On the second day of Milan Fashion Week, Onitsuka Tiger is readying to show its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Under the creative direction of Andrea Pompilio—a position that's been held since 2020—the brand has positioned itself as a sporty, fashion-forward brand beyond its signature footwear.
Each collection is often conceptualised around pieces with an edge, whether they're casual or formal-esque silhouettes. There's an inherent streetwear-leaning aspect that also serves to make the pieces easily wearable.
For confirmation of what the Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday live from Milan Fashion Week.
What: Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Wednesday, 18 September 2024 at 11pm Singapore time
There have been plenty of articles attempting to critically analyse Burberry's current strategy—both creatively as well as from a marketing standpoint. It has become a continuously profound struggle for Burberry, a heritage brand that has been experiencing a sort of fall from financial grace for years now, to find that balance between being fashion-forward and desirable.
The Burberry Summer 2025 runway show proved that chief creative officer Daniel Lee has perhaps found that balance after almost two years of steering the brand back to its British roots. Noticeably, there were a few design elements that Lee initiated in his first few collections that he's now seemed to forgo this time around. The Burberry Check is back in its original rendering after seasons of being skewed at an attempt to modernise the motif, while the revived Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) wasn't as prominent.
Lee likens the collection as a continuation of Winter 2024. "An easy elegance that feels inviting for summer. We want the pieces to feel welcoming, and for the wearers to feel confident," he says. Cue the much softer approach in terms of fabrications, treatments as well as colour palette—as though to say that these pieces are indeed wearable and easy enough buy into.
The fit: A lot of the Burberry Summer 2025 collection's focus is on the military aspects of the brand's heritage. It's evident from the overall swathe of pastel, washed out and weathered colourways that Lee's intention was to highlight Burberry's more utilitarian functionality. The collection's outerwear pieces remained key grounding elements and inherently made the collection Burberry. This time, trench coats were reconstructed into asymmetric jackets, a couple of slightly cropped iterations as well as multi-pocket field jacket versions. They were all season-appropriate—crafted in lightweight silk, linen or bonded wool.
The zipped elements from Winter 2024 made a return on the runway. They were featured on a number of zipped trousers styled open at the knees to further accentuate the roominess of the cut. Where pockets weren't adorned with weatherproof flaps, zipped details reinforced utilitarian elements as well as versatile styling proposals.
Overall, the collection excelled at reimagining Burberry house codes without needing to shout with bold graphics or an overuse of branded signatures and motifs. Silhouettes felt easy to wear with chic simplicity apparent throughout the collection. In some cases, perhaps, they were too simple in execution, especially when broken into individual pieces. Together though, the styling felt the most Burberry that Lee has crafted thus far.
The details: A complete overhaul of the bag offerings seemed to be intentional. The collection saw introductions of completely new styles all designed to be unlined and relaxed. The Country comes as a crossbody, bucket bag and tote in grainy leather with the Burberry Check, while the B Clip—named after its b-shaped front fastening—is a new messenger bag, tote and holdall in tumbled leather and suede with the addition of a rather stunning Burberry Check style in patchwork leather.
Three exceptional looks: The super chic opening look styled almost like a regal, royal officer; look 32's classic Burberry Check rendered in a deep hue for a truly utilitarian ensemble; and the timeless silhouette of look 47.
The takeaway: Lee has found a balance between his own leanings and Burberry's Britishness—how open customers will be to adapting remains the brand's challenge.
View the full Burberry Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.
Burberry is the final big-named house on the London Fashion Week calendar and it's poised to bring some newness. Unlike previous runway shows by chief creative officer Daniel Lee, the Burberry Summer 2025 runway show will be staged indoors as opposed to the brand erecting a tent. Lee has also enlisted English artist Gary Hume to design the set of the show.
There's been a consistent Britishness about Lee's creative direction at Burberry—rooting designs on the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) seen above, reimagining Burberry's trench icons, as well as silhouettes that lean on familiar English heritage. It's highly likely that Lee will continue to do so, especially with teasers focusing on "born of function, grounded in heritage". The Burberry check is probably set on making a more prominent design element—but how that will look like remains to be seen.
For confirmation of what the Burberry Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday live from London Fashion Week.
What: Burberry Summer 2025 runway show
Where: London
When: Monday, 16 September 2024 at 11pm Singapore time
New York Fashion Week goes by fast with a number of emerging as well as established brands packing up the schedule this time around. Quintessential American brand Coach—a brand experiencing a resurgence on social media thanks to its latest slate of leather bags—is readying its co-ed Spring 2025 runway show, hoping to capitalise on the moment.
Creative director Stuart Vevers has been at the helm of the brand for more than 10 years now and consistently taps on the spirit of New York City, combining it with the fervour and artistry of its famed inhabitants as well as offering newness for a wide range of audience. It does seem like (and rightly so) that the Spring 2025 collection will be in the same vein as previous collections and perhaps with a slight skater vibe as seen in teasers. What's to definitely look out for though are the leather bags that could potentially spark another uptick in demand in the upcoming season.
For confirmation of what the Coach Spring 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Tuesday live from New York Fashion Week.
What: Coach Spring 2025 runway show
Where: New York City
When: Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 4am Singapore time
Moved by a photo of James Dean at his childhood home and his iconic quote—“I think the prime reason for existence, for living in this world, is discovery”. Chitose Abe weaves a tale of growth and self-discovery in Sacai SS25 Men's Show. Her youthful collection captures the essence of Dean’s early years, as models emerge from a deconstructed home, embodying the spirit of coming age.
While the collection paid homage to the classic 1950s American style from Dean’s era, Abe infused it with that Sacai twist.
(SACAI)
Abe found herself captivated by James Dean’s iconic Harrington jacket from Rebel Without a Cause. This legendary piece of cinema fashion enchanted Abe so much that she couldn't resist incorporating it into the men’s collection. The timeless appeal of Dean's style and the rugged, utilitarian aesthetic of WTAPS—a Japanese streetwear brand renowned for their military-inspired style blended seamlessly, creating a distinctive fusion that paid homage to both classic Hollywood and contemporary streetwear.
Meanwhile, Sacai collaborated with Levi’s, fusing Type I, II, and III jackets with classic denim pants to create a unique hybrid piece. Models, clutching books and sporting glasses, evoke the spirit of academia and youth—discovery in motion. With loafers trending, Sacai added their calling card to the traditional J.M. Weston penny loafers. And just when you thought it couldn't get more exciting, the Zegamadome sneaker was born. Thanks to the cutting-edge collaboration between Nike and the brand.
Sacai unveiled groundbreaking collaborations at every turn, ensuring Abe's zest for revamping remained undiminished on the runway. Hybridisation doesn’t end with Sacai.
Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a statement, a rallying cry wrapped in Damier checks and cosmic prints. Set against the symbolic backdrop of the UNESCO headquarters in Paris, the collection is titled “Le Monde est à Vous” (The World is Yours) and was a high-concept blend of sartorial exploration and cultural commentary. If Williams' previous shows for the Maison tapped into specific countries and cities as points of references, this time, it was a call for global unity and shared responsibility.
Before the models hit the runway, the audience was treated to a short film created in collaboration with Air Afrique, a Pan-African cultural collective. The film featured young “child diplomats” tackling global issues. It was equal parts moving and ambitious, underscoring Louis Vuitton’s evolution into a cultural powerhouse rather than just a luxury label.
At the venue itself, the lower levels of the UNESCO headquarters were transformed into orchestral pits housing both the Voices of Fire choir and L’Orchestre du Pont Neuf. They provided the live soundtrack to the show with upbeat vocal stylings and instrumentation to three original compositions produced by none other than the creative director himself.
The fit: The Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was effectively a love letter to humanity. It kicked off with a muted palette—blacks, browns, and beiges—that hinted at the grounding of shared human experience, before blooming into greens and blues, straight out of a satellite image of Earth. These tones weren’t just aesthetic choices; they underscored the idea of diversity and universal inclusion. Think tailored double-breasted suits, relaxed pajama-inspired sets, and collarless leather jackets paired with Louis Vuitton’s trademark boldness. Pieces like a glossy red PVC anorak and slouchy cargo shorts delivered runway drama without alienating the everyday dresser.
And then there was the printwork. Pharrell introduced a fresh take on the Damier motif with “Damoflage”—a hybrid of camouflage and cartographic designs. Globe-inspired prints appeared on bombers and foulards, turning fashion into a celebration of connectedness.
The details: Soccer ball-shaped bags and tartan luggage nodded to the universal language of travel and sport, while cheeky details like “YOUR NAME” printed on customisable bags added a playful edge. The Air Afrique collaboration continued on in a number of ready-to-wear pieces, scarves, stoles and bags as Damier-infused tartan as well as a co-creation of travel-inspired logos. And much like Williams' interpretation of the iconic Keepall, the collection introduced a Soft Leather Goods line—the Alma, the Christopher and the Neverfull were crafted in super supple leather with aged VVN trimmings and decorated with brown Monogram.
Three exceptional looks: Look 8's chic proposal of a translucent mock-neck paired with jewelled trims; look 39's classic Louis Vuitton aesthetic twisted with softer nuances; and look 72's football-inspired ensemble that has never made football more appealing to any non-fan.
The takeaway: A collection for the jet-set, the dreamers, and everyone in between.
View the full Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
It was a strong start to Milan Fashion Week Men's. Moschino's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show—the first men's show by creative director Adrian Appiolaza—made little effort to hide what the collection was all about. The show set was decorated with towers of a cacophony of luggage and suitcases, and the show invite was essentially an electronic boarding pass.
The obvious kitsch could have come up as rather generic, or worse, predictable. But this is Moschino we're talking about. It was great seeing Appiolaza staying true to the spirit of the brand.
It's clear from the very first look—an Inspector Gadget-esque coordination paired with a heart-shaped briefcase—that Appiolaza intends on keeping Moschino, well, Moschino. Look after look, there was a sense of oddity that was captured in the form of an exaggerated accessory or a truly unfathomable styling of an office worker blue shirt with a sarong. The idea of the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was one of individual expression and exploration, with each look barely having any resemblance to any other in the line-up.
The collection's theme afforded Appiolaza to take reference from cultures around the world. The soundtrack was engineered to echo these adaptations—as an instrumental percussion-heavy song played towards the end, floral garlands (reminiscent of Indian floral garlands or leis) dressed models in a number of ways.
One accessory that definitely was not difficult to miss and probably spoke the loudest was a watermelon clutch. The press notes say nothing of the intent of the specific accessory. It may be a nod to Moschino's watermelon prints and appliqués that the brand has done in the past, revisited and reworked. But given the context of the collection as well as what's happening in the world right now, it's not too farfetched to say that Appiolaza made quite a statement.
The fit: There was hardly anything serious about the collection, other than the fact that the concepts were strong while still remaining wearable in the real world. Deconstruction and reconstruction made way for interesting silhouettes, including a polo tee riddled with multiple collars on the back and front, a white shirt affixed with multiple long sleeves at its hem, and a pinstriped coat paired with a printed white shirt with both looking as though they went through a paper shredder.
The details: The Moschino Love heart ran rampant throughout the collection. Like the aforementioned briefcase, a smaller heart-shaped bag made of wicker came decorated with floral tendrils. It also wouldn't be Moschino without prints and they ran the gamut from artistic still lifes to trompe-l'œil renderings of office-appropriate accessories on blue shirts.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3's functionality pushed to the extreme; the button-riddled suiting of look 12; and the trompe-lœil casualness of look 54.
The takeaway: Fashion hasn't lost its ability to seduce, inspire, not take itself too seriously, while at the same time, express what matters most.
View the full Moschino Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
"The care of style is the care of instinct," reads the introduction of Brunello Cucinelli's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection. The brand stuck close to its Italian craftsmanship and understated style, but adopts a fresher silhouette that speaks to evolving tastes in menswear—because it's only instinctive to continue to change albeit progressively.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is defined by light, breathable fabrics, with a palette grounded in earthy neutrals—warm beige, soft greys, and washed whites—interrupted by summer brights the likes of blues and cherry blossoms.
The fit: Cucinelli’s approach to tailoring this season, while still grounded in the brand’s signature elegance, has brought about slightly loosened silhouettes with soft-shouldered blazers and more relaxed trousers that lend a carefree, easygoing feel. This relaxed approach is in tune with a wider trend toward comfort in menswear, but Cucinelli executed it in a way that felt inherently polished.
While, yes, there's an inherent evolution of the brand's style, that's not to say that Brunello Cucineli has gone rogue. The collection still referenced signature '70s and '80s design details and silhouettes, recontextualising them for the now. There's something to be said about timeless style and elegance and while they may come across as referential or seemingly backward, there's hardly anything wrong with something as classic as a camp collar peeking over a linen blazer.
The details: What looked exceptionally chic (but once again, nothing specifically new) was Brunello Cucinelli's layering of T-shirts and knitwear with blazers. At the presentation in Milan, a number of vintage-looking souvenir T-shirts depicting key tourist attractions around the world added touches of modern flair to its exceptional tailoring. The collection's lookbook further emphasises on knitwear as one of the stars of the collection with thick-ribbed, crew-neck sweaters for more casual finesse.
The takeaway: A fresh yet familiar approach that’s as suited to the evolving landscape of men’s fashion as it is rooted in tradition.
View the full Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The staging of the Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show was as minimal as one would expect of the brand. Tropical foliage were projected on the walls—abstract in the form of shadows but distinct enough that one would understand the collection's theme and seasonality. And much like the staging, the collection was Mr Armani's own way of conceptualising a summer-themed collection without actually sending down a collection teeming with all manner of flora and fauna.
The fit: It's easy to imagine Mr Armani heading on a safari adventure because the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection alludes to the lifestyle, especially in its opening looks. In true Armani form, there's hardly any deviation from the signature Giorgio Armani look—a neutral palette of relaxed silhouettes and a deftly handled balance of formal and sporty. But even in the expected shades of blues, greys, and creams, the materiality stood out. Silky fabrications enhanced the sense of lightness that came through, punctuated by light layers and an unrestricted sense of styling.
The details: Lapel-less blazers make a return on a number of looks—as full suited coordinates as well as broken suits—while a decidedly monochromatic styling was topped with silk scarves and hats. Prints reflected the projections on the walls, decorating silky pieces with coconut trees and palm leaves in contrasting colours that are still part of the Giorgio Armani colour palette.
Three exceptional looks: Look 7's simple ensemble in a metallic sheen; the breezy air of look 54 even with a slightly heavy top; and look 71's statement branding (hardly a Giorgio Armani element) that's refreshing.
The takeaway: There's always a way of creating newness while staying true to one's aesthetic.
View the full Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
In his Tod’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear debut, creative director Matteo Tamburini reminded us that true sophistication lies in craftsmanship, not theatrics. The collection celebrated Tod’s roots in Italian luxury while embracing a sleek, modern edge. Forget ostentation—Tamburini’s vision was grounded, restrained, and brimming with quiet confidence.
The fit: There’s a remarkable balance at play here. Earth tones set the mood, while luxe fabrics steal the show. Tamburini’s light-as-air nappa field jackets and deconstructed suits don’t shout; they nod coolly, capturing an effortless allure. Pashmy suede, as soft as cashmere, took the form of jackets such as the Bomber, the Gio Jacket and the Shirt Jacket, fusing plush elegance with everyday utility. The collection was a seamless blend of luxury and utility that only Tod’s, with its artisanal heritage, could master.
The details: The iconic Gommino loafer is updated in a sleek sabot cut that's equally intriguing—a fresh take on a classic that's just casual enough. The Di Bag was reinterpreted in a sack version in a number of canvas and leather variants that further enhances its versatility and functionality—and perhaps, made even more desirable than before.
The takeaway: By focusing on the timeless rather than the trend-driven, Tamburini’s Tod’s feels refreshingly grounded, yet undeniably modern.
View some of the Tod's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Now in his sixth year at the Maison, artistic director Kim Jones has built a reputation for elevating Dior's menswear, seamlessly blending street style elements with the house's couture history. For the Dior Men Summer 2024 collection, Jones paid tribute to various Dior predecessors and eras, integrating their influences with a contemporary design language. Constantly challenging the notions of tradition and modernity, there's no doubt that the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will be one that brings to the fore forgotten or lesser known elements of Dior's history.
For confirmation of what the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 21 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time
The Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 runway show wasn't an easy one to get to. It's about a half-an-hour drive from the centre of Milan to the industrial space and from the outside, it looked like a blank white canvas. The inside however, Zegna had it converted into a field of linen plants concentrated towards the centre. This became the runway where the models eventually stood along neat emptied out space in the midst of the field.
The linen plants, however, weren't exactly what they appeared to be. Global brand ambassador Leo Wu proved this as I witnessed him cheekily playing with one before plucking it out from its spot. It was a metal rod, varnished into a specific of shade of yellow and gave it quite a naturalistic look. Aside from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection being centred around the brand's traceable Oasi Lino—a concept that's set to continue on every Spring/Summer season—it was also about this idea of how nothing is ever really what it seems. No two things are exactly same for artistic director Alessandro Sartori, even when they looked similar on the runway.
"It is the moment to focus on how items are or can be used, on the singular ways they mould to individual personalities," Sartori says, referencing how it's the right time to expand on the aesthetic that's been crafted and established since Autumn/Winter 2021. It's evident from the fact that the models engaged for the show were as diverse as they come in terms of age, race, and even gender. And while there were some commonalities among some looks in terms of colours or even print, each look was different, brought out even more by the attitude of the model wearing them.
The fit: It's the Zegna that we've all come to adore by Sartori. The tailoring was impeccable with the kind of flow and languid silhouettes that's favoured, but at the same time, cut at the right spots such that none of the models appeared to drown while wearing an oversized polo or a drop-shoulder blazer.
Necklines were reduced further that at times, they didn't require any sort of fastening. It's a subtle tweak but emphasised this hybridisation of formal and relaxed that's become a fundamental Zegna trait. They looked at home worn under the collection's more traditional suiting to create an almost perfectly layered collar effect.
The details: The brand is through and through a ready-to-wear-first brand. At the same time, its Triple Stitch footwear has become such an icon that it may be time to expand that universe a tad further. The runway saw only one footwear adorning the feet of all the models: a new loafer referred to as Mocassin. It's designed with a slightly rounded toe and crafted long and narrow to elongate. True to form, the Mocassin was also minimally designed but again, traipsed that line between formal and relaxed.
Similarly, the brand's bags haven't been much of a focus as a whole, but the capriciousness of the collection's bags definitely drew my attention. For starters, some models (including runway closer, Mads Mikkelsen) carried a different large one on each hand. These were probably some of the biggest bags that Zegna has done in a while and definitely made to be lived in—for just about everything and anything.
Three exceptional looks: The sumptuous and unexpected pairing of deep colours in look 7; the striking printed look 24 that's essentially a shortened pyjama suit; and look 33's stunning tonal combination of yellows with trousers cut to make one look taller.
The takeaway: A truly studied approach to approaching wearable luxury fashion in the contemporary sense.
View the full Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.
Longtime artistic director of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian, has crafted such a signature look for the House's menswear collections that its Spring/Summer 2025 outing will certainly be one to anticipate. Hermès has already teased a look—a knit shirt with a dip-dye effect in a blue that reflects the sea. It does seem as though that could be the reference point for Nichanian's latest collection, or at the very least, just one element of it.
For confirmation of what the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time
I don't think anyone had so much of an inkling as to how the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was going to look like. Creative director Sabato De Sarno left little clues, and the show invite—a set square engraved with "la misura dell'amore è amare senza misura" ("the measure of love is to love without measure")—ultimately didn't really have anything to do with geometry or math. And thank god for that because after a hectic Milan Fashion Week Men's schedule, I'm sure none of us would have wanted a problem to figure out.
To some, however, De Sarno's Gucci aesthetic may be a problem. Some might say that his sophomore menswear collection, while a more vibrant proposal with prints ripe for the season, left little to be desired; that there isn't a strong enough of a point-of-view.
Having a "point-of-view" tends to be thought of as having concepts that are singular—a look so unique and easily identifiable that it will immediately be recognisable as being Gucci. I'd argue that De Sarno doesn't lack one, but rather, it's an aesthetic that isn't targeted to just one archetype.
The setting of the runway show reflected this. The Triennale Milano is a museum of art and design where a diverse range of works are collected and exhibited. I'm not equating the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection to that of works of art (although the oversized shirts decorated completely with paillettes came close) but there seems to be a growing idea of the Gucci wardrobe being able to be collected throughout the season, spliced and then combined to create looks that are part of one's style. Is that enough of a point-of-view?
The fit: It's a the-city-meets-the-beach style narrative consisting of short shorts that would've been perfect for the weather during the show (Paul Mescal made an excellent outfit choice). De Sarno repeated his penchant for oversized tops with shirting left untucked, offering just a peek of the shorts underneath.
Colour-blocking was heavily utilised. In fact, this was a stark difference from the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection—this was colour on steroids almost. Acid hues were paired with vibrant prints of dolphins, surfers, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves.
The details: We do need to talk about the hardware. The Horsebit is set to be an element that De Sarno seems to be planning to drive down our throats. It's apparent on the pointed toe iterations of the Horsebit loafers that he introduced for Autumn/Winter 2024 but this time, expanding the offering with boots. Belts are also given the Horsebit treatment and with a new surprise. What I initially thought were just Horsebit belts from my vantage point were actually a combination of a double-ended snap hook closure (a hardware that has replaced the piston closure in De Sarno's Jackie bags) as well as the d-rings of the Horsebit.
A bag that could potentially be on a lot of people's wishlist would be a new crossbody bag fitted with the snap hook closure. They're slightly reminiscent of the Horsebit 1955 and that's not exactly a bad thing.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's masterful layering of a polo over a shirt; the oversized polo shirt embellished with paillettes in look 26; and look 34's classic with a twist.
The takeaway: Once more (one last time, hopefully), it's a new Gucci that's not quite less is more nor more is more.
View the full Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
