Versace is typically not one to quickly hop onto trends or care much about the shifts in consumer tastes. It marches to its own beat—coming up with a new-ish monogram, La Greca, only in 2021 (well after other brands) but relatively sticking to its signature Barocco prints, Medusa logo, and sexually charged designs.
It's surprising then that for Spring/Summer 2024, Donatella Versace decided to do a 180 with a collection that's representative of a return to minimalism—or that often misused phrase, "quiet luxury"—but done the Versace way. To be fair, this wasn't the first instance of Donatella going rogue with a rather minimalist collection. This is, however, perhaps her most successful execution yet.
The fit: The show opened with luxurious duchess silks adorned with the Versace Contrasto Checkerboard—a pattern that debuted in Spring/Summer 1982—in varying sizes and later paired with utilitarian pieces the likes of a perfectly cut trench and multi-pocketed gilet. They were simply teasers of what's to come: a skilful combination of tailoring and Versace motifs rendered in pastel hues.
The checked and square motifs continued on in multiple fabrications including wool crepe tweed. In some instances, checkerboard prints were layered with signature Barocco prints as well as a Versace Rose motif but in quite muted monochromatic renderings such that they weren't fighting for attention.
The focus on cut and tailoring were evident for the Versace Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Lines were sharp and clean with nipped in waists and three-dimensional sculptural shoulder moments that elevated the level of craft and construction further. In look 69 (the most minimal menswear look of the lot) for example, an impeccably tailored jacket with flared trousers showcased the peak of Versace tailoring but at the same time exuded a timeless aesthetic. It's highly edited and pared back, yes; yet the Versace man still exudes a sexy confidence.
The details: There's no denying that there were semblances of Miu Miu and Prada stylings—it's difficult to not reference the of-the-moment combinations, especially when taking on a minimalist approach. But again, Donatella made them her own. The peeking of underwear under trousers, scoop-neck tanks and fine gauge knit cardigans (both interpreted with gorgeous macramé Barocco borders) were reworked codes of Versace sensuality.
There were hints of a feminine-masculine tension that skewed in neither direction yet showed that the Versace man wouldn't be fazed even if it did. He's that confident.
Three exceptional looks: Look 12's maroon leather suit that's a stunning showcase of leather tailoring; the pastel blue mod-tailoring in look 23 with that clever styling of unbuttoning the last few buttons to show a hint of skin and underwear; and look 73's excellent tailoring.
The takeaway: This is how you do timeless, elegant minimalism while evolving house codes without looking like the next Zara collection.
View the full Versace Spring/Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
There was no doubt that Burberry chief creative officer Daniel Lee's first showing for the British brand was a stark departure from predecessor Riccardo Tisci's.
The debut—a collection that we're finally able to experience in boutiques now—was a return to Burberry's Britishness, replete with elements and motifs ripped from Lee's lived experiences as a Brit as well as from the brand's archives. The Burberry check was rendered at a slant and blown up (a simple but effective way of modernising the brand signifier) and the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) revived as a complementary branding device.
For the Burberry Summer 2024 collection, Lee continued to reimagine the brand's heritage with an even more focused lens. Building a new visual vocabulary for a brand like Burberry is no mean feat. With the second runway collection, we're starting to see the fruits of that labour.
If the Winter 2024 collection was a foundational collection that at times may have seemed a bit chaotic—a mallard beanie and a cacophony of visuals ranging from roses to more mallards to the EKD—the Summer 2024 collection felt more intentional and evolved. Surprisingly, the latter was more subdued and less colourful than the debut. In fact, the 'knight blue' that Lee has adopted for Burberry was little to be seen on the runway.
The fit: The overall colour palette for the collection was relatively quite dark. Instead of knight blue, colours graduated from black to a dark green before branching off to richer hues.
Yet, at the same time, prints were a key focus of the collection. What appeared as though vintage scarf prints lifted from the Burberry archives were actually prints of metal hardware in the shape of a horse—part of the Knight bag introduced for Winter 2023—and chains. Similarly, a repeated motif of the clasp of the Rocking Horse bag too appeared as a print. Both prints adorned a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including a new take on the classic Burberry trench. Lee's intent was to reimagine the trench for the summer and that included making it more lightweight than ever—in look 47, the trench could be seen hung by the neck simply by a thin chain.
What I especially liked about Burberry Summer 2024 was how Lee doubled down on the brand's military past. And while that could have resulted in quite costume-y creations, the ready-to-wear looked simply at home. Epaulettes on shirting as well as outerwear extended well beyond the shoulder line, while the trench coats cut a sharp, regimental silhouette while still retaining a sense of modernity with a dropped waist and exaggerated belt.
The details: Lee may have kept the tailoring sharp but he injected off-kilter semblances in the styling as well as accessories. The collection's slip-ons for example (looks 41 and 45) were doused in rhinestones with the EKD fixed like one would a Crocs Jibbitz. Leather loafers were crafted with an extended leather buckle in the shape of the Burberry Shield bag and topped with the EKD. It's these constant details that help drive the message of the new subtle visual vocabulary of Lee's Burberry.
Three exceptional looks: The ease and simplicity of look 16's black fit embellished with cleverly printed trousers; look 23's printed coordinates that could easily be broken up into pieces that could stand on their own; and look 45's new take of dressed up casual in classic Christopher Bailey-era hues.
The takeaway: Burberry is back to being refined with doses of unexpected quirks—a truly Brit aesthetic.
View the full Burberry Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.
It's the official end of an era. Creative director Sarah Burton is parting ways from Alexander McQueen—a fashion house that she's worked for for close to three decades, of which the past 13 years had been at its creative helm.
"I am so proud of everything I've done and of my incredible team at Alexander McQueen. They are my family, and this has been my home for the past 26 years. I want to thank Francois-Henri Pinault for believing in me and offering me this amazing opportunity. Above all I want to thank Lee Alexander McQueen. He taught me so much and I am eternally grateful to him. I am looking forward to the future and my next chapter and will always carry this treasured time with me," reads Burton's statement.
The end of Burton's time with Alexander McQueen means that, for the first time, the creative reins could potentially be handed over to someone outside of Lee McQueen's circle. Before being appointed as creative director, Burton was considered to be McQueen's right-hand person and the only one possible to carry on the legacy of the house as well as its founder.
McQueen may be more famously known for his otherworldly and provocative creations on the runway (more so evident on his womenswear collections) but Savile Row techniques and constructions were key tenets of his menswear. Tailoring was often the foundation of every McQueen-designed Alexander McQueen menswear collection that were then embellished with disparate elements and flourishes. Burton continued the execution. Eventually, the menswear evolved in tandem with its womenswear counterpart, creating a cohesive vision that partly contributed to Alexander McQueen becoming one of Kering's big moneymakers.
Burton is scheduled to take her final bow during Paris Fashion Week later this month. But before that, we look back at her evolution of Alexander McQueen's menswear aesthetic to become the force of craftsmanship and creativity that we know today.
The early collections of Burton's Alexander McQueen menswear focused on McQueen's Scottish roots as well as elements of Britishness. The silhouettes were kept quite conventional but often peppered with instances of exaggerated volume and deconstruction.
Flora and fauna were highly favoured elements of McQueen. Burton started incorporating them into the menswear universe through prints and embroidery—the former gave rise to insect wings that adorned suiting in a myriad of colours and combinations.
Suiting and tailoring began to take a turn with conventional colours and minimalism substituted for mosaic-like prints as well as traditional jacquard and heritage patterns. This was the beginning of a more vibrant interpretation of tailoring.
While embellishments weren't completely new for Alexander McQueen menswear, Burton began to include more metallic beading and embroidery—amping up the level of craftsmanship in the house's menswear pieces. They were starkly employed against dark fabrications and often juxtaposed with streamlined cuts.
Tailoring evolved to include bolder prints that seemed to envelope the entirety of a look. At the same time, Burton nipped waists and offered elegance in the form of cuttingly sharp tailoring.
The house's Britishness was never lost, however. Opting to continuously include typically British motifs—elements of regimental military uniforms as well as fabrications—Burton grounded them with sneakers and more contemporary touches.
The level of craftsmanship exploded with embroidery becoming a key focus. Not only were they employed throughout each and every piece, they were styled with accessories and jewellery to match—a sort of more-is-more aesthetic that came across as haute-couture punk.
Sportier elements of dress were given the Alexander McQueen treatment of exploding sleeves and deconstructed-constructions. Everyday pieces like knitwear and function-first utilitywear took on avant-garde forms that added on to the creative vision of the house.
Gender lines may not have been a consideration for any Alexander McQueen creation—pre- and post-McQueen—but it became increasingly evident with the inclusion of dress-like ensembles incorporated into menswear. Softer elements of flou became quite commonplace too, running in tandem with an increased focus on couture-level embellishments.
Burton's final few menswear collections capture the essence of her time at Alexander McQueen. The blurring of gender, a steely focus on craft techniques as well tailoring at the heart of it all have been continuously refined. There's a certain element of timelessness to the creations, marked by distinctive leitmotifs—the harness and the streamlined silhouette, for example—that have become characteristically Alexander McQueen.
Walk into the Suitsupply store at ION Orchard and the tailor's station positioned in the middle would immediately catch your attention. There's no mistaking that Suitsupply is serious about suits—an affordable range of everyday and occasion-ready tailoring made from Italian mills-sourced fabrics. The tailor's station is a key asset to ensure that the made-to-measure pieces fit perfectly. Surrounding it however, are the brand's ready-to-wear pieces and accessories that complement its main tailored options.
The overall look doesn't stray too far from Suitsupply's elegant tailoring. The ready-to-wear collection is made from the same quality Italian fabrics as its suits with the cut and make meant to work seamlessly with the made-to-measure tailoring. At the same time, they're contemporary enough to be integrated into one's existing wardrobe. Consider them as elevated wardrobe staples—easy to wear and classically stylish all the same.
With plenty of events lined up in the coming months—whether you're sitting at the grandstand of the Singapore Grand Prix or watching acts the likes of Kodaline and Charlie Puth—here's an edit of just some Suitsupply pieces to look and feel good for exact those moments.
Leave the navies, blacks and whites. Choose between a dark brown or mint green slim-fit shirt to make a statement without opting for something completely out of the norm. Or, you know, get them both because they're made from pure linen—you'd put them on rotation for everything from the beach to a dinner party.
The perfect pair of sneakers doesn't exist. But Suitsupply gets it close with this suede pair that's made to be worn with sartorial-laced pieces. The details are kept minimal but when you're looking for something that sits stylishly between formal and casual, this would be it.
Even if you won't be making use of the thoughtfully roomy patch pockets on this pair of shorts, the detail adds a utilitarian touch perfect to be paired with the plainest of tops. The subtle Herringbone pattern ensures that it's still a sartorial piece dressy enough for most situations.
This buttonless polo shirt—in a mint blue that's a key colour for Suitsupply this season—simplifies the look of the humble polo, with the ribbed detailing offering visual interest and comfort. Wear this on its own or layered under a denim jacket and you're good to go.
You'd need a pair of these whether you're standing for hours on end at the standing pen or making that quick dash from meetings to meetings in the city. The calf suede and mesh detailing ensures that the level of sophistication remains no matter the outfit pairing.
Not only is this pair of shorts made from stretch cotton (giving you that little bit of give for extra comfort), the cuffed hem and double pleats offer a more elevated look even when you're just sitting poolside. Wear this with anything from your favourite leather sandals to a well-beaten pair of sneakers.
A camp collar shirt has become a quintessential part of a man's wardrobe. This Suitsupply version is made out of a seersucker fabric perfect for all-year-round humidity. Style one as is or over a tank and complete with a pair of black tailored trousers for an undoubtedly chic look.
For the full Suitsupply range, visit the boutique at 03-15 ION Orchard.
Will Poulter has had a very busy year. Before he was cheffing it up at Noma as Luca on The Bear, the 30-year-old British actor was getting the Marvel treatment as Adam Warlock in Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3. Before that, he was a front-row favourite at fashion week, a demigod fallen from grace on magazine covers, a social media trending topic garnering every reaction from thirst-tweets to “Wait, this is the kid with the eyebrows from We’re The Millers now?”. When he hopped on a call with me at the tail-end of a long day in Budapest, where he’s working on a SAG-waived project; just before that, he starred in the autumn/winter ‘23 campaign for COS, looking sharp and graceful, a tousled prince straight out of a Friedrich painting.
“To be honest, I have a bit of impostor syndrome when it comes to doing this sort of stuff, but I feel so grateful,” Poulter says. It’s slightly jarring, how warm and humble he is on the phone—for someone with that bone structure, who has played several villainous roles in the past that well, Poulter is delightfully charming and sweet, completely opposite to some of his most well-known roles.
“This was just a really cool, full circle moment for me, because I think genuinely, when I first started taking an interest in fashion, COS was something that felt elevated but affordable,” he says. “So it was something I kind of aspired to wear and saved up for and did wear, and I always felt really good in it. I always appreciated the simplicity of their designs and how thoughtful all of their clothing was. And to do a campaign for a brand you've been a longterm fan of is very cool.”
The campaign, shot by Daniel Jackson, pictures Poulter in stark black-and-white or warm sepia, a 6-foot-2 vision of timeless tailoring and understated elegance. He inhabits the entire frame of every shot with an unapologetic self-possession that could only come from a 16-year career as encompassing and expansive as his has been, hair ruffled just-so, eyes never wavering from the camera lens.
“In my scenario, it's very rare that I see a photo of myself and I'm like, ‘I like that,’” says Poulter. “But with Daniel, it's like, ‘Oh, actually, I'm more than comfortable with it.’ And that's a nice position to be in.”
Poulter wears the clothes as naturally as a second skin, perhaps because his own personal style is a conglomeration of precise tailoring, timeless pieces, and classic cuts, too. “It’s kind of understated,” he says, “but I like to be thoughtful where possible, so I don’t like to wear anything just for the sake of it.”
That much is evident, even if you’ve only seen one or two pictures of Poulter’s street style. His closet is no stranger to a neatly cut blazer or a long coat with proportional lapels. Fashion, he says, is something he’s always had an interest in; what started with taking cues from his favourite movies and TV shows evolved into gravitating towards characters and roles that reminded him of the ones he grew up with, the ones that influenced his long-standing relationship with style. He credits now-retired Arsenal legend Ian Wright as his number one style icon of all time (and adds that he’s the kind of person who would “look fantastic in COS”), and praises the understated, cool approach to layering Wright has.
“I think developing a relationship with fashion is about what makes you feel good and also an extension of how you express yourself has been something that I've come to terms with maybe a little bit later in life, or as my relationship to fashion has evolved,” he says. “And I think I've also been encouraged to take a few more chances as well, and be a bit braver and bolder. But generally, I do err on the side of understated, and I think when something's well-made and in a colour that you like, really, you don't have to get much more complicated about it than that.”
The mark of a true menswear nerd, though, is knowing it’s all in the details. Poulter, a sneakerhead himself, doesn’t just leave his outfits at a matching shirt, pant, and shoe—it’s about the fit, too. “I think pants or trouser length is very important, depending on what kind of shoe you're wearing,” he advises.
Unlike the masses of celebrities who know a thing or two about fashion posting fit pics on your feed, Poulter isn’t dropping his latest looks to the 'Gram. You wouldn’t know, from a quick search of his socials, that he’s armoured with an arsenal of tailoring tips and sneaker scrutinies. That’s because, as far back as you can scroll, he takes to social media only as an advocate.
His Instagram highlights are a quartet of posts from the past three years, platforming various Black-owned businesses, charities, and causes; on his feed, he’s spreading information on how to donate to earthquake survivors in Syria, or victims of state-sponsored homophobic violence, or foundations that are working to combat the climate crisis.
“I just have a lot of respect for people who do the work that I choose to platform on my social media,” he says. “I think that probably emanates from the fact that my family are medics and caretakers and educators and volunteers.”
Most recently, Poulter partnered with The Reuse Research campaign, which funds cancer research through clothing donations to UK charity shops. The campaign encourages people to be thoughtful about their clothes, and instead of throwing them away, it urges participation in a more circular, sustainable economy powered by donations.
“Being an actor, there's only so much impact I can make,” says Poulter. “I just found [this] to be the best use of my social media platform, because there's more attention being directed my way than there is any of my family members in their roles. And that's wrong in many senses, so it's a way of tipping the balance somewhat, and also just making sure that I'm trying to maximise the potential of my impact.”
Originally published: Esquire US
Walk into the Hermès flagship store in New York and you’ll think you’ve gate-crashed a Supermarket Sweep for millionaires. The well-turned-out shoppers seem primed to drag an arm across a shelf, gathering as many pieces as possible from one of luxury’s oldest brand names. Naturally, there are more restraints—and significantly fewer shopping carts—in this 20,000 square foot temple of tastefulness, which opened on the Upper East Side last October.
“The store is really a masterpiece,” says Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of the Hermès men’s universe since 2008. “For a big store, it feels really intimate.” it is a means to highlight Hermès' superb menswear, which Nichanian has been overseeing for a staggering 35 years, beginning in 1988 when she was appointed artistic director of men's ready-to-wear. In any industry, longevity like that is unusual. She is a unicorn in terms of style. Hermès men's has evolved under her leadership from the bougie bon chic, bon genre style of the late 1980s—all blazers, suits, and patterned city-boy ties—to relaxed, contemporary apparel and accessories fit for a hangout session that just so happens to take place on a private jet.
“For me, more and more, it’s about simplicity,” Nichanian says. “I’ve always loved working with materials, with cloth. I like simple shapes. But I find that men have really changed, too; they are more and more into clothing that is relaxed. Wearing a suit and a tie is no longer by obligation; now it’s a choice, a pleasure. So men are broadening and investing in their casual wardrobes like never before.”
It’s easy to believe, with a grand old name like Hermès—with its silk scarves and Birkin bags and iconic orange packaging—that you’re buying into a vision of permanent Frenchness here, something stuffy even. Not so. “I never really liked that traditional bourgeois view at all,” Nichanian explains. “I think it’s vital to move, inject colour, play, twist things to surprise people. We always do things at Hermès with a sense of humour, lightness, and charm.”
The men's summer 2023 collection, which was revealed in Paris in June, is a confirmation of the air of sophisticated, contemporary elegance that permeates Hermès under Nichanian's direction. The company, which is getting close to its bicentennial, sees itself as a conduit to modern excellent taste rather than fighting change. It is not trendy, but it is unquestionably in style.
Much of the appeal comes from the makeup of the clothes. For summer, there’s near-weightless construction, unimpeachable quality, and colours rarely associated with men’s fashion. Nichanian uses the word légèreté, or lightness, frequently in our conversation, which jumps between French and English. The concept matters just as much emotionally as physically. “I really wanted to give the collection a real sense of lightness, a feeling of escape,” she says. “The world feels heavy at the moment; I think men need summer clothes that feel less urban. There was a lot of inspiration in David Hockney’s art for me—all that California light, those swimming pools, things seen refracted through water—that provided a sense of fluidity, even a sense of humor.”
That playfulness is discreet. You may see an understated H embossed on a leather bag or a belt here and there. But that’s pretty much it. “We’ve been doing things a certain way for nearly two hundred years. We don’t need to put big logos on everything,” Nichanian says. “People talk about Hermès with a real sense of reverence but also with a real fondness—a certain joie de vivre—compared to many other big brands, which I think personally take themselves far too seriously. Of course, business is business, and brands are like people at the end of the day—each to his own, you know. For us, Hermès is all about its personality.”
Photography by Jason Kibbler
Styling by Nick Sullivan
Grooming by Kevin Ryan for Ludlow Blunt salon
Model: Hamid Onifade for DNA Model Management
This story originally appeared in the April/May 2023 issue of ESQUIRE magazine
Originally published on Esquire US
It's not that there's nothing sexy about Hermès; there's nothing explicitly or brashly so about the storied luxury house. For spring/summer 2024, longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian pushed the limits of what we know of Hermès with a play on summer sensuality by way of layered contrasts and lots of skin.
There's an architectural element to the spring/summer 2024 menswear collection that's reflected in the staging of the show. Nichanian intended the clothes to act as architecture, from which the body became the foundation.
Models appeared from behind openwork screens resembling the graph-like fabrics that ran rampant throughout the collection. Lightweight—and at times, translucent—fabrications were layered atop of each while modestly revealing skin, especially in the collection's lighter hues.
But what was the most surprising element of the show were the shorts. Nichanian opted for shorts with inseams that couldn't be longer than five inches. It's quite possibly the shortest that Hermès has ever gone when it comes to the length of shorts. It's hardly anything to complain about given the heatwave we've been experiencing, but for Hermès, it's quite a big deal.
The fit: With the short shorts, the revealing of skin was still done tastefully—the Hermès way. The shorts were crafted from a range of cotton blends as well as technical fabrics. They were designed with elasticated waistbands that still featured belt loops for an elevated look and for the added style option of wearing one with a belt (or two as they're styled).
The entire spring/summer 2024 menswear collection felt free in a sense that nothing felt constricted. Silhouettes consisted of roomy cut shirts and blousons with trousers that range from slim- (but not excessively so) to wide-cut that were all elasticised at the waist.
The details: The opening look included a Haut à Courroies bag that was treated as though it's been weathered out in the sun. A slight imprint of the bag's lock, clochette as well as its flaps were done in a subtle tonal variation—a beautiful rendition to a classic icon.
The collection's double étrivière belts—essentially fitted with buckles that resemble stirrups—were some of the more inspired elements in the collection. They're connected in the middle by a chain that added some edge, and recalls the more punk-esque autumn/winter 2023 menswear collection presented earlier this year.
Three exceptional looks: Look 6's easy, summer fit that featured the collection's shorts as well as a crinkled blazer topped off with a roped tote bag; look 25's option of layering pretty much the same outfit as in look 6, with a deliciously oversized shortened parka; and look 46's knit-layering masterclass.
The takeaway: Showing off skin tastefully is an art.
View the full Hermès spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
It would have been easy to make his fifth anniversary as artistic director of Dior Men all about him. And it would've been justifiable too, seeing how Kim Jones has continuously crafted collection after collection of menswear offerings while tapping into Dior's archives and haute couture sensibilities. Jones' inclination to collaborate with other brands, designers, and artists have also helped widened Dior Men's reach.
Yet, the Dior Men spring/summer 2024 collection was far from an ego trip.
True to form, Jones once again referenced Dior's storied history. "Dior is an haute couture house: it is all about the clothes. At the heart of Dior is silhouette, shape, technique and fabrication of the very highest order," says Jones in the collection notes. "It's a culture we have inherited from womenswear past and applied to menswear present. And for the first time in our collections, it is a collage of influences from different Dior predecessors and eras we wanted to pay tribute to at once—together with some of our own. All are connected through texture and technique alongside some of the Dior pop icons, particularly the Cannage."
The show's staging seemed to suggest—on his fifth anniversary no less; a feat that not many can claim in fashion nowadays—that Jones was leaving it all out in the open. The entirety of the collection's 51 looks ascended from below the tiled floor and models stood waiting for their turn to walk along the grid's perimeter. There was no pretence in the spring/summer 2024 collection—no surprises, just well executed designs that cemented the Dior Men canon he's crafted five years ago.
The fit: Jones referenced a quartet of the house's former creative heads for the Dior Men spring/summer 2024 collection. Yves Saint Laurent's silhouettes were the guiding principle in the collection's look, particularly in the effortless, sweeping tailoring brought about by trousers cropped slightly above the ankles and at times designed with pleats for added volume. The collection's defining piece, the cardigan, was casually draped over shoulders in multiple variations of Cannage tweeds, Gianfranco Ferré-inspired ornate embellishments as well as dripping cabochons—the latter a Monsieur Dior nod.
Marc Bohan's play of textures informed the tactile elements of the collection. Tweed was the main vehicle used across a variety of pieces, expanding its use from just the traditional. It was seen on everything from summer-appropriate vests to all manner of the collection's bags and accessories, especially the iconic Saddle.
The details: Loafers—tweed or otherwise—were stamped with a new circular Dior logo derived from the Lady Dior hardware. The logo appeared as buckles on a number of bags too. Sandwich bags crafted in a selection of the collection's key fabrications would most likely be the novelty accessory of the season, and was most beautifully executed in supple leather decorated with the Cannage motif. The eye-catching beanies seen on a number of models, incorporated ronghua right in the centre. These velvet flowers were crafted by master craftsmen in the trade who worked closely with the Dior ateliers.
Three exceptional looks: Look 7's stunning Cannage tweed coat in signature Dior grey and paired with a pop of bold colour in the form of a beanie; the tailoring in look 31 that incorporated a bowtie appliqué on a pocket of the three-buttoned blazer; and the closing look 51 that was dripping with cabochons paired with high-fluo pink.
The takeaway: Who needs a collaboration when the past offers so much inspiration and content to remix for the now?
View the full Dior Men spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
It was five years ago that artistic director Kim Jones presented his very first runway collection for Dior Men. The collection marked a turning point for the house's menswear universe with Jones adapting Christian Dior's women-centric creations and haute couture techniques for men. And of course, it heralded a time of collaborations with partners outside of the realm of fashion.
The Dior Men spring/summer 2024 runway show marks the fifth-year anniversary of Jone at the house. Offering a teaser into what the collection could look like, the house invited Australian actor Felix Mallard—of Netflix's Ginny & Georgia fame—into some of the archival inspirations that Jones were taken by. Cabochon jewellery as well as tweed, for example, look to be key elements of the collection.
If Jones is looking to emulate the kind of collaborative successes that he's introduced for Dior Men since the beginning of his tenure, we may also see one for spring/summer 2024.
Watch the Dior Men spring/summer 2024 runway show here live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men spring/summer 2024 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 23 June 2023 at 9pm Singapore time
There were no shortage of celebrities—hailed from all over the world—at the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear runway show. For the first time at the maison, the creative direction of its menswear universe has been handed over to a celebrity too: the multi-hyphenate Pharrell Williams. His star power drew entertainment heavyweights the likes of Beyoncé and husband Jay-Z, expecting couple Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Singapore's very own JJ Lin, K-pop stars Jackson Wang and BamBam, and more.
Williams delivered a show. Set right on the Pont Neuf, the backdrop was LVMH chief Bernard Arnault's very own slice of Paris—the area on the right bank where the Louis Vuitton studios, department store La Samaritaine, and Cheval Blanc Paris are all situated next to each other and owned by the French conglomerate. Guests sat flanking the entirety of the runway as gospel choir Voices of Fire and an orchestra provided the show's soundtrack.
In many ways, it was reminiscent of the late Virgil Abloh's live runway shows. More than just about the clothes and accessories, Abloh's were moments that intertwined music, art and culture with fashion—Williams did the same. The inclusion of familiar non-model faces in the runway line-up such as fashion designers Stefano Pilati and Dao Yi Chow (amongst other notable personalities outside of fashion) too added to the sense of community and openness beyond traditional fashion elites.
Intentional or not, it did seem as though Williams was paying homage to Abloh in the show's set. The runway was lined in gold, recalling Abloh's first runway show for the maison where he reimagined a yellow brick road. Abloh's tenure at Louis Vuitton was of course, monumentally successful, and if anything, Williams' debut could look to be following the same path.
The fit: There's a decidedly workwear approach peppered throughout the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear collection. Denim coordinates in various treatments and washes—mostly featuring signature Louis Vuitton motifs—were some of the more classic pieces that I could see being perennial pieces season after season. Hardier, almost military-inspired elements were also apparent as they were juxtaposed against tailored options.
The Damier was Williams' key focus, highlighting the house signature rather aggressively. His very own interpretation is the Damoflage—a combination of the camouflage print with the Damier. Rendered in three different colourways, the Damoflage was featured across ready-to-wear and accessories with the traditional camouflage reinterpreted as pixels merging with the Damier. On the more classic front, the Damier was also reimagined in primary colours as previewed by the Rihanna-fronted campaign released prior to the show.
Quite surprisingly, the collection didn't lean heavily into streetwear. Tailoring remained a sizeable bulk of the line-up ranging from oversized cuts in classic fabrications to those embellished with LV charms.
The details: Williams brought out the pearls as trims on tracksuits and a slew of accessories. Reminiscent of the custom Tiffany & Co. glasses that he's often spotted wearing (including for the show), some of the sunglasses featured a mohawk-like arrangement around the frame. Segments of bag straps and chains were also taken over by pearls, and a selection of pearl necklaces as well as brooches added that extra quintessential Williams stamp.
What was quite interesting was Williams' take on the Louis Vuitton teddy bear. First designed by former creative director Marc Jacobs—who also first brought Williams into the Louis Vuitton fold—Williams covered it entirely in Damoflage. And as an extension of the reference, shearling slippers were designed with soles resembling bear paws.
Three exceptional looks: Look 9 for anyone wanting to emulate Williams' style; look 50's all-denim ensemble that could be worn for dressier occasions; and look 69's tailoring-focused look tastefully accessorised with dandy pearls.
The takeaway: It's Louis Vuitton as Williams would wear it. In other words: irreverent and relevant.
View the full Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
192 bales of raw linen were transported from Normandy to Milan for the Zegna spring/summer 2024 runway show. They formed an oasis of sorts—Zegna calls the show L'Oasi di Lino (translation: the linen oasis)—within the Piazza San Fedele in Milan.
More than a showcase of what's coming up for the season, the show was once again a reiteration of Zegna's efforts at ensuring that its materials—the very basis of the brand—are sourced and produced with as little negative effects to the environment as possible. And before you call out the brand for potentially wasting raw materials for the show's scenography, Zegna ensures that the raw linen will be turned into its Oasi Linen fabric in Italy. It's also committed to certifying Oasi Linen as 100 percent traceable by 2024.
With that, the hero of the Zegna spring/summer 2024 collection is linen. A number of amalgamations were featured throughout the collection with treatments that displayed artistic director Alessandro Sartori's tactile mastery in materiality. And of course, his penchant for monochromatic looks.
The fit: There was an overall sense of ease and lightness to the collection that's typical of Zegna, and it's even more so owed to the generally linen-based fabrication. Shorts were cut roomy and grazed the knees, and were mostly part of coordinates—a Sartori-favoured leitmotif of constant reimaginings of men's suiting. Blazers were cut without lapels for a more streamlined appearance and oversized outerwear were designed with clean lines ensuring that elements were all flushed with little flourishes. On some instances where lapels did appear, they're actually a result of trompe-l'œil techniques, especially visible on the leather pieces (looks 27 and 33).
The collection's knitwear amplified the sense of tactility, adding both visual interest as well as contrasting textures. And if there's one thing that grounded the entire collection, it would be the triangular scarves seen on a number of looks. There's a sprezzatura sensibility about them that conjures this idea of an Italian summer—perhaps lounging around next to bales of hay (or linen) and without a single care in the world.
The details: Soft handbags crafted from supple leather made several appearances, echoing a similar kind of airiness of the ready-to-wear. The footwear though are the stars. The Triple Stitch was adapted into an espadrille-hybrid with visible rope-stitching running along the soles. Sartori also introduced a new slip-on shoe design cut from one piece of leather and affixed with chunky, textured soles for a truly sophisticated look.
Three exceptional looks: Look 14's classic Zegna fit with the addition of a triangular scarf for that added style factor; look 18 was a beautifully cut jumpsuit that retained elements of traditional menswear tailoring, especially in the interior; and look 45's textural masterpiece in the collection's standout flamingo hue.
The takeaway: This is not your grandfather's linen.
View the full Zegna spring/summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.
