There have been plenty of articles attempting to critically analyse Burberry's current strategy—both creatively as well as from a marketing standpoint. It has become a continuously profound struggle for Burberry, a heritage brand that has been experiencing a sort of fall from financial grace for years now, to find that balance between being fashion-forward and desirable.
The Burberry Summer 2025 runway show proved that chief creative officer Daniel Lee has perhaps found that balance after almost two years of steering the brand back to its British roots. Noticeably, there were a few design elements that Lee initiated in his first few collections that he's now seemed to forgo this time around. The Burberry Check is back in its original rendering after seasons of being skewed at an attempt to modernise the motif, while the revived Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) wasn't as prominent.
Lee likens the collection as a continuation of Winter 2024. "An easy elegance that feels inviting for summer. We want the pieces to feel welcoming, and for the wearers to feel confident," he says. Cue the much softer approach in terms of fabrications, treatments as well as colour palette—as though to say that these pieces are indeed wearable and easy enough buy into.
The fit: A lot of the Burberry Summer 2025 collection's focus is on the military aspects of the brand's heritage. It's evident from the overall swathe of pastel, washed out and weathered colourways that Lee's intention was to highlight Burberry's more utilitarian functionality. The collection's outerwear pieces remained key grounding elements and inherently made the collection Burberry. This time, trench coats were reconstructed into asymmetric jackets, a couple of slightly cropped iterations as well as multi-pocket field jacket versions. They were all season-appropriate—crafted in lightweight silk, linen or bonded wool.
The zipped elements from Winter 2024 made a return on the runway. They were featured on a number of zipped trousers styled open at the knees to further accentuate the roominess of the cut. Where pockets weren't adorned with weatherproof flaps, zipped details reinforced utilitarian elements as well as versatile styling proposals.
Overall, the collection excelled at reimagining Burberry house codes without needing to shout with bold graphics or an overuse of branded signatures and motifs. Silhouettes felt easy to wear with chic simplicity apparent throughout the collection. In some cases, perhaps, they were too simple in execution, especially when broken into individual pieces. Together though, the styling felt the most Burberry that Lee has crafted thus far.
The details: A complete overhaul of the bag offerings seemed to be intentional. The collection saw introductions of completely new styles all designed to be unlined and relaxed. The Country comes as a crossbody, bucket bag and tote in grainy leather with the Burberry Check, while the B Clip—named after its b-shaped front fastening—is a new messenger bag, tote and holdall in tumbled leather and suede with the addition of a rather stunning Burberry Check style in patchwork leather.
Three exceptional looks: The super chic opening look styled almost like a regal, royal officer; look 32's classic Burberry Check rendered in a deep hue for a truly utilitarian ensemble; and the timeless silhouette of look 47.
The takeaway: Lee has found a balance between his own leanings and Burberry's Britishness—how open customers will be to adapting remains the brand's challenge.
View the full Burberry Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.
It was quite a historic 76th Primetime Emmy Awards.
For one, it's actually the second Primetime Emmy Awards ceremony held in 2024 since the 75th edition was pushed back to January of this year in light of 2023 Hollywood labour disputes. Actors Eugene and Dan Levy were the ceremony's co-hosts of the evening—the first time that a father-and-son duo co-hosted the Emmys—that saw the FX series Shōgun gaining historic wins. Leading with 25 nominations (including 17 at the Creative Emmy Awards), Shōgun won Outstanding Drama Series, and leads Hiroyuki Sanada and Anna Sawai were awarded with Outstanding Lead Actor and Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series respectively—making history as the first Japanese actor and actress to do so in each category.
On the red carpet, the best-dressed men celebrated cultures, made impactful statements, and defied traditional notions of menswear. Richard Gadd (who won three awards for Baby Reindeer) arrived in a Loewe kilt, Alan Cumming completed his Teddy Vonranson tartan-incorporated ensemble with a trans flag pin, and Reservation Dogs actor D’Pharaoh Woon-A-Tai sported a red handprint over his face as a means of drawing attention to the Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women (MMIW) movement.
And sure, there may have been the usual black tuxedos but there were also plenty of choices that strayed from the classic. Esquire Singapore cover star Taylor Zakhar Perez opted for a monochromatic brown Gucci fit, while Finn Bennett's Saint Laurent choice as well as Jonathan Bailey in Giorgio Armani were sleek displays of elegant tailoring.
All in all, a winning evening for men's fashion.
View the best menswear looks at the red carpet of the 2024 Primetime Emmy Awards in the gallery below.
Burberry is the final big-named house on the London Fashion Week calendar and it's poised to bring some newness. Unlike previous runway shows by chief creative officer Daniel Lee, the Burberry Summer 2025 runway show will be staged indoors as opposed to the brand erecting a tent. Lee has also enlisted English artist Gary Hume to design the set of the show.
There's been a consistent Britishness about Lee's creative direction at Burberry—rooting designs on the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) seen above, reimagining Burberry's trench icons, as well as silhouettes that lean on familiar English heritage. It's highly likely that Lee will continue to do so, especially with teasers focusing on "born of function, grounded in heritage". The Burberry check is probably set on making a more prominent design element—but how that will look like remains to be seen.
For confirmation of what the Burberry Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday live from London Fashion Week.
What: Burberry Summer 2025 runway show
Where: London
When: Monday, 16 September 2024 at 11pm Singapore time
Italian craftsmanship traditions meet Indian artisanal techniques in the latest Tod's Factory project. Renowned Indian designer Rahul Mishra—known for his incredibly intricate creations that draw inspiration from India's rich cultural heritage—reimagines a range of Tod's icons for both men and women, adding touches of opulence for pieces meant to be seen and admired.
Mishra explains that the Rahul Mishra x Tod's collection is a result of "drawing inspiration from nature, my constant muse, crafting classic in-house motifs and the distinctive foliage, synonymous with my designs". Kaarigar artisans were employed to decorate leather with embroideries reflecting nature. On the Tod's Gommino loafers and mules, these embroideries take on the shape of Mishra's Tree of Life motif and woven with silk on black velvet trimmed with leather for men, while women Gommino loafers are additionally done in a metallic nappa leather. Similar techniques are applied on the Di Bag and the Timeless T shoulder bag, amped up with sequins, crystals and beads.
More than simply introducing Indian artisanal techniques onto Tod's icons, the Tod's Factory project is an artistic dialogue. The project was launched in 2018, first with Italian fashion designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua and has since seen collaborations with creatives the likes of the late Alber Elbaz, Hender Scheme, as well as a three-prong with Moncler and Palm Angels. Tod's Factory allows these creatives access to the brand's craftsmen and savoir faire in Italy's Marche region, and of course, breathing new life to classic Tod's pieces.
This latest Tod's Factory edition is easily a standout based on the decorations alone. The Gommino loafers for men would make for the perfect evening option with suiting, while the Timeless T mules are an easy way of dressing up a classic white-shirt-and-jean pairing. Because when the pieces are this beautiful, they deserve all the spotlight.
The Rahul Mishra x Tod's collection is now available in boutiques and online.
We've all had that moment—standing in front of the closet, staring at a jacket or pair of jeans that feels a little too familiar, a little too predictable. Quoth Dolly Parton: "I never wear the same outfit twice." So, you wonder if there's a way to give it a fresh spin, something that stands out but still feels like you. This is where Martine Rose comes in. For nearly 20 years, Rose has been behind the scenes of menswear's most daring transformations. Her designs take those everyday staples—the jacket, the jeans, the hoodie—and reimagine them in ways that are both refreshing and unmistakably cool. Since her first runway collection in 2012, Rose has built a reputation for pushing the boundaries of masculinity through fashion, offering a perspective that's authentic as it is audacious.
Her work is all about remixing the familiar; adding the "extra" in ordinary. Think oversized proportions, unexpected fabrics and new takes on familiar silhouettes. Her designs aren't just about fashion—they're about culture, identity and expression. "My family's Jamaican," Rose says, "and there was a very, very particular respect for style. Fashion was something... almost basic; if you had style, that was something else."
Rose is taking her vision to the next level with a collab with Supreme for Autumn 2024. This collection is everything you'd expect from this powerhouse duo: leather jacket and trouser sets, down puffer jackets, a reversible denim trucker jacket, velour track jackets, and even Clarks Originals Desert Trek shoes. Each piece merges Supreme's streetwear swag with Rose's signature subversion of menswear.
The collection isn't just about making a statement—it's about reinventing those pieces we reach for every day. Whether it's a football jersey, hoodie or even a mini duffel bag, these items bring fresh energy to classic menswear. For those looking for a something a little more elevated, the suit, sweater and shirt options offer a sharp contrast to the streetwear staples, showcasing the versatility of this collaboration.
So if you're looking for a way to break out of that predictable wardrobe rut, this is it.
The Supreme®/Martine Rose® collection is available at Dover Street Market Singapore.
Considering that RIMOWA has been around for more than a century now, it's inevitable that the brand has evolved. What started out as a brand famed for pioneering aluminium and polycarbonate for use in suitcases—effectively changing the way people travel—is now a luxury lifestyle brand that still puts materiality, innovation and craftsmanship at the forefront.
RIMOWA's biggest shift was in 2020 when it launched its first series of lifestyle bags and accessories parked under the Never Still line. The soft, canvas constructions are trimmed with nylon and leather for hardy, urban-driven solutions that extend the brand's ethos of functional tools for a lifetime of movement beyond the travel space. Around the same time, a collaboration with Dior introduced the Personal case, which is essentially an Original suitcase shrunken into a crossbody bag or clutch, that now remains part of RIMOWA's core offerings and has birthed a Sling Clutch iteration. And just last year, the RIMOWA Signature line was launched with sustainable regenerated nylon as its base material.
Now, four years since its evolution into lifestyle bags and accessories, RIMOWA returns to its game-changing lightweight aluminium innovation for its first unisex handbag, the Original Bag.
Right off the bat, the design of the RIMOWA Original Bag is distinctively RIMOWA—the grooved design emblematic of the brand, the seamless colour-matched aesthetic, and the rounded reinforced corners. Like the Personal, you could consider it as a mini-sized Original suitcase but constructed and designed with updated functionality to adapt for its handbag use. It's crafted in aluminium with a leather handle that's further reinforced with an aluminium frame so that it's both comfortable and sturdy to hold on to as a top-handle bag. A branded webbing strap is included for added versatility so that it can be used as a shoulder bag or a crossbody bag.
Because the Original suitcases' locking mechanism wouldn't make complete sense to be adapted for a handbag (imagine having to fiddle with two clamps every few minutes), RIMOWA devised a new button mechanism that facilitates easy opening and closing of the Original Bag. And if you're familiar with the Original suitcases' handles that snap down flat with that rather satisfying clack, the same mechanism would be a potential annoyance for something that you'd reach for far often than a suitcase. The top handle on the RIMOWA Original Bag stays upright so you're able to grab it and go with ease, but it can also lay flat for a more sleek silhouette when not carried as a handbag. All very clearly thoughtfully crafted.
The interior of the Original Bag is fully lined with Italian-made leather with a roomy compartment. Considered touches include a zipped pocket as well as slots for cards; there's ample space for all that you'd need on the daily to go about your way.
This is a new chapter for RIMOWA and the Original Bag is most certainly just the beginning. You could say that this new design is a longtime coming but as they say, good things come to those who wait. And, boy, isn't this a good one.
The RIMOWA Original Bag in Silver and Black is now available at RIMOWA stores as well as online.
Elsa Peretti never dreamed of having castles in the sky, nor did she wish for money to grow on trees. Despite coming from wealth, the Italian model-turned-designer found herself financially cut off at 21 and had to work her way up. She supported herself by teaching Italian and skiing before deciding to try her hand at modelling, which led her to New York. There, new opportunities unfolded allowing her to showcase her talents.
Peretti began creating pieces for American fashion designer Halston and even had the opportunity to wear them on his runway. Halston later introduced her to Tiffany & Co., and whether it was luck or her undeniable talent, it only took 15 minutes for her to be hired. And five decades later, her work remains iconic and celebrated.
To mark the 50th anniversary of Peretti's icon, the House launched the Bone cuff as part of its "With love, Since 1837" campaign. Reintroduced earlier this year, the campaign celebrates the love, craftmanship and rich heritage that defines Tiffany & Co. and is inspired by legendary window designer Gene Moore. It sheds light on the untold stories behind Tiffany's most iconic jewellery collections while modernising Moore's famous vitrines with imaginative storytelling.
The "With love, Since 1837" campaign imagery draws inspiration from Moore's whimsical window displays, merging the extraordinary with the ordinary. The Bone cuff imagery, specifically, nods to Peretti's cultural impact in fashion as well as design. A floating hand gesturing upward references her signature modelling poses, and a ladybug perched on the index finger, pays tribute to the famed Bone cuff advertisement shot by Hiro, Peretti's close friend and photographer.
The Bone cuff remains as modern and timeless as ever with its sensual, sculptural form. The design is carefully sculpted to fit the contours of both the left and right wrists to allow for the cuff to seamlessly blend with the body. It has since been adapted into a number of other designs, bearing in mind the same design intent.
Like the Bone cuff, the Bone ring showcases Peretti's talent to transform simple forms into symbols of beauty and elegance. The Split ring adds a subtle edge with its central split while still retaining every bit of Peretti's Bone cuff curvatures.
Few designs stand the test of time, but Peretti's jewellery continue to captivate with enduring style and beauty.
The Tiffany & Co. Bone Cuff by Elsa Peretti collection is now available in stores and online.
It was on 10 April 2020 that Clare Waight Keller announced she was leaving Givenchy after serving the Maison for three years. Waight Keller was Givenchy's first-ever female creative director, and while that seemed to be the headlining achievement (partriachy, everybody), her time at the Maison was a creative breath of fresh air while paying homage to founder Hubert de Givenchy. Her designs—across womenswear, menswear, and haute couture—paid due reverence to the heritage of Givenchy while making them relevant in the modern context. Under Waight Keller, men's haute couture too became a more prominent pillar for the Maison.
For four years, Stefano Pilati served as head of design of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture (now simply rebranded as Zegna) where he made full use of the brand's mastery in fabrics to create menswear collections that would certainly qualify as "quiet luxury" in today's context. Pilati's creations were undoubtedly luxurious both in aesthetic as well as feel with designs that pushed Ermenegildo Zegna beyond the confines of traditional menswear.
Both Waight Keller and Pilati—albeit different in styles—share a similarity in that they both followed the traditional path of cutting their teeth at several fashion houses before eventually holding creative reins. Waight Keller started out as part of the design team at Calvin Klein before moving on to Ralph Lauren and then Gucci, while Pilati took on design roles at Giorgio Armani, Prada, Miu Miu, and Yves Saint Laurent. And of course, they're both celebrated fashion designers in their own right.
It's curious then that with the kind of experience and design excellence they both possess, Waight Keller and Pilati weren't snapped up by another big-named fashion house.
Then last year, Waight Keller announced her first solo venture: a new partnership with Uniqlo called Uniqlo : C. The brand—like most under Uniqlo's LifeWear umbrella—focuses on building a capsule wardrobe of staple pieces seen through her designer lens. It was launched with womenswear before introducing menswear in its third season this month. And then two weeks later, Uniqlo announced that Waight Keller's involvement has expanded to not only be the creative behind Uniqlo : C, but also as its creative director for the entirety of the Uniqlo mainline collection beginning from the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.
Pilati launched his own brand Random Identities in 2017 through Instagram. Inspired by Berlin's club scene and the ongoing shift of gendered clothing, Random Identities is stocked on SSENSE.com, Dover Street Market and a number of other select stockists. Much like Waight Keller with Uniqlo, Random Identities is also a departure from the luxury pricing of Pilati's former creations. The brand is certainly more affordable yet still with a design point-of-view. Pilati is doubling down on affordable fashion by recently embarking on a capsule collection with Zara slated for an October 2024 release.
Designer collaborations are rife in fashion, especially the likes that have been pushed by fast-fashion brands such as H&M and Zara. Uniqlo, in fact, has turned its collaborations into longstanding partnerships with Christophe Lemaire, Jonathan Anderson as well as Inès de la Fressange. And quite like with Waight Keller, Lemaire eventually became the creative director of the design-forward Uniqlo U line.
But designers moving out of luxury to more affordable fashion brands as their solo ventures is something that's quite uncommon.
In a 2023 interview with W Magazine, Waight Keller highlighted that the jump from working in a couture house to a brand like Uniqlo was challenging but only in achieving certain techniques at the latter's usual price point. "The brand was so open to understanding new techniques of finishing. I showed them examples of, this is how the spaghetti string that runs through the dresses should look; this is how it should balance. A lot of the things I did on a constant basis whilst I was in Paris are techniques that I was able to distribute through the collection as well. It’s just an innate way of working, or what I’ve absorbed over the years," she said. According to WWD, Pilati expressed similar sentiments about his time working with Zara, especially with the brand's capability of producing at standards above its price point.
It remains to be seen how Waight Keller's Uniqlo and Pilati's co-ed collection for Zara will each shape up to be, and whether the latter could inspire Zara to hire Pilati as its creative director. But what's certain is that there is still hope out there for honed skill and talent of real fashion designers in the fashion space. It may not be at the big fashion houses, but in the bigger scheme of things, they're helping to elevate the designs of pieces for the everyday and for everyone.
It might be odd to think that something as angular as this tote is called the Rocking Horse. The name actually refers to the line’s initial bag designs constructed with a curved base that allows them to easily rock like a rocking horse, and are distinguished by the “b” closure. Its tote incarnation keeps things classic with a briefcase-like silhouette for some serious corporate-appropriate style chops.
We could all do with some added height and when it comes to heeled boots, hardly anything comes close to Hedi Slimane’s versions for CELINE. These are cut in a familiar Chelsea shape for fuss-free slipping in and off and the pointed toes immediately help to elongate the legs further. Also, peep that subtle Triomphe branding right at the ankle—an extra touch of if-you-know-you-know branding.
Gucci’s connection with London’s The Savoy goes all the way back to when founder Guccio Gucci worked as a porter at the famed hotel. The experience prompted him to found his own luggage atelier upon his return to Florence (no guesses what that eventually turned into). This cabin trolley is a nod to the very beginnings of Gucci, but of course, updated with wheels and a telescopic handle. When not in use, it makes for quite an ornamental interior piece much like a classic travel trunk.
Nothing comes close to being as classic and unbelievably versatile as a pair of leather lace-ups. You’d easily be able to dress them up or down and they go with just about anything. Tod’s may be known for its pebble-soled Gomminos but the comfort of its footwear translates even to something as sturdy as a pair of leather lace-ups. The lugged rubber sole gives it a more contemporary flair and traipses the line between formal and casual seamlessly.
The TUDOR Black Bay is an icon. And like most icons, it requires little tweaking. This latest iteration keeps all the design aesthetics with a monochromatic intent that successfully highlights every detail to perfection. The black sunburst dial is undoubtedly subtle but perfect for a timepiece you would want to put on every day, for any occasion.
RIMOWA’s Personal crossbody bag receives a new seasonal colour in a stunning shade of emerald green, and it’s quite honestly one of the more eye-catching shades in its aluminium series yet. The shell is wrapped around leather straps in a darker shade of green that matches the leather interior, and the palladium hardware contrasts beautifully against the rich hue. It could be an intimidating colour to wear but match this with neutrals for a surefire way of pulling it off.
With an Art Deco-inspired bottle design, you would think that Penhaligon’s The Dandy is somewhat of a traditional, masculine fragrance—heavy, woody and mildly overbearing to most. Yet, the fragrance surprises by being woody without that heavy lingering of intensity. The hints of warm, spicy notes cut through slightly after a while for a more balanced take on a liquor-forward scent. The Dandy is definitely more of an evening scent but its lightweight quality could just as easily be used in the day too.
Never underestimate the power of a scarf, especially one with hand-rolled trims and in colours that will never go out of style. Loro Piana updates the paisley print with bold, stark lines for a more elevated look. It’s a cashmere-silk blend that’s incredibly lightweight yet will definitely provide some warmth should you need it; or wear it loosely around the neck (in as many permutations as you could think of) to simply add a touch of irreverent elegance to an outfit.
The beauty of a Loewe candle is that the moment the wax completely burns off, the ceramic vessel can be used in a myriad of ways, all while looking like a piece of art. The latest Wasabi scent is one of the line’s more intense offerings with its green and spicy notes reminiscent of that first whiff of a spoonful of wasabi. Fair warning: this may make you crave for some sushi.
Yes, you don’t necessarily need a card case any more since everything is pretty much be done with your mobile. But neither do you need a watch nowadays too. It’s all about the aesthetics and this piece by Saint Laurent is a slim iteration with four card slots (just right). It also comes with a detachable strap you’d able to secure around a belt loop or wear around the neck as an accessory. The design is clever—the card slots are enveloped within a leather housing for added security.
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Asri Jasman
Photography Assistants: Aliy Alam and Syed Abdullah
New York Fashion Week goes by fast with a number of emerging as well as established brands packing up the schedule this time around. Quintessential American brand Coach—a brand experiencing a resurgence on social media thanks to its latest slate of leather bags—is readying its co-ed Spring 2025 runway show, hoping to capitalise on the moment.
Creative director Stuart Vevers has been at the helm of the brand for more than 10 years now and consistently taps on the spirit of New York City, combining it with the fervour and artistry of its famed inhabitants as well as offering newness for a wide range of audience. It does seem like (and rightly so) that the Spring 2025 collection will be in the same vein as previous collections and perhaps with a slight skater vibe as seen in teasers. What's to definitely look out for though are the leather bags that could potentially spark another uptick in demand in the upcoming season.
For confirmation of what the Coach Spring 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Tuesday live from New York Fashion Week.
What: Coach Spring 2025 runway show
Where: New York City
When: Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 4am Singapore time
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's hard to find truly wearable merchandise these days. Most of them come off as tacky or cringeworthy, with oversized brand logos splashed across the entire piece... I can't describe any further but if that's relatable, lemme introduce a collection from Desa Potato Head that's actually wearable and stylish. And believe it or not, it's from a hotel (I'm still mildly traumatised by those ClubMed shirts that I wore as a kid so my parents could keep track of me, IYKYK.)
Named one of the World's 50 Best Hotels of 2023, Desa Potato Head is more than just a hotel—it's a creative hub where music, art, food, and wellness converge. Set on the shores of Bali's Petitenget Beach, the 225-room hotel has built a global reputation as a lifestyle and hospitality leader that's now branching into sustainable merchandise.
At the helm of this new venture is Lisa Yamai, the former president and creative director of Snow Peak, who will be bringing her expertise in product development, creative direction and branding to Potato Head. As chief product officer, Yamai is working to bring the hotel's vision to life through its product line.
Potato Head invites customers to bring a piece of the Desa experience with them wherever they go, embodying the brand's distinctive way of life. The collection's prints and graphic designs capture their ethos, "Good Times, Do Good", blending elements of music, art, design, and wellness to reflect the hotel's vibrant and multifaceted identity.
The line includes printed shirts, shorts, beachwear, and rainy season gear, all made from recyclable, bio-based, and organic materials. This eco-conscious approach highlights Potato Head's commitment to making a positive impact, without sacrificing style or quality.
Priced from USD52, the collection will be available at Desa Potato Head and online.
When TOMORROW X TOGETHER made their way to Paris for the closing of the Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2024 show season in January this year, they were given the complete Dior experience. The quintet did the usual touristy things—visiting the Louvre and strolling around the Seine—but also had the opportunity to visit La Galerie Dior, the exhibition space located within the House's iconic 30 Avenue Montaigne address.
Throughout their adventures around Paris, TOMORROW X TOGETHER were dressed completely in Dior Men, ranging from artistic director Kim Jones' more casual streetwear-leaning proposals to impeccable tailoring that stayed true to the haute couture spirit of the House. The latter was on elegant display as the group entered (to a cacophony of screams and camera clicks, no less) the show space of the Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show at Paris' École Militaire in the city's seventh arrondissement.
TOMORROW X TOGETHER's outfits were a calculated move, both by the group as well as the House. Tapping on his own personal experiences and roots—as he often does time and time again at Dior Men—Jones' inspiration for the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection revolved around the perceived reality of a ballet dancer's life versus the actual reality of it. The ballet dancer in question is Soviet-born Rudolf Nureyev, one of the most renowned male ballet dancers in the world and just so happens to be a friend of Jones' uncle, photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones.
Before delving deeper into the inspiration behind the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection, it's important to note that the very beginnings of the collection was an exploration of Monsieur Dior's own relationship with ballet. English ballerina Margot Fonteyn is said to have first discovered the house of Dior in 1948 while on a trip to Paris and became a fan of its creations. A friendship with Monsieur Dior naturally developed and Fonteyn often chose to wear Dior on numerous occasions.
This is where an almost unbelievable happenstance begins. Fonteyn's most famous dance partner is none other than Nureyev—effectively linking Monsieur Dior and Jones in the most amazing way.
"When Colin became a photographer, he maintained strong links to the ballet world and, in 1966, Time Life asked him to document a day in the life of Nureyev, regarded by some as the greatest male ballet dancer of his generation. Bonded through their shared history and mutual sense of fun and mischief, the pair went on to forge a great friendship," explains Jones.
The resulting Dior Men Winter 2024 is one of contrasts: the difference between ready-to-wear and couture, between onstage and backstage, and between the life of Nureyev theatrically and in reality. "Here, it is a meeting of the dancer's style with that of the Dior archive," expresses Jones.
There's no doubt that Jones is already more than familiar with crafting from points of contrasts. His oeuvre at Dior Men has always been merging elegant signatures from the archives with contemporary stylings. The Winter 2024 collection takes references from Saint Laurent's time at Dior, translating the late designer's tailored volumes, vents, pleats and necklines. The iconic Bar jacket created by Monsieur Dior is contextualised once again, this time, combined with Jones' very own Oblique tailoring.
While the runway collection is imbued with more extravagant flounces as well as the debut of Dior Men's haute couture—as nods to Nureyev's theatrical career—the dramatic flair as seen on TOMORROW X TOGETHER are more nuanced. '60s- and '70s-inspired tailoring are cut with a rigid straightforwardness, especially in the single-breasted variations, that are then paired with gently flared trousers. Conversely, the collection's more commercial pieces lend a more streetwear air. Take this as the contemporary equivalent of a dancer's off-duty look with slouchy cardigans and hoodies worn over essential white T-shirts and paired with the roomiest of trousers.
It may be a stretch to compare the duality of Nureyev's life with that of TOMORROW X TOGETHER's, given that the former didn't have to contend with the accessibility of social media and in turn, the almost instant, global fame achieved by TOMORROW X TOGETHER. Yet, what remains a similarity is in the versatility and adaptability of both to weave in and out of their lives onstage and off that echo that contrast of two opposing worlds within the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Animation: Joan Tai
