Creative director Jonathan Anderson is one of the leading designers of his generation, earning both critical acclaim and commercial success since his appointment at Loewe in September 2013. Under his leadership, Loewe has embraced significant change. Each collection reflects a dedication to art, craftsmanship, design, and fashion. Loewe continues to evoke emotions, with artisanal know-how and the human touch always present.

The previous Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show, centred on how points of view define perceptions and scales, and how they draw silhouettes—highlighting Loewe's constant exploration of drawing inspiration from both the environment and the human mind. It will be fascinating to see where Anderson's exploration and experimentation will take us next with the upcoming show.

For confirmation of what the Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 6pm Singapore time

(DIOR)

Now in his sixth year at the Maison, artistic director Kim Jones has built a reputation for elevating Dior's menswear, seamlessly blending street style elements with the house's couture history. For the Dior Men Summer 2024 collection, Jones paid tribute to various Dior predecessors and eras, integrating their influences with a contemporary design language. Constantly challenging the notions of tradition and modernity, there's no doubt that the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will be one that brings to the fore forgotten or lesser known elements of Dior's history.

For confirmation of what the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Dior Men Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 21 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time

The Dior and Stone Island Capsule
(ETHAN HART)

When buying clothes, do you prioritise longevity, practicality, functionality or style? Perhaps all these aspects can be challenging without resorting to Gorp Core. However, the collab between Dior's haute couture legacy and Stone Island's utilitarianism might tick all your boxes. This collection combines the romance and precision of Parisian haute couture with the skilled, detailed craftsmanship of Northern Italy.

This fusion of clothing traditions showcases the expertise of both brands, epitomising Dior Men's identity. It captures modern skills, highlighting the romance, precision, and detail that define both traditions. Neither is just about looking functional, practical, or handmade. Instead, both brands' styles are respected, followed and, may we add, improved.

A Common Ground: High Quality Fabrications

Dior and Stone Island unite through their use of high-quality materials, especially silk. Ah, yes silk—this staple in haute couture and military garments alike. This is the material that brings all the sophisticated boys to its yard. Stone Island’s dyeing technique appears throughout the collection, reimagined by the Parisian atelier with garment-dyed embroidery on both outerwear and knitwear.

(ETHAN HART)

Bold Colours and Iconic Symbols

Colour takes centre stage in this collection. Stone Island's signature colours and silhouettes are intensified and transformed. Iconic elements like Dior's cannage pattern and the compass are woven into the designs, from quilting to leather constructions. Standing proudly alongside Stone Island’s iconic silk-based compass badge, the Dior logo is enhanced with the cannage motif.

(ETHAN HART)

Hybrid Footwear

The shoes in this collection blend functionality with traditional formal shoemaking. Boots and Derbies—a classic Dior element—inspired by hiking shoe design, featuring thick soles, both practical and elegant.

(ETHAN HART)

Bags: The Epitome of Craftsmanship

The bags showcases modern craftsmanship for men. Combining high luxury with advanced usability, these bags are more than just material and finish. With traditional leatherwork, contemporary craftsmanship and high functionality these defines the essence of Dior Men today. Additionally, the bags and clothes can also be enhanced by accessories. This collection reflects countless hours of work, merging traditional techniques with modern demands in a generational project.

The Dior x Stone Island capsule collection would be available in stores on 4 July.

(SHANGHAI TANG)

For over three decades, SHANGHAI TANG has blended luxury fashion and lifestyle with Asian flair. It's a cute-meet between East and West. Through the combination of millennia-old cultural influences, exquisite craftsmanship, and contemporary art.

Renowned for its collaborations with artists to promote Chinese arts and culture, the brand didn't break new ground with its partnership with Jacky Tsai. But it is a collaboration that works. The multimedia Chinese artist, who is based in London, has an impressive body of work that ranges from traditional canvases to real-time NFT digital pieces, integrating Eastern ideology and cultural symbols with Western Pop art icons and motifs. Themes of his pieces include alternative narratives and realities, constantly reflecting on our own.

Like SHANGHAI TANG, Jacky Tsai unifies the differences and similarities between perceptions. His art is a provocation into viewers' ideas of intercultural relationships and that establishes both tension and harmony between cultural representations.

(SHANGHAI TANG)

This year’s Holiday Collection draws inspiration from Tsai’s iconic butterfly and galloping horse motifs. Each piece is infused with a dynamic and chic pop art vibe. With bold colour contrasts and striking patterns, it embodies the lively spirit of Tsai's original artworks. Along with SHANGHAI TANG's signature embroidery, it imbues a refined craftsmanship. You're wearing art as each garment is a canvas of creativity. The collection features limited edition pieces with exclusive designs that captures three decades of a shared artistry and cultural innovation.

The Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 runway show wasn't an easy one to get to. It's about a half-an-hour drive from the centre of Milan to the industrial space and from the outside, it looked like a blank white canvas. The inside however, Zegna had it converted into a field of linen plants concentrated towards the centre. This became the runway where the models eventually stood along neat emptied out space in the midst of the field.

The linen plants, however, weren't exactly what they appeared to be. Global brand ambassador Leo Wu proved this as I witnessed him cheekily playing with one before plucking it out from its spot. It was a metal rod, varnished into a specific of shade of yellow and gave it quite a naturalistic look. Aside from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection being centred around the brand's traceable Oasi Lino—a concept that's set to continue on every Spring/Summer season—it was also about this idea of how nothing is ever really what it seems. No two things are exactly same for artistic director Alessandro Sartori, even when they looked similar on the runway.

"It is the moment to focus on how items are or can be used, on the singular ways they mould to individual personalities," Sartori says, referencing how it's the right time to expand on the aesthetic that's been crafted and established since Autumn/Winter 2021. It's evident from the fact that the models engaged for the show were as diverse as they come in terms of age, race, and even gender. And while there were some commonalities among some looks in terms of colours or even print, each look was different, brought out even more by the attitude of the model wearing them.

The fit: It's the Zegna that we've all come to adore by Sartori. The tailoring was impeccable with the kind of flow and languid silhouettes that's favoured, but at the same time, cut at the right spots such that none of the models appeared to drown while wearing an oversized polo or a drop-shoulder blazer.

Necklines were reduced further that at times, they didn't require any sort of fastening. It's a subtle tweak but emphasised this hybridisation of formal and relaxed that's become a fundamental Zegna trait. They looked at home worn under the collection's more traditional suiting to create an almost perfectly layered collar effect.

The details: The brand is through and through a ready-to-wear-first brand. At the same time, its Triple Stitch footwear has become such an icon that it may be time to expand that universe a tad further. The runway saw only one footwear adorning the feet of all the models: a new loafer referred to as Mocassin. It's designed with a slightly rounded toe and crafted long and narrow to elongate. True to form, the Mocassin was also minimally designed but again, traipsed that line between formal and relaxed.

Similarly, the brand's bags haven't been much of a focus as a whole, but the capriciousness of the collection's bags definitely drew my attention. For starters, some models (including runway closer, Mads Mikkelsen) carried a different large one on each hand. These were probably some of the biggest bags that Zegna has done in a while and definitely made to be lived in—for just about everything and anything.

Three exceptional looks: The sumptuous and unexpected pairing of deep colours in look 7; the striking printed look 24 that's essentially a shortened pyjama suit; and look 33's stunning tonal combination of yellows with trousers cut to make one look taller.

The takeaway: A truly studied approach to approaching wearable luxury fashion in the contemporary sense.

View the full Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.

Longtime artistic director of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian, has crafted such a signature look for the House's menswear collections that its Spring/Summer 2025 outing will certainly be one to anticipate. Hermès has already teased a look—a knit shirt with a dip-dye effect in a blue that reflects the sea. It does seem as though that could be the reference point for Nichanian's latest collection, or at the very least, just one element of it.

For confirmation of what the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time

I don't think anyone had so much of an inkling as to how the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was going to look like. Creative director Sabato De Sarno left little clues, and the show invite—a set square engraved with "la misura dell'amore è amare senza misura" ("the measure of love is to love without measure")—ultimately didn't really have anything to do with geometry or math. And thank god for that because after a hectic Milan Fashion Week Men's schedule, I'm sure none of us would have wanted a problem to figure out.

To some, however, De Sarno's Gucci aesthetic may be a problem. Some might say that his sophomore menswear collection, while a more vibrant proposal with prints ripe for the season, left little to be desired; that there isn't a strong enough of a point-of-view.

Having a "point-of-view" tends to be thought of as having concepts that are singular—a look so unique and easily identifiable that it will immediately be recognisable as being Gucci. I'd argue that De Sarno doesn't lack one, but rather, it's an aesthetic that isn't targeted to just one archetype.

The setting of the runway show reflected this. The Triennale Milano is a museum of art and design where a diverse range of works are collected and exhibited. I'm not equating the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection to that of works of art (although the oversized shirts decorated completely with paillettes came close) but there seems to be a growing idea of the Gucci wardrobe being able to be collected throughout the season, spliced and then combined to create looks that are part of one's style. Is that enough of a point-of-view?

The fit: It's a the-city-meets-the-beach style narrative consisting of short shorts that would've been perfect for the weather during the show (Paul Mescal made an excellent outfit choice). De Sarno repeated his penchant for oversized tops with shirting left untucked, offering just a peek of the shorts underneath.

Colour-blocking was heavily utilised. In fact, this was a stark difference from the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection—this was colour on steroids almost. Acid hues were paired with vibrant prints of dolphins, surfers, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves.

The details: We do need to talk about the hardware. The Horsebit is set to be an element that De Sarno seems to be planning to drive down our throats. It's apparent on the pointed toe iterations of the Horsebit loafers that he introduced for Autumn/Winter 2024 but this time, expanding the offering with boots. Belts are also given the Horsebit treatment and with a new surprise. What I initially thought were just Horsebit belts from my vantage point were actually a combination of a double-ended snap hook closure (a hardware that has replaced the piston closure in De Sarno's Jackie bags) as well as the d-rings of the Horsebit.

A bag that could potentially be on a lot of people's wishlist would be a new crossbody bag fitted with the snap hook closure. They're slightly reminiscent of the Horsebit 1955 and that's not exactly a bad thing.

Three exceptional looks: Look 14's masterful layering of a polo over a shirt; the oversized polo shirt embellished with paillettes in look 26; and look 34's classic with a twist.

The takeaway: Once more (one last time, hopefully), it's a new Gucci that's not quite less is more nor more is more.

View the full Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

Now that Milan Fashion Week Men's is done, we're heading to Paris where Louis Vuitton will kick things off with its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show by Pharrell Williams. This will be Williams' third menswear show, and with the previous two taking references from cultures and experiences around the world, his latest offering may perhaps take on a similar slant. But perhaps, as "Le monde est à vous" is what the show is being called—literally "the world is yours"—it may be even bigger than before.

For confirmation of what the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Wednesday, 19 June 2024 at 2.30am Singapore time

I hate to bring up "quiet luxury" again (have we used this term to death yet?) but that pretty much sums up the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear offering by Dolce&Gabbana. And it's not a bad thing.

The Dolce&Gabbana you see on the runway and what you eventually see people buy into tend to be different—the latter is often logo-heavy. For a few season now, the brand has slowly deviated from this, offering collections that are more subtle in branding with a focus on the silhouettes and details that are more emblematic of the brand but not necessarily what the general public's impression of the brand is like.

It's a strong proposition from the very first look: a raffia jacket woven with two different colours, and with weaving techniques also reflected in an extended belt as well as woven lace-ups. Yes, it did look rather stiff on the runway but then came look 12's raffia coat that dispelled any talk about the raffia pieces in the Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 collection being stiff and impractical. The fluidity was there and so was the structure—in other words, splendid Italian craftsmanship.

The fit: It's difficult to not see the nod to '60s and '70s fashion in the collection—coincidentally or not, that was also when wicker-woven design pieces reigned supreme—but kept to Dolce&Gabbana's classic oversized-top look. There were some semblances of tailoring in a few looks but the overall aesthetic skewed towards the summer holiday locales of Capri, Venice, and Portofino. Sailor-collared shirting were punctuated with stripes of different widths (lending that '70s vibe), while scarves adorned looks that were made perfect for the Italian coast.

The details: Weaving is undoubtedly the central technique that the collection was built around. Dolce&Gabbana employed weaving techniques across leather and raffia. They were varied in applications as well as techniques, with some appearing like crochet, especially in a number of footwear.

What caught my eye however, were the coral embroideries that were featured quite beautifully in a number of looks. It was look 29's variation—an ivory white suit with trousers decorated with coral-hued embellishments—where I could hear the clinging of the pieces as the model walked in front of me. And considering how loud fashion shows tend to be, it was quite an experience.

Three exceptional looks: Look 15's oversized woven top matched with an equally woven bag and shoes; the monochromatic colour-blocking in look 21 with the most gorgeous shade of green; and look 38's clever use of stripes.

The takeaway: Refined, different, and subtle all the same–this is a Dolce&Gabbana collection for the discerning.

View the full Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

Jacket, shirt and trousers, DIOR MEN

"I think I'm pretty good at this," Cha Eun-woo nonchalantly said while playing a game with Dior where he masterfully guessed the Dior Men collection by artistic director Kim Jones based on a number of corresponding objects.

He should be a pro at it; Cha has been to a number of runway shows for both Dior and Dior Men since 2022. In fact, he was the only Korean idol to have ever attended a fashion show in Egypt, the site of Dior Men's first show in the country for its Fall 2023 show in Cairo.

Cha's connection with Dior began in 2022, first as a Dior Beauty ambassador. Sure, there's no doubt that the multi-talented actor and singer is as good-looking as they come—there's that impossibly perfect, poreless, porcelain skin and facial proportions that can only be described as stripped from a fantasy novel—but Cha's proven to be more than just a beautiful face. The man has serious style chops.

At the 2022 exhibition Treasure Gardens in Seoul by French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel (sponsored by Dior Beauty), Cha wore a Dior Men double-breasted suit with classic accoutrements. It was his first official appearance for the House and it felt fitting as a nod to Dior's haute couture beginnings. But just as Dior Men is more than mere tailoring, Cha has proven that he's quite a fashion chameleon with a range that's as wide as the roles he's taken on as an actor.

Cha continuously exemplifies style deftness on the front row. His first Dior show, the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 collection, saw him opting for a full-black ensemble with a Dior Cannage coat that added much needed textural contrast. In Cairo, he switched it up with an outfit from the Dior Men Spring 2023 collection—a collaboration with Los Angeles-based ERL—that stood out in a different way. "There were several outfits I tried during fitting and chose this in the end," he said, referring to the tinsel sweater in a gradation of blues from look 15 of the collection. And if that wasn't enough tinsel, he had on a Dior Saddle bag in the same treatment and affixed with an oversized gold chain. But before you cry foul that Cha essentially wears Dior Men like how it's styled on the runway, he substituted the jorts and sneakers in the original look for denim jeans and sneakers that complemented his frame and gave more attention to the top half of his outfit.

Turtleneck and Dior Gravity Leather Weekender bag, DIOR MEN

It's this duality (a term that's been gaining popularity of late in reference to celebrities being adaptable and having multiple personas) that makes Cha quite the perfect Dior man. You'd see him in a monochromatic, elegant ensemble one day, and the next, he'd be in the House's more streetwear-inspired leanings.

The Dior Men Fall 2024 collection speaks to this duality—a convergence of past, present and future. Jones continued exploration of the house codes led him to the visual narratives by Monsieur Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. The collection might be a tailoring-focused one, but peppered with elements of the outdoors as well as military-inspired pieces. Subverted tailoring include front-tie blazers and striped shirts paired with shorts as well as bermudas lined with a peeking layers of silk. There's an Art Deco feel in the patterns used on sweaters with zipped details providing that extra element of functionality.

Dior Gravity Leather reinforces the Dior Oblique motif's timeless relevance. The latest interpretation of the icon sees an entirely unique embossing technique that marks leather with the aid of gravity, hence the name. The result is a grained leather series of bags, shoes and accessories that are branded ever so lightly with the motif.

Coat, waistcoat, trousers and Dior Gravity Leather Odeon drivers, DIOR MEN
Parka, cardigan, bermudas, socks and Dior Gravity Leather B33 sneakers, DIOR MEN
Jacket, turtleneck and Dior Gravity Leather Weekender bag, DIOR MEN
Shirt and bracelet, DIOR MEN

One could say that Cha's ascension into the stratosphere of fame is akin to defying gravity. Even before debuting as a member of then-sextet Astro, he was already dabbling in acting. To date, he's appeared in a couple of films and a string of series, of which the latest, Wonderful World, explored a darker side with themes of grief and revenge. Cha released his first solo EP ENTITY in February but even before that, he's lent his voice as a solo artist in a number of soundtracks.

What's next for Cha? No one really knows except the man himself. But what's for certain is that he'll be taking anything on with the spirit of a Dior man—with grace, elegance, and style.

Photography: Park Jongha
Editor: Im Geon
Styling: Lim Keon
Art Designer: Ju Jeong-hwa
Hair: Lee Il-jung
Make-up: Ahn Sung-hee
Nails: Kim Su-ji
Assistant: Kim Jung-ho
Animation: Joan Tai

After a promising menswear debut for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, creative director Sabato De Sarno is readying his sophomore menswear collection for Gucci.

The show will be staged at the Triennale Milano, a museum of art and design located in the heart of the city. The choice of venue is intended for the House to pay homage to Italian heritage of craftsmanship and innovation. And if that tells us anything at all about the upcoming collection, is that De Sarno could probably be tapping on a bit more on Gucci's place in Italian fashion and in turn, expanding on the visual vocabulary that he's been setting up the House for.

For confirmation of what the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.

What: Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Monday, 17 June 2024 at 8pm Singapore time

Part of Miu Miu's renaissance is thanks to a more focused aesthetic as well as expanding its offerings to include more gender-neutral pieces and collaborations.
(MIU MIU)

Miu Miu’s predominantly women-centric fashion hasn’t stopped it from encroaching into the men’s wardrobe. Those of us who lived through the 1990s may remember Miu Miu’s menswear line launched for the Spring/Summer 1999 season through to its final collection for Spring/Summer 2008. The brand has since sneakily relaunched menswear without explicitly calling it as such, but instead, began introducing a number of male models on the runway as well as offering select designs in a bigger range of sizes.

The quiet repositioning of the Miu Miu brand runs in tandem with its sneaker collaborations with New Balance. Also offered in slightly larger sizes—they go up to a IT46—each drop has progressively grown to be so coveted that they are sold out within hours on official launch days, despite the hype around sneakers no longer being what it was years ago. Miu Miu’s collaboration with Church’s that began for the Autumn/Winter 2023 season also followed suit.

The marketing strategy for Miu Miu has in turn, shifted to skew towards a genderless approach. Musician and actor Troye Sivan walked the Spring/Summer 2024 runway show, and in Singapore, the brand has expanded its roster of influencers to include those who identify as male.

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As slow and steady (and subtle) as Miu Miu’s renaissance has been, it has undoubtedly worked to its favour. Like an unforgettable earworm, Miu Miu has grown to be at the top of consumers’ minds. The Lyst Index—a quarterly report of the “hottest” brands as tracked by fashion technology company Lyst—sees Miu Miu climbing up a rank, replacing sister brand Prada as the number one brand for the first quarter of 2024. It’s a stark contrast from two years ago when Miu Miu didn’t even make the list’s top 20. The brand only managed to crack the list for the last quarter of 2021 and has remained on it since.

The Lyst Index has grown to be an industry-accepted indicator of a luxury fashion brand’s popularity. The platform boasts at least 200 million users annually and is primarily used to search for fashion items across multiple e-commerce sites. Think of Lyst as the fashion equivalent of Skyscanner. A quick search on Lyst results in a seemingly endless number of, well, listings of the same item available on online stockists ranging from SSENSE to Harrods. This data is part of the information Lyst collects in order to form its quarterly The Lyst Index. Lyst also takes into account searches outside of its own platform as well as social media statistics for a more rounded view of consumer trends.

The reality is that the business of fashion isn’t a bubble contained to just how a product is moving or not. Much of a brand’s popularity is due to a combination of external factors as well. In the case of Miu Miu, its Spring/Summer 2022 collection became a kind of cultural phenomenon owed to its Noughties-inspired aesthetic of branded boxers peeking through the tiniest of bottoms. It became such a hit that the collection graced multiple editorial magazine covers and fashion spreads—the latter at times featured on hyper-masculine male models. For Halloween the year of the collection’s runway show, it became a viral sensation after recreations of the now-signature Miu Miu look made the rounds on social media.

Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno's collections are getting noticed, even if they're not helping revenues yet.
(GUCCI)

Gucci’s ranking on The Lyst Index proves that sales figures don’t exactly maketh a brand’s popularity. The Italian fashion house maintains its 11th position on the list, buoyed by the campaign launch of creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first Ancora collection, his first menswear show in January, a Horsebit campaign featuring actor Kingsley Ben-Adir, and more. Lyst also notes a 10 per cent increase of searches (as compared to the previous quarter) for Gucci accessories among its users following the Autumn/Winter 2024 womenswear runway show in February.

However, financially, the figures tell a different story. Gucci parent company Kering Group reported an 18 per cent decline on Gucci’s revenue for the first quarter of 2024. Its revenue across its direct retail operations as well as its wholesale business both suffered a hit. At the same time, Kering Group proffers that De Sarno’s first collection (dropped from mid-February) “have been very well received, particularly in the ready-to-wear and shoes categories”—although it did not disclose the metric used to come to this conclusion.

The Lyst Index isn’t the only list that has cropped up over the years. Business of Fashion released its second The BoF Brand Magic Index co-created with data insights company Quilt.AI in May 2024. Unlike The Lyst Index’s more trend-driven metrics, The BoF Brand Magic Index identifies and ranks brands based on their impact on customers. It measures this based on three metrics—alignment (how clear a brand is to customers), engagement (how effective a brand is at inspiring customers), and intent (how effective a brand drives customers to search for it). Brands are ranked based on these individual metrics; the combined scores determine their overall ranking with the lowest total at the top. The report covers a six-month period from October 2023 to March 2024.

It’s not surprising that given the differing methodologies used in both reports, the results are different. The BoF Brand Magic Index determines the alignment metric by using Quilt.AI’s proprietary AI models that detects content by both brands and customers, categorising them based on 12 Jungian archetypes, and determine similarities between the two. It’s this consistency between brand and customer content that ranks Dior, Balmain and Tod’s as the top three for alignment—their brand values are being received and replicated by their target audience. Business of Fashion believes that “alignment is a leading indicator of commercial success” in the long-run.

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Take it this way, there is reason why Beyoncé and Taylor Swift are two of the biggest musicians in the world right now. One can argue that the songs are not immediately addictive such that they would be stuck in a person’s head all the time, but the concepts and storytelling surrounding their albums draw people in. It’s this overarching narrative beyond the songs and lyrics that keep people talking and engaged. The same goes for luxury fashion. Fashion has grown to be more than just good, wearable design—how it’s being communicated and marketed play important roles on the success.

This is the reason why brands like Jacquemus and Loewe have constantly managed to be talked about both for their collections as well as the stories built around them. Jacquemus, for example, drives virality with its uniquely shaped products such as a literal Nike Swoosh crossbody bag and impossibly tiny bags that spawned a multitude of memes, while at the same time, working with artists to stir online conversations via eye-catching stunts. An eight-second clip in 2023 of vehicle-sized Jacquemus bags seen driving around Paris was so realistic (it was the work of a 3D artist) that it had people questioning if it was a real-life brand activation, because it felt pretty much in line with what Jacquemus would do.

Loewe’s consistent craft-centric approach to all it does translates exceptionally well on social media where it breaks down the make of an item—all without revealing too much of its in-house secrets—for all to witness. But at the same time, its constant dabble with the art world and surrealism allows it the freedom to not take itself too seriously. The brand has crafted a niche on TikTok where it works with content creators, giving them carte blanche to create content in their own vision. At the same time, its own campaigns aren’t typical product pushes, but instead rely on creative storytelling while embedding the collections into them.

Good design and storytelling are most often related although not necessarily so. As much as there are the Beyoncés and Taylor Swifts of the fashion world, there are the legends—the Mariah Careys, the U2s, and the Stevie Wonders that don’t necessarily partake in the hit-making agenda. Instead, they have built such strong legacies that they don’t have to market as much to be desirable. You’d go to a concert by these legendary musicians clamouring more for their best hits from decades ago than their newer releases. It’s not that the new songs are not great, but rather, the old ones carry such weight and are just so eternally beloved. And these legends were the blueprint of greatness at one point and have influenced generations after.

Hermès, Chanel and even Louis Vuitton are such brands. The latter is constantly on the top 20 of any list because it continues to enact creative change in the contemporary sense, but just like Hermès and Chanel, the Louis Vuitton name is already historically synonymous with luxury that the desirability is always top-of-mind. You don’t necessarily see Hermès and Chanel aiming to create viral content or use marketing gimmicks to draw attention—they’re just simply not on-brand.

There’s undoubtedly a need for fashion brands to be more all-rounded in their approach to create desirability in order to cut through the noise. We are living in a society where access to information is wide and getting hold of our attention increasingly becomes a difficult task as swiping through content after content has come to be almost second nature. The existing fandoms will stay for the new releases but it’s attracting a new audience to listen in and be part of the community that takes real work, especially for more contemporary brands.

Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 menswear.
Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 menswear.
Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 menswear.

Being at the top—whether it’s for the quarter or the half—is how one deciphers the position. Fashion moves at such a fast pace these days (even for luxury fashion) that the rankings can fluctuate quite dramatically. It means little to have a viral accessory or moment that spikes engagement and interest, unless a brand takes the step to develop the narrative further.

At the end of the day, it is consistency in both design and narrative that are key in creating any meaningful impact on a bigger scale and for a longer time. No brand wants to be a one-hit wonder; every brand wants an evergreen discography to bank on for years to come.

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