It was very fair to assume that Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello would thread along the lines of the aesthetic that he's refined for the House for a couple of years now. Sleek, almost '80s-inspired classic elegance has permeated the collections of late—a more confident and singular take of Saint Laurent's heritage than when he first took over as creative director. And it did seem as though Vaccarello was about to present a Winter 2025 menswear collection that was just that; the dramatic, couture-like staging of the Bourse de Commerce certainly alluded to it.
But it was clear from the very first look that Vaccarello had no intention of being predictable, and dare we say, bland.
The fit: Aside from the impeccable tailoring that Yves Saint Laurent is known for, the late founder is had a habit of creating a sort of tension in his creations. There was always a twist to the mundane that was either felt or seen. It's this juxtaposition that became Vaccarello's starting point for the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection.
The now-signature Saint Laurent tailoring—strong shoulders, roomy and languid—was paired with knee-high leather boots that sat somewhere between horse-riding boots and leather-kink. From where I was seated, the boots were kept rather minimal, with simple construction lines creating a promising roomy (and comfortable) fit and a buckle to keep things secure right at the top.
There's no question that it's a jarring proposal, but that's the point. In the collection's more British-leaning looks with Prince of Wales checks, however, they're less peculiar—take it as a gentleman who rides a horse to the office or just someone who'd rather not get his trousers muddied and wet. And when the boots were worn over leather trousers in some looks, there's a seamlessness that's quite beautiful to look at.
The details: Vaccarello is a master at creating contrasts with the slightest tweak. For this collection, it was the upturned cuffs that became a styling leitmotif throughout almost every look. It's typically a style that I'm not exactly fond of, but in this instance, it worked to balance out the juxtaposition with the boots and gave the tailoring a tad bit of a rakish, casual air.
Three exceptional looks: The black double-breasted suiting in look 3 paired with the collection's knee-high boots that further emphasises on the strong shoulders; look 17's poppy combination that's just effortlessly cool; and the aristocratic flair of the closing look perfect for a winning red carpet fit.
The takeaway: When it comes to style, keeping everyone on their toes to expect the unexpected does it sometimes; a little bit of juxtaposition always keeps things interesting.
View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Hermès is always being talked about, especially of late. That's not a bad thing of course; as they say, any publicity is good publicity. Perhaps, that's why the Maison saw the need to increase the capacity of its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show at 9 Place d'Iena. A PR rep told me that the seating configuration was different this time around so that they could accommodate more people—a good sign that there's increasing interest in Hermès.
It did seem as though artistic director Véronique Nichanian felt the need to widen the appeal of her menswear creations for the Maison. The Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was perhaps one of the safest collections by Nichanian in the last few years. But don't get me wrong, it's not bad. It's just that we're used to seeing Nichanian be more experimental with her menswear vision that a pared back, almost classic collection was a stark contrast to her previous work.
Having said that, there was still plenty to discover. It's not a collection that one would immediately strike as distinct or in industry speak, "editorial". No; this was a collection you'd have to touch, feel and understand a bit more intimately in order to appreciate the craft and thought behind it.
The fit: Sticking to her penchant for oversized outerwear and tops, Nichanian slightly extended the lengths of jackets, rebelling from the current fervour for cropped everything. More traditional tailoring was also brought back, cut slim and worn with equally slim ties, while an array of outerwear took on familiar forms but rendered in leather and technical fabrications. A particular treatment employed on a number of coats and jackets appeared like textured patent leather on the runway, but was actually coated fabric.
The colour palette was classic Hermès with a heavy usage of earth tones for the season. The more colourful pieces in the collection were knitwear with motifs inspired by the uniforms of jockeys. But at the same time, the colours used were complementary and served to break away from the monotony.
The details: Instantly, my eyes were drawn to the clever styling of a scarf turned into a double-tour necklace. This was done quite simply by sliding the scarf into a number of Hermès rings (you could pretty much do this on your own with any just about any ring) and then securing it with a knot. Quite a neat style hack, in my opinion.
As an example of the Maison's savoir-faire beyond fashion, a number of outerwear incorporated blankets as part of their design. These blanket liners could be removed when needed but attaching them functioned to add much needed warmth. They're also finished with blanket stitching for a beautiful contrast.
On the bags front, the Haut à courroies got an update with a detachable addition that slides onto the bag's front hardware for added external pockets. And aligning with the Hermès theme of the year—Drawn to craft—a number of iterations featured a completely hardware-free version replaced with a clever connect-the-dots motif.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3 that'll be the perfect outfit for next winter; the blanket-stitching savoir-faire in look 17; and the cool elegance and simplicity of look 44.
The takeaway: While social media debates over the Birkin versus the Wirkin, Hermès proves that its signature style and elegance can't be replicated for cheap.
View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
After the Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show, artistic director Kim Jones received the Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur—France's highest civilian honour. It's a rarity for someone outside of France to receive the honour, but given Jones' six-year tenure modernising and recontextualising house codes and archives, it does seem fitting. Anna Wintour presented the award to Jones, while wearing a piece from the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection.
Wintour was also present front row at the show. I was seated at the other side of the sprawling runway show space, across from her. There was nothing particularly special about her presence at the show; Wintour isn't a stranger to the Dior Men runway shows. But with the persistent rumours of creative directorship changes, one does wonder if it all points to some sliver of truth to them.
It didn't help to that there was a sort of sombre element to the show's musical choice. "Time Lapse" by Michael Nyman provided some energy to the elegance of the collection but also underscored a sense of melancholy.
But all that to say, the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection was easily one of Jones' best, especially in the past couple of years. Jones took it back to Monsieur Dior after seasons of referencing the works of past Dior creative directors, drawing focus on the graphic and angular Ligne H collection.
The fit: While the collection referenced Monsieur Dior's Ligne H collection, Jones took the opportunity to expand the idea to include other signatures by Monsieur Dior. The opera coat from the Pondichéry collection of 1948, for example, was reimagined in two different versions—one in pure black, and another embellished pink iteration that closed the show. Jones slipped through time periods recontextualising and merging them with more modern silhouettes, all while envisioning a gender-fluid casanova—taking the idea of a "ladies' man" quite literally.
Right from the first look, a play of volumes was apparent. From cinched waists of a number of the opera coats to more voluminous structured creations that were left as is, there was a brilliant display of fabric manipulation and couture-level constructions.
Save for the couture embroidery techniques employed, there was hardly any other Dior motif present. There was no Oblique, no Cannage or anything that resembled any form of signature or branding. The only such element was a Christian Dior Paris label that were placed front and centre on a number of pieces. This collection was all about the cut, silhouette and make of each piece. Sublime.
The details: One of the standout design details was the folded, draped collars that were seen on both precious fabrics as well as leather. Without constructing a "proper" collar or lapel, collars were formed just from manipulating the material and skilfully draping it to create a seamless appearance of a collar. It was incredibly breathtaking to witness up close at the re-see the next day.
The couture bow was used as a clever leitmotif throughout the collection. On some ready-to-wear pieces, they were removable accents on the back of blazers as well as sleeve covers on jackets. There were, of course, the Dior-branded bows that were worn as masks. The bows were also translated as satin bow caps on the collection's footwear, and will sure to be the most sought-after piece in the entire collection.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9's pink bow-sleeved jacket that I'm calling "couture coquette"; the delicious and supple leather top in look 20; and the drama of the skirt-trouser combo with the offbeat pairing of an embroidered striped shirt in look 46.
The takeaway: Jones's appointment to Dior Men may have been partly due to his affinity for and ability to interweave streetwear into luxury fashion, but the truth it, he's a fashion engineer capable to making a brand relevant.
View the full Dior Men Winter 2025 collection in the gallery below.
In a way, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway show was somewhat of a déjà vu. Nigo—founder of A Bathing Ape, and artistic director of Kenzo—has collaborated with Louis Vuitton before during the late Virgil Abloh's time with the Maison in 2020. It was so successful that it spawned another drop the year after.
This new iteration of a Nigo collaboration with Louis Vuitton felt a bit different.
As a whole, it was more of a dialogue between two friends and creatives. While Nigo's first collaboration with Louis Vuitton felt like he was given free rein to do whatever that he wanted, the Autumn/Winter 2025 version saw a more deliberate approach for a creative volley. There's a distinct Pharrell Williams-look to the entire collection—marked by relaxed suiting, workwear-tailoring pairings, and embellishments—that were then peppered with Nigo-isms the likes of Japanese-inspired treatments and fabrications with a whole load of denim.
What's interesting to note was the more restraint use of loud logos. Sure, there were still plenty of Damier motifs going around in a number of permutations—Williams is big on making the Damier his era-defining signature—everything else was kept more pared back; the collection is easily Williams' most wearable one yet.
Another Williams trope is the show's soundtrack that he produces each time (how does he find the time to do all that, I want to know). This time around, a couple of K-pop's finest each had a hand in hyping up the atmosphere of the runway show. BTS' j-hope—who was, expectedly, mobbed by just about every editor in attendance—contributed to "LV Bag" together with Don Toliver, while SEVENTEEN's "Bad Influence" seemed to be a crowd favourite.
The show ended with Williams and Nigo making their way around the circular show space. And as they passed grey lightboxes (there were a total of 24 of them) positioned at intervals on the runway, each lit up to reveal its contents. The lightboxes contained archive collections belonging to the Maison, personal collections of Nigo and Williams, as well as those by personal collectors. The pieces are now open for bidding on Williams' digital-only auction platform Joopiter.
The fit: Unlike previous collections by Williams, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was conceptualised around more familiar menswear staples. There was little deviation from the tried-and-tested, with less gimmicks and a more concerted effort to focus on craft and tailoring. This in turn provided the perfect canvas for the Japanese craft techniques and motifs employed to shine through even more. Shippo-weaving was incorporated into the Maison's flower emblem to create a encircled diamond stitched pattern, while kasuri-weaving was used in tailoring jacquard and silk-wool outerwear.
There's a stylistic flair in the way that tailored pieces are paired with workwear-inspired separates. Old-school dandy codes are mixed in with a sense of functionality that's not only pleasing to the eye, but also sensible in today's context.
The details: I did say that the collection is a bit more pared back in terms of logos, but that doesn't mean that both Nigo and Williams skimped on the details. For one, the embellished denim in look 38 was beautifully executed as an interpretation of the Maison's flower emblem. There was also a nod to the iconic 2021 collaboration with Stephen Sprouse but instead of the just splashing "Louis Vuitton" in highlighter hues, this new interpretation was done in black and white and incorporated words such as "LVERS", "TOKYO" and more in both French and Japanese.
The wave-like effect that Nigo first conceptualised for the 2020 collaboration with Louis Vuitton made a return, but this time, skewed vertically and consisting of a patchwork of the Maison's motifs. And for those crazed over the bag charm trend, there plenty on the runway, including a leather charm shaped like a lobster claw.
To commemorate the collection's collaborative nature, a number of pieces across ready-to-wear and accessories feature the graphic renderings of both Nigo's and William's heads—perfect for anyone who's a stalwart fan of both figures.
Three exceptional looks: Look 18's mishmash of Louis Vuitton motifs that somehow looked very well put together; the aforementioned look 38; and look 66's broken embroidery look that's stunning upclose.
The takeaway: A collaboration is only as good as the dialogue that went into it; this was good.
View the full Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Chinese New Year is right around the corner, and it often presents two dilemmas: escaping the annual interrogation from the aunties or ponder the age-old conundrum of what to wear. While we can't help with the former, we definitely got you covered for the latter. This guide is your go-to for stepping into the Lunar New Year with style.
If a sleek, refined look is on your agenda this year—you're on the right page. TOM FORD's ivory cashmere and silk polo shirt is a staple piece, accentuated with mother-of-pearl buttons for that subtle sheen. Finished with their signature gold TOM FORD embroidered label, it's the epitome of understated sophistication for this Chinese New Year.
The collection is available in stores.
Loro Piana reimagines its iconic Bomber jacket to celebrate the Year of the Snake. Originally designed in 2003, the Bomber combines the Maison’s signature craftsmanship with refined practicality, perfect for a polished look on a chilly day.
The collection is available in stores and online.
Golden Goose's global brand ambassador Jackson Yee struts the genderless round-neck sweatshirt adorned with hand-embroidered red floral motifs, paired effortlessly with medium-wash denim. The jeans feature intricate snake embroidery on the back pockets—a subtle yet festive nod to the occasion.
When it comes to Golden Goose, its iconic Ball Star trainers take centrestage, reimagined in crisp white leather with snake-print details, bold red stitching, and matching lace for a fresh, festive twist.
The Golden Goose collection is available in stores and online.
Fendi ushers in the season with a bold collection—key pieces include the Peekaboo ISeeU Small and Baguette Soft Trunk bags, crafted from black Cuoio Romano leather. Adding to the allure, the Fendi Eyes motif receives a sophisticated makeover, adorning ready-to-wear pieces and the Fendi Flow sneakers.
The Fendi Lunar New Year collection is available in stores and online.
Kenzo's artistic director Nigo reimagines the House's signature collection with contemporary flair. The iconic Boke Flower has been reintepretated as a golden snake graphic, symbolising prosperity and abundance. The gold and red tones dominate for a vibrant yet sophisticated palette.
The Kenzo Lunar New Year collection is available in stores and online.
This collection proves that Giorgio Armani owns the sophisticated look with its delicate yet intricate snake embroideries on their timeless pieces as seen on Chinese celebrity Hu Ge. The ready-to-wear pieces are perfect for both special occasion and everyday wear.
The collection is available in stores.
Global ambassador Xiao Zhan models the captivating selection of ready-to-wear pieces featuring the snake motif woven seamlessly into each design. The collection exudes effortless style, brought to life with exquisite attention to detail.
Meanwhile, the iconic Gucci Re-Webb sneakers are crafted from beige and ebony Original GG canvas, and adorned with intricate snake details around the silhouette.
The collection is available in stores and online.
Let's not forget about travel and lifestyle accessories that are both practical and stylish. TUMI delivers a limited-edition capsule featuring a glided snake graphic inspired by calligraphy brushstrokes. Each piece is covered in gold detailing, symbolising good fortune and abundance for the year ahead.
And to spice things up, receive a limited-edition luggage tag available only with purchases, while stocks last.
The collection is available in stores and online.
When seeking chic, timeless essentials, the Lunar New Year Capsule from Ralph Lauren is the collection you can trust. This year's offering features the Polo Ralph Lauren corduroy shirt, crafted with fine-wale corduroy and adorned with the signature embroidered Pony. The brand's iconic cable-knit sweaters also come into play, made from luxurious wool and cashmere yarn sourced from Italy.
The collection is available in store and online.
Burberry introduces a capsule featuring a seasonal iteration of the Burberry Check, as well as a B snake on a wide array of garments.
The distinctive design of Burberry's Bubble sneaker exudes a playful charm with its rounded silhouette and enhanced by the subtle B snake detail.
The collection is available in stores and online.
This collection brings together some of Tod's most iconic designs, including the timeless Gommino and the sleek T Vintage Sneakers. Each piece is reimagined in a vibrant colour palette that honours the spirit of the season, in shades of red—a nod to the colour's significance in Chinese culture as a symbol of luck and prosperity.
The collection is available in stores and online.
Creative director Adrian Appiolaza takes inspiration from a painting by Franco Moschino, back in the late '80s, where a three-dimensional stuffed snake framed the artwork. Reimagining this piece for the Chinese New Year, he infuses it with signature Moschino symbols, reinterpreted with a snake motif. Emblems like the peace sign and question mark are given a playful, serpentine twist.
The collection is available in stores and online.
If there's one thing that's certain during Paris Fashion Week Men's, is that artistic director Kim Jones will dig deep into Dior's archives for a contemporary reimagining of the spirit of Christian Dior. The Dior Men Winter 2025 collection will certainly be all that and perhaps, more.
There's already a clear teasing of this from the physical invitations sent out. As per Dior Men custom, the invite came packed with a zipped folio—this time around, it's plain black with a classic Christian Dior tag in leather. The invitation card features a lily of the valley motif that's become synonymous with the House. If there's a prediction to be made, it does look like Jones could be presenting a very pared back collection focused on silhouette and make, with some couture elements thrown into the mix.
For confirmation of what the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 24 January 2025 at 10pm Singapore time
Saturday during Paris Fashion Week Men's is Hermès day.
Longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian is taking a slightly different approach this season, switching up the runway show format once again. While show attendees will be watching the show live in Paris at 3pm (10pm Singapore time), the show film will only be screened a couple of hours later. A little bit of a delayed gratification, if you will.
Nichanian has cemented Hermès' menswear look for decades now—founded on classic staples designed with clean lines and an occasional nuance of playfulness. Based on the teasers, she's most likely sticking to a relatively modern, oversized silhouette with hues that's already synonymous with the Hermès menswear universe. What surprises will Nichanian include throughout the collection? That, we will have to wait and discover.
For confirmation of what the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Sunday, 26 January 2025 at 12am Singapore time
The Year of the Snake means its time to shed the old and welcome the new. As unpredictable like life, we utilise the game of Snakes and Ladders; where the highs and lows are what every child of the Zodiac goes through. For added sparkles in getting through the new year—for yourself or a significant other—we’ve curated items tailored to each characteristic from from Raffles City Singapore, with illustrated
assist by thejontan
Chinese artist Wu Qiong’s interpretation of Guan Yu—a famed military general who served under the warlord Liu Bei—is what one wouldn’t necessarily associate with a fierce, deified warrior. Rounding out the facial features and immortalising an innocent expression, there’s a certain mysterious quality to the artwork that’ll sit rather beautifully in the home of the equally enigmatic Snake.
Ode to Art
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This quilted tote bag may look all glossy and precious, but it’s actually quite the workhorse. Crafted from a foundation of upcycled nylon with kappa leather trims, the CABaN by Patricia Urquiola piece is entirely
padded for both comfort and aesthetic. With a roomy interior, you’re able to lug just about anything, while its structure allows the bag to be relatively lightweight and sturdy at the same time.
LUMINE
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The first film in the planned Creation of the Gods trilogy was released in 2023 and is already regarded as one of the greats in Chinese cinema. BOSS references the epic film’s typography and patterns of bronzeware of the Shang and Zhou dynasties, creating a double-B monogram in a gold tone that’s affixed like a military badge of honour. In other words, perfect for future and upcoming GOATs.
BOSS
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Any man who’s smart and sharp (you know, like the Monkey) would know that a red lip is one of the sexiest things a woman could wear. Guerlain’s special edition of its customisable lipstick is a fiery combination of two contrasting shades, with a marbled bullet inspired by the undulations of a snake. And to top it all off, a collector’s jewel case is decorated with a textured finish that’s both artistic and luxurious.
Guerlain
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We can’t all be like the Rooster and rise at every crack of dawn. But with a little assistance, we can definitely be the proverbial early bird. Bacha Coffee’s gift set of six varieties of coffee ensures that your mornings will be off to a great start as your senses are awaken by the discovery of new smells and tastes of the unique harvests.
Bacha Coffee
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There’s a sense of prudence embedded in Givenchy’s Prisme Libre SkinCaring Glow Cushion. The liquid foundation isn’t just mere makeup; it also has skincare benefits. Promising 24 hours of glow, wear, and hydration, the formulation is also water-resistant and protects from daily UV exposure: a definite non-negotiable in today’s climate. And look, you could very well gift this to her, but it’s 2025, men wear makeup too.
Givenchy Beauty
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If golf is something you’ve recently picked up and intend on keeping diligent at, the right fit is needed. DESCENTE’s lightweight duo consisting of a golf cap and a polo T-shirt are the kind of golfing essentials you’d want to buy multiples of. The former is designed with side vents for better comfort and enhanced moisture-wicking, and the latter offers UPF100+ protection while you’re upping your game with each swing.
DESCENTE
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Nibble your way into the new year with a splendid assortment of 24 Venchi chocolates—including the brand's signature Chocoviar. Because you're kind like the Rat, gifting them to spread some much needed festive cheer is made easier with the vibrant gift box that they're packed in. But if you'd rather indulge in one for every single day of Chinese New Year, no one will judge too—they're that good.
Venchi
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Concocted by Dominique Ropion, HOPE is both a celebration of oud as an essence and the human emotion it’s named after. Smoky and leathery oud notes are balanced with the freshness of pink pepper, the warmth of vetiver, and the depth of incense. The fragrance truly unfolds over time, opening up to one who observes and is patient enough to discover its true intricacies—much like hope itself. This new year, be determined like the Ox to have hope in everything.
Editions De Parfums Frédéric Malle
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Like its namesake, there’s no telling what Onitsuka Tiger would come up with as a new interpretation of its beloved MEXICO 66 silhouette. A special edition has been rendered in cream-coloured calf leather with two-toned red accents. Traditional Chinese knot patterns are incorporated onto the insole as well as the Onitsuka Tiger Stripes as graphic nods to the occasion. With a pair, you’re stepping into the new year both with style and some extra confident energy.
Onitsuka Tiger
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The racing appeal of the TAG Heuer Carrera is universal. While it may be instantly recognisable, there’s also a quiet elegance (much like the Rabbit) to it that’s timeless. This particular iteration is a solid gold construction that adds a more luxurious edge while keeping to its sporty roots. Whether you’re intending on this year that you’re making or prioritising time, this is the timepiece for you.
TAG Heuer
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There’s a clever, almost ingenious, quality to this special duo of candles by Acqua di Parma. Both candles light up but if not in use, invert the yellow candle and place it over the regular one and it looks like it is wearing a hat. Chapeau!
Acqua di Parma
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Find out more about Raffles City's "Spring in the City".
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Art Direction: Joan Tai
Styling: Asri Jasman
Illustrations: thejontan
Photography Assistants: Nowo Kasturi and Tawfiq Ismail
2024 was relatively not a great year for fashion and luxury as a whole. And now that we've kicked off 2025 proper, shifting branding and marketing strategies are taking effect with the upcoming Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show season showing the first signs of how brands are seeking to ensure newness beyond the collections.
That's not to say that there's very little to look forward to during the year's first slate of fashion shows and presentations—it's quite the contrary. Making early headlines are some eagerly anticipated debuts as well as welcomed returns to the official fashion calendar. Here, we list them all down so you won't be missing a beat when the time comes.
There will be plenty of fashion brands and houses that have opted out of the Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show calendar, focusing instead on co-ed showings during the women's shows in February and March. Gucci, Moschino, Fendi, DSquared2 and JWAnderson will be absent from Milan, while Loewe (surprisingly) has bowed out of this season's Paris Fashion Week Men's calendar.
After a brief showing in June last year, Moschino decided to release its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection (together with its Pre-Autumn 2025 womenswear collection) as a lookbook back in December. Sparking a trend of a return to co-ed runway shows, Gucci, DSquared2 and Fendi will instead show during the womenswear show calendar—Fendi will also officially start its 100th anniversary celebrations without an artistic director for its womenswear universe.
The Milan Fashion Week Men's calendar may be looking rather sparse without the presence of several flagship brands, but the usual big-named favourites remain. Prada and its host of famous attendees are scheduled in its usual spot, so will Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, and Zegna is set to close Milan in true sartorial form.
After multiple seasons of showing off-calendar, Saint Laurent will be making its Paris Fashion Week return. Sort of. While its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show won't exactly be part of the official calendar, which ends on 26 January, it's still the closest it has been for a while.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello is scheduled to show his latest menswear creations for Saint Laurent on 28 January 2025, right smack in the middle of Haute Couture Week. In any case, the show will certainly be one to watch as Vaccarello has certainly come into his own in the past few seasons, especially when it comes to the House's menswear universe—unifying the vision and look of the House as a whole.
After a year of opening boutiques in New York City and London, another brand that will be making its Paris Fashion Week return is Jacquemus. Known for showing somewhat off-calendar and away from Paris, Jacquemus' last Paris Fashion Week Men's showing was back in 2020. The brand has been focusing on co-ed runway shows since, with an overall sense of dramatic theatricality reflected in both its show locations as well as its designs. While there's little information of where the show will take place, there's little doubt that founder and designer Simon Porte Jacquemus will be putting on a show made to go viral on social media.
Let's face it: Lanvin hasn't exactly been quite the same since the late Alber Elbaz was its creative director. British designer Peter Copping—he had most recently spent five years at Balenciaga—was named Lanvin's newest artistic director in June 2024 and is set to show his first collection for the brand, closing out Paris Fashion Week Men's on the eve of Haute Couture Week.
Copping's Lanvin debut won't be the only debut of the season. In Paris alone, a couple of brands will be making their first appearance in the City of Lights.
American designer Willy Chavarria will make his Paris debut after years of being a New York Fashion Week fixture on 24 January, before the Kenzo show in the evening. And on the second day of Paris Fashion Week Men's, British brand S.S.DALEY—the brand that Harry Styles himself owns a minority stake in—will open the day's proceedings.
There will unfortunately (to the disappointment of this style director) not be a Dries Van Noten show by newly installed creative director Julian Klausner this time around. However, it's been said that the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection will instead be dropped in a lookbook and presentation format, showcasing a first look into Klausner's vision for the beloved brand.
For all the first-person encounters during Paris Fashion Week Men's for the Autumn/Winter 2025 show season, follow @esquiresg.
It was in October 2023 that Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones released the first Dior Icons capsule collection. Fronted by Robert Pattinson—an indelible face of the House—the collection was an exercise in restraint with a curation of pieces meant to act as a contemporary wardrobe for the Dior man.
The concept hasn’t changed a year later. For Spring 2025, the Dior Icons capsule collection continues to be centred around a complete wardrobe meant to be versatile and timeless enough to get one well-equipped for just about any occasion. And while the overall vibe remains discreet and luxurious, Jones has doubled down on interpreting house iconographies in a manner that stays true to the original vision of the capsule.
For example, the use of pale pink. Dior may be more famously known for its characteristic grey hue, yet pink is also among one of the colours that have grown to be part of the House’s haute couture visual vocabulary. In fact, Jones’ first Dior Men collection paid homage to the bluish-toned shade of pink (inspired by Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville) with a spate of tailoring. For the latest Dior Icons capsule, Jones introduced pale pink into the mix as a sort of palette cleanser to its earthy foundations. Pale pink polo shirts come in two versions—one crafted in a lightweight knit, and another that casts a luxurious sheen.
The Dior Cannage and Oblique are inescapable motifs. Present in the capsule since its first drop, the maxi version of the Cannage is focused on tactile applications in the form of cable-knit tops. They’re enhanced this time around by cashmere, and in the capsule’s more outstanding pieces, a mock-neck cable-knit vest is decorated with pronounced Cannage lines that’ll cause a double-take on the streets. Along the same vein is the Dior Oblique that appears on bags, accessories and shoes as Dior Gravity Leather creations, serving to complement the more quiet presence of the brand’s ready-to-wear.
Yet, at the heart of the Dior Icons capsule collection is the savoir-faire of the Dior ateliers. Modernising time-honoured craftsmanship for the modern man, the capsule is grounded by classic wide-legged trousers, tailored jackets and long, structured coats—all defined by their impeccable lines and detailed finishes. Because when it comes to Dior, nothing else is as iconic as its craftsmanship.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
For those of us who don’t ski but hit the slopes just for the vibes (well, someone has to hang back and drink all that mulled wine!), keeping warm is essential. And doing so with a little bit of style won’t hurt.
There’s an inherent opulence to that ’70s style that continues to be a point of reference for fashion across the board. It’s not quite an excessive display of richness as much as it is about a sense of frivolous refinement. When it comes to the Italian style of that era, it’s more to do with luxurious tactility than anything else.
The latest Tod’s Holiday Collection heeds said ’70s Italian style, revamping its icons with elevated nuances. Gommino loafers take on more luxurious forms with calf leather and a sleek, branded metal bar, while soft shearling line bags for added warmth. They’re subtle enhancements yet embody the timeless elegance that’s a hallmark of Tod’s craftsmanship.
The brand’s Winter Gommino too gets an upgrade in time for the holidays. You may not be able to put them on and attach them to ski bindings (maybe just not yet), but the Winter Gomminos have become a Tod’s classic you’d want to bust out every winter season. Each is shaped like an ankle boot that’s built upon the famed Tod’s rubber pebbled sole for maximum comfort. A new desert boot style is introduced this time around, offering a shorter option for those who prefer the silhouette. Both the ankle boot and desert boot styles are expertly crafted by Tod’s artisans in suede and leather—a brilliant versatile duo of materials that works both day and night; in the city or at the ski lodge.
Here’s an unexpected discovery: Google “Pharrell Williams” and “ski” in whatever permutation you can think of and you’ll come across a number of videos of skiers dancing to Williams’ infectious “Happy” hit. One video has even racked up 7.5 million views on YouTube. They’re largely from 10 years ago when, inspired by Williams’ official music video, fans of the song decided to create their own interpretations in the thousands—and for some reason, a number just so happens to be of people at ski resorts.
No one could have predicted that years down the road, Williams would go on to design ski wear. Louis Vuitton’s latest ski collection is Williams’ first as the Maison’s men’s creative director and, as one would expect, takes reference from the principles of his menswear proposals.
Louis Vuitton is no stranger to the sport, of course. It first released a ski-focused capsule collection in 2021 and has since continued to build on the aesthetics across both ski and après-ski offerings. This latest collection carries through the functionality required to participate in the sport with the infusion of state-of-the-art sustainability elements. Recycled fabrications are heavily used to construct ski suits and shell suits in order to limit the use of virgin materials and thus, reducing environmental impact. It may not exactly be the first consideration of any avid skier, but given the need to be more mindful of our environmental impact, and not to mention help ensure a future where skiing isn’t lost to climate change, it’s a welcome one.
The collection employs Williams’ Damoflage motif—a reimagining of Louis Vuitton’s Damier checks as a camouflage pattern—as an arctic adaptation that’s referred to as Damoflage Snow. The wintry palette of Damoflage Snow adorns everything from a technical ski shell suit (so that you’re a blur on the slopes) and an après-ski fleece tracksuit to accessories such as technical ski mittens and a reversible wool beanie. Damoflage Snow also informs the colour palette of the entire collection that’s replete with blacks, greys and whites.
On the more technical front, the collection has pretty much everything covered. Ski trousers are voluminous and padded, and a technical ski underlayer and its matching leggings are both crafted in mixed materials for extra protection. The LV Blizzard boot is constructed to be both durable and waterproof with an inside sock function as well as snow-proof ankle drawstring and ruching, while the LV Trainer and LV Trainer Snow have been reconstructed into technical waterproof performance sneakers. And to keep your eyes protected, the LV Snowfall ski mask is water- and fog-resistant, and crafted with a UV-protection, three-layer mask insulation with an adjustable strap (monogrammed of course) to ensure a comfortable, customised fit.
So, does Williams ski? Based on this first collection alone, he likely does. Or at the very least, has managed to put himself in the boots of a skier to create a collection that melds style and ski functionality—and that should make this season’s skiers rather happy.
