It's been almost 75 years since the iconic grooves that are now featured in just about every RIMOWA creation was first realised. You'd recognise a RIMOWA design from afar—way before you notice the branded plaque or the monogram—just from the grooves alone.
Save for translating the grooves on a number of different materials throughout the years, including on he Never Still series' nylon as well as the brand's revolutionary polycarbonate designs, RIMOWA hadn't changed the look of the grooves until now.
In a limited-edition release, RIMOWA introduces the Original Cabin Optical. A departure from the clean and straightforward aesthetic that the brand is known for, the Original Cabin Optical disrupts the iconic grooves to create (as its name suggests) an optical illusion throughout the façade. At first glance, it's as if the grooves have been distorted and caused to disappear at parts; but in actuality, they're still present in their original placement. The shimmering effect visible at every single angle tricks the eyes into thinking that the grooves are jumbled up—thanks to alternating brushed and unbrushed finishes on the aluminium.
To mark the significance of this update, RIMOWA isn't restricting itself to just the exterior. The interior of the Original Cabin Optical too receives a new look with the Flex Dividers as well as the lining decorated with a jacquard pattern that mirrors the outside. Also included is a specially designed leather tag in black and featuring the same pattern as a shadowy contrast.
But just how limited is this release? Only 2002 pieces—a palindromic number that's a nod to the idea of perception—are available with each individually numbered and labelled as such. If anything, that tells you how special this release is. And couple with RIMOWA's Lifetime Guarantee, talk about a limited-edition piece for life.
The RIMOWA Original Cabin Optical will be available in stores and online from 7 November 2024.
These days, it's no longer enough to be produce an It bag. The 2000s and their stylings may be back and experiencing a (rather long) resurgence, but the trendy mindset of the times aren't being adopted as much. We're more cognisant of our purchases—buying designs and pieces as investments instead of fleeting of-the-moment wants.
The Hermès Birkin has unwittingly become the benchmark for this enlightened approach to luxury fashion and it's not difficult to see why. It-bag status has been replaced with a flagship investment bag so tied to a fashion house that it's bound to be a perennial hallmark unaffected by trends; the Birkin's continuously sought-after demand and distinct aesthetic has made in an icon of design as well as status.
That's not to say that a fashion house like Balenciaga hasn't had hits or isn't known for a particular style. In fact, the Balenciaga City bag by former creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was an indelible part of the noughties that the House brought it back into rotation since 2021 under a rebranded Le City tag. It also became a point of reference for the Le Cagole line, featuring the former's signature studs. But a Birkin-equivalent, Le City is not.
What makes a bag worthy of being exalted to Birkin status, you ask? For one, a design that's quite unlike any other with elements you'd immediately associate it with. Like the Birkin, an icon hopeful needs to have a versatile everyday appeal and practicality while exuding a sense of elegance—you should just as easily bring it to the office and still stuff it to the brim with groceries and all manner of randomness. Then, there's the potential for it to age and age well, meaning that it has to be made with stellar craftsmanship and material. And of course, there's the aspirational pricing that offers some sort of exclusivity to owning one.
The Balenciaga Bel Air could potentially be Balenciaga's answer to the Birkin.
A completely new design by creative director Demna for Balenciaga, the Bel Air made its first appearance only this year and had already appeared in a campaign fronted by brand ambassadors Isabelle Huppert and Michelle Yeoh, and Naomi Watts in August. In the latest Bel Air campaign, Balenciaga positions the bag as a gender-neutral option with the XL iteration worn by model Kit Butler and Juyeon of K-pop group THE BOYZ.
The Bel Air is in some ways a follow-up to the Balenciaga Rodeo but packed with a bit more functionality. Unlike the latter, the Bel Air is constructed with gussets at the sides that unbuttons to transform it into a roomier piece with extended sides. The front of the Bel Air (like the Rodeo) is interchangeable as well between a clean exterior and that of a more relaxed folded front that's instantly recognisable. Space-wise, the XL version (it's also available in small and medium) is massive with a wide inner zipped compartment and a fully unobstructed interior space.
There's no denying that the Bel Air is well made too. It's crafted from smooth calfskin that's also soft enough to give that supple drape at the front. Yet at the same time, it's a sturdy piece. And going at SGD10,900 for the XL size, it isn't something that's easily accessible to a lot of people.
It may be too soon to predict how the Bel Air will fare in the luxury market. But given all that it has going for it, this could potentially be Balenciaga's next big thing, and if done right, it's very own answer to the Birkin.
A friend recently asked me, “Do you think Nike will make a comeback?”
The question followed an exchange about recent releases by some of its biggest competitors—including Adidas, New Balance and ASICS—that have overshadowed the activities of the Oregon-based sportswear giant.
“It has a few tricks up it sleeve,” I—a big Swoosh advocate—responded.
Said tricks: impending re-releases of its most sought-after grails.
The Air Jordan 1 “Bred”, Undefeated x Air Jordan 4 and PlayStation x Nike Air Force 1 are all said to be returning in 2025.
But before all that, a greater gift to the sneakerheads. Something epic to mark the grand re-opening of the most protected vaults in its archives. A reissue of a kick that has never before been revisited; only 36 pairs were made to the public when it released 25 years ago.
The Wu-Tang Clan Dunk High, ladies and gentleman.
Back in black and pollen—a visual nod to the hip-hop group's affiliates known as the “Killer Beez”—and with Wu's “W” logo embroidered on its lateral heel, it looks just as it did in 1999.
Much like the band's de facto lead, RZA, actually, who we can confirm is in support of the drop. “These sneakers are a trophy,” he expressed to Nike, “[...] and now thousands of people will have a chance to own a pair.”
With that, it sounds like the Dunk High is set to restore its standing and so is Nike.
The Wu-Tang Clan Dunk drops 9 Saturday November on the Nike SNKRS app and select Nike retailers.
Originally published on Esquire UK
When Lewis Hamilton was announced as Dior’s brand ambassador in July this year, it probably came as a shock to no one. The multiple Formula 1 record holder—the man has the most career wins and world championship titles to date—isn’t just a blur on the racetrack, he’s quite the snazzy dresser off of it. Specifically, Hamilton had been spotted wearing Dior Men on multiple occasions while making the F1 Grand Prix circuit this season.
Brand ambassadorships are a well-established concept that works. But at the rate persons of note are being conferred the title, it’s nigh impossible to keep track of who’s affiliated to which brand. What is rare, however, is a brand ambassador whois more than just a physical embodiment of what a brand represents.
Hamilton seems to have a knack for taking his involvement with fashion brands a step further than the norm. With Tommy Hilfiger, Hamilton co-created four TommyXLewis capsule collections from 2018 to 2020, imbuing his own personal sense of style to that of the American brand. And now at Dior Men, he’s charging ahead with a capsule collection designed together with artistic director Kim Jones.
“Working with Kim and the talented team at Dior has been a dream, and I was honoured when Kim asked if I’d like to do this with him. Our values and ideas are aligned, making it easy to bring to life a creative collection infused with our shared experiences,” Hamilton expresses.
The new Dior Men Lifestyle Capsule collection is not F1 , or even racing-related, because that would be far too predictable and Hamilton is a multi-faceted individual. Instead, the collection revolves around skiing and snowboarding as a personal celebration of Hamilton’s love for an outdoor-centric winter lifestyle. He’s an adrenaline junkie and has a love for extreme sports aside from motorsports.
“We share a love of nature, a desire to celebrate Africa and an interest in the artisanal processes and techniques that unite craftspeople in Africa with the savoir-faire of the Dior ateliers. Added to that, this collection also reflects Lewis’ sporting side, his virtuosity and our functionality,” says Jones.
In many ways, the Lifestyle Capsule collection is a global effort. African-inspired motifs are incorporated within the collection (Jones grew up in African countries in his early years), adding vibrancy to technical functionalities. African weaves made in Burkina Faso, for example, have been crafted into casual suiting by the Dior ateliers, and custom snowboards by Switzerland-based Factory 9 feature Dior branding set against graphic African-inspired motifs. The collection’s technical skiwear by Japanese sportswear brand Descente too are made to withstand the harsh cold conditions on the slopes. The expertise rendered by these different “global ateliers” all ensure that not only do the pieces look exceptional and on par with Dior’s craftsmanship, but that they also function on the same level.
Hamilton has taken it a step further by pushing the boundaries of the Dior ateliers in ensuring that sustainability isn’t an afterthought to the creation of the collection. Having been on a plant-based diet since 2017, Hamilton insisted that no animal leather is to be used for any of the pieces in the Lifestyle Capsule collection. He’s pushed for more conscious choices in terms of materiality. The collection’s ready-to-wear such as slouchy denims, knitwear, and fleeces are made partly using organic or recycled textiles. A micro-fibre snow shoe, the Dior Snow derby, has been designed to serve as a casual pair of footwear while simultaneously being capable of performing on the slopes over a snowboard—a cleverly designed versatile pair.
These new touches serve to enhance the collection while retaining the essence of a Kim Jones Dior Men collection. The B44 Blade sneaker is a new addition to Jones’ expanding sneaker offerings for Dior Men. Conceptualised with a decidedly 2000s silhouette in mind, it’s undoubtedly sporty in its allure and rendered in tasteful gradations of colours. It’s too early to say if the design will become a mainstay for Dior Men but it definitely fits in with the existing Dior Men universe.
In an interview with WWD, Jones hints that there will be more to come. “This is almost like a taste, and then we get into bigger collections,” he said of the partnership with Hamilton. And to that, we’ll just have to wait and see what comes next, because this collection, in essence, is quite a game-changer for a house like Dior.
The fact that Tod's has been around for over a century is not lost on those who have ever slipped their feet into its shoes, myself included. Tod’s time-honed expertise and craftsmanship of its artisans are apparent in the make and feel—from the iconic classics to newer iterations developed from its archives.
The deep dives are constant, and why shouldn’t they be? The brand’s heritage is founded on craftsmanship and referencing it only serves to further emphasise the quality of its creations.
For example, the T Timeless series is characterised by the T symbol, an iconic detail that has become an instantly recognisable identifier of Tod’s. It makes its presence felt on a slew of bags, shoes and accessories, both as a mark of the brand as well as a reiteration of the item’s timeless appeal.
The series consists of true Tod’s staples. The ever iconic Gommino loafers—the pebbled sole footwear that made the brand a household name—is branded with the T Timeless hardware that sits seamlessly on the shoe’s bridge. Then, there’s the T Timeless crossbody bag (seen here on global brand ambassador Xiao Zhan) is affixed with the symbol as a sleek buckle that adds a refined character to the clean lines of the bag.
Tod’s skilful way of designing and crafting timeless pieces is exemplified in its latest T Vintage shoes. As the name suggests, the new sneaker references the sporty styles of the ’80s and ’90s, with topstitched detailing to highlight its more casual aesthetic. The wedge sole is designed to provide exceptional comfort and support, lined with the signature Gommino pebble rubber sole for that grip and durability. The T Vintage is available in a number of colourways true to its sporty inspiration, but a duo of sleek, all-leather variations are understated elegance at its best.
Our possessions do get beat up pretty easily especially if they’re continuously used. But the thing with Tod’s is you can rest easy knowing that for the entire lifespan of your item, the design will stand the test of time. T for Tod’s; T for timeless.
When Bvlgari sought to create its snake-like Serpenti design, it turned to the Tubogas technique. The origins of the Tubogas is humble—inspired by gas pipes used to transport pressurised gas in the 1920s, which were corrugated as a result of metal wrapping around them for added protection. In jewellery, the technique was practised in the late 19th century, but it wasn’t until Bvlgari that the Tubogas became popular.
The time-consuming technique involves wrapping gold strips around a core structure in order to create flexible bands without the need of soldering. There is a characteristic bounce to the Tubogas, which also gives a rather comfortable fit around the wrist, as exemplified by Bvlgari’s first Serpenti watch introduced in 1948. The house’s artisans then continued to dedicate time in perfecting the technique by exploring other materials and incorporating elements as a way of experimenting with the unique intricacies.
Since then, countless other Bvlgari creations—from jewellery to timepieces—have incorporated the Tubogas technique. But it has always been just that: a technique synonymous with Bvlgari and an example of the kind of ingenuity the house is known for. That has changed with the Bvlgari Tubogas.
For the first time in more than 70 years, the technique has now been given its own collection, showcasing the distinctive striped look and its versatility across different expressions. The Bvlgari Tubogas collection takes reference from the first aforementioned creation by the house, with an almost exclusively yellow gold foundation that is added with extra flourishes. The collection’s four bracelets, for example, range from pure yellow gold at its simplest to a duo of variations decorated tastefully with diamonds—either studded or concentrated at the two ends of a cuff-styled bracelet. A tri-gold variation follows the simplicity of the all-gold but imbued with a more contemporary flair.
The necklaces are where Bvlgari takes it up a couple of notches. A majority of the designs are choker styles with the Tubogas used to create a sort of rigid flexibility. The shape of the necklaces stays fixed and contour the neck seamlessly without feeling... well, choked.
Just like the bracelets, they range from clean yellow gold to variations with diamond pavés. Three expressions up the ante by combining the Tubogas with another of Bvlgari icons, the Parentesi. Defined by the geometric motifs inspired by Roman pavements, they are set with a central precious stone—rubellite, tanzanite or green tourmaline—and surrounded by a pavé of diamonds as well as hard stone inserts. The Tubogas itself is reworked into a triangular shape that’s not only more complex to craft but visually adds volume and sophistication to the pieces.
Familiar Serpenti styles are revisited for Bvlgari Tubogas in the form of necklaces as well as a ring and bracelet. Each feature a more classic serpent head with diamond pavés echoing the coiling of the Tubogas in a sort of sinewy dance that is rather mesmerising to look at.
The final piece in the collection is a Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas timepiece. It combines the best of the house in a 21mm-gold case (there could very be a much larger, male-appropriate size in the future, who knows) fixed to a completely tubular rendition of the Tubogas—a nod to its humble beginnings.
Given the 16 different designs within the Bvlgari Tubogas collection, Bvlgari isn’t playing around with this new debut. The Tubogas technique is one of the markers of the house and to finally give it the spotlight that it rightly deserves has been a long time coming.
The Bvlgari Tubogas jewellery collection is now available in boutiques and online.
No, there isn’t a new artistic director at Berluti. In fact, there hasn’t been one since Kris Van Assche left the Maison in 2021. There is, however, a new CEO in the form of Jean-Marc Mansvelt.
Mansvelt has been in the LVMH Group of brands for decades. He had spent about 10 years in Louis Vuitton before moving to become jewellery house Chaumet’s CEO in 2015, focusing on storytelling to revive what was often referred to as the “sleeping beauty” of the jewellery world. And while high jewellery is far from the world of luxury fashion, Mansvelt is likely to enact a somewhat similar approach to Berluti as its CEO.
The Maison’s latest campaign is the first of what is certain to be many new directional changes for Berluti. Lensed by Bastian Archard, whose works often capture objects and people in a quiet and intimate manner, the 17-image campaign zeroes in on the Maison’s emblematic pieces. They’re treated like objets d’art—shoes and bags positioned on pedestals, while ready-to-wear pieces envelope and take on the personalities of the models they’re put on.
There’s no distinguishing the timeless Berluti classics from pieces picked out from the latest collections. It’s a strategic and artful approach to signal this new chapter of Berluti where seasonality is seemingly obsolete. Instead, the focus is on the craft honed by its artisans. A number of the images from the campaign highlight the design intricacies and details that are easily recognisable for those already familiar with Berluti, while serving as a reminder of the hands and artistry that go behind each piece. The tone-on-tone hand-stitching of the Andy loafers, and the sliver of the contemporary on the sporty-soled Fast Track leather sneakers showcase time-honoured expertise, and are essentially a snapshot of the artisans themselves. The scuffed up and worn out soles of a pair of Alessandro lace-ups demonstrate that Berluti’s pieces are meant to be lived in and remain dependable for years to come.
Perhaps, the most drastic change is the return of the classic Berluti logo. The serif typography has been revived, given due prominence with each and every campaign image bearing the mark—even alongside the Van Assche-initiated trademark onto the sole of a pair of boots. And like the creations it’s featured against, the emblem radiates character and renewed energy, a signifier of the history and upcoming stories yet to be told with the brand.
All that is to say: Berluti is home.
Scrunchies belong on hair but for Y/PROJECT, they are bringing that concept to the feet. Renowned for challenging traditional norms, Y/PROJECT imbues its signature scrunching to the Salomon Speedcross 3. While both brands are French, they each bring distinctly different qualities to the collaboration, tying in Y/PROJECT's extravagance with Salomon's functionality. Thus, the Speedcross 3 Y/PROJECT.
So, yeah. The scrunching, what's that about? These Speedcross 3 models now feature scrunched fabric textures that are crafted with innovative drawstring details that hold the drapes in place, and beneath, reveal Salomon's acclaimed Sensifit™ tech. This is the sort of feature that'll have fashion geeks stopping in their tracks.
Beyond the aesthetics, the shoe boasts Salomon's Speedcross lug pattern—engineered for unparalleled traction on a variety of surfaces. If you're concerned that the drapes add weight, they don't. The protective lightweight band around the base not only shields the foot from the outdoors but also maintains the shoe's lightweight feel.
Available in black with vibrant accents and a classic, yet refined grey colourway, this one-of-a-kind collaboration marks one of Glenn Martens' final projects as Y/PROJECT's creative director before he embarks on other ventures.
The Salomon Speedcross 3 Y/PROJECT is now exclusively available at the Salomon Orchard Central store and online.
We reckon Barry Keoghan knows a thing or two about "Burberry weather". The Saltburn actor grew up in Dublin after all, where temperatures rarely go beyond 20 degrees Celcius—perfect weather to be layering over just about any kind of outerwear all year round.
The Burberry global ambassador is one of seven personalities chosen to be part of Burberry's latest outerwear-centric campaign, "It's Always Burberry Weather". Shot across London and the British countryside, the campaign is a series of cinematic vignettes—each individually fronted by Keoghan, actor Zhang Jingyi, Cara Delevingne, England footballers Cole Palmer and Eberechi Eze, musician Simz, and Academy Award-winning actress Olivia Colman—with each highlighting a particular outerwear style reimagined by Burberry. Colman, for example, wears a cosy quilted outerwear while on a drive in the countryside and recounting her sleep trouble woes to a friend over the phone before humorously stumbling upon a flock of sheep. And in the campaign's longest short film (a runtime past the nine-minute mark), Palmer lounges on a deckchair in a duffel coat by a lake, waiting for a fish to bite.
In true thespian fashion, Keoghan's short film sees him running lines with a server at a streetside cafe. He's dressed in a Burberry Check puffer jacket that's very much in line with his own personal aesthetic. It's also reversible—Keoghan wears it with the plain-side out in the short film but is photographed by Alasdair McLellan with the Burberry Check in full display for the campaign's stills. We can't help but draw the parallels between the reversibility of the puffer jacket with Keoghan's own artistry and penchant for taking on characters that aren't exactly what they seem like on the surface—a journey that he tells us, is something that he enjoys discovering while on set and in the moment.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: What’s your earliest memory of Burberry?
BARRY KEOGHAN: The first Burberry piece I owned was a Burberry scarf. I remember I used to wear it with anything and everything and it had the traditional pattern on it as well.
ESQ: Being a global ambassador of Burberry now for over six months, you’ve been dressed by the brand a few times, even before the announcement. Is there one significant highlight or moment with Burberry that still sticks out for you?
BK: My favourite Burberry piece I own is the white puffer jacket I wore to the Burberry Summer 2025 fashion show.
ESQ: How did you approach shooting the Burberry Outerwear campaign?
BK: Some of the moments that I remember from the Burberry shoot, was just how fun it was and how easy it was to shoot on film, and how good it was to work with the directors and creative team to bring some humour to the shoot.
ESQ: You do have a penchant for streetwear pieces. How does Burberry Outerwear fit in with your own personal style?
BK: My personal style is sort of like trackies and cropped jackets. I love a good jumper and high neck shirts, and basically a cropped jacket/cropped jumper—I love.
ESQ: Who are some of your biggest acting heroes and non-acting heroes?
BK: Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, and to be honest, animals—I’ve always talked about how I’ve watched and observed animals, and also body language and posture, and documentaries. I gather and observe that. And I also just observe life. I never want to see anyone acting and I’m always looking for what looks true and real and I always find that in documentaries.
ESQ: What has been the most challenging role you’ve taken on so far, and how did you overcome it?
BK: The most challenging would be my Saltburn character. It wasn’t that it was hard or difficult but with the word being "challenging", it's the sort of the thing that I’m drawn to. I like to play characters that aren’t necessarily easy and that I can easily slip in to. I want to always have a challenge and physicality and a skill set I can learn.
ESQ: You’re about to officially take on a role, The Joker, that’s been played by a great number of actors. What’s the thought process like of accepting and then formulating a game plan for a role like that?
BK: Getting into character I have notebooks that I write things down in. I dress like the character, I stay in acting to familiarise with the period, and I do a hobby that the character does. Then I go away for two weeks to get into character and get into the character with no distractions—to live and breathe the character. Then I go to set and be open to collaboration and discovery with the director and team because again, I love to find the character as I go along in the journey and not have everything figured out—just like life.
ESQ: How are you hoping to end the year?
BK: I’m hoping to end the year with some growth and progression in my arts. I hope to be able to look back at it and look at how much I’ve grown and look to set new goals and challenge myself for next year.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
You may be familiar with Loro Piana’s CashDenim series. While CashDenim pieces look exactly like traditional denim, the brand has transformed the hand feel of the hardy material by infusing precious cashmere. This not only gives the resulting fabric a luxuriously soft touch, it also enhances the durability of denim with the added boon of heat-retaining properties without making the wearer feel the heat. Basically, CashDenim is denim made better.
Denim has been around for centuries and the advancement of fabric technologies has allowed it to take on forms that previously would have been unthinkable. CashDenim is relatively new, having been launched in 2022, and is a fine example of brands experimenting with denim in new ways.
This season, Berluti introduces a speckled Canadian tuxedo crafted with cotton-silk-infused denim for a deceptively hefty piece—you wouldn’t necessarily be able to feel the silk by touch but there’s a marked difference in weight. Prada’s all-denim looks for Autumn/Winter 2024 are some of the thinnest manipulations of the fabric we’ve ever experienced that they almost seem un-denim-like.
While it’s not exactly tweaking the composition or make of denim like the others are doing, Kenzo deserves special mention for creating denim that appears almost like jacquard. Cleverly making use of contrast topstitching, a full denim look is decorated with a “Kenzo Star Tiger” motif that looks incredibly elaborate.
If it isn’t already apparent, luxury is more than that visual appeal at the very first glance. While bold, striking colours and designs are undoubtedly special, the feel of a piece of ready-to-wear evokes that same kind of experience that luxury fashion should provide. If you’re shelling out upwards of four figures for an outerwear, it better feel every bit as special as it’s made out to be.
Textural pieces are emphasised this season through technical explorations of craft as well as materiality. Fendi’s slew of outerwear ranging from zip-up jackets to knee-length coats have an almost homespun slant with textures that look and feel plush. A plaid coat amps up the tactile experience with raglan sleeves of a contrasting texture from its bodice. Chunky cable knits by Tod’s employ the use of different colours as an example of elevated knitting techniques—they’re also trimmed with contrasting ribbing for added tactility.
What appeared like pony hair on the Hermès runway turns out to be calfskin upon closer inspection. The calfskins used are heavily polished to effect a beautiful pony hair-like sheen that catches light with every movement. And of course, they feel as decadent as they look—all for the wearer to experience and appreciate fashion on a more sensory level.
It was earlier this year on award show red carpets that lapel pins and brooches suddenly became a trend among Hollywood celebrity stylists. Almost every single male celebrity sported a version of one, pairing it with all manner of tailoring.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections are rife with brooches and they’re mostly grandmother-like in nature. You know what we’re talking about—those impossibly bold ’90s designs in shades of gold that our grandmothers used to hold two ends of a scarf together or simply as a piece of statement jewellery to complete an evening jacket. Hey, who said anything about brooches and pins being for a specific gender anyway?
Dolce&Gabbana had a multitude of variations attached to almost every look in its monochromatic collection, while Emporio Armani’s more subdued versions are used to finish relaxed tailoring. In true grandmother fashion, Fendi replaced button fastenings with bejewelled FF brooches as a way of securing coats and cardigans.
Jewellery in menswear has become more prevalent. It’s not unusual to finish an outfit with rings or earrings or even necklaces. The addition of a brooch is a long time coming, and who doesn’t love more options to play around with?
Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere is a marvel in that not only is the brand committed to keeping it fully traceable, the fabrics resulting from it are testament to Zegna’s mastery in innovation. The Autumn/ Winter 2024 collection employs the use of Oasi Cashmere in myriad ways, pushing the limits of cashmere’s use beyond the traditional.
Cashmere over cashmere over cashmere are layered to create monochromatic looks that protect, while reinforcing the idea of luxurious preciousness. They’re shaped into multi-melange cashmere tops and sweaters, cashmere suiting as well as cashmere-backed plongé leather. The latter may seem visually hefty, but are mind-blowingly lightweight in feel. It helps too that Oasi Cashmere benefits from artistic director Alessandro Sartori’s billowy and oversized silhouettes that serve to showcase the material in the best ways possible.
What’s especially evident—and has since become a running theme at Zegna—is that the pieces are timeless in nature. The heavily layered looks are easily broken down to individual pieces that can then be paired with garments from previous as well as upcoming collections. Investments are only as good as their returns and you’d be rest assured that these are definitely every bit bang for your buck.
One would think that with increased digitalisation, the need for bags would become obsolete. But instead, they’re getting bigger than ever. We’ve reached the other end of the spectrum when it comes to bags—it was only a few years ago when bags that could hardly fit a pair of AirPods were a thing.
Thankfully, capacious bags are more functional. If you think about it, they actually make sense for the multifaceted lifestyles that we lead. Whether we’re working from just about anywhere aside from the office, or cram our after-office hours with fitness classes (and more work), a bag that fits in all that’s needed makes a worthy investment.
Balenciaga’s nifty offering is the Bel Air XL Carry All bag that’s designed with a wide front pocket and an incredibly roomy main compartment with two zipped pockets and two flat pockets on the inside. The generous handle drop is non-adjustable but it allows for shoulder as well as hand carry. Gucci’s more traditional shape—you could easily bring this to the office—comes with an extra adjustable shoulder strap. The tote bag in question is crafted in leather that gives its structured shape but is as soft as it is sturdy (as evident from the how the models carried them on the runway).
For part one of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear trends.
A new fashion season often welcomes the introduction of new ideas and fresh perspectives on dressing, even in the simplest details. The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections aren’t any different especially as the industry at large is currently experiencing a slowdown.
There’s a constant conundrum in fashion season after season. As much as brands continuously take creative licenses in seasonal collections—collaborating with a slew of artists, materialising new silhouettes, and crafting interesting narratives—familiarity and wearability are most often paramount to the general consumer. It’s apparent that since the resurgence of minimalism (guised as “quiet luxury”) there’s a growing mindful approach to fashion where appeal goes deeper than first-glance statements.
The slew of menswear collections for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season reflect a more concerted effort at balancing creativity with tried-and-tested staples. However, the offerings aren’t as pared back as Autumn/Winter 2023 when “quiet luxury” was at its peak. There are considered inflexions of more showy displays of techniques and craftsmanship, especially by luxury fashion brands. And even the simpler forms aren’t exactly what they seem.
Love it or hate it, streetwear’s reign within the luxury fashion context has most definitely come to its inevitable end. Streetwear-centric garments, however, have grown to be such quintessential elements of menswear that you’d find them in a variety of iterations across all levels of fashion retail hierarchy.
The pullover hoodie is given due focus this season. No, this isn’t your average go-to that’s become part of your airport fit or the one you’d grab for date nights at the movie theatre. The Autumn/Winter 2024 versions are generally devoid of any graphics or embellishments yet make for strong statements just based on materiality alone. Take for example Burberry’s offerings in super supple leather that even the keenest of eyes could easily mistake for nylon hoodies. Loewe takes it up a notch with leather iterations that reach all the way to the thighs, complete with ribbed trims. Pushing the envelope further, McQueen serves up hoodies that are almost far removed from what you’d expect of a hoodie while still remaining wearable.
For the more pragmatic, Coach’s cotton versions are cut long with a raw edge—and finished with tasteful distressing around the hood—perfect for layering. Or opt for Wooyoungmi’s self-tie hoodie for a piece marked by a style detail that’s effortless and chic.
At Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson’s continued exploration of the parallels between art and fashion has led to a collaboration with American artist Richard Hawkins. Known for his collages that focus on the male body and its portrayals across many different types of media—including fantasised celebrity porn–Hawkins was given carte blanche to create original artworks for the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection.
Hawkins employed the use of an AI script to assist in generating the collages before turning them into paintings. The painted collages are then further broken down and are effectively snippets as they’re translated onto pieces in the collection in true Loewe form. The works are crafted as jacquards and prints on knitwear, while they’re recreated as stunning beaded embellishments on supersized Squeeze bags for men. In certain pieces, different permutations of embroidery, leather marquetry, glass studs, and fringes are paired together to further emphasise the collage nature of Hawkins’ work.
One may be immediately drawn by the male bodies in the artworks, but on closer inspection, the different layers within each collage become more apparent. The disparate elements—messages and graphics—echo the combination of visuals that we’re inundated with on a daily basis and how that informs our reality in some shape or form.
Work-from-home arrangements and the loosening of office dress codes for a majority of industries may be the norm now, but fashion refuses to let ties die. And let’s face it, ties will never really go out of style.
As though in defiance of societal norms (how very fashion), corporate dressing is increasingly gaining traction. It’s almost human nature that we often tend to eagerly act in reverse to convention; we don’t want to abide by strict dress codes but rather have the freedom to do so whenever we feel like it. Ties take centre stage in this wrestle for control as corporate-esque outfits are built around the once-powerful accessory.
Prada’s entire Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection revolves around the idea of corporatewear, splicing them with the desire to escape the confines of the office. Silk ties are the connecting thread that, well, ties the entire collection together as they’re paired with trompe l’œil shirting (some are actually made of Re-Nylon) and trousers attached with leather belts.
Saint Laurent and Sean Suen both reference the past with silhouettes that nod to when ties were a hallmark of traditional menswear. The former has brought back wide ties to match the equally wide lapels of its blazers, while Sean Suen’s printed versions stand out against reimagined classics.
As corporate dress makes a menswear comeback (or “corpcore” as the kids call it these days), you’d be able to find pinstripes in just about every single Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. At its most classic, like at Brunello Cucinelli, the pattern is used as a way of lengthening the overall look of the brand’s double-breasted offerings, while CELINE’s three-piece pinstripe suit gives off the vibe of a menacing mob boss.
Yet, where pinstripes truly make a renewed difference are on atypical pieces far removed from its tailored heritage. Dior Men takes the lead in this approach. The House’s pinstripe creations take on forms that resemble more workwear-inspired pieces. There are pinstripe suiting and coats, but there are also overalls and rompers completely dressed in pinstripes. The pattern immediately imbues these pieces with a sense of sartorial formality that elevates the entire look, especially when worn with more louche pairings within the collection.
There’s also an attempt at making pinstripes somewhat sexy. Burberry’s roomy cut suiting are irreverently worn sans an inner layer or with a deep V-neck sweater, while Onitsuka Tiger opts for a deconstructed knit collar with its modern interpretation of a pinstripe suit.
For part two of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear trends.
When the invite to the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show stated that it was to be held at Paris’ Jardin d’Acclimatation, a recreation of a Western film set was not something anyone could’ve imagined. Yet, there we were, standing next to a shiny, red food truck with an equally red sign (the kind that welcomes you upon crossing state lines in the United States) emblazoned with “Paris LVirginia”.
It was only men’s creative director Pharrell Williams’ third runway show for the Maison but there’s already a sense that the menswear shows are slated to be multi-sensorial experiences. If Williams’ debut on Paris’ Pont Neuf—in view of LVMH-owned Cheval Blanc and La Samaritaine as well as the Louis Vuitton headquarters—included a live band and choir, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show took things a step further.
Past the red sign, the show space brought the American West to Paris. Massive screens spanned the entire indoor circumference, depicting a desert landscape that gradually changed as the full line-up of the collection made its way down a rust-coloured Damier runway. Snow eventually covered the rocky formations and sparse vegetation, culminating in a finale that saw faux snow raining down the show space as powwow group Native Voices of Resistance—comprising singers from Native American nations across North America—captivated with a stirring performance. The show’s soundtrack too featured three more original songs all composed by Williams himself.
In some ways, Williams is continuing the trajectory that his predecessor, the late Virgil Abloh, set Louis Vuitton on—a maison that’s beyond the old-fashioned notions of what a luxury fashion house is. The Louis Vuitton menswear universe especially, is a cultural brand that’s ever-growing and expanding; it’s quintessentially Parisian in essence but draws influences from its global community. It echoes the core of Williams’ LVERS vision where the Maison’s core values of discernment, savoir-faire and travel are seen as a collective eternal source of vitality.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection is a more tightly edited interpretation of the LVERS vision yet. The design aesthetic is clear. Drawing from a foundation of American Western workwear classics with heavy doses of denim, embroidered cowboy shirts, fringed leather jackets and more, the ready-to-wear pieces are reimagined with Louis Vuitton motifs and craftsmanship. Yes, there’s a string of looks drenched in the Maison’s Damier or LV Monogram motifs, but all artistically and creatively tweaked to reflect the collection’s theme. The closing look made sure to get the point across with a suit crafted from leather that was then painstakingly studded to decorate the entirety of the two-piece in the Damier motif.
The details put into each look further elevate the collection from straying into costume territory. Embroidery is a consistent application throughout on denim jackets, Western-style shirting as well as tailoring, while turquoise beading and embellishments are clever extensions of Williams’ penchant for pearls. Leather belts and cowboy hats are trimmed with metal buckles featuring kitschy versions of Louis Vuitton signifiers but grounded with a timeless visual approach to them.
What needs to be appreciated up close are the collection’s bags. While they are dressed in the Maison’s classic fabrications, the Autumn/Winter 2024 iterations are purposely treated to appear sun-eroded and worn out as though they’ve been through several desert heatwaves and sandstorms. They are still as recognisable as any other Louis Vuitton creation, save for the fact that they have much more character to them yet still leaving room for further actual wear and tear.
Williams covered all bases in ensuring that the workwear aspect of the collection is taken seriously. A collaboration with Timberland seems almost unavoidable. The footwear of the collection already took notes from work boots of the American West but the collaboration doubles down on the authenticity through the trusted know-how of the American brand. They’re peppered with Louis Vuitton details on leather accents as well as on the back of each tongue. But as with all things luxury go, especially in the cleverly marketed realm of Louis Vuitton, a number of special editions made their appearance on the runway encased in plexiglass shoe trunks.
The more important collaborations however, are the creative exchanges with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations. Led by creative director Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, the Dakota Flower motif appears on a number of bags and accessories, parfleche-inspired graphics are hand-painted on Keepalls, and charms are plumed with horse hair. Not only do these collaborations echo Williams’ LVERS vision, they also pay due reverence and respect to the cultural nuances of the American West that are often left out of whitewashed conversations and depictions.
The pomp and circumstance of the show are what you’d expect from Louis Vuitton. But look beyond all that and you’d discover a collection that truly celebrates and showcases what its design ethos is all about: highlighting a global community.
