JAAN may have retained its Michelin two-star standing but Chef Kirk Westaway still isn't resting on his laurels. His annual summer menu revamp is an anticipated affair and his new menu is about the ensnaring of summer's vibrancy; the inclusion of ingredients that exemplify that Outkast "So Fresh, So Clean" vibe.
We begin with the amuse-bouche—a series of British-inspired snacks. A Smoked Ocean Trout, which is a baked bread roll stuffed with smoked trout and topped with pike roe and crème fraîche; the Baby Tomato Tart showcases tomberries—tiny, carefully skinned tomatoes (I'd imagine the commis chef hunched over, eyes narrowed and gently peeling off the skins)—nestled on a tartlet with burrata, basil pesto and a crisp fried basil leaf. There's the signature Cheddar Pancake, a buckwheat pancake orb filled with smoked cheddar that was sourced from a farm, a stone thrown away (if you have strong arms) from Chef's Westaway's childhood home. No notes there.
It's the Goose Mousse that we wanna call attention to. It's a combo of chicken liver parfait with onion marmalade, layered chestnut mushrooms and alyssum flowers. It looks unassuming but on the first bite, there are flavours that fulminate into joyous chewing; I was forlorn that it was over.
We continue with our perennial favourite, JAAN's Charred Leek and Potato Soup. It's a hearty broth that transports you to a fireplace in the winter, even though I've experienced sitting by the hearth during a snowstorm; that's how potent this dish is. (As a sidenote, if they even remove this dish from the menu, I. WILL. RIOT.)
The bread course (of course, there's a bread course) has a twin offering of homemade dark rye bâtard loaf (bâtard is French for oval-shaped, you child) and crispy sourdough brioche and served with butter accented with lemon thyme leaves.
King Crab is the first main. Shredded crab meat with diced baby cucumbers and a quenelle of yoghurt sorbet with dehydrated tomato skin underneath them. Chilled tomato sauce is poured onto the dish. There's a nuttiness to the Wild Turbot dish. Cooked in brown butter, the turbot is presented with a barbecued capsicum purée and garnished with cured lemon and capers. The Langoustine is another delight; it's served with a courgette violin, which we discovered is a kind of marrow. There's also courgette risotto, a lemon purée and finished with parsley, chives and chervil, which we also discover is a kind of parsley; a French parsley. The learning never stops at JAAN.
The Guinea Fowl is... something. From the name of the dish, we expected something bird-like. What we are presented with is... is a terrine. There are layers of brined guinea fowl, confit and minced mushrooms. It took a while to get used to this because as I'm parsing through the dish, my monkey brain thinks "bird" but I'm getting a gelatinous mouthfeel.
Coincidentally, an Earl Grey Palate Cleanser was next. Made of pomelo, sweet clementine and pink grapefruit and capped with an Earl Grey sorbet and bay leaf-infused frozen milk, it cleared the way for either a decadent Chocolate—layers of roasted hazelnuts, chocolate and a caramel parfait—and Summer Peach, a mix of fresh peaches and nectarines, verbena and peach sorbet. As usual, this lovely lunchtime concludes with the Final Sweets, a line of Apple Jam, Coffee Chocolate, Strawberry Custard Tart and Chef Westaway's rendition of the classic Devon Cream Tea.
Were we satiated? Very much so. We took in as much of the sky-high view as of the new lunch menu. With an expanded waistline and an elevated mood, our heads were filled with Chef Westaway's summer... even in this Singapore heat.
JAAN is located at Swissôtel The Stamford Singapore, 2 Stamford Rd, Level 70, Singapore 178882
Is it possible for Cure, famed for its Nua (Gaelic for 'New') Irish gastronomy, to get even more Irish? The answer is yes. Thanks to a team-up that just makes sense, all of us non-natives will get to experience the best of Ireland. Produced under the world's first government-approved sustainability programme for food and drink, no less.
Courses evoke the excellence that has earned the restaurant its star, with some signature plating and familiar desserts rekindled in this array. Especially if Cure has been on your list for some time now, this would make the perfect introduction to savour what it stands for.
Rather than embellish with a couple of quotes from Chef-Owner Andrew Walsh or Directors from Bord Bia (the Irish Food Board, quite literally translated) that you'll only skim past because you've hardly got any attention span, we thought we'd take you through honest impressions quickly taken down on Notes. It's not the most refined, but boy is it succinct.
Soda, Stout & Treacle Bread
Potato Flat Bread
Irish Brown Crab, Seaweed & Caviar
Beetroot & Salmon Tartlet
No shying from the stereotypes opening with stout and potatoes. The flavour elements really come through the first two, while it's explosion of textures on the following two.
Irish Gallagher Oyster, Almonds & Dill
King Scallop, Cider & Sea Asparagus
Colcannon, Cashel Blue Cheese & Caviar
Tales of the Silver Hill Duck
What a way to showcase seafood freshly harvested from clear Atlantic waters. Case in point: Gallagher Speciale Oysters come from a family-owned farm handpicked at 30 months for optimum quality. Other smaller players really tie everything together in the most unexpected way; from oil dollops to a hidden thin slice of potato.
The main course just knocks it out the park with the subtle smoke and beautiful bite, likely thanks to prep methods like slathering liquid fat (bad on paper, great on palate). The great Irish produce that is Silver Hill Duck's premium poultry (known as the "Wagyu of ducks") is not only Gold Standard certified for green efforts, but is also sought after by around 300 of our local restaurants here.
Childhood Memories of Peat 2.0
Caife Gaelack & Truffle Sandwich
Lucky Gold in Chocolate Pot
Almond Brown Butter Cake & Burnt Honey Cream
A magic show in both presentation and taste for the first. No honestly, how does ice cream get so perfectly peated? All pillowed into the extra crunch of its exterior. Truffle adds a welcomed dimension to the second dessert, like certain alcohols do when incorporated in cooking. Finally, you end with a tiny nugget of gold (unearthed from a pot for the gag) and a large petite four.
Black Velvet (Guinness Stout, Shanky’s Whip, Champagne, Stout Foam)
Kopparberg Pear Cider
Drunken Lepchs (Bertha's Revenge Gin, Melon, Pineapple, Citrus)
Black 1847 (Jameson Irish Whiskey, Poitín, Homemade Guinness Stout syrup, Irish bitters)
Shanky's Farmers (Five Farm Irish Cream, Shanky's Whip)
Artisan Irish Cream
The beverage pairing has a vast range—from a smooth, creamy start akin to spiked root beer, random but well-pairing Swedish cider, to an Old-Fashioned lite and what would essentially be fancy Baileys.
The partnership menu with cocktail pairing is priced from SGD385 and runs through the month of August 2024. Make your reservations at Cure.
New restaurants, bars, and menus perfect for a fancy date night or casual dining with friends …would be how we start this article off with a slew of SEO-keywords, can you tell? Though that’s still an honest description of these establishments, which maybe didn’t quite make the cut for a full feature (sorry?) but are nonetheless very worthy mentions that have earned their spot on this highlight. Or if you have already been eyeing these places, take this as a lowdown of key dishes to try.
Previously Fat Belly Social, one of the renowned places in town for a feather blade gets a new menu. And you know the steakhouse turns alternative cuts into exceptional ones when the Wagyu Flat Iron significantly outperforms the 65-day aged Cote De Boeuf. Don’t be mistaken; the latter is no weak contender when Australian grain-fed tender and seared with a caramelised crust. Still, having tried a Flat Iron steak elsewhere, this Wagyu cut with a marble score of 9+ had such undeniable flavour each bite you won’t need the sauces.
Mashed potato fans would appreciate the sinful, velvety Ratte Potato Puree that’s whisked with crap ton of milk and butter (do eat it fast before the gluten hardens). The Roasted Honey Saffron Cauliflower is a lighter side, and the florets are served atop a bed of homemade ricotta that has a lovely citrusy tang. A flavour punch would be the Kuju Kushima Oyster Mornay where the fat piece is quite literally blanketed in a luscious reduced cream, grana padano, and wilted spinach (we know how it sounds, but the combination works).
Vibe: That classic, neutral shophouse restaurant that’s safe to bring anyone
Wallet damage: $$$
Meadesmoore is located at 21A Boon Tat Street, Singapore 069620.
Why yes, this is the one you saw on Instagram. The one with the progressive menu, ambient lights, intimate seating, and ay, glass block feature. Perhaps expectations were high, but it did seem like drinks outperformed their culinary counterparts. For appetisers, Olives come satisfyingly enhanced with citrus and chilli, though at SGD10 before tax for the fruit (yes, it’s a fruit, we googled) may look hefty. The Trout Carpaccio and Seafood Spinach dumplings can’t be faulted apart from portion size, but we can’t help but wish the Umami Noodle and Chicken Mazemen packed more of a punch (pairing chillis were chefs kiss though).
Here, the Gin & Tonic is a signature and besides using house-made tonic, the unique frothy beetroot topping tells you why. The Pink Frog is another refreshing gin-based starter, especially for lovers of egg white foam on cocktails. Except you’re probably more up to try the unconventional koji rice fermented tomato brine Tomato, Tomato, or the machetazo duck-fat washed salmiana mezcal-centric Ducktini. The savoury two are undeniably subject to personal preferences, but if you want to double down on the pepper, order the Duck Kut Teh Mee Sua to go with the latter.
Vibe: The contemporary casual bar you want to be caught dead in
Wallet damage: $$
NOU Noodle Bar is located at 45 Craig Road, Singapore 089683.
Speakeasies are great, better yet if they are unintentional and serve solid slices. Up the subtly-lit stairway and through a shadowed doorway you find the petite nook away from street buzz. Helmed by veterans, the refreshed tipple menu is concise but has sufficient variety. Two are subjectively polarising—the Pillar to Post (think medicinal aperitivo) and the Ok Go (think boozy ice cream soda). On the other hand, Dawn Chorus is easy to nurse for Old Fashioned regulars, thanks to the comfortable balance of sweet from the cornflake-scented Tennessee Whiskey and housemade salted honey whey. Box of Stars steals the show as a Bellini-inspired, Champagne-dosed hit that is truly complex, with a pleasantly distinct aftertaste.
One primed to be completely up your alley is the customisable Sour What What. It’s your genie drink with freedom of spirit and presentation choice; just tell the trusty duo your profile preference. What makes you return though, will probably be the handmade pizzas literally pulled and toasted before your eyes. We thought ourselves strict fans of thin crust until we had a go. Something about the freshly warm, doughy goodness that’s simultaneously airy and crispy… Where were we? Right. Opt for the creative, non-mainstay options and definitely complement them with the housemade lao gan ma-style chilli that’s hardly spicy but so damn addictive.
Vibe: The super-chill post-dinner/early-supper hangout
Wallet damage: $
Puffy Bois is located at 20A Bali Lane, Singapore 189856.
Taking over Camp Kilo grounds, this pop-up lands a good spot not only because it’s pet-friendly and around till the end of the year, but also has the capacity to offer a nice multi-concept mix. First of the five homegrown brands is of course, The Goodburger, head honcho behind last year’s Gourmet Park RWS. As you devour their signatures, you kinda forget that they’re plant-based, and you get why their food-truck biz is still around today.
Another burger maestro (Chef Adam Penney of Potato Head Folk, Three Buns) makes a teaser appearance here, but with indulgent British breakfast fare Carnaby, which is set to launch at Roberston Quay later this year. Keeping up the backyard soul of the space is Meatsmith, which iconic char needs no introduction. Our biased favourite is Quattro, specifically the Cacio e Pepe amongst an array of Neapolitan-style pizzas and pastas. Finally, dessert is not left out with Backyard Bakers‘ homemade brownies. And fret not, there will be coffee and cocktails. We’re told to expect kitchen takeovers and more collaborations in coming months, so keep an eye out on their socials.
Vibe: The barbeque party you never got invited to in your late teens
Wallet damage: $$
Gourmet Park Kampong Bugis is located at 66 Kampong Bugis Ground Floor Patio, Singapore 338987.
For the past two years, this sister outlet to Wolfgang’s Steakhouse Singapore has catered primo cuts (100 percent USDA Prime beef) for their burgers and steaks. Now, the joint is shaking things up with a new menu for the weekend and the weekday. Crafted by Peter Zwiener now offers a weekday lunch menu (11:30am to 4pm) and a weekend special, where the USDA Prime Black Angus Ribeye will be available all. Day. Long. But we are getting ahead of ourselves. Here's what you can expect:
You have six dishes to opt from. These include three popular choices seamlessly transitioned from the restaurant’s takeaway lunch boxes. Also, each dish is accompanied with a daily cold-pressed juice.
You've the Huli Huli Chicken plate that includes a sweet smoky grilled boneless chicken leg paired with grilled pineapple, white rice and macaroni salad. The USDA Beef Bolognese Rigatoni boasts a Prime Black Angus ground beef and slatherd with tomato-based sauce. The Loco Moco has Prime Black Angus hamburg steak nestled over Japanese rice and topped with a sunny-side up egg. The Hokkaido Pork Belly Burnt Ends Plate is spice-marinated for 48 hours. You get a side of white rice, macaroni salad and Japanese Pickled Cucumbers. If you're looking for something lighter, there's a USDA Prime Rib Eye Steak Salad, a light yet satisfying salad that is served with honey mustard sauce on the side.
Crafted by Peter Zwiener got the vegetarians covered with a Mushroom Arrabbiata Rigatoni. This dish features White Button Mushrooms cooked in a savoury Arrabbiata sauce and served with Rigatoni Pasta.
As an added incentive, for those who are ordering to-go, if you bring your own takeaway containers and tumblers, you'll get SGD2 off for each ordered set. Not a bad deal—you get to save your wallet and the planet. This is only applicable for the weekday lunch menu.
Between Fridays to Sundays, the all-day USDA Prime Black Angus Ribeye (250gm) steps into the spotlight. Priced at SGD48++, you get premium cut of the ribeye and it's only available for dine-in. To further brighten up the plate, diners can pick from an array of side dishes at an additional cost. Side dishes include the Roasted Chat Potato; Mac ‘N’ Cheese; Grilled Datterino Tomato on vines; Steak or Sweet Potato Fries; Sautéed Mushrooms; Garden Salad and Grilled Jumbo Asparagus.
Crafted by Peter Zwiener has your midday and weekend hanger issues on the ropes. Other than their specialised menus, patrons can still order from the standard menus. The special weekday lunch and weekend menus won't be available on public holidays. Diners can reserve a table here.
Crafted by Peter Zwiener is located at 26 Beach Road, #B1-21, South Beach Avenue
