Now that Milan Fashion Week Men's is done, we're heading to Paris where Louis Vuitton will kick things off with its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show by Pharrell Williams. This will be Williams' third menswear show, and with the previous two taking references from cultures and experiences around the world, his latest offering may perhaps take on a similar slant. But perhaps, as "Le monde est à vous" is what the show is being called—literally "the world is yours"—it may be even bigger than before.
For confirmation of what the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Wednesday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Wednesday, 19 June 2024 at 2.30am Singapore time
I hate to bring up "quiet luxury" again (have we used this term to death yet?) but that pretty much sums up the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear offering by Dolce&Gabbana. And it's not a bad thing.
The Dolce&Gabbana you see on the runway and what you eventually see people buy into tend to be different—the latter is often logo-heavy. For a few season now, the brand has slowly deviated from this, offering collections that are more subtle in branding with a focus on the silhouettes and details that are more emblematic of the brand but not necessarily what the general public's impression of the brand is like.
It's a strong proposition from the very first look: a raffia jacket woven with two different colours, and with weaving techniques also reflected in an extended belt as well as woven lace-ups. Yes, it did look rather stiff on the runway but then came look 12's raffia coat that dispelled any talk about the raffia pieces in the Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 collection being stiff and impractical. The fluidity was there and so was the structure—in other words, splendid Italian craftsmanship.
The fit: It's difficult to not see the nod to '60s and '70s fashion in the collection—coincidentally or not, that was also when wicker-woven design pieces reigned supreme—but kept to Dolce&Gabbana's classic oversized-top look. There were some semblances of tailoring in a few looks but the overall aesthetic skewed towards the summer holiday locales of Capri, Venice, and Portofino. Sailor-collared shirting were punctuated with stripes of different widths (lending that '70s vibe), while scarves adorned looks that were made perfect for the Italian coast.
The details: Weaving is undoubtedly the central technique that the collection was built around. Dolce&Gabbana employed weaving techniques across leather and raffia. They were varied in applications as well as techniques, with some appearing like crochet, especially in a number of footwear.
What caught my eye however, were the coral embroideries that were featured quite beautifully in a number of looks. It was look 29's variation—an ivory white suit with trousers decorated with coral-hued embellishments—where I could hear the clinging of the pieces as the model walked in front of me. And considering how loud fashion shows tend to be, it was quite an experience.
Three exceptional looks: Look 15's oversized woven top matched with an equally woven bag and shoes; the monochromatic colour-blocking in look 21 with the most gorgeous shade of green; and look 38's clever use of stripes.
The takeaway: Refined, different, and subtle all the same–this is a Dolce&Gabbana collection for the discerning.
View the full Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The first thing anyone would have noticed at the Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 runway show—apart from the beautiful projections of horses galloping—were the models. And not that they're unusually more attractiveor that there's quite a diverse cast (it's de rigueur for the brand), but rather, it's the fact that they're smiling. It's a known fact that models don't typically smile on the runway; any other facial expression apart from a neutral one is considered distracting. But at the Emporio Armani show, the smiles added so much more levity and underscored the ease of the collection.
Mr Armani intended to capture an escape from the limitations of city living, running off out into nature in pieces that reflected a nuanced combination of the two. The colours graduated from muted shades of wheat, sand and the like before hitting a crescendo of purple hues brought about by lavender fields. But just how much freedom was Mr Armani looking to convey? Well, let's just say that the finale was rather spirited pairings of a man and a woman—the latter a vision of spring's boldest hues. The Emporio Armani man accompanied her, dressed in nothing a pair of leather shorts matched with a leather harness, boots, and at times carrying a basket of lavender blooms.
The fit: There's no doubt that the Armani aesthetic worked exceptionally well here—no other silhouette speaks to the airiness and lightness of freedom as the Armani look. Shoulders are dropped across the board while trousers (Mr Armani introduced high-waisted variations with their top folded over) billow with every slight movement, giving air a temporary visual presence. Layering was kept to a minimal (at most an inner layer over lightweight outerwear) with bare skin being quite an important element for the season. It's not done in any vulgar way however, but rather a complement to the act of being one with nature.
The details: Leather harnesses and waists cinched with triple-tour belts (or what looked like a belt-over-belt-over-belt situation) added equestrian elements that juxtaposed the overall airiness of the collection. Sure, you'd think everything would be loose and unrestraint for a collection that's all about freedom. But therein lies a beauty in reining in—some stylistic tension is always the mark of a genius. And speaking of genius, Mr Armani is also all about the details and I spotted a tunic with stunning trimming along its front that added such fine, luxury craftsmanship.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3's super relaxed vibe topped off with strings of unrefined stones as a necklace; a look consisting of an oversized white suit decorated at random with raw edged holes; and look 65's masterful pairing of monochromatic hues.
The takeaway: An Italian Western love story of spring and its bountiful harvest of colours and freedom.
View some looks from the Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
"I think I'm pretty good at this," Cha Eun-woo nonchalantly said while playing a game with Dior where he masterfully guessed the Dior Men collection by artistic director Kim Jones based on a number of corresponding objects.
He should be a pro at it; Cha has been to a number of runway shows for both Dior and Dior Men since 2022. In fact, he was the only Korean idol to have ever attended a fashion show in Egypt, the site of Dior Men's first show in the country for its Fall 2023 show in Cairo.
Cha's connection with Dior began in 2022, first as a Dior Beauty ambassador. Sure, there's no doubt that the multi-talented actor and singer is as good-looking as they come—there's that impossibly perfect, poreless, porcelain skin and facial proportions that can only be described as stripped from a fantasy novel—but Cha's proven to be more than just a beautiful face. The man has serious style chops.
At the 2022 exhibition Treasure Gardens in Seoul by French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel (sponsored by Dior Beauty), Cha wore a Dior Men double-breasted suit with classic accoutrements. It was his first official appearance for the House and it felt fitting as a nod to Dior's haute couture beginnings. But just as Dior Men is more than mere tailoring, Cha has proven that he's quite a fashion chameleon with a range that's as wide as the roles he's taken on as an actor.
Cha continuously exemplifies style deftness on the front row. His first Dior show, the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 collection, saw him opting for a full-black ensemble with a Dior Cannage coat that added much needed textural contrast. In Cairo, he switched it up with an outfit from the Dior Men Spring 2023 collection—a collaboration with Los Angeles-based ERL—that stood out in a different way. "There were several outfits I tried during fitting and chose this in the end," he said, referring to the tinsel sweater in a gradation of blues from look 15 of the collection. And if that wasn't enough tinsel, he had on a Dior Saddle bag in the same treatment and affixed with an oversized gold chain. But before you cry foul that Cha essentially wears Dior Men like how it's styled on the runway, he substituted the jorts and sneakers in the original look for denim jeans and sneakers that complemented his frame and gave more attention to the top half of his outfit.
It's this duality (a term that's been gaining popularity of late in reference to celebrities being adaptable and having multiple personas) that makes Cha quite the perfect Dior man. You'd see him in a monochromatic, elegant ensemble one day, and the next, he'd be in the House's more streetwear-inspired leanings.
The Dior Men Fall 2024 collection speaks to this duality—a convergence of past, present and future. Jones continued exploration of the house codes led him to the visual narratives by Monsieur Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. The collection might be a tailoring-focused one, but peppered with elements of the outdoors as well as military-inspired pieces. Subverted tailoring include front-tie blazers and striped shirts paired with shorts as well as bermudas lined with a peeking layers of silk. There's an Art Deco feel in the patterns used on sweaters with zipped details providing that extra element of functionality.
Dior Gravity Leather reinforces the Dior Oblique motif's timeless relevance. The latest interpretation of the icon sees an entirely unique embossing technique that marks leather with the aid of gravity, hence the name. The result is a grained leather series of bags, shoes and accessories that are branded ever so lightly with the motif.
One could say that Cha's ascension into the stratosphere of fame is akin to defying gravity. Even before debuting as a member of then-sextet Astro, he was already dabbling in acting. To date, he's appeared in a couple of films and a string of series, of which the latest, Wonderful World, explored a darker side with themes of grief and revenge. Cha released his first solo EP ENTITY in February but even before that, he's lent his voice as a solo artist in a number of soundtracks.
What's next for Cha? No one really knows except the man himself. But what's for certain is that he'll be taking anything on with the spirit of a Dior man—with grace, elegance, and style.
Photography: Park Jongha
Editor: Im Geon
Styling: Lim Keon
Art Designer: Ju Jeong-hwa
Hair: Lee Il-jung
Make-up: Ahn Sung-hee
Nails: Kim Su-ji
Assistant: Kim Jung-ho
Animation: Joan Tai
After a promising menswear debut for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, creative director Sabato De Sarno is readying his sophomore menswear collection for Gucci.
The show will be staged at the Triennale Milano, a museum of art and design located in the heart of the city. The choice of venue is intended for the House to pay homage to Italian heritage of craftsmanship and innovation. And if that tells us anything at all about the upcoming collection, is that De Sarno could probably be tapping on a bit more on Gucci's place in Italian fashion and in turn, expanding on the visual vocabulary that he's been setting up the House for.
For confirmation of what the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.
What: Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Monday, 17 June 2024 at 8pm Singapore time
Miu Miu’s predominantly women-centric fashion hasn’t stopped it from encroaching into the men’s wardrobe. Those of us who lived through the 1990s may remember Miu Miu’s menswear line launched for the Spring/Summer 1999 season through to its final collection for Spring/Summer 2008. The brand has since sneakily relaunched menswear without explicitly calling it as such, but instead, began introducing a number of male models on the runway as well as offering select designs in a bigger range of sizes.
The quiet repositioning of the Miu Miu brand runs in tandem with its sneaker collaborations with New Balance. Also offered in slightly larger sizes—they go up to a IT46—each drop has progressively grown to be so coveted that they are sold out within hours on official launch days, despite the hype around sneakers no longer being what it was years ago. Miu Miu’s collaboration with Church’s that began for the Autumn/Winter 2023 season also followed suit.
The marketing strategy for Miu Miu has in turn, shifted to skew towards a genderless approach. Musician and actor Troye Sivan walked the Spring/Summer 2024 runway show, and in Singapore, the brand has expanded its roster of influencers to include those who identify as male.
As slow and steady (and subtle) as Miu Miu’s renaissance has been, it has undoubtedly worked to its favour. Like an unforgettable earworm, Miu Miu has grown to be at the top of consumers’ minds. The Lyst Index—a quarterly report of the “hottest” brands as tracked by fashion technology company Lyst—sees Miu Miu climbing up a rank, replacing sister brand Prada as the number one brand for the first quarter of 2024. It’s a stark contrast from two years ago when Miu Miu didn’t even make the list’s top 20. The brand only managed to crack the list for the last quarter of 2021 and has remained on it since.
The Lyst Index has grown to be an industry-accepted indicator of a luxury fashion brand’s popularity. The platform boasts at least 200 million users annually and is primarily used to search for fashion items across multiple e-commerce sites. Think of Lyst as the fashion equivalent of Skyscanner. A quick search on Lyst results in a seemingly endless number of, well, listings of the same item available on online stockists ranging from SSENSE to Harrods. This data is part of the information Lyst collects in order to form its quarterly The Lyst Index. Lyst also takes into account searches outside of its own platform as well as social media statistics for a more rounded view of consumer trends.
The reality is that the business of fashion isn’t a bubble contained to just how a product is moving or not. Much of a brand’s popularity is due to a combination of external factors as well. In the case of Miu Miu, its Spring/Summer 2022 collection became a kind of cultural phenomenon owed to its Noughties-inspired aesthetic of branded boxers peeking through the tiniest of bottoms. It became such a hit that the collection graced multiple editorial magazine covers and fashion spreads—the latter at times featured on hyper-masculine male models. For Halloween the year of the collection’s runway show, it became a viral sensation after recreations of the now-signature Miu Miu look made the rounds on social media.
Gucci’s ranking on The Lyst Index proves that sales figures don’t exactly maketh a brand’s popularity. The Italian fashion house maintains its 11th position on the list, buoyed by the campaign launch of creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first Ancora collection, his first menswear show in January, a Horsebit campaign featuring actor Kingsley Ben-Adir, and more. Lyst also notes a 10 per cent increase of searches (as compared to the previous quarter) for Gucci accessories among its users following the Autumn/Winter 2024 womenswear runway show in February.
However, financially, the figures tell a different story. Gucci parent company Kering Group reported an 18 per cent decline on Gucci’s revenue for the first quarter of 2024. Its revenue across its direct retail operations as well as its wholesale business both suffered a hit. At the same time, Kering Group proffers that De Sarno’s first collection (dropped from mid-February) “have been very well received, particularly in the ready-to-wear and shoes categories”—although it did not disclose the metric used to come to this conclusion.
The Lyst Index isn’t the only list that has cropped up over the years. Business of Fashion released its second The BoF Brand Magic Index co-created with data insights company Quilt.AI in May 2024. Unlike The Lyst Index’s more trend-driven metrics, The BoF Brand Magic Index identifies and ranks brands based on their impact on customers. It measures this based on three metrics—alignment (how clear a brand is to customers), engagement (how effective a brand is at inspiring customers), and intent (how effective a brand drives customers to search for it). Brands are ranked based on these individual metrics; the combined scores determine their overall ranking with the lowest total at the top. The report covers a six-month period from October 2023 to March 2024.
It’s not surprising that given the differing methodologies used in both reports, the results are different. The BoF Brand Magic Index determines the alignment metric by using Quilt.AI’s proprietary AI models that detects content by both brands and customers, categorising them based on 12 Jungian archetypes, and determine similarities between the two. It’s this consistency between brand and customer content that ranks Dior, Balmain and Tod’s as the top three for alignment—their brand values are being received and replicated by their target audience. Business of Fashion believes that “alignment is a leading indicator of commercial success” in the long-run.
Take it this way, there is reason why Beyoncé and Taylor Swift are two of the biggest musicians in the world right now. One can argue that the songs are not immediately addictive such that they would be stuck in a person’s head all the time, but the concepts and storytelling surrounding their albums draw people in. It’s this overarching narrative beyond the songs and lyrics that keep people talking and engaged. The same goes for luxury fashion. Fashion has grown to be more than just good, wearable design—how it’s being communicated and marketed play important roles on the success.
This is the reason why brands like Jacquemus and Loewe have constantly managed to be talked about both for their collections as well as the stories built around them. Jacquemus, for example, drives virality with its uniquely shaped products such as a literal Nike Swoosh crossbody bag and impossibly tiny bags that spawned a multitude of memes, while at the same time, working with artists to stir online conversations via eye-catching stunts. An eight-second clip in 2023 of vehicle-sized Jacquemus bags seen driving around Paris was so realistic (it was the work of a 3D artist) that it had people questioning if it was a real-life brand activation, because it felt pretty much in line with what Jacquemus would do.
Loewe’s consistent craft-centric approach to all it does translates exceptionally well on social media where it breaks down the make of an item—all without revealing too much of its in-house secrets—for all to witness. But at the same time, its constant dabble with the art world and surrealism allows it the freedom to not take itself too seriously. The brand has crafted a niche on TikTok where it works with content creators, giving them carte blanche to create content in their own vision. At the same time, its own campaigns aren’t typical product pushes, but instead rely on creative storytelling while embedding the collections into them.
Good design and storytelling are most often related although not necessarily so. As much as there are the Beyoncés and Taylor Swifts of the fashion world, there are the legends—the Mariah Careys, the U2s, and the Stevie Wonders that don’t necessarily partake in the hit-making agenda. Instead, they have built such strong legacies that they don’t have to market as much to be desirable. You’d go to a concert by these legendary musicians clamouring more for their best hits from decades ago than their newer releases. It’s not that the new songs are not great, but rather, the old ones carry such weight and are just so eternally beloved. And these legends were the blueprint of greatness at one point and have influenced generations after.
Hermès, Chanel and even Louis Vuitton are such brands. The latter is constantly on the top 20 of any list because it continues to enact creative change in the contemporary sense, but just like Hermès and Chanel, the Louis Vuitton name is already historically synonymous with luxury that the desirability is always top-of-mind. You don’t necessarily see Hermès and Chanel aiming to create viral content or use marketing gimmicks to draw attention—they’re just simply not on-brand.
There’s undoubtedly a need for fashion brands to be more all-rounded in their approach to create desirability in order to cut through the noise. We are living in a society where access to information is wide and getting hold of our attention increasingly becomes a difficult task as swiping through content after content has come to be almost second nature. The existing fandoms will stay for the new releases but it’s attracting a new audience to listen in and be part of the community that takes real work, especially for more contemporary brands.
Being at the top—whether it’s for the quarter or the half—is how one deciphers the position. Fashion moves at such a fast pace these days (even for luxury fashion) that the rankings can fluctuate quite dramatically. It means little to have a viral accessory or moment that spikes engagement and interest, unless a brand takes the step to develop the narrative further.
At the end of the day, it is consistency in both design and narrative that are key in creating any meaningful impact on a bigger scale and for a longer time. No brand wants to be a one-hit wonder; every brand wants an evergreen discography to bank on for years to come.
Four years into this unprecedented partnership between Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, and there are seemingly no signs of stopping the duo from creating directional collections season after season. The Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will be their eighth menswear collection together, which has seen a combination of Mrs Prada's prints and studied eccentricities with Simons' penchant for outerwear and oversized aesthetics.
But more than mere fusion of styles, the collections thus far have also been a deep dive into the Prada archives. We've seen prints being revived and remixed, and odes to shows of the past adapted into more contemporary contexts. And there's little reason to doubt that we'll be seeing more of those for this upcoming collection.
For confirmation of what the Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.
What: Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Sunday, 16 June 2024 at 8pm Singapore time
Father's Day is right around the corner—this year, it falls on Sunday, 16 June—and there's nothing like taking one day to give thanks and showing that you care to the one who often seems to bear sacrifices silently. Perhaps they're not as obvious in the way that they parent, but they're always there, an unyielding presence backing you up when you need one.
For all the fathers, dads, papas and daddies, we've curated a list of luxury pieces to help you show that they're appreciated. Or you know, treat yourself because you're a zaddy—it counts, we promise.
For the corporate dads, a versatile necktie is an indispensable wardrobe staple—one can never have too many. A well-chosen tie not only completes an outfit but also conveys a sense of style and professionalism. Available in a series of colours, Dior Men's Oblique Tie embodies elegance and modernity to transform an ordinary suit into a statement of sophistication and confidence.
Effortlessly cool, these turtle shell sunglasses not only shield eyes from UV rays but also add a touch of allure. Crafted from acetate, the bold design exudes confidence, with the Giorgio Armani marque on the temples giving an air of sophistication—if you know, you know—because being a father shouldn't mean sacrificing personal style.
The MEXICO 66 sneakers are a mainstay with their blend of classic design and contemporary flair. Crafted as part of the brand's Nippon Made series, this pair is meticulously crafted by skilled Japanese artisans. Dyes are applied by hand after construction to give each piece a truly unique character—variations in materials and dye create a spectrum of hues, ensuring no two shoes are alike.
A timeless bracelet for the subtly bold gentleman. Fred reintroduces the iconic Force 10 XL buckle, adorned with 68 Pavé black diamonds against a black titanium finish and paired with a matching cable. It's not really the bling that matters on this one, but rather, the wisdom that's reflected in the tone-on-tone treatment—true style savants know that a statement piece doesn't need to shout all the time.
Blackcurrant and Cédrat intertwine in an invigorating blend, reminiscent of daybreak by the ocean in Louis Vuitton's Pacific Chill cologne. Perfect for summer, this fragrance offers a refreshing aroma amid the sweltering heat, evoking the regenerative vigour of the infinite ocean. Moreover, once the fragrance is all used up, it can be refilled in stores, making this a sustainable gift choice for Father’s Day.
There's no shame in hair loss at all. After all, it is a common issue as we age, often exacerbated by stress and lack of sleep (also known as "adulting"). Care for his hair with Sisley's Hair Rituel Revitalizing Fortifying Serum that promises to enhance hair body and strength by targeting the scalp and hair fibre. The serum contains an anti-aging extract from einkorn wheat, which fortifies hair strands and enhances their resilience, while the new Densifying Complex combines two active ingredients specifically formulated to support fine hair lacking density and aid in restructuring.
A watch conveys a man's style and confidence. The right timepiece shows that he is comfortable with his fashion choices and has a keen eye for detail—the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere is one of those. This iteration is limited to 1,990 pieces and is inspired by South Pole explorations. It features Montblanc’s automatic movement with the Manufacture Worldtime complication, Calibre MB 29.25, showing time around the world through luminescent turning globes. Additionally, the timepiece boasts an iced blue sfumato glacier pattern dial and a matching bi-directional anodised aluminium bezel, with a stunning case back that features a 3D laser engraving of the Aurora Australis.
A softly structured tote made in Italy from calf suede and lined with matching material, this spacious Burberry tote is the kind of dump-it-all bag every man requires. The bag boasts the signature ‘b’ closure of the Rocking Horse series and is adorned with smooth calf leather panels and top handles. It is a perfect blend of practicality and class and is sure to be quite the classic piece he'd use for anything from the office to a business trip.
A wallet always makes for a useful and functional gift, but that doesn't mean that you have to stick to the good ol' black or brown variations. Crafted from soft grained calfskin, this bifold wallet by Loewe boasts an olive colour and showcases an embossed Anagram logo. It includes four card slots, two large bill slots, and a coin compartment with a snap button closure.
This tumbled leather belt adds an athletic edge to everyday outfits. The Stone Island logo is subtle and the opaque varnished metal buckle makes for the perfect accessory to create a seamless, clean look. And who couldn't use a belt that can be worn with just about any outfit?
Depending on the nature and mechanics of a fashion brand, a creative director has but two key chances to debut—one for a womenswear collection, and one for menswear. Gucci’s return to separate runway shows for its main seasonal collections (since the Autumn/Winter 2023 season) afforded Sabato De Sarno with such a luxury.
Having said that, first impressions are still weighed heavily and critically in fashion. De Sarno’s official debut was Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection and it was an expectantly different aesthetic from the House’s previous creative director. Called “Ancora”, the collection alluded to the Italian word’s multiple meanings, mainly “again” (a reiteration of House codes), “more” (a desire that De Sarno wants to evoke) as well as Gucci’s own interpretation, “also now, also then” as a metaphor for the continued reverence of its heritage and the possibilities of the future.
The Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was an aesthetically pared back collection that saw a shift from excessive embellishments to focused cuts and silhouettes. De Sarno envisions a Gucci that relies less on the pomp and circumstance of abject eccentricity. This new Gucci—or is it born-again Gucci?—seemed to take its cues from what a young, modern Italian woman would want in her wardrobe. The collection was a dialogue of what was already happening on the streets albeit elevated and made more luxurious with its use of materials.
It’s inevitable that the receptions were split. Coming off the heels of a predecessor continuously credited with the House’s contemporary revival is no walk in the park, especially when the new direction is far removed from that of the past seven years. But what many fail to understand is that a creative direction isn’t born from just one single collection alone—it takes time to cook.
And cook De Sarno did.
If the Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection was an appetiser in De Sarno’s Gucci, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection is the main course. It is ‘meatier’ with menswear proposals that offer newness without the need to shout, while at the same time, grounded by a sense of approachability. One doesn’t need to be a style maven or have a certain kind of inclination to partake in Gucci any more. There’s a sense of that oft-used adage in fashion: wear the clothes, don’t let the clothes wear you.
The show had a rather diverse celebrity guest list that reflected the collection’s more malleable personality. Idris Elba’s imposing stature lent a gentlemanly presence to an all-over GG monogram coat, Elliot Page kept things simple and chic with a tailored base under a blouson, Jay Park bravely showed off chest tattoos by going bare under a bomber jacket (it was still winter at the time of the show), and Gucci campaign star Kingsley Ben-Adir finished his Canadian tuxedo with Ancora red Horsebit loafers. Save for the Gucci-branded elements in their ensembles, everyone looked characteristically different, each wearing Gucci their own way.
That is not to say that the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection lacks a style point-of-view—that’s hardly the case. Like for his debut, De Sarno presented a clean slate focused on impeccably tailored pieces and in colours that aren’t out of the reach of the average man. Tailored trousers are slim and end right at the ankle, effectively lengthening the legs. Suit blazers and coats feature classic, strong shoulders, while other outerwear in the collection have slightly dropped shoulders and are cut decidedly oversized. There’s nary a sneaker in sight; variations of the Horsebit loafers showcase the design’s versatility as it’s manipulated with different embellishments, heels, and outsoles to exude different vibes.
As cliché as it may sound, the devil is in the details. Monochromatic suiting feature intentional deep creases at points where they would have eventually formed with wear. The collection’s defining accessory, De Sarno’s take on the cravat, consists of a long strip of fabric wrapped around the neck and secured by metal hardware. The details continue at the back—outerwear vents reveal Gucci’s signature tricoloured webbing, leather jackets are embossed with “Gucci” at the hem, and even socks give peeks of webbing at the heel.
There is a studied intention in the way that De Sarno executed the collection. The details all call to a more subtle Gucci. Sure, the GG monogram remains a prevalent branding device and appears in a trio of in-your-face looks within the collection, but they are only a small portion and still done very elegantly. The rest of the collection is an emphasis on Gucci’s heritage and leitmotifs that have gone on to become timeless icons.
Speaking of timeless icons, the Jackie bag is reenvisioned in a proportionally more masculine size. The extra-large upgrade retains every single element of De Sarno’s iteration of the Jackie, including the new hook closure that differentiates itself from the piston closure of the Jackie 1961 series as well as the original. It’s clear that De Sarno intends for the hook closure to become a new Gucci signature, much like the horsebit. It is positioned as the aforementioned metal hardware of the collection’s neck accessory and also incorporated into a new leather crossbody bag. The latter is a more minimal version of the Jackie—a similar crescent-shaped silhouette but in a softer construction and without too many frills—with a top zipped closure, taken from the House’s archives.
De Sarno is undoubtedly crafting a Gucci that is centred on timeless elegance. In place of the shock factor that its previous creative director had created time after time—something that eventually became a rather predictable modus operandi—De Sarno is reenforcing Gucci’s tailoring and craftsmanship as well as house icons while introducing new ones. And most importantly, he is priming these signatures to be relevant not just for now but for years to come. Isn’t that a good thing to have once again?
It began with a challenge from the TUDOR Pro Cycling team: design a watch capable of enduring the demands of professional cycling whilst remaining a realistic option for the road. What came after is the birth of the Pelagos FXD Chrono "Cycling Edition".
“If you know what you want to be, then you inevitably become it.”
– Oscar Wilde.
The latest addition to the Pelagos FXD catalogue mirrors the very DNA of the world’s fastest bikes. Featuring a 43mm matte-finished case crafted from carbon composite, it's akin to the carbon fibre found in high-speed bicycles. The integration of titanium elements promises greater robustness to the timepiece, preparing it for even the most extreme circumstances.
The “Cycling Edition” of the Pelagos FXD Chrono graduates from its nautical predecessor by introducing a cyclist-focused tachymeter scale tuned specifically for speeds relevant to cycling, rather than that of cars. A fixed 60-minute bezel wraps around the scale to thoughtfully direct focus to the home of the watch. There, a black dial sits with striking red accents to ensure legibility at first glance.
Peer beneath the surface of crystals and carbon and you’ll find the Manufacture Calibre MT5813. This is the same pulsating movement that gave life to the first FXD Chronograph. Featuring an automatic 4Hz movement, it offers a suite of complications including a 45-minute counter, date, and stop-seconds for precise time-setting. Its power reserve of 70 hours coupled with 100m of water resistance makes it a reliable partner suitable for any occasion.
As we journey through the years, certain iconic dad styles—particularly from the '80s and '90s—have stood the test of time as symbols of fashion heritage. From the sharp suits of the past to today's relaxed casual wear, there's a unique sense to the evolution of dad style. What makes it so cool? Perhaps it's the nonchalant attitude towards fashion that fathers seem to effortlessly embody. As Father's Day approaches, we take a look at some dad style (or dadcore) trends that continue to thrive in the fashion world.
Amid the burgeoning of athleisure oin the '80s, "dad shoes" emerged, prioritising function over form. They captured the attention of dads and everyone else who valued practicality. The '90s then saw these shoes taking on bulkier and seemingly less fashionable versions. Today, revitalised by brands the likes of Yeezy and Balenciaga, "dad shoes" have enjoyed newfound popularity. With its continued momentum, there's no doubt that there'll be newer releases of fresh iterations alongside timeless classics from Nike, Reebok, and New Balance.
Jorts—short for jean shorts—surged in popularity last year, possibly owed to TikTok. Picture Adam Sandler for the vibe—they hit just above or below the knee, embodying that awkward sense of dad-like modesty. While hardly ever deemed cool, they've eventually become a summer staple. Even brands like Acne Studios and Bottega Veneta have embraced the style, solidifying its status as part of menswear's lexicon. After all, mastering dadcore is all about letting go of the traditional "cool" factor while effortlessly maintaining a sort of devil-may-care aesthetic.
For the sporty dads, wraparound sunglasses are more than just eyewear: they're a symbol of practicality and understated coolness. Originally designed for athletic pursuits, they have since become synonymous with the dad aesthetic. The '90s witnessed a creative reinterpretation of these sunglasses as partygoers recontextualised their light-shielding prowess to navigate the neon-lit dance floors of the era. Today, their versatility and function-first appeal can be seen from festival-dressing to futuristic style leanings.
Once synonymous with the business of golf and tennis, polo shirts have undergone an evolution from a dad's wardrobe staple to a versatile essential. They were most recently embraced by the younger generations through the surge of the "old money" trend, featuring prep-era fashion notably exemplified by Ralph Lauren. Their casual yet polished aesthetic renders them suitable for a myriad of occasions, from casual Fridays at the office to weekend brunches.
Oversized blazers, once emblematic of dad's penchant for investment pieces no matter how wrongly sized, have found unexpected resonance among younger audiences. These oversized, boxy blazers are now statement pieces, challenging traditional notions of fit and silhouette in menswear. Contempoary purveyors of oversized blazers include brands like Saint Laurent, AMI, Dries Van Noten, and Gucci—all of which return to the silhouette time and time again. If that's not a sign that dad's are actually fashionable, we don't know what is.
Each facet of dad fashion serves as a testament to the enduring legacy of paternal influence on style. So here's to the dads who effortlessly blend comfort with class, (unknowingly) leaving an indelible mark on fashion for generations to come.
What do you do when you're an artist fascinated with the past, present and future? You poetically merge all three to fuel your art. New York-based artist Daniel Arsham is celebrated for crafting modern-looking artifacts or figures that appear eroded, mimicking the effect of casts being burried for centuries. Future relics, if you will. Given his penchant for time, it makes sense that his next project will involve a watch brand like Hublot. The matrimony between his artistic perspective and Hublot's technical expertise yields something that feels modern and otherworldly, the Arsham Droplet.
The Arsham Droplet reimagines the classic pocket watch by building on antique forms using the latest production methods and materials. These updates challenge watchmaking norms, fashioning a timepiece that looks straight out of Ex Machina. Drawing inspiration from nature's water elements, the Arsham Droplet employs titanium, rubber, and sapphire crystal to create a tactile experience that feels like whatever the antithesis of grasping water is.
True to the concept of fluidity, the Arsham Droplet can be shown off in more ways than one. As a necklace to a pocket watch, or displayed as a statement piece on its titanium and mineral glass table stand, Hublot’s patented double "one-click" system ensures seamless attachment.
A timepiece without a heart is merely a shell and the Arsham Droplet comes alive with Hublot's Meca-10 manufacture movement. It flaunts an impressive 10-day power reserve shielded by two domed teardrop-shaped sapphire crystals measuring 73.2mm in length and 52.6 mm in width. Fortified with a titanium case and a custom Arsham green rubber bumper, it's double encased with 17 O-ring seals to ensure nothing contaminates the quiet and intimate environment of the calibre. Featuring Hublot's signature H-shaped screws, the pocket watch bears a stamp of the artist's monogram on its crystal surface. Adding to the Arsham Droplet's theme, it has a water resistance of 30m, impressive for a pocket watch this intricate.
Given the complicated construction of the Arsham Droplet, it's no surprise it's limited to just 99 pieces world-wide.
