You’ve heard of VR games and concerts but what about VR dance shows? The first of its kind, LE BAL de PARIS de Blanca Li is a multi-sensory virtual experience. A show that seamlessly integrates music and dance to give audiences an award-winning theatrical spectacle. As an audience member, you are part of the act. Operating in a virtual space, the audience partakes in a storyline of unrequited love filled with anthropomorphic animals.
Created by the world-renowned choreographer and filmmaker, Blanca Li, the immersive and participatory experience is made possible with a room-scale virtual reality. Unlike most VR applications which allow stationary users to engage with their virtual surroundings, a room-scale VR allows for users to manoeuvre around a physical space. Think of it as playing a video game. But the controller is your body in a physical space: you move your right foot forward and your avatar echoes the action.
Running for about 35 minutes, the show is brought to life through the use of the HTC Vive Focus 3 and HTC Vive Trackers (for full body tracking). CHANEL provides the outfits your avatars will don during the session. Players are presented with a line-up of 15 CHANEL outfits to choose from in a virtual dressing room. Once chosen, players are outfitted in a garb that's fitting for a grand Parisian ball. And yes, you can even crossdress, no judgment in a virtual space. In the VR world, you can admire your duds in the mirror and you can see your hands and feet in the space as well.
At each show, 10 audience members can indulge in this shared experience. Due to the nature of the show, interaction among audience members is enforced. You're encouraged to dance or move within the space as music and audio is played through the VR headset. Follow along the story of two lovers, Adèle and Pierre. We meet them in a crowded grand ballroom and then transported to a hedge maze. There's even a travel across a lake on a boat and a jaunty ride on a tram. All these and more, within the confines of a room and in the expense of the imagination.
LE BAL de PARIS de Blanca Li brings its grandeur to Singapore's Infinite Studios and runs until 17 March 2024. Tickets are priced at SGD73 for weekdays and SGD87 for weekends. Get your tickets here.
And with that, the 96th Academy Awards aka the 2024 Oscars have concluded. Celebrating films released in 2013, the awards show continued last year's "Barbenheimer" phenomenon (although Barbie received only eight nominations as compared to Oppenheimer's 13) with two musical performances from Barbie, and Oppenheimer bringing home 7 awards. The latter included Cillian Murphy's first nomination and win for "Best Actor".
Murphy took home the award in an Atelier Versace ensemble that complemented his penchant for contemporary stylings while still adhering to traditional dress codes—an aesthetic that seemed to be the unspoken rule for almost all of our best-dressed attendees. Colman Domingo's Louis Vuitton double-breasted tuxedo consisted of flared trousers and embellished buttons, while Riz Ahmed's Marni fit was finished with raw edges with minimal flourishes.
The red carpets at awards shows as important as the Oscars have had a history of being an avenue for celebrities to show allegiance to a cause. This year was no different. Like Ahmed, attendees the likes of Ramy Youssef, Billie Eilish, and Mark Ruffalo took the opportunity to show their support for a permanent ceasefire in Gaza by wearing red lapel pins. These pins represent Artists4Ceasfire, a collective of over 400 artists who have all expressed their stand through an open letter to US President Joe Biden.
View the best menswear looks at the red carpet of the 96th Academy Awards in the gallery below.
The Saint Laurent Winter 2024 runway show was a departure from its Summer 2024 one, but only conceptually. Saint Laurent doesn't shy away from the duality of the male spirit. It's apparent in the House's throng of global famous faces adopted into its fold—from rock legend Lenny Kravitz to younger upstarts the likes of Austin Butler, Mark Tuan, and Ten Lee of NCT U—who all, while exuding an air of elegance, are more than stereotypical masculine tropes.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello has been reiterating Saint Laurent's masculine-feminine tension for a few seasons now. While typically shown during different fashion week calendars, the womenswear and menswear collections have effectively been mirror images of each other. There's been a consistency in aesthetic where Vaccarello would borrow womenswear silhouettes and fabrications for menswear, while the latter's cut would dictate the form of the womenswear collections.
For Winter 2024, the menswear show was somewhat of a surprise. Instead of showing during January's Paris Fashion Week Men's or completely off schedule (like Summer 2024's in Berlin), the Saint Laurent Winter 2024 show was about a week apart from the womenswear show—further blurring the lines between the two. But the actual surprise was the collection itself. After seasons of embodying a softer side of the Saint Laurent man, Vaccarello opted to switch things up at Paris' Bourse de Commerce (also the site of one of my personal favourite runway shows by the creative director).
The fit: Right from the first look, there was little doubt that the collection wouldn't be following a similar formula of collections prior. It was classic, almost too classic, veering on old-school. A grey double-breasted suit paired with a white shirt and (gasp!) a striped tie of significant width. There was a decidedly '80s feel to the entire ensemble but perhaps only on first glance. The wide, peak lapels of the blazer were matched in intensity with the shirt collar. Yet there were nuances of contemporary flair: the overall silhouette was still very languid and soft with a strong-shoulder anchor; the blazer was cut straight with a deliciously roomy give; and while still respecting the traditional rule of a peek of shirt cuff under the blazer, sleeves were lengthened just enough to strike away any old-school notion.
This classic-made-new combination continued on throughout the entire Winter 2024 collection. There were a few outerwear-focused looks interspersed—the liquid-like rubber propositions looked otherworldly—but the main star was the gradual dissolution of the formality of that very first look. As the show went on, the suit became lighter and more fluid both in construction as well as colours, while shirts returned to their Saint Laurent-silk normality with matching ties.
The details: The aforementioned rubber outerwear weren't just for mere drama. Vaccarello reimagined a '60s archival reference with a structured rubber peacoat worn with a leather hat that it's connected to (look 7). Beautiful things can indeed be functional.
If you were missing the silk blouses—seen aplenty on the front row—Vaccerello offered up a number in rich hues that echoed the tail end of the line-up. Although if you were looking out for classic Saint Laurent pointed boots and footwear, they were replaced with square-toed variants that added so much gravitas.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's all-black drama punctuated by that rubber coat; look 28's sublime colour combination; and an olive green version in look 37 that I would've never considered up till now.
The takeaway: Covered up as compared to previous collections yes, but the Saint Laurent man is still as sexy as Vaccarello has made him to be.
View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
Artistic director Kim Jones’ continuous delving into the Dior archives has resulted in a Dior Men Summer 2024 collection that is an amalgamation of ideas of the house’s past creatives. From the tailoring silhouettes of Yves Saint Laurent to Gianfranco Ferré’s couture embroidery, the collection celebrates the archetypal masculine wardrobe and elevates them into something extravagant, yet reined with a spirited elegance.
Nothing feels quite as satisfying as purchasing a piece of garment that fits like a glove. It’s a stroke of luck unless your body is conventionally shaped and match the standard dimensions of pattern blocks used by ready-to-wear manufacturers. Even then, these standards can differ between brands, and finding the right fit—for those who care about the subtleties of a well-fitting ensemble—can be challenging.
Ready-to-wear makes up a significant chunk of the clothing market, ranging from fast fashion to luxury assortments offered by major brands. While the designs and the levels of craftsmanship (if any) vary, the ease and relative speed of producing ready-to-wear make it the default choice for the everyman.
The idea of ready-to-wear fashion isn’t new, and its proliferation and mainstream access had arrived by the 20th century. Driven by the Industrial Revolution, ready-to-wear gained traction with the accelerated speed of producing yarns, as well as the invention of pattern-cutting and sewing machinery. Technology would continue to advance, capable of producing new yarns and blends of fabric at quantities commanded by economies of scale. This is why we’re able to rock up to a store, pick a shirt, try it on in the fitting room, and pay for it at the cashier, all in less than 30 minutes, or cart out a piece of garment in a matter of minutes online.
“It was a time of big fashion corporations, globalisation and an impersonal approach to design,” says Giorgio Armani. “I believe it is important to remember where fashion design started—with the desire to make beautiful clothes for people to wear.” With this intention, the Italian maestro decided to embark on a made-to-measure service in 2006 that is rooted in his design language of ease and comfort.
Fluid shapes and relaxed tailoring are Giorgio Armani signatures and its made-to-measure service simplifies the offering into two categories. The “Soho” is more suited to those looking for contemporary and sophisticated silhouettes, while the “Wall Street” range offers classic and traditional silhouettes. Both feature designs from the Giorgio Armani ready-to-wear collections too for daywear and eveningwear.
The new Ngee Ann City boutique is one of a select number of Giorgio Armani shops around the world offering the made-to-measure service. Clients need only turn up for an initial consultation, where a trained staff will take their measurements needed and go through the customisations that can be done—from fabric choice to type of lapel, down to the lining and buttons.
The process is fairly streamlined:, and clients are given an option for a second fitting before the made-to-measure piece is finished. The final garment can either be picked up at the boutique or delivered to the client. And after that first piece has been made, the client’s measurements and unique pattern will be stored in the Giorgio Armani database—no further measurements are needed for subsequent orders, unless the clients’ figure change over time.
While more known for its slate of beautiful patinated leather shoes, Berluti too offers a tailoring service. And just like its bespoke shoe service, its Grand Mesure suits are technically bespoke—a piece cut exactly to the measurement of one’s body with personalisation options that are almost limitless. The brand partners up with Parisian bespoke tailor Arnys (acquired by parent company LVMH in 2012 and folded into Berluti) for its Grand Mesure tailoring.
More than just the garment itself, bespoke services often relates to the client’s lifestyle—how he lives, what he does, where he sees himself wearing the piece, etc. Because having almost a limitless range of options to choose from can be daunting, the tailor is able to guide and advise on fabric choices (over 3,000 in total) and even the tiniest details. If not, a Grand Mesure collection provides initial inspirations on pieces to work with, such as a safari jacket, denim jeans and the emblematic Berluti Forestière jacket.
Three weeks after the initial consultation, the first fitting is scheduled. If it’s a suit that’s being crafted, the unfinished jacket will be presented to determine if the fit is perfect. A completed pair of trousers is presented at this fitting. A month later, a complete bespoke suit will be presented during a second fitting where adjustments to length, width and overall fit can be made promptly. And just like that, about two months after the first consultation, a Berluti Grand Mesure suit is made to one’s unique dimensions.
But of course, made-to-measure and bespoke services aren’t restricted to traditionally tailored garments.
Prada’s made-to-measure service extends to leather outerwear as well as knitwear. For the former, clients are able to choose between six outerwear styles: blazer, caban, coat, bomber, biker and overcoat. A selection of three types of leathers are used with a high level of customisation options. But because leather is a more precious material to work with, the artisan will only start cutting the chosen leather once a canvas toile is tried and fitted on the client with no further changes.
The range is wider for Prada’s made-to-order knitwear. Ten classic Prada knits can be customised using two lightweight gauge knits—superfine wool f.30 and superfine cashmere f.18. Colours can be taken from Prada’s extensive runway archives to create a knit that’s Prada in every way but still unique to one’s whims.
Drawing on the execution of a modern tailoring wardrobe, Zegna’s made-to-measure service consists of more traditional tailoring to the brand’s more relaxed proposals. Refined materials such as Zegna’s 100 per cent traceable Oasi Cashmere come in elegant monochromatic shades with knit tailoring exemplifying the contemporary aesthetic that is signature to the brand. Key outerwear styles such as the overshirt and chore jacket too are part of the mix, done in a choice of fine fabrics that traipse the line of performance and style seamlessly.
The idea of made-to-measure for brands largely involved in ready-to-wear but with an appreciation for traditional tailoring and craft, is to offer a level of service that’s one of the backbones of luxury. Anybody can go to a boutique and buy something off the rack, but not everyone can get the same piece tailored specifically for them.
“I realised that I have clients who really do want a unique product, made specifically for them. Hence, I decided to create a made-to-measure service, where a customer gets all the benefits of a tailor-made garment—unique fit, fabric, lining, buttons, details—as well as the signature Giorgio Armani look,” says Armani.
It’s also about appreciating the time and artistry behind the craft. With made-to-measure, it’s a given that a big portion of creating the garment is done by hand by skilled artisans. And to know that you’ve had a hand in designing your very own Prada knitwear or Zegna jacket? What could be more luxurious than that?
The collab between adidas and Australian fashion house Song for the Mute combines functions and looks. It may be trite but it must be doing something because this is their third team-up. For this new Song for the Mute x adidas 003 collection, Creative Director Lyna Ty reinterprets heritage silhouettes with modernist fabrication and detailing. This partnership oversees the reimagining of the iconic Country OG silhouette. This, as well as, a new apparel range that includes sportswear essentials.
At the heart of this collection lies the reinterpreted Country OG silhouette. Now dubbed simply as the “SFTM-003”, it is available in three 90’s inspired colourways. You've grey and teal, those hues are reminiscent of vintage windbreakers, and finally, in black. Each pair arrives with an additional metallic D-ring hardware combined with a custom paracord-inspired toggle lacing system. A perfect synergy and a nod to "futuristic nostalgia". Keeping to its roots, the kicks retain its beloved soft cushioning, grippy outsole and low-profile build. Finally, to cap it off, the flexible leather upper blends everyday comfort with an elevated look.
As for the collaborative apparel essentials, Ty dabbles in new textile directions and techniques in the apparel range. You've your sherpa fleece zip-up jackets that's accompanied by digital printed contrast sleeves. There are distressed jersey hoodies, an oversized blazer and press-stud track pants in a lightweight coated cotton. Rounding up the range is a custom jacquard knitwear that comes with an intricate contrasting colour-work.
Song for the Mute x adidas 003 is readily available at adidas Brand Centre Orchard, adidas VivoCity Originals B1 as well as online and the adidas CONFIRMED App.
With the release of Dune: Part Two right around the corner, the cast has been on a press tour the world over. There's no denying that they're taking the fashion seriously too. From red carpet premieres to photocalls, Timothée Chalamet and Austin Butler—portraying Paul Atreides and newly introduced Feyd-Rautha Harkonnen, respectively—have been showcasing a diverse array of looks. Each outfit chosen had been statements in their own right, and are deserving of as much hype as the movie itself.
At CinemaCon 2023, Chalamet was decked out in a grungy look as he wore an edgy leather vest by Helmut Lang over a white T-shirt and skinny leather motorcycle trousers with built-in knee pads. To finish off the biker aesthetic, a pair of pointed black leather boots was the footwear of choice.
At the casts’ appearance on Jimmy Kimmel Live!, Chalamet's edgy outfit consisted of a sleeveless black sweatshirt with grommet detailing by Junya Watanabe x Stüssy, leather trousers from Alexander McQueen and black boots. However, he switched things up with a cozy knit from Hermès during the taping.
Butler arrived in a black unbuttoned shirt, wearing a matching black pinstriped suit over, and boots. He also had on a thin silver chain necklace, proving that it's what one needs to complete any suit look.
Chalamet wore a sleeveless calf hair top from Hermès' yet-to-be-released Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection, matched with trousers and chunky leather boots. Butler, on the other hand, opted for something a little more relaxed with a simple white T-shirt under a grey unbuttoned three-piece by Givenchy.
The duo kept it smart in Mexico City. Chalamet wore a custom Prada suit and a black poplin v-neck shirt with what is decidedly his more experimental look thus far. The blazer was tucked in and accessorised with a double tour Prada belt.
Butler rocked a striking pinstripe suit from Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection with cutting shoulders. Completing the look, he opted for a gold-buckled belt—not too excessive but also not too modest.
In Paris, the Dune lead stayed rather safe with a black turtleneck and sleek leather pants (notably a recurring trend with the actor) from Bottega Veneta's Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Cartier jewellery and a pair of Oliver Peoples sunglasses completed the easy look.
Butler exuded effortless style in a monochromatic Fear of God ensemble, featuring loose-fit clothing with relaxed shoulders—a departure from his usual tailored suits. He completed the look with understated David Yurman jewellery.
Chalamet wore a custom shiny metal breastplate from Givenchy with a graphic turtleneck. He had also worn a black wool jacket featuring a notch lapel with matching wool trousers. Cartier accessories such as a platinum Cintrée timepieces from the Rééditions collection and a sizeable silver ring.
Butler dressed smart in yet another Louis Vuitton ensemble, which consisted of a sharply tailored black jacket over a crisp white dress shirt, and a striking pair of flared pants reminiscent of the '70s. He kept it easy with a pair of black dress shoes, and a ring for a little hint of jewellery.
Chalamet's fish scale wool sweater was from Bottega Veneta’s women’s collection, reiterating that clothing has no gender. And if his legs looked longer than usual, that's all thanks to the chocolate brown leather pants matched with a set of Ripley Boots by Bottega Veneta as well.
Butler was wearing a custom three-piece double-breasted suit by Louis Vuitton in an offbeat shade of grey. The unusually wide-lapel blazer and waistcoat, once again, blends a sense of timelessness with a contemporary twist that Butler tends to favour.
Chalamet reunited with designer Haider Ackermann, donning on metallic trousers that were difficult to not miss, and paired with an oversized black shirt. For accessories, he wore a custom Cartier necklace featuring invert-set diamonds in orange, yellow, brown, and white hues, designed to mimic the desert landscape in Dune.
Butler's penchant for tailoring saw him taking on a black Sabato de Sarno for Gucci overcoat paired with a white vest. It's perhaps simple in execution but sleek and dramatic all the same.
Chalamet was seen sporting powdery blue overalls from South Korean designer Juun.J's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, in a deliberate move to twin with fellow lead Zendaya. He finished off the look with simple silver necklaces and a pair of Chelsea boots in the same exact shade, sticking true to the runway look.
Butler was also dressed in blue, opting for a Valentino suit with a silk shirt of a lighter shade. But instead of keeping to the monochromatic tones of the clothes, the footwear of choice was a black pair of dress shoes. A silver necklace completed the entire look.
For Seoul's premiere, Chalamet chose a sleek white suit paired with black leather boots, both courtesy of Gucci. Continuing his partnership with Cartier, he wore a single Cartier diamond necklace for a touch of elegance—just one of his many moments with the luxury brand throughout the press tour.
Butler kept it classic with a black pinstriped double-breasted suit layered over a white dress shirt, matching the entire ensemble with a black tie and black dress shoes.
Dune: Part Two will show in cinemas on 29 February 2024.
Many things come and go (and come again) in fashion. Yet, the elegance of formal menswear continues to stand the test of time. One may argue that there’s less of a need to be decked out in a full suit these days. But that doesn’t mean that the category has been rendered completely obsolete.
Louis Vuitton’s latest "New Formal" menswear collection reiterates the fusion of timeless elegance with modern tailoring. elevating formal staples with luxury craftsmanship. Following the Spring/Summer 2024 debut, this latest trans-seasonal instalment places a spotlight on slim suiting. Single-breasted jackets are paired with cigarette trousers for a timeless silhouette. It exudes an air of confidence and refined professonalism. Apart from being available in classic shades of black and navy, an option in white makes for the perfect fit for an evening soirée.
The Damier motif that’s been further emphasised by Louis Vuitton men’s creative director Pharrell Williams adorns everything from suiting to footwear. With a wavy motif and pinstripes cut on the bias, it add a subtle, dynamic flair. As if one needs more examples on how this isn’t your father’s idea of tailoring. Footwear styles such as the Sorbonne loafers, Varenne Chelsea boots and Richelieus in rich leather tones complement the tailored options. They prove to be key staples of the “New Formal” collection.
Formality here, however, isn’t just defined by suiting. This new instalment expands the idea of formalwear with tailored outerwear that act as complementary, timeless options. An elegant navy suede leather blouson, a beige peacoat designed with a shearling collar, as well as a parka constructed as a three-in-one piece, all offer the kind of versatility one would expect from a collection meant to be an indispensable investment. Wear them with the extensive coordinated options of the “New Formal” tailoring. Or pair them with other more casual wardrobe staples for an elegant quick-fix.
Iconic bag styles like the Keepall travel bag and the Aerogram Lock It tote suit every professional need. The Georges tote—introduced in the first instalment—makes a return as it becomes an emblem for the collection. Crafted in Millésime grained leather by Domaine des Massifs, the design is sleek, stylish, and hardy such that it makes for a brilliant alternative to an ordinary briefcase.
The suit is dead, long live the suit.
The latest Louis Vuitton "New Formal" collection is now available in Louis Vuitton boutiques and online.
Edited by Asri Jasman
At the recently concluded Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear runway show during Paris Fashion Week Men's, BamBam was one of many celebrity attendees. The Thai-born singer and rapper of K-pop group GOT7 easily stood out with his red hair and Pharrell Williams-designed fit. Wearing look 9 from the Maison's Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, BamBam (like the style savant that he is) put his own spin by opting for black trousers instead of shorts, heavy-duty boots, and finished it off with pearl accessories.
His presence at the show was quite a social media hit. The hashtag #BamBamXLVFW24—an unofficial, fanbase-initiated hashtag—amassed over 2.1 million posts on various platforms. It's little wonder that weeks after the show, BamBam was officially announced as Louis Vuitton's newest house ambassador. "I am super happy to join Louis Vuitton as a house ambassador this time," BamBam says in an announcement video. "What Pharrell is doing here is amazing. I'm super honoured to be part of it."
The appointment is made sweeter as not only is BamBam now part of Louis Vuitton's illustrious list of ambassadors, he also joins fellow bandmate, Jackson Wang, who has been part of the fold since 2023. Wang was even one of the faces of the Maison's "Horizons Never End" campaign that centred on its spirit of travel. It may be too soon to say for sure if BamBam will be featured in an upcoming campaign, but given his pull and reach, we'd say the chances of one is quite likely. In an official press release, Louis Vuitton has already hinted on "an exciting collaborative journey".
This road to an house ambassadorship with Louis Vuitton, however, was a longtime coming. BamBam had already been wearing Louis Vuitton on a number of occasions years before. And while it's common for those in the K-pop sphere to wear the newest threads from the big fashion houses, Louis Vuitton seemed to be quite a prominent fixture in BamBam's roster of brands.
In 2021, he wore a Louis Vuitton suit featuring a watercolour version of its famed Monogram for the music video of "riBBon" that's part of his first mini-album. The musician even wore a Nicholas Ghesquière-designed Spring/Summer 2022 womenswear look the very same year, proving that the man can rock just about anything from the Maison's universe. Throughout the year and years since, BamBam frequently repped Louis Vuitton—from jewellery to bags to ready-to-wear—in a number of magazine editorials, appearances as well as performances.
He made his first Louis Vuitton runway appearance at Williams' debut show, where he was visibly overjoyed to be reunited with Wang. And simply put, that moment became the turning point in his relationship with the Maison. Not only was he deserving of a spot on the front row of one of fashion's biggest moment that season, it was an official recognition of BamBam as a worthy ambassador of the Maison's new chapter.
And to have it happen after celebrating 10 years of with GOT7, we reckon BamBam as a style icon is about to get more traction.
Edited by Asri Jasman
The fit: The Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was an intimate one. Held salon-style at its Parisian headquarters, the collection was designed by the Givenchy studio—Matthew M. Williams' final collection was for Pre-Autumn 2024. To be honest, even without the hand of a known creative director, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection felt a lot more refined with just enough injections of playful modern nuances.
The entire collection was based on founder Hubert de Givenchy's personal wardrobe with elements that he had a penchant for. The use of the colour sapphire, for example, was adopted because de Givenchy adored it as a replacement for black, while cut up armholes of outerwear were an ode to his penchant for capes. Tailoring was central to the collection—although trousers could have done with a little bit of length adjustments but I'm just nitpicking—with suits and tailored outerwear making up a bulk of the collection. And in true Givenchy style, the shoulders were strong and cutting.
The details: Fun came with the way that an archival cat motif was incorporated into some of the looks. It was done tongue-in-cheek as a oversized parka that featured a number of the cat faces seemingly drowning in their own fur, and in another, the fur took on the form of a shearling jacket-cape hybrid. In look 18, it became a mini shearling crossbody that was paired with a tank featuring the print.
What was quite a stunner, especially up close, was the closing look's jacket. Beautifully ornate, the jacket was a reminder of the kind of craftsmanship that the design studio is capable of, and one that had been sorely missed on the runways.
Three exceptional looks: Look 2's interpretation of the studio's blouse blanche as a workwear staple; the double cardigan styling of look 13; and the closing look.
The takeaway: Not all luxury fashion houses need to infuse some semblance of streetwear into their designs.
View the full Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Within the realm of menswear tailoring, the structures and limits are palpable, owing to the time-honoured techniques of not only constructing a suit, but also in the idea of tailoring as a garment of authority. Chinese designer Sean Suen recognises this. His eponymous label's Autumn/Winter 2024 collection—and also, pretty much his entire repertoire thus far—tapped on the conventions of tailoring by referencing the period where Western tailoring began being adopted by the East.
There's an undeniably rebellious take on tailoring, and I'm not even talking about the one look where the model revealed some derrière. Traditional menswear silhouettes were deconstructed before being spliced together, creating asymmetrical shapes that formed beautiful drapes. At the heart of it was a '50s-led reference with wide ties and geometric prints indicative of the period.
The details: While the tailoring was, in every sense, contemporary, Suen included mandarin-collared suiting. But of course, they were also rendered in more contemporary styles—the first outing saw elongated sleeves with an oversized bodice with equally oversized patch pockets.
On a number of looks, Suen piled on the waistbands. On a number of occasions, they took on the appearance of a visible ribbed knit layer (akin to that play of visible boxer waistbands) while others were more literal interpretations of a double layer of trouser waistbands.
Three exceptional looks: Look 2 and its spliced collar and draped asymmetry; the obvious old-school reference of look 11 but made fresh; and the regality of look 27 that had tie bars used as lapel pins.
The takeaway: There are always ways to move around the preconceived confines of menswear, and Sean Suen is becoming quite a master at it.
View the full Sean Suen Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Dries Van Noten can do no wrong in my eyes. There's consistency in his design aesthetic—you can definitely tell a Dries Van Noten piece even with the brand steering away from obvious logos and branding—but Papa Dries offers something new every season.
For Autumn/Winter 2024, the man known for his play with prints and proportions, kicked things off with a string of dark tailored looks. Each felt different and at times disjointed from the one before—yet that was the unifying narrative. The collection was a play in the unexpected and of juxtaposition. There was no telling what the next look would be as he moved from a cuttingly tailored suit worn almost rock-and-roll-like with a fringed, long scarf, to a deconstructed jumper worn over a languid, long coat.
As the darks became increasingly punctuated by textures and infusions of muted colours, Papa Dries revealed a sudden spate of his signature prints and colour-blocking. But at the same time, they remained washed and pared back in intensity.
The details: There was a studied use of garments in non-traditional ways. Jumpers were worn either unzipped from the side or completely cropped with zippered hems. Leather was used as mock-neck tops, while shirting and a number of jackets were fastened with brooches and pins for a rakish drape that was simply sublime. Long opera-like gloves took on many different forms and added edge to some of the simplest tailoring and combinations in the collection.
But at the end of it all, everything was wearable—a key Dries Van Noten element.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9 that I honestly wanted to wear right there and then off the runway; look 24's brilliant use of textures and draping; and look 53 that's a combination of both.
The takeaway: Whatever Papa Dries has been doing to keep his creativity constantly fresh yet consistent, I want it.
View the full Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The fit: Kenzo was my last show for day four of Paris Fashion Week Men's and after a rather exhausting day, it personally wasn't as exciting as it ought to be in the moment. The venue was spectacular, however. Held at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, the space offered a brilliant backdrop for an Autumn/Winter 2024 collection themed around the cross-cultural exchange of the origins of the fictional universe of the Star Wars franchise.
Thankfully, artistic director Nigo opted to not be literal with the inspiration—there weren't obvious nods to the films nor were there prints done in collaboration with the franchise. But rather, he chose to incorporate the Asian influences of the Star Wars lore and references into the silhouettes. Outerwear had semblances of sci-fi with knot fastenings adorning the front.
The details: The silhouettes may not have been severe or fashion-forward, but the prints added some punch to the entire collection. A woven pattern inspired by Japanese hikeshi-banten fireman's jackets appeared on everything from suits to workwear, while a number of different tiger motifs were rendered in jacquards and embroideries.
Three exceptional looks: Look 6's more extravagant coords that featured the collection's more standout motif; look 30's streamlined tailoring; and look 50 that felt more Kenzo by Nigo.
The takeaway: Elevated and streamlined, yes. But where's the fun?
View the full Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
The 66th Annual Grammy Awards continued to be quite a show. Taylor Swift may have made history as the first person to win "Album of the Year" four times, but there were more noteworthy moments that happened onstage. Swift's award was presented by Celine Dion, who made her first public appearance since taking a break from performing after being diagnosed with stiff person syndrome. The legendary Joni Mitchell—with a career spanning 60 years—performed for the first time on the award show, while Tracy Chapman made her return to the Grammy stage after a nine-year break from performing live.
Aside from the showcase and honouring of musical brilliance, the Grammys also served as a dazzling runway for fashion statements. From John Legend to 21 Savage, the evening’s attendees and nominees offered quite a visual feast. After a year filled with memorable musical journeys, the fashion too had to follow suit. And there wasn't any lack of it on the red carpet—proving once again that at the Grammys, excellence extends beyond beats and lyrics.
View the best menswear looks at the red carpet of the 66th Annual Grammy Awards in the gallery below.
I recently had a suit made at Marlo Bespoke on Club Street. Wanting to do something uniquely Singaporean, I decided to juxtapose a cloth that reflected this city’s position as a financial hub—banker-style navy pinstripes—with a vibrant tropical-motif lining, a nod to Singapore’s ‘garden city’ status.
The idea was to sartorially balance business and pleasure, sobriety and whimsy. I’m far from the first to have had this thought. Vishal Advani, managing director of Officine Paladino, the Singaporean cloth merchants responsible for the bold bird-emblazoned internal fabric I selected, says his range of splashy graphic linings have proven to be a tremendous success.
“We wanted to give sartorial enthusiasts a way to express their individuality and their passions, whether that be golf, fishing or tennis, travel, automobiles or cryptocurrency, whatever the case may be,” Advani says. “It’s an opportunity they’ve really embraced—sales of our more outré designs have been brisk.”
In addition to its Italian-made viscose linings, Officine Paladino also traffics in an array of audacious suiting cloths, for those who fancy a more overt expression of maximalism. “Being from Singapore and dealing with a lot of tailors around Southeast Asia, we take inspiration from the situations and people around us,” Advani says. “In this environment, colour and pattern just come naturally.”
That’s a statement prominent hotel interior designer Bill Bensley would most certainly agree with. Since establishing his studio in Bangkok in 1989, Bensley says, “I have evolved into a serious maximalist. My personal taste craves layer upon layer of quirkiness and colour.”
Arguably the leading name in sustainable hospitality design today, Bensley (who was initially trained in landscape architecture) may seek maximum impact visually, but he always aims for minimal impact environmentally. His own Shinta Mani Wild luxury eco-resort in the jungles of Cambodia was built without cutting down a single tree, and at sibling property Shinta Mani Angkor in Siem Reap, greenery is just as important a part of the décor as the plush furnishings and glitzy fittings.
“Many of our projects are in lush, tropical places, and over the years tropical maximalism has become a way of life, especially in terms of gardens. This climate lends itself so easily to gorgeous, overflowing gardens,” Bensley says. “And being a landscape architect, one must always put nature first—the architecture and interiors follow.”
In building an urban Bangkok outpost of her family’s Chiang Mai luxury resort, 137 Pillars, Nida ‘Natty’ Wongphanlert referenced elements of the original property’s heritage aesthetic, traditional handcrafted touches and verdant setting within the new high-rise hotel. “We didn’t consider a minimalistic approach for our property,” she says. Instead, the goal was to provide guests with “a visually stunning and memorable experience,” Wongphanlert says, “combining boldness and elegance.”
She explains, “We utilised luxurious materials such as marble, silk, and brass finishes. We integrated authentic Thai elements, like Jim Thompson curtains and pillow cases, to pay homage to local craftsmanship. To add warmth and depth, we incorporated dark, rich wooden tones along with a navy colour palette, as well as small areas of strong contrasting colours, such as red, and decorative ornaments like our elephant lamps.”
The overall effect could best be described as ‘tastefully maximalist’. “Material selection was incredibly important, aiming for a luxurious feel while incorporating local design in a modern and sophisticated manner,” Wongphanlert says. “Additionally, we wanted to showcase the works of local artists throughout the property, immersing guests in the vibrant local art scene.”
Eye-catching art is a core element of the lavish tableaux created at Singapore’s new Mondrian Duxton hotel by US-based interior designer, Robbyn Carter. She reckons the secret to crafting a maximalist space that bursts with visual interest, without warping the viewer’s mind, lies in “meticulous curation and intentional composition.”
Carter says, “While it may appear chaotic, each element should have a purpose and place within the design. I ensure that there’s a unifying theme or colour palette that threads through the space, anchoring it and preventing it from feeling disjointed.” Success lies in thoughtfully layering textures, patterns and colours to maintain a harmonious balance, she suggests.
“Ultimately, it’s about orchestrating controlled chaos, where every element contributes to the overall narrative, resulting in a vibrant and captivating space that never overwhelms, but continually surprises and delights,” Carter advises. Just as the layout of these magazine pages tempers rather hectic images with plenty of serene white emptiness, Carter says expertly executed maximalist design provides “areas of negative space that allow the eye to rest, preventing sensory overload.”
Chef Ivan Brehm of Michelin-starred Nouri restaurant is responsible for some of Singapore’s most visually stimulating cuisine. (It tends to taste pretty good, too.) Asked how he manages to create dishes that are aesthetically impactful, without being overly fussy or bombastic, he replies, “Obviously that’s the golden ratio, isn’t it? If it was easy, everybody’d be doing it. For me, content—the substance of what you’re doing—leads the way.”
In crafting a meal that is a visual feast and yet, aesthetically balanced, he says, “When done correctly, all of the elements are there to promote a particular idea; they are very much in agreement with one another.” Doing maximalism well requires you to ask yourself, “Are all the elements purposeful? Are they there for a reason? Are they driving a singular message in what you’re trying to express?” Picture perfect as his creations may be, Brehm decries our Insta-driven obsession with the look of food, reminding us that while the eyes eat first, it’s our tastebuds and gullets that savour a dish’s deeper beauty.
An international, multicultural melange he describes as ‘crossroads cuisine,’ Brehm’s cooking is difficult to pin down or categorise. This Brazilian with a German surname is inspired by the cacophony of colours and flavours, sights and sounds, spiritualities and philosophies, of the Mediterranean and North Africa, the Middle East and India, Europe and Scandinavia, South America and Southeast Asia, and beyond.
“When cultures interact, the tendency is for some form of aggregate to take place, which manifests visually, religiously, musically—all of those things start to become more complex,” Brehm says. “And the result is greater than the sum of its parts.” In Brehm’s view, it is the clash of opposing forces and the friction between different approaches that creates something of singular beauty.
“Every movement starts in opposition to another, and it’s because of that opposition that each moves forward,” he says. In much the same way that there can be no light without darkness, maximalism only exists in contrast to minimalism. Yet despite their stark differences, the two ends of the spectrum actually have much in common.
“It’s like a snake eating its own tail,” Brehm says. He gives the example of the type of severe, ascetic, unadorned churches designed by architects like Tadao Ando and John Pawson. “Those spaces are totally overwhelming,” he says. “What could be more maximalist than that?”
