Considering that RIMOWA has been around for more than a century now, it's inevitable that the brand has evolved. What started out as a brand famed for pioneering aluminium and polycarbonate for use in suitcases—effectively changing the way people travel—is now a luxury lifestyle brand that still puts materiality, innovation and craftsmanship at the forefront.
RIMOWA's biggest shift was in 2020 when it launched its first series of lifestyle bags and accessories parked under the Never Still line. The soft, canvas constructions are trimmed with nylon and leather for hardy, urban-driven solutions that extend the brand's ethos of functional tools for a lifetime of movement beyond the travel space. Around the same time, a collaboration with Dior introduced the Personal case, which is essentially an Original suitcase shrunken into a crossbody bag or clutch, that now remains part of RIMOWA's core offerings and has birthed a Sling Clutch iteration. And just last year, the RIMOWA Signature line was launched with sustainable regenerated nylon as its base material.
Now, four years since its evolution into lifestyle bags and accessories, RIMOWA returns to its game-changing lightweight aluminium innovation for its first unisex handbag, the Original Bag.
Right off the bat, the design of the RIMOWA Original Bag is distinctively RIMOWA—the grooved design emblematic of the brand, the seamless colour-matched aesthetic, and the rounded reinforced corners. Like the Personal, you could consider it as a mini-sized Original suitcase but constructed and designed with updated functionality to adapt for its handbag use. It's crafted in aluminium with a leather handle that's further reinforced with an aluminium frame so that it's both comfortable and sturdy to hold on to as a top-handle bag. A branded webbing strap is included for added versatility so that it can be used as a shoulder bag or a crossbody bag.
Because the Original suitcases' locking mechanism wouldn't make complete sense to be adapted for a handbag (imagine having to fiddle with two clamps every few minutes), RIMOWA devised a new button mechanism that facilitates easy opening and closing of the Original Bag. And if you're familiar with the Original suitcases' handles that snap down flat with that rather satisfying clack, the same mechanism would be a potential annoyance for something that you'd reach for far often than a suitcase. The top handle on the RIMOWA Original Bag stays upright so you're able to grab it and go with ease, but it can also lay flat for a more sleek silhouette when not carried as a handbag. All very clearly thoughtfully crafted.
The interior of the Original Bag is fully lined with Italian-made leather with a roomy compartment. Considered touches include a zipped pocket as well as slots for cards; there's ample space for all that you'd need on the daily to go about your way.
This is a new chapter for RIMOWA and the Original Bag is most certainly just the beginning. You could say that this new design is a longtime coming but as they say, good things come to those who wait. And, boy, isn't this a good one.
The RIMOWA Original Bag in Silver and Black is now available at RIMOWA stores as well as online.
Elsa Peretti never dreamed of having castles in the sky, nor did she wish for money to grow on trees. Despite coming from wealth, the Italian model-turned-designer found herself financially cut off at 21 and had to work her way up. She supported herself by teaching Italian and skiing before deciding to try her hand at modelling, which led her to New York. There, new opportunities unfolded allowing her to showcase her talents.
Peretti began creating pieces for American fashion designer Halston and even had the opportunity to wear them on his runway. Halston later introduced her to Tiffany & Co., and whether it was luck or her undeniable talent, it only took 15 minutes for her to be hired. And five decades later, her work remains iconic and celebrated.
To mark the 50th anniversary of Peretti's icon, the House launched the Bone cuff as part of its "With love, Since 1837" campaign. Reintroduced earlier this year, the campaign celebrates the love, craftmanship and rich heritage that defines Tiffany & Co. and is inspired by legendary window designer Gene Moore. It sheds light on the untold stories behind Tiffany's most iconic jewellery collections while modernising Moore's famous vitrines with imaginative storytelling.
The "With love, Since 1837" campaign imagery draws inspiration from Moore's whimsical window displays, merging the extraordinary with the ordinary. The Bone cuff imagery, specifically, nods to Peretti's cultural impact in fashion as well as design. A floating hand gesturing upward references her signature modelling poses, and a ladybug perched on the index finger, pays tribute to the famed Bone cuff advertisement shot by Hiro, Peretti's close friend and photographer.
The Bone cuff remains as modern and timeless as ever with its sensual, sculptural form. The design is carefully sculpted to fit the contours of both the left and right wrists to allow for the cuff to seamlessly blend with the body. It has since been adapted into a number of other designs, bearing in mind the same design intent.
Like the Bone cuff, the Bone ring showcases Peretti's talent to transform simple forms into symbols of beauty and elegance. The Split ring adds a subtle edge with its central split while still retaining every bit of Peretti's Bone cuff curvatures.
Few designs stand the test of time, but Peretti's jewellery continue to captivate with enduring style and beauty.
The Tiffany & Co. Bone Cuff by Elsa Peretti collection is now available in stores and online.
It was on 10 April 2020 that Clare Waight Keller announced she was leaving Givenchy after serving the Maison for three years. Waight Keller was Givenchy's first-ever female creative director, and while that seemed to be the headlining achievement (partriachy, everybody), her time at the Maison was a creative breath of fresh air while paying homage to founder Hubert de Givenchy. Her designs—across womenswear, menswear, and haute couture—paid due reverence to the heritage of Givenchy while making them relevant in the modern context. Under Waight Keller, men's haute couture too became a more prominent pillar for the Maison.
For four years, Stefano Pilati served as head of design of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture (now simply rebranded as Zegna) where he made full use of the brand's mastery in fabrics to create menswear collections that would certainly qualify as "quiet luxury" in today's context. Pilati's creations were undoubtedly luxurious both in aesthetic as well as feel with designs that pushed Ermenegildo Zegna beyond the confines of traditional menswear.
Both Waight Keller and Pilati—albeit different in styles—share a similarity in that they both followed the traditional path of cutting their teeth at several fashion houses before eventually holding creative reins. Waight Keller started out as part of the design team at Calvin Klein before moving on to Ralph Lauren and then Gucci, while Pilati took on design roles at Giorgio Armani, Prada, Miu Miu, and Yves Saint Laurent. And of course, they're both celebrated fashion designers in their own right.
It's curious then that with the kind of experience and design excellence they both possess, Waight Keller and Pilati weren't snapped up by another big-named fashion house.
Then last year, Waight Keller announced her first solo venture: a new partnership with Uniqlo called Uniqlo : C. The brand—like most under Uniqlo's LifeWear umbrella—focuses on building a capsule wardrobe of staple pieces seen through her designer lens. It was launched with womenswear before introducing menswear in its third season this month. And then two weeks later, Uniqlo announced that Waight Keller's involvement has expanded to not only be the creative behind Uniqlo : C, but also as its creative director for the entirety of the Uniqlo mainline collection beginning from the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.
Pilati launched his own brand Random Identities in 2017 through Instagram. Inspired by Berlin's club scene and the ongoing shift of gendered clothing, Random Identities is stocked on SSENSE.com, Dover Street Market and a number of other select stockists. Much like Waight Keller with Uniqlo, Random Identities is also a departure from the luxury pricing of Pilati's former creations. The brand is certainly more affordable yet still with a design point-of-view. Pilati is doubling down on affordable fashion by recently embarking on a capsule collection with Zara slated for an October 2024 release.
Designer collaborations are rife in fashion, especially the likes that have been pushed by fast-fashion brands such as H&M and Zara. Uniqlo, in fact, has turned its collaborations into longstanding partnerships with Christophe Lemaire, Jonathan Anderson as well as Inès de la Fressange. And quite like with Waight Keller, Lemaire eventually became the creative director of the design-forward Uniqlo U line.
But designers moving out of luxury to more affordable fashion brands as their solo ventures is something that's quite uncommon.
In a 2023 interview with W Magazine, Waight Keller highlighted that the jump from working in a couture house to a brand like Uniqlo was challenging but only in achieving certain techniques at the latter's usual price point. "The brand was so open to understanding new techniques of finishing. I showed them examples of, this is how the spaghetti string that runs through the dresses should look; this is how it should balance. A lot of the things I did on a constant basis whilst I was in Paris are techniques that I was able to distribute through the collection as well. It’s just an innate way of working, or what I’ve absorbed over the years," she said. According to WWD, Pilati expressed similar sentiments about his time working with Zara, especially with the brand's capability of producing at standards above its price point.
It remains to be seen how Waight Keller's Uniqlo and Pilati's co-ed collection for Zara will each shape up to be, and whether the latter could inspire Zara to hire Pilati as its creative director. But what's certain is that there is still hope out there for honed skill and talent of real fashion designers in the fashion space. It may not be at the big fashion houses, but in the bigger scheme of things, they're helping to elevate the designs of pieces for the everyday and for everyone.
It might be odd to think that something as angular as this tote is called the Rocking Horse. The name actually refers to the line’s initial bag designs constructed with a curved base that allows them to easily rock like a rocking horse, and are distinguished by the “b” closure. Its tote incarnation keeps things classic with a briefcase-like silhouette for some serious corporate-appropriate style chops.
We could all do with some added height and when it comes to heeled boots, hardly anything comes close to Hedi Slimane’s versions for CELINE. These are cut in a familiar Chelsea shape for fuss-free slipping in and off and the pointed toes immediately help to elongate the legs further. Also, peep that subtle Triomphe branding right at the ankle—an extra touch of if-you-know-you-know branding.
Gucci’s connection with London’s The Savoy goes all the way back to when founder Guccio Gucci worked as a porter at the famed hotel. The experience prompted him to found his own luggage atelier upon his return to Florence (no guesses what that eventually turned into). This cabin trolley is a nod to the very beginnings of Gucci, but of course, updated with wheels and a telescopic handle. When not in use, it makes for quite an ornamental interior piece much like a classic travel trunk.
Nothing comes close to being as classic and unbelievably versatile as a pair of leather lace-ups. You’d easily be able to dress them up or down and they go with just about anything. Tod’s may be known for its pebble-soled Gomminos but the comfort of its footwear translates even to something as sturdy as a pair of leather lace-ups. The lugged rubber sole gives it a more contemporary flair and traipses the line between formal and casual seamlessly.
The TUDOR Black Bay is an icon. And like most icons, it requires little tweaking. This latest iteration keeps all the design aesthetics with a monochromatic intent that successfully highlights every detail to perfection. The black sunburst dial is undoubtedly subtle but perfect for a timepiece you would want to put on every day, for any occasion.
RIMOWA’s Personal crossbody bag receives a new seasonal colour in a stunning shade of emerald green, and it’s quite honestly one of the more eye-catching shades in its aluminium series yet. The shell is wrapped around leather straps in a darker shade of green that matches the leather interior, and the palladium hardware contrasts beautifully against the rich hue. It could be an intimidating colour to wear but match this with neutrals for a surefire way of pulling it off.
With an Art Deco-inspired bottle design, you would think that Penhaligon’s The Dandy is somewhat of a traditional, masculine fragrance—heavy, woody and mildly overbearing to most. Yet, the fragrance surprises by being woody without that heavy lingering of intensity. The hints of warm, spicy notes cut through slightly after a while for a more balanced take on a liquor-forward scent. The Dandy is definitely more of an evening scent but its lightweight quality could just as easily be used in the day too.
Never underestimate the power of a scarf, especially one with hand-rolled trims and in colours that will never go out of style. Loro Piana updates the paisley print with bold, stark lines for a more elevated look. It’s a cashmere-silk blend that’s incredibly lightweight yet will definitely provide some warmth should you need it; or wear it loosely around the neck (in as many permutations as you could think of) to simply add a touch of irreverent elegance to an outfit.
The beauty of a Loewe candle is that the moment the wax completely burns off, the ceramic vessel can be used in a myriad of ways, all while looking like a piece of art. The latest Wasabi scent is one of the line’s more intense offerings with its green and spicy notes reminiscent of that first whiff of a spoonful of wasabi. Fair warning: this may make you crave for some sushi.
Yes, you don’t necessarily need a card case any more since everything is pretty much be done with your mobile. But neither do you need a watch nowadays too. It’s all about the aesthetics and this piece by Saint Laurent is a slim iteration with four card slots (just right). It also comes with a detachable strap you’d able to secure around a belt loop or wear around the neck as an accessory. The design is clever—the card slots are enveloped within a leather housing for added security.
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Asri Jasman
Photography Assistants: Aliy Alam and Syed Abdullah
New York Fashion Week goes by fast with a number of emerging as well as established brands packing up the schedule this time around. Quintessential American brand Coach—a brand experiencing a resurgence on social media thanks to its latest slate of leather bags—is readying its co-ed Spring 2025 runway show, hoping to capitalise on the moment.
Creative director Stuart Vevers has been at the helm of the brand for more than 10 years now and consistently taps on the spirit of New York City, combining it with the fervour and artistry of its famed inhabitants as well as offering newness for a wide range of audience. It does seem like (and rightly so) that the Spring 2025 collection will be in the same vein as previous collections and perhaps with a slight skater vibe as seen in teasers. What's to definitely look out for though are the leather bags that could potentially spark another uptick in demand in the upcoming season.
For confirmation of what the Coach Spring 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Tuesday live from New York Fashion Week.
What: Coach Spring 2025 runway show
Where: New York City
When: Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 4am Singapore time
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's hard to find truly wearable merchandise these days. Most of them come off as tacky or cringeworthy, with oversized brand logos splashed across the entire piece... I can't describe any further but if that's relatable, lemme introduce a collection from Desa Potato Head that's actually wearable and stylish. And believe it or not, it's from a hotel (I'm still mildly traumatised by those ClubMed shirts that I wore as a kid so my parents could keep track of me, IYKYK.)
Named one of the World's 50 Best Hotels of 2023, Desa Potato Head is more than just a hotel—it's a creative hub where music, art, food, and wellness converge. Set on the shores of Bali's Petitenget Beach, the 225-room hotel has built a global reputation as a lifestyle and hospitality leader that's now branching into sustainable merchandise.
At the helm of this new venture is Lisa Yamai, the former president and creative director of Snow Peak, who will be bringing her expertise in product development, creative direction and branding to Potato Head. As chief product officer, Yamai is working to bring the hotel's vision to life through its product line.
Potato Head invites customers to bring a piece of the Desa experience with them wherever they go, embodying the brand's distinctive way of life. The collection's prints and graphic designs capture their ethos, "Good Times, Do Good", blending elements of music, art, design, and wellness to reflect the hotel's vibrant and multifaceted identity.
The line includes printed shirts, shorts, beachwear, and rainy season gear, all made from recyclable, bio-based, and organic materials. This eco-conscious approach highlights Potato Head's commitment to making a positive impact, without sacrificing style or quality.
Priced from USD52, the collection will be available at Desa Potato Head and online.
When TOMORROW X TOGETHER made their way to Paris for the closing of the Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2024 show season in January this year, they were given the complete Dior experience. The quintet did the usual touristy things—visiting the Louvre and strolling around the Seine—but also had the opportunity to visit La Galerie Dior, the exhibition space located within the House's iconic 30 Avenue Montaigne address.
Throughout their adventures around Paris, TOMORROW X TOGETHER were dressed completely in Dior Men, ranging from artistic director Kim Jones' more casual streetwear-leaning proposals to impeccable tailoring that stayed true to the haute couture spirit of the House. The latter was on elegant display as the group entered (to a cacophony of screams and camera clicks, no less) the show space of the Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show at Paris' École Militaire in the city's seventh arrondissement.
TOMORROW X TOGETHER's outfits were a calculated move, both by the group as well as the House. Tapping on his own personal experiences and roots—as he often does time and time again at Dior Men—Jones' inspiration for the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection revolved around the perceived reality of a ballet dancer's life versus the actual reality of it. The ballet dancer in question is Soviet-born Rudolf Nureyev, one of the most renowned male ballet dancers in the world and just so happens to be a friend of Jones' uncle, photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones.
Before delving deeper into the inspiration behind the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection, it's important to note that the very beginnings of the collection was an exploration of Monsieur Dior's own relationship with ballet. English ballerina Margot Fonteyn is said to have first discovered the house of Dior in 1948 while on a trip to Paris and became a fan of its creations. A friendship with Monsieur Dior naturally developed and Fonteyn often chose to wear Dior on numerous occasions.
This is where an almost unbelievable happenstance begins. Fonteyn's most famous dance partner is none other than Nureyev—effectively linking Monsieur Dior and Jones in the most amazing way.
"When Colin became a photographer, he maintained strong links to the ballet world and, in 1966, Time Life asked him to document a day in the life of Nureyev, regarded by some as the greatest male ballet dancer of his generation. Bonded through their shared history and mutual sense of fun and mischief, the pair went on to forge a great friendship," explains Jones.
The resulting Dior Men Winter 2024 is one of contrasts: the difference between ready-to-wear and couture, between onstage and backstage, and between the life of Nureyev theatrically and in reality. "Here, it is a meeting of the dancer's style with that of the Dior archive," expresses Jones.
There's no doubt that Jones is already more than familiar with crafting from points of contrasts. His oeuvre at Dior Men has always been merging elegant signatures from the archives with contemporary stylings. The Winter 2024 collection takes references from Saint Laurent's time at Dior, translating the late designer's tailored volumes, vents, pleats and necklines. The iconic Bar jacket created by Monsieur Dior is contextualised once again, this time, combined with Jones' very own Oblique tailoring.
While the runway collection is imbued with more extravagant flounces as well as the debut of Dior Men's haute couture—as nods to Nureyev's theatrical career—the dramatic flair as seen on TOMORROW X TOGETHER are more nuanced. '60s- and '70s-inspired tailoring are cut with a rigid straightforwardness, especially in the single-breasted variations, that are then paired with gently flared trousers. Conversely, the collection's more commercial pieces lend a more streetwear air. Take this as the contemporary equivalent of a dancer's off-duty look with slouchy cardigans and hoodies worn over essential white T-shirts and paired with the roomiest of trousers.
It may be a stretch to compare the duality of Nureyev's life with that of TOMORROW X TOGETHER's, given that the former didn't have to contend with the accessibility of social media and in turn, the almost instant, global fame achieved by TOMORROW X TOGETHER. Yet, what remains a similarity is in the versatility and adaptability of both to weave in and out of their lives onstage and off that echo that contrast of two opposing worlds within the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Animation: Joan Tai
London is a city of manifold facets, and there's a home-grown fashion brand that represents every last one. On occasion, they align—taking the city's fluid, mutable nature as inspiration. The latest example of such a collab is between the respective figureheads of the metropolis' punk and skateboarding subcultures: Vivienne Westwood and Palace.
Following a teaser simultaneously posted by both brands' Instagram accounts, a lookbook shot by Shoichi Aoki (founder of FRUITS magazine) for the incoming drop—what's seemingly the first of a series of collections—has revealed its vibe.
Suitably, it's very Camden x Southbank.
For those who reside outside the M25, that means oversized graphic tees and shirts styled with slightly slouchy utilitarian trousers and conspicuously avant-garde accessories; co-ord denim, co-ord tartan and co-ord graphic sweats; and lots and lots of opportunity for layering. This is England, remember.
“This collection is a true reflection of our shared values and influences,” says Palace co-founder Gareth Skewis, “bringing together two distinct perspectives united by a common ground of independent thought, all with a uniquely London twist.”
“It felt natural for us to join forces, it was a very playful exercise,” adds Vivienne Westwood's creative director, Andreas Kronthaler.
The sharp-eyed will spot that the collection is littered with Palace and Westwood earmarks of past and present. Of course, the Vivienne orb makes several appearances; as does the Palace triangle.
Beyond that, the nods are more obscure. For example, a print named "salon" that harks back to Vivienne Westwood SS92 decorates several pieces, including a Gore-Tex jacket made ready for wandering through bustling markets and strolling beside the Thames this autumn.
Palace x Vivienne Westwood launches in the brands' respective boutiques—including their webstores.
Originally published on Esquire UK
Everything about Liam Gallagher is suddenly hot news. As announced last week, the famously opinionated Mancunian Brit-pop tearaway will heal a famous 15-year rift with his brother Noel and go back on tour with Oasis in 2025. In the UK and around the world, news of an end to the most notorious sibling rivalry since records began is driving a positive meme storm as fans adjust to the new and unfamiliar reality.
Gallagher may have softened a bit since the ’90s, when Oasis was the defining—and defiant—voice of the decade. But one thing he hasn’t softened on is his love for Stone Island, the Italian brand that has been part and parcel of Britain’s urban DNA since the mid-1980s. And as if to underline it, Gallagher is the official frontman for the brand’s latest billboard and media campaign, shot by David Sims. (Art-directed by Ferdinando Verderi, this campaign—which launched in spring of 2024—is an evolution of the iconic creative work made by Nick Griffiths and Simon Foxton in concert with brand director Sabina Rivetti, which was a Stone Island staple from 2008 to 2023.)
Shot against industrial white, Gallagher is dressed in a well-used Stone Island archival anorak, made of cotton canvas coated in thick, matte PVC, that dates to Stone Island’s second or third season. That’s 1983, by the way. Were it not for the obvious signs of wear, Gallagher’s anorak might easily pass for a piece from last winter’s collection. That’s 2023.
Because as a slice of urban mythology, Stone Island has always evolved at its own speed, on its own terms, and with a middle finger perennially cocked at capital “F” fashion. Die-hard fans would argue—and we’re inclined to agree—that it isn’t a fashion brand at all.
Launched in 1982 by streetwear visionary Massimo Osti, Stone Island (along with its progenitor, CP Company, founded in 1971) established a new way of making clothes and an entirely different way of thinking about getting dressed amidst a one-dimensional Italian fashion industry that was all about tailored, patrician cool.
In Europe—and in Italy and the UK particularly—the clothing resonated quickly and deeply on the street. It was expensive and hard to come by, which only added to its cachet. Distinct from mainstream fashion, it was an industrial uniform of sorts, recognisable to those in the know—a hardcore “Stoney” cognoscenti that now, all these years later, ranges from slim 20-year-olds up to paunchy men in their 60s.
Everything for Stone Island is about the product rather than trends. There are two factors that matter: design and textile research. The garments emulate the functionality of military and industrial clothing rather than the predictable suit and tie, and they’re made from highly specialised performance fabrics and finishes dreamed up in-house and unavailable from anyone else.
Since 2020, the 42-year-old brand has been owned by Moncler’s Remo Ruffini, functioning as a separate entity but benefitting from the broader infrastructure and marketing reach of the Moncler group. Creatively, little has changed. Longtime owner Carlo Rivetti, who came on board in the early ’80s, is still chairman of the board, helping preserve the fashion-outsider vibe while cultivating a larger audience, especially in the US. In the campaign, Gallagher is joined by actor Russell Tovey, DJ Peggy Gou and musician Sage Elsesser, suggesting that the brand still has the bona fides to onboard new generations without alienating the diehards.
Read on for Gallagher’s Q&A with the Stoney folks, pulled directly from the new campaign.
Question 21 of 100
What do you collect?
Just souls.
Question 28 of 100
What is your favorite season?
Football season.
Question 29 of 100
What is your favorite time of day?
I get up at four or five in the morning. Then I’m just waiting for something fucking spectacular to happen.
Question 36 of 100
What is your favorite city in the world?
Manchester City. And Manchester the city.
Question 38 of 100
Do you prefer the desert, forest, mountain, or beach?
Any of them as long as there’s a cheeky little bar.
Question 39 of 100
What advice would you give your younger self?
Life’s been great. It’s had its ups and downs. But at the end of the day, you are playing it.
Question 75 of 100
Classic or modern or both?
All this news stuff doesn’t do it for me. It all stems from the past, which is classic.
Question 76 of 100
What do you eat for breakfast?
I have porridge for breakfast, then if I’m feeling really rock ’n’ roll I’ll have some almonds on it and a bit of honey.
Question 80 of 100
What are you grateful for?
Everything. I fucking love being alive. It’s amazing.
Originally published on Esquire UK
Noel Gallagher once claimed you could tell how many drugs Oasis were on by the clothes they wore on stage. The more ridiculous the coats, the greater the cocaine intake.
Liam Gallagher took a different view.
“I’m me in the supermarket,” he said. “The same clothes, the same haircut, the same shades on, when I’m fucking gardening or picking the kids up from school or dropping ’em off. I’m the same, there’s no double-life. I am what I am.”
It wouldn’t be hard to take issue with Gallagher Jnr’s dress sense over the last 30 years—there have been quite a lot of bad clothes, bad haircuts, bad shades and bad gear you’d think twice about wearing to the supermarket, doing the gardening in, let along picking the kids up from school or dropping them off. But it would be a brave soul who’d argue against Liam’s influenced on fashion for the British male.
For a significant swathe of men, the Oasis singer’s mod-adjacent “parka monkey” look has become Route One to effortless cool. Seasons come and seasons go, but there is a corner of an England that will forever be Knebworth, 1996.
And with some judicious editing of three decades worth of Liam’s photographs, there’s plenty of evidence to suggest that—yeah, on his good days, Liam looked pretty cool, actually.
He is what he is.
And you can’t really argue with that.
Originally published on Esquire UK
Michael Keaton knows a thing or two about wearing black. He is Batman, after all. This week at the Venice Film Festival, though, he wasn't repping the Caped Crusader but another creature of the night: the ghost with the most, accomplished "bio-exorcist," and returning big-screen star Betelgeuse. Still, at the photo-call for Beetlejuice Beetlejuice, Keaton hosted a master class on how to pull off one of the trickier stunts in the menswear repertoire and dress up a black shirt.
The secret to Keaton's success? He zagged where others zig. Most of the time, when you see an actor on the red carpet wearing a black shirt, he's opted for a black dress shirt in crisp, somewhat sheeny cotton poplin. Keaton, on the other hand, paired his textured sport coat and drawstring trousers with a black polo shirt. It made all the difference.
Yes, as we have acknowledged in the past, a black dress shirt can occasionally look fantastic. But it can also make you look like you're about to seat a four-top at the local Italian joint that overcharges for shaken martinis and microwaved eggplant parm. Making it work is a pro-level move, is what we're saying.
Dressing up a black polo shirt, though? That's a cinch. You simply... wear it. And pair it with an outfit that lends it more gravitas than, say, something you'd wear to down a couple daytime G&Ts with the boys at the country club. So skip the brass-button blazer and chinos and take your cues from Keaton. Darker colours and a tonal palette create a more elevated vibe, while a healthy infusion of texture is a nice way to lean into the literal feel of a polo, which is often made from nubby cotton piqué. (This is not the time for some stretchy "performance" material) And since you remember you can only get so dressy when a polo shirt is involved, feel free to do as Keaton does and anchor the whole look with classic black sneakers.
You may not be Batman or Betelgeuse, but trust us: You can absolutely be the person who wears a black polo shirt as well as the man who's played them both.
Originally published on Esquire US
We've long been accustomed to Western and European influences dominating pop culture and fashion. However, in recent years, Asian cultures have made profound impacts. They have steadily carved out their own distinctive niches. K-pop and anime have exploded in popularity, showcasing the nuanced aesthetics of traditional and contemporary Asian design. Chinese social media platforms like Douyin (Chinese TikTok) and Little Red Book (Xiao Hong Shu) are also driving this cultural shift, further amplifying Asia's influence. These platforms are shaping global trends and influencing consumer behaviour.
As you explore this list of Asian menswear brands, you'll find yourself immersed in a new world of fashion. There's no mere mimicking of Western styles; instead, it is a pioneering of unique and innovative approaches ripe for exploration and appreciation.
Post Archive Faction (PAF), a South Korean brand founded in 2018, is known for its utilitarian garments made from performance-specific materials. However, labelling it simply as an outdoor brand would not do it justice. PAF offers more than practical clothing, which likely led to it being shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2021.
The brand has showcased at Paris Fashion Week and launched a collaboration with Off-White, partnering with the late Virgil Abloh. Its "left, right and centre" approach to collections stands out the most, inspired by South Korea's political system. Each collection features a numbering system, indicating updates to previous models and designs.
Established in 2021 by Kartik Kumar, Kartik Research is an artisanal brand based in New Delhi, India. With a mission to "reintroduce humanness into clothing," it counters fast fashion's overproduction by prioritising craftsmanship and quality. Its collection showcases a human touch, with handcrafted shirting and quilts dyed using plants and herbs. Each piece bears hand-stitched embroidered details, embodying uniqueness and imperfection. Kartik Research strives to revive forgotten Indian craftsmanship, offering a blend of heritage and contemporary aesthetics.
Each collection draws inspiration from a subculture within India's heritage. The latest Autumn/Winter 2024 collection titled "Delhi-Jodhpur", explores the fractured dialogue of India. The collection blends emotional connections to India's past with optimism for its future. Shot at a sandstone mine in Jodhpur, it symbolises this dialogue, juxtaposing the aesthetic utopia of the past with the realities of modern commerce.
After graduating from Central Saint Martins in London, Taiga Takahashi moved to New York to hone his skills. Starting with cloth and textile, he expanded his practice to include sculpture, architecture, installation, and performance. Takahashi's work embodies a philosophy inspired by the ancient Japanese sense of beauty, refined through time and historical relics.
Describing himself as a "sartorial archaeologist," he draws inspiration from his extensive archive of American garments spanning the 18th to 20th centuries. In his designs, he transforms elements from these archives with each garment telling its own unique story.
In his art, cloth serves as a canvas where craft, design, history, and art converge seamlessly. This concept drove him to found his label T.T Gion in New York in 2017, and later established an integrated Kyoto-based art space and Tea Ceremony in December 2021.
Unfortunately, Takahashi passed away unexpectedly in the spring of 2022. His team continues his legacy, designing garments that draw from the past, are made for the present, and will endure into the future.
Doublet, the streetwear brand founded by Masayuki Ino in 2012, won the LVMH Grand Prize in 2018. Its debut Spring/Summer collection was unveiled in 2013, featuring casual daily wear infused with a sense of uniqueness. The novelty and unique details enhance the avant-garde and distinctly Japanese character of its designs.
The brand has showcased its collections at Tokyo Fashion Week and, as of summer 2022, Paris Fashion Week. Doublet has 25 stockists worldwide including Dover Street Market. Despite the fast-growing presence of the brand, it manages to maintain its relatively underground presence.
In 2016, Liu Dan Xia (Dan) and Shan Peng Wong (Shan) founded Danshan. The design duo strive to disregard gender archetypes and instead explore what is beneath the façade of machoism and strength. Danshan delves into the nuanced aspects of contemporary male existence, dissecting the evolution of male body language and investigating methods to imbue a masculine silhouette with femininity, all while respecting the traditional boundaries of menswear.
Growing up during the era of the "Single Child policy" in China, where sons were often favoured, Dan was raised as a boy by her family until the age of 12 due to societal pressures. Her unorthodox upbringing profoundly influences the brand's ethos, manifesting in garments crafted from "softer" fabrics traditionally associated with femininity.
Launched in 2021 by designer Hung La, Lựu Đạn emerged during the George Floyd protests and Stop Asian Hate movement. The brand delves into the intricacies of Asian identity, symbolised by its name, which combines "pomegranate" and "bullet" in Vietnamese to signify a "dangerous man." Embracing rich-coloured palettes, nostalgic prints, and bold silhouettes, Lựu Đạn pays homage to heritage while celebrating new legacies within its community. Celebrities like Billie Eilish, Justin Bieber, K-pop idols such as Felix (Stray Kids) and Heesung (Enhypen) have been spotted wearing Lựu Đạn.
Born and raised in Taiwan, Peng Tai graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2017 and moved to Paris. His eponymous brand actively explores the relationship between nature, humans, and cities, featuring two distinct lines: the main line and the "meditation room." His design philosophy, deeply rooted in the ancient Chinese principles of yin-yang and the five elements, seeks a precise balance.
Incorporating the five elements—earth, wood, metal, fire, and water—Peng Tai aims to achieve harmony through balanced design. The meditation room line leverages the power of Chinese medicine, using fabrics dyed with Chinese herbal medicine to blend traditional wisdom with contemporary fashion.
Established in 2019 by Danish streetwear enthusiast Tobias Billetoft and Korean designer Sangchan Lee, HGBB STUDIO seamlessly blends regional influences, reflecting their shared ideals. The collections are rooted in utilitarian shapes, enhanced with stylistic flourishes in fabric and detail.
HGBB STUDIO aims to transcend the "visual expression" of established brands by addressing rapidly changing trends and catering to a trend-oriented generation. They strive to carve out a unique identity through diverse projects and collaborations with independent partners.
Phyn Studio epitomises contemporary streetwear with its effortlessly cool vibe and a focus on gender fluidity, crafted by designer Phoenix Tan. Recently, the brand partnered with Levi’s for an upcycle denim workshop, transforming old denim into unique accessories. Tan also curates projects like Morph by Phyn, which deconstructs and reconstructs objects into new forms. Additionally, Phyn Studio collaborated on a capsule line for the 2022 Hennessy x NBA partnership.
Josh Tirados, a Filipino-born, Singapore-based designer and multidisciplinary artist, debuted his gender-neutral label last year with the collection 01-Anino. Working with deadstock fabrics, Tirados handcrafts nearly all his garments. His creations are often characterised as romantic workwear with subtle sensuality, influenced by his background in the Japanese dance form Butoh. They showcase neutral earthy tones, meticulous tailoring, and rustic textures. Alongside his clothing line, Tirados also designs his own jewellery and accessories.
