The fit: Elegance was the assignment at Dolce&Gabbana. One of the opening looks was a full black ensemble consisting of a high-neck-collared blouse cut oversized and paired with slim trousers. It was a fine example of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection title: Sleek.
While “sleek” could mean a simplification and the stripping off of excess and unnecessary flourishes, Dolce&Gabbana opted for refinement and elegance.
Sleekness was apparent across the entire collection with black taking prominence. But like most designers, black was the foundation where textural play and tasteful embellishments helped to further refine the looks. Even in a number of the opening looks, black sheens and shines differentiated the components of each outfit, whether they’re subtly done or not.
There was also no stopping the brand from executing exaggerated forms and show-stopping looks. A plush fur coat, for example, wouldn’t necessarily be thought of as “sleek” (although I’m sure the feel of it would be absolutely divine) but again, sleek in the sense that it’s a restrained Dolce&Gabbana where the focus of that particular piece was the grandeur of it with no added details. And trust me, the brand knows how to go over-the-top.
The details: Like many of the brands that have shown a this far, Autumn/Winter 2024 is set to be one where sparkle and shine reign supreme. At Dolce&Gabbana, they’re done sparingly with a standout look included a blazer completely riddled with rhinestones worn over a scoop-neck tank done in the exact same way—sleek. On the tailoring front, suits were cut with slightly cropped blazers (at times with tailcoats) reminiscent of what a conductor would wear, worn with pussy bows blouses (a Dolce&Gabbana classic). Prints and lace too were incorporated in a number of looks—styled either as a quiet statement or paired with pieces of the same make such that the entire look is rather homogenous.
Three exceptional looks: Look 19's super clean and minimal take on a biker jacket that still retains an element of cool; the peacoat in look 34 cut at just the right length and beautifully paired with riding boots; and look 53's take on formal eveningwear—one I'd wear right now.
The takeaway: Even Dolce&Gabbana is adhering to a quieter (I mean, sleeker) fashion movement. But how long will the brand stick to it?
View the full Dolce&Gabbana Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Something’s happening with Silvia Venturini Fendi. The artistic director has become quite a rebel of late—a perfectly good thing, in my opinion. What first started as a shocking Spring/Summer 2022 collection that involved severely cropped blazers and tops with waist chains, has continued on with other deviations from traditional menswear.
For Autumn/Winter 2024, Silvia once again subverted menswear codes by incorporating nuances of typically womenswear tropes. What I initially thought was a pencil skirt (the collection’s standout piece made its appearance in the very first look) was actually a pair of berms cut to resemble on—an incredibly low crotch joined inches above the hem. The flow of these skirt-berms—inspired by the spirit of the Scottish kilt—too were deceptive enough to warrant that initial impression.
In a further defiant move, Silvia paired these hybrids with fine gauge knits before layering over coats made for the outdoors. At some glances, the looks appeared somewhat granny-like and eccentric but somehow, cool all the same as Silvia merged the outdoors with the more refined pieces underneath them.
But of course, there were plenty of looks that didn't make use of the hybrids and they weren't lacking any fashion-forward fervour. Tank tops were layered over polos, cardigans were fastened with a single brooch, and tops designed with extended hems.
The details: Pillow-like bags were crafted from quilted leather or shearling, adding to the tactile comfort that they exuded. The Peekaboo and Baguette bags were mainstays; this time they were interpreted with shearling and in some cases, appeared to be slashed to reveal a hidden pop of colour (they're a collaboration with MAD Architects' Ma Yansong). But perhaps, the most talked about accessory at the Fendi Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was the collaboration with Devialet. The handheld portable speaker was already teased moments before the show as Italian rapper Lazza got out of his vehicle with one and a song was played. Let's just say, the sound quality and volume were pretty impressive and something that could be held on your palm.
Three exceptional looks: The simplicity of look 5 with its fitted polo and cardigan in deeply rich autumnal colours; look 39's somewhat collegiate look but elevated with a delicious blue coat; and the closing look consisting of a metallic yarn polo worn with pleated kilt hybrid.
The takeaway: Too afraid to wear a skirt in public? Start with a Fendi skirt-berms hybrid.
View the full Fendi Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The collaboration continues with Prada as co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are set to present their seventh menswear collection together. And after revealing a pretty star-studded Spring/Summer 2024 campaign too.
As with every Prada runway show, clues to what the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection could look like is vague at best. The physical invite to the show—a rather massive one at that—is a folio pictured with a natural landscape and contains a single Prada tie. Tagged to it is a card that says that the tie's authentication certificate has been uploaded on the Aura Blockchain Consortium platform—founded by Prada together with LVMH and Cartier in 2021. Further teasers include similar portrayals of natural landscapes splashed on desktop screens in an office setting.
Perhaps, what we'll be witnessing is an evolution of officewear codes (Prada does have a thing for uniforms) imbued with semblances of digital applications. The staging for Spring/Summer 2024 included slime; could this season's showspace see digital renderings of nature in surreal ways?
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week.
What: Prada Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Sunday, 14 January at 9pm Singapore time
A lot was riding on the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection. For one, it's the first menswear collection by creative director Sabato De Sarno; the other reason is that it's a follow-up to a debut that had fashion insiders and fans split. In some cases, the latest effort by De Sarno was similar to his debut, but better—much, much better.
Gucci Ancora took on a slightly different meaning as compared to De Sarno's debut. While the overarching theme of wanting to make people fall in love with Gucci again was apparent, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection takes it a step further. Embedded into the line-up—starting from the opening look—were a number of ensembles that mirrored the womenswear debut. They're tweaked slightly, but the spirit was essentially the same. Heck, even the Mark Ronson-curated soundtrack (the man was also in attendance) was an intentional repeat.
The difference—and brilliantly so—was that the menswear collection felt more complete. There's no telling how De Sarno felt post-debut of his very first collection, but if any of the naysayers got to him, this collection felt like he was hell bent on proving them wrong.
The fit: Perhaps, De Sarno is a better menswear designer than he is at womenswear. Because the tailoring (a perennial key tenet of any menswear collection, pretty much) was impeccable. Instead of opting for the easy way out by pandering to current style obsessions, the cut of trousers were slim with enough give for a sleek and clean bottom half. The top was left slightly oversized, but proportionally just right such that the flow and fluidity of floor-grazing coats felt dramatic without weighing one down.
Tailoring may have run rampant throughout the collection, but they were anything but staid or stuffy. Print and patterns seem to not be something that De Sarno may be leaning towards—save for the GG monogram—but colours are clearly his specialty (perhaps something that he picked up during his time at Valentino). Surprisingly, the deep shade of red that's becoming a De Sarno signature for Gucci, was not heavily used throughout the collection. Instead, the additional colours employed ran along the same tonal shades as the new Gucci red. This not only added on to the cohesive nature of the collection, but also elevated it to be rather universal across different ages.
That's not to say that there were no statement pieces; in fact, far from it. In place of ties, a necklace-scarf hybrid was the centre of attention consisting of leather pieces connected by metallic hardware with the former attached to a slender strip of fabric. Each swayed as models walked—a sense of romantic flou that was both refreshing and much needed. And if Harry Styles or Måneskin were to return as part of the Gucci fold, they'd certainly gravitate towards the metallic fringed pieces that exuded the kind of gender-fluid sensibility Gucci had made its own.
The details: As predicted, the Jackie continues to be the focus for the House. Rendered in plenty of iterations—albeit kept a tad simpler and less showy than the female versions—including a thoroughly embellished version, the menswear Jackies were constructed significantly larger.
But what wasn't easily seen on the livestream, were the backs of the looks. De Sarno skilfully ensured that the backs of most, if not all, the looks were crafted as beautifully as the front. Some coats featured a hint of the Gucci webbing right on the vent, while leather coats were embossed with "Gucci" right at centre back along the hem. The drapes and silhouettes too felt devastatingly dramatic from the back—of mystique that you'd want a person wearing a piece to walk by again.
Three exceptional looks: Look 5's ultra clean combination of a long sleeveless coat paired with the collection's trousers as well as studded Horsebit loafers; look 13's all-over GG monogram in red; and look 51's sparkly oversized tank that I would very much like to cop immediately.
The takeaway: Don't strike off De Sarno's Gucci just yet.
View the full Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show season has already begun. After Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan Fashion Week Men's will officially kick off with Gucci, marking the menswear debut of creative director Sabato De Sarno. And once again, for the second time, the show is being referred to as Gucci Ancora ("again" in Italian).
The Gucci Ancora women's campaign was just released days ago featuring the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection that signalled De Sarno's vision for the House. Included as part of the campaign were a couple of images of male models in denim jeans, holding on to Gucci Jackie bags. While the official press release explicitly avoided referencing the male models, it's safe to assume that Gucci's Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection will be a continuation of the Gucci Ancora aesthetic—pared back with a reiteration of Gucci elegance in the form of cut and silhouette.
The womenswear debut focused heavily on the Jackie as the bag of the season. The menswear debut could follow along the same vein or continue to refocus the attention on the Horsebit creations—an icon that was the House's key push leading up to the release of De Sarno's first collection.
But for any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week.
What: Gucci Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Friday, 12 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time
And just like that, the Christmas decorations have gone down and we're on our way to celebrate a new Lunar Year. It's a rather special one too—the Year of the Dragon is arguably the most celebrated of the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac. It may not have topped the mythological race that determined the order of the Lunar Calendar (that honour goes to the Rat, for the uninitiated) but the Dragon's powerful stature and connotations confer it the most favoured Zodiac.
It's a given then that the Year of the Dragon capsule collections this year have been amped up in line with the Dragon's popularity as well as its sought-after traits of power, nobility, success, and luck.
We can't guarantee that your year will be for the better wearing even just one of these new threads. But at the very least, you're taking some ownership of it and that's something even the most skeptic of persons could get behind.
Kenzo's capsule collection features motifs that you're already familiar with from the brand. The Kenzo tiger remains a key insignia that's apparent in the collection's ready-to-wear range, with a dragon motif making its appearance. On Kenzo bombers, souvenir jackets, hoodies and more, the dragon takes a figure-eight formation, while a more stylised interpretation is fitted onto back pockets of denims and a slew of lightweight jerseys and tracksuits.
The Kenzo Lunar New Year capsule is now available in Kenzo boutiques.
Newly crowned Bottega Veneta brand ambassador Shu Qi stars in The First Sunrise with You, a campaign short by director Jess Jing Zou. The film depicts scenes of Shu Qi and a host of other individuals—friends, romantic partners, and families—venturing out and watching the sun rise in anticipation of a new year. Accompanying them are a number of pieces specially crafted to the Year of the Dragon. The Orbit sneakers are rendered in new colours (including a rather soothing orange), a dragon motif is interwoven as part if the House's Intrecciato technique on a tote, and the beloved Jodie is trimmed with a handle inspired by a dragon's tail.
Dior Men's version of the Dragon is perhaps the most adorable of the lot. In collaboration with Japanese artist Otani Workshop, Tanilla the green monster is the central character that's featured in a myriad of ways throughout the capsule collection. The dragon-like creature is prominent on a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including on the Dior Oblique in Lunar New Year appropriate burgundy and pink hues. Splashes of red run rampant throughout too—both as a nod to one of Monsieur Dior's favourite colours as well as the festivities.
The Dior & Otani Workshop capsule collection is now available in Dior Men boutiques and on dior.com.
Emporio Armani taps on its global ambassador Jackson Yee to be the face of its Year of the Dragon collection. The colour palette of the collection is kept relatively simple and wearable with black and red. The Emporio Armani logo is then paired with an embroidered dragon motif—both done largely in gold—to pile on the symbols of prosperity and fortune. Opt for just one single piece from the collection and you're good to go.
Like many others in this edit, Polo Ralph Lauren's latest Lunar New Year collection sees its very own interpretation of the dragon. The brand takes a more traditional slant with a multicoloured version placed front and centre on clasic Polo Ralph Lauren staples. But what the brand captured exceptionally well is the shade of red—a tasteful hue that's not too bright and not too muted. It's beautifully executed on a reworked Oxford shirt decorated with frog fastenings, and even a classic jumper.
The Polo Ralph Lauren Lunar New Year collection is now available in stores and online.
Trust Loewe to commission master craftsmen as part of its Lunar New Year capsule collection. Simply referred to as the Jade collection, master jade carvers Xiaojin Yin, Qijing Qiu, and Lei Cheng each created a series of five limited edition pendants mounted onto gold chains. In addition to the limited edition pieces, Loewe expands its Flamenco series with the Purse Mini bags in colours inspired by antique jade carvings, with each bag containing an attached ring of jade in its corresponding colour on the inside. Charms and key chains are also part of the mix—each combined with signature Loewe motifs.
The Loewe Jade collection is now available in boutiques and online.
MCM and BAPE® return for another capsule collection. This time, the BAPE® logo is entwined with a dragon and is featured on every piece in the collection, including a Visetos-decorated Shark hoodie. MCM's signature silhouettes the likes of its Backpack, Belt Bag, Crossbody, Boston and more, have been transformed even further with the inclusion of a transparent version of BAPE®'s camouflage pattern. This is definitely not a collection for anyone with minimalist leanings.
The MCM and BAPE® collaboration is now available in select MCM and BAPE® stores.
Burberry does things the Burberry way. Building on British wardrobe archetypes and Burberry signatures, its Lunar New Year collection refreshes classic checks and house motifs in vibrant hues of red. The seasonal rose motif is also seen in full bloom, perfectly matching new eyewear styles. And if you need a reference of how to pull off the collection's patterns, you'd only need to look to brand ambassador Chen Kun for inspiration.
The Burberry Lunar New Year collection is now available in boutiques and online.
The Moncler logo has been reimagined specifically for its latest Lunar New Year collection. The outline has been replaced with the head of a dragon. Three looks for men have been created for the collection, with quilting designed to resemble the scales of a dragon and body armour. So if you've already made plans for the last remnants of snow on the slopes or just a winter holiday over Lunar New Year, there's no better collection than this.
The Moncler Year of the Dragon collection is now available in select Moncler boutiques.
The OG dragon of the Pokémon series, Dragonite, together with its pre-evolutions take centrestage in a three-way collaboration with Fendi, Hiroshi Fujiwara's Fragment, and Pokémon. The collaboration goes as simple as a tee and hoodie printed with the charismatic dragon Pokémon to leather marquetry of Dratini and Dragonite on Mini Baguette and Baguette bags respectively. Galvanised brass jewellery combines the FF logo with Pokémon signatures such as a Poké Ball (that opens up to reveal the FF logo) as well as Dratini and Dragonair.
The Fendi x FRGMT x Pokémon collection is now available in select Fendi boutiques and online.
Considering that Hedi Slimane is constantly inspired by music and uses it as a way of crafting the narrative of each collection—his runway shows for Celine often involves commissioned music pieces—Celine-branded audio accessories ought to be a given. It has been almost six years since he's assumed the position of the luxury brand's creative, artistic and image director, and we're finally getting just that.
The first Celine wireless headphones made their debut on the brand's Summer 2024 womenswear runway. To the tune of a specially commissioned extended version of "Too Much Love" by LCD Soundsystem, the all-black headphones were seen around the necks of a number of models—styled as an accessory to complete a look more than anything. But thankfully, they're capable of more than making one look a tad cool.
Celine has partnered up with Master & Dynamic for its first foray into the audio space. If you're already familiar with Master & Dynamic, you'd know that the audio brand is universally known for its make, rich audio quality, and signature design. Celine's variation is an aesthetic update of the MH40 model identifiable by its lightweight anodised aluminium body. Both the headband and removable ear pads are crafted from supple lambskin, with the capabilities of the MH40—Bluetooth 5.2 connectivity, noise isolation, and up to 30 hours of battery life—ensuring that the audio experience is as luxe as it gets.
While its runway debut only showcased the all-black iteration, the Celine headphones come in three colourways: the aforementioned all-black, black and silver, and tan and silver. The black-and-silver iteration features "Celine" right on the exterior of each speaker; the all-black as well as the tan-and-silver colourways are decorated with the Celine Triomphe motif at the same spots. The partnership goes as far as adding more subtle details such as "Celine Paris" laser-engraved on the included charging cables, and "Designed and developed in Paris" marked on the right headphone.
The retail price? Well, it is a collaborative effort and branded with the signatures of a luxury fashion house so SGD1,350 isn't exactly out of left field. At the very least, it does more than say, a white shirt by Celine that also retails for around the same price.
The Celine wireless headphones will be available in boutiques and online soon.
If you're already feeling the blues about being officially back to work after a weekend of some intense New Year-partying (the hangover doesn't get any easier, does it?), RIMOWA is turning those emotions into something more pleasant. That's right, a few days in to 2024 and we're already getting a new colour for the RIMOWA Essential series.
Like the many other colours prior, Sea Blue takes inspiration from the myriad of destinations that a RIMOWA luggage could potentially bring one to. While the rest may have been more specific in their points of reference, Sea Blue takes a more generic approach but one that just about anyone can appreciate. The regenerative influence of the sea—pretty appropriate given the new year—inspired the soft, pastel-hued Sea Blue that's still richly saturated yet calming at the same time. It's best captured in the series of shorts lensed by Francesco Nazardo. Set against the interiors and poolside of a 1950s home located in the outskirts of Barcelona, the Sea Blue series is beautifully highlighted as a soothing accessory.
If you're already familiar with RIMOWA's Essential series, its interior remains dependable as ever albeit slightly reworked. What used to be two separate compartments divided by the brand's adjustable Flex Divider, one side is now equipped with fully zipped lining designed for more secure storage. The main compartment (where the telescopic handles are housed) is separated by the Flex Divider that's also fitted with a zipped compartment enough for small loose items.
Aside from the main trio of the Essential collection—Cabin, Check-In L, and Trunk Plus—Sea Blue is also available in a range of travel accompaniments. A toiletry pouch and packing cubes in three different sizes complete the offering meant to help make organisation a breeze.
Question now is: Where's the destination?
The RIMOWA Essential collection in Sea Blue will be available in boutiques and online from 4 January 2024.
There are a number of things that male Korean celebrities and idols have in common. The chiselled jawline, the perfect nose bridge, seemingly poreless, porcelain skin, and disarming boyishness. To complete the package, they also tend to be devoid of facial hair, save for perfectly shaped eyebrows.
It’s not enough that these examples of contemporary male beauty possess the visual exuberance of a 21-year-old in his physical prime, they also have underarms so smooth and clear that they can be likened to vanilla ice cream. I mean, one can’t help but notice this when male members of K-pop groups opt to wear sleeveless outfits during their energetic dance performances.
Now, I’m not saying that I’m affected by these rather impossible standards—not only are those underarms hairless, they also look unbelievably smooth—I am however a fan of keeping things clean and groomed. And having hairless underarms does have its benefits. For one, it reduces the chance for the accumulation of bacteria. Hairy pits give bacteria something more to cling on to and thrive in, and subsequently cause that after-workout funk, or that end-of-day earthiness simply by living in a humid climate.
Hair has a tendency to retain moisture, which means hairy pits also often translate to visible wet underarm patches. And while sweating is normal and healthy, having perspiration seep through clothing isn’t exactly a good look. Depending on whether you’re for deodorants and antiperspirants (typically aluminium-based to temporarily block sweat pores) or their more natural alternatives, a hairless underarm also provides a smoother canvas that increases their efficiency.
I’ll have to confess that I am mildly obsessed with hair removal. After all, I have tried pretty much every at-home solution. Like most guys, I started out with the standard shaving routine. It’s fast and idiot-proof; I typically had zero issue or experienced any nick from using a Gillette razor. But the downside to shaving is the potential for ingrown hair. The constant scraping action of shaving can also lead to minor cuts to the skin and exacerbate hyperpigmentation, making skin appear darker—definitely not K-pop-star-approved.
Forget about hair-removing creams. My experience with them has never been positive. They either didn’t work as advertised or weren’t as effective as the razor. Then, there was the one time I decided to try out an at-home waxing kit in preparation for a marathon run. In the interest of reducing abrasion to the skin during the long-distance run (it happens around the underarm area too, especially after a bumpy shave), I laid out the components in the kit and read the instructions carefully before proceeding. Let’s just say I’m glad I didn’t begin the experiment with a DIY-Boyzilian (the male variant of a Brazilian that involves removing hair from the front and back of the pubic region), because not only did I suffer from post-marathon abrasion, some skin was ripped off in the process.
“There’s almost ZERO downtime with waxing. I can (and I do) use my lunchtime on a work day to go to a waxing salon near the office, spend about an hour for a BOYZILIAN and underarm hair removal, and then head back to my desk without anyone knowing I just had my FOLLICLES STRIPPED OFF of me.”
As effective as self-waxing strips are, the quality of the pre-attached wax is nowhere near what professional salons use. And they’re messy and hard to manoeuvre on yourself—the strips need to be at the absolutely perfect angle to work. The risk of getting it wrong—clearly, in my case—is pretty high.
Professional waxing is probably the best temporary hair removal technique out there. There’s still some degree of pain involved unfortunately, but results typically last for a couple of weeks. After repeated visits, regrowth is generally slower and you may only need to go just once a month.
There’s almost zero downtime with waxing. I can (and I do) use my lunchtime on a work day to head to a waxing salon near the office, spend about an hour for a Boyzilian and underarm hair removal, and then head back to my desk without anyone knowing I just had follicles stripped off of me. All one has to avoid for the next couple of hours are exercising and showering with hot water, or anything else that could irritate the open pores of a waxed area.
While the usual waxing salon I frequent isn’t too shabby with its private rooms and sterile environment, a visit to STRIP’s Ion Orchard outlet proved to be a luxurious experience. There’s nothing clinical about its deep coloured walls and interior furnishings as well as the plush bed in the middle that all together resembles more of a private boudoir than a salon.
Homegrown brand STRIP has been at it for 21 years now and has expanded to eight other cities in the region. As part of its 21st-anniversary celebrations, a special STRIP Birthday Wax had been formulated especially for Boyzilian procedures. And like its name suggests, the wax smells like how a vanilla birthday cake would, which in hindsight, is perhaps not the kind of visuals one would want while getting hair removed from sensitive areas. But it smelt delicious and one can hardly complain to that.
“Do you see more guys getting waxed nowadays,” I asked my Waxpert (STRIP’s term for its wax specialists), ignoring my cardinal rule of never making conversation with the person you’re exposing your groin and crack to at the salon, all in the interest of journalism.
“Yes, of course!” she answered without skipping a beat, before asking me to take a deep breath and proceeding to yank a strip off. Surprisingly, the pain was minimal.
The pain element is inevitable—you’re essentially removing hair follicles right at the root. But experienced and well-trained specialists make quick work of it, which helps in reducing the pain whether it’s underarm hair removal or the more sensitive Boyzilian. Anything around the scrotum though, is bound to be the most painful owed to the fact that the skin is thin in that area. You might jerk from the swift motion or even yelp, but they’re all most definitely normal reactions that you don’t have to be embarrassed about. These wax specialists have probably seen it all.
You might be wondering at this point, why bother going through the pain? Especially when intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment is a pain-free option and lasts far longer. With IPL treatment, however, multiple sessions are required with results typically more visible after at least four sessions. Conversely, waxing is immediate, especially if you’re pressed for time and are not willing to wait for four months for smooth, hairless skin.
At the end of the day, it boils down to one’s personal choice, and I don’t just mean waxing versus IPL treatments.
Hair removal isn’t a necessity; it’s a preference. Having hairy pits doesn’t equate to being hyper-masculine nor does the lack of it means one is any less. For me, it’s not even about adhering to a new standard of male beauty; it’s about feeling more hygienic and knowing that I’m not the cause of a lone hair sticking on the rim of a urinal. Having said that, for the love of mankind, at least trim those bushes, bro.
When the Horsebit loafer was first conceived by Gucci—specifically by Aldo Gucci, the eldest son of founder Guccio Gucci—it was said to be a response to loafers popularised by preppy Americans. Gucci was to open its first New York City boutique in 1953. The Horsebit loafer was the perfect design to kickstart an American expansion. It was a familiar silhouette with the addition of an Italian flair—very Gucci.
The use of the snaffle bit within Gucci predates the Horsebit loafer. The House had already incorporated it since the 1950s when it began drawing inspiration from the equestrian world. The metallic double ring connected by a bar was taken from the bit on a horse’s bridle, and was used across different facets of the Gucci universe both as a decorative motif as well as a functional element.
One could even say that the creation of the Horsebit loafer was destined to happen. But its arrival at a time when dress codes were changing in favour of more liberal sensibilities, helped propel its popularity. Not only was the Horsebit loafer instantly recognisable, its make and comfort was a mark of Italian craftsmanship. The leather used is supple, and coupled with a construction that lacks an insole, makes the Horsebit loafer lightweight and flexible. One could easily run around in a pair and get it beaten down. Or like Tyler Durden in Fight Club, fight in one.
Gucci has seen numerous creative directors over the decades since, but the Horsebit loafers have been a mainstay. Various interpretations have been brought to the fore recently and will most likely continue to do so under the creative directorship of Sabato De Sarno. Yet, 70 years hasn’t changed the way the Horsebit loafers are crafted. To this day, they’re still produced in Italy, in house, by skilled cobblers. The soles of the Horsebit loafers are also still attached to the uppers with Blake stitching that affords the shoes’ their renowned lightweight and flexible attributes.
The GG monogram and green-red-green webbing may be synonymous with Gucci. But when it comes to a singular design, the Horsebit loafer is one that doesn’t need to be loud to be noticed.
Dwyane Wade—the NBA luminary with 13 All-Star appearances and three championship victories knows about baller pieces. He was recently spotted in Miami, donning Aequa & Co.'s Thick Curb Chain, which paired well with his refined, silky floral prints for a relaxed and confident vibe. A relative newcomer in the world of Aequa & Co. caught the eye of Wade, as well as the attention of the fine jewellery world.
In the midst of age-old luxury establishments, Aequa & Co. is a breath of fresh air. As an avant-garde trailblazer, it broke barriers to introduce a more inclusive era in men's fine jewellery. Departing from the conventional, Aequa & Co.'s artisans (who hailed from esteemed maisons like Cartier and BVLGARI) are pioneering a daring renaissance. Mixing each creation with raw innovation and artistic freedom, you get an exhilarating departure from the safe confines of traditional labels. It's a contemporary collection resonating with potency, adaptability and genuine opulence.
Crafted exclusively from premium, ethically sourced materials—ranging from 14K to 18K solid gold, natural diamonds, pearls, and gemstones—Aequa & Co. caters to the discerning tastes of the modern man. It yields sophistication and yet won't break the bank. Aequa & Co. can circumvent the hefty price tags by overseeing the entire production in-house and bypassing intermediaries and exorbitant markups.
Whether you dress up or down, your Aequa piece seamlessly adapts to every setting. Their offering is a subtle yet distinctive statement that complements any ensemble effortlessly. From morning meetings to evening soirees, its subtle elegance punctuates your style, elevating every moment with an understated touch of sophistication.
And now you know: in the pursuit of that lap of luxury, it's readily accessible; just a mere step away from looking like Dwyane Wade or just looking like a million bucks.
Is it too late to say the footwear and apparel collection entail a series of inspired gifts, installations and games this entire month? Maybe. Doesn't mean you can't drop everything you're doing this very moment and rush down to flagship store adidas Brand Centre Orchard (BCO).
Some history for meaning and significance. These shoes made appearances on global runways and most famously on the feet of Pharrell Williams, were first introduced at the 1950 World Cup in Brazil. The combination of fitted leather panels, padded suede toe box and incredible grip from the rubber outsole made the Samba—dare we say it—the best-known indoor soccer shoe of its time. It allegedly offered players a one-to-one fit and unmatched kicking precision.
Naturally, the sleek, instantly recognisable design paired with the iconic 3-Stripes design then made its way into British youth fashion circles. And now, an icon for the brand. So much so that it got its own modern rendition, the Sambae. By altering the proportions of the timeless trainers through the lens of current fashion sensibilities, it maintains design elements like the suede T-toe box and classic leather upper, yet delivers a chunkier design with an exaggerated rubber platform midsole.
To celebrate this rich heritage, the brand commissioned local artist Iqbal to encapsulate it all in a Streets of Samba mural at the BCO entrance. Besides depicting a a central London street taken over by numerous adidas Samba OGs, the easter egg here is to spot the correct number to win an actual pair of adidas Originals Samba OG or Sambae.
A lowdown of the T&Cs
The contest is open only to adiClub members and public Instagram profiles, via a creative IGS story of the giant installations, the guesses, and @adidassg and #adidasSG tags. Three winners with the correct guesses and most creative submissions will be selected from 8 Jan 2024.
In 1967, Marc Bohan conceptualised the Dior Oblique motif. The longtime creative director of the House (an almost 30-year tenure) first applied the motif on a bag from Dior’s haute couture collection in 1969. Throughout the years, the Dior Oblique has been applied on all manner of pieces by the House— from ready-to-wear to luggage to even the floors of its Dior Monsieur boutique in 1974.
Fast forward to today, the Dior Oblique remains one of Dior’s most quintessential elements. It’s become a mark of the House’s creativity with a range of treatments and interpretations imagined every now and then. The latest, is perhaps one that captures Monsieur Dior’s nonconformist spirit.
The Maxi Dior Oblique revokes any decree that branded logos and motifs are dead. As its name suggests, the Dior Oblique has been blown up like never before for Dior Men’s Spring 2024 collection. Each letter of the motif now takes significant real estate on a range of travel-ready bags and accessories. The collection’s Weekender 40 bag, for example, looks exceptionally roomier with the Maxi Dior Oblique canvas construction giving the illusion of a magnified proportion.
While the Maxi Dior Oblique may look audacious in its original colourway—there’s certainly no mistaking that it’s a Dior—a second all-black option provides a more subtle interpretation but one that’s impactful all the same. The Maxi Dior Oblique is rendered in black and set against a base that’s a couple of shades lighter. When employed on a pair of high-top B23 sneakers, the canvas adds depth and dimension. The motif may not be immediately obvious at first glance, but becomes apparent at multiple angles and in motion.
But the point of the Maxi Dior Oblique isn’t solely for the brash visual of Dior’s signature. It’s an extension of the Dior attitude—of going against the grain and challenging perceptions. After all, this is the same House that proposed a “new look” that further feminised women’s fashion post-World War II.
What’s the inverse of “quiet luxury”? This is it.
