Earlier this January, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show explored the American Western roots of workwear, blending the Maison's craftsmanship with dandy-esque elegance, utility, and comfort. The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection—a core part of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection—reflects the meticulous LVERS ethos guided by creative director Pharrell Williams.
Focusing on the versatility and durability of the refined suits and overdyed jacquards, the capsule collection features reimagined workwear staples in browns, blacks, and beiges. Western-inspired yokes and leather appliqués adorn trucker jackets and coats with sculptural cuts, echoing the American workwear's functional lines. They're complemented by turquoise-like buttons, pearls, embroideries, and studs as a beautiful showcase of the Maison's savoir-faire.
Doubling down on the workwear inspiration, Louis Vuitton introduces the Keepall 50 Toolbox: a utilitarian take on the Maison's iconic bag. Crafted in natural leather with its preserved earthy nuance, the Keepall 50 Toolbox echoes the rugged functionality of American workwear with multiple exterior pockets, rivets, and lined in coated Monogram canvas.
The capsule completes the accessories line-up with an engraved flash and cigarette case reminiscent of the American West, along with a silk scarf paying homage to its key accessories.
The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection by Pharrell Williams is further enhanced by a collaboration with Timberland. Synonymous with workwear, the American brand is a fitting partner to showcase Louis Vuitton's craftsmanship applied to the real-life practicality of its footwear.
The reimagined LV x Timberland 6-inch boot—developed with Timberland and crafted in the Maison's Italian shoe atelier Fiesso d'Artico—is available in two designs. Each iteration features premium Italian nubuck leather, an insulation system, and seam-sealed waterproof construction. The boots are distinguished by their signature rubber lug outsole detailed with LV Monogram embossing (a treatment that's also visible on the underside of the tongue), LV eyelets, and leather tag adornments.
Amplifying the 6-Inch silhouette by 15 per cent is the LV x Timberland Boot. Available in five distinct styles, each features a robust rubber lug outsole. An ankle boot in wheat or black grained leather is adorned with a Monogram-embossed tongue lining and leather tag details; a ranger boot features an extended shaft, lace hooks and strap embellishments; a pull-on mid boot is topped with bag puller accents; and a pull-on harness boot with side buckles and a harness. All of the five styles are available in either wheat or black colourways.
But the most impressive and available in limited-edition quantities of 50, is the LV 6-Inch Exceptional Edition. Designed in collaboration across Louis Vuitton's shoe, jewellery, and hard-sided experts, this unique boot features Classic Monogram premium Italian leather with bespoke rubber lug outsoles for an extra distinctive touch. The boots are also adorned with 18K gold LV tongue initials, eyelets, lace tips, and tag hardware. Engraved on the LV tongue initials is "THE SUN IS SHINING ON US", echoing sentiments from Williams' debut Louis Vuitton show last June. And true to form, this Exceptional Edition is housed in a custom Monogram leather and plexiglass shoebox with VVN trims, as showcased on the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway.
The Men’s Workwear Capsule Collection by Pharrell Williams is now pre-launched online and on the LV app. The capsule collection will be available at the Louis Vuitton Marina Bay Sands Island Maison from 8 August 2024.
One of the coldest rappers in the game, Terrence LeVarr Thornton, aka Pusha T, has just been named as the new House Ambassador for Louis Vuitton. Pusha T is no stranger to high end fashion, having sported some of the coolest, most original fits over his long career, whether on stage, in music videos, or caught by the paparazzi, so it makes sense that LV’s creative director, Pharrell Williams, would appoint his old buddy and longtime musical collaborator as the new face of the iconic fashion house.
With their latest collection at Paris Fashion Week clearly inspired by The Wild West, it will be interesting to see what Pusha T ‘s own fashion aspirations bring to the table.
Pusha T’s new role highlights Louis Vuitton’s vision of fusing fashion with other stratospheric creative industries, bringing powerful storytelling to the realm of menswear. And if you needed a reminder of how well Pharrell and Pusha work together, refresh your memory with their 2002 classic below.
Originally published on Esquire ME
ESQUIRE: When I think about your collaboration with Tiffany & Co., the first thing that comes to mind is the heart-shaped sunglasses that Alexandre Arnault posted on Instagram. You revealed those sunglasses last June saying, “You would know that I’m engaged to Tiffany. This is just the start of the many things we’ll be doing together.”
PHARRELL WILLIAMS: Those sunglasses are special. Generally, jewellery and accessories are must-have items in my style. That’s why I really enjoyed the process of working on that project. Thanks to the love those sunglasses got, we were more excited to release Tiffany’s new Titan collection. I’m close friends with Alexandre Arnault. So, getting the opportunity to create the Titan collection with Tiffany was an honour, and I’m thankful for it.
ESQ: What did you want to express with the designs at Tiffany, and was there anyone or any incident that inspired that?
PW: I’m very inspired by water. The design of this collection and the name “Titan” were inspired by Poseidon, who is the king of Atlantis (a fictional city under the sea) and the ruler of the sea. “Atlantis” is also the name of an area in Virginia Beach where I grew up. Also, titanium was named after “Titan”, and you can call it “titan” for short. It is also a name that emphasises our use of black titanium, which we used in this collection to physically embody the beauty of the colour black.
ESQ: I think it was a great idea to pair yellow gold with black titanium, and it felt fresh to me.
PW: [The reason for that was] because it is different from tradition, and something unheard of. We wanted to make something beautiful yet different at the same time with this collection.
ESQ: You’ve even mentioned that “jewellery is the punctuation mark of a person”.
PW: Jewellery makes a person. We even remember a person by their jewellery. I can never forget the ring that Slick Rick wore a long time ago. I remember trying to look for the same ring he wore.
ESQ: There was a dinner party hosted in New York to mark the launch of Tiffany’s Titan collection. Please tell us more details about that party.
PW: I was really happy that my friends and family came and supported me. That was the first time I saw other people wearing pieces from this collection. I was able to give life to this collection while working very closely with Tiffany’s in-house design team, and it’s such an honour to lead Tiffany into a new generation. It was at the New York flagship store (which looks down into Central Park). Launching the collection there made it feel like everyone came back and got together in their hometown.
ESQ: There was a Tiffany Wonder party in Tokyo recently.
PW: Firstly, I love Tokyo. It’s one of the cities I love, and the food is amazing. It was great to be able to celebrate 187 years of Tiffany in Tokyo.
ESQ: How would you describe the style of this collection in one word? And tell us why.
PW: People. That’s because everything I create is for the people. It doesn’t matter what your gender, race, ethnic group, or anything else are. I hope people of different classes can wear this collection.
ESQ: I recently checked out your collection “Son of a Pharaoh” which you put up for auction on the auction site JOOPITER, which was launched a few years ago. Everything was great, but the BBC Varsity Jacket was especially interesting. It was an item that expressed a politically correct message in a very cool way.
PW: I really love that jacket. Women are our future. I think it’s important to use one’s art or platform to spread love and talk about injustices. Ultimately, it’s because we are all people. I’ll also be launching a very interesting auction on JOOPITER this coming autumn during Frieze Seoul. I don’t want to say much about it now, but I’ll be revealing more details soon, so look out for it.
ESQ: You’ve been active for over 30 years. How have you been able to stay on the front lines of trends for such a long time?
PW: That’s an interesting point. It’s because I’ve never put in much effort into trying to stay afloat of the trends. I just do what I think is right. I’m also lucky to have worked with interesting people from designers to artists, musicians, and all sorts of other geniuses. I’m learning from them every day.
ESQ: I’m curious as to how you would differentiate something good from something bad.
PW: We can never know what is good, or what people can relate to. You just have to feel that it’s right. Whenever I’m creating something original, or whenever I’m pushing myself to do something that nobody else has done before, that’s when I create "something good". Nobody might like what I created, but we have to be prepared for that!
ESQ: Have you ever thought about how you make that distinction? For example, when I asked you earlier “What is good?”, you could either prioritise your personal preference when doing music or fashion, or you could consider the preference of the consumer.
PW: I try to look through the consumer’s point of view as much as I can, because I’m also a consumer. I think about how I can make it practical, or how the final piece can improve my life or help me live a better life. That’s the criteria I use when making decisions.
ESQ: What do you ultimately consider to be “good”?
PW: “Good” is such an interesting word. Why do we not say “great”? But at the same time, there isn’t a singular definition of “good”. Something might be “good” but might not change your life. Or “good” could be just a feeling. But if you don’t have true passion or sincerity, or if you’re trying hard to get “something good” without knowing why you’re doing it, then that attempt will fail. What sets you apart from others is what makes you special.
ESQ: What does creativity mean to a creative director?
PW: I have three roles. The first is to be a student, the second is to share the code, and most importantly, the third is to help others. Every season, we have to start from the beginning and expand the codes, which are the elegant tailoring, comfort, resortwear vibe, the basics, and of course the dandy. At the head of it, my role is to give energy (to the people I’m working with). But if I’m not able to create something charming, none of these have any meaning. I speak through my vision and through the amazing talents at our Maison.
ESQ: In a previous interview with Vogue, you described a creative director as a “love movement” and someone who “commands 2,500 soldiers”. I know that The Love Movement is also your favourite album by A Tribe Called Quest, but to be honest, I don’t understand that figure of speech.
PW: “Love Movement” or “LVers” for short was inspired by the slogan of my hometown Virginia, which goes “Virginia is for Lovers”. The work that our team at the Maison and I do is one part of the strong “LVers” community that we created, and at the same time it’s for the community. The reason I likened it to commanding solders, is because I lead 55 departments and 2,500 skilled artisans at our Maison. It means that my role in this place is to lead and direct. Our work has to be in harmony, and my role is to make sure everyone moves as one. And the basis of all our work is love.
ESQ: How did the slogan “Virginia is for Lovers” come about?
PW: I think it started from an ad or a billboard inviting people to come to Virginia for their honeymoon. But the slogan is true. There are all types of love in Virginia. It’s full of communities and families everywhere.
ESQ: Hearing that reminds me of the Princess Anne High School Varsity Jacket that you put up for auction. It’s clear that it’s an important piece that explains your identity.
PW: Princess Anne High School is the name of the high school I went to in Virginia Beach! I really love that place, and it’s a place that has a lot of good memories. Coming from Virginia is very important to me and to who I am now. Whenever I have the chance to show that Virginia holds a special place in my heart either by representing or mentioning the place, I’ll take it. Creating the Princess Anne High School jacket was a tribute to my hometown.
ESQ: For someone who has only lived in Korea, it’s hard to picture Virginia as clearly as I can picture New York or LA. What kind of place is it?
PW: It’s a really cool place, and it’s my pride. People might underrate us, but you cannot find the history or the culture we have in Virginia state anywhere else! I love being close to the water and get a lot of inspiration from water. Being close to the water helps me feel safe.
ESQ: You really love Virginia. What about making Pharrell’s Virginia, just like Donald Glover’s Atlanta series?
PW: That’s an interesting thought. But I’m not sure if Virginians would want a show created about them. If you want to watch a cool programme about Virginia or want to hear about the lives of people in Virginia, there is a documentary series called Voices of Fire about Virginia’s choir group with the same name. It’s amazing how much talent they have. The choir is led by my uncle Bishop Ezekiel Williams, who is an inspiration to many people, and you can catch it on Netflix.
ESQ: As someone who loves honky-tonk, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 show was very impressive. I’m curious about the reason why you interpreted Western American outfits in the collection.
PW: I wanted to reference my personal journey from my hometown of Virginia to Paris. I also wanted to tell the story of Western America, which is also the origin of workwear. Workwear evolved from denim which the first cowboys wore. I wanted to tell the story about this inherent history and express the origin and evolution. The story is told as is in the code of this collection. I’m very proud of that collection. From the buckles to the engravings, we didn’t miss a single detail. Simply put, we elevated every element you can think of up a notch.
ESQ: Will you consider interpreting American kung fu culture from the '70s and '80s in future works? I think it would suit you well.
PW: Kung fu and martial arts in general are very interesting. It’s a sport that requires a lot of strength, agility and patience. It’s almost like dancing. This sport is a type of art. It’s something I could consider!
ESQ: What do you think is your greatest asset right now?
PW: I will forever be a student. I love learning from others, and I get inspired by others every day.
ESQ: It’s interesting that you said “student”. What kind of student are you?
PW: I’m a student who observes well and asks a lot of questions. I want to know what happened here and there. I’m curious about how something I’m seeing is being made and why it’s made. We need to keep having curiosity. It’s the best way to learn about ourselves and the world around us.
ESQ: Is there a personal treasure that you’ll never put up for auction no matter what?
PW: There are so many! You mentioned the Tiffany heart-shaped sunglasses at the beginning of this interview. I will never put that up for auction, because it marked the beginning of my beautiful relationship with Tiffany.
Photography: Hyea W. Kang
Fashion Editor: Yun Wonghee
Styling: Matthew Henson
Grooming: Johnny “Cake” Castellanos at H.Q.E
Tailor: Alice Chastel Mazin
Production: Bae Woori
Art Designer: Kim Daesup
Styling Assistant: Marine Gabaut
Translation: Astrid Ja’afarino
Animation: Joan Tai
Now that Milan Fashion Week Men's is done, we're heading to Paris where Louis Vuitton will kick things off with its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show by Pharrell Williams. This will be Williams' third menswear show, and with the previous two taking references from cultures and experiences around the world, his latest offering may perhaps take on a similar slant. But perhaps, as "Le monde est à vous" is what the show is being called—literally "the world is yours"—it may be even bigger than before.
For confirmation of what the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Wednesday, 19 June 2024 at 2.30am Singapore time
Pharrell Williams is renowned as a visionary whose creativity transcends music, art, and fashion, solidifying his global cultural icon status over two decades. His boundary-breaking efforts across diverse realms underscore the level of innovation, pioneering spirit, and entrepreneurship he embodies.
Given Williams' stature and influence, it's unsurprising that he has a track record of collaborations with other fashion houses under LVMH and beyond. Notably, he showcased a pair of custom Tiffany & Co. sunglasses while attending Kenzo's Autumn/Winter 2022 runway show. Crafted from 18k gold and embellished with 61 diamonds totalling 25 carats, along with two emerald-cut emeralds, the sunglasses unknowingly became a teaser to Williams' partnership with Tiffany & Co..
An official collaboration between Tiffany & Co. and Williams became inevitable. The Tiffany Titan Collection by Pharrell Williams showcases a remarkable fusion of ancient mythos and modern aesthetics, symbolising vitality, strength, and unwavering resolve.
“I’m very inspired by water, and the name of this collection “Titan” draws inspiration from Poseidon, ruler of the sea, King of Atlantis—“Atlantis” which is also the name of the community I grew up in Virginia Beach. The detail in all of the jewellery pieces is very intentional, the use of black titanium…it’s a physical manifestation of beauty in blackness,” explains Williams.
Featuring 19 unique styles—12 in recycled 18k yellow gold and seven in titanium—this collection comprises of an array of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. Each design harmoniously merges luxury with creativity, encouraging wearers to confidently express themselves.
The pieces adopt the structure of the trident with its angular spear-shaped motif. A symbol of unconstrained individualism, the motif is juxtaposed by a uniquely shaped link that juxtaposes the sharpness of the spear, portraying a dialogue between tensions, proportions and balance.
The pavé pieces are set with fishtail and reverse-set diamonds, strategically placed to catch light from all angles so that the brilliance of every facet is amplified. Meanwhile, titanium accents undergo a molecular process, resulting in a striking deep black hue that enhances the yellow gold features of a range of pieces for a more graphic proposal.
The attention to detail is undoubtedly meticulous. The clasps on the necklaces and bracelets seamlessly integrate with the trident motif for a flawless, uninterrupted look. Adding a dynamic touch, the pendants, earrings, and rings boast rotating elements designed to move with the wearer—another example of Tiffany & Co.'s unexpected inventiveness, much like its collaborator's.
Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams will be available this May exclusively on Tiffany.com in the US and at The Landmark in New York City. The collection will be available globally at Tiffany & Co. stores and Tiffany.com in June.
Pharrell Williams and Tyler, the Creator share a longstanding collaboration in the music industry, with many of Tyler’s songs produced by Williams. They also feature in each other’s tracks, including Williams' 2022 single “Cash In Cash Out” and Tyler’s “IFHY” from his 2013 album Wolf. The close friends are in constant creative dialogues and thrive on it. Taking it to a new level, the Louis Vuitton men’s creative director delivers a new capsule collection created in collaboration with Tyler.
This isn't Tyler's first brush with Louis Vuitton having most recently composed the soundtrack for the Maison's Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear show. The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men’s Capsule Collection by Tyler, The Creator is a melodic combination of the visual vocabularies of Tyler and the Maison, especially the one that Williams has established—it's preppy meets dandy with a whole lot of fresh interpretations of both.
The collection features pieces that Tyler would personally wear. “I dress the same in a meeting as I do a performance or grocery store trip, so hand drawing the monogram felt like the perfect balance to me,” he says. Dubbed the "Craggy Monogram", his hand drawn monogram comes in chocolate, vanilla and pastel shades. In addition to the usual LV symbols and 4-petalled LV Flowers, the Craggy Monogram incorporates representations of daisies and Airedale Terriers—familiar motifs from the visual universe of the artist. The uneven shapes of the hand drawn Monogram are echoed in lines and details throughout the collection, from chocolate down jackets to vanilla windbreakers, denim jackets with matching denim pants and denim dungarees, along with accessories.
Known as the guy who turns up to awards shows in shorts, Tyler’s collection just had to include them. Classic shorts and chinos with pleats and fold-ups appear alongside dandy-esque shirts adorned with graphics. With his penchant for pastels, the collection also features baby blue cable knit jumpers with a craggy V-neck and cuff stripes, and a pink fair-isle vest. As a nod to Tyler's obsession of luggages, a special-edition Courrier Lozine 110 trunk featuring the Craggy Monogram was created for the collection.
Tyler's authenticity shines through his recurring playful motifs in the collection’s accessories ranging from flower-studded rings to a Craggy Monogram cereal bowl with a matching spoon. The collection also features a chess set with its chess pieces portraying melted chocolate, hand-sketched by Tyler himself. This is also, unsurprisingly, the rapper’s favourite item from the collection. “I wanted to mix my style and Louis Vuitton’s codes together in a way that felt slightly whimsical but could still be worn to the gas station on a Tuesday,” he explains.
Needless to say, Williams is a fan of the collection: “This collaboration is unique to Louis Vuitton because it’s a natural extension of our LVERS philosophy, building on our network of incredible artists and creatives. There are so many elements specific to Tyler built into these pieces and it’s been inspiring to see him hone in on his craft and collaborate with him for this spring collection."
The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men’s Capsule Collection by Tyler, The Creator is now available in boutiques and online.
While writing this review, "Good People" by Mumford & Sons and Pharrell Williams is playing on Spotify. Ever since the song was played as part of Louis Vuitton's Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show soundtrack, it's been stuck in my head ever since. A stirring rhythm made perfect by Mumford & Sons' signature musicality, it was one of four original songs Williams worked together with other musicians to amplify the mood of the show. "Good People" is the only one that has been released on streaming platforms.
Lest we forget, multi-hyphenate Williams has had an accomplished music career for decades now. As a producer, he was responsible for some of the greatest, most addictive hits—from Usher's "U Don't Have to Call" to Camila Cabello's "Havana". Williams knows that the music is just as important as the collection walking down the runway. "Good People"'s country-esque undertones and marching beat felt rousing as models walked fast in the makeshift showspace right next to Fondation Louis Vuitton.
And just like how he'd collaborated with a number of artists for the soundtrack, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 collection was also an amalgamation of many different cultures and aspects of his home state of Virginia. The overarching Americana-themed collection saw plenty of cowboy-inspired looks with American Western motifs and silhouettes running rampant throughout. They were added with touches by both the Dakota and Lakota nations—not only in the accessories, but also the staging of the show and soundtrack.
The collaborations didn't stop there. The runway show debuted a collaboration with American brand Timberland. Some of the work boots were housed within clear plexiglass and Monogram canvas Louis Vuitton trunks carried by models like prized possessions—these are set to be limited editions. There were a few iterations of the Timberland x Louis Vuitton collaborations and they're crafted by the team at Louis Vuitton's Italian ateliers.
The role of a creative director is more than just about designing. It's about bringing together multiple ideas, streamlining them, at times editing them, and ensuring that everything feels cohesive. Williams has had decades of practice albeit not as long within the fashion realm, but the man clearly knows his stuff. And this third outing with the maison proves it.
The fit: Part-cowboy and part-American workwear, the entire Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection were essentially reworked updates on classic American Western tropes. Tailoring—a segment that Williams has excelled in with Louis Vuitton—made use of boot-cuts and flares with a bodice that was proportionally slim. When they were not rendered in variations of the camouflage Monogram, they were decorated with fine embellishments and at times, Dakota flower motifs in stunning placements.
While some looks may border on the side of being a tad too costume-y, the entire collection felt more like contemporary reimaginings of American Western clichés designed to be wearable and elevated. Cowboy buckle belts for example, were branded with Vuitton in the maison's signature scripts with other versions displaying a more craft-centric approach. And the styling too was quite enjoyable to see as these classic tropes came together in all their warm, dessert-like hues.
The details: It'd be remiss of me to talk about a Louis Vuitton collection without mentioning the bags. The classic Steamer was reintroduced in three sizes, including a massive 65-cm silhouette that was hard to miss out on as it made its way down the runway. The massive Steamer could easily fit a cabin-sized luggage inside of it. There were Speedy affixed with gems and others designed in new forms, including a studded saddle version.
What caught my eyes the most were the worn out treatment of the Monogram canvas. Rendered to look as though the bags themselves have been baked in the sun for a long time, creating a beautiful light patina along the sides.
Three exceptional looks: Look 13's play on the flamboyant nuances of American Western ensembles, with a flared trim around the torso; everything about look 28 from the all-white suit with abstract prints and contrasted with that bold, in-your-face Speedy; and the closing look of a leather Monogram suiting crafted to perfection.
The takeaway: Louis Vuitton may have indeed found the right person to continue to evolve Louis Vuitton into more than just a luxury fashion brand.
View the full Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
After two show-stopping shows in succession—a debut on one of Paris' famous brides and a takeover of a Hong Kong landmark—creative director Pharrell Williams is readying his third outing for Louis Vuitton.
As one would imagine, details are somewhat scant at the moment. All that we know thus far is the location of the show in Paris (it's still under embargo but we know) and the teaser of Virginia being a point of reference. Williams was born in Virginia Beach, Virginia and it's clear that he'd probably include inspirations from his home state or even perhaps memories from his childhood. How that will eventually pan out, is anybody's guess.
But after a debut that saw such a strong support from the Black entertainment community—Beyoncé and Rihanna at the same event—we're left guessing how Williams is going to top the theatrics this time around. And most importantly, what new, reimagined Louis Vuitton icons will be presented.
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Wednesday, 17 January 2024 at 3am Singapore time
Beyoncé and Jay-Z were not in attendance at the Louis Vuitton Pre-Autumn 2024 menswear show in Hong Kong as rumoured—nor were Zendaya. There was also no post-runway performance as what we saw during Pharrell Williams' debut show during Paris Fashion Week Men's. But that didn't mean that there was any lack of a "show".
Apart from the occasion being a milestone first for both Louis Vuitton and Williams—it was the first Louis Vuitton show to be held in Hong Kong and its first menswear pre-collection to be staged ever as well as being William's first pre-collection outing—quite a lot was at stake. Williams' debut (as all debuts go) served as an introductory teaser to his vision for the maison. The Louis Vuitton Pre-Autumn 2024 menswear collection was an opportunity to drive down those ideas even further, especially in a more commercial setting.
Less we forget, the pre-collections are conceptually commercial fillers to the main seasonal collections. And by commercial, I mean more accessible (fashion-wise) to the average consumer who perhaps isn't looking to purchase an embellished suit or a head-to-toe Monogram fit. Williams appeared to achieve just that with his 64-strong showcase that, while noticeably pared back as compared to his Spring/Summer 2024 debut, offered a number of more extravagant pieces that tied back to his overarching vision for the maison.
Staged on the Avenue of Stars in view of Hong Kong's cityscape, Louis Vuitton recreated a beach complete with sand and floor-screens that displayed continuous waves of water meeting the "shoreline". Williams took reference from surf culture as well as nautical influences that all point to the moon as an element that binds them all together.
The runway show ended with a parade led by Williams himself. But not before a drone-filled sky took on shapes that alluded to the show's narrative of LVers travelling from Hawaii to Hong Kong—show-stopping enough to gather everyone's attention.
The fit: The Louis Vuitton Pre-Autumn 2024 menswear collection was teeming with surf and nautical references. At its very literal, sailor motifs—flap collars, berets, and Dixie cup hats—were prevalent as running elements throughout. These were then amplified with Hawaiian prints reimagined as a new take of the maison's Monogram motif, appearing on bags, accessories, tailoring, and of course, Hawaiian shirts.
What's quickly becoming key for Williams' Louis Vuitton menswear is tailoring—a surprising approach given his streetwear leanings similar to that of the late Virgil Abloh. While there were a number of streetwear-inspired separates ranging from oversized shirting to mixed-material outerwear, the collection consisted of a heavy emphasis on tailoring. Suits were aplenty and came in a number of iterations and embellishments, and were all finished with mother of pearl buttons. When they're not paired with signature-Williams berms, suit trousers were flared for a decidedly stylish touch.
The most labour-intensive creation came in the form of the closing look's spectacular bomber jacket. Crafted from denim, the entire piece was covered with crystals and pearls depicting Poseidon, fish, florals and water—a nod to the lakes and fisherman of Williams' hometown of Virginia.
The details: Bags and accessories heavily leaned on the nautical spirit of the collection. The most literal were leather charms that took on the forms of sea creatures and were fixed on the collection's bags. The new Surfing Monogram—that combination of Hawaiian prints and the LV Monogram—appeared in four different colourways on a number of pieces including Williams' new iteration of the emblematic Keepall bag.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9's clever update to a striped coordinate that's interpreted with pearl embellishments (including a mini LV charm interspersed throughout); the burnt orange ensemble of look 40 that's decorated with floral appliqués and topped with a woven beret; and the all-denim look 57 cleverly styled with a simple hint of a surfer-inspired charm.
The takeaway: Williams knows what's he's doing with Louis Vuitton, no doubt about it.
View the full Louis Vuitton Pre-Autumn 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Louis Vuitton men's creative director Pharrell Williams certainly knows how to make waves. After a show-stopping debut during June's Paris Fashion Week Men's, Williams is bringing the maison's Pre-Autumn 2024 collection to Hong Kong.
The staging of a Louis Vuitton menswear pre-collection runway show has never been done before. The maison typically opts for a lookbook release (pre-collections tend to be more commercial in aesthetic as compared to main runway collections) instead of making it an event like what its womenswear division does. There's no denying that with Williams' debut garnering the kind of reach brands clamour for—Louis Vuitton reported over one billion views across its owned platforms as well as its press accounts—the maison is hoping to replicate a similar moment once again.
The Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Autumn 2024 runway show will also mark the first time that the maison stages a show in Hong Kong. The show will see the takeover of the famed Avenue of Stars as well as the neighbouring K11 MUSEA—both iconic landmarks of the city.
What could the collection look like? Well, that remains to be seen. But if the teaser is anything to go by, we're expecting to see semblances of cruise-appropriate designs interspersed with Williams' inimitable sense of style. Or perhaps sailor-esque fits embellished with pearls.
What: Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Autumn 2024 runway show
Where: Hong Kong
When: Thursday, 30 November 2023 at 8pm Singapore time
Loïc Prigent, the famous French fashion journalist and documentary maker, is a constant figure at just about every fashion show, capturing moments and people, and narrating every highlight in his unmistakable French-accented voice. He’s now lending his vocals to Louis Vuitton’s debut podcast series Louis Vuitton [Extended] where he brings listeners through various facets of the maison’s universe.
“Art and culture—these two words in their broadest sense are the real things at Louis Vuitton,” Prigent pronounces as an introduction to the podcast’s first episode. The entire premise of Louis Vuitton [Extended] is to serve as a new vehicle for telling the story of the maison—from its expansive repertoire of fashion to the many events held on an international scale. The key elements of the series are interviews with creative minds behind the maison, the likes of creative director of women’s collections Nicolas Ghesquière, master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud and artistic director of watches and jewellery Francesca Amfitheatrof, will appear in upcoming episodes. And with Louis Vuitton known for its many collaborative endeavours across every aspect of its business, you can expect appearances by a host of personalities from artists and designers to athletes and chefs.
Louis Vuitton [Extended] begins with Pharrell Williams, the maison’s newest men’s creative director. In the 26-minute episode, Pharrell and Prigent are joined by Bishop Ezekiel Williams—Pharrell’s uncle, who helms the Voices on Fire choir that provided a soaring end to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear runway show this past June—as they talked about the conceptualisation of the show, creativity and family. The episode is interspersed with moments that Prigent had captured of the show, adding context for listeners who haven’t yet watched it. We are struck by how atmospheric and incredibly intimate it is at the same time.
That Louis Vuitton is venturing into podcast is anything but out of left field. The storied maison takes storytelling seriously. If anyone needs convincing, just take a gander into its incredibly detailed collection notes as well as the many published tomes that cover both in-house stories and travel itineraries.
There is no telling how long the podcast series will go on. But for now, Louis Vuitton [Extended] is scheduled to drop new episodes on a bimonthly basis with each spanning between 20 and 40 minutes.
And quite honestly, who better to host a series on one of the most famous French brands than a characteristically French man?
Louis Vuitton [Extended] is available on all audio streaming platforms.
There were no shortage of celebrities—hailed from all over the world—at the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear runway show. For the first time at the maison, the creative direction of its menswear universe has been handed over to a celebrity too: the multi-hyphenate Pharrell Williams. His star power drew entertainment heavyweights the likes of Beyoncé and husband Jay-Z, expecting couple Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Singapore's very own JJ Lin, K-pop stars Jackson Wang and BamBam, and more.
Williams delivered a show. Set right on the Pont Neuf, the backdrop was LVMH chief Bernard Arnault's very own slice of Paris—the area on the right bank where the Louis Vuitton studios, department store La Samaritaine, and Cheval Blanc Paris are all situated next to each other and owned by the French conglomerate. Guests sat flanking the entirety of the runway as gospel choir Voices of Fire and an orchestra provided the show's soundtrack.
In many ways, it was reminiscent of the late Virgil Abloh's live runway shows. More than just about the clothes and accessories, Abloh's were moments that intertwined music, art and culture with fashion—Williams did the same. The inclusion of familiar non-model faces in the runway line-up such as fashion designers Stefano Pilati and Dao Yi Chow (amongst other notable personalities outside of fashion) too added to the sense of community and openness beyond traditional fashion elites.
Intentional or not, it did seem as though Williams was paying homage to Abloh in the show's set. The runway was lined in gold, recalling Abloh's first runway show for the maison where he reimagined a yellow brick road. Abloh's tenure at Louis Vuitton was of course, monumentally successful, and if anything, Williams' debut could look to be following the same path.
The fit: There's a decidedly workwear approach peppered throughout the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear collection. Denim coordinates in various treatments and washes—mostly featuring signature Louis Vuitton motifs—were some of the more classic pieces that I could see being perennial pieces season after season. Hardier, almost military-inspired elements were also apparent as they were juxtaposed against tailored options.
The Damier was Williams' key focus, highlighting the house signature rather aggressively. His very own interpretation is the Damoflage—a combination of the camouflage print with the Damier. Rendered in three different colourways, the Damoflage was featured across ready-to-wear and accessories with the traditional camouflage reinterpreted as pixels merging with the Damier. On the more classic front, the Damier was also reimagined in primary colours as previewed by the Rihanna-fronted campaign released prior to the show.
Quite surprisingly, the collection didn't lean heavily into streetwear. Tailoring remained a sizeable bulk of the line-up ranging from oversized cuts in classic fabrications to those embellished with LV charms.
The details: Williams brought out the pearls as trims on tracksuits and a slew of accessories. Reminiscent of the custom Tiffany & Co. glasses that he's often spotted wearing (including for the show), some of the sunglasses featured a mohawk-like arrangement around the frame. Segments of bag straps and chains were also taken over by pearls, and a selection of pearl necklaces as well as brooches added that extra quintessential Williams stamp.
What was quite interesting was Williams' take on the Louis Vuitton teddy bear. First designed by former creative director Marc Jacobs—who also first brought Williams into the Louis Vuitton fold—Williams covered it entirely in Damoflage. And as an extension of the reference, shearling slippers were designed with soles resembling bear paws.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9 for anyone wanting to emulate Williams' style; look 50's all-denim ensemble that could be worn for dressier occasions; and look 69's tailoring-focused look tastefully accessorised with dandy pearls.
The takeaway: It's Louis Vuitton as Williams would wear it. In other words: irreverent and relevant.
View the full Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
