Father's Day is coming up on Sunday, 16 June 2024. There's still time to figure out how to express the enduring love you have for Dad but here's an idea: a luggage. Not just any luggage though, but the Samsonite Proxis™.
The Samsonite Proxis™ is what great travel luggage should be. It's incredibly lightweight yet has a strong exterior at the same time, thanks to Samsonite's Roxkin™ material. The innovative multi-layered material is resilient and is made to withstand shocks and knocks—it essentially bounces back into shape.
Gifting the Samsonite Proxis™ is symbolic in more ways than one. The tough and resilient exterior is a stereotypically father-figure trait but a luggage can also represent possibilities of the future. Travelling opens the door to endless experiences and having the right accessory aids in that quest of making whatever tomorrow a reality. It's a way of thanking him for all that he's done and offering him a tool for all his tomorrows—much like how he's provided them for you.
Each Samsonite Proxis™ is designed with the same functionality; the only difference is in its colour and hence, the inherent personality of its eventual owner. We break down the four colours and three sizes within the collection and the travel personalities that they're best suited for so that you know you're making the right decision this Father's Day. Tomorrow is here and there's no time to waste in getting that head start.
He's a cross between Bear Grylls and Aaron Taylor-Johnson—he won't be sequestering himself out in the wilderness like the former, but rather, enjoys the thrill of being one with nature for a considerable amount of time. His idea of fun includes hiking up a mountain in the middle of the night just so that he makes it to the peak at the crack of dawn, taking in the splendour of Mother Nature.
A luggage makes zero sense in the wilderness, no matter how tough and lightweight like the Samsonite Proxis™ is designed to be. But he's also not a regular outdoor-loving dad; he enjoys the luxuries that he's worked so hard to afford. He'll bring along the Proxis™ Spinner 75/28—the largest in the collection—to check into a luxury lodge, and switch it for a robust outdoor backpack that fits nicely into its roomy interior. He loves the outdoors, yes, but he's no savage.
A man as dashingly foxy as Oscar Isaac and Patrick Dempsey deserves a travel companion that reflects the sophisticated charm he's honed through years of experience. The Proxis™ in Silver makes perfect sense for someone with such a discerning taste, yet knows he doesn't need to try hard at all to appear put together. After all, this is someone who guided you through your first cigar, and that one night he sneaked in a shot of whisky for you to try when Mom wasn't home—all for a lesson in good taste.
The Spinner 69/25 size is a conscious decision. It's the mid-sized luggage in the collection and fits quite a lot. He doesn't need much but only because he's the kind of organised traveller who already has his outfits coordinated in his mind and packs only those combinations. He knows what he wants and needs; everything else is unnecessary.
You're often reminded countless times that he only looks as old as he feels. And according to him, he's only at his prime—just like Gong Yoo and Idris Elba. He's an early adopter of all things trendy and cool, long before you've even heard that digicams are back in style or that the AirPods Max are for the aesthetics. But most importantly, he's a kid at heart, fiddling with his Nintendo Switch as a way of kicking back after a long day at work.
A youthful disposition such as his is matched only by the Proxis™ in Lime. It's unapologetically bold and stands out from the crowd just like he does—which is great because he does get distracted sometimes while waiting for his luggage to make its way on the conveyor belt.
He's every bit like Jason Momoa—super chill, marches to the beat of his own drum, and most importantly, loves the beach. He loves the water and is typically the first one to run towards it every chance he gets. He's also the reason why you're able to swim pretty decently, thanks to all those weekends spent on swimming lessons. You cursed under your breath every Saturday morning because you'd rather stay in watching cartoons, but hey, you're now treading water like it's second nature.
Like every true-blue beach lover, he needs very little for his beach vacations. The Proxis™ Spinner 55/20 in Petrol Blue (what else, really) is the perfect size to fit the essentials—a pair of swim shorts, sandals, some shirts and even his very own packable yoga mat for those zen mornings.
The Samsonite Proxis™ collection is now available at all Samsonite stores (excluding factory outlet stores) and online at samsonite.com.sg.
Since ancient times, sports have symbolised and celebrated the spirit of human endeavour. Legendary feats of physical and psychological accomplishments have been enshrined in the annals of history. Within the context of sports, much of the basis of achievement centres around time, with competitors striving to be the fastest in the field. As part of our celebration of wellness, we commemorate the instruments that not only measure and determine the basis of sporting competition, but also symbolise the spirit of human endurance across land, ocean and in the air.
In motorsport, no race embodies the sporting spirit of endurance and mastery better than the renowned 24 Hours of Le Mans. Drivers are required to possess cat-like reflexes and superhuman levels of stamina in order to survive, let alone compete and think about beating other contenders to win the gruelling 24-hour race. To commemorate the centenary of the world’s best- known endurance race, Rolex issued a special limited-release Daytona (recently discontinued in white gold, and replaced with a yellow- gold iteration). The embodiment of Rolex’s nine decades of motorsport heritage, the Daytona has always been synonymous with legendary feats of motorsport achievement.
As for this particular Daytona, the distinction lies in the details. Apart from a special bezel that highlights the “100” indicator in a bright racing red, the “Le Mans” Daytona also sports an exclusive, new calibre 4132 movement that boosts the maximum chronograph measure from the standard 12 hours, up to a Le Mans-appropriate 24 hours. In terms of aesthetics, the ‘reverse panda’ dial is reminiscent of its ‘Paul Newman’ predecessors of the early ’70s—a deliberate choice, considering Paul Newman himself was an avid racer and one-time competitor in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979. The horological embodiment of the human desire to consistently push the limits of motorsport, the Rolex “Le Mans” Daytona combines motorsport history with the best of Rolex’s racing association and watchmaking heritage.
Out at sea, no race brings out the best in maritime performance more than the America’s Cup. The oldest competition in international sport, the contest draws the crème de la crème of sailing talent and yacht design innovation, and is the pinnacle of competition in a nautical arena. Officine Panerai, too, is no stranger to the sea. Having supplied the Royal Italian Navy for a substantial part of its history, maritime performance is a key pillar of its DNA. On the other hand, the Luna Prada Rossa sailing team has become synonymous with seafaring performance and a desire to push the limits, having notably been the Challenger of Record for the 2021 iteration of the America’s Cup.
The partnership is one borne of the love for the sea and has birthed timepieces that capture the union of daring, skill, cutting-edge technology and that relentless pursuit of excellence that drives Luna Rossa’s competitive edge. This year’s release is no different. The Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio—unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders—combines the best of Panerai’s watchmaking nous.
The first timepiece featuring the new SuperLumiNova X2 lume on the indices and hour hand, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio has a case made of the same Grade 5 titanium used in the manufacture of the Luna Rossa racing yacht. The watch is also—as expected—water resistant up to 500 metres, and is proven to withstand pressure of up to 25 per cent more than the guaranteed water resistance value. A handsome union of avant-garde technology and transcendental performance, the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio is the personification of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team as it vies for its first America’s Cup victory this August.
Since early civilisation, humanity has shared a collective desire to take to the skies, long before the Cartier Santos-Dumont Reverse Wright Brothers’ first powered flight. Following their breakthrough in 1903, the human desire for continual improvement and exploration saw inventors and engineers begin to push the boundaries of flight, seeking to go higher, faster and further—exploration that persists even today. Across most aviation endeavours, time has been one of—if not the most important—elements at play, with watches such as the Cartier Santos-Dumont testament to the importance of time in the process of flight. While the modern Santos-Dumont is more of a dress watch than a true ‘sport’ watch, its continued relevance spotlights Louis Cartier’s foresight and design acumen—staying power is not something easily achieved, given how modern trends fade almost as quickly as they emerge.
The source of that staying power becomes immediately evident through this year’s Santos-Dumont Rewind. While it presents itself as any other regular Santos-Dumont in terms of movement and case dimensions, it displays the time in an interesting and playful way: backwards. To achieve that, Cartier has mirror-flipped the positions of the Roman numerals on the dial—read clockwise, it goes from 12, to 11, to 10, and so on. Despite its cleverness, however, the Rewind is still a piece that insists on being taken seriously—the smoky, scarlet dial and matching ruby cabochon (denoting its platinum case) subtly hint at the pedigree beneath its quirky facade.
As a timepiece—its presentation of the horological unpresentable in a format that has come to be beloved by watch aficionados everywhere—reveals the postmodernist artistry behind the Santos-Dumont’s design process. That said, it still carries the competitive, sporting essence of its predecessors, while reminding us all of the need to rediscover the elements of fun and freedom in sport every now and then.
Here’s a scenario that sneaker fans in 2024 might find familiar.
You’ve trawled the week’s wildly packed drop schedule and found something worthy. You log onto the app to purchase a little early, maybe ten minutes or more, and as you watch the clock gradually count down, your adrenaline levels slowly rise. The timer hits zero and the shoe is almost yours. Two minutes later the sold out signs go up with you still queuing like a damn fool. You log off sorrowfully, cursing your bad luck. Later that day, you spot the usual resellers surrounded by 10 or 15 pairs of the shoe in question on social media, playing with them joyfully like they were a soppy gang of puppies. If you want the shoe now you’ll likely have to pay double, maybe even triple the price.
When it comes to sneakers, the drop-and-cop schedule has been developed and refined over almost three decades. In combination with brands often deliberately cutting production runs it has become a well-oiled machine powered by A.I., bots and cold hard capitalism. But fractures have begun to appear, with the industry beginning to look just a little jaded. While OG sneaker fans were already used to feeding off scraps when it came to staying in the game, now resellers are now decrying an industry that has seemingly lost its imagination. The question is, has sneaker culture finally hyped itself out of the game?
Of course in an era of fake news we should be a little careful in what we believe. Then there’s history to tend with. As a people we often have a tendency to decry our current crisis as the worst of times. Socially, culturally, financially… the nadir is almost always here and now. The: “It was so much better in my day” effect. When it comes to sneakers, just a cursory online search reveals that its own cultural demise has been grossly exaggerated on more than one occasion.
In the beginning, sneaker culture was about community and camaraderie. It was about buying (‘copping’) a shoe at the retail price and, if there was any reselling to be done it was often direct to other collectors or even local stores, increasing the special bonds and like minds of a location. Slowly but surely that model changed.
In 2012, your average sneaker collector thought that the nascent hype culture was just a fad. Those who had been in the game since MJ dropped his OG Nike shoe in 1985 were furious, but they were content to wait it out.
At the time, a thread on the sneaker forum niketalk.com entitled “Sneaker Collecting is a Fad… and Dead” got some serious heat. While the majority tentatively disagreed with the statement, almost all were aligned on the fact that things weren’t changing for the better. “As a 13-year collector I have to say, yes,” said one user. “The sneaker culture sucks now. You can’t even buy the kicks you want without going above and beyond and out of your way. I think it’s officially time to throw in the towel.”
Others, however, were a little more committed to the long game. “I’ll just slow down for now,” said another. “I’ll stack my money and be back in full effect when everybody leaves this fad.”
While many pointed the finger at big brands such as Nike for reducing numbers and therefore creating the illusion of demand, the majority had one target for their ire. “It’s the hypebeasts and resellers that kill me,” fired off another comment on niketown. “They don’t care about the history of the shoe, they only want to make a profit off it or be seen in what’s hot.”
You can argue that it was the bot that killed original sneaker culture. Used in a variety of ways, the key is that a reseller can programme a bot to mimic human behaviour in a fraction of the time. So, after being set to alert the user of a restock or new drop the second it becomes public, the bot can then clear the digital shelves before a real life human user even has time to enter their email address. When the majority of those kicks wound up on reselling sites at hugely inflated prices, the majority of early sneaker collectors just got priced out of the game.
When brands such as StockX took things out of the spare room and into a big business model, well you knew that sneaker culture was never really going to be the same again. While bots were to blame for killing the OG sneaker game, the industry’s current malaise could be put down to oversaturation. Sneaker drops and fresh collabs have become so omnipresent that any real joy at copping dissipates in hours. But although back in the day it was the individual sneaker fan whose nose was out of joint, now it’s the resellers that are crying foul.
“This is definitely an issue,” says hegotkickz, a sneakerhead who started his YouTube channel in 2019 and regularly speaks out to more than 50k followers. “But right now what’s affecting the market is [as simple as] the lack of good colourways. People have been asking for them, but just not getting them.”
At the beginning of 2023, a Business of Fashion report revealed that sneaker sales had dropped in 2022. The market was in decline. While the big brands continued to be popular, the constant drop model—combined with uninspiring colourways—was starting to become a turnoff for sneakerheads. That was something that resulted in a spike for more niche brands such as Mizuni and HOKA.
While big brand methodology was clearly out of sync with the consumer, the hypebeasts themselves were coming under fire for something far more sinister altogether—echoing the concerns of those niketalk chats almost eight years earlier.
According to an article on ESPN in January 2020, Nike had quickly removed all its Kobe Bryant-related products from the shelves to stop people profiting off the NBA legend’s tragic death. It mattered not. Sneakers and memorabilia prices were hiked by 200 to 300 percent on resale sites within 24 hours of his passing.
In reality, while sneaker culture is undoubtedly going through some shifts in power right now that’s simply evolution. However, you cannot shift the feeling that, with every passing phase you feel the love dissipate from sneaker culture just a little more. It’s profit margins over passion. What’s needed is a reset.
As for hegotkickz, well he’s a purist at heart.
“I was into sneakers as a kid, but I just couldn’t afford them. Until I got some Military Blue Jordan 4s. To be honest, I don’t think that the culture will ever really die. But we do need to get back to simply loving the shoe instead of just the money. These shoes are pieces of art. People should enjoy that."
Originally published on Esquire ME
When Bulgari speaks of the “Italian Genius”, it is referencing Italy as home of the luminaries of science and the arts. From Leonardo Da Vinci’s visionary inventions to the astronomical theories presented by Galileo, to the Renaissance masterpieces by Raphael, Sandro Botticelli and Michelangelo, there is no doubt Italy has been a hotbed of creativity.
Bulgari continues this heritage with the B.zero1 collection. It is a fine example of Bulgari’s Italian Genius manifestation—iconic in its own right, with a strikingly distinct look that is immediately recognisable, even from afar. It’s a statement and a staple credited to its unique design language and its use of clean lines. What started in 1999 as a ring inspired by the Tubogas technique—an industrial- inspired method pioneered by Bulgari—has seen many iterations, each version exploring a different facet of the B.zero1.
Yet, through it all, the foundational design of the B.zero1 stands on its own. Reminiscent of Rome’s Colosseum with its sinewy flowing lines embedded between two thicker edges; these are key characteristics that are the focus of Bulgari’s 2024 B.zero1 novelties.
At its simplest, the B.zero1 Essential ring is a basic band branded with the Bulgari logo that’s fitted with a single diamond. Taking it up a notch is a three-band B.zero1 available in 18k rose, yellow, and white gold. Within the circumference of the ring is the interior wave with a diamond pavé set at the edge. The collection’s Mona Lisa is a truly a fearless design rendered in a two-band rose or white gold. Instead of the iconic wave, the interior is bedecked with pavé diamonds. Multiple-sized diamonds were used to create a three-dimensional depth and flow, which captures the fluidity of the original design.
And there will be more to come: two matching bangle bracelets are set to be released in June this year. The bracelets round off the entire collection as well as offer more styling options.
While American businessman Bert Lance may have reason to propose that “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, that is evidently not how a genius operates. If the constant exploration of creative expressions is a measure of one’s ingenuity then, Bulgari will keep searching for new ways to elevate and refresh an icon like the B.zero1. Because resting on one’s laurels does not break boundaries. This is one of the brand’s noble goals it aims to embody.
In recent years, Singapore has become well-established as one of the world’s top export markets for watches, boasting some of the world’s most engaged enthusiasts and collectors. As interest in horology continues to blossom here, it is inevitable that tastes develop beyond superficial interest in the usual top manufacturers. It is only natural that an appetite for vintage timepieces and independent watchmakers is burgeoning. In recognition of the increasingly diverse tastes in Singapore, Ali Nael and Nelson Lee began the Singapore Watch Fair (SWF), with the goal of helping establish Singapore as a regional hub for watchmaking and collecting. Since founding the Fair in 2017, it has grown, mirroring the island’s growth as a watch export market: from initially being the watch component of the luxury festival Jeweluxe to becoming a standalone event, supported by the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) and Resorts World Sentosa (RWS).
This year’s event, taking place at Resorts World Sentosa from 2-6 October, is set to build on the success of last year’s, with both STB and RWS continuing their support. Focus-wise, SWF will also continue to heavily feature independent watchmakers, whilst featuring more appearances from top manufactures, amongst other displays of watchmaking savoir-faire. Watches will remain the central attractions but this show is not just for collectors; there will be something for everyone as SWF demonstrates how and why beautiful watches are central to Singapore’s cultural landscape.
In our recent chat with festival director Nelson, he reflected on the story of SWF thus far, and the new experiences attendees can expect to look forward to at this year’s edition.
Nelson Lee: Yes – especially one that is able to bridge the geographical distance between Switzerland and the region – not just in terms of bringing watchmaking expertise to Singapore, but also being able to gather regional interest in one place. There have been stellar examples of such events in the past, but there hasn’t really been one that is consistently held on an annual basis.
Moreover, given how Singapore has cemented itself as a top export market for Swiss watches, there definitely is local demand for such events to be held in Singapore, which last year’s SWF proved. So, it wouldn’t be so much that the world needs another watch fair, but more that the region needs an annual watch fair in Asia to look forward to each year – one that caters to local interests, and that is able to form a point of convergence for the best of horology and devoted aficionados in the region.
A key focus of the SWF is that we’re always looking towards the future – this underlines our commitment to showcasing a variety of independent watchmakers every year, which stems from our belief that these independents represent the future of watchmaking, for instance, Krayon and L’Epee 1839…
Nelson Lee: To begin with, I believe it’s only in the past five or so years that widespread interest in independent watchmakers and vintage collecting has begun to solidify and take off. As with the rest of the world, the value and appeal of watches only really entered the mainstream consciousness during the COVID period of socio-economic volatility. In the years since, tastes have only developed and diversified to include appreciation for the fine work of independent watchmakers. The SWF has always mainly focused on independent watchmakers and vintage collecting – areas where we felt demand was concrete, and a platform on which we could showcase how far watchmaking has come, and how it could develop, through the juxtaposition of timeless vintage pieces with the finest craftsmanship and avant-garde innovation that contemporary watchmaking has to offer.
In terms of practicality, it was only in 2023 that we were able to secure the support of a second key partner, Resorts World Sentosa. Even then (and the support of STB since 2017), despite the fact that we are more motivated by passion than by profit, the cost factor is not something that can be easily ignored.
Nelson Lee: In 2022 and 2023, the panel discussions spotlighting women who collect watches – conducted by TickTock Belles’ Stephanie Soh and Deborah Wong, amongst others – proved to be very popular. We see this as a reflection of change within the collectors’ demographic – where women are now keener to create a space for themselves in what is a traditionally male-dominated sphere, so we’re definitely retaining that and bringing more engaging perspectives from our female collectors.
Besides the various watch panels and plenary sessions, we’re also looking to ramp up the interactivity of the event: through new, on-site, immersive audio-visual driven launches and dinners, as well as a new interactive activity driven by watch expert Carson Chan, perhaps better known on social media by his IG handle @watchprofessor.
In terms of a more hands-on experience, there will also be a strap-making workshop conducted by master craftsmen, which we hope will highlight the innovation and intricate craftsmanship of an oft-underrated aspect of watchmaking.
We are also looking to bring in two more established international watch manufacturers, to add a different dimension to the craftsmanship and innovation expertise that the independent watchmakers will bring.
For more on the 2024 edition of Singapore Watch Fair, click here.
Pharrell Williams is renowned as a visionary whose creativity transcends music, art, and fashion, solidifying his global cultural icon status over two decades. His boundary-breaking efforts across diverse realms underscore the level of innovation, pioneering spirit, and entrepreneurship he embodies.
Given Williams' stature and influence, it's unsurprising that he has a track record of collaborations with other fashion houses under LVMH and beyond. Notably, he showcased a pair of custom Tiffany & Co. sunglasses while attending Kenzo's Autumn/Winter 2022 runway show. Crafted from 18k gold and embellished with 61 diamonds totalling 25 carats, along with two emerald-cut emeralds, the sunglasses unknowingly became a teaser to Williams' partnership with Tiffany & Co..
An official collaboration between Tiffany & Co. and Williams became inevitable. The Tiffany Titan Collection by Pharrell Williams showcases a remarkable fusion of ancient mythos and modern aesthetics, symbolising vitality, strength, and unwavering resolve.
“I’m very inspired by water, and the name of this collection “Titan” draws inspiration from Poseidon, ruler of the sea, King of Atlantis—“Atlantis” which is also the name of the community I grew up in Virginia Beach. The detail in all of the jewellery pieces is very intentional, the use of black titanium…it’s a physical manifestation of beauty in blackness,” explains Williams.
Featuring 19 unique styles—12 in recycled 18k yellow gold and seven in titanium—this collection comprises of an array of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. Each design harmoniously merges luxury with creativity, encouraging wearers to confidently express themselves.
The pieces adopt the structure of the trident with its angular spear-shaped motif. A symbol of unconstrained individualism, the motif is juxtaposed by a uniquely shaped link that juxtaposes the sharpness of the spear, portraying a dialogue between tensions, proportions and balance.
The pavé pieces are set with fishtail and reverse-set diamonds, strategically placed to catch light from all angles so that the brilliance of every facet is amplified. Meanwhile, titanium accents undergo a molecular process, resulting in a striking deep black hue that enhances the yellow gold features of a range of pieces for a more graphic proposal.
The attention to detail is undoubtedly meticulous. The clasps on the necklaces and bracelets seamlessly integrate with the trident motif for a flawless, uninterrupted look. Adding a dynamic touch, the pendants, earrings, and rings boast rotating elements designed to move with the wearer—another example of Tiffany & Co.'s unexpected inventiveness, much like its collaborator's.
Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams will be available this May exclusively on Tiffany.com in the US and at The Landmark in New York City. The collection will be available globally at Tiffany & Co. stores and Tiffany.com in June.
"Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking."—one can imagine Anna Wintour herself uttering those words as a throng of floral-clad outfits paraded themselves in, one after another, into the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was the first Monday in May, also known as the Met Gala, and Wintour assumed her longtime role as co-chair. She was joined by Met Gala 2024 co-chairs Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya, Chris Hemsworth, and Bad Bunny. Honorary chairs for this year's edition were Loewe's Jonathan Anderson, and Shou Chew, chief executive of TikTok.
The annual benefit celebrated the opening of the latest seasonal exhibition, Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, where around 250 objects spanning four decades are on display. Each fashion object features a relation to nature, serving as a metaphor for the fragility and ephemerality of fashion. As an extension of this time travel of fashion through a nature-centric lens, the theme of Met Gala 2024 was "The Garden of Time". While the title immediately conjures up images of flora and fauna, in actuality, it's quite a broad theme.
"The Garden of Time" is a reference to a 1962 short story of the same name by J.G. Ballard. It tells a story of Count Axel and his wife live in a villa surrounded by a garden of crystal, time flowers. In order to escape an approaching angry mob, the count began plucking off the flowers one by one to travel back in time, until there were none left and they both succumbed to their inevitable downfall.
Yes, it is somewhat of an irony that the story's narrative inspired the dress code for this year's Met Gala—a benefit attended by modern-day aristocrats.
Looking into the source material, the theme leaves room for interpretation. Sure, the florals and anything else garden-related are a given, but manners of aristocratic dress were also options. And due to the time-travelling nature of the story, there's also no fixed period to be restricted by. First-time attendees (and the first K-pop group in history to attend the Met Gala) Stray Kids wore custom Tommy Hilfiger suiting in the brand's signature hues with subtle floral and botanical details, while Barry Keoghan stunned in a velvet Burberry suit that was a nod to period dressing.
Others took on the story's more nuanced theme of doom and destruction. Wisdom Kaye's Robert Wun ensemble was the perfect manifestation of destroyed beauty with its burnt edges; Bad Bunny's Maison Margiela suit featured loose topstitching that were irregularly done; and Dan Levy's Loewe fit beautifully interpreted the theme with a floral suiting that graduated into darkness.
View our picks of the best menswear looks at Met Gala 2024 in the gallery below.
Artistic director Kim Jones continues to expand Dior Men’s visual vocabulary in a manner that respects and upholds the legacy of the House. His latest—for the Fall 2024 collection—looks at reimagining the Dior Oblique motif once again.
Debuted in the Dior Men Winter 2023 collection, the Dior Oblique Gravity was the medium of choice to launch a new iteration of the Dior Saddle, dubbed the Dior Saddle Boxy. The Dior Oblique Gravity was introduced in a number of rich, bold hues that highlighted its characteristic patent leather sheen, with the embossed grooves providing a kind of tonal gradation.
For Fall 2024, Jones introduces an update. Where the Dior Oblique Gravity was visually more robust, the Dior Gravity Leather is its softer cousin in more ways than one.
Unlike its predecessor, the Dior Gravity Leather employs the use of grain-textured leather for a more matte finish. The embossing technique itself is a work of art that reflects the house’s handcrafted approach in everything that it dabbles in. Instead of a typical embossing technique where pressure is manually applied to create the desired pattern, the Dior Oblique motif visible on the latest expression is created though a unique technique that delicately marks the leather with the aid of gravity. The result is an almost barely-there appearance across a selection of small leather goods and bags.
The Dior Gravity Leather is available in more muted shades of beige, black and khaki. Small leather goods, such as a belt and a cardholder, are dressed in the motif’s original scale, while bags are given a blown-up, maxi version for a play of proportions. The latter includes the Dior Hit The Road backpack that strikes a beautiful balance of luxury fashion and ruggedness in one refined piece.
Augustinus Bader is known for its potent, science-backed skincare, and now it is extending the cellular- renewing magic of its proprietary TFC8 tech to hair. An upgrade from its predecessor, The Rich shampoo and conditioner work in tandem to revive hair that’s extra-dry, heat-damaged, coloured and/or breakage-prone. Essentially, you’d have a mane like this handsome boy pictured.
Don’t be fooled by the appearance of this backpack. This work of art is part of Berluti’s Toujours Soft series. Crafted from Venezia leather, it cuts a rather structured profile but feels incredibly soft (and not to mention, light). The softness also gives the backpack potential to be even more pliable with age. The Scritto-decorated exterior also lends a classic gentlemanly air that’s contrasted with the contemporary top-handle-backpack hybrid.
Because ideas of what makes a man have changed over the decades, it makes perfect sense for Guerlain to update some of its signature men’s fragrances. Perfumer Delphine Jelk sought inspiration from the world of spirits, transforming Vetiver, Habit Rouge, and L’Homme Idéal into eau de parfums reminiscent of infused gin, bourbon and amaretto respectively. The intensities are heightened thanks to a selection of concentrated ingredients; each of the fragrances is seductive in its own way.
How does one create leather shoes that feel buttery-soft on your feet? Zegna achieves it with the use of leather typically reserved for making gloves. Not only is the leather durable and extremely light and airy, the glove leather-tanning process gives it a form- retaining capability that heightens the luxurious feel of the Zegna Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN shoes. Your feet will thank you.
Jabra boasts that its Elite 8 Active earbuds are the world’s toughest and it’s easy to understand why. They are US Military-tested to be dustproof; completely waterproof (with the added boon of being saltwater-proof), and fitted with the Jabra ShakeGrip tech to keep your ear buds in place no matter what activity you engage in.
Say hello to the second release in The Macallan Home Collection. This particular expression is a hearty mix of sultana, rich velvety butterscotch, toasted oak, chocolate and nutmeg for that characteristically sweet and fruity palate of the Spey. But beyond the whisky, each bottle comes with a set of three limited-edition giclée prints by artist Michelle Lucking to visually transport you to the natural beauty of The Macallan's home.
It’s all in the foam with this one. The New Balance 1080V13 is fitted with a thick rubber outsole to help increase its durability in high-wear areas. There’s also its midsole that’s made for incredible comfort thanks to its bio-based Fresh Foam X material. There’s no doubt you’d be able to breeze through your daily training runs in these without needing to worry about post-run aches.
Twenty-five years ago, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones were the first to circle the globe nonstop in a hot air balloon. Their timepiece of choice? Breitling’s Orbiter 3, clocking in 45,633km in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes. To commemorate that incredible feat, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter is dressed with an orange dial reminiscent of the balloon’s capsule and marked with the mission logo. A piece of the original balloon is also embedded within the watch itself, visible through the open caseback—a piece of history in your hand, literally, to remind you of the indomitable human spirit.
We cannot tell you just how soft Loro Piana cashmere is—it is something you will just have to experience for yourself. This fringed cashmere scarf will keep you warm, whether in an air-conditioned setting or during a winter vacay. It’s that luxe feel that’s akin to being snuggled up by a fluffy kitty. Oh, and that circular gold logo adornment adds a rather spiffy touch too.
We are all familiar with RIMOWA’s signature grooved detailing on its suitcases and accessories by now. But dig deeper into the brand’s archives and you would find the Hammerschlag (the German word for “hammer hit”) that predates the grooves. RIMOWA brought back the textured, polished aluminium series for a limited edition collection. This time, updating it with modern travel functionalities, so that it’s perfect for when you want to escape the rigours of life for a bit.
Photography: Jayden Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Digital Imaging and Retouching: Nguyen Tien Phuc
Photography Assistants: Aisyah Hisham and Brian Neo
Special thanks to Cat Paradise
I first met Robert Spangle, a photographer who goes by the IG handle Thousand Yard Style, at the dandyism lollapalooza known as Pitti Uomo, around a decade ago. That period was peak #menswear: Instagram was relatively new, and Pitti had transformed from a bone-dry trade fair to a well-lubricated orgy of peacockery, with the world’s tailoring aficionados desperately trying to sartorially outgun one another and capture the attention of street photographers such as Tommy Ton, Scott Schuman, and indeed, our man Spangle. (Fallout Boy, if you remember it. Yeah, it was a terrible band, but it had this song that went “This ain’t a scene, it’s a goddamn arms race”, which just about summed it up.)
You’d see Spangle at the Fortezza (the 14th Century Florentine structure where Pitti is held), way off in the distance as his thousand-metre moniker suggests, crouching like a sniper with a long lens, capturing stylish fits, the wearers unawares—giving his imagery , spontaneous vibe lacking in many of the other street style snappers’ posed pics.
A lot of Spangle’s fellow lensmen of that epoch have gone on to create coffee table books documenting stylish metropolitan people looking stylish in a metropolitan setting. Cool, fine. Spangle took a different course for his debut publication, however.
“I’ve been working in fashion for a long time, and one of my theories is that style is an innate part of humanity and what makes us human; that it’s really something inalienable from the human condition. It’s not something that’s dependent on you living in a fashion capital, or even being from a really well-developed country, not even a country that has any kind of social stability. And I thought, ok, if I’m going to have this theory, I’m going to have to prove it,” he explains of the thinking behind his book Afghan Style, which was published last year.
“I had been to Iraq before,” Spangle says with no small degree of understatement—he’d visited to shoot conflict reportage in 2017 and several years earlier, serving in a reconnaissance unit with the US Marines, sussing out the lay of the land in advance of the initial US ‘surges’ of 2010. “I thought Afghanistan would be perfect as a place to prove or disprove this theory, because it was an incredibly poor country, and incredibly isolated—the conflict, the economic isolation and the harsh geography keep most people out. Certainly, this would be a place where, from a Western perspective, you’d expect to find absolutely zero fashion, zero style or any interest in the above.”
Spangle accepted an assignment for a magazine named Esquire (you may be familiar with the masthead, reader) and headed to Afghanistan for a four-to six-week visit. “Once I got there, I realised my theory was right, but my assumptions were wrong—Afghanistan is one of the best environments I’ve ever been in for photographing style, because the level of cultural style, and the value placed on cultural style, is just massive there. It’s everywhere, it’s in all directions.” When he returned from the journey, Spangle says, “I did the hardest photo edit of my entire life. I think I had, like, 120 images that I really couldn’t part with.” It was more than his assignment for Esquire called for. “So then I started thinking about a book.”
Spangle’s publishing plans were nearly scuppered when the Taliban re-took control of Afghanistan in late 2021. He felt the proposed book would lack relevance unless he revisited the country to see how the regime change had affected Afghans’ way of life—and to be able to get a more comprehensive picture of the landscape. Without a return, Spangle says, “I don’t think it would have been a complete document, because the security situation was so bad when I was first there that it was impossible to travel in the country.” He likens that initial visit to going to America and only scoping out New York: “You would get great style, and you would get people from all over the country, but you would not have a complete picture, would you?”
So Spangle went back and visited Afghanistan’s more out-of-the-way regions. What became apparent was, “Afghan men, across the board, are the most proud and self-possessed men I’ve ever met in my entire life,” Spangle says. “It’s kind of mind-blowing, because in the developed world, we always paint impoverished people as, like, grovelling. Yet, in fact, in Afghanistan, every single person you met wanted to look you in the eye and stand on even ground with you—whether they were unemployed, or if they were someone who was better off, like a warlord, they all looked you in the eye, treated you and spoke to you as a man, had total self-confidence.”
Something Spangle loved was, unlike the denizens of Pitti, these guys weren’t dressing for the camera, they weren’t busting rehearsed poses. Yet they looked outstanding. Literally. “How self-possessed these guys were, that blew my mind. And it also made them really easy subjects. I don’t think I’ve had an easier time photographing any group of people on Earth, including places like Pitti Uomo, where people want to be photographed, and I’m sure are practising in the mirror for it,” Spangle says. Afghan gentlemen, meanwhile, “They’re not putting on some kind of show for you. They’re not giving a practised smile—they’re just looking at you as if it’s only natural that you flew 5,000-and-something miles to come and photograph them.”
Just as it’s often the ‘éminences grises’ who stand out at Pitti Uomo—the likes of Lino Ieluzzi, Yukio Akamine, David Evans and Ignatious Joseph—Spangle says the more seasoned Afghan guys possess remarkable style. “There’s a lot of emphasis on maturity in Afghan culture,” he explains. “So young boys, boys, men, mature men: those are really, really big social demarcations in Afghanistan, and that definitely affects the way they dress. You’ve got guys who are like, probably 60-year-old horse hands, who I photographed a few seconds after they dusted off the places that they were sleeping on the ground the night before, using a tarp for a sleeping bag. And they look like a senior stylist at RRL or something, wearing a crazy tweed overcoat and a really cool vest. And for a guy who’s, like, working with horses and sleeping on the ground, they’re just immaculately presented.”
What can we here in Singapore learn from the way Afghan men dress and carry themselves? Clearly, confidence and self-possession are key. Make eye contact. Be a stand-up guy. Don’t be defined by your job or income. Plus, the Afghan sartorial stance—based around the timeless perahan tunban (an ensemble of long popover tunic shirt and loose trousers)—has proven, over the course of centuries, to be highly efficient in a hot, sunny environment. And Spangle says we shouldn’t shy from what some might describe as ‘cultural appropriation’. “I think cultural appropriation is basically what fashion is,” he says. “Fashion is doing what humans do, which is borrowing what we think is cool”—whether you’re gathering your sartorial inspiration from the dandies of Pitti or the horsemen of Helmand.
All photos courtesy of Robert Spangle.
There was absolutely no stopping the fans in Seoul, South Korea last month from capturing a glimpse of their Korean idols at RIMOWA's official debut of its new seasonal colours—Mint and Papaya. It may have been raining in the morning of the event, but fans were already forming behind a barricade; a number of astute individuals had even placed placards with their information the evening before as a way of securing a spot.
RIMOWA's list of invited celebrity guests had everything to do with the congregation of fans. It was a diverse range with third-generation K-pop idols Baekhyun and Xiumin of EXO, Rowoon (formerly of SF9), and Seventeen's S.Coups and Wonwoo, fourth-generation group Treasure's Haruto and Junkyu, Thai actor Mile Phakphum, Lewis Hamilton, and Rosé. It was also the first time that RIMOWA global ambassadors Hamilton and Rosé were brought together for the same event.
The organised chaos outside and inside—as journalists and editors scrambled for content and soundbites—the venue was a reflection of the spirited Mint and Papaya colours. Fresh and inviting, the colours were inspired by the vibrant charm of tropical destinations. Mint, a pastel shade of green, draws inspiration from the hues of buildings typical in tropical cities (a RIMOWA staff also painted a scenography of eating mint ice cream while strolling along the beach). Papaya, on the other hand, is a shade of orange reminiscent of the fruit that it's named after as well as the hue of a beachside sunset.
The duo of colours are predominantly available in RIMOWA's Essential series albeit in different combinations. Mint is available in Cabin, Check-In L and Trunk Plus sizes, while Papaya colours the Cabin, Check-In M and Trunk Plus sizes. Save for the wheels and telescopic handle on each suitcase, both colours appear on every facet for a seamless appearance. A trio of packing cubes are also offered in both colours, as well as a sticker set and luggage charms.
For those who prefer hints of the latest colours, Mint and Papaya are now part of the customisable RIMOWA UNIQUE experience. Wheels, handles, and tags in Mint and Papaya can be fitted onto RIMOWA's Classic suitcases in whatever permutation one sees fit.
But with RIMOWA increasingly becoming more than just a luxury travel accessory brand, Mint brings fresh interpretations of its more lifestyle offerings. The emblematic RIMOWA Personal crossbody bag is updated with a White Gloss polycarbonate body trimmed with Mint-coloured webbing strap as well as a Mint leather interior. The Signature range—newly introduced in November last year—adopts Mint as a Flap Backpack in a large size, and its roomy Duffle bag, with both designed to easily integrate with any RIMOWA suitcase.
So the question now is: Mint or Papaya? It's not an easy pick. Whichever you end up choosing, RIMOWA's lifetime warranty on all its suitcases (only for those purchased after 25 July 2022) guarantees that there's hardly a wrong choice.
The new RIMOWA seasonal colours Mint and Papaya are now available in boutiques.
Get used to it: Hedi Slimane does what he wants and when he wants it. You've got to respect the artistic, image and creative director for his steely focus on a rather singular design aesthetic. The Celine Summer 2024 menswear collection, however, proves that for all the iconic things that Slimane has done, he can still craft fresh interpretations within his sphere of vision. And in this case, it's rather femme.
The standard Slimane look is still evident in the Summer of 2024. Impeccable menswear tailoring finished off with skinny ties are nods to his Dior Homme era, but this time, elevated with rhinestones that seem to give off their own luminescence.
There's a heavy focus on leather. Like trousers with a slight flare to the end as well as some of the collection's more standout moments. For example, a beautiful leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out that's inspired by 17th-century French court royalty. If that's not enough, more feminine nuances abound in the collection. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers take an exaggerated ribbon-like form that wraps around the waist. In one look, a new take on a leather biker jacket is designed with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seem to levitate away from the body.
Add embellishments that are Slimane signatures, and you have a line that's the most feminine. See it as stage-ready uniforms for some of rock and roll's greats like David Bowie and Mick Jagger.
There is reason why Loewe is one of the most anticipated shows each season. It has more to do with the out-of-the-box ideas that creative director Jonathan Anderson concocts each time rather than the celebrities that turn up for them (and trust us, there's been an increasing number of them). The fact that some of the celebrities would choose to wear the runway pieces days after they're presented is testament to the fresh and boundary-pushing silhouettes.
For Spring/Summer 2024, the key highlight of the collection comes in the form of very high-waisted trousers that reach, at least, an inch above the belly button. The result is a dramatically elongated bottom with the torso effectively cut to a 1:3 ratio. Even more dramatic are the ones drenched in rhinestones and when paired with equally bejewelled polo shirts, the look is anything but staid.
While the combination has been getting a lot of media attention due to the number of celebs that have worn variations of it, there's a lot more to the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. There are vests twisted into a giant knot, deliciously oversized outerwear, and even a top that's effectively just secured with a giant pin. Sure, you won't be seeing the latter out in the streets on a normal weekday but the idea that something as conceptual as that could still be somewhat desirable to a fashion-loving audience clamouring for new perspectives is pretty inspiring.
Anyone who appreciates knitwear knows that there are almost limitless possibilities in what can be crafted from yarns. Automatons are indeed available to spit out a piece of knitwear in as little time as possible. But the creation of intricate pieces is often done by hand and, as this season shows, results in truly stunning works of art.
Even at its simplest—as with a Gucci number in shades of blues and white—knit can have beautiful textures, adding depth to an exaggerated drop shoulder and a side-shoulder zip for unlimited styling capabilities. Bottega Veneta presents an array of knits that each display a different technique and skill. In one, the knitting is purposely twisted and warped to create a unique irregular pattern. In another, it presents itself as an abstract interpretation of the House's Intrecciato leather technique.
Alexander McQueen takes it up a few notches, at least in terms of visual appeal. While several knits employ some on-brand deconstruction, it's the crochet vests that are just stunning. Florals for Spring is groundbreaking when done through a three-dimensional crochet consisting of a collage of flora. Even in its more single-hued variation, the textures stand out in the best ways possible.
Chanel may have adopted tweed as an enduring icon of the house and in the process, feminised the material. But in actuality, tweed began in the masculine domain. Invented by Scottish farmers in the 18th century, tweed was a means of keeping warm during the harsh winters. Its characteristically rough-hewn texture is designed to be weather-resistant—locking in heat and wicking away water.
Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones reimagined tweed for its Summer 2024 collection. His penchant for merging the traditionally feminine codes of the Dior house with contemporary menswear is amped up with tweed woven into the emblematic Cannage motif. It's then used on everything from outerwear to cardigans and couture-level tailoring.
Jones did not attempt at all to masculinise the material. Instead, he employs tweed as an example of the Dior Men aesthetic that he's built where the unexpected combination of tradition and the contemporary is married with the rich history of the house.
The Summer 2024 ready-to-wear pieces aren't the only ones where tweed is used, and thankfully so. Bags—spot the complete tweed iteration that's a more luxurious take on the outdoor backpack—and shoes, like loafers and sneakers, make full use of tweed's function-meets-aesthetic traits. You wouldn't be caught dead in a full tweed look in the summer—and you shouldn't—but the individual pieces look good enough to bust out now and then for an elevated sense of style.
Anthony Vaccarello has decided that Spring/ Summer 2024 is the season for the man-cleavage. The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 menswear collection is replete with scoop-neck tops that highlight all the chest-pumping work you've been religiously focusing on at the gym. While Vaccarello's offerings may appear somewhat extreme (they're cut just inches away from a potential nip-slip) there's no denying that there's a certain level of sex appeal. Versace reckons so too with its silk tanks affording almost the same level of chest-baring proclivity.
Before you scoff at the design choice as simply something done by brands that are more fashion-forward than others, you'd be surprised to know that even Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are in on it too. The former stuck to a no-inner-under-suits look that crops up ever so often, while Emporio Armani embraced the chest with open shirting and waistcoats that are cut above the belly button.
Take this as the reverse crop top trend. Baring your chest is more forgiving than wearing a cropped top. It's much harder to achieve visible, three-dimensional abs than it is to get a decent defined chest. And the best thing is, you could get away with letting the chest breathe a little in public without drawing too much negative attention from wearing a cropped top.
There's some gender-equality debate to be had here for sure but at the end of the day, do what feels right for you. Trends come and go but style is everlasting—or something to that effect.
Read on for part one of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
