The show that never was. Celine Homme's cancelled Summer 2024 runway show (and its planned after-party with live performances) in July 2023—in light of the protests happening in Paris at the time—turned into a short film. Shot in the same month, it was largely filmed in Paris with interspersed scenes of classical ballet dancer Laurids Seidel shot at the Opéra Garnier Monte-Carlo.
An extended version of LCD Soundsystem's "Losing My Edge" is the soundtrack to the film, bringing the mirrored set to life as models embodying the collection's amplified androgyny walked on in succession. Artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane's aesthetic lies in the rock-and-roll androgyny synonymous with the legendary figures the likes of David Bowie and Mick Jagger. For Summer 2024 however, Slimane took it up a few notches with the adoption of more feminine elements that, quite frankly, Jagger could probably still rock right now.
At heart of the Celine Homme Summer 2024 collection's inspiration was Slimane's prior photography works in the early noughties. New York's underground art scene—featuring artists such as Dash Snow, Slater Bradley, Mathew Cerlett, Dan Colen, Gardar Eide Einarsson, Terence Koh and others—became the focus of an exhibition that Slimane curated in 2007 in Berlin. He later went on to stage his own in Amsterdam as tribute to the same artists. And as somewhat of a culmination of this continued love and tribute for the scene, Slimane also worked with Snow's estate to include artworks from his archive for the collection.
The fit: The standard Slimane look was apparent in Summer 2024. Impeccable tailoring finished off with skinny ties were nods to his Dior Homme era, but then elevated with rhinestones that seemed to give off their own luminescence with every movement. Leather was a heavy focus as seen with trousers crafted with a slight flare as well as some of the collection's standout moments. The latter saw the beautiful execution of a leather jacket with sleeves that ballooned out, inspired by 17th-century French court royalty.
The newness that Slimane injected into the collection (and let's face it, the man does what he wants and sometimes that equates to tried-and-tested looks) came in the form of more feminine nuances. Referencing couture constructions and silhouettes, bustiers took on exaggerated ribbon-like forms that wrapped around the waist, and in one look, a leather version was crafted with off-the-shoulder sleeves that seemed to levitate away from the body.
The details: As with most Slimane creations, there was a thoroughly nonchalant attitude about the collection. Sheer fabrications were dressed with rhinestones and sequins, with bare skin almost a given under leather outerwear and embellished cardigans. The same magpie-esque treatment was given to a number of heeled boots for that extra rock-and-roll flair.
Three exceptional looks: The opening look that consisted of a halter-neck top wrapped with satin a bow; look 36's disco-treated suiting; and look 47's billowy top that Harry Styles would certainly look at home in.
The takeaway: Slimane is not really a one-trick pony.
View some of the key looks from the Celine Homme Summer 2024 collection in the gallery below.