST

In an age where stainless steel watches are mass-produced by stainless steel machines, independent watchhouse Lang & Heyne is a refreshing anomaly. Their secret? Crafting every watch by hand. German watchmaker Jens Schneider, under the leadership of CEO Alexander Gutierrez, is steadfast in their commitment to traditional craftsmanship and vintage design.

But what does it take to marry the old with the new; to balance heritage with innovation? We sit with Gutierrez and Schneider to delve into the heart of Lang & Heyne, the challenges of carving out an identity in a crowded market and the sheer artistry behind each timepiece.

CEO of Lange & Heyne, Alexander Gutierrez

ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Who is Lange & Heyne for?

ALEXANDER GUTIERREZ: You are in our target group if you are someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, whether it's handmade cars like Morgan or Pagani, or gourmet food and fine dining. Our customers are connoisseurs who are settled, not show-offs. They cherish what they own for themselves. If you enjoy admiring the movement of a watch and winding it yourself, you could be one of our targets.

ESQ: What have been some of the most significant challenges you’ve faced as CEO, and how have you overcome them?

ALEXANDER: The biggest challenge has been defining the DNA of Lang & Heyne, a relatively young brand at just 21 years old. Unlike established brands, we don't have a long history or celebrity endorsements to lean on. Instead, our focus is on the product itself, emphasising high-end craftsmanship and in-house production. Our Saxonian heritage plays a crucial role, and we honour it by naming our watches after Saxonian kings, rather than using reference numbers. Balancing traditional watchmaking with contemporary approaches, like using both handcrafting and modern machinery, has been key. Bringing all that together, and in the end, having a successful company, is the main challenge, I would say.

The Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

ESQ: Given the prevalence of contemporary watch designs, why has Lang & Heyne continued its commitment to vintage design elements?

ALEXANDER: We want to maintain our Saxonian roots and heritage, which is why we continue with vintage design elements. Our approach is more about elegance and tradition rather than flashy, complicated features. We focus on craftsmanship, especially the artistic work done by hand, which is central to our brand's identity. This combination of vintage design with a contemporary approach is what sets us apart. For example, the Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition showcases this blend by incorporating modern materials like ceramic while retaining a classic aesthetic.

ESQ: What are the current trends in the luxury watch market, and how is Lang & Heyne positioning itself to stay ahead?

ALEXANDER: The current trend in the luxury watch market is a shift towards independent watchmakers and unique, niche products. Don’t get me wrong, I don't want to say big brands are not important anymore, but collectors and enthusiasts are increasingly seeking something different and special. At Lange & Heyne, we focus on artisan craftsmanship and customisation, allowing customers to personalise details like hands, dial colours, and materials. This personalised approach sets us apart from larger brands that often can't offer such bespoke options. By catering to these niche demands, Lange & Heyne is becoming a significant player in the independent sector.

The watchmaker

Jens Schneider, watchmaker

ESQ: Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a new watch?

JENS SCHNEIDER: A Lang & Heyne watch should be one you can use every day. We don't want to make watches that just sit in a cupboard. It should be easy to read the time and simple to wind. That's the starting point for me. Then I think about the watch's character. The next step is to gather information from my mind—things I've seen in historical watches and technical solutions—and combine them with my own ideas. You can't invent a completely new watch; it's about creating new combinations of known elements from the past with new technology or materials.

Next, I create a simple sketch of the gear train. It's just circles, but the dimensions of the circles determine the correct position of the hands on the dial. The final step is to design the watch in 3D on the computer. This isn't easy because you have to consider how all the parts fit together. If you change one part, you have to think about how it affects the others. This is the process we follow.

ESQ: How do you balance aesthetics with functionality when designing a new watch?

JENS: A watch that looks good but has no function isn't truly aesthetic. The function is what matters. For example, a very small balance wheel in the corner isn't appealing because it doesn't function well. It's all about the combination: the function should lead, and the aesthetics should serve the function

ESQ: How do you integrate modern technology with traditional watchmaking techniques?

JENS: You need to be knowledgeable about materials. For instance, using a diamond tool requires a combination of skilled craftsmanship and modern materials. We also use modern machinery. Today, I design using Computer Numerical Control (CNC) programs and machines to create the raw parts. For example, the hands of the Louis watch have a traditional shape, which we achieve through hand engraving after the raw material is cut with a laser.

ESQ: How do you two collaborate on a project from concept to completion?

JENS: We usually start with a brainstorming session, whether it's an idea from a customer, a special request, or an internal concept. We discuss the feasibility of the idea, considering both creative and practical aspects because a watchmaker has many ideas, but you cannot realise every idea. We have to consider the economic or capacity constraints, so we prioritise based on importance and resource availability.

ALEXANDER: We often work on custom projects, whether for a large order from a group like SHH or a single piece for an individual customer. The process involves detailed discussions about design, complications, and production logistics. For instance, when Sincere Haute Horlogerie requests a specific number of watches, we assess our ability to meet that volume and the specific requirements. Throughout the project, there's constant communication to refine the design and ensure it aligns with both our capabilities and the customer's expectations. For example, the success of previous models like the first and second Georg gave us confidence in the design's appeal and guided the project from concept to completion.

The independent watch brand, NORQAIN, has been making waves with its presence and its watches. To understand what makes NORQAIN tick, we turn to its founder and CEO, Ben Küffer, and its ambassador and animal sanctuary founder, Dean Schneider. During the conversation, we find out about the brand's ethos and what keeps them relevant in a saturated watch market.

NORQAIN's founder and CEO, Ben Küffer

ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Given the needs and presence of Norman, what’s the strategy when you are up against bigger and much more established brands out there?

BEN KÜFFER: Since the beginning, the strategy of NORQAIN was to be different. We looked at the watch market and there were hardly any independent brands left below 10,000 Swiss francs. And then when we decided to do it, we wanted to be totally different. We can't buy an existing brand. We have to write our own story, be 100 per cent credible and be true to our values in showing customers why Norqain is necessary in the market. That's really the strength. It's our story. One that's independent, family-owned so we don't have pressure from shareholders. We can do whatever we want and the customers felt that.

ESQ: What is this "story" that's different from the other big market players? 

BEN: Looking at the market, there were two things that we saw. One was the evolution of pricing, where prices have increased in the past years so our goal was to go back to our Swiss suppliers to tell them that we want to offer the best quality to attract younger clientele into mechanical watches. But we need to return to a pricing where we were in the past. And of course, with lower quantities. It was a big challenge but we made them understand our mission and what we are in the market. Norqain’s one big differentiation is that we went back to the past. In terms of pricing, in terms of quality; this was really important.

Then, as a new brand, you need innovation. I think innovation, we have that in everything that we do daily. Our motto is "Your life, your way." Every time we make decisions, we ask, ‘Is this different’? With regards to watch designs, in terms of how we build the community. We talked with Dean about NORQAIN's strengths and he said that the brand had a community that was with them from the start. We're doing things that are important to us but these are things that other people would care about. The outdoors; animals; being animal cruelty-free; sustainability... all these are who we are as a brand. You feel close to the brand and that's a big strength.

Dean Schneider, NORQAIN's ambassador

ESQ: How does that translate to your product? How do you associate a watch with a lifestyle?

DEAN SCHNEIDER: It's the values behind it. What Ben said is that the brand is very accessible. The values speak for themselves. We talk about animal cruelty-free products, about sustainably sourced products. We talk about shock resistance and (shows his watch), I literally wear this almost every day of my life. And it still looks and works perfectly. And that was the goal. Two years ago when I joined Norqain, everything I've seen so far, that's just pure innovation, let's be honest. In all the meetings we had, we made sure that we reached a level of innovation which hasn't been seen before.

We spoke about roaming through the malls where you see all those different brands and what's missing are the stories behind the products. What does it stand for? What does it present? Where is the message? You don't see it enough. But walk into any NORQAIN store and you'll see an image or quotes and sentences, which hints at our ethos. I’m all about messaging and stories, about inspiration and education. And so is NORQAIN.

ESQ: I think what's interesting is it inspires loyalty. 

BEN: Yeah, absolutely. True. 

ESQ: And you definitely stand for it. 

BEN: From the beginning, when we put our team together, there weren't many people. There were about three of us, maybe. I met Dean a couple of months later and we instantly clicked because I told him why NORQAIN has an opportunity in the watch market and Dean brought into the brand. It was very clear what type of product we had to produce if it was for Dean. It needed to be ultra-robust, shock-resistant. You can see [Dean] with the lions and I'd imagine that this watch needed to be strong.

So we developed NORTEQ (a special material made especially for the brand). It's super-hard material and well-suited for someone like Dean. NORTEQ helped us as a brand, in terms of how we came up with a product that hasn't been produced yet. There are no books to copy from. We had to start from scratch, to create the Wild ONE watch.

DEAN: Yeah, I think the biggest value in that is the ability to adapt and create something from scratch. Not just copy something, change it slightly and then put it on the market. NORQAIN has proven with this collaboration and we have the Wild ONE range. If you can do it for that, you can do it for anything. Imagine that future, one with different possibilities and platforms.

BEN: It was a bit easier with [Dean] because the story is very clear.

ESQ: What are the challenges for NORQAIN?

BEN: Building a brand from scratch means that you have zero customers. So you'll need to know how to make the public fall in love with what we're doing. We don't have a lot of marketing budget, to begin with. You're starting with a story that you'll have difficulty in spreading.

The game-changing moment was when I realised that the combination of NORQAIN being a hybrid brand is that everybody expected us to be only online. But we started to have our retailer network and that gave us a lot of different methods on how to spread our story. I think we did pretty well with our social media. We had digital marketing but where we excelled was our relationship with retailers. The brand was in 12 countries at the time and we did all we could to activate and reach out to local ambassadors. I realised that there's a formula. I won't reveal what it is but it's something we do whenever we enter a market.

COVID was challenging but it gave us an opportunity to stand out. In the beginning, our tendency was to put NORQAIN as the brand first. I want the brand to talk and I'm here if somebody wants to talk to me. But when COVID happened, I, in my capacity as the founder and CEO of NORQAIN, had to go out and get people to understand our message better. We were like a speedboat in a storm where every time things changed we adapted to it quickly.

NORQAIN Wild ONE All Black timepiece

ESQ: How about challenges in building the community here? The Singapore market might not be that easy as our GDP is based mainly on tourism. 

BEN: Yeah, I heard your national sport is shopping, right? [laughs] We did this across many markets and we feel that communities can share values if they have the same interests. For example in Singapore, we talked to the organisers of the Sundown Marathon; we talked to the people behind Spartan Race. People who like sports, who like to be outdoors, who like to be active, they automatically relate to us; that's how we've built our community; by reaching out to local events sponsors that fit our brand. Once you do that, you can mix the community with the brand. That was the strategy. 

DEAN: NORQAIN is special because the values they stand for are so universal. When you talk about adventure, about freedom... these are universal concepts. If you stay true to your values like NORQAIN does, regardless of the ambassadors, whatever actions they take or the things they support, they will always remind us of the same values over and over again.

BEN: That's a very small example but it's understandable. When I started in Singapore, I was told that there is a national hockey team here. So, we reached out to them. I expected maybe 20 people to be in the team and I was told, that they have 600 members. I said, okay, what are these members doing? They say they have women who play. They have Singaporeans and expats. I said, great. Let's make an event. And we did two events in a row with 50 people each. Great fun.

Here we are talking about a sport that's very niche in Singapore. But everyone gathered because they had the same interests.

Antony Lindsay, CEO of Fabergé

On a warm afternoon in the middle of nowhere, Antony Lindsay, the newly-appointed CEO of Fabergé sits before us as the ice in a glass next to an unopened can of Coke, tinkles as it melts. As the CEO of a storied brand like Fabergé, Lindsay’s task is to spread the word (and work) of the Romanov’s favourite jewellery house. With Sincere Watch Limited as its official retailer in Singapore, Fabergé continues to make its presence known. And yes, Fabergé is synonymous with the gem-encrusted eggs but the house has other achievements like jewelled boxes; animals carved out of precious stones and other ornamental objects.

In 2007, the brand underwent a revival. Taking inspiration from its storied past, Fabergé created original pieces like the Vissionnaire watches, where a Chronograph model displays two time zones at once, and the Altruist line, which has a clean and simple-to-read dial, with a crown that’s reminiscent of winding up a traditional clock. The collection that secured Fabergé’s footing in the hard jewellery world is the Compliquée models, which won the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award.

As water pool at the bottom of the glass, Lindsay talks to us. About his history, where Fabergé is at and the future.

ESQUIRE: Did Sean Gilbertson (Fabergé’s last CEO) leave you with any wisdom when you took over?

ANTONY LINDSAY: [laughs] There’s been many over the years. I’ve known Sean, coming up to almost 14 years, and we shared some moments, both good and challenging. Nothing springs to mind... except for this Winston Churchill quote, “If you ever find yourself going through hell, keep walking.”

ESQ: What’s your journey been like?

AL: I come from a family of jewellers and had an interest in gemmology at a young age. I’ve been neurolinguistically programmed to appreciate jewellery, timepieces and objets d’art just by hanging out at my dad’s atelier on the weekends. I’d look at the gemstones handled by the craftspeople. I have an appreciation for hard luxury and completed my apprenticeship as a bench jeweller. I’m proud of having played such an important role within Fabergé for about 14 years. I’ve worn different hats as well. Proud when I was appointed MD and was invited to join the board of Gemfields UK Limited. As well as becoming CEO this year.

I feel privileged and fortunate to be part of a team to write the next chapter of one of the most celebrated names in luxury. I see that as an honour. It’s the revival of the coloured gemstones on one hand and it’s also the revival of Fabergé on the other. It’s what keeps us very busy.

ESQ: What sets Fabergé apart from the rest of your competition?

AL: I’d say that Fabergé’s reputation for unrivalled craftsmanship and design is globally recognised. I’d say Fabergé’s diverse use of techniques like the guilloché enamel with the use of hard stone or visible setting. In keeping with tradition, we seek to work with the finest ateliers. Because we don’t have our own workshop, we seek out workmasters all around the world. That’s quite unique to us.

ESQ: Speaking of tradition, how do you maintain that heritage while courting the newer generation?

AL: That’s a good question. It’s important to us that we pay homage and recognise what was done in the past. We draw inspiration from Peter Carl Fabergé, whether that be through his philosophies, values or craftsmanship. To apply it in a modern and contemporary and relevant way; we like to consider ourselves as a forward-thinking brand.

ESQ: How did your partnership with Sincere come about?

AL: I’d say that we are actively looking to partner with the finest retailers in existence. We don’t profess to understand every market on the planet. So, we believe that by partnering with the best of the best, who understands how to represent a brand like Fabergé; and how to offer first-class customer service... that’s very important to us. Sincere Watch Group is the perfect fit for Fabergé and we’re delighted that they are representing us here in Singapore and soon in other parts of South East Asia.

Compliquée Peacock Emerald Watch

ESQ: What would you introduce to someone new to Fabergé?

AL: I would introduce the Compliquée Peacock watch, which is quintessentially Fabergé. We took inspiration from the Imperial Peacock Egg and, in keeping with the Fabergé tradition, we sought out the finest watch movement manufacturer and that led us to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor and now his two sons, Nicolas and Laurent, who run the business on a day-to-day basis. Throughout the discussions with them, we made the Peacock watch that has a special retrograde movement, that functions off four gears, and that allows us to add a feature for the peacock’s tail to unfurl.

ESQ: Peacocks, playing cards; are there other motifs that will utilise that movement in the future?

AL: There are some plans and they are confidential. [laughs]

ESQ: You talked about Fabergé as a book that you’re proud to be part of. What is the next chapter?

AL: To continue this revival and personally—and I know I speak on behalf of my co-workers—it’s about ensuring that the Fabergé story can still be told. What Fabergé symbolises is more than simply luxury and decadence. For us, it’s about creating prized possessions that can stand the test of time and be passed down through the generations. That’s important to us and runs through our DNA. You can scour through Christie’s and see that Fabergé is one of the highly sought-after hard luxury names in existence. 

Marie-Laure Trichard’s experience with luxury brands under LVMH has been a matter of exquisite taste. It includes being the international marketing manager at Moët & Chandon. She also served as global marketing and communication director at Champagne Jacquart. Taking a leap from the champagne industry, Trichard has found a fitting parallel in the world of horology. Last February, she became Bell & Ross’ head of marketing and communications. We check in with Trichard about her experiences in the luxury market and Bell & Ross.

ESQUIRE: You’ve previously worked at LVMH and Champagne Jacquart. What was your takeaway from a business like LVMH?

MARIE-LAURE TRICHARD: LVMH was my foray into the luxury sector. Within marketing, there were different fields of competencies and what was interesting was LVMH’s method of strengthening its brand. They found a way to focus on their brand’s DNA, making sure that it’s clear enough as a brand story.

Their history is brought to life in a very creative and memorable way. That’s the gist of LVMH’s management. A mix of history and creativity that evolves the brand to stay current. And that is what’s being done at Bell & Ross. Of course, you’ll need perceptions of the local markets because when you’re working on a global scale, there’s a need for consistency. It’s important to understand different markets in order to encourage brand evolution.

ESQ: What did you find surprising about the Southeast Asian market?

MLT: The market here is very strong about Bell & Ross. With regards to brand positioning, we have far more Bell & Ross boutiques in Southeast Asia than elsewhere.

ESQ: You’ve worked with many organisations like the Tara Ocean Foundation.

MLT: We went with Tara because of its combined use of man and machine for its underwater missions. We equip Tara with the tools needed for its research. Another challenge for Tara is generating awareness; that’s where we come in. We provide communication globally with some point-of-sale to showcase the foundation and visibility to what it does.

ESQ: What about your partnership with the Alpine F1 Team? How does this collaboration start?

MLT: Basically, it’s shared values. We looked at the organisations that we want to work with and see if our ethos align. The collaboration needs to make sense. From the start, Bell & Ross, developed proficient tools for the use in extreme conditions. It’s all about the union of competences; that’s what the brand was built upon. There needs to be this idea of surpassing oneself. To push against the boundaries of excellence.

BR 05 Chrono Alpine A523

ESQ: Is Bell & Ross interested in jumping onto market trends like genderless dials?

MLT: There was a restyling for watches done that way. A preference for smaller cases. Our design is minimalist so the idea is that we’d use smaller cases but retain the traits that it’s a man’s watch. I’d say that there needs to be a mix of creative inspiration and the brand DNA in order for it to be relevant.

ESQ: Do you have an uptick of female patrons in the last few years?

MLT: The world is always evolving. In this day and age, a woman would pick up a man’s watch and vice versa. Our BR S model is a smaller case but that’s not core to the brand. We just want to focus on what Bell & Ross it’s known for, which is legibility, functionality, reliability and precision.

ESQ: What’s the first watch you’ve ever got?

MLT: When I was young, there was this huge hullabaloo about Swatch watches. It was ubiquitous and so trendy. So, that was my first timepiece.

ESQ: Are you also a watch collector?

MLT: No. But my interest in the watch industry is mainly for the craftsmanship. But after spending so much time in the watch industry, I finally understand why people would collect them. I understand the allure.

ESQ: You’ve also worked with the Patrouille de France. For its 70th anniversary, there’s a special nod to its history with the silhouettes of the five aircrafts that were flown since 1953.

MLT: We delve in different fields of competition like in the air, on land, in the waters; that’s the common approach across the board. The idea for the Patrouille de France is bringing its story to life and we wanted to highlight that evolution by etching the plane models on the back of the ceramic case. We needed to simplify the look of the planes while not losing their traits. 

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