As a young stylist, I had always considered flying off to the fashion capitals for fashion weeks to be one of the pinnacles of my career. I had exalted it as a rite of passage—if I were to attend either London, Milan or Paris Fashion Week, it would mean that I’d made it.
I wasn’t naive to think that being invited to fashion shows would be all glamour. Fashion editorial life is (unfortunately) unlike what’s portrayed in the oft-referenced The Devil Wears Prada or even Robert Altman’s Ready to Wear. I was already reporting on the runway collections remotely, basing my reviews off of what I could see from livestreams as well as information from press releases. But I knew that being on the ground meant that my evenings would be spent doing the same with the added pressure of doing so after spending an entire day commuting from one show to the other.
The biggest draw for me was to be able to witness the show firsthand and actually see and feel the collections up close, months before everyone else does. It adds to the reporting and critique of a show. Watching them through a screen has its limits. Sure, one technically gets a much better view of each look as it walks down the runway thanks to steady camerawork, but a fashion show is much more than each individual look. The atmosphere—the music, audience and the scale of a set—completes the narrative that a designer is trying to communicate. And this, as much as technology has changed so much over the years, is a sensorial experience that falls short digitally.
To say that I was excited for my first official fashion week experience would be an understatement. At the same time, I was anxious. I’ve navigated Milan and Paris on my own before, but I’ve never had to rush for back-to-back appointments and shows during one of the cities’ busiest period of the year. Timing is everything and it’s not because I was afraid of getting to a show late (it’s fashion, hardly anything starts on the dot)—I was afraid of missing out a celebrity.
We’re all aware by now that celebrity culture is at an all-time high. Almost no big-named brand event is complete without the appearance of a number of celebrities, some of whom are official brand ambassadors. Brands—be it jewellery, watch or fashion—have been busy racking up top-tier Western, Korean and Thai faces in the past couple of years as brand ambassadors, all to give embodiment to their brand values while simultaneously attract the following that each celebrity commands.
It was a cold January in Milan. The Autumn/Winter 2024 Milan Fashion Week Men’s was the beginning of my two-week-long, non-stop fashion immersion. The Gucci menswear show was my first stop. It was creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear collection for the House and I was in anticipation. I arrived half-an-hour early to the venue to find that I was not early enough. Not only was there already a sizeable crowd formed across the road behind a row of metal barriers, editors of publications based in Thailand, Hong Kong, Korea and my Singaporean counterparts were all flanking an imagined walkway right before the entrance to the main show area.
I managed to squeeze myself in, joining the rather civil queue of Asian press as we all waited for celebrity arrivals. Brands would typically provide a list of confirmed front-row attendees so we could single out those we’d want to approach for doorstop interviews or at the very least, film their arrival for social media. I went in completely blind for Gucci so I was rather awestruck by the sight of Idris Elba, Mark Ronson, Elliot Page and Jay Park. And when people I personally admire and follow such as male model Clément Chabernaud and musician Tamino walked in, the inner fanboy was very much in overdrive. The job comes first, however, and my phone kept trailing each of them from the moment they enter the space.
Yes, I am a glorified paparazzo.
No one stops to give soundbites as they enter a venue. It’s within the show set that the opportunities arise if you’re able to battle your way through the hordes of other press aiming for the very same. The Gucci show was my warmup. I didn’t get any save for a very muffled and quick hello by Elba, which wasn’t usable.
I learnt a thing or two from a very kind fellow celebrity-chaser. He introduced himself as we shared a mutual connection. He told me he is based in Paris but covers celebrity sightings for a publication in Singapore during fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. Having done it for at least six seasons now, the man has become a force to be reckoned with. He knew where to stand and wait for the perfect, clear view and seemingly had zero qualms about intruding the personal space of a celebrity. As an introvert, I was the exact opposite at the start but observed and went on to adopt a similar level of brazenness.
It was the only way that I was able to secure coveted soundbites from Korean actor and brand ambassador Lee Min-ho, Marvel’s Winston Duke, and latest brand ambassador Greg Hsu at Fendi. Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was full of A-list celebrities—possibly one of the best curations out of the shows in Milan—and I was able to create content featuring Lee Jae-wook, Troye Sivan, Manu Ríos, Luther Ford, and Win Metawin. Lee was even kind enough to rerecord his once I discovered that the audio was off in the original and suffered a fleeting panic attack from it. At Loewe, I even managed to approach Saltburn’s Archie Madekwe for an additional soundbite to tease his then-unreleased February 2024 cover of Esquire Singapore.
“Did you get all the content you need?” a brand communications personnel asked as I was exiting a venue. It was a question I’d hear time and again throughout the two weeks. They were all trying to ensure I had the necessary recordings for Instagram reels that would reach as many people as possible. And if not, they’d assist in securing a celebrity’s time if possible.
I’m not going to lie. There were moments in the evening after a day’s series of shows where I felt semblances of an existential crisis. I would rather speak to creative directors such as Miuccia Prada, Jonathan Anderson, Kim Jones and the like to find out more about their thought processes behind the collections. I had questions after seeing every show but it wasn’t humanly possible to split my time. In the battle for social media views and engagement, creative directors, very unfortunately, don’t garner the same level of attention than even a wink by Korean actor Jung Hae-in.
“In the past, the editors’ biggest concern was getting captured by street style photographers,” a counterpart proffered as we were waiting for celebrities to slowly stream in at a show. The “past” was only about five years ago. And while I don’t necessarily agree with the sentiment (I’ve worked under editors who consciously dress to impress during fashion week while delivering elaborate collection reviews post-shows), I understand the manic evolution of fashion media. It’s no longer enough to deliver content at dizzying speed; content has to be relevant and with a guise of exclusivity.
Will this bubble ever burst? I don’t have the answer to that. But as along as there is a desire for content featuring celebrities that bring in social media engagements and estimated media values in the millions (at the very least), the fashion industry will be sticking to this formula.
The Spring/Summer 2025 Milan and Paris Fashion Week Men’s shows are coming up in a couple of months. And I’m ready, with my iPhone, my small Bluetooth enabled microphone and Esquire Singapore placard going: “Hi! I’m Asri, style director of Esquire Singapore. May I get you to say hello to our readers?”
If I had to pick a clear standout from Milan for the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear season (with a smattering of menswear in between), it would have to go to Bottega Veneta.
Creative director Matthieu Blazy has managed to create such a niche look for the Italian brand in terms of its ready-to-wear offerings—without the need for overt branding or the use of a singular colour—more than any of his predecessors have done before. The bags and accessories, of course, continue to utilise Bottega Veneta's signature Intrecciato techniques (as they should) but Blazy's emphasis on craft and techniques has offered a distinct point-of-view that has made his ready-to-wear pieces identifiable as Bottega Veneta creations.
"There is a need to reconnect to a primal world of animals, minerals, and plants. It’s like collecting seashells—beautiful, meaningful or meaningless. It’s linked to the beauty of small marvels and natural wonders. It’s embracing something freeform: these are clothes without codes," Blazy says in the collection notes.
For the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection, Blazy once again took us on a journey—one that crossed oceans and continents. Craft was the central connecting thread as culture-specific influences the world over were referenced and mashed together to create pieces that were (mostly) wearable and imbued with extreme technicalities. Yes, this meant that visually, the collection may not have appeared cohesive due to the many different techniques, colours and silhouettes that were employed throughout. The cohesiveness came through conceptually with summer- and beach-inspired ideas of craft apparent in a number of looks.
The fit: There's no singular look to the Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 collection. It was a transition of different moments in time and space—as though Blazy meant to showcase the Bottega Veneta man as one who's worldly and of many different leanings. The show opened with a knit swimwear look that looked as though it was stripped from the '20s (and perhaps one of the few menswear looks that felt wearable for the warmer climes). Although it's difficult to decipher accurately based on images and the runway video alone, I'm fairly certain that Blazy showed a number of his brilliant leather trompe l'œil looks where seemingly everyday pieces were actually crafted from leathers, and paired with leather ties.
What's technically impressive were the knit looks this season. Blazy had shown off a number of knit looks in the past few collections but they seemed to be amped up for Summer 2024 with even more flourishes and done in greater scale. Chunky jumpers and tanks were beautiful, crafted to perfection in complicated patterns but without a homespun quality. These were intended to look high-quality and luxurious—done by hand, yes, but with the precision of skilled, experienced craftsmen.
The details: Things got bigger in the bags department. The Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 bags were supersized such that they'd make pretty decent travelling companions. A massive duffle bag in croc (look 7) was half the size of the model that carried it, while the Sardines in Intrecciato took on their biggest iteration yet with the metallic handle offering an even better grip thanks to the upsized design.
Three exceptional looks: Look 11 and its deliciously chunky knit that enveloped almost the entirety of the ensemble under it; look 53's coordinated look consisting of a shirt and trousers with faggoting and jagged hems; and look 41's updated proposal of a tank-and-trouser fit.
The takeaway: I don't know who's rich enough to purchase Bottega Veneta ready-to-wear, but you'd definitely recognise the look right off the bat.
View the full Bottega Veneta Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
Versace is typically not one to quickly hop onto trends or care much about the shifts in consumer tastes. It marches to its own beat—coming up with a new-ish monogram, La Greca, only in 2021 (well after other brands) but relatively sticking to its signature Barocco prints, Medusa logo, and sexually charged designs.
It's surprising then that for Spring/Summer 2024, Donatella Versace decided to do a 180 with a collection that's representative of a return to minimalism—or that often misused phrase, "quiet luxury"—but done the Versace way. To be fair, this wasn't the first instance of Donatella going rogue with a rather minimalist collection. This is, however, perhaps her most successful execution yet.
The fit: The show opened with luxurious duchess silks adorned with the Versace Contrasto Checkerboard—a pattern that debuted in Spring/Summer 1982—in varying sizes and later paired with utilitarian pieces the likes of a perfectly cut trench and multi-pocketed gilet. They were simply teasers of what's to come: a skilful combination of tailoring and Versace motifs rendered in pastel hues.
The checked and square motifs continued on in multiple fabrications including wool crepe tweed. In some instances, checkerboard prints were layered with signature Barocco prints as well as a Versace Rose motif but in quite muted monochromatic renderings such that they weren't fighting for attention.
The focus on cut and tailoring were evident for the Versace Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Lines were sharp and clean with nipped in waists and three-dimensional sculptural shoulder moments that elevated the level of craft and construction further. In look 69 (the most minimal menswear look of the lot) for example, an impeccably tailored jacket with flared trousers showcased the peak of Versace tailoring but at the same time exuded a timeless aesthetic. It's highly edited and pared back, yes; yet the Versace man still exudes a sexy confidence.
The details: There's no denying that there were semblances of Miu Miu and Prada stylings—it's difficult to not reference the of-the-moment combinations, especially when taking on a minimalist approach. But again, Donatella made them her own. The peeking of underwear under trousers, scoop-neck tanks and fine gauge knit cardigans (both interpreted with gorgeous macramé Barocco borders) were reworked codes of Versace sensuality.
There were hints of a feminine-masculine tension that skewed in neither direction yet showed that the Versace man wouldn't be fazed even if it did. He's that confident.
Three exceptional looks: Look 12's maroon leather suit that's a stunning showcase of leather tailoring; the pastel blue mod-tailoring in look 23 with that clever styling of unbuttoning the last few buttons to show a hint of skin and underwear; and look 73's excellent tailoring.
The takeaway: This is how you do timeless, elegant minimalism while evolving house codes without looking like the next Zara collection.
View the full Versace Spring/Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
