The meeting in the desert.

The Gobi. It’s a vast expanse of emptiness and sand—so much sand—that spreads out into forever where the sky meets the endless horizon in a union of dust and sunlight. From the pictures, you’d imagine it to be tomb-quiet but the howl from the whipping wind says otherwise.

It’s hard to imagine such a landscape to be replete of life but travellers walked these sandy plains once and still. Except, in this day and age, SUVs and motorbikes leave their treads in the sand—signs of existence. These lay there as testament before, hours later, the wind would return the desert to its unblemished state.

For now, a Mongol herder—a sullen man, adorned in weathered leather boots and a dusty blue down coat bisected by a brown belt—leads his camels; trailing foot/hoofprints. They see a figure perched on a dune ahead. As the figure approaches, the herder brim his eyes with his free hand, while the other hand tightens around the reins.

The stranger, a tall foreigner of the Western persuasion, is attired in a white coat and slacks the colour of chocolate. He may look like a fish out of water but, here in this parched land, he feels perfectly at ease. Were this any other encounter, the herder would baulk at the stranger but this is a meeting that had occurred minutes ago. This is the second take before documentary photographer Chris Rainier, satisfied with the shot, directs them to another spot, angled in a way that the near-afternoon sun would flatter them.

A fashion shoot at the Aryabal Temple's inner sanctum.

From the Sands, a Seed of an Idea

It started at Luxor.

Two years ago, to commemorate its semicentennial anniversary, the Italian luxury lifestyle brand Stefano Ricci decided to host the celebration at the Hatshepsut Temple. As part of the Theban Necropolis, the temple is carved into the sheer cliffs of the Deir el-Bahari complex. The monumental architecture characterised by three terraces proved to be a fitting space for Stefano Ricci.

The two-day event culminated in a fashion show for 400 guests. Dr Zahi Hawass, archaeologist and former Minister of Antiquities and Culture, described the show thusly: “I have seen this temple more than a thousand times in my life, but Stefano [the namesake founder and brand chairman] made me see it in a new and different way. The fashion models began to come down the temple stairs, escorted by Egyptian warriors. We saw a great new fashion that the world had never seen before.”

The event created a lot of buzz but it also sparked an idea for a series; one that would take the Ricci family to far-flung corners of the world.


It's called the EXPLORER Project and it’s spearheaded by the sons of Stefano, Niccolò and Filippo—the CEO and creative director, respectively. Filippo said that the Luxor event alerted them to a new outlook in appealing to men’s innate wanderlust. Their clients are “dynamic, independent, powerful men” and the real luxury is to “have remarkable [travel] experiences”.

They started with Iceland. A land of contrasts, where glaciers meet black volcanic sands. The Vatnajökull Glacier—Europe’s largest ice cap—is an indomitable presence on the south-eastern horizon. For their AW24 collection, Filippo came with an intrepid crew consisting of hair-and-make-up artists, stylists, videographers, drone operators and models. They also roped in the expertise of Terry Garcia, CEO of Exploration Ventures, and the aforementioned Chris Rainier.

Terry leapt at the chance to work on the project. He cited the importance of exploration, especially in this day and age. They shot against the Skógafoss waterfall; along the black sand beaches of Reykjanesbær and Reynisfjara; the Diamond Beach, a sand beach next to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and the cavernous ice caves of the Vatnajökull Region.

The Galápagos Islands were the next chapter of the Explorer project but that wasn’t Stefano Ricci’s first choice. They were supposed to shoot elsewhere but unforeseen circumstances forced the crew to scramble for another location. They eventually ended at the Galápagos Islands.


A Diverse Crowd

We suppose there is some poetry to this. The volcanic archipelago was where naturalist, Charles Darwin, was inspired to develop his theory of evolution. In this place, where Darwin witnessed the adaptations of finches’ beaks, Stefano Ricci will adapt to shoot their SS24 campaign.

Terry Garcia is still on board but this time, Mattias Klum, photographer, and National Geographic fellow, helmed the photoshoot. Niccolò has decided to come along as well; no sense in letting the younger brother have all the fun. With the supervision of the Galápagos National Park Directorate, extreme care was taken in shooting in the archipelago’s fragile and unique ecosystems.

They shot at Santa Fé Island, a small gem in the Galápagos crown. There, the the sea lions and marine iguanas were nonchalant accessories to the photoshoot. The unique fauna (giant turtles) and flora (cactus and Scalesia forest) complemented the “nature tones” of the collection. This was also their first underwater shoot. On a boat ride out to Isla Guy Fawkes, Matthias said that the underwater perspective added another dimension to the story that they were telling.

That story is part of a bigger one. It’s post-Covid and the borders are slowly opening up. The pent-up agoraphilia that those mindful of quarantine have broken loose. It seemed serendipitous that Stefano Ricci managed to be in the thick of this sudden worldwide yen for travel.

The Land of the Conqueror

A ride along with the Kazakh eagle hunters.

For the AW24 collection, Stefano Ricci’s took to the birthplace of Chinggis Khaan—Mongolia. Aside the return of Chris Rainier as the principal photographer, for this expedition, they included the locals in their campaign, opened the expedition up to valued customers willing to join them and introduced exclusive material for their winter outfits.

First, the material. It’s made from the undercoat of the Hircus goats from Alashan. The fibre is collected through gentle hand combing on goats no older than 10 months of age in the spring. Then, it’s processed into a superlight and resistant cashmere: the Stefano Ricci Alpha Yarn.

Second, the inclusion of Stefano Ricci’s clientele in the project added another facet to the brand’s growing portfolio—that of a semi-bespoke travel agent. Stefano Ricci’s exclusive patronage is a by-invitation-only club. These valued patrons will have the opportunity to embark on this once-in-a- lifetime chance to evoke their inner Magellan (or insert your own ethical explorer alternative). Lorenzo Quinn, an artist known for his large-scale sculptures (one of his works, “The Force of Nature”, is found at Marina Barrage) is an inaugural invitee. In a reportage video, Lorenzo paraphrased the essence of exploration from the project’s motto, “[to] explore the world is to explore ourselves”. For an artist like him, this was a much-needed respite to stir the creative juices.

Shooting at the Chinggis Khaan Statute Complex.

During the time in Mongolia, the group slept in gers (a Mongolian yurt); traversed the Flaming Cliffs; posed at the Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex; climb the many and winding steps of Aryabal Temple and communed with the Kazakh burkitshi (eagle hunters) in Altai. It is the latter that held great significance with Stefano Ricci; the family’s emblem is the eagle. It is this commonality that the Riccis donated to Kazakh Falconry Association for the preservation of the raptors. (Stefano Ricci also donated to the Charles Darwin Foundation at their last Galápagos project).

For a luxury brand, there is nothing luxurious in how the campaigns were shot. In fact, productions were closer to the point of discomfort. There have been a lot of unearthly hours to aspire to, just to catch the first light of the sun. They also had to contend with the local amenities in these far-flung corners. In their journey from Three Camel Lodge at which they resided, to the shooting location in the Gobi, the early morning darkness caused even the guide to lose his bearings.

Model/ Monks.

But Niccolò had nothing but praise for the professionalism of his team. Everybody knows what they need to do. It’s a well-oiled machine, one that was honed during previous excursions. In classic Italian fashion, the smiles break through the sweat; the camaraderie flows easily.


A fashion house and the theme of travel... this isn’t a novel idea. Luggage brands like RIMOWA extolled the virtue of a well-travelled suitcase and Samsonite highlighted the “man on the go”. Coach had an air travel boutique inside an aeroplane. Japanese label, TEÄTORA, specialises in outfits to ease the rigours of travel—ie, packable T-shirts, jackets to fit carry-ons like a passport and/or an electronic tablet.

We leave off with a quote from Terry: “Exploration, yes, it’s about adventure, it’s about the unknown. But sometimes, exploration is about seeing an old place through new eyes.” And what better way than to view it through the lens of fashion?

Pharrell Williams and Tyler, the Creator share a longstanding collaboration in the music industry, with many of Tyler’s songs produced by Williams. They also feature in each other’s tracks, including Williams' 2022 single “Cash In Cash Out” and Tyler’s “IFHY” from his 2013 album Wolf. The close friends are in constant creative dialogues and thrive on it. Taking it to a new level, the Louis Vuitton men’s creative director delivers a new capsule collection created in collaboration with Tyler.

This isn't Tyler's first brush with Louis Vuitton having most recently composed the soundtrack for the Maison's Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear show. The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men’s Capsule Collection by Tyler, The Creator is a melodic combination of the visual vocabularies of Tyler and the Maison, especially the one that Williams has established—it's preppy meets dandy with a whole lot of fresh interpretations of both.

A special-edition Courrier Lozine 110 trunk featuring the Craggy Monogram.
The Craggy Monogram with daisies and Airedale Terrier details on jacket and shorts.
The Craggy Monogram on a windbreaker.

The collection features pieces that Tyler would personally wear. “I dress the same in a meeting as I do a performance or grocery store trip, so hand drawing the monogram felt like the perfect balance to me,” he says. Dubbed the "Craggy Monogram", his hand drawn monogram comes in chocolate, vanilla and pastel shades. In addition to the usual LV symbols and 4-petalled LV Flowers, the Craggy Monogram incorporates representations of daisies and Airedale Terriers—familiar motifs from the visual universe of the artist. The uneven shapes of the hand drawn Monogram are echoed in lines and details throughout the collection, from chocolate down jackets to vanilla windbreakers, denim jackets with matching denim pants and denim dungarees, along with accessories.

Known as the guy who turns up to awards shows in shorts, Tyler’s collection just had to include them. Classic shorts and chinos with pleats and fold-ups appear alongside dandy-esque shirts adorned with graphics. With his penchant for pastels, the collection also features baby blue cable knit jumpers with a craggy V-neck and cuff stripes, and a pink fair-isle vest. As a nod to Tyler's obsession of luggages, a special-edition Courrier Lozine 110 trunk featuring the Craggy Monogram was created for the collection.

Tyler's authenticity shines through his recurring playful motifs in the collection’s accessories ranging from flower-studded rings to a Craggy Monogram cereal bowl with a matching spoon. The collection also features a chess set with its chess pieces portraying melted chocolate, hand-sketched by Tyler himself. This is also, unsurprisingly, the rapper’s favourite item from the collection. “I wanted to mix my style and Louis Vuitton’s codes together in a way that felt slightly whimsical but could still be worn to the gas station on a Tuesday,” he explains.

Needless to say, Williams is a fan of the collection: “This collaboration is unique to Louis Vuitton because it’s a natural extension of our LVERS philosophy, building on our network of incredible artists and creatives. There are so many elements specific to Tyler built into these pieces and it’s been inspiring to see him hone in on his craft and collaborate with him for this spring collection."

The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men’s Capsule Collection by Tyler, The Creator is now available in boutiques and online.

(SAINT LAURENT)

Creative director Anthony Vaccarello wants eyes on the shoulders of the Saint Laurent man. For the 49-look Summer 2024 collection, he had models either donning jackets with emphasised shoulders, or baring them. Even in unlayered overshirts, the shoulder seams have been intentionally extended to accentuate the broadness of a man’s frame. Presented in Berlin, Germany, at the monumental Neue Nationalgalerie by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, the Saint Laurent Summer 2024 collection found the perfect stage. There, in the glass-and-steel temple of modern architecture, the occasion seared the setting into the minds of guests in attendance—the collection was paraded with the aplomb of modernism amid a glorious sunset.

While it is easy to pick up the references Vaccarello pulled from the Saint Laurent Women’s Winter 2023 collection, translating a female collection onto menswear is no simple trick. Due credit must be given to Vaccarello for making it even remotely appealing to the everyday man. The androgynous wardrobe he has created succeeds because it modernises the inverted triangle body shape that traditionalists worship.

Vaccarello’s modernist approach comes into focus at waists that are cinched, so the inverted triangle is fully realised to its tip, literally. In every look, the top is presented tucked and nipped into the generously cut high-waisted flute pants. After the shoulders, attention gravitates towards the pants of the collection. There is an assuring dissonance in the suaveness of the pants being high-waisted and cut in a flute shape. But there is also a comfort in knowing there’s wiggle room for such a sharply tailored garment. Hemmed at the ankle, the pants are also given attention to the chunky heeled boots that are paired with the looks. The least desired thing about flute pants is the bunching at the legs, breaking up the masculine stature.

There are many other modernist approaches employed by Vaccarello throughout the Saint Laurent Summer 2024 collection. Seemingly stereotypical female garment types are butched up. Deep décolletés satin tank tops are cut wide to look like luxurious muscle tanks. One-shouldered toga sheer tops are treated into cut-out T-shirts for a grunge outlook where the other non-exposed shoulder is completely covered. A silk satin blouse is perhaps Vaccarello’s take on the basic oversized T-shirt seen all over the streets.

(SAINT LAURENT)

The Saint Laurent Summer 2024 collection is entitled “Each Man Kills The Thing He Loves”. And by the way it was presented, many men may have overkilled their excuse of being presentable with lazy suits over basic T-shirts. Vaccarello shows the way with sharp tailoring and a modernist masculine appeal of truly being presentable.

Brand ambassador appointments are nothing new—in fact, they're quite a regular occurrence nowadays. What's unusual and quite rare are instances where multiple brand ambassadors are announced on the same day and by two very different brands.

But that's the beauty of appointing a brand ambassador. One is carefully chosen based not only on popularity and personal achievements in the space that they inhabit, but also by how they fit in with the brand ethos and aesthetic. Hence, even when Burberry and RIMOWA announced their newly crowned brand ambassadors on the same day (8 March 2024), the distinction was very clear.

Barry Keoghan for Burberry

Irish actor Barry Keoghan, known for his roles in movies such as Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk, Martin McDonagh's The Banshees of Inisherin, and most recently, the highly talked about Saltburn, has had many affiliations with Burberry. The BAFTA winner was a guest of the brand for the 2023 Met Gala (dressed in an attention-grabbing outfit featuring chief creative officer Daniel Lee's reworked Burberry check), and opted to wear Burberry to the European premiere of Apple TV+'s Masters of the Air and the 2024 BAFTA Film Awards. If you've been following the Burberry runway shows closely, you would have also spotted Keoghan on the front rows of the Summer 2024 and Winter 2024 shows.

Keoghan's brand ambassadorship seems like a longtime coming then. "I've been a fan of Burberry for many years now. It's such an iconic heritage brand with innovation at its heart, and a commitment to supporting arts and culture. I'm very excited to be a part of this next chapter," he says.

Jay Chou for RIMOWA

Trust the King of Mandopop to be a fitting ambassador for RIMOWA. Jay Chou confesses to be a longtime fan of RIMOWA: "As I travel around the world, my RIMOWA suitcases have been trusted companions that I share precious memories with. They've accompanied me not only in professional settings but during other travels too, as I delved into new realms to seek out new inspiration." If you're still in doubt about the authenticity of Chou's affinity for RIMOWA, one of his own was showcased as part of RIMOWA's 125th anniversary exhibition SEIT 1898 back in 2023.

Chou is now part of the latest instalment of RIMOWA's Never Still campaign. As an overarching narrative that defines travel not only as a means of personal advancement, but also a catalyst for inner transformation, Chou's campaign sees him relating travel to his musical endeavours and the boundless inspirations that being "never still" offers. "Melodies know no rules, stories unfold spontaneously," he says as he's captured navigating the streets of London (no doubt one of many cities the seasoned entertainer has travelled to) with a RIMOWA Original Cabin in Titanium.

Edited by Asri Jasman

You’ve heard of VR games and concerts but what about VR dance shows? The first of its kind, LE BAL de PARIS de Blanca Li is a multi-sensory virtual experience. A show that seamlessly integrates music and dance to give audiences an award-winning theatrical spectacle. As an audience member, you are part of the act. Operating in a virtual space, the audience partakes in a storyline of unrequited love filled with anthropomorphic animals.

The Next Gen of Tech

Created by the world-renowned choreographer and filmmaker, Blanca Li, the immersive and participatory experience is made possible with a room-scale virtual reality. Unlike most VR applications which allow stationary users to engage with their virtual surroundings, a room-scale VR allows for users to manoeuvre around a physical space. Think of it as playing a video game. But the controller is your body in a physical space: you move your right foot forward and your avatar echoes the action.

Running for about 35 minutes, the show is brought to life through the use of the HTC Vive Focus 3 and HTC Vive Trackers (for full body tracking). CHANEL provides the outfits your avatars will don during the session. Players are presented with a line-up of 15 CHANEL outfits to choose from in a virtual dressing room. Once chosen, players are outfitted in a garb that's fitting for a grand Parisian ball. And yes, you can even crossdress, no judgment in a virtual space. In the VR world, you can admire your duds in the mirror and you can see your hands and feet in the space as well.

Behind the Magical Experience

At each show, 10 audience members can indulge in this shared experience. Due to the nature of the show, interaction among audience members is enforced. You're encouraged to dance or move within the space as music and audio is played through the VR headset. Follow along the story of two lovers, Adèle and Pierre. We meet them in a crowded grand ballroom and then transported to a hedge maze. There's even a travel across a lake on a boat and a jaunty ride on a tram. All these and more, within the confines of a room and in the expense of the imagination.

LE BAL de PARIS de Blanca Li brings its grandeur to Singapore's Infinite Studios and runs until 17 March 2024. Tickets are priced at SGD73 for weekdays and SGD87 for weekends. Get your tickets here.

Nǎi Nai and Wài Pó director Sean Wang and producer Sam Davis took to the red carpet with the stars of the film (and Wang's grandmothers) Chang Li Hua and Yi Yan Fuei.
(GETTY IMAGES)

And with that, the 96th Academy Awards aka the 2024 Oscars have concluded. Celebrating films released in 2013, the awards show continued last year's "Barbenheimer" phenomenon (although Barbie received only eight nominations as compared to Oppenheimer's 13) with two musical performances from Barbie, and Oppenheimer bringing home 7 awards. The latter included Cillian Murphy's first nomination and win for "Best Actor".

Murphy took home the award in an Atelier Versace ensemble that complemented his penchant for contemporary stylings while still adhering to traditional dress codes—an aesthetic that seemed to be the unspoken rule for almost all of our best-dressed attendees. Colman Domingo's Louis Vuitton double-breasted tuxedo consisted of flared trousers and embellished buttons, while Riz Ahmed's Marni fit was finished with raw edges with minimal flourishes.

The red carpets at awards shows as important as the Oscars have had a history of being an avenue for celebrities to show allegiance to a cause. This year was no different. Like Ahmed, attendees the likes of Ramy Youssef, Billie Eilish, and Mark Ruffalo took the opportunity to show their support for a permanent ceasefire in Gaza by wearing red lapel pins. These pins represent Artists4Ceasfire, a collective of over 400 artists who have all expressed their stand through an open letter to US President Joe Biden.

View the best menswear looks at the red carpet of the 96th Academy Awards in the gallery below.

Ramy Youssef in ZEGNA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Riz Ahmed in MARNI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Enzo Vogrincic in LOEWE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Chris Hemsworth. (GETTY IMAGES)
John Mulaney in FENDI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Susan Downey and Robert Downey Jr. in SAINT LAURENT and TIFFANY & CO.. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jack Quaid in RALPH LAUREN and TIFFANY & CO.. (GETTY IMAGES)
Scott Evans in AMIRI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Tatanka Means. (GETTY IMAGES)
Matthew McConaughey in ATELIER VERSACE and CINDY CHAO. (GETTY IMAGES)
Alan Chikin Chow in DIOR MEN. (GETTY IMAGES)
Shameik Moore. (GETTY IMAGES)
Dominic Sessa in TOM FORD. (GETTY IMAGES)
Jon Batiste in ZEGNA, and Suleika Jaouad. (GETTY IMAGES)
Ryan Gosling in GUCCI. (GETTY IMAGES)
William Belleau in DOLCE&GABBANA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Matt Bomer in BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Joseph Quinn in CHAUMET. (GETTY IMAGES)
Ke Huy Quan in GIORGIO ARMANI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Taylor Zakhar Perez in PRADA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Teo Yoo in LOUIS VUITTON and CARTIER. (GETTY IMAGES)
Tamsin Egerton, and Josh Hartnett in BERLUTI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Bradley Cooper in LOUIS VUITTON. (GETTY IMAGES)
Sterling K. Brown in DIOR MEN. (GETTY IMAGES)
Kingsley Ben-Adir in GUCCI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Dwayne Johnson in DOLCE&GABBANA. (GETTY IMAGES)
Omar Rudberg. (GETTY IMAGES)
John Krasinski in BRIONI and TIFFANY & CO.. (GETTY IMAGES)
Ncuti Gatwa. (GETTY IMAGES)
Gabrielle Union, and Dwyane Wade in ATELIER VERSACE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Mark Ronson in GUCCI. (GETTY IMAGES)
Cillian Murphy in ATELIER VERSACE. (GETTY IMAGES)
Colman Domingo in LOUIS VUITTON. (GETTY IMAGES)
Sean Wang, Chang Li Hua, Sam Davis and Yi Yan Fuei. (GETTY IMAGES)

The Saint Laurent Winter 2024 runway show was a departure from its Summer 2024 one, but only conceptually. Saint Laurent doesn't shy away from the duality of the male spirit. It's apparent in the House's throng of global famous faces adopted into its fold—from rock legend Lenny Kravitz to younger upstarts the likes of Austin Butler, Mark Tuan, and Ten Lee of NCT U—who all, while exuding an air of elegance, are more than stereotypical masculine tropes.

Creative director Anthony Vaccarello has been reiterating Saint Laurent's masculine-feminine tension for a few seasons now. While typically shown during different fashion week calendars, the womenswear and menswear collections have effectively been mirror images of each other. There's been a consistency in aesthetic where Vaccarello would borrow womenswear silhouettes and fabrications for menswear, while the latter's cut would dictate the form of the womenswear collections.

For Winter 2024, the menswear show was somewhat of a surprise. Instead of showing during January's Paris Fashion Week Men's or completely off schedule (like Summer 2024's in Berlin), the Saint Laurent Winter 2024 show was about a week apart from the womenswear show—further blurring the lines between the two. But the actual surprise was the collection itself. After seasons of embodying a softer side of the Saint Laurent man, Vaccarello opted to switch things up at Paris' Bourse de Commerce (also the site of one of my personal favourite runway shows by the creative director).

The fit: Right from the first look, there was little doubt that the collection wouldn't be following a similar formula of collections prior. It was classic, almost too classic, veering on old-school. A grey double-breasted suit paired with a white shirt and (gasp!) a striped tie of significant width. There was a decidedly '80s feel to the entire ensemble but perhaps only on first glance. The wide, peak lapels of the blazer were matched in intensity with the shirt collar. Yet there were nuances of contemporary flair: the overall silhouette was still very languid and soft with a strong-shoulder anchor; the blazer was cut straight with a deliciously roomy give; and while still respecting the traditional rule of a peek of shirt cuff under the blazer, sleeves were lengthened just enough to strike away any old-school notion.

This classic-made-new combination continued on throughout the entire Winter 2024 collection. There were a few outerwear-focused looks interspersed—the liquid-like rubber propositions looked otherworldly—but the main star was the gradual dissolution of the formality of that very first look. As the show went on, the suit became lighter and more fluid both in construction as well as colours, while shirts returned to their Saint Laurent-silk normality with matching ties.

The details: The aforementioned rubber outerwear weren't just for mere drama. Vaccarello reimagined a '60s archival reference with a structured rubber peacoat worn with a leather hat that it's connected to (look 7). Beautiful things can indeed be functional.

If you were missing the silk blouses—seen aplenty on the front row—Vaccerello offered up a number in rich hues that echoed the tail end of the line-up. Although if you were looking out for classic Saint Laurent pointed boots and footwear, they were replaced with square-toed variants that added so much gravitas.

Three exceptional looks: Look 14's all-black drama punctuated by that rubber coat; look 28's sublime colour combination; and an olive green version in look 37 that I would've never considered up till now.

The takeaway: Covered up as compared to previous collections yes, but the Saint Laurent man is still as sexy as Vaccarello has made him to be.

View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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Harrington jacket, DIOR MEN
(ALFREDO PIOLA)

Artistic director Kim Jones’ continuous delving into the Dior archives has resulted in a Dior Men Summer 2024 collection that is an amalgamation of ideas of the house’s past creatives. From the tailoring silhouettes of Yves Saint Laurent to Gianfranco Ferré’s couture embroidery, the collection celebrates the archetypal masculine wardrobe and elevates them into something extravagant, yet reined with a spirited elegance.

Cardigan, polo, shorts, Saddle Soft bag and socks, DIOR MEN
(ALFREDO PIOLA)
Coat, jacket, shirt, beanie, brooches, Dior 3D S1I sunglasses and earring, DIOR MEN
(ALFREDO PIOLA)
Jacket, shirt, trousers, brooch, beanie, Dior 3D S1I sunglasses, freshwater pearl necklace, Dior Ultra Mini pouch, socks and Buffalo loafers, DIOR MEN.
Jacket, shirt, trousers, brooch, beanie, Dior 3D S1I sunglasses, freshwater pearl necklace, Dior Ultra Mini pouch, socks and Buffalo loafers, DIOR MEN
(ALFREDO PIOLA)
Berluti's Grand Mesure suits are an extension of the brand's bespoke shoe service.
(BERLUTI)

Nothing feels quite as satisfying as purchasing a piece of garment that fits like a glove. It’s a stroke of luck unless your body is conventionally shaped and match the standard dimensions of pattern blocks used by ready-to-wear manufacturers. Even then, these standards can differ between brands, and finding the right fit—for those who care about the subtleties of a well-fitting ensemble—can be challenging.

Ready-to-wear makes up a significant chunk of the clothing market, ranging from fast fashion to luxury assortments offered by major brands. While the designs and the levels of craftsmanship (if any) vary, the ease and relative speed of producing ready-to-wear make it the default choice for the everyman.

The idea of ready-to-wear fashion isn’t new, and its proliferation and mainstream access had arrived by the 20th century. Driven by the Industrial Revolution, ready-to-wear gained traction with the accelerated speed of producing yarns, as well as the invention of pattern-cutting and sewing machinery. Technology would continue to advance, capable of producing new yarns and blends of fabric at quantities commanded by economies of scale. This is why we’re able to rock up to a store, pick a shirt, try it on in the fitting room, and pay for it at the cashier, all in less than 30 minutes, or cart out a piece of garment in a matter of minutes online.

Button selections at Giorgio Armani.
(GIORGIO ARMANI)
Fabric choices are aplenty at Giorgio Armani.
(GIORGIO ARMANI)

“It was a time of big fashion corporations, globalisation and an impersonal approach to design,” says Giorgio Armani. “I believe it is important to remember where fashion design started—with the desire to make beautiful clothes for people to wear.” With this intention, the Italian maestro decided to embark on a made-to-measure service in 2006 that is rooted in his design language of ease and comfort.

Fluid shapes and relaxed tailoring are Giorgio Armani signatures and its made-to-measure service simplifies the offering into two categories. The “Soho” is more suited to those looking for contemporary and sophisticated silhouettes, while the “Wall Street” range offers classic and traditional silhouettes. Both feature designs from the Giorgio Armani ready-to-wear collections too for daywear and eveningwear.

The new Ngee Ann City boutique is one of a select number of Giorgio Armani shops around the world offering the made-to-measure service. Clients need only turn up for an initial consultation, where a trained staff will take their measurements needed and go through the customisations that can be done—from fabric choice to type of lapel, down to the lining and buttons.

The process is fairly streamlined:, and clients are given an option for a second fitting before the made-to-measure piece is finished. The final garment can either be picked up at the boutique or delivered to the client. And after that first piece has been made, the client’s measurements and unique pattern will be stored in the Giorgio Armani database—no further measurements are needed for subsequent orders, unless the clients’ figure change over time.

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While more known for its slate of beautiful patinated leather shoes, Berluti too offers a tailoring service. And just like its bespoke shoe service, its Grand Mesure suits are technically bespoke—a piece cut exactly to the measurement of one’s body with personalisation options that are almost limitless. The brand partners up with Parisian bespoke tailor Arnys (acquired by parent company LVMH in 2012 and folded into Berluti) for its Grand Mesure tailoring.

More than just the garment itself, bespoke services often relates to the client’s lifestyle—how he lives, what he does, where he sees himself wearing the piece, etc. Because having almost a limitless range of options to choose from can be daunting, the tailor is able to guide and advise on fabric choices (over 3,000 in total) and even the tiniest details. If not, a Grand Mesure collection provides initial inspirations on pieces to work with, such as a safari jacket, denim jeans and the emblematic Berluti Forestière jacket.

Three weeks after the initial consultation, the first fitting is scheduled. If it’s a suit that’s being crafted, the unfinished jacket will be presented to determine if the fit is perfect. A completed pair of trousers is presented at this fitting. A month later, a complete bespoke suit will be presented during a second fitting where adjustments to length, width and overall fit can be made promptly. And just like that, about two months after the first consultation, a Berluti Grand Mesure suit is made to one’s unique dimensions.

But of course, made-to-measure and bespoke services aren’t restricted to traditionally tailored garments.

Prada’s made-to-measure service extends to leather outerwear as well as knitwear. For the former, clients are able to choose between six outerwear styles: blazer, caban, coat, bomber, biker and overcoat. A selection of three types of leathers are used with a high level of customisation options. But because leather is a more precious material to work with, the artisan will only start cutting the chosen leather once a canvas toile is tried and fitted on the client with no further changes.

The range is wider for Prada’s made-to-order knitwear. Ten classic Prada knits can be customised using two lightweight gauge knits—superfine wool f.30 and superfine cashmere f.18. Colours can be taken from Prada’s extensive runway archives to create a knit that’s Prada in every way but still unique to one’s whims.

Drawing on the execution of a modern tailoring wardrobe, Zegna’s made-to-measure service consists of more traditional tailoring to the brand’s more relaxed proposals. Refined materials such as Zegna’s 100 per cent traceable Oasi Cashmere come in elegant monochromatic shades with knit tailoring exemplifying the contemporary aesthetic that is signature to the brand. Key outerwear styles such as the overshirt and chore jacket too are part of the mix, done in a choice of fine fabrics that traipse the line of performance and style seamlessly.

The idea of made-to-measure for brands largely involved in ready-to-wear but with an appreciation for traditional tailoring and craft, is to offer a level of service that’s one of the backbones of luxury. Anybody can go to a boutique and buy something off the rack, but not everyone can get the same piece tailored specifically for them.

“I realised that I have clients who really do want a unique product, made specifically for them. Hence, I decided to create a made-to-measure service, where a customer gets all the benefits of a tailor-made garment—unique fit, fabric, lining, buttons, details—as well as the signature Giorgio Armani look,” says Armani.

It’s also about appreciating the time and artistry behind the craft. With made-to-measure, it’s a given that a big portion of creating the garment is done by hand by skilled artisans. And to know that you’ve had a hand in designing your very own Prada knitwear or Zegna jacket? What could be more luxurious than that?

The collab between adidas and Australian fashion house Song for the Mute combines functions and looks. It may be trite but it must be doing something because this is their third team-up. For this new Song for the Mute x adidas 003 collection, Creative Director Lyna Ty reinterprets heritage silhouettes with modernist fabrication and detailing. This partnership oversees the reimagining of the iconic Country OG silhouette. This, as well as, a new apparel range that includes sportswear essentials. 

At the heart of this collection lies the reinterpreted Country OG silhouette. Now dubbed simply as the “SFTM-003”, it is available in three 90’s inspired colourways. You've grey and teal, those hues are reminiscent of vintage windbreakers, and finally, in black. Each pair arrives with an additional metallic D-ring hardware combined with a custom paracord-inspired toggle lacing system. A perfect synergy and a nod to "futuristic nostalgia". Keeping to its roots, the kicks retain its beloved soft cushioning, grippy outsole and low-profile build. Finally, to cap it off, the flexible leather upper blends everyday comfort with an elevated look.

The Apparel

Sherpa fleece zip-up jackets with digital printed contrast sleeves
Distressed jersey hoodie, press-stud track pants in a lightweight coated cotton
Custom jacquard knitwear with intricate contrasting colour-work
Custom jacquard knitwear with intricate contrasting colour-work

As for the collaborative apparel essentials, Ty dabbles in new textile directions and techniques in the apparel range. You've your sherpa fleece zip-up jackets that's accompanied by digital printed contrast sleeves. There are distressed jersey hoodies, an oversized blazer and press-stud track pants in a lightweight coated cotton. Rounding up the range is a custom jacquard knitwear that comes with an intricate contrasting colour-work.

Song for the Mute x adidas 003 is readily available at adidas Brand Centre Orchard, adidas VivoCity Originals B1 as well as online and the adidas CONFIRMED App.

With the release of Dune: Part Two right around the corner, the cast has been on a press tour the world over. There's no denying that they're taking the fashion seriously too. From red carpet premieres to photocalls, Timothée Chalamet and Austin Butler—portraying Paul Atreides and newly introduced Feyd-Rautha Harkonnen, respectively—have been showcasing a diverse array of looks. Each outfit chosen had been statements in their own right, and are deserving of as much hype as the movie itself.

CinemaCon 2023

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At CinemaCon 2023, Chalamet was decked out in a grungy look as he wore an edgy leather vest by Helmut Lang over a white T-shirt and skinny leather motorcycle trousers with built-in knee pads. To finish off the biker aesthetic, a pair of pointed black leather boots was the footwear of choice.

Jimmy Kimmel Live!

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At the casts’ appearance on Jimmy Kimmel Live!, Chalamet's edgy outfit consisted of a sleeveless black sweatshirt with grommet detailing by Junya Watanabe x Stüssy, leather trousers from Alexander McQueen and black boots. However, he switched things up with a cozy knit from Hermès during the taping.

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Butler arrived in a black unbuttoned shirt, wearing a matching black pinstriped suit over, and boots. He also had on a thin silver chain necklace, proving that it's what one needs to complete any suit look.

Mexico City photocall

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Chalamet wore a sleeveless calf hair top from Hermès' yet-to-be-released Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection, matched with trousers and chunky leather boots. Butler, on the other hand, opted for something a little more relaxed with a simple white T-shirt under a grey unbuttoned three-piece by Givenchy.

Mexico City premiere

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The duo kept it smart in Mexico City. Chalamet wore a custom Prada suit and a black poplin v-neck shirt with what is decidedly his more experimental look thus far. The blazer was tucked in and accessorised with a double tour Prada belt.

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Butler rocked a striking pinstripe suit from Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection with cutting shoulders. Completing the look, he opted for a gold-buckled belt—not too excessive but also not too modest.

Paris photocall

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In Paris, the Dune lead stayed rather safe with a black turtleneck and sleek leather pants (notably a recurring trend with the actor) from Bottega Veneta's Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Cartier jewellery and a pair of Oliver Peoples sunglasses completed the easy look.

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Butler exuded effortless style in a monochromatic Fear of God ensemble, featuring loose-fit clothing with relaxed shoulders—a departure from his usual tailored suits. He completed the look with understated David Yurman jewellery.

Paris premiere

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Chalamet wore a custom shiny metal breastplate from Givenchy with a graphic turtleneck. He had also worn a black wool jacket featuring a notch lapel with matching wool trousers. Cartier accessories such as a platinum Cintrée timepieces from the Rééditions collection and a sizeable silver ring.

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Butler dressed smart in yet another Louis Vuitton ensemble, which consisted of a sharply tailored black jacket over a crisp white dress shirt, and a striking pair of flared pants reminiscent of the '70s. He kept it easy with a pair of black dress shoes, and a ring for a little hint of jewellery.

London photocall

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Chalamet's fish scale wool sweater was from Bottega Veneta’s women’s collection, reiterating that clothing has no gender. And if his legs looked longer than usual, that's all thanks to the chocolate brown leather pants matched with a set of Ripley Boots by Bottega Veneta as well.

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Butler was wearing a custom three-piece double-breasted suit by Louis Vuitton in an offbeat shade of grey. The unusually wide-lapel blazer and waistcoat, once again, blends a sense of timelessness with a contemporary twist that Butler tends to favour.

London premiere

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Chalamet reunited with designer Haider Ackermann, donning on metallic trousers that were difficult to not miss, and paired with an oversized black shirt. For accessories, he wore a custom Cartier necklace featuring invert-set diamonds in orange, yellow, brown, and white hues, designed to mimic the desert landscape in Dune.

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Butler's penchant for tailoring saw him taking on a black Sabato de Sarno for Gucci overcoat paired with a white vest. It's perhaps simple in execution but sleek and dramatic all the same.

Seoul photocall and press conference

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Chalamet was seen sporting powdery blue overalls from South Korean designer Juun.J's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, in a deliberate move to twin with fellow lead Zendaya. He finished off the look with simple silver necklaces and a pair of Chelsea boots in the same exact shade, sticking true to the runway look.

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Butler was also dressed in blue, opting for a Valentino suit with a silk shirt of a lighter shade. But instead of keeping to the monochromatic tones of the clothes, the footwear of choice was a black pair of dress shoes. A silver necklace completed the entire look.

Seoul premiere

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For Seoul's premiere, Chalamet chose a sleek white suit paired with black leather boots, both courtesy of Gucci. Continuing his partnership with Cartier, he wore a single Cartier diamond necklace for a touch of elegance—just one of his many moments with the luxury brand throughout the press tour.

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Butler kept it classic with a black pinstriped double-breasted suit layered over a white dress shirt, matching the entire ensemble with a black tie and black dress shoes.

Dune: Part Two will show in cinemas on 29 February 2024.

Many things come and go (and come again) in fashion. Yet, the elegance of formal menswear continues to stand the test of time. One may argue that there’s less of a need to be decked out in a full suit these days. But that doesn’t mean that the category has been rendered completely obsolete.

Louis Vuitton’s latest "New Formal" menswear collection reiterates the fusion of timeless elegance with modern tailoring. elevating formal staples with luxury craftsmanship. Following the Spring/Summer 2024 debut, this latest trans-seasonal instalment places a spotlight on slim suiting. Single-breasted jackets are paired with cigarette trousers for a timeless silhouette. It exudes an air of confidence and refined professonalism. Apart from being available in classic shades of black and navy, an option in white makes for the perfect fit for an evening soirée.

The Damier motif that’s been further emphasised by Louis Vuitton men’s creative director Pharrell Williams adorns everything from suiting to footwear. With a wavy motif and pinstripes cut on the bias, it add a subtle, dynamic flair. As if one needs more examples on how this isn’t your father’s idea of tailoring. Footwear styles such as the Sorbonne loafers, Varenne Chelsea boots and Richelieus in rich leather tones complement the tailored options. They prove to be key staples of the “New Formal” collection.

Formality here, however, isn’t just defined by suiting. This new instalment expands the idea of formalwear with tailored outerwear that act as complementary, timeless options. An elegant navy suede leather blouson, a beige peacoat designed with a shearling collar, as well as a parka constructed as a three-in-one piece, all offer the kind of versatility one would expect from a collection meant to be an indispensable investment. Wear them with the extensive coordinated options of the “New Formal” tailoring. Or pair them with other more casual wardrobe staples for an elegant quick-fix.

Iconic bag styles like the Keepall travel bag and the Aerogram Lock It tote suit every professional need. The Georges tote—introduced in the first instalment—makes a return as it becomes an emblem for the collection. Crafted in Millésime grained leather by Domaine des Massifs, the design is sleek, stylish, and hardy such that it makes for a brilliant alternative to an ordinary briefcase.

The suit is dead, long live the suit.

The latest Louis Vuitton "New Formal" collection is now available in Louis Vuitton boutiques and online.

Edited by Asri Jasman

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