Bulgari zeroes in on the B.zero1’s original shape for its latest novelties, playing with placements of diamonds for a precious refresh.
(BVLGARI)

When Bulgari speaks of the “Italian Genius”, it is referencing Italy as home of the luminaries of science and the arts. From Leonardo Da Vinci’s visionary inventions to the astronomical theories presented by Galileo, to the Renaissance masterpieces by Raphael, Sandro Botticelli and Michelangelo, there is no doubt Italy has been a hotbed of creativity.

Bulgari continues this heritage with the B.zero1 collection. It is a fine example of Bulgari’s Italian Genius manifestation—iconic in its own right, with a strikingly distinct look that is immediately recognisable, even from afar. It’s a statement and a staple credited to its unique design language and its use of clean lines. What started in 1999 as a ring inspired by the Tubogas technique—an industrial- inspired method pioneered by Bulgari—has seen many iterations, each version exploring a different facet of the B.zero1.

Yet, through it all, the foundational design of the B.zero1 stands on its own. Reminiscent of Rome’s Colosseum with its sinewy flowing lines embedded between two thicker edges; these are key characteristics that are the focus of Bulgari’s 2024 B.zero1 novelties.

B.zero 1 ring in white gold with pavé diamonds, BVLGARI

At its simplest, the B.zero1 Essential ring is a basic band branded with the Bulgari logo that’s fitted with a single diamond. Taking it up a notch is a three-band B.zero1 available in 18k rose, yellow, and white gold. Within the circumference of the ring is the interior wave with a diamond pavé set at the edge. The collection’s Mona Lisa is a truly a fearless design rendered in a two-band rose or white gold. Instead of the iconic wave, the interior is bedecked with pavé diamonds. Multiple-sized diamonds were used to create a three-dimensional depth and flow, which captures the fluidity of the original design.

And there will be more to come: two matching bangle bracelets are set to be released in June this year. The bracelets round off the entire collection as well as offer more styling options.

B.zero 1 rings in rose, yellow and white gold with pavé diamonds along the edges or on the spiral, BVLGARI

While American businessman Bert Lance may have reason to propose that “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, that is evidently not how a genius operates. If the constant exploration of creative expressions is a measure of one’s ingenuity then, Bulgari will keep searching for new ways to elevate and refresh an icon like the B.zero1. Because resting on one’s laurels does not break boundaries. This is one of the brand’s noble goals it aims to embody.

Singapore Watch Fair co-founder Nelson Lee
(LUXUO)

In recent years, Singapore has become well-established as one of the world’s top export markets for watches, boasting some of the world’s most engaged enthusiasts and collectors. As interest in horology continues to blossom here, it is inevitable that tastes develop beyond superficial interest in the usual top manufacturers. It is only natural that an appetite for vintage timepieces and independent watchmakers is burgeoning. In recognition of the increasingly diverse tastes in Singapore, Ali Nael and Nelson Lee began the Singapore Watch Fair (SWF), with the goal of helping establish Singapore as a regional hub for watchmaking and collecting. Since founding the Fair in 2017, it has grown, mirroring the island’s growth as a watch export market: from initially being the watch component of the luxury festival Jeweluxe to becoming a standalone event, supported by the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) and Resorts World Sentosa (RWS).

(LUXUO)

This year’s event, taking place at Resorts World Sentosa from 2-6 October, is set to build on the success of last year’s, with both STB and RWS continuing their support. Focus-wise, SWF will also continue to heavily feature independent watchmakers, whilst featuring more appearances from top manufactures, amongst other displays of watchmaking savoir-faire. Watches will remain the central attractions but this show is not just for collectors; there will be something for everyone as SWF demonstrates how and why beautiful watches are central to Singapore’s cultural landscape.

(LUXUO)

In our recent chat with festival director Nelson, he reflected on the story of SWF thus far, and the new experiences attendees can expect to look forward to at this year’s edition.

Does the world need another watch fair?

Nelson Lee: Yes – especially one that is able to bridge the geographical distance between Switzerland and the region – not just in terms of bringing watchmaking expertise to Singapore, but also being able to gather regional interest in one place. There have been stellar examples of such events in the past, but there hasn’t really been one that is consistently held on an annual basis.

(LUXUO)

Moreover, given how Singapore has cemented itself as a top export market for Swiss watches, there definitely is local demand for such events to be held in Singapore, which last year’s SWF proved. So, it wouldn’t be so much that the world needs another watch fair, but more that the region needs an annual watch fair in Asia to look forward to each year – one that caters to local interests, and that is able to form a point of convergence for the best of horology and devoted aficionados in the region.

A key focus of the SWF is that we’re always looking towards the future – this underlines our commitment to showcasing a variety of independent watchmakers every year, which stems from our belief that these independents represent the future of watchmaking, for instance, Krayon and L’Epee 1839…

(LUXUO)

Why has it taken so long for there to be a standalone watch fair in Singapore?

Nelson Lee: To begin with, I believe it’s only in the past five or so years that widespread interest in independent watchmakers and vintage collecting has begun to solidify and take off. As with the rest of the world, the value and appeal of watches only really entered the mainstream consciousness during the COVID period of socio-economic volatility. In the years since, tastes have only developed and diversified to include appreciation for the fine work of independent watchmakers. The SWF has always mainly focused on independent watchmakers and vintage collecting – areas where we felt demand was concrete, and a platform on which we could showcase how far watchmaking has come, and how it could develop, through the juxtaposition of timeless vintage pieces with the finest craftsmanship and avant-garde innovation that contemporary watchmaking has to offer.

In terms of practicality, it was only in 2023 that we were able to secure the support of a second key partner, Resorts World Sentosa. Even then (and the support of STB since 2017), despite the fact that we are more motivated by passion than by profit, the cost factor is not something that can be easily ignored.

How is the SWF improving upon the success of last year’s event?

Nelson Lee: In 2022 and 2023, the panel discussions spotlighting women who collect watches – conducted by TickTock Belles’ Stephanie Soh and Deborah Wong, amongst others – proved to be very popular. We see this as a reflection of change within the collectors’ demographic – where women are now keener to create a space for themselves in what is a traditionally male-dominated sphere, so we’re definitely retaining that and bringing more engaging perspectives from our female collectors.

Besides the various watch panels and plenary sessions, we’re also looking to ramp up the interactivity of the event: through new, on-site, immersive audio-visual driven launches and dinners, as well as a new interactive activity driven by watch expert Carson Chan, perhaps better known on social media by his IG handle @watchprofessor.

In terms of a more hands-on experience, there will also be a strap-making workshop conducted by master craftsmen, which we hope will highlight the innovation and intricate craftsmanship of an oft-underrated aspect of watchmaking.

We are also looking to bring in two more established international watch manufacturers, to add a different dimension to the craftsmanship and innovation expertise that the independent watchmakers will bring.

For more on the 2024 edition of Singapore Watch Fair, click here.

Originally published on LUXUO

Pharrell Williams in Tiffany Titan Medium Link Clasp necklace in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds.
(TIFFANY & CO.)

Pharrell Williams is renowned as a visionary whose creativity transcends music, art, and fashion, solidifying his global cultural icon status over two decades. His boundary-breaking efforts across diverse realms underscore the level of innovation, pioneering spirit, and entrepreneurship he embodies.

Given Williams' stature and influence, it's unsurprising that he has a track record of collaborations with other fashion houses under LVMH and beyond. Notably, he showcased a pair of custom Tiffany & Co. sunglasses while attending Kenzo's Autumn/Winter 2022 runway show. Crafted from 18k gold and embellished with 61 diamonds totalling 25 carats, along with two emerald-cut emeralds, the sunglasses unknowingly became a teaser to Williams' partnership with Tiffany & Co..

An official collaboration between Tiffany & Co. and Williams became inevitable. The Tiffany Titan Collection by Pharrell Williams showcases a remarkable fusion of ancient mythos and modern aesthetics, symbolising vitality, strength, and unwavering resolve.

“I’m very inspired by water, and the name of this collection “Titan” draws inspiration from Poseidon, ruler of the sea, King of Atlantis—“Atlantis” which is also the name of the community I grew up in Virginia Beach. The detail in all of the jewellery pieces is very intentional, the use of black titanium…it’s a physical manifestation of beauty in blackness,” explains Williams.

Tiffany Titan Medium Link bracelet in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds.
(TIFFANY & CO.)

Featuring 19 unique styles—12 in recycled 18k yellow gold and seven in titanium—this collection comprises of an array of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. Each design harmoniously merges luxury with creativity, encouraging wearers to confidently express themselves.

The pieces adopt the structure of the trident with its angular spear-shaped motif. A symbol of unconstrained individualism, the motif is juxtaposed by a uniquely shaped link that juxtaposes the sharpness of the spear, portraying a dialogue between tensions, proportions and balance.

Tiffany Titan Five-row Ring in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds.
(TIFFANY & CO.) 

The pavé pieces are set with fishtail and reverse-set diamonds, strategically placed to catch light from all angles so that the brilliance of every facet is amplified. Meanwhile, titanium accents undergo a molecular process, resulting in a striking deep black hue that enhances the yellow gold features of a range of pieces for a more graphic proposal.

Tiffany Titan Drop Earrings in titanium and 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds.
(TIFFANY & CO.)

The attention to detail is undoubtedly meticulous. The clasps on the necklaces and bracelets seamlessly integrate with the trident motif for a flawless, uninterrupted look. Adding a dynamic touch, the pendants, earrings, and rings boast rotating elements designed to move with the wearer—another example of Tiffany & Co.'s unexpected inventiveness, much like its collaborator's.

Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams will be available this May exclusively on Tiffany.com in the US and at The Landmark in New York City. The collection will be available globally at Tiffany & Co. stores and Tiffany.com in June.

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"Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking."—one can imagine Anna Wintour herself uttering those words as a throng of floral-clad outfits paraded themselves in, one after another, into the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was the first Monday in May, also known as the Met Gala, and Wintour assumed her longtime role as co-chair. She was joined by Met Gala 2024 co-chairs Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya, Chris Hemsworth, and Bad Bunny. Honorary chairs for this year's edition were Loewe's Jonathan Anderson, and Shou Chew, chief executive of TikTok.

The annual benefit celebrated the opening of the latest seasonal exhibition, Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, where around 250 objects spanning four decades are on display. Each fashion object features a relation to nature, serving as a metaphor for the fragility and ephemerality of fashion. As an extension of this time travel of fashion through a nature-centric lens, the theme of Met Gala 2024 was "The Garden of Time". While the title immediately conjures up images of flora and fauna, in actuality, it's quite a broad theme.

"The Garden of Time" is a reference to a 1962 short story of the same name by J.G. Ballard. It tells a story of Count Axel and his wife live in a villa surrounded by a garden of crystal, time flowers. In order to escape an approaching angry mob, the count began plucking off the flowers one by one to travel back in time, until there were none left and they both succumbed to their inevitable downfall.

Yes, it is somewhat of an irony that the story's narrative inspired the dress code for this year's Met Gala—a benefit attended by modern-day aristocrats.

Looking into the source material, the theme leaves room for interpretation. Sure, the florals and anything else garden-related are a given, but manners of aristocratic dress were also options. And due to the time-travelling nature of the story, there's also no fixed period to be restricted by. First-time attendees (and the first K-pop group in history to attend the Met Gala) Stray Kids wore custom Tommy Hilfiger suiting in the brand's signature hues with subtle floral and botanical details, while Barry Keoghan stunned in a velvet Burberry suit that was a nod to period dressing.

Others took on the story's more nuanced theme of doom and destruction. Wisdom Kaye's Robert Wun ensemble was the perfect manifestation of destroyed beauty with its burnt edges; Bad Bunny's Maison Margiela suit featured loose topstitching that were irregularly done; and Dan Levy's Loewe fit beautifully interpreted the theme with a floral suiting that graduated into darkness.

View our picks of the best menswear looks at Met Gala 2024 in the gallery below.

Bad Bunny in MAISON MARGIELA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Christian Cowan and Sam Smith both in CHRISTIAN COWAN. (GETTY IMAGES)
Barry Keoghan in BURBERRY. (BURBERRY)
Usher in ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. (GETTY IMAGES)
Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jon Batiste. (GETTY IMAGES)
Donald Glover in SAINT LAURENT. (SAINT LAURENT)
Harris Dickinson in PRADA. (GETTY IMAGES)
(GETTY IMAGES)
Leon Bridges in WILLY CHAVARRIA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jeremy Strong in LORO PIANA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Gabrielle Union, and Dwyane Wade in VERSACE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Sebastian Stan. (GETTY IMAGES)
Troye Sivan in PRADA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Alex Edelman in S.S.DALEY. (GETTY IMAGES)
Adam Mosseri in TANNER FLETCHER, and Monica Mosseri. (GETTY IMAGES)
Mike Faist in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Cole Escola in THOM BROWNE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Derek McLane. (GETTY IMAGES)
Tom Ford in SAINT LAURENT. (GETTY IMAGES)
Laufey and Prabal Gurung. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jeff Goldblum in PRADA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Alton Mason in THOM BROWNE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Lewis Hamilton in BURBERRY. (BURBERRY)
Michael Shannon in BALENCIAGA. (BALENCIAGA)
Eddie Redmayne in STEVE O SMITH. (GETTY IMAGES)
Bright in BURBERRY. (BURBERRY)
Jazz Charton, and Kieran Culkin in KIDSUPER. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jaden Smith in THOM BROWNE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Dan Levy in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Steven Yeun in THOM BROWNE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Alex Sharp in BALMAIN. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jonathan Bailey in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Damiano David in DIESEL. (GETTY IMAGES)
Reece Feldman in THOM BROWNE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jonathan Groff in SIMONE ROCHA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Ed Sheeran in STELLA MCCARTNEY. (GETTY IMAGES)
Adrien Brody in MAISON MARGIELA, and Georgina Chapman. (GETTY IMAGES)
Lil Nas X in LUAR. (GETTY IMAGES)
Josh O'Connor in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jamie Dornan in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jordan Roth in VALENTINO. (GETTY IMAGES)
Omar Apollo in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Taika Waititi in MARNI, and Rita Ora. (GETTY IMAGES)
Ben Simmons in THOM BROWNE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Gustav Magnar Witzoe in VERSACE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Stray Kids in TOMMY HILFIGER. (GETTY IMAGES)
Stray Kids in TOMMY HILFIGER. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jeremy Pope in TANNER FLETCHER. (GETTY IMAGES)
Wisdom Kaye in ROBERT WUN. (GETTY IMAGES)
Blouson, cardigan, bermudas, trapper hat and Dior Gravity Leather Dior Hit The Road backpack, DIOR MEN
(JACKIE NICKERSON)

Artistic director Kim Jones continues to expand Dior Men’s visual vocabulary in a manner that respects and upholds the legacy of the House. His latest—for the Fall 2024 collection—looks at reimagining the Dior Oblique motif once again.

Debuted in the Dior Men Winter 2023 collection, the Dior Oblique Gravity was the medium of choice to launch a new iteration of the Dior Saddle, dubbed the Dior Saddle Boxy. The Dior Oblique Gravity was introduced in a number of rich, bold hues that highlighted its characteristic patent leather sheen, with the embossed grooves providing a kind of tonal gradation.

For Fall 2024, Jones introduces an update. Where the Dior Oblique Gravity was visually more robust, the Dior Gravity Leather is its softer cousin in more ways than one.

Blouson, mockneck sweater, bermudas and Dior Gravity Leather Dior Hit The Road messenger bag, DIOR MEN
(JACKIE NICKERSON)

Unlike its predecessor, the Dior Gravity Leather employs the use of grain-textured leather for a more matte finish. The embossing technique itself is a work of art that reflects the house’s handcrafted approach in everything that it dabbles in. Instead of a typical embossing technique where pressure is manually applied to create the desired pattern, the Dior Oblique motif visible on the latest expression is created though a unique technique that delicately marks the leather with the aid of gravity. The result is an almost barely-there appearance across a selection of small leather goods and bags.

The Dior Gravity Leather is available in more muted shades of beige, black and khaki. Small leather goods, such as a belt and a cardholder, are dressed in the motif’s original scale, while bags are given a blown-up, maxi version for a play of proportions. The latter includes the Dior Hit The Road backpack that strikes a beautiful balance of luxury fashion and ruggedness in one refined piece.

Jacket, trousers, rings and Dior Gravity Leather Saddle Boxy bag, DIOR MEN
(JACKIE NICKERSON)

1. The Rich shampoo and The Rich conditioner, AUGUSTINUS BADER

Augustinus Bader is known for its potent, science-backed skincare, and now it is extending the cellular- renewing magic of its proprietary TFC8 tech to hair. An upgrade from its predecessor, The Rich shampoo and conditioner work in tandem to revive hair that’s extra-dry, heat-damaged, coloured and/or breakage-prone. Essentially, you’d have a mane like this handsome boy pictured.

2. Backpack, BERLUTI

Don’t be fooled by the appearance of this backpack. This work of art is part of Berluti’s Toujours Soft series. Crafted from Venezia leather, it cuts a rather structured profile but feels incredibly soft (and not to mention, light). The softness also gives the backpack potential to be even more pliable with age. The Scritto-decorated exterior also lends a classic gentlemanly air that’s contrasted with the contemporary top-handle-backpack hybrid.

3. Vetiver Le Parfum, Habit Rouge Le Parfum, and L’homme Idéal Le Parfum, GUERLAIN

Because ideas of what makes a man have changed over the decades, it makes perfect sense for Guerlain to update some of its signature men’s fragrances. Perfumer Delphine Jelk sought inspiration from the world of spirits, transforming Vetiver, Habit Rouge, and L’Homme Idéal into eau de parfums reminiscent of infused gin, bourbon and amaretto respectively. The intensities are heightened thanks to a selection of concentrated ingredients; each of the fragrances is seductive in its own way.

4. Shoes, ZEGNA

How does one create leather shoes that feel buttery-soft on your feet? Zegna achieves it with the use of leather typically reserved for making gloves. Not only is the leather durable and extremely light and airy, the glove leather-tanning process gives it a form- retaining capability that heightens the luxurious feel of the Zegna Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN shoes. Your feet will thank you.

5. Elite 8 Active earbuds, JABRA

Jabra boasts that its Elite 8 Active earbuds are the world’s toughest and it’s easy to understand why. They are US Military-tested to be dustproof; completely waterproof (with the added boon of being saltwater-proof), and fitted with the Jabra ShakeGrip tech to keep your ear buds in place no matter what activity you engage in.

6. Home Collection, River Spey Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, THE MACALLAN

Say hello to the second release in The Macallan Home Collection. This particular expression is a hearty mix of sultana, rich velvety butterscotch, toasted oak, chocolate and nutmeg for that characteristically sweet and fruity palate of the Spey. But beyond the whisky, each bottle comes with a set of three limited-edition giclée prints by artist Michelle Lucking to visually transport you to the natural beauty of The Macallan's home.

7. 1080V13 trainers, NEW BALANCE

It’s all in the foam with this one. The New Balance 1080V13 is fitted with a thick rubber outsole to help increase its durability in high-wear areas. There’s also its midsole that’s made for incredible comfort thanks to its bio-based Fresh Foam X material. There’s no doubt you’d be able to breeze through your daily training runs in these without needing to worry about post-run aches.

8. Aerospace B70 Orbiter, 43mm titanium case with rubber strap, BREITLING

Twenty-five years ago, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones were the first to circle the globe nonstop in a hot air balloon. Their timepiece of choice? Breitling’s Orbiter 3, clocking in 45,633km in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes. To commemorate that incredible feat, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter is dressed with an orange dial reminiscent of the balloon’s capsule and marked with the mission logo. A piece of the original balloon is also embedded within the watch itself, visible through the open caseback—a piece of history in your hand, literally, to remind you of the indomitable human spirit.

9. Scarf, LORO PIANA

We cannot tell you just how soft Loro Piana cashmere is—it is something you will just have to experience for yourself. This fringed cashmere scarf will keep you warm, whether in an air-conditioned setting or during a winter vacay. It’s that luxe feel that’s akin to being snuggled up by a fluffy kitty. Oh, and that circular gold logo adornment adds a rather spiffy touch too.

10. Hammerschlag Cabin suitcase, RIMOWA

We are all familiar with RIMOWA’s signature grooved detailing on its suitcases and accessories by now. But dig deeper into the brand’s archives and you would find the Hammerschlag (the German word for “hammer hit”) that predates the grooves. RIMOWA brought back the textured, polished aluminium series for a limited edition collection. This time, updating it with modern travel functionalities, so that it’s perfect for when you want to escape the rigours of life for a bit.

Photography: Jayden Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Digital Imaging and Retouching: Nguyen Tien Phuc
Photography Assistants: Aisyah Hisham and Brian Neo
Special thanks to Cat Paradise

I first met Robert Spangle, a photographer who goes by the IG handle Thousand Yard Style, at the dandyism lollapalooza known as Pitti Uomo, around a decade ago. That period was peak #menswear: Instagram was relatively new, and Pitti had transformed from a bone-dry trade fair to a well-lubricated orgy of peacockery, with the world’s tailoring aficionados desperately trying to sartorially outgun one another and capture the attention of street photographers such as Tommy Ton, Scott Schuman, and indeed, our man Spangle. (Fallout Boy, if you remember it. Yeah, it was a terrible band, but it had this song that went “This ain’t a scene, it’s a goddamn arms race”, which just about summed it up.)

You’d see Spangle at the Fortezza (the 14th Century Florentine structure where Pitti is held), way off in the distance as his thousand-metre moniker suggests, crouching like a sniper with a long lens, capturing stylish fits, the wearers unawares—giving his imagery , spontaneous vibe lacking in many of the other street style snappers’ posed pics.

A lot of Spangle’s fellow lensmen of that epoch have gone on to create coffee table books documenting stylish metropolitan people looking stylish in a metropolitan setting. Cool, fine. Spangle took a different course for his debut publication, however.

Conflict and style photographer Robert Spangle visited Afghanistan twice in 2021, before and after the Taliban’s return to power. “The second trip was much more intentional,” he says, “seeing what things were like outside Kabul.”
Conflict and style photographer Robert Spangle visited Afghanistan twice in 2021, before and after the Taliban’s return to power. “The second trip was much more intentional,” he says, “seeing what things were like outside Kabul.”
Conflict and style photographer Robert Spangle visited Afghanistan twice in 2021, before and after the Taliban’s return to power. “The second trip was much more intentional,” he says, “seeing what things were like outside Kabul.”

“I’ve been working in fashion for a long time, and one of my theories is that style is an innate part of humanity and what makes us human; that it’s really something inalienable from the human condition. It’s not something that’s dependent on you living in a fashion capital, or even being from a really well-developed country, not even a country that has any kind of social stability. And I thought, ok, if I’m going to have this theory, I’m going to have to prove it,” he explains of the thinking behind his book Afghan Style, which was published last year.

“I had been to Iraq before,” Spangle says with no small degree of understatement—he’d visited to shoot conflict reportage in 2017 and several years earlier, serving in a reconnaissance unit with the US Marines, sussing out the lay of the land in advance of the initial US ‘surges’ of 2010. “I thought Afghanistan would be perfect as a place to prove or disprove this theory, because it was an incredibly poor country, and incredibly isolated—the conflict, the economic isolation and the harsh geography keep most people out. Certainly, this would be a place where, from a Western perspective, you’d expect to find absolutely zero fashion, zero style or any interest in the above.”

Spangle accepted an assignment for a magazine named Esquire (you may be familiar with the masthead, reader) and headed to Afghanistan for a four-to six-week visit. “Once I got there, I realised my theory was right, but my assumptions were wrong—Afghanistan is one of the best environments I’ve ever been in for photographing style, because the level of cultural style, and the value placed on cultural style, is just massive there. It’s everywhere, it’s in all directions.” When he returned from the journey, Spangle says, “I did the hardest photo edit of my entire life. I think I had, like, 120 images that I really couldn’t part with.” It was more than his assignment for Esquire called for. “So then I started thinking about a book.”

Stylistically, Afghan men are “mixing it up in really incredible ways,” says Spangle. “They’re putting things together with a level of colour and sophistication that’s absolutely bonkers.”
Stylistically, Afghan men are “mixing it up in really incredible ways,” says Spangle. “They’re putting things together with a level of colour and sophistication that’s absolutely bonkers.”
Stylistically, Afghan men are “mixing it up in really incredible ways,” says Spangle. “They’re putting things together with a level of colour and sophistication that’s absolutely bonkers.”

Spangle’s publishing plans were nearly scuppered when the Taliban re-took control of Afghanistan in late 2021. He felt the proposed book would lack relevance unless he revisited the country to see how the regime change had affected Afghans’ way of life—and to be able to get a more comprehensive picture of the landscape. Without a return, Spangle says, “I don’t think it would have been a complete document, because the security situation was so bad when I was first there that it was impossible to travel in the country.” He likens that initial visit to going to America and only scoping out New York: “You would get great style, and you would get people from all over the country, but you would not have a complete picture, would you?”

So Spangle went back and visited Afghanistan’s more out-of-the-way regions. What became apparent was, “Afghan men, across the board, are the most proud and self-possessed men I’ve ever met in my entire life,” Spangle says. “It’s kind of mind-blowing, because in the developed world, we always paint impoverished people as, like, grovelling. Yet, in fact, in Afghanistan, every single person you met wanted to look you in the eye and stand on even ground with you—whether they were unemployed, or if they were someone who was better off, like a warlord, they all looked you in the eye, treated you and spoke to you as a man, had total self-confidence.”

Something Spangle loved was, unlike the denizens of Pitti, these guys weren’t dressing for the camera, they weren’t busting rehearsed poses. Yet they looked outstanding. Literally. “How self-possessed these guys were, that blew my mind. And it also made them really easy subjects. I don’t think I’ve had an easier time photographing any group of people on Earth, including places like Pitti Uomo, where people want to be photographed, and I’m sure are practising in the mirror for it,” Spangle says. Afghan gentlemen, meanwhile, “They’re not putting on some kind of show for you. They’re not giving a practised smile—they’re just looking at you as if it’s only natural that you flew 5,000-and-something miles to come and photograph them.”

Just as it’s often the ‘éminences grises’ who stand out at Pitti Uomo—the likes of Lino Ieluzzi, Yukio Akamine, David Evans and Ignatious Joseph—Spangle says the more seasoned Afghan guys possess remarkable style. “There’s a lot of emphasis on maturity in Afghan culture,” he explains. “So young boys, boys, men, mature men: those are really, really big social demarcations in Afghanistan, and that definitely affects the way they dress. You’ve got guys who are like, probably 60-year-old horse hands, who I photographed a few seconds after they dusted off the places that they were sleeping on the ground the night before, using a tarp for a sleeping bag. And they look like a senior stylist at RRL or something, wearing a crazy tweed overcoat and a really cool vest. And for a guy who’s, like, working with horses and sleeping on the ground, they’re just immaculately presented.”

What can we here in Singapore learn from the way Afghan men dress and carry themselves? Clearly, confidence and self-possession are key. Make eye contact. Be a stand-up guy. Don’t be defined by your job or income. Plus, the Afghan sartorial stance—based around the timeless perahan tunban (an ensemble of long popover tunic shirt and loose trousers)—has proven, over the course of centuries, to be highly efficient in a hot, sunny environment. And Spangle says we shouldn’t shy from what some might describe as ‘cultural appropriation’. “I think cultural appropriation is basically what fashion is,” he says. “Fashion is doing what humans do, which is borrowing what we think is cool”—whether you’re gathering your sartorial inspiration from the dandies of Pitti or the horsemen of Helmand.

All photos courtesy of Robert Spangle.

Rowoon.
Junkyu of Treasure.
Baekhyun and Xiumin of EXO.
Mile Phakphum.
Wonwoo and S. Coups of Seventeen.
Haruto of Treasure.
Lewis Hamilton and Rosé.

There was absolutely no stopping the fans in Seoul, South Korea last month from capturing a glimpse of their Korean idols at RIMOWA's official debut of its new seasonal colours—Mint and Papaya. It may have been raining in the morning of the event, but fans were already forming behind a barricade; a number of astute individuals had even placed placards with their information the evening before as a way of securing a spot.

RIMOWA's list of invited celebrity guests had everything to do with the congregation of fans. It was a diverse range with third-generation K-pop idols Baekhyun and Xiumin of EXO, Rowoon (formerly of SF9), and Seventeen's S.Coups and Wonwoo, fourth-generation group Treasure's Haruto and Junkyu, Thai actor Mile Phakphum, Lewis Hamilton, and Rosé. It was also the first time that RIMOWA global ambassadors Hamilton and Rosé were brought together for the same event.

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The organised chaos outside and inside—as journalists and editors scrambled for content and soundbites—the venue was a reflection of the spirited Mint and Papaya colours. Fresh and inviting, the colours were inspired by the vibrant charm of tropical destinations. Mint, a pastel shade of green, draws inspiration from the hues of buildings typical in tropical cities (a RIMOWA staff also painted a scenography of eating mint ice cream while strolling along the beach). Papaya, on the other hand, is a shade of orange reminiscent of the fruit that it's named after as well as the hue of a beachside sunset.

The duo of colours are predominantly available in RIMOWA's Essential series albeit in different combinations. Mint is available in Cabin, Check-In L and Trunk Plus sizes, while Papaya colours the Cabin, Check-In M and Trunk Plus sizes. Save for the wheels and telescopic handle on each suitcase, both colours appear on every facet for a seamless appearance. A trio of packing cubes are also offered in both colours, as well as a sticker set and luggage charms.

For those who prefer hints of the latest colours, Mint and Papaya are now part of the customisable RIMOWA UNIQUE experience. Wheels, handles, and tags in Mint and Papaya can be fitted onto RIMOWA's Classic suitcases in whatever permutation one sees fit.

But with RIMOWA increasingly becoming more than just a luxury travel accessory brand, Mint brings fresh interpretations of its more lifestyle offerings. The emblematic RIMOWA Personal crossbody bag is updated with a White Gloss polycarbonate body trimmed with Mint-coloured webbing strap as well as a Mint leather interior. The Signature range—newly introduced in November last year—adopts Mint as a Flap Backpack in a large size, and its roomy Duffle bag, with both designed to easily integrate with any RIMOWA suitcase.

Essential Cabin in Mint, RIMOWA.
Essential Check-In L in Mint, RIMOWA.
Essential Trunk Plus in Mint, RIMOWA.
Essential Cabin in Papaya, RIMOWA.
Essential Check-In M in Papaya, RIMOWA.
Essential Trunk Plus in Papaya, RIMOWA.
Packing Cubes in Mint, RIMOWA.
Packing Cubes in Papaya, RIMOWA.
Classic with Papaya handles and wheels, RIMOWA.
Classic with Mint handles and wheels, RIMOWA.
Summer Sticker Set, RIMOWA.
Summer Sunset and Summer Cocktail Luggage Charms, RIMOWA.
Signature Flap Backpack Large in Mint, RIMOWA.
Signature Duffle in Mint, RIMOWA.
Personal Polycarbonate Cross-Body Bag in Mint, RIMOWA.

So the question now is: Mint or Papaya? It's not an easy pick. Whichever you end up choosing, RIMOWA's lifetime warranty on all its suitcases (only for those purchased after 25 July 2022) guarantees that there's hardly a wrong choice.

The new RIMOWA seasonal colours Mint and Papaya are now available in boutiques.

A continued experimentation

There is reason why Loewe is one of the most anticipated shows each season. It has more to do with the out-of-the-box ideas that creative director Jonathan Anderson concocts each time rather than the celebrities that turn up for them (and trust us, there's been an increasing number of them). The fact that some of the celebrities would choose to wear the runway pieces days after they're presented is testament to the fresh and boundary-pushing silhouettes. 

For Spring/Summer 2024, the key highlight of the collection comes in the form of very high-waisted trousers that reach, at least, an inch above the belly button. The result is a dramatically elongated bottom with the torso effectively cut to a 1:3 ratio. Even more dramatic are the ones drenched in rhinestones and when paired with equally bejewelled polo shirts, the look is anything but staid.

Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.
Loewe.

While the combination has been getting a lot of media attention due to the number of celebs that have worn variations of it, there's a lot more to the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. There are vests twisted into a giant knot, deliciously oversized outerwear, and even a top that's effectively just secured with a giant pin. Sure, you won't be seeing the latter out in the streets on a normal weekday but the idea that something as conceptual as that could still be somewhat desirable to a fashion-loving audience clamouring for new perspectives is pretty inspiring. 

Need knits

Anyone who appreciates knitwear knows that there are almost limitless possibilities in what can be crafted from yarns. Automatons are indeed available to spit out a piece of knitwear in as little time as possible. But the creation of intricate pieces is often done by hand and, as this season shows, results in truly stunning works of art.

Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen.
Gucci.
Bottega Veneta.
Bottega Veneta.
Bottega Veneta.

Even at its simplest—as with a Gucci number in shades of blues and white—knit can have beautiful textures, adding depth to an exaggerated drop shoulder and a side-shoulder zip for unlimited styling capabilities. Bottega Veneta presents an array of knits that each display a different technique and skill. In one, the knitting is purposely twisted and warped to create a unique irregular pattern. In another, it presents itself as an abstract interpretation of the House's Intrecciato leather technique. 

Alexander McQueen takes it up a few notches, at least in terms of visual appeal. While several knits employ some on-brand deconstruction, it's the crochet vests that are just stunning. Florals for Spring is groundbreaking when done through a three-dimensional crochet consisting of a collage of flora. Even in its more single-hued variation, the textures stand out in the best ways possible.

Dior Men does tweed

Chanel may have adopted tweed as an enduring icon of the house and in the process, feminised the material. But in actuality, tweed began in the masculine domain. Invented by Scottish farmers in the 18th century, tweed was a means of keeping warm during the harsh winters. Its characteristically rough-hewn texture is designed to be weather-resistant—locking in heat and wicking away water. 

Dior Men artistic director Kim Jones reimagined tweed for its Summer 2024 collection. His penchant for merging the traditionally feminine codes of the Dior house with contemporary menswear is amped up with tweed woven into the emblematic Cannage motif. It's then used on everything from outerwear to cardigans and couture-level tailoring. 

Jones did not attempt at all to masculinise the material. Instead, he employs tweed as an example of the Dior Men aesthetic that he's built where the unexpected combination of tradition and the contemporary is married with the rich history of the house.

The Summer 2024 ready-to-wear pieces aren't the only ones where tweed is used, and thankfully so. Bags—spot the complete tweed iteration that's a more luxurious take on the outdoor backpack—and shoes, like loafers and sneakers, make full use of tweed's function-meets-aesthetic traits. You wouldn't be caught dead in a full tweed look in the summer—and you shouldn't—but the individual pieces look good enough to bust out now and then for an elevated sense of style. 

It's time for some cleavage

Anthony Vaccarello has decided that Spring/ Summer 2024 is the season for the man-cleavage. The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 menswear collection is replete with scoop-neck tops that highlight all the chest-pumping work you've been religiously focusing on at the gym. While Vaccarello's offerings may appear somewhat extreme (they're cut just inches away from a potential nip-slip) there's no denying that there's a certain level of sex appeal. Versace reckons so too with its silk tanks affording almost the same level of chest-baring proclivity.

Before you scoff at the design choice as simply something done by brands that are more fashion-forward than others, you'd be surprised to know that even Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are in on it too. The former stuck to a no-inner-under-suits look that crops up ever so often, while Emporio Armani embraced the chest with open shirting and waistcoats that are cut above the belly button.

Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent.
Giorgio Armani.
Giorgio Armani.
Versace.
Versace.
Emporio Armani.
Emporio Armani.
Emporio Armani.

Take this as the reverse crop top trend. Baring your chest is more forgiving than wearing a cropped top. It's much harder to achieve visible, three-dimensional abs than it is to get a decent defined chest. And the best thing is, you could get away with letting the chest breathe a little in public without drawing too much negative attention from wearing a cropped top. 

There's some gender-equality debate to be had here for sure but at the end of the day, do what feels right for you. Trends come and go but style is everlasting—or something to that effect.

Read on for part one of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.

When we first bore witness to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections slightly over six months ago—because, you know, fashion—it looked to be a very exciting time for menswear. It wasn't only for the unprecedented manner Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week Men's for his Louis Vuitton debut as creative director, but also for the strong proposals of what it means to be a man today. 

Homogeneity takes a backseat to make way for a splicing of masculine ideals. There's more than enough room for a man to be himself, however he wants to. The diverse range seen throughout the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections echoes the embrace of men unafraid of masculine displays in atypical machismo fashion. From the updated signatures of Giorgio Armani to Loewe's experimental codes, the collections are not for the everyman but for every man

That said, there's no reason to stick to one particular style too. The world contains multitudes—a multifaceted prism of the human race. Some days, you'd want to dress in sleek cuts peppered with soft nuances like from Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent. On other days, you'd feel like exuding a modern aristocrat courtesy of Dior Men. With choices aplenty, why settle for just one facet of your being? 

Boyish tendecies

Zegna.
Zegna.
Zegna.
Gucci.
Hermès.
Hermès.
Burberry.
Burberry.
Valentino.
Valentino.
Valentino.
Valentino.

It's funny to think that when we were younger, there was a strong desire to want to be older and bigger. And once we've reached the realities of adulthood, we often look back fondly at the relative carefree ease of our youth. We are not projecting but it does seem to be a constant narrative in fashion—drawing inspiration from childhood and youthful energy. 

What's evident for Spring/Summer 2024 is the adoption of boyish proportions. Rejecting any sense of what the "perfect" fit is, brands like Gucci (still a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection) opt to channel this through a calculated drowning of the body with fabric. It's almost like wearing a piece from an older and much bigger figure, while others pair oversized tops with shorts and bermudas that barely graze the knees. The latter wouldn't look out of place in the skateboard scene but materialised with modern tailoring as exemplified by Valentino and Burberry. Hermès offers shorts that almost disappear under outerwear and knitwear, effectively creating its most daring menswear proposal yet. 

If you intend to jump on the bandwagon, start with Zegna's more proportioned stylings consisting of oversized tops and outerwear with loose-fit bermudas. Those look more intentional than try-hard. 

The Pharrell

Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.

Pharrell Williams knows how to put on a show. The man is a multi-award-winning musician after all, with style chops to boot. Louis Vuitton, however, is a beast of its own and the pressure to deliver as creative director of its men's universe is certainly significant, to say the least. Williams' debut, while a spectacle, was also a showcase of his knowledge of image-making. 

The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is rife with elements even the most casual follower of Williams would be familiar with. And that's because one can imagine Williams wearing almost every look, down to the pearl accessories. It's the short suits and coordinates, the tasteful use of jewellery and accessories (and at times a merging of both) as well as the sharp tailoring—everything feels very Williams.

That the collection looks like it exited Williams' personal wardrobe would've been an issue if not for the way he incorporated Louis Vuitton signatures. The Damier is reinvigorated with a camouflage treatment and in some instances, decorated with his penchant for pearls. The LV Monogram gets significant real estate throughout the collection (what "quiet luxury"?) on the reworked bags that are made with a softer and more pliable construction.

There's also a continuation of the legacy that the late Virgil Abloh set as a precedent during his time as creative director. The casting is diverse—ethnicity, body size, age and gender—and the collection feels like it could be worn by just about anyone from any part of the world. If anything, for that alone, Williams' debut is every bit the success that Louis Vuitton was banking on. 

Who needs a hand to hold

...when you have a bag that's more comfortable to the touch. Williams may have been on to something when he switched up the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy to be less of a structured bag. The reimagined Speedy P9 is made with naturally supple-grained calfskin and completely lined with lambskin leather. The effect is a buttery soft feel that responds to every touch and is comfortable enough to hug as a clutch.

Prada.
Prada.
Prada.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton.
Bottega Veneta.

The Speedy P9 isn't the only big and soft carrier of the season. Even within the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, the more traditionally constructed Speedy 50s offer a similar size-and-feel factor. At Prada, leather travel and tote bags are supersized and with such a supple composition that they're carried on the runway as though they're designed strapless. 

Perhaps the most outrageous of them all is Bottega Veneta's thoroughly oversized drawstring duffel. It stands as tall as half a typical human male model. It's decadently crafted out of exotic skin and for obvious reasons, you'd probably never want to let go of this one. 

Sliding in

Burberry.

This may perhaps be the new luxury fashion version of the much-maligned Crocs—you either hate it or love it. Among Burberry's offering of footwear for its Summer 2024 collection come slides that are part mules and part loafers. 

Look, we get it; this is probably not for everyone but hear us out. Each pair is embellished with crystals and made of rubber, so you know that they're going to be comfortable and perfect for the tropical climate. The uppers are also perforated 

with a detachable Equestrian Knight Design charm. Position it wherever you want for an offbeat look. 

It actually does look great with a pair of socks in the same colour family. Although we might lose the charm for a more streamlined aesthetic. It's one of those things that you wouldn't immediately gravitate towards but give it a few wears and this is one pair you'd be glad to have in your collection. But like everything else thus far this season, you do you. 

The soft approach

The idea of utility has always been prevalent in menswear. While its use is seen in pieces made primarily for the outdoors, a hybridisation has been happening of late, thanks in part to streetwear's influence. The treatment however, has often been rugged and hardy with a clear leaning to its roots, but for Spring/Summer 2024 we're seeing a shift. 

While not exactly crafted from the most precious of materials, the season's take on utilitarian fashion is softer in make while still retaining its functional aspect. Givenchy, for example, reduced the number of pockets on its gilet to two main zipped compartments that make up almost half of the entire piece of clothing. It's also made from a lightweight nylon material for easier wear during the summer months.

Emporio Armani.
Emporio Armani.
Versace.
Kenzo.
Tod's.
Tod's.
Givenchy.
Givenchy.
Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen.
Prada.
Prada.

Similarly, Berluti's lightweight technical-inspired blazer adopts the weather-resistant capabilities of nylon. Add to it, the nifty patch pockets finished with reinforced seams and chest zipped slots that are beautifully topped with leather pull tabs. They're key design elements that are also seen in a swathe of the collection's outerwear, including on a suede bomber.

If Givenchy's gilet isn't up to task to meet your OCD tendencies, Prada's option offers the kind of organised functionality you'd expect from a military-grade gilet. Except it's rendered in a hue that's more fashion-forward than forest-friendly. For those who prefer their utilitarian pieces in the thinnest fabric possible, Emporio Armani's translucent proposals make for stellar investments. Just keep in mind to wear something under though.

Read on for part two of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.

As the warmth of the Italian summer approaches, Gucci unveils a new collection, Gucci Lido—"Lido" referring to luxurious beach resorts that are plenty on the Italian coastline. The summer-ready collection pays homage to the enchanting allure of coastal living, capturing the essence of sun-kissed days and effortless, carefree moments of the season. 

The Gucci Lido campaign sees creative director Sabato De Sarno teaming up with photographer Anthony Seklaoui to capture themes of escapism and spontaneity. From swimwear to breezy resortwear, the collection offers a range of pieces that seamlessly blends luxury with comfort—the makings of a perfect summer wardrobe.

The Gucci Jackie and GG Marmont bags are refreshed in straw-effect raffia and canvas for a more laid-back aesthetic while easily set to become a summer essential. Neon-hued trims add a playful spin on the classic GG canvas that range from small accessories such as cardholders to duffel bags and luggage. And to complete the Lido aesthetic, pieces dressed in neoprene and finished with cable trims take on a more literal approach.

To bring the Gucci Lido experience to life, Gucci has erected a pop-up (the only one in the world) at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands. Located right outside the Gucci boutique on the first floor, the pop-up showcases the full range of clothing and accessories from the collection, as well as a number of exclusives.

The Gucci Lido pop-up is located at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, Level 1 Grand Colonnade South until 19 May 2024.

Givenchy is currently in transition. After the departure of former artistic director Matthew M Williams, the storied luxury fashion house is still left without a creative head. Its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection presented during Paris Fashion Week Men's in January this year, was designed in-house and showcased salon-style at the House's headquarters.

Williams officially left Givenchy on 1 January 2024 after three years, with his last efforts for the House being its Pre-Autumn 2024 womenswear and menswear collections. But his final menswear runway show was for the Spring/Summer 2024 season with the collection currently available in boutiques.

The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection draws on the study of elegance and sartorialism with school uniforms as a starting point. It's a stylistic dialogue between traditional masculine code of dress and the classic wardrobe of a gentlemen. Williams too applied some of his own experiences growing up with fashion through his penchant for streetwear-inspired stylings evident in the collection's more utilitarian pieces.

At the gallery below, take a look at some of the backstage moments from the show, lensed by Adam Katz Sinding.

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