When we caught up with our former cover star and Saint Laurent brand ambassador TEN—naturally at the Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show in Paris last week—it was as though no time had passed since our last interaction. Ever so cheerful, the K-pop idol opted for a shaggy, tousled hairstyle (a look we've rarely seen from TEN) paired with the chic stylings of the House's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection.

It's winter in Paris, and the light drizzle that greeted guests did little to warm things up. But in the light of the glow of chandeliers that were the centrepiece of the show's circular runway space, things were heating up in anticipation of the show. TEN, however, showed no signs of sweating as he glided around to take photos against the set, mingled with fellow guests, and filmed video greetings for fans.

TEN's fit to the show was what you'd expect of a celebrity of his stature and multifaceted nature. It's proven that he's a style chameleon, able to weave in and out of different aesthetics rather effortlessly and knocking them out of the park each and every time. But of course, away from the glaring lights and camera flashes, his fashion sense is more relaxed yet still effortlessly chic.

Before he readied himself for the show, TEN invited us to his hotel room to show a more day-to-day version of himself. What's in his Saint Laurent bag, you ask? A multitude of things to get him through every day—at least while in wintry Paris. View the full video below and you may discover how he maintains his camera-ready appearance.

Videography: Pun Pun

It was very fair to assume that Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello would thread along the lines of the aesthetic that he's refined for the House for a couple of years now. Sleek, almost '80s-inspired classic elegance has permeated the collections of late—a more confident and singular take of Saint Laurent's heritage than when he first took over as creative director. And it did seem as though Vaccarello was about to present a Winter 2025 menswear collection that was just that; the dramatic, couture-like staging of the Bourse de Commerce certainly alluded to it.

But it was clear from the very first look that Vaccarello had no intention of being predictable, and dare we say, bland.

The fit: Aside from the impeccable tailoring that Yves Saint Laurent is known for, the late founder is had a habit of creating a sort of tension in his creations. There was always a twist to the mundane that was either felt or seen. It's this juxtaposition that became Vaccarello's starting point for the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection.

The now-signature Saint Laurent tailoring—strong shoulders, roomy and languid—was paired with knee-high leather boots that sat somewhere between horse-riding boots and leather-kink. From where I was seated, the boots were kept rather minimal, with simple construction lines creating a promising roomy (and comfortable) fit and a buckle to keep things secure right at the top.

(SAINT LAURENT)

There's no question that it's a jarring proposal, but that's the point. In the collection's more British-leaning looks with Prince of Wales checks, however, they're less peculiar—take it as a gentleman who rides a horse to the office or just someone who'd rather not get his trousers muddied and wet. And when the boots were worn over leather trousers in some looks, there's a seamlessness that's quite beautiful to look at.

The details: Vaccarello is a master at creating contrasts with the slightest tweak. For this collection, it was the upturned cuffs that became a styling leitmotif throughout almost every look. It's typically a style that I'm not exactly fond of, but in this instance, it worked to balance out the juxtaposition with the boots and gave the tailoring a tad bit of a rakish, casual air.

Three exceptional looks: The black double-breasted suiting in look 3 paired with the collection's knee-high boots that further emphasises on the strong shoulders; look 17's poppy combination that's just effortlessly cool; and the aristocratic flair of the closing look perfect for a winning red carpet fit.

The takeaway: When it comes to style, keeping everyone on their toes to expect the unexpected does it sometimes; a little bit of juxtaposition always keeps things interesting.

View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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(HERMÈS)

Hermès is always being talked about, especially of late. That's not a bad thing of course; as they say, any publicity is good publicity. Perhaps, that's why the Maison saw the need to increase the capacity of its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show at 9 Place d'Iena. A PR rep told me that the seating configuration was different this time around so that they could accommodate more people—a good sign that there's increasing interest in Hermès.

It did seem as though artistic director Véronique Nichanian felt the need to widen the appeal of her menswear creations for the Maison. The Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was perhaps one of the safest collections by Nichanian in the last few years. But don't get me wrong, it's not bad. It's just that we're used to seeing Nichanian be more experimental with her menswear vision that a pared back, almost classic collection was a stark contrast to her previous work.

Having said that, there was still plenty to discover. It's not a collection that one would immediately strike as distinct or in industry speak, "editorial". No; this was a collection you'd have to touch, feel and understand a bit more intimately in order to appreciate the craft and thought behind it.

The fit: Sticking to her penchant for oversized outerwear and tops, Nichanian slightly extended the lengths of jackets, rebelling from the current fervour for cropped everything. More traditional tailoring was also brought back, cut slim and worn with equally slim ties, while an array of outerwear took on familiar forms but rendered in leather and technical fabrications. A particular treatment employed on a number of coats and jackets appeared like textured patent leather on the runway, but was actually coated fabric.

The colour palette was classic Hermès with a heavy usage of earth tones for the season. The more colourful pieces in the collection were knitwear with motifs inspired by the uniforms of jockeys. But at the same time, the colours used were complementary and served to break away from the monotony.

The details: Instantly, my eyes were drawn to the clever styling of a scarf turned into a double-tour necklace. This was done quite simply by sliding the scarf into a number of Hermès rings (you could pretty much do this on your own with any just about any ring) and then securing it with a knot. Quite a neat style hack, in my opinion.

As an example of the Maison's savoir-faire beyond fashion, a number of outerwear incorporated blankets as part of their design. These blanket liners could be removed when needed but attaching them functioned to add much needed warmth. They're also finished with blanket stitching for a beautiful contrast.

On the bags front, the Haut à courroies got an update with a detachable addition that slides onto the bag's front hardware for added external pockets. And aligning with the Hermès theme of the year—Drawn to craft—a number of iterations featured a completely hardware-free version replaced with a clever connect-the-dots motif.

Three exceptional looks: Look 3 that'll be the perfect outfit for next winter; the blanket-stitching savoir-faire in look 17; and the cool elegance and simplicity of look 44.

The takeaway: While social media debates over the Birkin versus the Wirkin, Hermès proves that its signature style and elegance can't be replicated for cheap.

View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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(DIOR MEN)

After the Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show, artistic director Kim Jones received the Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur—France's highest civilian honour. It's a rarity for someone outside of France to receive the honour, but given Jones' six-year tenure modernising and recontextualising house codes and archives, it does seem fitting. Anna Wintour presented the award to Jones, while wearing a piece from the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection.

Wintour was also present front row at the show. I was seated at the other side of the sprawling runway show space, across from her. There was nothing particularly special about her presence at the show; Wintour isn't a stranger to the Dior Men runway shows. But with the persistent rumours of creative directorship changes, one does wonder if it all points to some sliver of truth to them.

It didn't help to that there was a sort of sombre element to the show's musical choice. "Time Lapse" by Michael Nyman provided some energy to the elegance of the collection but also underscored a sense of melancholy.

But all that to say, the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection was easily one of Jones' best, especially in the past couple of years. Jones took it back to Monsieur Dior after seasons of referencing the works of past Dior creative directors, drawing focus on the graphic and angular Ligne H collection.

The fit: While the collection referenced Monsieur Dior's Ligne H collection, Jones took the opportunity to expand the idea to include other signatures by Monsieur Dior. The opera coat from the Pondichéry collection of 1948, for example, was reimagined in two different versions—one in pure black, and another embellished pink iteration that closed the show. Jones slipped through time periods recontextualising and merging them with more modern silhouettes, all while envisioning a gender-fluid casanova—taking the idea of a "ladies' man" quite literally.

Right from the first look, a play of volumes was apparent. From cinched waists of a number of the opera coats to more voluminous structured creations that were left as is, there was a brilliant display of fabric manipulation and couture-level constructions.

(DIOR MEN)

Save for the couture embroidery techniques employed, there was hardly any other Dior motif present. There was no Oblique, no Cannage or anything that resembled any form of signature or branding. The only such element was a Christian Dior Paris label that were placed front and centre on a number of pieces. This collection was all about the cut, silhouette and make of each piece. Sublime.

The details: One of the standout design details was the folded, draped collars that were seen on both precious fabrics as well as leather. Without constructing a "proper" collar or lapel, collars were formed just from manipulating the material and skilfully draping it to create a seamless appearance of a collar. It was incredibly breathtaking to witness up close at the re-see the next day.

(DIOR MEN)

The couture bow was used as a clever leitmotif throughout the collection. On some ready-to-wear pieces, they were removable accents on the back of blazers as well as sleeve covers on jackets. There were, of course, the Dior-branded bows that were worn as masks. The bows were also translated as satin bow caps on the collection's footwear, and will sure to be the most sought-after piece in the entire collection.

Three exceptional looks: Look 9's pink bow-sleeved jacket that I'm calling "couture coquette"; the delicious and supple leather top in look 20; and the drama of the skirt-trouser combo with the offbeat pairing of an embroidered striped shirt in look 46.

The takeaway: Jones's appointment to Dior Men may have been partly due to his affinity for and ability to interweave streetwear into luxury fashion, but the truth it, he's a fashion engineer capable to making a brand relevant.

View the full Dior Men Winter 2025 collection in the gallery below.

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In a way, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway show was somewhat of a déjà vu. Nigo—founder of A Bathing Ape, and artistic director of Kenzo—has collaborated with Louis Vuitton before during the late Virgil Abloh's time with the Maison in 2020. It was so successful that it spawned another drop the year after.

This new iteration of a Nigo collaboration with Louis Vuitton felt a bit different.

As a whole, it was more of a dialogue between two friends and creatives. While Nigo's first collaboration with Louis Vuitton felt like he was given free rein to do whatever that he wanted, the Autumn/Winter 2025 version saw a more deliberate approach for a creative volley. There's a distinct Pharrell Williams-look to the entire collection—marked by relaxed suiting, workwear-tailoring pairings, and embellishments—that were then peppered with Nigo-isms the likes of Japanese-inspired treatments and fabrications with a whole load of denim.

What's interesting to note was the more restraint use of loud logos. Sure, there were still plenty of Damier motifs going around in a number of permutations—Williams is big on making the Damier his era-defining signature—everything else was kept more pared back; the collection is easily Williams' most wearable one yet.

Another Williams trope is the show's soundtrack that he produces each time (how does he find the time to do all that, I want to know). This time around, a couple of K-pop's finest each had a hand in hyping up the atmosphere of the runway show. BTS' j-hope—who was, expectedly, mobbed by just about every editor in attendance—contributed to "LV Bag" together with Don Toliver, while SEVENTEEN's "Bad Influence" seemed to be a crowd favourite.

The show ended with Williams and Nigo making their way around the circular show space. And as they passed grey lightboxes (there were a total of 24 of them) positioned at intervals on the runway, each lit up to reveal its contents. The lightboxes contained archive collections belonging to the Maison, personal collections of Nigo and Williams, as well as those by personal collectors. The pieces are now open for bidding on Williams' digital-only auction platform Joopiter.

The fit: Unlike previous collections by Williams, the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was conceptualised around more familiar menswear staples. There was little deviation from the tried-and-tested, with less gimmicks and a more concerted effort to focus on craft and tailoring. This in turn provided the perfect canvas for the Japanese craft techniques and motifs employed to shine through even more. Shippo-weaving was incorporated into the Maison's flower emblem to create a encircled diamond stitched pattern, while kasuri-weaving was used in tailoring jacquard and silk-wool outerwear.

There's a stylistic flair in the way that tailored pieces are paired with workwear-inspired separates. Old-school dandy codes are mixed in with a sense of functionality that's not only pleasing to the eye, but also sensible in today's context.

(LOUIS VUITTON)

The details: I did say that the collection is a bit more pared back in terms of logos, but that doesn't mean that both Nigo and Williams skimped on the details. For one, the embellished denim in look 38 was beautifully executed as an interpretation of the Maison's flower emblem. There was also a nod to the iconic 2021 collaboration with Stephen Sprouse but instead of the just splashing "Louis Vuitton" in highlighter hues, this new interpretation was done in black and white and incorporated words such as "LVERS", "TOKYO" and more in both French and Japanese.

The wave-like effect that Nigo first conceptualised for the 2020 collaboration with Louis Vuitton made a return, but this time, skewed vertically and consisting of a patchwork of the Maison's motifs. And for those crazed over the bag charm trend, there plenty on the runway, including a leather charm shaped like a lobster claw.

(LOUIS VUITTON)

To commemorate the collection's collaborative nature, a number of pieces across ready-to-wear and accessories feature the graphic renderings of both Nigo's and William's heads—perfect for anyone who's a stalwart fan of both figures.

Three exceptional looks: Look 18's mishmash of Louis Vuitton motifs that somehow looked very well put together; the aforementioned look 38; and look 66's broken embroidery look that's stunning upclose.

The takeaway: A collaboration is only as good as the dialogue that went into it; this was good.

View the full Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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If there's one thing that's certain during Paris Fashion Week Men's, is that artistic director Kim Jones will dig deep into Dior's archives for a contemporary reimagining of the spirit of Christian Dior. The Dior Men Winter 2025 collection will certainly be all that and perhaps, more.

There's already a clear teasing of this from the physical invitations sent out. As per Dior Men custom, the invite came packed with a zipped folio—this time around, it's plain black with a classic Christian Dior tag in leather. The invitation card features a lily of the valley motif that's become synonymous with the House. If there's a prediction to be made, it does look like Jones could be presenting a very pared back collection focused on silhouette and make, with some couture elements thrown into the mix.

For confirmation of what the Dior Men Winter 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Dior Men Winter 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 24 January 2025 at 10pm Singapore time

Saturday during Paris Fashion Week Men's is Hermès day.

Longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian is taking a slightly different approach this season, switching up the runway show format once again. While show attendees will be watching the show live in Paris at 3pm (10pm Singapore time), the show film will only be screened a couple of hours later. A little bit of a delayed gratification, if you will.

Nichanian has cemented Hermès' menswear look for decades now—founded on classic staples designed with clean lines and an occasional nuance of playfulness. Based on the teasers, she's most likely sticking to a relatively modern, oversized silhouette with hues that's already synonymous with the Hermès menswear universe. What surprises will Nichanian include throughout the collection? That, we will have to wait and discover.

For confirmation of what the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Sunday, 26 January 2025 at 12am Singapore time

Demna is readying the the Summer 2025 collection for Balenciaga in a couple of days in Paris. And as with his previous shows and collections, we won't exactly know what to expect from the creative director who continues to spark conversations about his curious creations—from a bracelet made to look like masking tape to shoes loaded with towering soles.

For confirmation of what the Balenciaga Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Tuesday live from Paris Fashion Week.

What: Balenciaga Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Tuesday, 1 October 2024 at 1am Singapore time

Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a statement, a rallying cry wrapped in Damier checks and cosmic prints. Set against the symbolic backdrop of the UNESCO headquarters in Paris, the collection is titled “Le Monde est à Vous” (The World is Yours) and was a high-concept blend of sartorial exploration and cultural commentary. If Williams' previous shows for the Maison tapped into specific countries and cities as points of references, this time, it was a call for global unity and shared responsibility.

Before the models hit the runway, the audience was treated to a short film created in collaboration with Air Afrique, a Pan-African cultural collective. The film featured young “child diplomats” tackling global issues. It was equal parts moving and ambitious, underscoring Louis Vuitton’s evolution into a cultural powerhouse rather than just a luxury label.

At the venue itself, the lower levels of the UNESCO headquarters were transformed into orchestral pits housing both the Voices of Fire choir and L’Orchestre du Pont Neuf. They provided the live soundtrack to the show with upbeat vocal stylings and instrumentation to three original compositions produced by none other than the creative director himself.

The fit: The Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was effectively a love letter to humanity. It kicked off with a muted palette—blacks, browns, and beiges—that hinted at the grounding of shared human experience, before blooming into greens and blues, straight out of a satellite image of Earth. These tones weren’t just aesthetic choices; they underscored the idea of diversity and universal inclusion. Think tailored double-breasted suits, relaxed pajama-inspired sets, and collarless leather jackets paired with Louis Vuitton’s trademark boldness. Pieces like a glossy red PVC anorak and slouchy cargo shorts delivered runway drama without alienating the everyday dresser.

And then there was the printwork. Pharrell introduced a fresh take on the Damier motif with “Damoflage”—a hybrid of camouflage and cartographic designs. Globe-inspired prints appeared on bombers and foulards, turning fashion into a celebration of connectedness.

The details: Soccer ball-shaped bags and tartan luggage nodded to the universal language of travel and sport, while cheeky details like “YOUR NAME” printed on customisable bags added a playful edge. The Air Afrique collaboration continued on in a number of ready-to-wear pieces, scarves, stoles and bags as Damier-infused tartan as well as a co-creation of travel-inspired logos. And much like Williams' interpretation of the iconic Keepall, the collection introduced a Soft Leather Goods line—the Alma, the Christopher and the Neverfull were crafted in super supple leather with aged VVN trimmings and decorated with brown Monogram.

Three exceptional looks: Look 8's chic proposal of a translucent mock-neck paired with jewelled trims; look 39's classic Louis Vuitton aesthetic twisted with softer nuances; and look 72's football-inspired ensemble that has never made football more appealing to any non-fan.

The takeaway: A collection for the jet-set, the dreamers, and everyone in between.

View the full Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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The Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 runway show wasn't an easy one to get to. It's about a half-an-hour drive from the centre of Milan to the industrial space and from the outside, it looked like a blank white canvas. The inside however, Zegna had it converted into a field of linen plants concentrated towards the centre. This became the runway where the models eventually stood along neat emptied out space in the midst of the field.

The linen plants, however, weren't exactly what they appeared to be. Global brand ambassador Leo Wu proved this as I witnessed him cheekily playing with one before plucking it out from its spot. It was a metal rod, varnished into a specific of shade of yellow and gave it quite a naturalistic look. Aside from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection being centred around the brand's traceable Oasi Lino—a concept that's set to continue on every Spring/Summer season—it was also about this idea of how nothing is ever really what it seems. No two things are exactly same for artistic director Alessandro Sartori, even when they looked similar on the runway.

"It is the moment to focus on how items are or can be used, on the singular ways they mould to individual personalities," Sartori says, referencing how it's the right time to expand on the aesthetic that's been crafted and established since Autumn/Winter 2021. It's evident from the fact that the models engaged for the show were as diverse as they come in terms of age, race, and even gender. And while there were some commonalities among some looks in terms of colours or even print, each look was different, brought out even more by the attitude of the model wearing them.

The fit: It's the Zegna that we've all come to adore by Sartori. The tailoring was impeccable with the kind of flow and languid silhouettes that's favoured, but at the same time, cut at the right spots such that none of the models appeared to drown while wearing an oversized polo or a drop-shoulder blazer.

Necklines were reduced further that at times, they didn't require any sort of fastening. It's a subtle tweak but emphasised this hybridisation of formal and relaxed that's become a fundamental Zegna trait. They looked at home worn under the collection's more traditional suiting to create an almost perfectly layered collar effect.

The details: The brand is through and through a ready-to-wear-first brand. At the same time, its Triple Stitch footwear has become such an icon that it may be time to expand that universe a tad further. The runway saw only one footwear adorning the feet of all the models: a new loafer referred to as Mocassin. It's designed with a slightly rounded toe and crafted long and narrow to elongate. True to form, the Mocassin was also minimally designed but again, traipsed that line between formal and relaxed.

Similarly, the brand's bags haven't been much of a focus as a whole, but the capriciousness of the collection's bags definitely drew my attention. For starters, some models (including runway closer, Mads Mikkelsen) carried a different large one on each hand. These were probably some of the biggest bags that Zegna has done in a while and definitely made to be lived in—for just about everything and anything.

Three exceptional looks: The sumptuous and unexpected pairing of deep colours in look 7; the striking printed look 24 that's essentially a shortened pyjama suit; and look 33's stunning tonal combination of yellows with trousers cut to make one look taller.

The takeaway: A truly studied approach to approaching wearable luxury fashion in the contemporary sense.

View the full Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.

Longtime artistic director of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian, has crafted such a signature look for the House's menswear collections that its Spring/Summer 2025 outing will certainly be one to anticipate. Hermès has already teased a look—a knit shirt with a dip-dye effect in a blue that reflects the sea. It does seem as though that could be the reference point for Nichanian's latest collection, or at the very least, just one element of it.

For confirmation of what the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Saturday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Saturday, 22 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time

Now that Milan Fashion Week Men's is done, we're heading to Paris where Louis Vuitton will kick things off with its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show by Pharrell Williams. This will be Williams' third menswear show, and with the previous two taking references from cultures and experiences around the world, his latest offering may perhaps take on a similar slant. But perhaps, as "Le monde est à vous" is what the show is being called—literally "the world is yours"—it may be even bigger than before.

For confirmation of what the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.

What: Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Wednesday, 19 June 2024 at 2.30am Singapore time

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