When Louis Cartier conceptualised the Tank in 1917, few could have imagined the fame and cultural importance that have become part of the timepiece’s legacy. Today, the Tank collection remains a staple among Cartier’s offerings, with its timeless aesthetic and versatility at the heart of its near- universal appeal. Cartier continues to refresh the Tank with the 2023 editions, reimagined in ways that not only add to, but transcend the seemingly insurmountable limits of horological universality.
The Tank—as its name suggests— has its roots couched in military history. Louis Cartier derived design inspiration for the Tank from the top- down silhouette of the Renault tanks he witnessed on the Western Front in World War I. One of the first few Tanks made was given to General John Pershing, commander of the Paris-based American Expeditionary Force—underscoring its military- inspired beginnings.
Interestingly, however, the timepiece was to find fame far from the mud and gore of the battlefield. It instead went on to become the defining timepiece of Hollywood’s Golden Age, appearing on the wrists of a string of A-listers. Actor Rudolph Valentino famously insisted on wearing his Tank throughout the filming of The Son of the Sheik, despite the obvious anachronism.
Its popularity was not confined to the early 20th century, transcending eras and reaching across gender and disciplines. Personalities from diverse backgrounds—from the realms of philanthropy and politics, to sports and art—were enamoured by the Tank. Appearing on the wrists of icons the likes of John F Kennedy, Princess Diana, Muhammad Ali and Andy Warhol, the Tank became a unisex symbol of elegance. Warhol famously quipped: “I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time. In fact, I never wind it. I wear a Tank because it’s the watch to wear”, which speaks volumes of its universal appeal and cultural significance.
Today, the watch stands as a unique example of design endurance, through its timeless style, versatility and appeal to a wide range of aesthetic sensibilities.
Cartier’s latest refresh of the Tank family pushes the limits of the collection’s universality even further. While the modern Tank family retains the iconic rectangular silhouette and brancards of its predecessors, each new member is also imbued with subtle differences that cater to different sensibilities.
Beginning with the Tank Américaine, the watch’s curved, elongated case mirrors that of the 1921 Tank Cintrée, with the addition of finer, more acrobatic lines that flawlessly integrate the brancards with the extension of the strap. Coupled with the iconic Roman-numerals on the dial, the timepiece’s ergonomic approach and pure form pay tribute to the Tank’s heritage, all while incorporating a contemporary elegance.
The Tank Française has also received a minor facelift that stays true to the monobloc metal design of its predecessors. The 2023 edition notably comes with a new satin-brushed strap with tighter- fitted links that give the timepiece a streamlined and athletic integrated- bracelet aesthetic. Topped off with factory-set diamonds along the brancards, the Tank Française makes for a sporty statement embellished with sophistication.
As with all families, there is always an artistically-inclined child—the Tank family is no different. The newest additions to the Tank Louis Cartier line retain all the design elements of a classic Tank, but are fitted with dazzling new dials that pay homage to the Tank Must dials of the vibrant ’70s. Playing on the concept of echoed elements and mirror constructions, the dials feature graphic motifs in gold, yellow gold, rose gold and white gold, creating optical grids that highlight the texture of geometry and contrasts. A juxtaposition of vintage aesthetics with the bold creativity of art, the Tank Louis Cartier balances the Tank’s historic elegance with artistic inclinations.
Most significantly, however, Cartier has announced that the Tank Normale is this year’s addition to its limited-release “collector’s collection”: Cartier Privé. It is a hotly anticipated inclusion worthy of a feature of its own. It shares many of the iconic design cues from the original 1917 Tank—similar proportions, bevelled sapphire crystal, “railroad track” on the inner dial and 1917 date hidden in the VII numeral. The key difference lies in the Privé Normale’s larger 35.2mm x 27.8mm dimensions. Available in six new designs, the Privé Normale line infuses the essence of the 1917 original with modern appearances, done in true Cartier sophistry and craftsmanship. A release that will more than please the purists, the Privé Normale bridges the gap between Cartier’s past and its present, alongside the other Privé Tank variations.
In a nutshell, the refreshed Tank collection keeps the iconic timepiece in touch with contemporary design cues, while pushing the boundaries of horological universality, making it an enduring icon.
A new collection by a newly installed creative is a big deal, especially when it’s coming out of a storied fashion brand like Burberry.
When chief creative officer Daniel Lee’s debut collection was shown earlier in February during London Fashion Week, there was no denying that Lee’s visual aesthetic for Burberry took a stark departure from his predecessor’s, for which the overall consensus had been that it lacked Britishness for a quintessentially British brand.
While Lee’s collection only began rolling out into boutiques and online in September (that’s a seven-month wait if you’re counting, granted select clientele were given early buying access), the brand had already been releasing campaign visuals progressively. It had been introducing a new Burberry visual vocabulary to act as a sort of palate cleanser before Lee’s vision physically materialised in its entirety. But visuals can only do so much, particularly at a time when people are inundated with a constant flow of them from every direction. And let’s face it, we’ve devolved to have such short attention spans that any clip over 30 seconds is likely to get scrolled past.
Enter Burberry Streets.
The street takeover series was first launched in London for a week in September, coinciding with the Spring/Summer 2024 edition of London Fashion Week. Burberry was serious about the takeover and went as far as to partner up with Transport for London to allow it to temporarily rename Bond Street station to Burberry Street station, including recolouring the roundels in knight blue—Lee’s colour signifier for Burberry. At the same time, North London’s Norman’s cafe played host to a special Burberry menu, had its interiors refurbished with the new Burberry icons, and made its run around London via a food truck.
But that’s only the tip of it. Burberry Streets is conceived to be a travelling series of takeovers around the world, with Seoul and Shanghai as planned stops thus far.
It was in Seoul that we bore witness to how the Burberry rose print and the revived Equestrian Knight Design (EKD)—two key visual elements of Lee’s first collection—peppered the entire city, especially along the hip Seongsu-dong. A precinct that used to house shoemakers and leather factories, Seongsu-dong is now considered one of Seoul’s artistic districts where galleries and cafes are found next to existing manufacturing hubs and warehouses. There’s a certain grittiness to the area, punctuated by colourful graffiti. The campaign saw Burberry Streets take over the space for an entire month, ending on 5 November.
Murals, billboards, flags and awnings featuring the Burberry rose print motif stretched across a 10-minute walk along Seongsu-dong. They seem to be presented at random. At one point, the motif sat right atop the sign for an operational leather workshop, while EKDs were spray-painted on roads. But they all pointed in the direction of three Burberry pop-ups.
The first (depending on where one set out) was at Seongsu Shoe that’s dedicated to all things footwear from the Winter 2023 collection. At the other end was the bright yellow Seongsu Bottle, featuring the colourful hot water bottle accessories that are emblematic of the collection. Both were planned as micro pop-ups to flank the main Seongsu Rose pop-up—a massive space drenched in tarp emblazoned with the rose motif. It was here that visitors got to experience Lee’s debut collection in its entirety. Imagined within a “Petal Maze” installation, the collection is segmented into categories—bags, shoes, menswear, womenswear, accessories and more—encouraging visitors to explore each English rose-inspired element of the installation to get better acquainted with the new Burberry.
To underscore the Britishness of the entire takeover, Burberry brought over Norman’s for a dedicated pop-up right next to Seongsu Rose, serving up an all-day selection of British classics. And of course, also introducing a sliver of Norman’s interior to those unfamiliar with it.
The beauty of the Seoul takeover lay in that it was a visual feast of all things Burberry under Lee, exuberantly integrated into its local surroundings. The rose motif and the EKD stood out, yes. Yet they felt like artwork that you would typically find at Seongsu-dong.
It certainly helped too that the opening event of Seoul’s Burberry Streets takeover was attended by a curated list of Korean celebrities and creative figures. Fans came in droves, armed with their mobile devices and some professional camera equipment as they readied themselves for appearances by the likes of Lee Dongwook, Lee Jongsuk, Seventeen’s Wonwoo, Burberry ambassadors Bright and Jun Ji-hyun, and of course, Lee himself.
Let’s just say, every photo taken by every single fan that evening would have included their favourite idol dressed in Lee’s Burberry and with the hard-to-miss rose motif in the background. Need we say more?
We now are familiar with Jacob Elordi as the man who's been seen on the streets with a number of luxury "it" bags. From his pretty impressive Bottega Veneta collection—the Cassette and the Andiamo—to Pharrell's newest iteration of the Louis Vuitton Speedy and even a Chanel bag, Elordi has been making a strong case for bags being essentially genderless.
The man undoubtedly has style and plenty of it.
But aside from his penchant for fresh-off-the-runway bags, Elordi has been slowly expanding his acting repertoire since appearing on Netflix rom-com Kissing Booth (and its two sequels). The actor has a couple of projects releasing in theatres this year with his biggest role to date arguably in Priscilla.
Just how big? Elordi plays the incomparable Elvis Presley—only recently portrayed by Austin Butler.
Priscilla is based on Priscilla Presley's 1985 memoir Elvis and Me. Written, directed and produced by Sofia Coppola, the film focuses on Priscilla and her relationship with Elvis up till his death. Based on the trailer and critics' reviews, it looks to be a contender during next year's film award season.
To help Elordi get into character, Valentino crafted two custom looks for the film. While Elvis may be iconic with his onstage persona and style, the film's more autobiographical perspective meant that a more varied representation of Elvis as a whole was needed. Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and Coppola worked together in creating two bespoke looks that truly capture Elvis' insistence on coordinated looks for himself.
The two looks comprise of a three-piece mohair suit in blue as well as a navy camp-collar shirt paired with a pair of black trousers. And inside every piece, a hand-sewn "Valentino for Jacob Elordi" tag highlights the bespoke nature.
Considering that Piccioli is becoming a master at crafting modern menswear while still referencing familiar silhouettes and design tropes, this collaboration exemplifies his capabilities beyond what he's shown on the runway. It's a skill to recreate era-specific fashion while still making them relatable to audiences, and judging by the stills alone, Elordi makes for one stylishly accurate Elvis.
Loïc Prigent, the famous French fashion journalist and documentary maker, is a constant figure at just about every fashion show, capturing moments and people, and narrating every highlight in his unmistakable French-accented voice. He’s now lending his vocals to Louis Vuitton’s debut podcast series Louis Vuitton [Extended] where he brings listeners through various facets of the maison’s universe.
“Art and culture—these two words in their broadest sense are the real things at Louis Vuitton,” Prigent pronounces as an introduction to the podcast’s first episode. The entire premise of Louis Vuitton [Extended] is to serve as a new vehicle for telling the story of the maison—from its expansive repertoire of fashion to the many events held on an international scale. The key elements of the series are interviews with creative minds behind the maison, the likes of creative director of women’s collections Nicolas Ghesquière, master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud and artistic director of watches and jewellery Francesca Amfitheatrof, will appear in upcoming episodes. And with Louis Vuitton known for its many collaborative endeavours across every aspect of its business, you can expect appearances by a host of personalities from artists and designers to athletes and chefs.
Louis Vuitton [Extended] begins with Pharrell Williams, the maison’s newest men’s creative director. In the 26-minute episode, Pharrell and Prigent are joined by Bishop Ezekiel Williams—Pharrell’s uncle, who helms the Voices on Fire choir that provided a soaring end to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear runway show this past June—as they talked about the conceptualisation of the show, creativity and family. The episode is interspersed with moments that Prigent had captured of the show, adding context for listeners who haven’t yet watched it. We are struck by how atmospheric and incredibly intimate it is at the same time.
That Louis Vuitton is venturing into podcast is anything but out of left field. The storied maison takes storytelling seriously. If anyone needs convincing, just take a gander into its incredibly detailed collection notes as well as the many published tomes that cover both in-house stories and travel itineraries.
There is no telling how long the podcast series will go on. But for now, Louis Vuitton [Extended] is scheduled to drop new episodes on a bimonthly basis with each spanning between 20 and 40 minutes.
And quite honestly, who better to host a series on one of the most famous French brands than a characteristically French man?
Louis Vuitton [Extended] is available on all audio streaming platforms.
Storied French luxury house Hermès has always believed in an artisan-first model, where the make of the hand is central to every facet of its business. Artistry is not only played out in its sought-after creations but also in how they’re showcased.
For the house’s latest window display at the Hermès Liat Towers boutique, South Korean artist Hansol Kim was invited to create his own interpretation of the Hermès 2023 theme “Astonishing Hermès!”. The London-based installation artist’s works continuously explore the relationship between humans, clothing and spaces, often deploying used clothing as their foundations. The creation of “Unique, Universal and Unity” afforded Kim to use leathers and fabrics from Hermès. He was then given complete freedom to turn them into the works that now inhabit the windows.
The materials from Hermès have been turned into eclectic patchworks of fantastical beasts and humanoid forms. Inspired by hybridisation and hyper culture—where information is available at dazzling speeds because of a digitally connected society—the installations are puzzling and well, fittingly astonishing. Each creature is unique and embody a different form and spirit altogether. They are designed in such a way that invites the viewer to decipher their make. Kim used a range of items that cross cultures and time periods, incorporating pieces such as 16th-century knee high boots, traditional Korean socks as well as balloon sleeves. And of course, the creatures are seen with Hermès’ very own objects ranging from ready-to-wear to its creations for the home.
As these creatures seemingly make their way through a singular destination (wherever that may be), they traverse a confounding backdrop where the sea, land and sky merge, and through their own unique ways of mobility—some are fitted with wheels, skis, and even kayak paddles. They may be stationary but Kim invites everyone to dream up their very own narrative of an imaginary world.
Or at the very least, be in complete awe at the installations and the level of craftsmanship that went into each character.
“Unique, Universal and Unity” is on display at Hermès Liat Towers until 28 November 2023.
Ahead of the launch of its first-ever skiwear collection, Balenciaga has released a first look into what to expect. With a thorough focus on technical garments using innovative materials for enhanced visibility, insulation, aerodynamism, and protection in snow, the designs are undoubtedly Balenciaga as envisioned by Demna. There are the typical water-repelling treatments on outerwear and accessories as well as in-built ventilation systems. But the Balenciaga skiwear collection also introduces the Alaska Boot—an oversized and stylised version of footwear developed for arctic conditions.
The Balenciaga skiwear collection is scheduled to launch on 15 November 2023.
Doyoung of K-pop group NCT is now officially the global ambassador for Dolce&Gabbana. The announcement comes following his appointment as the brand's first Korea and Japan brand ambassador on 9 May of this year, as well as becoming the face of Dolce&Gabbana's Autumn/Winter 2023 collection for the region.
Talking about stars, Loewe has amped it up with a host of global faces for its Spring/Summer 2024 pre-collection campaign. Familiar faces who have worked with the brand before as well as attended its shows such as global ambassadors Josh O'Connor and Taeyong, are expectedly part of the campaign. It's the appearance of new faces Dakota Fanning, Greta Lee and fan-favourite of the Harry Potter film franchise Dame Maggie Smith. Lensed by Juergen Teller, the campaign features a host of textural contrasts and Loewe's range of new bag styles.
Supreme is at it again with another collaboration. This time around, the latest Stone Island x Supreme collaboration is a street-ready collection of co-branded pieces including down jackets, hoodies and more. Standouts include a reversible down puffer jacket and a wool-blend bouclé cardigan tagged with the Stone Island insignia right on the sleeve.
The Stone Island x Supreme capsule collection is now available at the Stone Island Marina Bay Sands Flagship.
Coming into its third season, the Inter x Moncler formalwear partnership adds a new level to its partnership. Tapping on the design sensibilities of artist Daniel Arsham, comes a limited edition run of light down jackets. The design is reminiscent of a shirt-jacket style that's popular among off-duty Inter players, crafted of course from Moncler's signature down material and bearing the brand signatures of all three collaborators. And because this is a truly exclusive collaborative piece, it is only available at Moncler’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II boutique in Milan.
In Strathisla Distillery's hallowed halls, where time seems to hold its breath, whisky matures into its divine form. Royal Salute, once more, joined forces with the luminary of British fashion, Richard Quinn, for a series that looks pretty enough to wear: the Royal Salute 21 Year Old Richard Quinn Edition II.
For its second consecutive year, Royal Salute expanded its Fashion Collection. Together with Quinn, the limited edition bottles are more than just a whisky; they are testaments to the union of fashion design and expert Scotch whisky blending.
In the historic Strathisla Distillery, where the most precious Royal Salute whiskies are vaunted, Royal Salute Master Blender, Sandy Hyslop, and Quinn embarked on a creative odyssey. Through meticulous testing and artistic development, they birthed a blend that resonates with depth, maturity, and the essence of their growing relationship.
The Royal Salute 21 Year Old Richard Quinn Edition II is a fusion of the finest hand-selected Scotch whiskies. This includes gems from Braeval, Strathisla and Caperdonich. Aged for a minimum of 21 years, this yielded rich fruity notes dancing in harmony with hints of spice and gentle smoky traits.
But this edition isn't only about the palate, it's a visual delight too. Encased in Royal Salute’s iconic flagon, it becomes a canvas for Quinn’s artistic brilliance. Adorned with three striking designs, each is a testament to Quinn’s bold style and love for contrasting patterns. The flagon becomes a work of art in itself. One design features rose petals and white polka dots against a dramatic black backdrop. Another showcases a striking white daisy against a forest-green canvas.
The third is special—it is an exclusive Global Travel Retail that you can find only at airports. This edition bursts forth with vibrant purples, yellows and greens, all set against a pristine white background.
“Crafting outstanding Scotch is an art, a passion and Sandy Hyslop does it with incredible finesse," Quinn said effusively. "Our creative journey at Strathisla Distillery was awe-inspiring. We brought clear visions to the table and seeing these visions collide, merge, and evolve into the finished edition was a thrill. Extending this collaboration was a no-brainer; the idea that our effort will find its way into the hands of craft appreciators worldwide is immensely gratifying.”
The Royal Salute 21 Year Old Richard Quinn Edition II retails for SG$340. They are available at select luxury retailers worldwide; the Floral Edition is only available at the airports.
The Tiffany Lock is quickly becoming Tiffany & Co.’s latest signature, and it’s not difficult to see why. The simplicity of its design echoes its other creations like the Tiffany T and HardWear series, with the ingenuity of a new clasp that functions quite like a padlock. This particular iteration is crafted from white gold and dressed in brilliant diamonds all around to satiate any magpie tendencies.
You may already be familiar with Fendi’s iconic Baguette bag, but how are you with its recently released Baguette pouch? It is made from sheepskin that is constructed to look like a baguette and fitted with a leather strap for crossbody carry. While it is ostensibly conceived for humour, it’s actually quite roomy, so you’ll be able fit in an actual French baguette for a post-workout snack.
A pen isn’t simply a pen when it’s made by Montblanc. It is often a work of art in its own right, owing to craftsmanship developed since 1906. This fountain pen version of the Starwalker SpaceBlue is coated in dark ruthenium and features an intricate line artwork that recalls the Widmanstätten Pattern—the naturally occurring crystalline structure found in iron meteorites.
Prada’s continuous riff on uniformity culminates in a function-first tote bag that’s almost futuristic in concept. The idea may be simple—an included thermos flask is fitted with straps that allow it to sit tight inside—but cleverly distills the essentials of an office professional down to two simple items. And the metallic detailing on the exterior? It's an artful way to incorporate an industrial motif.
Acclaimed fashion designer Haider Ackermann adds his fashion-forward touch to the self-care experience of putting on Augustinus Bader’s moisturising The Rich Cream. The limited edition collaboration sees Ackermann transforming the Nomad vessel into an all-chrome iteration that looks ultra luxurious and modern while allowing the user a moment of narcissistic pleasure.
Bell & Ross’ emblematic Cyber Skull watch gets a full bronze treatment. Set against a black rubber strap, the contrast is stunning, beautifully highlighting the facets on the case and dial. The timepiece is a limited edition run of only 500 pieces, and because the alloy used evolves over time, each watch is destined to be truly unique to its wearer.
Diptyque’s Les Mondes de Diptyque series of refillable candles is a brilliant concept housed within a monolith-like glass sculpture. It’s a departure from the more maximalist designs that we’re used to from the brand—the signature Diptyque typeface appears only on the cap—but the elegant design could very well fit into a wide range of interior aesthetics. And because they’re refillable, you’d get more use out of one too.
Singaporean artist Genevieve Ang makes porcelain sculptures and objects that don’t take on typical, run-of-the-mill shapes. This two-tiered design is a lamp that fits a light bulb right in the middle but hidden from view such that the glow that’s emitted appears to emanate from an organic form. The carefully thought-out design also means that it makes an exquisite piece of art even when it is not lit.
True objets d’art, Cartier’s quartet of Limoges porcelain trinket trays are meant to hold small bits and bobs one would typically have lying around the house. They each are adorned with a Cartier character (including its iconic bellboy) so there’s hardly any fault in leaving them completely bare, topping off a stack of art books or arranged in grid formation as a centrepiece on a coffee table.
We hardly get to say that the sex is in the heel when it comes to men’s footwear, but it may very well be the case with these Saint Laurent patent leather boots. Pay no mind to the height of the heels—they are shaped as chunky blocks for stability and support. Wear them with wide a pair of legged trousers or your favourite suit to—quite literally—elevate the entire look.
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Michelle Kok
Photography Assistants: Justin Neo and Natalie Dykes
Before reading this second part of our deep dive into the Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear trends, read part one.
Forget about the former US President Barack Obama tan suit controversy—it was, quite honestly, no big deal and all partisan political agenda. Sure, the tan suit on a president known for wearing dark navies and blacks was a stark departure from the usual, but did it warrant a huge reaction from everyone from fashion critics to political pundits?
Let that not steer you away from tan suits. When done right (Obama’s was a touch big for his frame), it’s the perfect suiting option that traipses the line between formal and casual. Berluti’s classic fit, for example, is the kind that you’d want to wear with a turtleneck, or even a basic tank as exemplified by Louis Vuitton’s more beige-like option.
Fashion-forward individuals should look to Dior Men’s voluminous version that’s fitted with utilitarian arm warmers done in the same colour and material. and still exudes elegance with the perfectly constructed cut. Kenzo too follows the same thought process with a structured tan suit blazer paired with wide-legged trousers. The former is also cut boxy with lapels that mimic the detail of a traditional yukata.
Not many patterns out there denote the kind of regal elegance that the Prince of Wales check alludes to. Its entire history is rich with ties to royalty.
Just like the tan suit, the Prince of Wales check offers respite from the usual slate of suiting fabrics and colours. Sure, we’re hardly a suit-wearing society any more but why settle for the norm when you feel the need to bust one out?
While Celine’s iteration leaves the flourishes to a minimum, the fit is true to Hedi Slimane with a slim profile and strong shoulders. There’s no denying the rock-and-roll glamour, especially with how it’s styled—a fine example of how versatile the Prince of Wales check can be.
Gucci offers a modern take with transformable details that turn trousers into berms as well as shortened sleeves. In a similar vein of constructed deconstruction, Balenciaga’s Prince of Wales check coat is trimmed with the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection’s leitmotif of trousers as outerwear.
It’s Louis Vuitton that completely turns the pattern on its head. Like haphazard puzzle pieces, the Prince of Wales check has been broken down into separate pieces before reconstructed and left with raw edges intact. It’s manic but quite stunning to look at all the same.
There has been no shortage of fashion collaborations year after year. They’re so widespread now that it’s difficult to cut through the noise and stand out. Hence when a brand that rarely collaborates with another decides to do so, it’s likely to be noteworthy.
Zegna’s last big collaboration was also its first. It was an exceptionally well done effort with Fear of God that saw both brands’ aesthetics melded into one. Its latest collaboration is also with another Los Angeles-based brand, The Elder Statesman.
Unlike the Fear of God collaboration, Zegna x The Elder Statesman is part of Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere—a collection focusing on cashmere that the brand is aiming to be fully traceable by 2024. The entire collection is crafted from Oasis Cashmere but rendered in bold colours and prints that The Elder Statesman is known for. If you’ve been a follower of Zegna, you'll know artistic director Alessandro Sartori tends to favour a more monochromatic palette. This collaboration updates the tailored ease of Zegna with colours that one wouldn’t normally associate with the brand. Yet at the same time, it offers the same level of craftsmanship the brand is known for. And that, ladies and gents, is what a great collaboration is about.
Remember that episode of Friends—aptly named “The One with Joey’s Bag”—where Joey decided that a bag from Bloomingdale’s was befitting of his new style conceived by Rachel? “It is odd how a women's purse looks good on me, a man,” he opined. Alas, that feeling didn’t last all that long as people around him saw the leather tote bag as nothing more than feminine. Oh, the ’90s were such a different time.
Fast forward about 24 years later, the lines have been further blurred on what exactly constitutes a “women’s purse”. The tote bag that Joey sported is the norm by today’s standards. For Autumn/Winter 2023, the man-purse makes a return in shapes that recall the more typically feminine shoulder bag.
The Fendi Baguette bag may have been male-coded since the Autumn/Winter 2019 menswear collection, but its latest iterations stay close to the original. The functionality of this season’s Baguette for men are amped up with additional zipper details, refreshed with an oblong silhouette that remains true to the original. It’s even coupled with a short top handle meant to be worn on the shoulder.
Similar styles can be seen by brands the likes of Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent as well as Tod’s. Versace’s version comes in the form of a camera bag, while Gucci expands its repertoire of man-purses with with a pliable Dionysus messenger bag and a top-handle bamboo creation.
Beyond the stellar storytelling, blockbuster hits such as The Bear, Succession and Christopher Nolan’s latest hit Oppenheimer, help to timestamp where we’re currently at with regard to men’s fashion. And if you’ve yet to delve into their respective worlds (we highly recommend it, by the way) the consensus is that we’re currently obsessed with the basics.
It’s a telling shift when the cut and make of a Merz B Schwanen white tee becomes almost as newsworthy as The Bear’s critically acclaimed storyline. Or how the if-you-know-you-know old money aesthetic in Succession has spawned articles alongside TikTok content breaking down what “quiet luxury” is as a trend. We’re moving away from monograms and in-your-face logos, with an appreciation of the craft behind each piece becoming key.
The Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear collections are driving down on the idea of elevated basics. Though the silhouettes are familiar (and at times, simplified), these new-old forms recall a time when fashion ingenuity was subtle and flourishes were done with intention. But if you think that means there are hardly any fresh ideas, think again.
Burberry’s overhaul begins with Autumn/Winter 2023. Under the stewardship of chief creative officer Daniel Lee (of #newbottega fame), gone are the uncharacteristically dark and punk-ish looks that were favoured by predecessor Riccardo Tisci.
Lee’s intention was to bring Burberry back to its British roots. He even cited familial connections to the brand’s Castleford outpost where its iconic trench coats are manufactured—family members on his mother’s side had worked in factories supplying to Burberry, he says in a Vogue interview.
The immediate change is seen in the emblematic Burberry check that’s not only rendered in bold colours, but also shifted in perspective and appear larger than ever on ready-to-wear. The brand’s Equestrian Knight Design—a crowd-sourced logo as a result of a public competition in 1901—has been revived and refreshed, adding to the collection’s number of Brit-related graphics. An English rose print blooms completely on softened aviator jackets and workwear-inspired pieces, while mallards appear as a repeated motif seemingly to break away from the relatively serious palette of the collection.
What about the Burberry trench coats? They continue to live on of course, but Lee’s versions are cut oversized and supplemented with faux fur lapels. And if remotely possible, they look more luxurious in this new interpretation.
It makes sense given that we’re approaching the season when temperatures dip—at least for countries farther up north of the equator—the menswear collections are rife with pieces meant to keep us warm. Instead of piling on outerwear, how about opting for pieces that have been lengthened?
First up is Bottega Veneta where creative director Matthieu Blazy plays plenty with proportions and trompe l’œil effects. A striped shirt is cut decidedly oversized with the hem reaching mid-calf, but what’s even more impressive is the fact that it’s not made of cotton. The shirt is actually leather that’s been fashioned to appear like a cotton shirt, which also means that it’ll keep one a whole lot warmer. There’s also a jumper in a separate look that reaches all the way to the ankles, complete with ribbed hem.
If you’re up for a more distressed option to Bottega Veneta’s long jumper, Coach’s striped iteration features an intarsia Superman motif that’s further enhanced by an overall destroyed aesthetic. Sure, this probably wouldn’t keep you warm but does it really matter when it’s supposed to be a standout piece?
For something more put together, Prada’s suede tunics are in line with its constant exploration of uniforms. They’re minimally designed with a flap breast pocket trimmed with a beautiful patina. Like most Prada designs, they can be cuttingly clinical but if minimalism is your thing, this will be one to cherish.
Is the tie truly dead? Not if Valentino has anything to say about it. The Italian fashion house conceptualised an entire collection dedicated to the black tie and named it, well, “Black Tie”. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli shifts the attention of black tie as part of formal dress to that of a style staple that works for just about any setting.
There’s nary a single formal suit look throughout the entire collection. When suits were employed together with a slim tie—an element that’s visible on each and every look—they’re hardly traditional black tie-ready. Instead, suit blazers are paired with short shorts and Rockstud Chelsea boots for outfits that certainly wouldn’t fly in a traditional black tie setting.
From an artfully tailored boiler suit matched with a bold red shirt, to a voluminous pea coat worn over a pastel green shirt in the same tone as a pair of creepers, each look makes a strong case for the tie as simply another accessory to consider—and without the stuffy undertone that it’s been associated with.
Taking the co-opting of women-centric fashion a step further, we’re seeing an increasingly intentional softness to the menswear collections this season. The designs are undoubtedly more fluid à la Zegna and Dior Men where constructions of tailoring have softened over the years. But what’s more apparent for Autumn/Winter 2023 is the influence of womenswear.
Dolce&Gabbana for example, included corsetry for a number of its menswear looks. They’re styled over silk shirts in tone-on-tone monochromatic colours, accentuating the waist. In some ways, they do resemble cummerbunds albeit taking more significant real estate on the body.
But what’s more severe in execution is Fendi’s slew of one-shouldered tops. If creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection saw her cropping tops and blazers, the current collection has her slashing diagonally to create toga-inspired knit tops and shirting that expose skin. Alexander McQueen’s tailoring-heavy collection also features flashes of skin through careful deconstruction. In one look, a suit blazer is slashed into half with the bottom-half kept buttoned to instantly create a fit-and-flare silhouette; in another, the back panel of a blazer is cut up and replaced with floral embroidery for maximum visual impact.
At Saint Laurent—easily one of the highlights of the season—the lines between the House’s menswear and womenswear are blurred. While the latter have always been informed by menswear, this time around, Saint Laurent’s menswear tap on the exceptional fluidity of the women’s universe. The proportions are lengthened and exaggerated with massive bow details, beautiful draping as well as hooded creations that are borrowed from previous womenswear collections. Clothes are clothes are clothes, after all.
The cardigan was an intrinsic part of Mister Rogers of Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood fame, whose zipped, cable-knit variations became a ritualistic introduction to each episode. The transition from blazer to cardigan signalled a dressing down that immediately brings viewers closer, almost to a more intimate level of comfort. Then there’s Kurt Cobain’s penchant for cardigans. They’re worn over graphic tees and patterned shirts, and are a reflection of grunge’s anti-establishment sensibilities.
The contrast between the two is stark and exemplifies the versatility of the cardigan beyond functionality. We hardly consider wearing cardigans, but that’s about to change this season as luxury fashion brands offer options that are hard to ignore.
Dior Men’s pearl-embroidered iteration is one you’d easily want to pair with tailored separates, while Zegna’s minimalist cardigans designed with hidden buttons and crafted thin are perfect for all-year layering.
When they’re made plush and with considerable weight such as the ones by Ferragamo and Loewe (beautifully crafted with drop shoulders), treat the cardigan as a knit shirt by wearing one on its own. Or like Celine’s devil-may-care attitude, an embellished cardigan paired with quintessential rocker accessories will also be the way to embrace the humble knitwear once again, and in your own stylistic leanings.
He's a musician, an all-round performer, and a member of K-pop group GOT7—Mark Tuan is an entertainment force in his own right. But aside from his musicianship, the man has got style in spades, especially when paired with Saint Laurent. The two have developed a close relationship over the years with Tuan becoming a fixture on the front row of the Saint Laurent runway shows.
So who better to bring us to the most recent Saint Laurent Summer 2024 womenswear show by Anthony Vaccarello than Tuan himself? Follow along his journey to the show as he recalls his fondest moment with the fashion house as well as the thought process behind his choice of outfit for the show.
What goes through your mind when you’re getting ready for an average day in your life?
I approach each day with an open mindset, ready to adapt to whatever challenges or opportunities may arise. I don't stick rigidly to a fixed routine because I believe in spontaneity. So while I do have a general plan for the day, I'm always open to adjusting it if something unexpected and exciting comes my way. This approach allows me to stay flexible, embrace change, and make the most of every moment.
Why did you decide to go with this outfit for the Summer 2024 women’s show?
I decided to go with this outfit for the Summer 2024 women's show because it was an elegant look, and I simply connected with it. The design and style of the outfit resonated with my personal taste and aesthetic preferences. Fashion is not just about wearing clothes; it's also about expressing oneself and feeling a connection with what you wear. This particular ensemble not only exuded elegance but also made me feel confident and in tune with the theme of the show. It was a choice driven by both aesthetics and a personal sense of harmony with the attire.
You’re no stranger to being on the front row of fashion shows. What do you look out for when viewing a collection?
When I'm on the front row of fashion shows, there are two key elements I particularly look out for when viewing a collection: colour palettes and silhouettes. These two aspects play a crucial role in shaping the overall aesthetic and mood of a fashion collection.
You’ve also been to a number of Saint Laurent runway shows now. Is there a particular show or moment that still sticks to this day?
The Saint Laurent runway shows have consistently delivered memorable moments, but if I were to choose one that still sticks with me to this day, it would undoubtedly be the first show I attended. What made the experience truly unforgettable was the unexpected and breathtaking setting. I didn't expect to be sitting with the Eiffel Tower as the backdrop, so when the walls came down to reveal that iconic Parisian landmark, it was absolutely stunning.
If you could choose a song from your discography to be the track for a runway show, which would it be?
As of right now, I don't feel like any of my songs are suitable for a runway show, but perhaps in the future, I'll create music that perfectly complements the runway experience. Music plays a vital role in setting the mood and enhancing the overall atmosphere of a fashion show, and I would want to ensure that the song chosen aligns seamlessly with the designer's vision and the collection's theme. While my current discography may not have the right fit, I'm open to exploring and collaborating to create music that adds a distinctive and captivating element to future runway shows.
If I had to pick a clear standout from Milan for the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear season (with a smattering of menswear in between), it would have to go to Bottega Veneta.
Creative director Matthieu Blazy has managed to create such a niche look for the Italian brand in terms of its ready-to-wear offerings—without the need for overt branding or the use of a singular colour—more than any of his predecessors have done before. The bags and accessories, of course, continue to utilise Bottega Veneta's signature Intrecciato techniques (as they should) but Blazy's emphasis on craft and techniques has offered a distinct point-of-view that has made his ready-to-wear pieces identifiable as Bottega Veneta creations.
"There is a need to reconnect to a primal world of animals, minerals, and plants. It’s like collecting seashells—beautiful, meaningful or meaningless. It’s linked to the beauty of small marvels and natural wonders. It’s embracing something freeform: these are clothes without codes," Blazy says in the collection notes.
For the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection, Blazy once again took us on a journey—one that crossed oceans and continents. Craft was the central connecting thread as culture-specific influences the world over were referenced and mashed together to create pieces that were (mostly) wearable and imbued with extreme technicalities. Yes, this meant that visually, the collection may not have appeared cohesive due to the many different techniques, colours and silhouettes that were employed throughout. The cohesiveness came through conceptually with summer- and beach-inspired ideas of craft apparent in a number of looks.
The fit: There's no singular look to the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection. It was a transition of different moments in time and space—as though Blazy meant to showcase the Bottega Veneta man as one who's worldly and of many different leanings. The show opened with a knit swimwear look that looked as though it was stripped from the '20s (and perhaps one of the few menswear looks that felt wearable for the warmer climes). Although it's difficult to decipher accurately based on images and the runway video alone, I'm fairly certain that Blazy showed a number of his brilliant leather trompe l'œil looks where seemingly everyday pieces were actually crafted from leathers, and paired with leather ties.
What's technically impressive were the knit looks this season. Blazy had shown off a number of knit looks in the past few collections but they seemed to be amped up for Summer 2024 with even more flourishes and done in greater scale. Chunky jumpers and tanks were beautiful, crafted to perfection in complicated patterns but without a homespun quality. These were intended to look high-quality and luxurious—done by hand, yes, but with the precision of skilled, experienced craftsmen.
The details: Things got bigger in the bags department. The Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 bags were supersized such that they'd make pretty decent travelling companions. A massive duffle bag in croc (look 7) was half the size of the model that carried it, while the Sardines in Intrecciato took on their biggest iteration yet with the metallic handle offering an even better grip thanks to the upsized design.
Three exceptional looks: Look 11 and its deliciously chunky knit that enveloped almost the entirety of the ensemble under it; look 53's coordinated look consisting of a shirt and trousers with faggoting and jagged hems; and look 41's updated proposal of a tank-and-trouser fit.
The takeaway: I don't know who's rich enough to purchase Bottega Veneta ready-to-wear, but you'd definitely recognise the look right off the bat.
View the full Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
