The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show season has already begun. After Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan Fashion Week Men's will officially kick off with Gucci, marking the menswear debut of creative director Sabato De Sarno. And once again, for the second time, the show is being referred to as Gucci Ancora ("again" in Italian).
The Gucci Ancora women's campaign was just released days ago featuring the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection that signalled De Sarno's vision for the House. Included as part of the campaign were a couple of images of male models in denim jeans, holding on to Gucci Jackie bags. While the official press release explicitly avoided referencing the male models, it's safe to assume that Gucci's Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will be a continuation of the Gucci Ancora aesthetic—pared back with a reiteration of Gucci elegance in the form of cut and silhouette.
The womenswear debut focused heavily on the Jackie as the bag of the season. The menswear debut could follow along the same vein or continue to refocus the attention on the Horsebit creations—an icon that was the House's key push leading up to the release of De Sarno's first collection.
But for any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week.
What: Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Friday, 12 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time
And just like that, the Christmas decorations have gone down and we're on our way to celebrate a new Lunar Year. It's a rather special one too—the Year of the Dragon is arguably the most celebrated of the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac. It may not have topped the mythological race that determined the order of the Lunar Calendar (that honour goes to the Rat, for the uninitiated) but the Dragon's powerful stature and connotations confer it the most favoured Zodiac.
It's a given then that the Year of the Dragon capsule collections this year have been amped up in line with the Dragon's popularity as well as its sought-after traits of power, nobility, success, and luck.
We can't guarantee that your year will be for the better wearing even just one of these new threads. But at the very least, you're taking some ownership of it and that's something even the most skeptic of persons could get behind.
Kenzo's capsule collection features motifs that you're already familiar with from the brand. The Kenzo tiger remains a key insignia that's apparent in the collection's ready-to-wear range, with a dragon motif making its appearance. On Kenzo bombers, souvenir jackets, hoodies and more, the dragon takes a figure-eight formation, while a more stylised interpretation is fitted onto back pockets of denims and a slew of lightweight jerseys and tracksuits.
The Kenzo Lunar New Year capsule is now available in Kenzo boutiques.
Newly crowned Bottega Veneta brand ambassador Shu Qi stars in The First Sunrise with You, a campaign short by director Jess Jing Zou. The film depicts scenes of Shu Qi and a host of other individuals—friends, romantic partners, and families—venturing out and watching the sun rise in anticipation of a new year. Accompanying them are a number of pieces specially crafted to the Year of the Dragon. The Orbit sneakers are rendered in new colours (including a rather soothing orange), a dragon motif is interwoven as part if the House's Intrecciato technique on a tote, and the beloved Jodie is trimmed with a handle inspired by a dragon's tail.
Dior Men's version of the Dragon is perhaps the most adorable of the lot. In collaboration with Japanese artist Otani Workshop, Tanilla the green monster is the central character that's featured in a myriad of ways throughout the capsule collection. The dragon-like creature is prominent on a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including on the Dior Oblique in Lunar New Year appropriate burgundy and pink hues. Splashes of red run rampant throughout too—both as a nod to one of Monsieur Dior's favourite colours as well as the festivities.
The Dior & Otani Workshop capsule collection is now available in Dior Men boutiques and on dior.com.
Emporio Armani taps on its global ambassador Jackson Yee to be the face of its Year of the Dragon collection. The colour palette of the collection is kept relatively simple and wearable with black and red. The Emporio Armani logo is then paired with an embroidered dragon motif—both done largely in gold—to pile on the symbols of prosperity and fortune. Opt for just one single piece from the collection and you're good to go.
Like many others in this edit, Polo Ralph Lauren's latest Lunar New Year collection sees its very own interpretation of the dragon. The brand takes a more traditional slant with a multicoloured version placed front and centre on clasic Polo Ralph Lauren staples. But what the brand captured exceptionally well is the shade of red—a tasteful hue that's not too bright and not too muted. It's beautifully executed on a reworked Oxford shirt decorated with frog fastenings, and even a classic jumper.
The Polo Ralph Lauren Lunar New Year collection is now available in stores and online.
Trust Loewe to commission master craftsmen as part of its Lunar New Year capsule collection. Simply referred to as the Jade collection, master jade carvers Xiaojin Yin, Qijing Qiu, and Lei Cheng each created a series of five limited edition pendants mounted onto gold chains. In addition to the limited edition pieces, Loewe expands its Flamenco series with the Purse Mini bags in colours inspired by antique jade carvings, with each bag containing an attached ring of jade in its corresponding colour on the inside. Charms and key chains are also part of the mix—each combined with signature Loewe motifs.
The Loewe Jade collection is now available in boutiques and online.
MCM and BAPE® return for another capsule collection. This time, the BAPE® logo is entwined with a dragon and is featured on every piece in the collection, including a Visetos-decorated Shark hoodie. MCM's signature silhouettes the likes of its Backpack, Belt Bag, Crossbody, Boston and more, have been transformed even further with the inclusion of a transparent version of BAPE®'s camouflage pattern. This is definitely not a collection for anyone with minimalist leanings.
The MCM and BAPE® collaboration is now available in select MCM and BAPE® stores.
Burberry does things the Burberry way. Building on British wardrobe archetypes and Burberry signatures, its Lunar New Year collection refreshes classic checks and house motifs in vibrant hues of red. The seasonal rose motif is also seen in full bloom, perfectly matching new eyewear styles. And if you need a reference of how to pull off the collection's patterns, you'd only need to look to brand ambassador Chen Kun for inspiration.
The Burberry Lunar New Year collection is now available in boutiques and online.
The Moncler logo has been reimagined specifically for its latest Lunar New Year collection. The outline has been replaced with the head of a dragon. Three looks for men have been created for the collection, with quilting designed to resemble the scales of a dragon and body armour. So if you've already made plans for the last remnants of snow on the slopes or just a winter holiday over Lunar New Year, there's no better collection than this.
The Moncler Year of the Dragon collection is now available in select Moncler boutiques.
The OG dragon of the Pokémon series, Dragonite, together with its pre-evolutions take centrestage in a three-way collaboration with Fendi, Hiroshi Fujiwara's Fragment, and Pokémon. The collaboration goes as simple as a tee and hoodie printed with the charismatic dragon Pokémon to leather marquetry of Dratini and Dragonite on Mini Baguette and Baguette bags respectively. Galvanised brass jewellery combines the FF logo with Pokémon signatures such as a Poké Ball (that opens up to reveal the FF logo) as well as Dratini and Dragonair.
The Fendi x FRGMT x Pokémon collection is now available in select Fendi boutiques and online.
Considering that Hedi Slimane is constantly inspired by music and uses it as a way of crafting the narrative of each collection—his runway shows for Celine often involves commissioned music pieces—Celine-branded audio accessories ought to be a given. It has been almost six years since he's assumed the position of the luxury brand's creative, artistic and image director, and we're finally getting just that.
The first Celine wireless headphones made their debut on the brand's Summer 2024 womenswear runway. To the tune of a specially commissioned extended version of "Too Much Love" by LCD Soundsystem, the all-black headphones were seen around the necks of a number of models—styled as an accessory to complete a look more than anything. But thankfully, they're capable of more than making one look a tad cool.
Celine has partnered up with Master & Dynamic for its first foray into the audio space. If you're already familiar with Master & Dynamic, you'd know that the audio brand is universally known for its make, rich audio quality, and signature design. Celine's variation is an aesthetic update of the MH40 model identifiable by its lightweight anodised aluminium body. Both the headband and removable ear pads are crafted from supple lambskin, with the capabilities of the MH40—Bluetooth 5.2 connectivity, noise isolation, and up to 30 hours of battery life—ensuring that the audio experience is as luxe as it gets.
While its runway debut only showcased the all-black iteration, the Celine headphones come in three colourways: the aforementioned all-black, black and silver, and tan and silver. The black-and-silver iteration features "Celine" right on the exterior of each speaker; the all-black as well as the tan-and-silver colourways are decorated with the Celine Triomphe motif at the same spots. The partnership goes as far as adding more subtle details such as "Celine Paris" laser-engraved on the included charging cables, and "Designed and developed in Paris" marked on the right headphone.
The retail price? Well, it is a collaborative effort and branded with the signatures of a luxury fashion house so SGD1,350 isn't exactly out of left field. At the very least, it does more than say, a white shirt by Celine that also retails for around the same price.
The Celine wireless headphones will be available in boutiques and online soon.
If you're already feeling the blues about being officially back to work after a weekend of some intense New Year-partying (the hangover doesn't get any easier, does it?), RIMOWA is turning those emotions into something more pleasant. That's right, a few days in to 2024 and we're already getting a new colour for the RIMOWA Essential series.
Like the many other colours prior, Sea Blue takes inspiration from the myriad of destinations that a RIMOWA luggage could potentially bring one to. While the rest may have been more specific in their points of reference, Sea Blue takes a more generic approach but one that just about anyone can appreciate. The regenerative influence of the sea—pretty appropriate given the new year—inspired the soft, pastel-hued Sea Blue that's still richly saturated yet calming at the same time. It's best captured in the series of shorts lensed by Francesco Nazardo. Set against the interiors and poolside of a 1950s home located in the outskirts of Barcelona, the Sea Blue series is beautifully highlighted as a soothing accessory.
If you're already familiar with RIMOWA's Essential series, its interior remains dependable as ever albeit slightly reworked. What used to be two separate compartments divided by the brand's adjustable Flex Divider, one side is now equipped with fully zipped lining designed for more secure storage. The main compartment (where the telescopic handles are housed) is separated by the Flex Divider that's also fitted with a zipped compartment enough for small loose items.
Aside from the main trio of the Essential collection—Cabin, Check-In L, and Trunk Plus—Sea Blue is also available in a range of travel accompaniments. A toiletry pouch and packing cubes in three different sizes complete the offering meant to help make organisation a breeze.
Question now is: Where's the destination?
The RIMOWA Essential collection in Sea Blue will be available in boutiques and online from 4 January 2024.
There are a number of things that male Korean celebrities and idols have in common. The chiselled jawline, the perfect nose bridge, seemingly poreless, porcelain skin, and disarming boyishness. To complete the package, they also tend to be devoid of facial hair, save for perfectly shaped eyebrows.
It’s not enough that these examples of contemporary male beauty possess the visual exuberance of a 21-year-old in his physical prime, they also have underarms so smooth and clear that they can be likened to vanilla ice cream. I mean, one can’t help but notice this when male members of K-pop groups opt to wear sleeveless outfits during their energetic dance performances.
Now, I’m not saying that I’m affected by these rather impossible standards—not only are those underarms hairless, they also look unbelievably smooth—I am however a fan of keeping things clean and groomed. And having hairless underarms does have its benefits. For one, it reduces the chance for the accumulation of bacteria. Hairy pits give bacteria something more to cling on to and thrive in, and subsequently cause that after-workout funk, or that end-of-day earthiness simply by living in a humid climate.
Hair has a tendency to retain moisture, which means hairy pits also often translate to visible wet underarm patches. And while sweating is normal and healthy, having perspiration seep through clothing isn’t exactly a good look. Depending on whether you’re for deodorants and antiperspirants (typically aluminium-based to temporarily block sweat pores) or their more natural alternatives, a hairless underarm also provides a smoother canvas that increases their efficiency.
I’ll have to confess that I am mildly obsessed with hair removal. After all, I have tried pretty much every at-home solution. Like most guys, I started out with the standard shaving routine. It’s fast and idiot-proof; I typically had zero issue or experienced any nick from using a Gillette razor. But the downside to shaving is the potential for ingrown hair. The constant scraping action of shaving can also lead to minor cuts to the skin and exacerbate hyperpigmentation, making skin appear darker—definitely not K-pop-star-approved.
Forget about hair-removing creams. My experience with them has never been positive. They either didn’t work as advertised or weren’t as effective as the razor. Then, there was the one time I decided to try out an at-home waxing kit in preparation for a marathon run. In the interest of reducing abrasion to the skin during the long-distance run (it happens around the underarm area too, especially after a bumpy shave), I laid out the components in the kit and read the instructions carefully before proceeding. Let’s just say I’m glad I didn’t begin the experiment with a DIY-Boyzilian (the male variant of a Brazilian that involves removing hair from the front and back of the pubic region), because not only did I suffer from post-marathon abrasion, some skin was ripped off in the process.
“There’s almost ZERO downtime with waxing. I can (and I do) use my lunchtime on a work day to go to a waxing salon near the office, spend about an hour for a BOYZILIAN and underarm hair removal, and then head back to my desk without anyone knowing I just had my FOLLICLES STRIPPED OFF of me.”
As effective as self-waxing strips are, the quality of the pre-attached wax is nowhere near what professional salons use. And they’re messy and hard to manoeuvre on yourself—the strips need to be at the absolutely perfect angle to work. The risk of getting it wrong—clearly, in my case—is pretty high.
Professional waxing is probably the best temporary hair removal technique out there. There’s still some degree of pain involved unfortunately, but results typically last for a couple of weeks. After repeated visits, regrowth is generally slower and you may only need to go just once a month.
There’s almost zero downtime with waxing. I can (and I do) use my lunchtime on a work day to head to a waxing salon near the office, spend about an hour for a Boyzilian and underarm hair removal, and then head back to my desk without anyone knowing I just had follicles stripped off of me. All one has to avoid for the next couple of hours are exercising and showering with hot water, or anything else that could irritate the open pores of a waxed area.
While the usual waxing salon I frequent isn’t too shabby with its private rooms and sterile environment, a visit to STRIP’s Ion Orchard outlet proved to be a luxurious experience. There’s nothing clinical about its deep coloured walls and interior furnishings as well as the plush bed in the middle that all together resembles more of a private boudoir than a salon.
Homegrown brand STRIP has been at it for 21 years now and has expanded to eight other cities in the region. As part of its 21st-anniversary celebrations, a special STRIP Birthday Wax had been formulated especially for Boyzilian procedures. And like its name suggests, the wax smells like how a vanilla birthday cake would, which in hindsight, is perhaps not the kind of visuals one would want while getting hair removed from sensitive areas. But it smelt delicious and one can hardly complain to that.
“Do you see more guys getting waxed nowadays,” I asked my Waxpert (STRIP’s term for its wax specialists), ignoring my cardinal rule of never making conversation with the person you’re exposing your groin and crack to at the salon, all in the interest of journalism.
“Yes, of course!” she answered without skipping a beat, before asking me to take a deep breath and proceeding to yank a strip off. Surprisingly, the pain was minimal.
The pain element is inevitable—you’re essentially removing hair follicles right at the root. But experienced and well-trained specialists make quick work of it, which helps in reducing the pain whether it’s underarm hair removal or the more sensitive Boyzilian. Anything around the scrotum though, is bound to be the most painful owed to the fact that the skin is thin in that area. You might jerk from the swift motion or even yelp, but they’re all most definitely normal reactions that you don’t have to be embarrassed about. These wax specialists have probably seen it all.
You might be wondering at this point, why bother going through the pain? Especially when intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment is a pain-free option and lasts far longer. With IPL treatment, however, multiple sessions are required with results typically more visible after at least four sessions. Conversely, waxing is immediate, especially if you’re pressed for time and are not willing to wait for four months for smooth, hairless skin.
At the end of the day, it boils down to one’s personal choice, and I don’t just mean waxing versus IPL treatments.
Hair removal isn’t a necessity; it’s a preference. Having hairy pits doesn’t equate to being hyper-masculine nor does the lack of it means one is any less. For me, it’s not even about adhering to a new standard of male beauty; it’s about feeling more hygienic and knowing that I’m not the cause of a lone hair sticking on the rim of a urinal. Having said that, for the love of mankind, at least trim those bushes, bro.
When the Horsebit loafer was first conceived by Gucci—specifically by Aldo Gucci, the eldest son of founder Guccio Gucci—it was said to be a response to loafers popularised by preppy Americans. Gucci was to open its first New York City boutique in 1953. The Horsebit loafer was the perfect design to kickstart an American expansion. It was a familiar silhouette with the addition of an Italian flair—very Gucci.
The use of the snaffle bit within Gucci predates the Horsebit loafer. The House had already incorporated it since the 1950s when it began drawing inspiration from the equestrian world. The metallic double ring connected by a bar was taken from the bit on a horse’s bridle, and was used across different facets of the Gucci universe both as a decorative motif as well as a functional element.
One could even say that the creation of the Horsebit loafer was destined to happen. But its arrival at a time when dress codes were changing in favour of more liberal sensibilities, helped propel its popularity. Not only was the Horsebit loafer instantly recognisable, its make and comfort was a mark of Italian craftsmanship. The leather used is supple, and coupled with a construction that lacks an insole, makes the Horsebit loafer lightweight and flexible. One could easily run around in a pair and get it beaten down. Or like Tyler Durden in Fight Club, fight in one.
Gucci has seen numerous creative directors over the decades since, but the Horsebit loafers have been a mainstay. Various interpretations have been brought to the fore recently and will most likely continue to do so under the creative directorship of Sabato De Sarno. Yet, 70 years hasn’t changed the way the Horsebit loafers are crafted. To this day, they’re still produced in Italy, in house, by skilled cobblers. The soles of the Horsebit loafers are also still attached to the uppers with Blake stitching that affords the shoes’ their renowned lightweight and flexible attributes.
The GG monogram and green-red-green webbing may be synonymous with Gucci. But when it comes to a singular design, the Horsebit loafer is one that doesn’t need to be loud to be noticed.
Dwyane Wade—the NBA luminary with 13 All-Star appearances and three championship victories knows about baller pieces. He was recently spotted in Miami, donning Aequa & Co.'s Thick Curb Chain, which paired well with his refined, silky floral prints for a relaxed and confident vibe. A relative newcomer in the world of Aequa & Co. caught the eye of Wade, as well as the attention of the fine jewellery world.
In the midst of age-old luxury establishments, Aequa & Co. is a breath of fresh air. As an avant-garde trailblazer, it broke barriers to introduce a more inclusive era in men's fine jewellery. Departing from the conventional, Aequa & Co.'s artisans (who hailed from esteemed maisons like Cartier and BVLGARI) are pioneering a daring renaissance. Mixing each creation with raw innovation and artistic freedom, you get an exhilarating departure from the safe confines of traditional labels. It's a contemporary collection resonating with potency, adaptability and genuine opulence.
Crafted exclusively from premium, ethically sourced materials—ranging from 14K to 18K solid gold, natural diamonds, pearls, and gemstones—Aequa & Co. caters to the discerning tastes of the modern man. It yields sophistication and yet won't break the bank. Aequa & Co. can circumvent the hefty price tags by overseeing the entire production in-house and bypassing intermediaries and exorbitant markups.
Whether you dress up or down, your Aequa piece seamlessly adapts to every setting. Their offering is a subtle yet distinctive statement that complements any ensemble effortlessly. From morning meetings to evening soirees, its subtle elegance punctuates your style, elevating every moment with an understated touch of sophistication.
And now you know: in the pursuit of that lap of luxury, it's readily accessible; just a mere step away from looking like Dwyane Wade or just looking like a million bucks.
Is it too late to say the footwear and apparel collection entail a series of inspired gifts, installations and games this entire month? Maybe. Doesn't mean you can't drop everything you're doing this very moment and rush down to flagship store adidas Brand Centre Orchard (BCO).
Some history for meaning and significance. These shoes made appearances on global runways and most famously on the feet of Pharrell Williams, were first introduced at the 1950 World Cup in Brazil. The combination of fitted leather panels, padded suede toe box and incredible grip from the rubber outsole made the Samba—dare we say it—the best-known indoor soccer shoe of its time. It allegedly offered players a one-to-one fit and unmatched kicking precision.
Naturally, the sleek, instantly recognisable design paired with the iconic 3-Stripes design then made its way into British youth fashion circles. And now, an icon for the brand. So much so that it got its own modern rendition, the Sambae. By altering the proportions of the timeless trainers through the lens of current fashion sensibilities, it maintains design elements like the suede T-toe box and classic leather upper, yet delivers a chunkier design with an exaggerated rubber platform midsole.
To celebrate this rich heritage, the brand commissioned local artist Iqbal to encapsulate it all in a Streets of Samba mural at the BCO entrance. Besides depicting a a central London street taken over by numerous adidas Samba OGs, the easter egg here is to spot the correct number to win an actual pair of adidas Originals Samba OG or Sambae.
A lowdown of the T&Cs
The contest is open only to adiClub members and public Instagram profiles, via a creative IGS story of the giant installations, the guesses, and @adidassg and #adidasSG tags. Three winners with the correct guesses and most creative submissions will be selected from 8 Jan 2024.
In 1967, Marc Bohan conceptualised the Dior Oblique motif. The longtime creative director of the House (an almost 30-year tenure) first applied the motif on a bag from Dior’s haute couture collection in 1969. Throughout the years, the Dior Oblique has been applied on all manner of pieces by the House— from ready-to-wear to luggage to even the floors of its Dior Monsieur boutique in 1974.
Fast forward to today, the Dior Oblique remains one of Dior’s most quintessential elements. It’s become a mark of the House’s creativity with a range of treatments and interpretations imagined every now and then. The latest, is perhaps one that captures Monsieur Dior’s nonconformist spirit.
The Maxi Dior Oblique revokes any decree that branded logos and motifs are dead. As its name suggests, the Dior Oblique has been blown up like never before for Dior Men’s Spring 2024 collection. Each letter of the motif now takes significant real estate on a range of travel-ready bags and accessories. The collection’s Weekender 40 bag, for example, looks exceptionally roomier with the Maxi Dior Oblique canvas construction giving the illusion of a magnified proportion.
While the Maxi Dior Oblique may look audacious in its original colourway—there’s certainly no mistaking that it’s a Dior—a second all-black option provides a more subtle interpretation but one that’s impactful all the same. The Maxi Dior Oblique is rendered in black and set against a base that’s a couple of shades lighter. When employed on a pair of high-top B23 sneakers, the canvas adds depth and dimension. The motif may not be immediately obvious at first glance, but becomes apparent at multiple angles and in motion.
But the point of the Maxi Dior Oblique isn’t solely for the brash visual of Dior’s signature. It’s an extension of the Dior attitude—of going against the grain and challenging perceptions. After all, this is the same House that proposed a “new look” that further feminised women’s fashion post-World War II.
What’s the inverse of “quiet luxury”? This is it.
It started with shoes.
When Gian Jonathan first saw his friend wear a pair of FBT shoes, he was piqued by how they looked. She told him that they were from the Japanese brand, visvim. That planted a seed in Jonathan. Years later, he would show us an ICT (Indigo Camp Trailer) Noragi Kofu outfit and remark on how hard it was to find it. “This was a special release at an Isetan pop-up,” Jonathan says. “If you look at the construction, the patterns may look random but it’s actually coordinated. Check out the indigo fabric and the kasuri design, which is how they…” Jonathan catches himself and apologises for “geeking out”.
It’s understandable to be lost in the world of visvim. It’s a brand that is uncompromising in its usage of traditional construction for its products. The founder, Nakamura Hiroki, was already well-versed in Americana, having spent time all over Alaska. After quitting his job at the Japanese division of Burton Snowboards, Nakamura decided to form his own label, visvim.
By all accounts, the appellation visvim doesn’t mean anything, at least as a whole. Cribbed from a Latin dictionary, Nakamura loved how the words “vis” and “vim” look and decided to use them as a brand name. (Coincidentally, both words mean “power”.) visvim started as a show company but it grew into a thriving business that has found fans in Eric Clapton and John Mayer.
Years later, during a company trip to Tokyo, Jonathan’s girlfriend (now wife) gifted him a pair of visvim shoes. This would seal Jonathan’s fate as a serial visvim collector.
The clothes that Jonathan collects, while some might be precious with them, Jonathan treats most of them like any other pieces of clothing: washed, folded and worn. He took out a pair of red shorts that were made out of bandanas. He points to the vintage indigo patches that cover the holes incurred from constant wear. “My mom would sew some of the holes in my visvim T-shirts and she’ll tell me to throw them away already because of how worn they are,” Jonathan says.
Jonathan takes the cake for being someone with a wardrobe that’s only filled with visvim products. To his credit, he wore other labels like Kapital, which is known for its traditional manufacture. “But the cutting and distressing are a little overwhelming for me,” he says. “It’s too much. For visvim, they know how to balance out the perfect and the imperfect.”
There are some downsides to having such a varied visvim range. For one, the weather in Singapore isn’t the most ideal for some of the thicker pieces. Jonathan can only wear them in cooler climates like Japan. And with the arrival of his two children, Jonathan has to make concessions to his collection. “When the firstborn arrived, he was always grabbing at my visvim jewellery and putting them into his mouth. I had to sell the accessories off. Maybe when they are older, I might start collecting again.”
Back then, when he first started collecting, there wasn’t enough information about how visvim processes its outfits. It was through meeting with other like-minded people, online forums and Google translate that Jonathan was able to develop his knowledge about many of visvim’s esoteric processes.
One such method is katazurizome. It’s a dyeing technic that places paper stencils on top of a fabric and a brush rubs dye into it. This process requires a high level of discipline that only an experienced craftsman possesses.
There’s also a visvim arm that makes products via “natural means”. Called “ICT”, which stands for “Indigo Camping Trailer”, the construction of products can utilise Japanese indigo to traditional mud dyeing techniques to the incorporation of vintage fabrics.
Jonathan feels that he may have about a hundred visvim pieces, the scarcity of space in his home has nudged him to store some of them at his office. His IG account (@gian2) showcases the outfits that he finds interesting. He has somewhat catalogued his collection, or at least, the more precious items. “I told my wife that if anything were to happen to me, don’t anyhow sell my things. Just refer to the list.”
He recounts the time that he bought a fake. “It’s a short-sleeved shirt, naturally dyed with a Japanese print. When it arrived, there were no alarm bells. The fit is the same. It came with its dust bag.” But on the way back, he placed more scrutiny on the item and realised that the prints of the shirt did not bleed through the fabric. The outfit also felt thicker.” Jonathan had an existing shirt and compared the two, which corroborated his suspicions.
These days, Jonathan is more careful; often corroborating with the online visvim community on suspected items online. There is a modicum of awe though in the high technical level of a fake visvim piece. Even fakers who are cashing in on visvim’s popularity are trying to meet the brand’s exacting standards.
There is someone who doesn’t share Jonathan’s enthusiasm for visvim. A framed pair of FBT RICO-FOLK shoes hangs on the wall of the master bedroom. Taken from visvim’s children’s range, the afterthought of Ernest Hemingway’s shortest story popped into our heads. We point to them, Starting them young, we joke.
“Oh, I got that for the firstborn but he doesn’t like it,” Jonathan says, laughing. “He said it wasn’t comfortable."
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Art Direction: Joan Tai
Photography Assistant: Chuen Kah Jun
The show that never was. Celine Homme's cancelled Summer 2024 runway show (and its planned after-party with live performances) in July 2023—in light of the protests happening in Paris at the time—turned into a short film. Shot in the same month, it was largely filmed in Paris with interspersed scenes of classical ballet dancer Laurids Seidel shot at the Opéra Garnier Monte-Carlo.
An extended version of LCD Soundsystem's "Losing My Edge" is the soundtrack to the film, bringing the mirrored set to life as models embodying the collection's amplified androgyny walked on in succession. Artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane's aesthetic lies in the rock-and-roll androgyny synonymous with the legendary figures the likes of David Bowie and Mick Jagger. For Summer 2024 however, Slimane took it up a few notches with the adoption of more feminine elements that, quite frankly, Jagger could probably still rock right now.
At heart of the Celine Homme Summer 2024 collection's inspiration was Slimane's prior photography works in the early noughties. New York's underground art scene—featuring artists such as Dash Snow, Slater Bradley, Mathew Cerlett, Dan Colen, Gardar Eide Einarsson, Terence Koh and others—became the focus of an exhibition that Slimane curated in 2007 in Berlin. He later went on to stage his own in Amsterdam as tribute to the same artists. And as somewhat of a culmination of this continued love and tribute for the scene, Slimane also worked with Snow's estate to include artworks from his archive for the collection.
The fit: The standard Slimane look was apparent in Summer 2024. Impeccable tailoring finished off with skinny ties were nods to his Dior Homme era, but then elevated with rhinestones that seemed to give off their own luminescence with every movement. Leather was a heavy focus as seen with trousers crafted with a slight flare as well as some of the collection's standout moments. The latter saw the beautiful execution of a leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out, inspired by 17th-century French court royalty.
The newness that Slimane injected into the collection (and let's face it, the man does what he wants and sometimes that equates to tried-and-tested looks) came in the form of more feminine nuances. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers took on exaggerated ribbon-like forms that wrapped around the waist, and in one look, a leather version was crafted with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seemed to levitate away from the body.
The details: As with most Slimane creations, there was a thoroughly nonchalant attitude about the collection. Sheer fabrications were dressed with rhinestones and sequins, with bare skin almost a given under leather outerwear and embellished cardigans. The same magpie-esque treatment was given to a number of heeled boots for that extra rock-and-roll flair.
Three exceptional looks: The opening look that consisted of a halter-neck top wrapped with satin a bow; look 36's disco-treated suiting; and look 47's billowy top that Harry Styles would certainly look at home in.
The takeaway: Slimane is not really a one-trick pony.
View some of the key looks from the Celine Homme Summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
How does luxury taste? Perhaps, much like the Black Bowmore DB5 1964. Bowmore’s limited release in collaboration with Aston Martin is a rare single malt whisky that offers an intense marriage of ripe exotic fruits with a heady combination of coffee and tobacco smoke. And even if you intend on saving the spirit for special occasions, the exceptional vessel would look striking as part of any collection.
Black, blue and white dials present classic appeal that won’t look out of place in any setting, it’s true. But let this grey-dial Santos-Dumont open you up to an underrated option. The yellow gold accent on the bezel goes handsomely with the grey dial, lifting the shine reflected by the sunray effect and conferring elegance on the whole watch together. There’s no question this is a stunner.
Imagine the power of a Devialet speaker but poured into a tiny, portable packaging—that’s the second generation of the the brand’s Gemini series. The new upgrade promises a deeper acoustic experience with a new Active Wind Reduction technology that serves to actively block out wind noise. Of course, that’s coupled with active noise cancellation too. And is there a better looking, sophisticated design out there than this? We doubt so.
Not many sneakers by luxury fashion houses have managed to combine their respective house codes into a single design without looking forced or even tacky. Dior Men’s B27 successfully incorporates signature Dior elements—the CD Icon, Oblique motif, and a number of logos—all the while retaining the feel of a contemporary sneaker. This blue-and-white colourway is also a classic combination that makes for an easy staple to pair with just about any outfit.
The tie isn’t dead; you’re just not wearing the right one. This cheeky design by Hermès nods to its equestrian heritage while also adding some levity to a typically formal accessory. Interpret it however you want—reneging against formal dress codes or the idea of a nine-to-five workday—but we all instantly know it is destined to become a beloved conversation starter.
Marrying modern technology with the timeless, unparallelled quality of vinyls, JBL’s Spinner BT turntable ensures that your favourite records sound as crisp as they’re made to be. The device’s Bluetooth capabilities uses aptX HD encoding to ensure a reduction in any audio distortion while the sound is transmitted to any wireless speakers or headphones. In other words, drowning down the noise after a long day is now made even more sonically splendid.
Forget what you think you know about lavender as a scent. Le Labo’s latest Lavande 31 eau de parfum challenges the typically sweet and powdery connotations of lavender by adding bergamot and neroli essential oils to a vertical distillation of lavender flower buds. This reveals lavender at its purest form and the result is a fragrance that’s dirty in nature with a heavy emphasis on musk and amber.
With digital wallets fast becoming mainstream, physical wallets are naturally downsizing. This leather cardholder by Loewe features a Suna Fujita illustrated motif that’s not only beautiful, but expertly applied into the design though a leather intarsia technique. The piece itself is convenient with four card slots and a zip compartment that has room enough for coins to buy more than two coffee takeaways.
It’s really for the nostalgia. The flip phones of the noughties were a vibe; nothing felt quite as satisfying as flipping the phone shut after an infuriating call to make a point. Oppo’s N3 flip phone will afford you that same experience and more. The best thing about the N3 is that even when its folded like a clamshell, the vertical cover screen is functional with a host of features that you won’t necessarily have to flip open the phone for basic functions. And when it’s opened up, it’s a seamless 6.8-inch screen with brilliant colour and clarity.
Functional, supple and incredibly lightweight, Tod’s latest iteration of a multi-compartment backpack is easily one of the best we’ve seen this year. Reminiscent of a camping backpack, the backpack is made from hardwearing fabric with the addition of panels of leather. The silver metal hardware complements the design beautifully, adding sophistication to a rugged silhouette. There are a number of colours for the design but this green variation gets our nod.
Any fan of Prada will be glad to know that the luxury fashion brand has released a more extensive homeware collection in Singapore. An easy early entry into Prada’s lifestyle creations is a scented candle housed within a porcelain vessel. Not only is the scent—lavender, if you’re wondering—subtle and inviting, the vessel is also decorated with Prada’s fairy motif that was part of its Spring/Summer 2008 womenswear collection.
After aluminium and polycarbonate, RIMOWA has revealed a leather-fronted line. But before the brand introduced its revolutionary aluminium series, leather was its material of choice. The new Distinct cabin suitcase is crafted from leather that’s wrapped around a solid structure shaped with the signature grooves of a RIMOWA. The corners are reinforced with aluminium in a tonal navy treatment for a seamless and sophisticated look.
Photography: Jayden Tan
Digital Imaging and Retouching: Nguyen Tien Phuc
Photography Assistant: Aisyah Hisham
