In the design world, Milan Design Week is a big one. The annual extravaganza is celebrated by design enthusiasts worldwide across the bustling streets of Milan, where creativity meets commerce. Last month I found myself in the middle of a curious blend of genuine innovation and shallow spectacle.
One of the most glaring trends was the pervasive use of fashion brand names to lend an air of legitimacy to the event. It seemed as though every corner boasted the presence of renowned product designer associated with high-profile fashion label, however, upon closer inspection, there seemed little intent to showcase a genuine dedication to the world of product design, and more about feeding the increasingly growing PR stunt machine.
This year’s victims were the design icons Le Corbusier (with Bottega Veneta) and Gio Ponti (with Saint Laurent), where the designs lacked depth and failed to resonate beyond their surface glamour. It felt like a commodification of design, where brand names overshadowed true creativity and innovation.
Furthermore, the proliferation of installations designed solely for Instagram-worthy moments was hard to ignore. Everywhere I turned, there were displays carefully curated to appeal to the lens of a smartphone camera rather than to engage with the essence of design. These installations were visually captivating, no doubt, but they lacked substance. They were hollow, devoid of any meaningful message or artistic merit beyond their superficial aesthetics. It was disheartening to witness the prioritisation of fleeting moments of social media validation over genuine artistic expression.
Such is the pull of Milan Design Week, the streets of the city were packed as ever with people eager to experience its spectacle. Yet, amid the crowds (and endless queues) I couldn’t shake the feeling of emptiness that pervaded many of the exhibitions. People queued for hours just to catch a glimpse of something that promised to be visually appealing, only to find themselves confronted with installations that offered little beyond their initial allure. It was a stark reminder of the superficial nature of our modern obsession with image and spectacle.
There were, however, pockets of genuine brilliance that shone through. Design Space AlUla, for instance, stood out as a beacon of authenticity amid the chaos. Drawing nearly 20,000 visitors, they were treated to a curated collection of design creations and prototypes, alongside immersive installations dedicated to raw materials. It was a celebration of craftsmanship and creativity, offering a refreshing departure from the glitz and glamour that often defines Milan Design Week.
Similarly, Hermès delivered a masterful showcase that placed materials at the heart of the exhibition and discourse. Its presentation was a testament to the timeless beauty of craftsmanship and the enduring power of materiality in design, reminding us of the importance of substance over style.
My tastes aside, Milan Design Week has become a microcosm of the contemporary design landscape, where superficiality often masquerades as innovation and spectacle reigns supreme. While there is no denying the visual splendour of the event, it is imperative that we look beyond the surface and seek out moments of genuine creativity and authenticity. It is in these moments that the true essence of design resides, here’s hoping we can continue to strive to prioritise substance over style and authenticity over spectacle.
Originally published on Esquire ME
Given the increasingly intertwined realms of fashion and design, it's expected that major fashion labels continue to expand their design repertoire into furniture during Milan Design Week. As the world's largest furniture fair, the event showcases the latest in furniture and design, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors annually. Below, we take a closer look at a number of furniture collections and collaborations by fashion brands that were released and showcased during the week.
Titled the "MCM Wearable Casa Collection", the collection by MCM was created in collaboration with Atelier Biagetti and curated by Maria Cristina Didero. This was the MCM's first time taking part in Milan Design Week, yet the collection effortlessly showcased its authenticity. MCM is known for its rebellious spirit, and this collection reimagines the role of furniture through unconventional designs that fit into the avant-garde. The collection brings the audience out of this world with its portable and multifunctional pieces in thought-provoking designs.
Longchamp held an exhibition at its boutique on Via della Spiga from 15 to 21 April, spotlighting on studio högl borowski—headed by Viennese design duo Stefanie Högl and Matthias Borowski. Through the their careful selection of materials used, unique sensory experiences are constantly being explored. Ranging from furniture to sculptural objects, studio högl borowski’s innovative pieces create new dialogues between fashion, art and design. Borowski’s fascination for craftsmanship, shapes and proportions and Högl’s love for colour, materiality and telling stories often lead to their unique compositions in designs.
Saint Laurent Rive Droite teamed up with the Gio Ponti Archives, Ginori 1735 and the Fundación Anala y Armando Planchart to exhibit the Villa Planchart Segnaposto Plates collection. Originally designed by Gio Ponti, the collection is decorated with various symbols of the villa of Anala and Amando Planchart. These traditionally crafted decorative porcelain plates are painted by hand in Ginori 1735’s Italian Manifattura. The Gio Ponti-Villa Planchart exhibition was held during Milan Design Week at the Chiostri di San Simpliciano. The limited-edition plates are now available for sale online as well as at the Saint Laurent Rive Droite boutiques in Los Angeles and Paris.
Versace opened their doors to their original Milan home and design Atelier at Palazzo Versace, Via Gesù 12, to showcase the latest Versace Home collection. The collection's designs prominently feature iconic symbols like the Medusa, Barocco, and Greca, exuding luxury in true Versace style. Visitors immersed themselves in the rich history of Palazzo Versace through an audio experience titled "Versace Home: If These Walls Could Talk". It narrated stories of the Palazzo's significance in fashion and culture, including the historic Fendace fashion show that saw the coming together of Fendi and Versace.
Bottega Veneta collaborated with Cassina and Fondation Le Corbusier to present On the Rocks at Palazzo San Fedele, focusing on the LC14 Tabouret Cabanon. Le Corbusier originally designed the Tabouret for his cabin, and took inspiration from a washed-up whiskey box. It features masterful dovetail joints and oblong openings. The exhibition showcased custom editions of the Tabouret, including a new limited-edition tribute in signature Bottega Veneta's Intrecciato. The wooden editions feature a traditional Japanese charred-wood technique, providing natural protection to the wood while revealing the unique patterns of the wood grain. On the Rocks also offered a glimpse into Palazzo San Fedele, that's soon to become Bottega Veneta's headquarters.
Hermès presented a captivating blend of contemporary home collections with iconic heritage designs, showcasing their enduring commitment to craftsmanship and excellence. Inspired by vibrant jockey silk jersey motifs, leather goods and intricately crafted blankets in subtle shades take centrestage alongside luxurious cashmere bedspreads featuring intricate patterns. The new Diapason d’Hermès lounge chair in leather and hammered aluminium, along with ethereal lamps inspired by equestrian vaulting, reflected Hermès' innovative design approach. The showcase epitomises Hermès' spirit of merging artistic excellence with impeccable craftsmanship, creating timeless pieces imbued with sophistication and style.
Giorgio Armani reopened the doors of Palazzo Orsini, the brand's historic headquarters, to present the new Armani/Casa collection entitled "Echi dal mondo" ("Echoes from the World"). Each room in Palazzo Orsini corresponded to a geographical area that inspired Armani throughout his career, identifiable by nods to different aesthetics and fashion cultures. Inspired by atmospheres, colours and shapes encountered during Armani’s travels or research, the collection is presented in settings never been seen before, offering an intimate experience. It was seamlessly integrated with Armani’s personal memories and travel mementos, weaving a narrative that celebrated creativity, craftsmanship and diverse cultural influences.
Loewe engaged 24 different artists to create a new collection of lamps as part of its Milan Design Week effort titled, "Loewe Lamps". Utilising a wide range of mediums, the collection centres around the manipulation of light. The floor, table, and suspended lamps—presented in the Palazzo Citterio—were materialised using bamboo, paper, leather, and glass into innovative forms inspired by natural and man-made objects. Among the featured artists, Genta Ishizuka's suspended lamp stood out, reflecting an organic cell with glossy lacquer layers and gold finishing.
Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno’s gravitation towards Rosso Ancora was further established in Design Ancora. Curated by Michela Pelizzari, Gucci exhibited its new furniture collection at its flagship store at via Monte Napoleone, 7. Five iconic Italian furniture pieces were reimagined and customised in Gucci’s signature Rosso Ancora, featuring works from Italian design masters including Mario Bellini and Tobia Scarpa. “Through Design Ancora, Gucci doesn’t simply celebrate old icons, it creates new ones,” explains Pelizzari. “The aura emanating from the brand spotlights five pieces by Italian masters that are perfect from a design standpoint but less known to the general public.”
Designed under the creative direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi, the new Fendi Casa 2024 collection introduced new products while maintaining iconic elements like the FF logo and Pequin pattern, showcased in luxurious materials and meticulous craftsmanship. Fendi further ventured into tableware and home textiles with its new home accessories collection, featuring elegant designs in French Limoges porcelain, artisanal woven leather, and blown glass. The collection intertwined Fendi's fashion universe with exquisite home decor, offering a luxurious and distinctive aesthetic.
Louis Vuitton unveils a range of exquisite offerings at its Garage Traversi store in Milan. The new Bed Trunk, a modern interpretation of Louis Vuitton's original design from 1865, combines tradition with innovation. The trunk features the iconic Monogram Canvas exterior and an interior crafted from aluminium and beechwood, and transforms effortlessly into a sturdy bedframe. Iconic Objets Nomades designs like the Cocoon and Bell Lamp were also showcased, blending Louis Vuitton's craftsmanship with contemporary design. Additionally, an expanded tableware collection introduced a new beige colourway, showcasing a fusion of classic and modern aesthetics.
For Milan Design Week, Saint Laurent Rive Droite teams with the Gio Ponti Archives, Ginori 1735 and the Fundación Anala y Armando Planchart to showcase a plate collection. But these aren't ordinary plates. These are Villa Planchart Segnaposto Plates and for such an exceptional collection, it is showcased at the Gio Ponti—Villa Planchart exhibition. Saint Laurent's creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, curated the exhibit.
This collaboration dates back to 1953. That's when Anala and Armando Planchart commissioned renowned Italian architect, Gio Ponti, to construct an avant-garde villa for them on the highest hill overlooking Caracas, Venezuela. While designing the villa, Ponti employed exceptional Italian artisans with traditional expertise for the interior decor of the Villa Planchart. This included the Florentine manufacturer Ginori 1735, for which he had previously worked as artistic director. He designed a set of porcelain tableware decorated with the various symbols of the villa. This pays homage to the village and Anala and Amando.
Saint Laurent will reissue 12 original plates from the Villa Planchart Segnaposto collection designed by Gio Ponti. These traditionally-crafted decorative porcelain plates are painted by hand in Ginori 1735’s Italian Manifattura. Available in vibrant hues, the plates feature the same motifs that appeared in the porcelain tableware designed for the villa. This included the sun, the crescent moon, the polar star and iterations of the letter “A”—referencing the initials of the villa’s owners.
The limited-edition plates will be available online, at SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE Los Angeles, SAINT LAURENT BABYLONE in Paris. Also, for a limited time, by appointment at Saint Laurent’s Milan flagship on Via Montenapoleone during Milan Design Week.
Held at the Chiostri di San Simpliciano, the Gio Ponti—Villa Planchart exhibition will be open from April 16th to 21st. To pre-book tickets, register here.