Four years into this unprecedented partnership between Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, and there are seemingly no signs of stopping the duo from creating directional collections season after season. The Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will be their eighth menswear collection together, which has seen a combination of Mrs Prada's prints and studied eccentricities with Simons' penchant for outerwear and oversized aesthetics.
But more than mere fusion of styles, the collections thus far have also been a deep dive into the Prada archives. We've seen prints being revived and remixed, and odes to shows of the past adapted into more contemporary contexts. And there's little reason to doubt that we'll be seeing more of those for this upcoming collection.
For confirmation of what the Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Sunday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Milan Fashion Week Men's.
What: Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show
Where: Milan, Italy
When: Sunday, 16 June 2024 at 8pm Singapore time
As a young stylist, I had always considered flying off to the fashion capitals for fashion weeks to be one of the pinnacles of my career. I had exalted it as a rite of passage—if I were to attend either London, Milan or Paris Fashion Week, it would mean that I’d made it.
I wasn’t naive to think that being invited to fashion shows would be all glamour. Fashion editorial life is (unfortunately) unlike what’s portrayed in the oft-referenced The Devil Wears Prada or even Robert Altman’s Ready to Wear. I was already reporting on the runway collections remotely, basing my reviews off of what I could see from livestreams as well as information from press releases. But I knew that being on the ground meant that my evenings would be spent doing the same with the added pressure of doing so after spending an entire day commuting from one show to the other.
The biggest draw for me was to be able to witness the show firsthand and actually see and feel the collections up close, months before everyone else does. It adds to the reporting and critique of a show. Watching them through a screen has its limits. Sure, one technically gets a much better view of each look as it walks down the runway thanks to steady camerawork, but a fashion show is much more than each individual look. The atmosphere—the music, audience and the scale of a set—completes the narrative that a designer is trying to communicate. And this, as much as technology has changed so much over the years, is a sensorial experience that falls short digitally.
To say that I was excited for my first official fashion week experience would be an understatement. At the same time, I was anxious. I’ve navigated Milan and Paris on my own before, but I’ve never had to rush for back-to-back appointments and shows during one of the cities’ busiest period of the year. Timing is everything and it’s not because I was afraid of getting to a show late (it’s fashion, hardly anything starts on the dot)—I was afraid of missing out a celebrity.
We’re all aware by now that celebrity culture is at an all-time high. Almost no big-named brand event is complete without the appearance of a number of celebrities, some of whom are official brand ambassadors. Brands—be it jewellery, watch or fashion—have been busy racking up top-tier Western, Korean and Thai faces in the past couple of years as brand ambassadors, all to give embodiment to their brand values while simultaneously attract the following that each celebrity commands.
It was a cold January in Milan. The Autumn/Winter 2024 Milan Fashion Week Men’s was the beginning of my two-week-long, non-stop fashion immersion. The Gucci menswear show was my first stop. It was creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear collection for the House and I was in anticipation. I arrived half-an-hour early to the venue to find that I was not early enough. Not only was there already a sizeable crowd formed across the road behind a row of metal barriers, editors of publications based in Thailand, Hong Kong, Korea and my Singaporean counterparts were all flanking an imagined walkway right before the entrance to the main show area.
I managed to squeeze myself in, joining the rather civil queue of Asian press as we all waited for celebrity arrivals. Brands would typically provide a list of confirmed front-row attendees so we could single out those we’d want to approach for doorstop interviews or at the very least, film their arrival for social media. I went in completely blind for Gucci so I was rather awestruck by the sight of Idris Elba, Mark Ronson, Elliot Page and Jay Park. And when people I personally admire and follow such as male model Clément Chabernaud and musician Tamino walked in, the inner fanboy was very much in overdrive. The job comes first, however, and my phone kept trailing each of them from the moment they enter the space.
Yes, I am a glorified paparazzo.
No one stops to give soundbites as they enter a venue. It’s within the show set that the opportunities arise if you’re able to battle your way through the hordes of other press aiming for the very same. The Gucci show was my warmup. I didn’t get any save for a very muffled and quick hello by Elba, which wasn’t usable.
I learnt a thing or two from a very kind fellow celebrity-chaser. He introduced himself as we shared a mutual connection. He told me he is based in Paris but covers celebrity sightings for a publication in Singapore during fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. Having done it for at least six seasons now, the man has become a force to be reckoned with. He knew where to stand and wait for the perfect, clear view and seemingly had zero qualms about intruding the personal space of a celebrity. As an introvert, I was the exact opposite at the start but observed and went on to adopt a similar level of brazenness.
It was the only way that I was able to secure coveted soundbites from Korean actor and brand ambassador Lee Min-ho, Marvel’s Winston Duke, and latest brand ambassador Greg Hsu at Fendi. Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show was full of A-list celebrities—possibly one of the best curations out of the shows in Milan—and I was able to create content featuring Lee Jae-wook, Troye Sivan, Manu Ríos, Luther Ford, and Win Metawin. Lee was even kind enough to rerecord his once I discovered that the audio was off in the original and suffered a fleeting panic attack from it. At Loewe, I even managed to approach Saltburn’s Archie Madekwe for an additional soundbite to tease his then-unreleased February 2024 cover of Esquire Singapore.
“Did you get all the content you need?” a brand communications personnel asked as I was exiting a venue. It was a question I’d hear time and again throughout the two weeks. They were all trying to ensure I had the necessary recordings for Instagram reels that would reach as many people as possible. And if not, they’d assist in securing a celebrity’s time if possible.
I’m not going to lie. There were moments in the evening after a day’s series of shows where I felt semblances of an existential crisis. I would rather speak to creative directors such as Miuccia Prada, Jonathan Anderson, Kim Jones and the like to find out more about their thought processes behind the collections. I had questions after seeing every show but it wasn’t humanly possible to split my time. In the battle for social media views and engagement, creative directors, very unfortunately, don’t garner the same level of attention than even a wink by Korean actor Jung Hae-in.
“In the past, the editors’ biggest concern was getting captured by street style photographers,” a counterpart proffered as we were waiting for celebrities to slowly stream in at a show. The “past” was only about five years ago. And while I don’t necessarily agree with the sentiment (I’ve worked under editors who consciously dress to impress during fashion week while delivering elaborate collection reviews post-shows), I understand the manic evolution of fashion media. It’s no longer enough to deliver content at dizzying speed; content has to be relevant and with a guise of exclusivity.
Will this bubble ever burst? I don’t have the answer to that. But as along as there is a desire for content featuring celebrities that bring in social media engagements and estimated media values in the millions (at the very least), the fashion industry will be sticking to this formula.
The Spring/Summer 2025 Milan and Paris Fashion Week Men’s shows are coming up in a couple of months. And I’m ready, with my iPhone, my small Bluetooth enabled microphone and Esquire Singapore placard going: “Hi! I’m Asri, style director of Esquire Singapore. May I get you to say hello to our readers?”
That concludes fashion month, I suppose. Buyers, stylists, models, and celebrities have been traveling between fashion capitals over the past few weeks to learn how the world's best-dressed men will be dressing for next summer.
So, what's the verdict? Are we all going to be dressed like highlighter pens, or will neutral shades reign supreme once again? Will the silhouettes be baggy or Meet Me in the Bathroom-level skinny? Will our wardrobes be even more gorpcore-y or Y2K or... neither? Without further ado, here's our trend breakdown.
Showing at Fendi’s leather goods factory, Silvia Venturini Fendi presented a collection that played tribute to the callous-thumbed artisans that fill her team. Suits came with stitches for fitting alterations and shirts were printed with toolkits, but it was in the accessories where you could see a direct connection to workers’ uniforms. Models walked with F-monogrammed coffee cups (some in holders, some in hand), documents, measuring tape and name tags as if they were just clocking in for another day.
This trend for accessorising everyday items and elevating the supposedly mundane continued into Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton also had a fellow caffeine addict walk their runway, this time with a straw poking out of the coffee cup lid, as well a model who sported a leather version of the LV shopping bag.
It’s natural for summer collections to be a bit on the brighter side, but no one was expecting the sheer amount of clothes that were imbued with a satsuma-esque shade of orange. While the colour can be intimidating for even the most extroverted dresser, designers made it look as effortless as an Easy Peeler: Dries Van Noten paired pumpkin shorts with a tucked-in double-breasted blazer, while Etro’s more brazen take—a tinsel tank and hoody combo—is for the risk takers. For a contemporary take on suiting, Zegna’s pastel pieces shouldn’t be ignored, and should prove to be a go-to for wedding attire next year, but for casual, everyday-wear, Bianca Saunders’ graphic tees are a must.
Recently, the baseball cap has had a comeback, and it appears that the sporting fervor will continue into next summer as well. Fendi, Martine Rose and Saul Nash all had their own takes, varying from Italian leather to acid-wash denim. But there was more outré headwear, too. Kim Jones had his models wear colourful beanies (at an askew angle) while at Kenzo, Nigo showed wide-brim sun hats and printed berets.
The rules of smart-casual dressing have always included a time-tested formula: pair a nice shirt with some more relaxed bottoms and... there you have it. Foolproof, which is why it featured heavily across the spring/summer ’24 shows. But for this season, you should expect shirt designs that are brasher and a lot more eye-catching. Dior, for example, bejewelled a work shirt with a load of blue crystals, while Ami and Dries Van Noten both had heavily sequinned button-downs within their collections. Prada even stuck on 3D florals and some fringing onto theirs. The message is clear: the bolder the better.
This season also saw brands embrace a concept that has been embraced in womenswear for decades: the going out top. Fendi had a halterneck shirt where the arms drape behind, and Loewe presented a metallic blouse that sparkled like a disco ball. And for more retro takes, Saint Laurent had sleeveless pussybows and sheer blouses aplenty.
It’s lucky that the Y2K low-rise trend has barely entered the menswear-sphere, despite having dominated womenswear for seasons now. In fact, brands are rebelling against it. Waistlines were well above the belly button at Loewe and Prada in both trousers and shorts form respectively, while the use of cummerbunds at D&G and Wales Bonner gave the visual illusion of longer legs and shorter torsos.
Hemlines have also started retreating north, despite seasons of the long and slouchy silhouette. All of the longer-length bottoms at Dior were cropped just above the ankle, and at Hermès the hems were turned up to give full view of the models' fisherman sandals. Waistbands and hemlines are moving on up.
Perennial plants have been blooming in menswear for the last few years, and seeing them blooming in this season’s collections isn’t all that unusual. However, they were blown up to larger and slightly darker sizes as opposed to the more twee prints we had previously seen. As mentioned earlier, Prada had 3D lilies stitched onto shirts, but also positioned them alongside prints of slightly gloomier (potentially underwatered) styles. Emporio Armani centred their black-heavy collection around a ginkgo leaf, where it featured as cut-outs on peak lapel blazers and woven onto lattice-like tops. Valentino had singular roses, an enlarged poppy motif and peonies as part of its sartorial garden, and Kenzo had rose heads printed and stitched onto its denim pieces.
While pairing a linen suit with sandals isn’t exactly a revolutionary move, the catwalks this year were particularly... toe-heavy. Expect wedding wardrobes to follow suit, for better or worse. Dries Van Noten paired a waist-hugging black suit with leather flip flops, and the toe-dividing footwear was also seen at Wales Bonner, where it was styled with a structured linen two-piece. If you have an aversion to seeing your tootsies outside of beach locations, follow Hermès’ lead by sticking to a fisherman sandal. Suited and booted? No, it’s about being suited and sandaled.
The sheer volume of suits and tailoring on the spring/summer '24 runways proved that, despite the pandemic's best efforts to the contrary, they are still in demand. Still, it was clear that there was one cut that reigned supreme for the season: the double breasted suit. They opened the show at Givenchy, worn with hands in pockets at Loewe, paired with contrasting trousers at Ami, as part of a three-piece suit at Paul Smith and in a horse-bit check print at Gucci.
