When we first bore witness to the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections slightly over six months ago—because, you know, fashion—it looked to be a very exciting time for menswear. It wasn't only for the unprecedented manner Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week Men's for his Louis Vuitton debut as creative director, but also for the strong proposals of what it means to be a man today.
Homogeneity takes a backseat to make way for a splicing of masculine ideals. There's more than enough room for a man to be himself, however he wants to. The diverse range seen throughout the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections echoes the embrace of men unafraid of masculine displays in atypical machismo fashion. From the updated signatures of Giorgio Armani to Loewe's experimental codes, the collections are not for the everyman but for every man.
That said, there's no reason to stick to one particular style too. The world contains multitudes—a multifaceted prism of the human race. Some days, you'd want to dress in sleek cuts peppered with soft nuances like from Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent. On other days, you'd feel like exuding a modern aristocrat courtesy of Dior Men. With choices aplenty, why settle for just one facet of your being?
It's funny to think that when we were younger, there was a strong desire to want to be older and bigger. And once we've reached the realities of adulthood, we often look back fondly at the relative carefree ease of our youth. We are not projecting but it does seem to be a constant narrative in fashion—drawing inspiration from childhood and youthful energy.
What's evident for Spring/Summer 2024 is the adoption of boyish proportions. Rejecting any sense of what the "perfect" fit is, brands like Gucci (still a pre-Sabato De Sarno collection) opt to channel this through a calculated drowning of the body with fabric. It's almost like wearing a piece from an older and much bigger figure, while others pair oversized tops with shorts and bermudas that barely graze the knees. The latter wouldn't look out of place in the skateboard scene but materialised with modern tailoring as exemplified by Valentino and Burberry. Hermès offers shorts that almost disappear under outerwear and knitwear, effectively creating its most daring menswear proposal yet.
If you intend to jump on the bandwagon, start with Zegna's more proportioned stylings consisting of oversized tops and outerwear with loose-fit bermudas. Those look more intentional than try-hard.
Pharrell Williams knows how to put on a show. The man is a multi-award-winning musician after all, with style chops to boot. Louis Vuitton, however, is a beast of its own and the pressure to deliver as creative director of its men's universe is certainly significant, to say the least. Williams' debut, while a spectacle, was also a showcase of his knowledge of image-making.
The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is rife with elements even the most casual follower of Williams would be familiar with. And that's because one can imagine Williams wearing almost every look, down to the pearl accessories. It's the short suits and coordinates, the tasteful use of jewellery and accessories (and at times a merging of both) as well as the sharp tailoring—everything feels very Williams.
That the collection looks like it exited Williams' personal wardrobe would've been an issue if not for the way he incorporated Louis Vuitton signatures. The Damier is reinvigorated with a camouflage treatment and in some instances, decorated with his penchant for pearls. The LV Monogram gets significant real estate throughout the collection (what "quiet luxury"?) on the reworked bags that are made with a softer and more pliable construction.
There's also a continuation of the legacy that the late Virgil Abloh set as a precedent during his time as creative director. The casting is diverse—ethnicity, body size, age and gender—and the collection feels like it could be worn by just about anyone from any part of the world. If anything, for that alone, Williams' debut is every bit the success that Louis Vuitton was banking on.
...when you have a bag that's more comfortable to the touch. Williams may have been on to something when he switched up the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy to be less of a structured bag. The reimagined Speedy P9 is made with naturally supple-grained calfskin and completely lined with lambskin leather. The effect is a buttery soft feel that responds to every touch and is comfortable enough to hug as a clutch.
The Speedy P9 isn't the only big and soft carrier of the season. Even within the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, the more traditionally constructed Speedy 50s offer a similar size-and-feel factor. At Prada, leather travel and tote bags are supersized and with such a supple composition that they're carried on the runway as though they're designed strapless.
Perhaps the most outrageous of them all is Bottega Veneta's thoroughly oversized drawstring duffel. It stands as tall as half a typical human male model. It's decadently crafted out of exotic skin and for obvious reasons, you'd probably never want to let go of this one.
This may perhaps be the new luxury fashion version of the much-maligned Crocs—you either hate it or love it. Among Burberry's offering of footwear for its Summer 2024 collection come slides that are part mules and part loafers.
Look, we get it; this is probably not for everyone but hear us out. Each pair is embellished with crystals and made of rubber, so you know that they're going to be comfortable and perfect for the tropical climate. The uppers are also perforated
with a detachable Equestrian Knight Design charm. Position it wherever you want for an offbeat look.
It actually does look great with a pair of socks in the same colour family. Although we might lose the charm for a more streamlined aesthetic. It's one of those things that you wouldn't immediately gravitate towards but give it a few wears and this is one pair you'd be glad to have in your collection. But like everything else thus far this season, you do you.
The idea of utility has always been prevalent in menswear. While its use is seen in pieces made primarily for the outdoors, a hybridisation has been happening of late, thanks in part to streetwear's influence. The treatment however, has often been rugged and hardy with a clear leaning to its roots, but for Spring/Summer 2024 we're seeing a shift.
While not exactly crafted from the most precious of materials, the season's take on utilitarian fashion is softer in make while still retaining its functional aspect. Givenchy, for example, reduced the number of pockets on its gilet to two main zipped compartments that make up almost half of the entire piece of clothing. It's also made from a lightweight nylon material for easier wear during the summer months.
Similarly, Berluti's lightweight technical-inspired blazer adopts the weather-resistant capabilities of nylon. Add to it, the nifty patch pockets finished with reinforced seams and chest zipped slots that are beautifully topped with leather pull tabs. They're key design elements that are also seen in a swathe of the collection's outerwear, including on a suede bomber.
If Givenchy's gilet isn't up to task to meet your OCD tendencies, Prada's option offers the kind of organised functionality you'd expect from a military-grade gilet. Except it's rendered in a hue that's more fashion-forward than forest-friendly. For those who prefer their utilitarian pieces in the thinnest fabric possible, Emporio Armani's translucent proposals make for stellar investments. Just keep in mind to wear something under though.
Read on for part two of the Spring/Summer 2024 trend report.
Climbing behind the wheel of an expensive car does something to a man. The exact brain chemistry, I can’t say. Perhaps it’s the sudden grip of power; the adrenalised unpredictability. Or, maybe, the increased likelihood that you'd catch the eye of anyone when you toss the keys to the valet. As someone who has previously shown an unwavering indifference to automobiles his entire life, for the first time I finally understood.
The Bentley Flying Spur Hybrid is the first hybrid ever made by Bentley. Powered by both electric battery and petrol it's a different hybrid symbiosis when driving it. A hybrid of heaven and hell. Heaven, for its robust smoothness and opulent interiors; and hell, for the feeling of devilish omnipotence that hijacks the person gripping the wheel.
Having grown up in Los Angeles, the familiar image of a Bentley gliding down PCH is one tattooed across my psyche. But driving one myself? Please. That is a privilege reserved for those whose business cards have CEO in the title. Those with rocks on their fingers the size of walnuts. People with Sir Richard Branson on speed dial and who rent out the entire Beverly Hills hotel on 4 July because they didn’t want to be disturbed during breakfast. It’s a car reserved for those who do in a world of those who don’t.
As I drove this immaculate piece of machinery down the spidery highways of Dubai to pick up two unsuspecting girl-friends visiting from London—let’s call them M and N—I pulled up to the front of their hotel. Their mirrored expressions of incredulous wonder told me everything I needed to know.
“Is this your car, Anton?!”
Sure, I may have been guilty of letting the story marinate for an hour or so, but as our friendship dates back nearly a decade. Eventually, they saw through my charade. Still. Bolting through Dubai in a Bentley on our way to Hakkasan for dinner wasn’t so terrible.
A Bentley is like an award. It’s something you earn after years of hard work and dedication. Something the universe grants you when it feels you are finally deserving of such prestige. This is where you get to park right by the entrance, letting others know that it is a restaurant worth eating at, and you are worth eating there.
Growing up, I had a friend whose parents owned, among many other things, two private jets and a yacht. They also had a white show-poodle named Bentley. I used to think that was silly. Now I get it.
Materiality is something that Zegna is exceptionally familiar with, having established itself as a fabric producer long before dressing discerning men around the world. It has been well over 110 years since the very foundations of Zegna were laid and the brand continues to innovate—both in its use of materials crafted with luxurious handfeel as well as its level of craftsmanship.
The Zegna Triple Stitch is the marriage of those two facets of innovations. This is a shoe that's relatively minimal in its aesthetic. Especially when compared to the other footwear designs out there in the luxury fashion space. An existing style reworked by artistic director Alessandro Sartori in 2019, the shoes remained a staple of Zegna's wardrobe since. Sartori's directional idea of menswear, specifically tailoring, as existing in the realm of both casual and formal is extended to the Triple Stitch. It's not exactly a sneaker nor is it a formal shoe—it's neither and somewhat both at the same time.
Like every stellar silhouette, the Triple Stitch has gone through a number of variations and technical improvements since its introduction. Its signature trio of elastic crosses right at the shoe's tongue, however, have stayed unchanged albeit rendered in different colours.
The Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN is the latest and perhaps the most technical interpretation by Zegna. As its name suggests, this update feels incredibly soft and supple—like second skin. And it's not as though the Triple Stitch wasn't already a comfortable pair of shoes to begin with. For the SECONDSKIN variation, it takes it up a few notches. This time by heightening the luxurious feel of the shoe.
The inspiration for the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN came from tapping on the durability and exceptional lightness of leather typically reserved for gloves. But to fully incorporate the best characteristics of glove leather, the Triple Stitch had to first be deconstructed. The airy, lightweight appeal of the glove leather has been put into focus with a newly designed toe counter as well as a Strobel construction. The latter is typically seen in athletic sneakers and is further improved in the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN with fine lining.
The result is undoubtedly, the softest and lightest Triple Stitch yet. The glove leather-tanning technique imbues the shoe with a texture that offers a form-retaining feel. At the same time, it enhances the natural strength and durability of the leather. They’re attributes that one would normally associate with technical footwear. But here, just like Sartori’s menswear, they craft a new creation that looks and feel like it’s of two worlds.
Louis Vuitton has been busy of late. An ambassador announcement, a recent AW24 Menswear showcase and now, an LV-launched chocolate shop on our shores. It seems odd that the brand known for their steamer trunks would dip their toes (or fingers) into chocolate. But having taste the results, it'd seem that the Maison has another winner on its hands.
The opening of Le Chocolat Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton at Marina Bay Sands, marks the debut of the confectionary store beyond its French borders. Created and produced by Maxime Frédéric, the celebrated Chef Pâtissier of the Cheval Blanc Paris, the chocolates are made with premium ingredients in the heart of Paris.
Hailing from Normandy, Chef Frédéric draws from the wisdom of les secrets de nos vergers (the secrets of the orchards). From his farm's chicken breeds to the special hazelnut variety he cultivates, each ingredient is chosen for its distinct flavour. When not sourced directly from his farm, he opts for top-tier supplies, like milk from his friends operating a dairy farm in Normandy. Chocolates are also sourced from small-scale cocoa farmers in Vietnam, Peru, Madagascar, Dominican Republic and São Tome.
Chef Frédéric met with the artisans behind the emblematic LV trunks at the historic home of Louis Vuitton in Asnières. Seeing how the brand upholds craftsmanship, Chef Frédéric said that he saw "a lot of similarities between his work in patisseries and the work of the LV artisans". "Whether it’s a woodworker or a locksmith for the trunks. It’s about handcrafted workmanship," Chef Frédéric says, "and that’s completely in line with our work as artisan pastry chefs, bakers and chocolatiers.”
With prices starting at SGD30, these exquisite chocolates offer an unexpectedly accessible taste of luxury. Like the Damier-shaped Chocolate Tablets, Monogram Flower... even the Chocolate Bar, each piece is inspired by Louis Vuitton's iconic motifs. They bring across a sense of child-like wonderment and are as delightful as they are indulgent.
His centrepiece creations—Vivienne on Malle and the Petula—showcase his ingenuity and mastery in chocolate craftsmanship. Inspired by the Vivienne music box, the Vivienne on Malle (SGD420) is confection wonder. Made of intricate chocolate gear mechanisms thanks to Chef Frédéric's construction, a twist of the chocolate key, Vivienne pirouettes.
The Petula (SGD230), another iconic mascot from Louis Vuitton, also brings an enchanting surprise for clients. Designed like a piñata, each Petula chocolate figure is generously filled with coated hazelnuts. Whack one open and watch the contents spill out.
Recognised for its expertise and the quality of its products, Rolex stays true to the notion of perpetual excellence instilled by its founder, Hans Wilsdorf. This led to a slew of watchmaking innovations. Such as the Perpetual 1908, a masterpiece that’s inspired by the iconic Oyster Perpetual from 1931.
With its legacy ever in the rear-view mirror, the 1908 is a testimony of historic codes with ground-breaking watchmaking innovations. “1908” is the given name of the model. It's an homage to the year Wilsdorf devised the name “Rolex” to sign his creations and registered the brand in Switzerland. It is also a promise of unparalleled performance. Imagine the Oyster Perpetual timepiece but in a slimmer, sleeker design that’s replete with the brand’s signature style.
Crafted in 18k yellow or white gold, the slim case aggrandises a transparent back; a window into its beating heart—the movement finishings within. The innovative calibre 7140 is what powers the watch. A brand-new self-winding movement that is meticulously developed and manufactured by the Swiss Manufacture’s engineers. With two centre hands and a small seconds display, the calibre 7140 is a pinnacle of innovation, backed by five patent applications.
Caged within the sleek watch case is the essence of Rolex’s engineering prowess: the innovation of the oscillator, the Chronergy escapement, the Syloxi hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, just to name a few. The 1908 offers a substantial power reserve. Approximately 66 hours of chronometric performance (–2/+2 seconds per day) to keep it ticking without worry of pause.
Distinct Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12, along with a small seconds subdial at six o’clock beautifully reinterprets the 1931 Oyster Perpetual style. It paints the timepiece in a contemporary allure.
The 1908 is fitted on an alligator strap that comes in either matte brown or matte black. This elegant strap with a green calfskin lining and tone-on-tone stitching, is individually tailored for the new watch. It is equipped with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp, in 18 ct yellow or white gold. Thanks to its carefully designed shape, the Dualclasp always sits centred on the wrist.
The 1908 is a timepiece, yes. But it is also a milestone, a testament of a brand’s storied mastery and its perpetual quest for excellence.
On a warm afternoon in the middle of nowhere, Antony Lindsay, the newly-appointed CEO of Fabergé sits before us as the ice in a glass next to an unopened can of Coke, tinkles as it melts. As the CEO of a storied brand like Fabergé, Lindsay’s task is to spread the word (and work) of the Romanov’s favourite jewellery house. With Sincere Watch Limited as its official retailer in Singapore, Fabergé continues to make its presence known. And yes, Fabergé is synonymous with the gem-encrusted eggs but the house has other achievements like jewelled boxes; animals carved out of precious stones and other ornamental objects.
In 2007, the brand underwent a revival. Taking inspiration from its storied past, Fabergé created original pieces like the Vissionnaire watches, where a Chronograph model displays two time zones at once, and the Altruist line, which has a clean and simple-to-read dial, with a crown that’s reminiscent of winding up a traditional clock. The collection that secured Fabergé’s footing in the hard jewellery world is the Compliquée models, which won the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award.
As water pool at the bottom of the glass, Lindsay talks to us. About his history, where Fabergé is at and the future.
ESQUIRE: Did Sean Gilbertson (Fabergé’s last CEO) leave you with any wisdom when you took over?
ANTONY LINDSAY: [laughs] There’s been many over the years. I’ve known Sean, coming up to almost 14 years, and we shared some moments, both good and challenging. Nothing springs to mind... except for this Winston Churchill quote, “If you ever find yourself going through hell, keep walking.”
ESQ: What’s your journey been like?
AL: I come from a family of jewellers and had an interest in gemmology at a young age. I’ve been neurolinguistically programmed to appreciate jewellery, timepieces and objets d’art just by hanging out at my dad’s atelier on the weekends. I’d look at the gemstones handled by the craftspeople. I have an appreciation for hard luxury and completed my apprenticeship as a bench jeweller. I’m proud of having played such an important role within Fabergé for about 14 years. I’ve worn different hats as well. Proud when I was appointed MD and was invited to join the board of Gemfields UK Limited. As well as becoming CEO this year.
I feel privileged and fortunate to be part of a team to write the next chapter of one of the most celebrated names in luxury. I see that as an honour. It’s the revival of the coloured gemstones on one hand and it’s also the revival of Fabergé on the other. It’s what keeps us very busy.
ESQ: What sets Fabergé apart from the rest of your competition?
AL: I’d say that Fabergé’s reputation for unrivalled craftsmanship and design is globally recognised. I’d say Fabergé’s diverse use of techniques like the guilloché enamel with the use of hard stone or visible setting. In keeping with tradition, we seek to work with the finest ateliers. Because we don’t have our own workshop, we seek out workmasters all around the world. That’s quite unique to us.
ESQ: Speaking of tradition, how do you maintain that heritage while courting the newer generation?
AL: That’s a good question. It’s important to us that we pay homage and recognise what was done in the past. We draw inspiration from Peter Carl Fabergé, whether that be through his philosophies, values or craftsmanship. To apply it in a modern and contemporary and relevant way; we like to consider ourselves as a forward-thinking brand.
ESQ: How did your partnership with Sincere come about?
AL: I’d say that we are actively looking to partner with the finest retailers in existence. We don’t profess to understand every market on the planet. So, we believe that by partnering with the best of the best, who understands how to represent a brand like Fabergé; and how to offer first-class customer service... that’s very important to us. Sincere Watch Group is the perfect fit for Fabergé and we’re delighted that they are representing us here in Singapore and soon in other parts of South East Asia.
ESQ: What would you introduce to someone new to Fabergé?
AL: I would introduce the Compliquée Peacock watch, which is quintessentially Fabergé. We took inspiration from the Imperial Peacock Egg and, in keeping with the Fabergé tradition, we sought out the finest watch movement manufacturer and that led us to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor and now his two sons, Nicolas and Laurent, who run the business on a day-to-day basis. Throughout the discussions with them, we made the Peacock watch that has a special retrograde movement, that functions off four gears, and that allows us to add a feature for the peacock’s tail to unfurl.
ESQ: Peacocks, playing cards; are there other motifs that will utilise that movement in the future?
AL: There are some plans and they are confidential. [laughs]
ESQ: You talked about Fabergé as a book that you’re proud to be part of. What is the next chapter?
AL: To continue this revival and personally—and I know I speak on behalf of my co-workers—it’s about ensuring that the Fabergé story can still be told. What Fabergé symbolises is more than simply luxury and decadence. For us, it’s about creating prized possessions that can stand the test of time and be passed down through the generations. That’s important to us and runs through our DNA. You can scour through Christie’s and see that Fabergé is one of the highly sought-after hard luxury names in existence.
And just like that, the Christmas decorations have gone down and we're on our way to celebrate a new Lunar Year. It's a rather special one too—the Year of the Dragon is arguably the most celebrated of the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac. It may not have topped the mythological race that determined the order of the Lunar Calendar (that honour goes to the Rat, for the uninitiated) but the Dragon's powerful stature and connotations confer it the most favoured Zodiac.
It's a given then that the Year of the Dragon capsule collections this year have been amped up in line with the Dragon's popularity as well as its sought-after traits of power, nobility, success, and luck.
We can't guarantee that your year will be for the better wearing even just one of these new threads. But at the very least, you're taking some ownership of it and that's something even the most skeptic of persons could get behind.
Kenzo's capsule collection features motifs that you're already familiar with from the brand. The Kenzo tiger remains a key insignia that's apparent in the collection's ready-to-wear range, with a dragon motif making its appearance. On Kenzo bombers, souvenir jackets, hoodies and more, the dragon takes a figure-eight formation, while a more stylised interpretation is fitted onto back pockets of denims and a slew of lightweight jerseys and tracksuits.
The Kenzo Lunar New Year capsule is now available in Kenzo boutiques.
Newly crowned Bottega Veneta brand ambassador Shu Qi stars in The First Sunrise with You, a campaign short by director Jess Jing Zou. The film depicts scenes of Shu Qi and a host of other individuals—friends, romantic partners, and families—venturing out and watching the sun rise in anticipation of a new year. Accompanying them are a number of pieces specially crafted to the Year of the Dragon. The Orbit sneakers are rendered in new colours (including a rather soothing orange), a dragon motif is interwoven as part if the House's Intrecciato technique on a tote, and the beloved Jodie is trimmed with a handle inspired by a dragon's tail.
Dior Men's version of the Dragon is perhaps the most adorable of the lot. In collaboration with Japanese artist Otani Workshop, Tanilla the green monster is the central character that's featured in a myriad of ways throughout the capsule collection. The dragon-like creature is prominent on a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including on the Dior Oblique in Lunar New Year appropriate burgundy and pink hues. Splashes of red run rampant throughout too—both as a nod to one of Monsieur Dior's favourite colours as well as the festivities.
The Dior & Otani Workshop capsule collection is now available in Dior Men boutiques and on dior.com.
Emporio Armani taps on its global ambassador Jackson Yee to be the face of its Year of the Dragon collection. The colour palette of the collection is kept relatively simple and wearable with black and red. The Emporio Armani logo is then paired with an embroidered dragon motif—both done largely in gold—to pile on the symbols of prosperity and fortune. Opt for just one single piece from the collection and you're good to go.
Like many others in this edit, Polo Ralph Lauren's latest Lunar New Year collection sees its very own interpretation of the dragon. The brand takes a more traditional slant with a multicoloured version placed front and centre on clasic Polo Ralph Lauren staples. But what the brand captured exceptionally well is the shade of red—a tasteful hue that's not too bright and not too muted. It's beautifully executed on a reworked Oxford shirt decorated with frog fastenings, and even a classic jumper.
The Polo Ralph Lauren Lunar New Year collection is now available in stores and online.
Trust Loewe to commission master craftsmen as part of its Lunar New Year capsule collection. Simply referred to as the Jade collection, master jade carvers Xiaojin Yin, Qijing Qiu, and Lei Cheng each created a series of five limited edition pendants mounted onto gold chains. In addition to the limited edition pieces, Loewe expands its Flamenco series with the Purse Mini bags in colours inspired by antique jade carvings, with each bag containing an attached ring of jade in its corresponding colour on the inside. Charms and key chains are also part of the mix—each combined with signature Loewe motifs.
The Loewe Jade collection is now available in boutiques and online.
MCM and BAPE® return for another capsule collection. This time, the BAPE® logo is entwined with a dragon and is featured on every piece in the collection, including a Visetos-decorated Shark hoodie. MCM's signature silhouettes the likes of its Backpack, Belt Bag, Crossbody, Boston and more, have been transformed even further with the inclusion of a transparent version of BAPE®'s camouflage pattern. This is definitely not a collection for anyone with minimalist leanings.
The MCM and BAPE® collaboration is now available in select MCM and BAPE® stores.
Burberry does things the Burberry way. Building on British wardrobe archetypes and Burberry signatures, its Lunar New Year collection refreshes classic checks and house motifs in vibrant hues of red. The seasonal rose motif is also seen in full bloom, perfectly matching new eyewear styles. And if you need a reference of how to pull off the collection's patterns, you'd only need to look to brand ambassador Chen Kun for inspiration.
The Burberry Lunar New Year collection is now available in boutiques and online.
The Moncler logo has been reimagined specifically for its latest Lunar New Year collection. The outline has been replaced with the head of a dragon. Three looks for men have been created for the collection, with quilting designed to resemble the scales of a dragon and body armour. So if you've already made plans for the last remnants of snow on the slopes or just a winter holiday over Lunar New Year, there's no better collection than this.
The Moncler Year of the Dragon collection is now available in select Moncler boutiques.
The OG dragon of the Pokémon series, Dragonite, together with its pre-evolutions take centrestage in a three-way collaboration with Fendi, Hiroshi Fujiwara's Fragment, and Pokémon. The collaboration goes as simple as a tee and hoodie printed with the charismatic dragon Pokémon to leather marquetry of Dratini and Dragonite on Mini Baguette and Baguette bags respectively. Galvanised brass jewellery combines the FF logo with Pokémon signatures such as a Poké Ball (that opens up to reveal the FF logo) as well as Dratini and Dragonair.
The Fendi x FRGMT x Pokémon collection is now available in select Fendi boutiques and online.
Considering that Hedi Slimane is constantly inspired by music and uses it as a way of crafting the narrative of each collection—his runway shows for Celine often involves commissioned music pieces—Celine-branded audio accessories ought to be a given. It has been almost six years since he's assumed the position of the luxury brand's creative, artistic and image director, and we're finally getting just that.
The first Celine wireless headphones made their debut on the brand's Summer 2024 womenswear runway. To the tune of a specially commissioned extended version of "Too Much Love" by LCD Soundsystem, the all-black headphones were seen around the necks of a number of models—styled as an accessory to complete a look more than anything. But thankfully, they're capable of more than making one look a tad cool.
Celine has partnered up with Master & Dynamic for its first foray into the audio space. If you're already familiar with Master & Dynamic, you'd know that the audio brand is universally known for its make, rich audio quality, and signature design. Celine's variation is an aesthetic update of the MH40 model identifiable by its lightweight anodised aluminium body. Both the headband and removable ear pads are crafted from supple lambskin, with the capabilities of the MH40—Bluetooth 5.2 connectivity, noise isolation, and up to 30 hours of battery life—ensuring that the audio experience is as luxe as it gets.
While its runway debut only showcased the all-black iteration, the Celine headphones come in three colourways: the aforementioned all-black, black and silver, and tan and silver. The black-and-silver iteration features "Celine" right on the exterior of each speaker; the all-black as well as the tan-and-silver colourways are decorated with the Celine Triomphe motif at the same spots. The partnership goes as far as adding more subtle details such as "Celine Paris" laser-engraved on the included charging cables, and "Designed and developed in Paris" marked on the right headphone.
The retail price? Well, it is a collaborative effort and branded with the signatures of a luxury fashion house so SGD1,350 isn't exactly out of left field. At the very least, it does more than say, a white shirt by Celine that also retails for around the same price.
The Celine wireless headphones will be available in boutiques and online soon.
If you're already feeling the blues about being officially back to work after a weekend of some intense New Year-partying (the hangover doesn't get any easier, does it?), RIMOWA is turning those emotions into something more pleasant. That's right, a few days in to 2024 and we're already getting a new colour for the RIMOWA Essential series.
Like the many other colours prior, Sea Blue takes inspiration from the myriad of destinations that a RIMOWA luggage could potentially bring one to. While the rest may have been more specific in their points of reference, Sea Blue takes a more generic approach but one that just about anyone can appreciate. The regenerative influence of the sea—pretty appropriate given the new year—inspired the soft, pastel-hued Sea Blue that's still richly saturated yet calming at the same time. It's best captured in the series of shorts lensed by Francesco Nazardo. Set against the interiors and poolside of a 1950s home located in the outskirts of Barcelona, the Sea Blue series is beautifully highlighted as a soothing accessory.
If you're already familiar with RIMOWA's Essential series, its interior remains dependable as ever albeit slightly reworked. What used to be two separate compartments divided by the brand's adjustable Flex Divider, one side is now equipped with fully zipped lining designed for more secure storage. The main compartment (where the telescopic handles are housed) is separated by the Flex Divider that's also fitted with a zipped compartment enough for small loose items.
Aside from the main trio of the Essential collection—Cabin, Check-In L, and Trunk Plus—Sea Blue is also available in a range of travel accompaniments. A toiletry pouch and packing cubes in three different sizes complete the offering meant to help make organisation a breeze.
Question now is: Where's the destination?
The RIMOWA Essential collection in Sea Blue will be available in boutiques and online from 4 January 2024.
When the Horsebit loafer was first conceived by Gucci—specifically by Aldo Gucci, the eldest son of founder Guccio Gucci—it was said to be a response to loafers popularised by preppy Americans. Gucci was to open its first New York City boutique in 1953. The Horsebit loafer was the perfect design to kickstart an American expansion. It was a familiar silhouette with the addition of an Italian flair—very Gucci.
The use of the snaffle bit within Gucci predates the Horsebit loafer. The House had already incorporated it since the 1950s when it began drawing inspiration from the equestrian world. The metallic double ring connected by a bar was taken from the bit on a horse’s bridle, and was used across different facets of the Gucci universe both as a decorative motif as well as a functional element.
One could even say that the creation of the Horsebit loafer was destined to happen. But its arrival at a time when dress codes were changing in favour of more liberal sensibilities, helped propel its popularity. Not only was the Horsebit loafer instantly recognisable, its make and comfort was a mark of Italian craftsmanship. The leather used is supple, and coupled with a construction that lacks an insole, makes the Horsebit loafer lightweight and flexible. One could easily run around in a pair and get it beaten down. Or like Tyler Durden in Fight Club, fight in one.
Gucci has seen numerous creative directors over the decades since, but the Horsebit loafers have been a mainstay. Various interpretations have been brought to the fore recently and will most likely continue to do so under the creative directorship of Sabato De Sarno. Yet, 70 years hasn’t changed the way the Horsebit loafers are crafted. To this day, they’re still produced in Italy, in house, by skilled cobblers. The soles of the Horsebit loafers are also still attached to the uppers with Blake stitching that affords the shoes’ their renowned lightweight and flexible attributes.
The GG monogram and green-red-green webbing may be synonymous with Gucci. But when it comes to a singular design, the Horsebit loafer is one that doesn’t need to be loud to be noticed.
We don’t need to tell you that your fragrance does say quite a bit about you. What you like, where your energy level is at, and even your personality might be discerned from the fragrances you gravitate towards. In the same manner, fragrances can be a tool of projection: you can use them quite effectively to communicate an initial visual impression—be it a sense of confidence, mystery or playfulness.
In the spirit of new beginnings for the new year, there’s absolutely no better time than the present to pause and reset your fragrance roster. While that may seem like we’re asking you to consider more mild-weight options, that’s absolutely not the case. This edit of fragrances—some perennial favourites with a few new releases thrown in—are meant to reintroduce a more refreshing scent profile that cuts right through headier bodies.
Think of this edit as the base on which to build on. The overall profile may be generally clean, but that really allows the opportunity to layer and mix to create ever more nuanced scents.
Istanbul-based perfume brand NISHANE has been around for only a decade, yet its growing presence in more than 120 countries is a mark of its niche extrait fragrances. A consistent top-selling fragrance across its entire repertoire, Hundred Silent Ways is part of a collection inspired by 13th-century poet Rumi. The fragrance starts with a citrus top note, which then settles into a vanilla body. The new Hundred Silent Ways X is a reworked version created as a celebration of the brand’s 10th anniversary and leans even more heavily on the original’s gourmand body, adding on leather to amplify the sensuality of the fragrance. The top notes remain prevalent, making this a thoroughly balanced scent.
L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Iris de Gris ranks top as the freshest fragrance in this edit. Part of the fragrance house’s Le Potager collection—a series dedicated to the use of vegetable notes in perfumery—Iris de Gris employs the use of a pea accord as the defining element of the fragrance. You smell it almost immediately, a crisp freshness that’s surprisingly reminiscent of a freshly picked and washed bag of peas. But of course, you won’t exactly be smelling like the vegetable. Iris and galbanum add refinement to the fragrance, with the mint (part of the concocted pea accord) lifting the fresh quality of Iris de Gris.
As classic as they come, English Pear & Freesia is a quintessential Jo Malone fragrance that is the perfect balance of sweet and sensual. It’s not cloyingly sweet in any way, thanks to the main King William Pear note that gives a juicy expression to the fragrance. As with many of Jo Malone scents, the patchouli base provides for the fragrance’s longevity—this one sticks to your skin for awhile despite being a lightweight cologne formulation. While English Pear & Freesia is categorised as a women’s perfume (but what exactly is the point of gender labels in the world of fragrances?), its floral notes lean on the lighter side and, if anything, add a touch of freshness to the overall scent.
Just like the previous fragrance on this list, H24 is created by Christine Nagel, the current in-house perfumer of Hermès. There’s a reason why Nagel is a celebrated perfumer and H24 is one of many examples of her refined take on perfumery. This eau de parfum formulation of H24 is headier than its eau de toilette predecessor but still retains a metallic note—thanks to the inclusion of sclarene—that’s signature to the fragrance. This metallic element cuts through to bring about a fragrance that perhaps isn’t for everyone. But the unique quality of it definitely sets the H24 apart from any other woody and musk-heavy fragrances out there.
The latest addition to Celine’s bath and body range—a range that was only introduced this year—is its first cologne. There’s an overall powdery radiance to Cologne Céleste brought about by notes of orris butter that ties it to the house’s refined haute parfumerie collection. Cologne Céleste, however, is designed to be an after-bath ritual meant to reinvigorate and soothe. The intended effect is brought about by the cologne’s more refreshing citrus and floral notes comprising neroli, orange blossom and sweet lemon essence. And as a way of bringing back old-school self-care gestures, Cologne Céleste can either be used as a splash (think Macaulay Culkin in Home Alone) or as a classic perfume with the removable metal pump included. Either way, the cologne is one you can easily incorporate as an everyday go-to.
Rather multi-faceted in essence, Gucci’s A Floral Verse is quite a journey, beginning with floral notes that then bring you to a green middle before settling down to a white musk base. A Floral Verse opens with Indian jasmine sambac that’s a splendid combination of floral, with semblances of warmth. The middle Sri Lankan black tea note provides a dry expression that counters the more floral elements of the Indian jasmine sambac, while at the same time infuses a dose of smokiness. The name may allude to a floral-heavy fragrance, but A Floral Verse is actually more green than floral, and layers easily with more robust fragrances.
Photography: Jayden Tan
Photography Assistant: Aisyah Hisham
In 1967, Marc Bohan conceptualised the Dior Oblique motif. The longtime creative director of the House (an almost 30-year tenure) first applied the motif on a bag from Dior’s haute couture collection in 1969. Throughout the years, the Dior Oblique has been applied on all manner of pieces by the House— from ready-to-wear to luggage to even the floors of its Dior Monsieur boutique in 1974.
Fast forward to today, the Dior Oblique remains one of Dior’s most quintessential elements. It’s become a mark of the House’s creativity with a range of treatments and interpretations imagined every now and then. The latest, is perhaps one that captures Monsieur Dior’s nonconformist spirit.
The Maxi Dior Oblique revokes any decree that branded logos and motifs are dead. As its name suggests, the Dior Oblique has been blown up like never before for Dior Men’s Spring 2024 collection. Each letter of the motif now takes significant real estate on a range of travel-ready bags and accessories. The collection’s Weekender 40 bag, for example, looks exceptionally roomier with the Maxi Dior Oblique canvas construction giving the illusion of a magnified proportion.
While the Maxi Dior Oblique may look audacious in its original colourway—there’s certainly no mistaking that it’s a Dior—a second all-black option provides a more subtle interpretation but one that’s impactful all the same. The Maxi Dior Oblique is rendered in black and set against a base that’s a couple of shades lighter. When employed on a pair of high-top B23 sneakers, the canvas adds depth and dimension. The motif may not be immediately obvious at first glance, but becomes apparent at multiple angles and in motion.
But the point of the Maxi Dior Oblique isn’t solely for the brash visual of Dior’s signature. It’s an extension of the Dior attitude—of going against the grain and challenging perceptions. After all, this is the same House that proposed a “new look” that further feminised women’s fashion post-World War II.
What’s the inverse of “quiet luxury”? This is it.
